Hodinkee
Hands-On: Zenith's Resurrected Caliber 135-Powered 'G.F.J.'
Vintage-style caliber crossed with modern aesthetics in celebration of Zenith's 160th Anniversary.
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Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).
TAG Heuer (1999), Zenith (1999), Hublot (2008), Bulgari (2011), plus Louis Vuitton in-house and Tiffany & Co. Bernard Arnault\'s Paris-based group.
Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Zenith thread.
Zenith pulls the stopwatch function from its most recognisable sports case and the result is more interesting than you'd expect
Hodinkee
Vintage-style caliber crossed with modern aesthetics in celebration of Zenith's 160th Anniversary.
Teddy Baldassarre
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
SJX Watches
In celebration of birthday, Zenith presents a trio of chronographs entirely in blue ceramic, the 160th Anniversary Editions of the Chronometer Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph, and Pilot Big Date Flyback. Each retains the specifications of its steel equivalent, with the only distinction being the case and bracelet material. Initial thoughts Best known for the El Primero high-beat automatic chronograph, Zenith arguably does best at chronographs, and that’s exactly what it’s doing for its anniversary. The reimagining of Zenith’s best-known models in blue ceramic is on trend – maybe a bit too trendy – with brands like Audemars Piguet having already done it. That said, the anniversary trilogy does offer a striking new alternative to anyone seeking an El Primero with a whole new aesthetic. The use of ceramic for both the case and bracelet, however, means each of the trilogy models is notably pricier than the equivalent model in steel. That’s acceptable for an anniversary limited edition, but not quite the same value proposition as the steel variants. Blue ceramic The Chronomaster Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph, and Pilot Big Date Flyback each retain the same dimensions and movement as their respective steel models, except that the case and bracelet are now in blue ceramic modelled on Zenith’s signature hue. According to Zenith, blue ceramic was an undertaking that involved months of research and development. Blue ceramic is significantly more challenging to finish...
Deployant
Our hands on session with Zenith. Here are our picks and highlights from what we saw, touched. Here are our impressions of the novelties.
Revolution
Monochrome
As the winner of the race to produce the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement in 1969, Zenith is synonymous with chronographs. Beating at a high frequency, the El Primero automatic chronograph movement set a new benchmark for precision and reliability. In light of the brand’s 160th anniversary, Zenith unveils three high-frequency chronographs – Chronomaster […]
Fratello
If you are on the hunt for a humble, under-the-radar, slow-release charmer of a watch, feel free to skip this article. Zenith gets all up in our faces at this year’s Watches and Wonders with a 160th-anniversary trio of blue ceramic chronographs. Subtle blue? Nope, not quite. Say what you will, but at least this […] Visit Catching The Blues With A New Trio Of Zenith Blue Ceramic Chronographs to read the full article.
Revolution
Worn & Wound
Last year, I had the privilege of sitting down with Benoit de Clerck to talk about all things Zenith. At the time, Benoit was just a few short months into his tenure as CEO of Zenith, and Watches & Wonders was only barely in the rearview, but de Clerck made it very clear that he was already looking ahead, not just generally, but towards something very specific, and very exciting. “I’m working hard on something new next year, which - obviously - I like, because it’s very unique, and we’re producing very small quantities and all that. And, I can’t tell you much more, but next year we’re celebrating our 160th year and we will come up with something that the collectors will be very, very, very happy with.” Well, now, nearly a year later, we know what that “something new” is, and de Clerck was absolutely right - because it is something to be very, very happy with. I’m talking, of course, about the new Zenith G.F.J. G.F.J., in this case, stands for Georges Favre-Jacot, the name of the man who founded Zenith some 160 years ago, but it might as well stand for ‘Great F***ing Job’ because Zenith has knocked it out of the park with this one. At the heart of the G.F.J. is a revived version of the calibre 135, a historically significant and long-dormant movement, designed by Ephrem Jobin in the years after World War II and produced from 1949 to 1962. The Calibre 135 was widely used by Zenith at that time, but especially prized is the 135-O variant created...
Time+Tide
The prolific observatory chronometer calibre is back.The post Has the Zenith G.F.J. actually achieved perfection? Maybe, and the Calibre 135 certainly helps. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The year 2025 marks 160 years since the founding of Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland, back in 1865. As watchmaking brands are wont to do, Zenith is commemorating this milestone by putting forward a watch for the occasion that’s representative of its storied history, as well as its own contemporary identity. Now, as Watches & Wonders 2025 kicks off, we are clear on how the brand aims to celebrate the occasion, and its chosen vehicle is a new collection inspired by Zenith’s own founder, complete with an update on its storied Caliber 135, which breathes fresh life into an old favorite movement. These are the conditions in which the rising star of the G.F.J. collection joins Zenith’s constellation. At the tail end of the 19th century, the mounting competition within the watch industry brought about a new standard of gauging the accuracy of movements, and watchmakers began employing observatory trials to signal to customers that their products were as accurate as possible. This was also at a time in which highly accurate timepieces were necessary for successful marine navigation. Before the COSC certification standards that are so rigidly defined today were coded, individual movements would be sent to observatories, where they would undergo testing procedures, as well as competitions for chronometry prices. Zenith details that it had been routinely entering chronometry trials as early as 1897. And, because a bit of healthy bragging is appropriate with brag-worthy achieveme...
Fratello
For a long time, Zenith kept us guessing about what its celebratory 160th-anniversary release would be. But if you know something about Zenith, the social media posts hinted at something special related to the brand’s rich history in observatory chronometer competitions. With the release of the Zenith G.F.J., the watchmaker from Le Locle brings its […] Visit Zenith Celebrates Its 160th Anniversary In Style With The New G.F.J. to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Few watch brands can resist the siren song of a major anniversary as an excuse to release a cool limited edition (or two, or…more). Zenith, of course, is no exception, and this year marks a big milestone: 160 years. We expect that there will be many celebratory watches beyond what’s unveiled this week in Geneva, but out of the gate Zenith is focusing attention on a segment of the catalog that has loomed large for much of their recent history, the chronograph. “El Primero” and “Zenith” are terms that are nearly interchangeable to some, so it makes sense that they’d spend some time leaning into the complication most associated with the brand. The new Blue Ceramic Chronograph Trilogy is made up of, you guessed it, blue ceramic versions of Zenith’s most important modern chronographs: the Chronomaster Sport, the Defy Skyline Chronograph, and the Pilot Chronograph. Together, these three watches cover much of the ground Zenith has worked in over the past few years, a period of real expansion for the brand where we’ve seen them decisively into watches that feel very contemporary and of the current moment. Zenith has also quietly been one of the great innovators in the subset of ceramic watchmaking, with many colorful and sometimes unexpected ceramic references dotting their entire collection. Blue ceramic was chosen for this release because of the color’s close association with the brand and its history. According to Zenith, it all stems from Zenith founder...
Hodinkee
A new collection, a newly reworked vintage Caliber 135, and Zenith's 160-year pursuit of accuracy.
Monochrome
On the occasion of its 160th anniversary, Zenith celebrates its legacy in the field of precision watchmaking, bringing back to life the venerable calibre 135, the most awarded movement from the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions. In 2022, Zenith released an exclusive limited edition of 10 watches, powered by vintage 135-O movements, restored and […]
Time+Tide
A lot of people will be blue if they don't secure one of the 160 pieces, mark our words.The post Zenith could win Watches & Wonders with its blue ceramic Chronomaster Sport appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
When Zenith first introduced this black-dial version of the Chronomaster Original in September 2023, it felt like a déjà vu. At first glance, it immediately felt like a dial variant that the brand would have released in the early ’70s. We know that didn’t happen, but here we are, 50+ years later, with a dial […] Visit How The Black-Dial Zenith Chronomaster Original Changed My Collecting Perspective to read the full article.
Fratello
It is no secret to regular readers that I like the Zenith Defy line of watches. These are some of the very few integrated-bracelet sports watches with a clear identity. They do not take the design-first approach of, say, a Royal Oak, nor do they strive for elegance like a Laureato. Zenith, instead, pushes into […] Visit In Between Sizes? Spending Time With The Zenith Defy Skyline 36 to read the full article.
Fratello
What would happen if you started working out in 1969? How would you look today? Well, if you were a watch, you would probably look like the 42mm Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton. When the athletic Defy A3642 came to life 56 years ago, the watch, with its muscular octagonal case and chiseled tetradecagonal (14-sided) […] Visit Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
For most of my watch-buying life, fun dive watches have mostly been big dive watches. Colorful, loud, capable waterproof options have tended to correspond with case dimensions of equal impact and presence, while the sub-40mm dive watch space has belonged to relatively sedate interpretations of the classic dive watch formula - and even then, 39mm has been the sweet spot for ‘small’ divers. But over the last few release cycles (if those even exist anymore), we’ve started to see signs of a shift, and I can think of few better examples of this change than the Zenith Defy Revival Diver A3648, released last year as part of Zenith’s grand re-entry into the dive space. Last summer, I got to spend a few weeks with the Zenith Defy Revival Diver’s bigger, brasher brother, the Defy Extreme Diver, and I came away wildly impressed. The Defy Extreme Diver was a watch that punched way above its weight class (or at least its price point) while feeling like a genuinely novel take on a modern dive watch from a brand with shockingly little history in the space. So when I had the chance to spend some time with that watch’s vintage-inspired counterpart, I jumped. This extended visit with the Revival Diver wasn’t my first hands-on experience with the watch - I got to spend a few minutes with it when I went to pick up the Extreme Diver back in June - but on that day, I didn’t find myself particularly taken with the Revival. While I’ve long admired Zenith’s dual identity...
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we’ll take a look at five great vintage Zenith watches. As I explained in last week’s list, that one and today’s are a little homage to Zenith. The brand from Le Locle is one of my favorite watchmakers. By releasing a seemingly never-ending stream of exciting and often surprising […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Zenith Models to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The latest iteration of Dior’s asymmetrical wristwatch builds on last year’s all-black release. The new Chiffre Rouge Chronograph retains the signature asymmetrical DLC-coated steel case, but adds a striking red-gradient dial adorned with Dior’s trademark geometric pattern. But this is not merely a “fashion watch”, as inside is the Zenith El Primero 400, another example of the group-level movement strategy at LVMH. Initial thoughts Dior has been producing watches since the 1970s, but struggles to resonate with watch enthusiasts, who often dismiss its offerings as “fashion watches” – a challenge faced by other fashion or leather goods makers. The brand has been making “serious” watches on and off over its history, and last year reintroduced a Chiffre Rouge Chronograph powered by the El Primero. While the stark, edgy design of the watch is not for everyone, it is mechanically credible, albeit steeply priced. At US$17,000, the price is definitely more Dior than Zenith. It’s also substantially pricier than last year’s model with the same movement. The value proposition is difficult to justify. A more advanced movement, like Zenith’s latest generation El Primero 3600, would make this more compelling. Red gradient dial The new Chiffre Rouge mirrors last year’s model, retaining the signature cannage-patterned crown and polished bumpers on the right flank. The chief update is the red gradient dial, which features Dior’s signature geometric motif. Powe...
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week and next, I will be putting the spotlight on Zenith. To be a bit more specific, for this week, I picked my top five modern Zenith watches. Next week, I will put the spotlight on some of the brand’s best vintage models. These are somewhat self-indulgent lists because I […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Zenith Models to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
There’s no sports watch that I have a stronger connection to than the Zenith Defy. I’ve long told anyone who would listen that the Defy is, bar none, my favorite sports watch collection. From its inception, the Defy has been a watch associated with pushing both design and watchmaking boundaries, through the use of uncommon materials, avant-garde designs, and over-the-top specs. For whatever sports watch from a major Swiss brand you can name, I could probably think of a Defy that matches it in terms of what it can do, and eclipses it in terms of the always hard to quantify cool factor. Yes, of course this is subjective. But, I mean, is it really? Now that we’ve established that I love the Defy potentially all out of proportion, we can consider the latest entry in the growing collection, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton. This is a combination of words that were always meant to meet in the form of a Defy – the writing has been on the wall since the intro of the first Defy Skyline, or least since the introduction of the Skyline Chronograph. One of the nice things about the Defy, as a collection, is that it truly offers a different flavor of the core watch for every taste, with dials that are skeletonized, or not, cases that are made from steel, or ceramic, and now chronographs offering some of those same decision points. My feelings on the Defy Skyline collection oscillate quite a bit. Whenever I put one on, I can’t help but compare it in my mind to the Defy...
Revolution
Worn & Wound
The period between LVMH Watch Week and Watches & Wonders is usually pretty quiet on the watch release front, but Zenith teamed up with Revolution to drop a new edition of their ongoing series of “Cover Girl” reissues that is almost certainly the most radical rethinking of the concept yet. We’ve covered both of the previous Zenith x Revolution collaborations that sought to resurface one of the most famous references in Zenith’s vast archive. The first, introduced in 2020, was a fairly straightforward recreation of the vintage reference. The second was a titanium version, and just a little more esoteric. The third, though, is a real departure, crafted from carbon fiber for a dramatically different look and wearing experience. The headline here is the weight. On a hook and loop strap, the Cover Girl Carbon weighs just 55 grams, significantly lighter than even the titanium version released a few years ago. It’s a little more if you opt for the full carbon fiber bracelet, but more on that in a minute. The case is in the classic A384, tonneau shape, which measures 37mm in diameter and 12.5mm tall. According to Zenith and Revolution, the carbon fiber used here is of the high modulus variety, similar to what’s seen in high end bicycles and sports cars. The dial is also made from carbon fiber, which creates a coherent and aggressive look for the entire piece. It’s matte black and features the same “shark tooth” outer register that is common to the other Cover ...
Hodinkee
At 55 grams, this is a lightweight performance model with a powerful and iconic engine within.
Monochrome
Back in 2020, watch magazine Revolution introduced its first limited edition Zenith Chronomaster Revival, a watch with a bold dial layout inspired by a 1971 version of the legendary El Primero nicknamed the A3818 “Cover Girl”. This first edition was made in steel and was followed in 2022 by the Chronomaster Revival A3818 “Airweight Cover Girl” in […]
Time+Tide
Contemporary and classical in equal measure, this Chronomaster Revival A3818 'Cover Girl Carbon' is the lightest watch Zenith has ever made.The post Zenith & Revolution complete their trilogy of ‘Cover Girls’ with the lightest Zenith yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
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