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Wiki · Guide
El Primero Zenith

Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).

Wiki · Guide
LVMH Watches

TAG Heuer (1999), Zenith (1999), Hublot (2008), Bulgari (2011), plus Louis Vuitton in-house and Tiffany & Co. Bernard Arnault\'s Paris-based group.

Gallery · Guide
Zenith Gallery Zenith

Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Zenith thread.

Exclusive · Guide
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport: El Primero Without the Chronograph

Zenith pulls the stopwatch function from its most recognisable sports case and the result is more interesting than you'd expect

Video - A Closer Look at the Edgy Zenith Defy Revival A3648, Rekindling that 1969 ‘Everything is Possible’ Spirit Monochrome
Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Rekindling Nov 18, 2024

Video - A Closer Look at the Edgy Zenith Defy Revival A3648, Rekindling that 1969 ‘Everything is Possible’ Spirit

The year 1969 proved to be pivotal for Zenith. The manufacture introduced the El Primero automatic chronograph, which would become one of the most influential movements ever made. Besides that monumental feat, it also launched the formidable Defy collection that year. This sporty series of watches had an unprecedented design, with an octagonal case topped […]

Zenith Beefs Up the Retro Defy Diver SJX Watches
Zenith Beefs Up Nov 12, 2024

Zenith Beefs Up the Retro Defy Diver

Chunky and water resistant to 600 m, the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver is based on the Defy A3648 of 1969. It shares the distinctive styling of the vintage original, but the Extreme Diver is modern in construction and specs. The case is titanium while the bezel is black ceramic. Originally introduced with either a black or blue dial, the Extreme Diver now gets a silver dial while retaining the signature bright orange flange. Initial thoughts Zenith’s catalogue includes several sports watches, including the Chronomaster Sport, but the Defy Extreme Diver is arguably the most distinctive design. With historical roots in the vintage Defy A3648, the Extreme Diver is also original. And the watch also manages to look entirely modern, despite preserving most of the design elements of the vintage original, including the angular case and 14-sided inner bezel. The Extreme Defy is one of Zenith’s pricier time-and-date watches at CHF10,900, but is still a reasonable value proposition considering the in-house movement and overall build quality. Stars Rated to 600 m just like the vintage A3648, the Extreme Diver has a case of brushed titanium measuring 42.5 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm in thickness. Around the trademark 14-sided inner bezel is a unidirectional black ceramic bezel with fluted edges for grip. Large titanium crown guards protect the fluted screw-in crown at three. The dial is finished in silvery-white with sunburst brushing. Like other Defy models, the dial is decorated wit...

Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Silver Dial Fratello
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Silver Nov 10, 2024

Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Silver Dial

In April 2024, Zenith introduced the Defy Extreme Diver, a bold and modern dive watch. The brand is most famous for its chronographs, so a new diver is big news. The initial release brought a pair of black- and blue-dialed watches. Today, an icy silver version joins the lineup as a serial-production model. This year’s […] Visit Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Silver Dial to read the full article.

First Look - A New Silver Dial for the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Incl Nov 6, 2024

First Look - A New Silver Dial for the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver (Incl. Video)

Zenith stole the headlines in 1969 with the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph movement, aptly named ‘El Primero’. With less fanfare, Zenith also launched its heavy-duty Defy watch with an angular octagonal case, groovy orange bakelite bezel, and impressive water-resistance. Nicknamed the ‘vault’, the Defy Plongeur ref. 3648 was a monster of the abyss capable […]

Hands On: The First-Ever Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” 16599SAAEC SJX Watches
Zenith powered Daytona Nov 5, 2024

Hands On: The First-Ever Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” 16599SAAEC

One of the most valuable watches to go on the block this auction season is the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” 16599SAAEC. Part of Phillips’ Reloaded auction taking place on November 8, 2024, the Zenith-powered Daytona is the original “Rainbow”, having been produced in 1994, some 18 years before the serially-produced Daytona “Rainbow” was introduced. Like all automatic Daytona models prior to 2000, this Daytona “Rainbow” is powered by the cal. 4030, which is a Zenith El Primero modified by Rolex. But this Daytona is unique in having a singular model reference of 16599 followed by the suffix “SAAEC”, short for saphir arc-en-ciel, French for “sapphire rainbow”. A rainbow history Though the Daytona “Rainbow” is perhaps the most famous gem-set Rolex model today, it took a while to catch on when it was introduced. It debuted as a regular production model in 2012 with the Daytona ref. 116598RBOW in yellow gold and ref. 116599RBOW in white gold. The Daytona ref. 116599RBOW in white gold At launch the Daytona “Rainbow” was not the object of frenzied desire as it is now, but by 2018 it was sought after. And that year Rolex debuted the Daytona ref. 116595RBOW in Everose gold that boasted the upgrade of baguette-cut rainbow indices. The facelift was also applied to the yellow and white gold versions, both of which now sport baguette-cut rainbow indices as well. As with the first generation model, variants with gem-set dials and bracelets also exist. The Day...

Zenith and Porter-Yoshida Pilot Watches in Green Ceramic SJX Watches
Zenith Oct 30, 2024

Zenith and Porter-Yoshida Pilot Watches in Green Ceramic

Porter, a Japanese cult brand famous for its functional nylon bags, has lent its signature colours to Zenith to create the Pilot Central Automatic Porter and the Pilot Big Date Flyback Chronograph Porter. The new Pilot duo retain the familiar aviation-inspired design, but in green with orange accents, including for the first time a case in khaki green ceramic. Both models are delivered with two straps: a conventional Cordura-effect rubber strap and a green nylon strap made by Porter. Initial thoughts While the Pilot Porter isn’t an iconic classic like Zenith’s El Primero, it is a unique take on the traditional aviator’s watch that is different but still functional, not unlike Porter bags that are popular for their no-frills quality. The green and orange livery is appealing and avoids the usual pilot’s watch look, but remains entirely legible and utilitarian. Priced at US$11,300 for the time-only variant and US$15,500 for the chronograph, the Pilot Porter is priced comparably to the equivalent regular-production Pilot models. Though both are more expensive than Zenith’s offerings in steel, they are priced reasonably enough considering the material and movement, as well as the competition. Khaki green Porter is the most famous label owned by Yoshida & Co., a Japanese maker of luggage and bags. Usually in dark-coloured nylon with contrast-colour lining, Porter bags are multi-pocketed and useful (and also quite pricey for nylon bags). The Pilot Porter models adopt th...

Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow Review Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow Review Oct 28, 2024

Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow Review

There are some watches that kind of stay with you. They may not be in your wheelhouse as far as taste is concerned (or at least what you think your taste is), but something about them just resonates. This is how I feel, and have felt, about the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow, a watch that has been in production for some time, one that I have reviewed in the past, and one that I still do not own but which continues to take up valuable real estate in my brain.  The version of the watch that I got turned onto was the only one available until recently - a blasted-finish, black-coated titanium chronograph in the retro A384 case format that plays on the past but brings a decidedly modern design sensibility to the overall package. The dial is a matte, flat black and the text on it is well thought-out in terms of the vintage effect, down to the printing of the logos and numerals. It’s as if you’re looking at a museum artifact, except that it's packed with one of the best modern automatic chronograph movements in the game, Zenith's own El Primero, and at 37mm it fits perfectly on my 6.25-inch wrist. If you have been paying attention to Zenith over the past half-decade or so, you are sure to notice that the brand has done quite a job in balancing vintage revivals with innovative new releases. It’s the only brand I know that revives a watch and keeps everything true to form down to the clasp on a bracelet. I recall handling another Shadow model – the Defy Shadow ...

Zenith Introduces Defy Skyline Big Date Flyback Sincere Platinum Jubilee SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Defy Skyline Big Oct 25, 2024

Zenith Introduces Defy Skyline Big Date Flyback Sincere Platinum Jubilee

For the Singapore retailer’s 70th anniversary, Zenith debuts the Defy Skyline Big Date Flyback Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition. In a first for the model line, the limited edition combines a big date and flyback chronograph, while the case and integrated bracelet are in sandblasted titanium for a clean, monochromatic aesthetic. Initial thoughts Best known for the landmark El Primero high-frequency chronograph movement, Zenith also jumped on the fad for integrated-bracelet sports watches with the Defy Skyline. The angular case and polygonal bezel bring to mind other designs, but like other Zenith offerings, the Defy Skyline is appealing because it’s well priced and equipped with a solid movement. The Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition is no exception. In fact, it’s one of the best looking iterations of the model with its all-grey look. Even though the colours are muted, this iteration of the Defy Skyline stands out. Priced at 22,200 Singapore dollars (about US$17,000), the Sincere edition is priced competitively for what you get, which includes an El Primero calibre with extra complications. El Primero The Sincere edition has the signature Defy Skyline design of a dodecagonal bezel, angular case with oversized pushers, and an integrated bracelet. The case and bracelet are sandblasted to a smooth matte finish, resulting in a striking, deep grey tone. The titanium case is 42 mm in diameter and 47.4 mm lug-to-lug. Despite the seemingly large case, the Defy Skyline is weara...

Zenith Collaborates With Porter On The Pilot Automatic And Big Date Flyback Porter Limited Editions Fratello
Zenith Collaborates Oct 20, 2024

Zenith Collaborates With Porter On The Pilot Automatic And Big Date Flyback Porter Limited Editions

Zenith often hits the sweet spot when it comes to creating exciting, standout variations of its watches. With the new Zenith Pilot Automatic and Big Date Flyback Porter limited editions, we are treated to two great new versions of the existing Pilot models. Not only do we get a great color variation of the two […] Visit Zenith Collaborates With Porter On The Pilot Automatic And Big Date Flyback Porter Limited Editions to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Revival Diver A3648 WatchAdvice
Zenith  Defy Revival Diver A3648 Oct 10, 2024

Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Revival Diver A3648

Part of Zenith’s Watches & Wonders 2024 releases was a long-overdue Revival of a popular retro model. But does the 70s aesthetic still hold up today? Let’s find out! What We Love: Retro design & old-school cool Tough specs make for good for daily wear Plenty of adjustments for even the smallest wrists What We Don’t: Clasp feels lacking in design Challenging to pull off and style with outfits Smudges easily – a byproduct of all high-polish watches Final Score: 8/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 We at Watch Advice were busy throughout all of 2024’s Watches & Wonders. So many brands, so many releases, and all in one place? April was the season for Watch Heaven. With your eyes darting from brand to brand, it’s easy to get lost in the fog of the amazing new models – however, if you don’t slow down and look around, you might realise that you missed something special. ‘Under-the-radar’ is a somewhat apt description of Zenith’s releases at this year’s biggest watch fair. While there were two new modern defy models worth celebrating, one release didn’t seem to get as much press as everything else did. Designed in the ’60s, the Zenith Defy lineup was a distinctive collection in a sea of retro timepieces. However, they were built for one purpose: survival. Zenith wanted to make the most resilient Swiss watch of its time, and they made sure that no stone was left unturned.  The vintage goodness that is the Zen...

Zenith Dresses Its 41mm Defy Skyline In Pink For The Fight Against Breast Cancer Fratello
Zenith Dresses Oct 8, 2024

Zenith Dresses Its 41mm Defy Skyline In Pink For The Fight Against Breast Cancer

October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month. For the third year in a row, Zenith presents a limited-edition watch to support this noble cause. In 2022, the Swiss brand made a Chronomaster Original with a very pink dial. Last year was the Chronomaster Sport’s turn, and now the Zenith Defy Skyline lends its dial to raise […] Visit Zenith Dresses Its 41mm Defy Skyline In Pink For The Fight Against Breast Cancer to read the full article.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona vs. Zenith Chronomaster Sport: Head-to-Head Quill & Pad
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Head-to-Head Day Oct 7, 2024

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona vs. Zenith Chronomaster Sport: Head-to-Head

Day One for the Zenith Chronomaster Sport was January 21, 2021. And it seemed like everyone had the same reaction: “That is one aggressive Rolex tribute.” Tim Mosso thinks that the Chronomaster Sport is a distinctive product with its own identity and takes a look here at how it stacks up against the ever-popular Rolex Cosmograph Daytona.

Zenith Launches their Third Limited Edition with Susan G. Komen Worn & Wound
Zenith Launches their Third Limited Oct 2, 2024

Zenith Launches their Third Limited Edition with Susan G. Komen

Zenith, for the third year in a row, has joined forces with Susan G. Komen, the world’s leading nonprofit breast cancer organization, on a limited edition watch meant to highlight the work Susan G. Komen is doing and raise money for the organization. Last year saw Zenith release a Chronomaster Sport with a light pink dial, and this year’s follow up brings the same aesthetic to the Defy Skyline.  Zenith’s efforts with Susan G. Komen are part of their larger HORIZ-ON initiative, which is a company-wide commitment to “corporate social responsibility.” These initiatives run the gamut and occur all over the world, touching local communities and broader swaths of the population. The ongoing partnership with Susan G. Komen represents “One of the key pillars of ZENITH’s HORIZ-ON initiative,” according to Zenith CEO Benoit de Clerck. The new Defy Skyline Pink is a limited edition of 100 pieces and uses the new 41mm Skyline case (in steel) as the canvas. The Defy, in my opinion, continues to be one of the most underrated sports watch lines in production at the moment. The collection has a long and fascinating heritage, with some truly innovative and provocative design in its past, and it still represents the most forward thinking arm of the Zenith brand today. The Skyline, in its relatively short history, has already proven itself to be a worthy modern successor to the great Defy references of the past.  For this pink dialed limited edition, we get all the hallmark...

Zenith and Hodinkee Team Up for their Third Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Zenith Sep 25, 2024

Zenith and Hodinkee Team Up for their Third Limited Edition

Earlier this year, Zenith revealed a revived version of a classic part of their past in the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. The triple calendar, with apertures for day and month alongside the 9:00 and 3:00 subdials, is an old fashioned complication with a ton of charm, and works particularly well in a heritage inspired watch like the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. When it was launched several months ago, it was clear to everyone that it would eventually produce additional variants, and here, for the first time, it’s the canvas for a limited edition, Zenith’s third with Hodinkee. The new Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Limited Edition for Hodinkee reframes the concept of the watch and the result is quite handsome and a nice extension of their previous collaborations.  The idea behind this limited edition, according to Hodinkee and Zenith, is to bring together elements of the past, present, and future. This, of course, is something all mechanical watches do in their own way, with their centuries old technology, modern manufacturing techniques, and the hope that any watch will provide multiple generations with reliable service. This LE’s approach is both fanciful and literal.  For example, it’s powered by a movement that can only be described as advanced and modern. The Caliber 3610 is a high frequency movement with a chronograph capable of timing events to the 1/10th of a second. But it’s also a bit anachronistic, with a calendar complication...

Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition Fratello
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Sep 20, 2024

Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition

In January 2023, Zenith released the first Defy Skyline Boutique Edition. The release flew under the radar for most watch fans, but it was a stylish version of Zenith’s popular integrated-bracelet sports watch. Later that year, the brand unveiled a boutique-only version of the Defy Skyline Skeleton as well. Now it’s time for the third […] Visit Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands-On With The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow WatchAdvice
Zenith  Chronomaster Revival Shadow Finally Sep 16, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow

Finally, the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow has a titanium bracelet to match! But can it change my mind on the ladder-style bracelet? Let’s find out! What We Love: Great movement specs and finishing Plenty of micro-adjustment holes for easy wear A sleek, sporty yet geometric design What We Don’t: The clasp isn’t as refined as it could be Ladder bracelet isn’t for everybody Retro styling may not suit all people’s tastes Final Score: 8/10 Value for Money: 7/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 “If You Know, You Know/IYKYK”: A phrase that I keep seeing being used all around social media. It’s a statement I often find used to infer that only a select amount of people know about a certain thing. It’s kind of cool and funny when done for inside jokes, but more often than not I see the term overused to gate-keep to an annoying degree. From withholding movie titles to restaurants – some people need to wake up and realise that buying Adidas Sambas, watching Set It Up or going to that poké place down the road doesn’t make you the main character of anything. Conversely, if used in moderation, it can make a community feel truly special and grateful to be a part of a tight-knit fan base. In that respect, I believe that Le Locle watch brand Zenith is the definition of an IYKYK community. I’ve not met a single Zenith wearer who doesn’t absolutely love Zenith – every single one who, upon mentioning my appreciation for their watch of choice...

Fratello’s Top 5 Classic El Primero-Powered Watches - Featuring Zenith, Ebel, Rolex, And More Fratello
Zenith Ebel Rolex Sep 13, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Classic El Primero-Powered Watches - Featuring Zenith, Ebel, Rolex, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we enter the wonderful world of the El Primero movement. As most of you know, Zenith introduced its famous El Primero trio of watches in 1969. The brand was part of the illustrious race to release the first automatic chronograph, competing with Seiko and the consortium of brands formed […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Classic El Primero-Powered Watches - Featuring Zenith, Ebel, Rolex, And More to read the full article.

Introducing - The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition Monochrome
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Sep 11, 2024

Introducing - The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition

An important range for the brand, Zenith keeps enlarging its Defy collection. The name of the collection dates to Zenith’s 1902 line of robust pocket watches bearing the name ‘Defi’, which popped up again in 1969 to distinguish the toughest member of the first El Primero references known as the A3642. The Defy Skyline sub-collection appeared […]

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Nacho’s Picks From Omega, Zenith, Breitling, And More Fratello
Breitling Sep 7, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Nacho’s Picks From Omega, Zenith, Breitling, And More

The time has come to wrap up our Best Watches Under €10K series, and I have the privilege of closing out this latest run. Doubling the budget from €5K unlocks a wealth of possibilities, and today, I’ll be looking to exploit those, even if it does call for a bit of finessing. Still, while I […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Nacho’s Picks From Omega, Zenith, Breitling, And More to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Lex’s Picks From Grand Seiko, IWC, And Zenith Fratello
Grand Seiko IWC Sep 4, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Lex’s Picks From Grand Seiko, IWC, And Zenith

With €10K to spend, I decided to play it safe on the brand side and a little wilder on the color side. That’s why I ended up with a furiously red Grand Seiko, a sinister black IWC, and a Zenith that makes me slightly indecisive: do I decide on the version with the green or […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Lex’s Picks From Grand Seiko, IWC, And Zenith to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Thor’s Picks From Cartier, Grand Seiko, And Zenith Fratello
Grand Seiko Aug 28, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Thor’s Picks From Cartier, Grand Seiko, And Zenith

Well, that is what I wrote when I started this story, genuinely believing that I would have a problem choosing. But as many times before, RJ, Mike, and others have finished their Best Watches Under €10K stories and stolen my chosen thunder. The €5K–10K segment is not easy for me as my taste annoyingly tends […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Thor’s Picks From Cartier, Grand Seiko, And Zenith to read the full article.

Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration with Artist Felipe Pantone Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration Aug 27, 2024

Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration with Artist Felipe Pantone

Over the past few years, Zenith’s limited edition releases made in collaboration with Felipe Pantone have been a highlight among the deluge of collaborative limited editions that have become so popular as of late. The Zenith x Pantone pieces tend to feel like little pieces of art, which is appropriate when the collaborate is a visual artist. These collaborations also seem to be right at home within the Defy line, a collection that has embraced a flair for color and the avant-garde as long as it has been in existence. The latest release from the pair is perhaps their most ambitious yet, and marks the first time Pantone has had a hand in a watch in the current Defy Skyline collection.  The Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone takes what is almost certainly the brand’s most exotic Defy and gives it a blast of the chromatic and optical touches that Pantone is known for. The tourbillon, of course, is the literal centerpiece of the design, and the bridge has been refashioned here as a lightning bolt, a motif found throughout Pantone’s work. Its colorful gradient and metallic finish is reminiscent of the finishing that made the first Pantone collaboration such a standout.  While the previous Felipe Pantone collaborations have featured dials that are largely skeletonized, a different approach was taken with the new Defy Skyline Tourbillon. The dial is a large sapphire disc and has been micro-engraved with a pattern of concentric circles. This “moire” effect is anothe...