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Pilot Watch

The aviation tool-watch genre. Cartier Santos (1904), the WWII B-Uhr, the French Type 20 flyback, the RAF Mark XI, the Breitling Navitimer.

Will Coronavirus, and a recession, shorten that waiting list you’re still on? An economics professor and a former Swatch Group MD weigh in… Time+Tide
Swatch Jun 3, 2020

Will Coronavirus, and a recession, shorten that waiting list you’re still on? An economics professor and a former Swatch Group MD weigh in…

Entire nations forced under lockdown, airlines teetering on the brink of collapse, fistfights erupting over rolls of toilet paper … Coronavirus has rocked the planet and God knows what life will be like when ‘normality’ resumes. It’s unlikely to be normal as we knew it, that’s for sure. In such desperate times, it may seem … ContinuedThe post Will Coronavirus, and a recession, shorten that waiting list you’re still on? An economics professor and a former Swatch Group MD weigh in… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

8 deadly new Sinns from 2020, including dress watches (yes, really), refined pilots and divers Time+Tide
Sinn s from 2020 including May 17, 2020

8 deadly new Sinns from 2020, including dress watches (yes, really), refined pilots and divers

Sinn is a brand that is stealthily emerging from the shadows. The Frankfurt-based manufacturer favours slow incremental changes to their product line, making their watches better every year, but never reinventing the wheel as they go about it. This year, the new collection has looked to improve on a few older references, as well as … ContinuedThe post 8 deadly new Sinns from 2020, including dress watches (yes, really), refined pilots and divers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Bulgari, Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith Ditch Baselworld SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Chanel Chopard Apr 17, 2020

Business News: Bulgari, Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith Ditch Baselworld

In a widely expected move, the watch and jewellery brands owned by LVMH – Bulgari, Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith – have just announced their pullout from Baselworld. Once the world’s largest watch fair, Baselworld suffered a mortal blow when its largest individual exhibitors, Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor, announced their withdrawal a few days ago, opting instead to move to a new fair in Geneva. And surprisingly the fair issued a swift, and clearly miffed, response to the mass exodus. But the die has been cast, with the centre of gravity having shifted decisively to Geneva, making it inevitable that the French luxury conglomerate would follow suit – especially after having made known its wavering commitment to Baselworld – and now it’s official. With the LVMH announcement, Baselworld has lost all the major exhibiting brands in Messe Basel hall 1, the fair’s flagship space. The chiefs of the LVMH watch and jewellery brands at LVMH Watch Week that took place in Dubai in January 2020, a stopgap measure due to the uncertain trade show schedule. Photo – LVMH In a statement fresh off the press, the LVMH Watch Division and Bulgari explain their move with the “clearly weakened representation of the Swiss watch industry and hence inevitably lower participation… [leading us to] withdraw in order to preserve [our] image and relations with clients as well with the media.” What the four brands will do in Geneva has not yet been decided, conti...

Swatch or Patek, what would you wear if you were President? USA vs Australian Presidents and PMs decide… Time+Tide
Swatch Apr 4, 2020

Swatch or Patek, what would you wear if you were President? USA vs Australian Presidents and PMs decide…

It’s a surprisingly vexed question. You get voted into office as a Prime Minister or President, and suddenly the public’s attention turns to your wrist. Do you continue to wear the watches you’ve worked so hard to acquire? Or do you suddenly downgrade your wrist to what you were wearing when you were in short … ContinuedThe post Swatch or Patek, what would you wear if you were President? USA vs Australian Presidents and PMs decide… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Montblanc Introduces the Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph Tobacco Dial SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces Mar 13, 2020

Montblanc Introduces the Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph Tobacco Dial

Montblanc’s recent line of vintage-inspired models, including last year’s perpetual calendar, now includes the Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph, an attractively retro mono-pusher chronograph that’s well-priced – considering the Minerva movement within. First launched in steel with a salmon dial, the chronograph gets a richer colour palette this year with a pink-gold case matched with a tobacco dial for a warm look no doubt inspired by aged watch dials that have faded from black to brown. Despite all the vintage detailing and “tropical” colours, the watch still doesn’t feel overly retro. The case is well suited to the vintage styling, measuring 40 mm wide thanks to the compact MB M13.21 movement. The calibre is nearly 10 mm smaller than the MB M16.29 movement built for pocket watches that Montblanc has relied on more frequently and results in much larger watches. The case is entirely polished, which contrasts against the matte dial executed in several finishes: a dark, matte surface on the periphery, followed by the grained chapter ring with applied pink gold markers, and finally the central portion in a sun ray-brushed finish. In keeping with the vintage look, the dial itself is slightly domed, a subtle detail that is evident in the sloping edges of the recessed counters. The retro style is further enhanced by a domed, “box-type” sapphire crystal. The arrowhead movement But as is always the case with Minerva-powered Montblanc watches, the highlight is ...

What are these Swatch X 007 watches I’m seeing and can I still buy them? Time+Tide
Swatch Feb 26, 2020

What are these Swatch X 007 watches I’m seeing and can I still buy them?

Swatch just dropped their latest James Bond collaboration – the Swatch X 007 Tribute Collection – and the big question on everyone’s lips is … can you still buy these exclusive models? And the answer is: sort of. A quick peruse of Swatch Australia’s ecommerce page shows that some models are still available, while others … ContinuedThe post What are these Swatch X 007 watches I’m seeing and can I still buy them? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Swatch Group Takes Legal Action Against COMCO SJX Watches
Hamilton According Feb 13, 2020

Business News: Swatch Group Takes Legal Action Against COMCO

Just before the new year, Swiss competition regulator COMCO, also known by its German acronym Weko, announced a provisional suspension of ETA’s right to sell movements to third-party brands. Once the dominant supplier of mechanical movements in Switzerland, ETA and its parent Swatch Group have been embroiled in a decades-long dispute with COMCO over the movement maker’s allegedly anticompetitive practices. Now the dispute between Switzerland’s largest watchmaking group and COMCO has taken a fresh turn with the Swatch Group filing a complaint with the Swiss federal court on January 20, demanding a repeal of COMCO’s decision to suspend sales, a move first reported by Swiss newspaper Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ). An example of an ETA movement with upgraded features that ETA only supplies to sister brands; seen here inside a Hamilton According to the competition agency, the suspension of sales is meant to further weaken ETA’s market power as a major movement supplier, while allowing space for other movement suppliers to ramp up production and build their order books. The suspension remains in force until summer 2020, when COMCO will reach a final verdict on ETA’s rights and obligations. COMCO did allow a narrow exception to the ban, allowing ETA to sell its movements to small- and medium-sized watch brands that are existing clients. But the exception came a stipulation: Swatch Group has to treat all clients equally, which means selling movements to one small brand...

Swatch Introduces the James Bond 007 Collection SJX Watches
Swatch Feb 7, 2020

Swatch Introduces the James Bond 007 Collection

Ahead of the upcoming James Bond film No Time to Die, Swatch has unveiled the Swatch X 007 capsule collection. Each of the watches in the line-up are inspired by the elaborate title credits and artwork that have become a signature of the James Bond film franchise. The collection takes inspiration from films across the decades, ranging from classics like Dr No, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Moonraker, and Licence to Kill, to recent instalments like The World is Not Enough and Casino Royale. Swatch is no stranger to the British super spy, having launched several 007 collections over the years, some of which have gone on to collectors’ items. Amongst the most successful editions is the James Bond 40th anniversary set of watches presented in a briefcase of 2002, the 22-piece collection of watches modelled on notable Bond villains of 2008. The 007 Villains collection (left), and the anniversary briefcase. Photo – Sotheby’s From Connery to Craig Each packaged in a box resembling a VHS cassette tape – something consumers below a certain age will probably not recognise – the watches in the Swatch X 007 collection are offered in two sizes, depending on the model. The watches inspired by Licence to Kill and Casino Royale are in the original, 34 mm “Gent” case, while the Moonraker, Dr No, The World is Not Enough, and On Her Majesty’s Secret Service editions are a more modern 41 mm and presented in the “New Gent” case style. Licence to Kill and Cas...

Hands-on with the IWC Mark XVIII (reference IW327009) WatchAdvice
Ming entry point Jan 29, 2020

Hands-on with the IWC Mark XVIII (reference IW327009)

Introduction If there’s one thing that IWC has a handle on, it’s Pilot’s watches. Within the brands iconic Pilot’s collection is the popular Mark XVIII range, which serves as a charming entry point to the family. I recently had the pleasure of spending several weeks with the Mark XVIII (reference IW327009), which is the stainless steel, black dial model, on a leather strap.  Having previously reviewed several other IWC Pilot’s pieces, including the Pilot’s Automatic Spitfire, I was curious to explore the brand’s entry-level offering further. The Dial & Hands Featuring a black dial with white luminescent markers, the Mark XVIII is simple and understated. The large white markers and numerals are easy to read at a glance, and perfectly contrast with the black dial. Even in full sun, it’s easy to read the dial, which under harsher light appears to turn matt. There’ll be no red-eyes come evening thanks to the generous luminescence and large markers. Since it’s release, the Mark XVIII’s date window has been a sticking point for some, primarily for its lack of symmetry, or it’s mere existence. Ultimately this comes down to personal taste, and after several weeks of wearing the Mark XVIII – I took no issue with it. The date window, admittedly a little out of place, blended in nicely with the rest of the dial, thanks to a matching date wheel. It’s also worth noting that this is an undeniable improvement on the it’s predecessor’s (the Mark XVII) date...

Kees Engelbarts Tourbillon Organic Skeleton – Reprise Quill & Pad
Dec 14, 2019

Kees Engelbarts Tourbillon Organic Skeleton – Reprise

Extraordinary engraver Kees Engelbarts loves his skeletonized watches as they do very much showcase his art form. “I wanted to make another kind of skeleton watch,” he says about his creation called Tourbillon Organic Skeleton. “Most skeleton watches are, as you know, very symmetric. My plan was to make a skeleton watch without a drawing or plan before starting, by just taking away material from the base plate and bridges that is not needed.”

The Rado True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier Time+Tide
Rado True Thinline Les Couleurs Sep 28, 2019

The Rado True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier

Paying homage to a man widely regarded as the father of modernism, Le Corbusier (Charles-Édouard Jeanneret), Rado’s stunning range of True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier could definitely be worth a look as your next summer watch. Le Corbusier, the visionary Swiss designer, architect and writer, created the concept of Architectural Polychromy – a palette … ContinuedThe post The Rado True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHSPOTTING: NFL star Odell Beckham gives a masterclass on flexing wearing Richard Mille in his debut match with the Cleveland Browns Time+Tide
Richard Mille Sep 8, 2019

WATCHSPOTTING: NFL star Odell Beckham gives a masterclass on flexing wearing Richard Mille in his debut match with the Cleveland Browns

As a category, highly paid athletes are known for the occasional BIG flex. Bespoke cars, planes and all the rest are de rigueur for these guys. And, of course, the wristwatch, being both highly visible and highly valuable, is a great example of this. Now, wearing those factory diamonds on your downtime is one thing, … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: NFL star Odell Beckham gives a masterclass on flexing wearing Richard Mille in his debut match with the Cleveland Browns appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“It was our last night in Venice, and I happened to walk past the boutique …” – Teesan’s Omega Speedmaster CK2998  Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster CK2998  Travelling Aug 27, 2019

“It was our last night in Venice, and I happened to walk past the boutique …” – Teesan’s Omega Speedmaster CK2998 

Travelling with a watch fan is always a fraught affair. You’re always pulled into random vintage shops or glittering boutiques, in search of the elusive, the rare, or the unique. It’s a lesson that Teesan’s wife learned … It was our last night in Venice, and I happened to walk past the boutique … Teesan … ContinuedThe post “It was our last night in Venice, and I happened to walk past the boutique …” – Teesan’s Omega Speedmaster CK2998  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Voutilainen 28TI – “Titanium Inverse” SJX Watches
Glashütte Original PanoInverse Aug 19, 2019

Up Close: Voutilainen 28TI – “Titanium Inverse”

Voutilainen’s signature watch is the Vingt-8, powered by the cal. 28, which is time-only but impressively constructed and beautifully finished. So earlier this year Voutilainen flipped the movement, inverting the calibre to have the interesting bits on the front, and relegating the base plate to the back. The result is the 28TI – short for “titanium inverse” – a watch that has all the trademark elements of a Voutilainen, gorgeous detailing and refined decoration, but is as over the top as a classical watch can be. Inverted movements are not new, they can occasionally be found in antique pocket watches, and over the last two decades they have gradually become fashionable in modern watchmaking. The pioneer in the current era is the Breguet La Tradition, though strictly speaking it is not an inverted movement since it was constructed from the ground up to look like a 19th century souscription pocket watch. Actually inverted is the Glashütte Original PanoInverse, and more recently, the Moritz Grossmann Backpage. But none of the other brands making such movements do so to the same quality as Voutilainen, making the 28TI unique in its class. The 28TI Telling time indirectly Mechanically the 28TI is largely similar to the standard cal. 28, with some changes in the construction for the flipped display. Additional gearing is required to drive the hands in the opposite direction, while also allowing for hand-setting via the crown. The changes start with a series o...

RECOMMENDED READING: The Silver Spitfire’s epic 27,000-mile trip starts today (and IWC is on board) Time+Tide
IWC Aug 4, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The Silver Spitfire’s epic 27,000-mile trip starts today (and IWC is on board)

Some of my favourite releases from SIHH 2019 were the watches from the IWC Spitfire collection, which offers a host of twists on their classic pilot’s collection, and a few special limited editions - like the Timezoner Spitfire Edition “The Longest Flight”.  At SIHH we also learned more about the story of this watch, or … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The Silver Spitfire’s epic 27,000-mile trip starts today (and IWC is on board) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Richemont and Swatch Results; Massive Inventories at Swatch SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin saw overall sales dip Jul 18, 2019

Business News: Richemont and Swatch Results; Massive Inventories at Swatch

Swiss watchmaking groups Richemont and Swatch Group just announced their first quarter and six-month results for 2019 respectively, with each going in opposite directions. Owner of brands like Cartier, IWC and Panerai, Richemont saw growth across most segments and regions. Overall sales were up 12% at constant exchange rates, with every region growing in the low teens save for the Middle East and Africa. Sales in Asia grew 10%, led by China, where demand is up due to lower taxes locally on luxury goods and more stringent checks on travellers importing items bought overseas. Most notable was the performance of its online channels, namely luxury fashion mall Yoox Net-a-Porter (YNAP), pre-owned watch merchant Watchfinder, and to a lesser extent. That growth is from a low base of comparison: last year’s first quarter for each platform was only two and one month respectively. That being said, online sales are still substantial, rising to 50% to €648m, almost equal to the €698m of sales in the Americas as a whole. The group’s watchmaking brands, which include A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin, saw overall sales dip 2%. This was attributed to a reduction in the number of sales channels as well as reduced orders of new product by retailers. Up in Biel, where the Swatch Group has its headquarters, half-year sales were down 3.7% at constant exchange rates, to 4.07 billion Swiss francs. Net profit followed suit, shrinking 11.3% to 415m francs. For the full year, howe...