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Three-link semi-circular Rolex bracelet introduced for the 1956 Day-Date; Crownclasp closure.
1970s-80s lacquered colour dials for Rolex Day-Date; red / turquoise / salmon / lavender. Auction range $200k-$1M+.
Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Unveiled yesterday, controversial watch brand H. Moser & Cie. has taken cheeky clichés to the next level with their latest release, a tribute to ABC’s beloved sitcom Happy Days.
SJX Watches
Unveiled during Watches & Wonders 2021, Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Automaton made its debut alongside highly complicated watches from mainstream watchmakers – but it holds its own in mechanical complexity and metiers d’art decoration against the best of them. Initial thoughts Louis Vuitton’s mechanical watches are impressive, and often don’t get enough respect from watch enthusiasts because of the often ostentatious design. But I respect the quality of concept and execution, and like several of the watches (and own one of them). The flagship complication for 2021 is typical Louis Vuitton in terms of design, but creative in its mechanics and polished in its artisanal decoration. The Carpe Diem is essentially a modern day vanitas – a work of art symbolising the transience of material goods and fragility of life. At the same time, it encapsulates many of the favoured themes in modern-day watchmaking – complex movements, artisanal decoration, and over-the-top style. Although the Carpe Diem is massive and extreme, the craftsmanship evident on the dial is delicate and refined. The engraving on the skull is fine, and even more intricate on the snake, which is enamelled in exceptional detail. All of the metiers d’art on the dial is as good as that on watches from mainstream watchmakers. At the same time, the movement is technically competent and properly finished, given its La Fabrique du Temps provenance. But the watch is a lot of watch, in terms of size an...
Time+Tide
Having buttressed their online fashion offering with an impressive collection of fine watches, Mr Porter has become a real force to be reckoned with over the last decade. To celebrate their 10th birthday, they’ve collaborated with IWC on a damn tempting version of their Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41, a piece that delivers superb legibility at … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: A limited edition IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 from Mr Porter meets Puma’s street-tough suede appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We take a look at one of the newest kids on the block today: Timeless HMS 001. Will it stand the test of time, as the name suggests?
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Introduced just earlier this year, the Chronomaster Sport is the first regular-production model equipped with the El Primero 3600, the latest iteration of Zenith’s storied chronograph movement. Having debuted the line with versions in steel, Zenith now unveils the rose gold Chronomaster Sport, adding a touch of luxe to the sports chronograph. Initial thoughts While not the most novel, the new Chronomaster Sport is a sensible addition to the line. Flagship sports chronographs – Daytona, Speedmaster, Big Bang et al – are offered in solid gold, so it makes sense that Zenith would take the same approach with the Chronomaster Sport. I’ve handled the watch in the metal, and it is eminently striking in gold and black. Admittedly, it does have a passing resemblance to the Daytona in the same livery, but I would say that the Chronomaster Sport more than holds its own, especially considering its movement. The dial is recognisably Zenith with its signature tri-colour registers, as well as the date at 4:30. More crucial is the inscription on the bezel that hints at the movement within. The calibre has a 1/10th second resolution for the chronograph, surpassing most chronographs in its price segment. Funnily enough, one of my favourite aspects of the watch is actually the gold flange with the minute track that circles the white dial – the colour pops and works wonderfully against the precious metal case. Priced at US$21,300, the rose gold Chronomaster Sport is substantially m...
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Kicking off the spring-season watch auctions, the upcoming Phillips sale in Geneva takes place over the weekend of May 8 and 9. Led by the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 cloisonné world time “Eurasia”, the 236-lot catalogue has clearly been curated to cater to the taste of contemporary collectors. We round up a few interesting lots from the sale, including a pair of obscure watches by famed independent watchmakers – the Harry Winston Opus 1 by F.P. Journe, and the Roger W. Smith Series 1 “Onely” for Theo Fennell. Perhaps as unusual, but this time from an establishment name, is the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Perpetual Calendar. And then there’s the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 570 with a two-tone dial and Breguet numerals, which is simply gorgeous. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIII takes place on May 8 (for lots 1-130) and May 9 (lots 131-236). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available online. Lots 57 and 89 – Cartier Tortue monopoussoir chronographs Enjoying a resurgent interest in its elegant but original designs, bringing to mind its 1990s heyday at auction, Cartier is now frequently encountered in watch auctions. And the two present examples of the Tortue are each interesting, but even more notable side by side in the same same. They are the same watch – the original from 1930 and the remake some seven decades on. Tortue, French for” turtle”, is a century-old design attributed to Cartier, having made its debut in 1912. It’s ...
Time+Tide
You’ve probably cottoned on now to the video series that we’re running that picks the best of the watches just released at Watches & Wonders 2021 in various categories. The under $10k category dropped yesterday. If you happened to see that opening statement, you’ll be well aware; the Oscars this ain’t. The point of this … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The four dark horse watches of Watches & Wonders, as voted by your favourite watch websites appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Breitling revived the classic 1984 version of the Chronomat just last year, right down to the signature Rouleaux bracelet. Now the brand ups the ante with the introduction of the Super Chronomat, a larger, 44 mm watch that’s available in two guises: the B01 chronograph and more interestingly, a chronograph combined with the “1461” four-year calendar that was once a signature complication for Breitling. Initial thoughts At a time where brands are downsizing their best known designs, the Super Chronomat bucks the trend. Bigger and bolder than its smaller sibling, the Chronomat “is a watch you’ll get noticed in without having to worry about it” says Breitling chief executive Georges Kern in the launch announcement. I’m inclined to agree – the new Super Chronomat definitely makes a statement. With the distinctive Rouleaux bracelet and oversized pushers, the Super Chronomat possesses a temerity in design that is reminiscent of Breitling in the mid 2000s when the brand favoured excessive sizing, but packaged in a modern manner. That said, the new Super Chronomat collection has a cool 1980s vibe as well, particularly with the UTC module that’s an option on the Super Chronomat B01. The black dial Super Chronomat B01 44, with a UTC module in the bracelet Then there’s the Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar, which features a semi-perpetual calendar. Formerly the flagship complication for Breitling, the calendar is known as the 1461 after the number of days in...
Revolution
Cyrille Vigneron, Cartier’s visionary president and CEO, tells us why adaptation and change are especially paramount in today’s luxury world.
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A “microbrand” based in Singapore, Boldr is all about affordable sports watches. The latest addition to its catalogue is the Odyssey Regatta, unusual for being a yachting-countdown watch at a notably accessible price. Initial thoughts Affordable, solid dive watches are commonplace nowadays, often offered by “microbrands” like Boldr. But the Odyssey Regatta sets itself apart from the competition due to its regatta countdown function (admittedly a simple execution powered by a 7750). And it’s an attractive design, especially the faceted case. Though the case is stamped and looks the part, it’s still typified by strong, angular lines. There’s a boldness in the case design that reminds me of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept. The Odyssey Regatta exemplifies Boldr’s focus on rugged “tool” watches. Having handled the prototype, I was impressed by the build quality, given its price. Feeling reassuringly solid on the wrist, the watch has a heft that’s reminiscent of dive watches like the Oris Aquis and the Sinn U1. But the heft might be a bit too much for some. At 45 mm wide and 18.2 mm thick, the Odyssey Regatta is a beast on the wrist. It took me some time to get used to the watch’s towering case. Nevertheless, the weighty Odyssey Regatta represents a good option for someone searching for a large regatta chronograph that won’t break the bank. Priced at US$1,499, it represents strong value. For comparison, the Frederique Constant Regatta Countdown...
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Though best known for its square, aviation-instrument watches, Bell & Ross actually offers a varied lineup of conventional, round watches that nonetheless remain military inspired, such as the BR V2-94. The brand now gives its vintage-inspired chronograph a fully luminescent makeover to create the BR V2-94 Full Lum. Initial thoughts Bell & Ross implemented the fully-luminescent dial on BR 03-92 Full Lum (which even had a luminous strap), so the dial treatment is not novel. However, it’s a first for one of the brand’s round watches. If you are a fan of the “Full Lum” concept but dislike large square watches, then the “lumed-out” BR V2-94 is right up your alley. And while its full-luminous dial is undoubtedly the watch’s biggest selling point, it isn’t a gimmick that appears merely after sundown. The BR V2-94 is eye-catching even in daylight. The luminous dial is a pale, mint green that’s akin to that in the new Breitling Premier Heritage Chronograph in steel. Furthermore, the BR V2-94 is perhaps the best-looking round watch in Bell & Ross’ current catalogue, good enough that I almost pulled the trigger on the BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze a while back. The BR V2-94 is a design that successfully fuses the brand’s military-issue heritage with a contemporary look. My only knock is the lack of luminous paint on the bezel as well as the date, which feel like odd exceptions for a “Full Lum” watch. The non-luminous date leaves a dark spot on the glowing ...
Time+Tide
Update #2:The never-ending story goes on… Since publishing this update we have spoken to Fog City Vintage (@fogcityvintage), who removed the Rolex Submariner listing – with an asking price at that time of $22,500USD – and refunded the seller as soon as it came to light that the provenance of the watch was not as originally described. As … ContinuedThe post PSA: Russell Crowe confirms purported ‘Cinderella Man Rolex Submariner’ up for sale is not his watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Appropriately for the 90th anniversary of famed reversible wristwatch, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has debuted the ultimate Reverso. Boasting 11 complications, including a tourbillon, minute repeater, and instantaneous perpetual calendar, the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is a monumental wristwatch with four faces and a movement made up of 800 parts. Initial thoughts The Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is smaller than the Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque – which was so big as to be almost unwearable for most – but still sizeable enough to be clunky. It measures 51.2 mm by 31 mm, while standing 15.15 mm high, making it larger than the biggish Nonantième that was launched at the same time. Granted, the size is necessary for the ultra-complex, four-faced movement. Majority of the complications within the new grand complication can be found in past JLC watches, making the Calibre 185 Quadriptyque something of a greatest-hits compilation for the brand. Impressive as it is, the Calibre 185 feels dated, in the sense that watches with numerous complications stacked up were a “thing” in the 2000s; the Triptyque was launched in 2007 and truly exotic in its day. Now that such watches are fairly common, with many leading brands having their own grand multi-complications, the concept is less impressive, regardless of the technical achievement. It’s also worth pointing out that the watch is elaborately decorated – mainly with Clous de Paris guilloche ...
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Located in the town of Renaison, a five-hour drive south of Paris, Horlogerie V Remontet is named after its founder, Valentin Remontet. A young watchmaker who who spent three years at TAG Heuer and then Breguet before striking out on his own, Mr Remontet started his brand with conventional, round watches powered by ETA movements. He has since moved on to watches that are inventive and modern in style and construction. Mr Remontet’s latest is the Time Capsule, a avant-garde watch that has an unorthodox regulator-style display along with unconventional hourstriker. Initial thoughts With the fashion of the day in niche independent watchmaking being classical watchmaking with a heavy Breguet numerals or a “sector” dial, Mr Remontet’s watch is decidedly bold – and also impressive. Its aesthetic is highly technical, and matched by genuinely creative mechanics. The movement is clearly an original construction, even if it does use some components from common calibres. The style is certainly not for everyone – I find it a bit too extreme – but the fresh, bold nature of the Time Capsule is impressive. And the €17,000 price, which is about US$21,000, is fair considering the work in both development and manufacture. Preserving a memory Mr Remontet works along, and fabricates much of the watch himself – including the gaskets for the case – with some components produced by a French micro-machining specialist in micro machining. As a result, Mr Remontet says about 90...
Deployant
The sub-seconds or petite seconds display is as traditional as early wrist wear gets. Originally the layout of choice for pocket watches, early adaptations of the wrist watch also adopted the sub-seconds layout. Today, we select three of the most captivating sub-seconds timepieces released in Watches & Wonders 2021 that you should know about.
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Organised by the Automobile Club de Monaco (ACM), the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique is an annual classic-car race that traditionally takes place before the city’s Formula 1 Grand Prix. As the official timekeeper of the event, TAG Heuer is marking this year’s race with the Monaco Green Dial. A facelifted variant of its iconic square chronograph, the new Monaco features a gradient-green dial that’s a first for the Monaco, but an exceptionally common colour this year. Initial thoughts Arguably the iconic Heuer chronograph by virtue of its unmistakeable 1970s style, the Monaco was introduced in 1969 in honour of the Monaco Grand Prix. An unusual combination of a water-resistant, automatic chronograph with a square case, the Monaco remains the brand’s most recognisable timepiece. While the choice of a green dial may feel modish – dials in this shade seem endless this year even though it’s only April – it is nevertheless well executed. The smoked, metallic finish lends the watch a more nuanced look that separates it from most watches with a green dial. It might not be novel, but I’ve seen the new Monaco in the metal and it is one of the more attractive green dials that I’ve seen to date. While the remake of the original Monaco ref. 1133 “Steve McQueen” would be my pick from the Monaco lineup – I appreciate its historically-faithful design – the new Monaco in green is a great option for someone seeking a more contemporary watch that still possesse...
SJX Watches
Since its founding three years ago, Qatar Watch Club (QWC) has collaborated with several watchmakers on special editions that paid tribute to its home country. The first was a Chopard L.U.C GMT with a burgundy dial – the primary colour of Qatar’s national flag – then a Tudor Pelagos featuring the country name in Arabic script, and most recently a Ulysse Nardin Freak X. It latest project is a tie-up with Hermès that resulted in special edition of the Arceau. Limited to 40 pieces, the Hermès Arceau Qatar Watch Club features an ebene, or “ebony”, dial that reflects the shared equestrian history of both the Parisian saddle maker and the Gulf state. Initial thoughts The watch is very much Hermès in nature and execution. Though distinctive, it is discreet. One of Hermès’ most distinctive models, the Arceau was first conceived in 1978, with its asymmetrical case inspired by a stirrup. The italicised Breguet numerals are stylish, giving the watch subtle flair. Equally subtle is the herringbone-textured dial that brings to mind Hermès fabric. The ebene dial colour is noteworthy. Rich in tone when executed right, brown is relatively uncommon in today’s watches, especially when green and blue seem to be the colours du jour. Long a colour associated with horse riding – Hermès saddles and riding boots can often be found in ebene – it is also a popular shade for the brand’s iconic Birkin bags. Coupled with orange accents – the five-minute markers and the...
Quill & Pad
It would be relatively easy, and pretty interesting, for GaryG to tell you the story of his two days one summer with artist Alexa Meade and her team. And he’ll get to that, but there’s more: the flood of sensations and emotions that came from considering why time and space are so important to him and from inhabiting a work of art that melded GaryG's vision of himself with the artist’s interpretation and self-expression. And there was even a watch.
Time+Tide
When Mido makes headlines for an auction result, you know it must be a special watch, and over the weekend a very special watch was sold. What was the watch? Well, it was a piece produced at the request of Ettore Bugatti, the Italian-born French founder of the eponymous automotive manufacturer. This specific watch, dated … ContinuedThe post Vintage Mido owned by Bugatti founder sells for $420,000 at auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Bell & Ross (B&R;) got its start in 1992 with no-nonsense watches – it produced watches for French military and police units like GIGN and RAID – but has since broadened its repertoire by tapping sci-fi and military concepts and applying them in a more creative manner, resulting in watches like last year’s that had a dial resembling a fighter jet’s head-up display. The BR 01 Cyber Skull draws on a theme that’s familiar to B&R;. A recurring element in B&R;’s line up for over a decade – its first skull watch arrived in 2009, well before such watches became a fad – the skull motif was inspired by military emblems, often those of airborne units. But while the theme is similar, the Cyber Skull is in many ways a culmination of the idea, having been improved technically and refined aesthetically. Best described as a sci-fi interpretation of the vanitas, the Cyber Skull has both its case and dial in black ceramic, while being powered by a proprietary movement featuring an automation that opens and closes the skull’s jaws when the movement is wound. Initial thoughts A complete package in terms of construction and technical finesse at its price point, the Cyber Skull is more accomplished than the typical B&R; watch (though it does cost more than the typical B&R;). Almost all components were developed for the watch, from the case to the dial to the movement. The Cyber Skull’s design is original, despite the skull being somewhat fashionable in watches today. Essential...
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Announced at the end of 2020, the Heritage Navigator “Săgeata Orientului” is a limited edition made for Tissot’s distributor in Romania that recalls the glamorous era of early aviation. Based on Tissot’s world-time wristwatch that’s a remake of the vintage original of the 1950s, the Săgeata Orientului was conceived to mark the 100 years since the founding of CFRNA. Compagnie franco-roumaine de navigation aérienne in full, the CFRNA was a French-Romanian transcontinental airline that flew passengers and mail between Paris and Istanbul in the 1920s before merging into Air France. Translating as “arrow of the orient”, Săgeata Orientului was the original route flown by the CFRNA that included several stops on the way, including Bucharest. Despite taking 21 hours, the CFRNA flight was high-speed travel by the standards of the time, with the same trip by rail taking three days. Initial thoughts Although the Săgeata Orientului is essentially a colour variation of the Tissot world time – originally launched in 2013 for the brand’s 160th anniversary – it is smartly executed, and just as importantly, backed up by a rich historical tale evocative of the glamorous early decades of aviation. And being a Tissot, the Săgeata Orientului is naturally affordable. The US$1800-ish price tag makes it strong value, and an eminently compelling buy (which I first came to know of thanks to Monochrome). The only downside of the watch is inherent to the Heritage Navig...
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Conceived as an everyday watch with a modern aesthetic, the Hermès H08 is the latest mechanical watch for men from the Parisian leather goods maker. As is now the norm for Hermès, the H08 is a proper mechanical watch that’s powered by an automatic calibre made by respected movement maker Vaucher, while also having its own custom typography created specifically for the H08 (just as it was for the Slim d’Hermès wristwatch). Slightly sporty in design, the H08 has a cushion-shaped case that’s available in titanium or an unusual graphene composite. And the titanium version is also available with a matching bracelet that is notably well executed. Initial thoughts I played with the various versions of the watch, and I like it. They are well designed, well made, and importantly, well priced. The case is smartly finished with a variety of contrasting textures, while also having a screw-down crown and 100 m water resistance. And it contains a Vaucher movement, which is an automatic assurance of quality in terms of construction, and finishing is sufficient at the very least. And it’s worth pointing out that the titanium version is also available on a bracelet that is done surprisingly well for a watch of this price. From left: Graphene composite, titanium, and DLC-coated titanium That said, the fact that it comes from Hermès as opposed to an established watchmaker will no doubt be a major hindrance for a watch enthusiast. But I can say with certainty that the H08 is a we...
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Just as the new Octa Automatique is slated to join the catalogue, F.P. Journe is marking the 20th anniversary of the model with the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary. The 99-piece limited edition harks back to the original Octa Réserve de Marche of 2001, then the brand’s entry-level watch. Like the 2001 original, the 20th anniversary edition has a grained, yellow gold dial with a silver sub-dial. And more notably, it is powered by the cal. 1300.3 – but with the bridges and main plate in rhodium-plated brass, just as it was on the original. One of the original Octa Reserve prototypes The prototype movement Initial thoughts The Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary is modestly novel, but will appeal strongly given how it revokes the first-generation model. Given the current outsized desirability of F.P. Journe’s early watches with brass movements, this will be a hot watch. Nips and tucks Though seemingly identical to the original model, the new Octa Automatique is subtly different in terms of design, and substantially different in movement construction. The displays have been rearranged and enlarged to suit the predominately larger case sizes offered by F.P. Journe today. While the original was 38 mm, the standard sizes are now 40 mm and 42 mm. As a result, the date display is slightly larger than before, while the hour numerals are also bigger. Because the date has grown in size, the power reserve display now sits marginally lower than where it used to be. A subtle detai...
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First hinted at in a late-2019 interview its chief executive, the debut of the Audemars Piguet-Marvel partnership was delayed by almost a year – and now it has finally happened. Together with American comedian Kevin Hart, Audemars Piguet boss Francois-Henry Bennahmias revealed the very first product of the Marvel tie-up yesterday during a live-streamed event in Los Angeles. Inspired by the superhero who’s also the ruler of the fictional kingdom of Wakanda, the Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon is also notable beyond the comic-book character depicted in hand-engraved white gold sculpture on its dial. It is a more compact version of the historically extra-large Royal Oak Concept wristwatch, making it the most wearable Concept to date. Francois-Henry Bennahmias And just after the reveal of the watch, a live auction took place, with all proceeds going to charity. The auction included several experiences with sportspeople who are Audemars Piguet (AP) ambassadors, like lunch with tennis champion Serena Williams, but the closing lot was the highlight. It was a unique version of the Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon in an 18k white gold case decorated with a hand-engraved Wakandan motif. After spirited bidding by buyers from several countries, the winner clinched the watch for US$5.20m – over 30 times the retail price of the standard model – an all-time record for an AP watch sold at auction. The unique piece that sold for US$5...
Time+Tide
There was a curious response to our Instagram post about one particular model in the new Aquaracer Collection. It’s the Limited Edition of 844 pieces based on a Heuer model, reference 844 from 1978. A couple of days ago, we posted it side by side with the model that inspired it. Now, for me, this … ContinuedThe post The top 5 TAG Heuer watches of 2021, with a focus on the redesigned and more refined Aquaracer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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