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Eric Giroud

Architect-trained Geneva designer behind MB&F\'s entire HM and LM series, plus Bovet, Manufacture Royale, Greubel Forsey commissions.

A Sneak Peek at the Watches of Windup Watch Fair NYC 2025 Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Oris Oct 7, 2025

A Sneak Peek at the Watches of Windup Watch Fair NYC 2025

For the conclusion of Worn & Wound’s 10 year anniversary of the Windup Watch Fair, we’ll be returning to Center415 on Fifth Avenue, right in the heart of New York CIty. For the second year in a row in this venue, we’ll be bringing over 140 brands from 17 different countries from around the world. These brands range from high-end outfits like M.A.D. Editions, to some of our favorite strapmakers like Spring Made, to this year’s mix of new and returning Lead Sponsors. This will be an unforgettable experience! Center415 on 5th Avenue Between 37th and 38th Streets (415 Fifth Ave) Friday, October 17: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, October 18: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, October 19: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to everyone No registration necessary This year, we’re thrilled about our returning Lead Sponsors-Bulova, Christopher Ward, Oris, and Shinola. They are now joined by Bremont, who’s making their debut at Windup NYC this year. We couldn’t be more excited for this mix of brands, each working hard to create watches for the enthusiast community and beyond. Here’s a rundown of what watches you can expect to see from each of our Lead Sponsors. Bremont – Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey Bremont’s new Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey takes the brand’s signature ruggedness and channels it into a more understated form. Its 42mm case, crafted from ultra-matte Grade 2 titanium, gives it a sleek and durable presence designed to absorb light and reduce glare. Beneath the minimalist ...

Nomos Expands their Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Collection with Three New Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Nomos Expands their Club Sport Oct 3, 2025

Nomos Expands their Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Collection with Three New Limited Editions

I like to think I have a good balance in my life. While I live in a very rural part of the U.S., I’m equally able to spend time in cities around the world thanks to my work. Because of this, I appreciate the late nights in unfamiliar places all the more – at home, I’m in bed by 10:00 PM most nights with my three elderly dogs. It’s this, then, that attracts me so much to the new colorways of the Club Sport neomatik Worldtime with its Night Navigation Series: Grid, Trace, and Vector. These three references are designed to highlight the bit of thrill and adventure of entering a new city and navigating by the neon signs, storefront windows, and flashing crosswalks.  While longtime readers will know we’ve featured the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer, it still remains a favorite for those looking for a watch that can balance its sporty design with the elegance that Nomos Glashütte excels at. This is due, in part, to the proportionality of the watch itself. Clocking in at a not-too-big-not-too-small Goldilocks-sized 40mm, it feels all the more slighter with its 9.9mm thickness. In fact, it’s the thinnest watch of its kind, making it just another reason to highlight the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer among its competitors. As mentioned, three new references have been released with this series. Trace pairs black and turquoise; Grid in amber; and Vector in olive and ecru. While each is defined by its relation to traveling at night, it works just as well as a daily watch...

Hamilton Puts The Khaki Collection In Its Natural Habitat In The “Step Outside” Campaign Fratello
Hamilton Puts Oct 3, 2025

Hamilton Puts The Khaki Collection In Its Natural Habitat In The “Step Outside” Campaign

I do not embark on nearly as many adventures as I would love to. As much as I like to tell myself it’s due to a lack of time, I know that’s not true, and the watch on my wrist is an excellent reminder that I need to go out more. Most of us wear […] Visit Hamilton Puts The Khaki Collection In Its Natural Habitat In The “Step Outside” Campaign to read the full article.

Seiko Orange Monster: Unlikely Icon Or Monstrosity? Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Oct 1, 2025

Seiko Orange Monster: Unlikely Icon Or Monstrosity?

The beginning of October is the official marker of the beginning of spooky season, at least in my opinion. In the spirit of Halloween inching closer and closer on our calendars, I thought it would be fun to take a deep dive into a watch that really channels the energy of the season, at least as far as nicknames go – the Seiko Monster. And, to lean even further into the fanfare, I’ll be focusing solely on the most Halloween-appropriate colorways of the Seiko Monster universe – that’s right, it's the bright, pumpkin-y Seiko Orange Monster from here on out. Below, I’ll be walking you through a little history lesson for context, breaking down the various generations of Seiko’s Monster diver, ultimately to help you determine for yourself if this watch is an unlikely icon or a horological monstrosity.  Seiko Monster Context First things first – the “Monster” moniker is a nickname for this line of divers that the enthusiast community came up with itself, and the brand has yet to embrace it officially. The early 2000s, at large, is representative of something of an identity crisis for the watch world, as the necessity of wristwatches as a time-keeping tool waned. Each brand has its own approach, but when I think of the early 2000s for watches, chunky, bold, imaginative, and somewhat overbuilt pieces are the first things that come to mind, especially on the heels of the relatively conservative watch designs of the 1990s. Ultimately, the origin story of the Seiko ...

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph RD#5, a Thin Watch with Tall Ambitions SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Chronograph Oct 1, 2025

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph RD#5, a Thin Watch with Tall Ambitions

Audemars Piguet (AP) reinvents the chronograph with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5. Inside the titanium and palladium BMG case – standing just 8.1 mm high – is the cal. 8100, a new take on the chronograph mechanism that employs spring-loaded racks to gather and store energy. The RD#5 is the fifth and final instalment in the “RD” series of watches that underline the impressive technical know-how of AP, particularly its Le Locle manufacture that evolved from Renaud & Papi (APRP). Conceived with the goal of creating a chronograph that is extra slim and easy on the fingers, the RD#5 boasts exceptionally light and comfortable pusher feel, an instantaneously-jumping minutes counter, and an exceptionally slim profile (thanks in part to peripheral winding), all while remaining amenable to industrial-haute horlogerie manufacturing. It’s one of the most technically interesting debuts of 2025, and we explain AP’s new take on the chronograph in detail below. The cal. 8100 with its unorthodox chronograph and peripheral rotor Initial thoughts Outwardly just another Royal Oak, with the same ideal proportions and class-leading bracelet as the iconic “Jumbo”, the RD#5 is actually one of the most innovative mechanical chronographs in recent years. Perhaps the only comparison for out-of-the-box chronograph construction is AgenGraphe that was unveiled almost a decade ago. The watch was evidently developed with two goals in ...

Join The Breitling × Fratello Evening In Enschede On November 7th Fratello
Breitling × Fratello Evening Sep 30, 2025

Join The Breitling × Fratello Evening In Enschede On November 7th

It is with pride that I announce the upcoming Breitling × Fratello event, which will take place in the city where I was born. In fact, the Breitling boutique in Enschede is part of Koelink Jewelers, the store where I got my first serious watch back in 1998. On November 7th, we will host a […] Visit Join The Breitling × Fratello Evening In Enschede On November 7th to read the full article.

Hot Take: The New Tudor 1926 Luna - Nailing It On The First Try? Fratello
Tudor 1926 Luna - Nailing Sep 29, 2025

Hot Take: The New Tudor 1926 Luna - Nailing It On The First Try?

The new Tudor 1926 Luna marks an unexpected first for the brand - a moonphase complication. We have come to expect new variations within the Black Bay or Pelagos lines. This time, though, Tudor chose its most understated collection for a milestone complication. The result is a 39mm dressy number with the brand’s very first […] Visit Hot Take: The New Tudor 1926 Luna - Nailing It On The First Try? to read the full article.

Entry-Level Cartier: Four Options From New To Vintage Fratello
Cartier Four Options From New Sep 28, 2025

Entry-Level Cartier: Four Options From New To Vintage

Cartier is a brand that has been on an absolute roll in recent years. Some readers may remember a time when self-proclaimed watch geeks unfairly considered Cartier “a jewelry brand that also sells watches.” However, the tide of perception has truly shifted in the last decade or so, and Cartier’s timepieces now seem hotter than […] Visit Entry-Level Cartier: Four Options From New To Vintage to read the full article.

Introducing: The Kiwame Tokyo Kurotsuki And Usuki Models Fratello
Kurono Tokyo Hajime Asaoka Kikuchi […] Sep 27, 2025

Introducing: The Kiwame Tokyo Kurotsuki And Usuki Models

Switzerland, Germany, and Japan make up my “big three” of the watchmaking world, with France on the rise. Yet, of all these hubs, Japan has been slow to embrace the microbrand trend. Big brands, including Seiko, Grand Seiko, Citizen, Orient, and Casio, dominate the market. Recently, however, independents such as Kurono Tokyo, Hajime Asaoka, Kikuchi […] Visit Introducing: The Kiwame Tokyo Kurotsuki And Usuki Models to read the full article.

From the Seiko SKX to the SPB317: How I Fell in Love with Seiko Again Worn & Wound
Seiko SKX Sep 25, 2025

From the Seiko SKX to the SPB317: How I Fell in Love with Seiko Again

At the end of summer 2014, Dad gave me my first mechanical watch. There was nothing ceremonial about it; he simply handed me the box in the car. “I’m starting a new tradition, and it’s a grown-up gift since you’re heading to college,” he said. I looked down at the box. It said Seiko. I was familiar with the brand. In fact, it was what I had been wearing up to that point: reference SNE039, a mid-sized solar-powered watch that Grandpa gave me when he saw me showing interest in it. I still have it. But this Seiko was different. It was a reference SKX173, a sibling of the beloved SKX007 dive watch that has led many a good man down the rabbit hole. It had a waterproof case, rotating dive bezel that I had no clue how to operate, and most importantly, an automatically winding movement.  “It’s easy – just shake it a bit to get it going,” said Dad. (OGs will remember the caliber 7s26’s lack of hand winding). I took the watch out of the box and shuffled it back and forth gently to coax it to life. It did, and as I stared at the sweeping seconds hand, I marveled that a microscopic team of gears, levers, and springs were all working harmoniously just to tell time. As an incoming engineering student, I couldn’t have asked for a better gift. I secured the black rubber strap on my wrist, and that was that. The remainder of the summer was spent reading everything I could get my hands on about Seiko watches and mechanical timekeeping at large. The excitement of movin...

Modding To The Max: The Artisans De Genève Absolute Ruby Surpasses Anything The Watch Workshop Did Before Fratello
Sep 24, 2025

Modding To The Max: The Artisans De Genève Absolute Ruby Surpasses Anything The Watch Workshop Did Before

You may very well be looking at the pinnacle of watch modding. The Artisans de Genève Absolute Ruby is a personalized creation with a price tag of US$550,000 hanging from it. As the name suggests, rubies take center stage in this world-famous chronograph, which initially looked more humble when the client handed it over to […] Visit Modding To The Max: The Artisans De Genève Absolute Ruby Surpasses Anything The Watch Workshop Did Before to read the full article.

Owner’s Review: a Collector’s Perspective on the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Worn & Wound
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sep 23, 2025

Owner’s Review: a Collector’s Perspective on the Bulgari Octo Finissimo

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic first debuted at Baselworld 2017, and I remember every journalist I ran into, telling me to go check out the Bulgari booth. I met with Pascal Brandt (then marketing manager), and a genuine watch geek I had known for some time. He showed me Octo Finissimo Automatic in titanium, and it was a “Wow” moment. I felt like I was holding a future classic in my hands, comparable to someone holding the Royal Oak for the first time in Basel in 1972 (and yes, there is a Genta connection). I had a couple of initial thoughts when I first experienced the Octo – I knew Bulgari had already made two of the slimmest complication Octo Finissimo’s in 2015 and 2016, but I chalked that to a fashion brand making a high complication for their wealthiest clients. But this was different, Bulgari managed to pull off the slimmest automatic watch that is lightweight, yet durable, with a micro-rotor movement for about $12,000. The second thought was that this is something special and, for me, a must own piece. Before I get into the ownership aspect of the Octo, I will give a brief history on how Bulgari got elevated to a serious watchmaking brand. The story of Bulgari’s transformation from a luxury fashion brand to a high-end watchmaker began in the year 2000. The watch industry was struggling after the late 1990’s financial crisis. In July 2000, Bulgari paid 37.6 million Swiss francs to acquire Gerald Genta SA, Daniel Roth SA, as well as Manufacture de Ha...

Introducing: The New Farer Three Hands Series III Collection Fratello
Farer Three Hands Series III Sep 20, 2025

Introducing: The New Farer Three Hands Series III Collection

Farer continues to roll out attractive and affordable watches packed with value. The British brand turned 10 this year, and I’m impressed with how it has matured. Plus, as someone residing in the UK, I’ve begun seeing an increasing number of the company’s watches in the wild. Positively, today’s new releases, the Three Hands Series […] Visit Introducing: The New Farer Three Hands Series III Collection to read the full article.

Remembering Robert Redford, His Films, and His Influence on the Watch Community Worn & Wound
Sep 16, 2025

Remembering Robert Redford, His Films, and His Influence on the Watch Community

I’m part of a generation that grew up appreciating Robert Redford, who passed away this morning at the age of 89, primarily through the lens of their parents. Specifically, in my case, through my mom, who I can remember renting The Sting for me and my sister when we were children, certainly too young to appreciate Redford’s cultural impact on a generation of moviegoers, but not too young to understand his movie star magnetism. That’s something that defies age.  Over the years, as my movie education expanded and deepened, I began to see Redford in a series of different lights. At times, he was the consummate leading man. At others he exemplified a particular type of American authenticity and charm. As he aged, he grew into roles where he played learned experts, passing on knowledge (and movie star bona fides) to new generations of actors. Perhaps most importantly, he was an evangelist for movies, the founder of the Sundance Film Festival, and spent much of his later life promoting and elevating independent film in one way or another. He was also, of course, an important part of the watch community and over the years has been responsible for more watch spotting Instagram posts, articles, and podcasts, than perhaps any other celebrity. His Red Sub, to us, became an extension of Redford’s persona. It was as much a part of his image as the red jacket worn by James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause, or Audrey Hepburn’s pearls in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. The difference wi...

Hands On: Panerai Revives the Luminor 5218 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Resonance Sep 12, 2025

Hands On: Panerai Revives the Luminor 5218

There were few brands as hot as Panerai in the 2000s, and now the brand is revisiting its glory days with the Luminor Marina Militare 44 mm PAM05218. Visually, the PAM05218 a faithful remake of the Luminor ref. 5218-202/A of 1993, a “Pre-Vendome” model that became one of the most desirable watches of the 2000s. The watch retains the same design and many of the details, including the “non matching” hands, but has been upgraded with modern amenities, including a diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating for the case and a three-day movement. Initial thoughts Enthusiasts who were in the hobby in the 2000s will remember the frenzy around Panerai, which was probably the fastest growing brand during the period. Many models sold over retail, sometimes for multiples. The “vintage” models like the Luminor ref. 5218-202/A were even more valuable; it cost a healthy, mid-five figures at the time. In fact, the ref. 5218-202/A cost more than an F.P. Journe Resonance at the time. In retrospect, most of it was comical yet also seems familiar given the happenings in recent years. Times have changed, but the PAM05218 is essentially unchanged from the original – which is great for those who appreciate the functional, stark design of Panerai’s core models. I like those designs, and I like the PAM05218. If there’s one Panerai in the current catalogue I would buy, it is this one. At a distance, the PAM05218 is indistinguishable from the original, but up close it is clearly a new watc...

Which Wrist Do Ladies Wear Watches On? Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 11, 2025

Which Wrist Do Ladies Wear Watches On?

I don’t think it's any secret that, statistically speaking, our audience leans more towards men. But if you couldn’t already tell by a quick glance at my author photo, I am, in fact, a girl. Thus, today’s article is in part inspired by a desire to add a bit more of a feminine touch to the content we typically do, and in part to answer to a growing number of questions (such as "which wrist do ladies wear watches on?") the team and I have been getting relating to first steps towards starting a watch collection from the girls out there – either asked by the ladies themselves, or from partners and family members trying to induct their loved ones into the cult of watches.  Below, I’ll break down some common questions aimed at those just dipping their toes into the watch-collecting hobby, and share some personal musings and philosophies I approach when building a collection, as a young(ish), scrappy girl in the industry myself. I’ve also had some of the lovely ladies from the Teddy team share wristshots from their own collection for added color, flavor, and fun!  So, where do I start? Beginnings are exciting, but they can also come with some unexpected terror as you come face-to-face with the unknown. As with any new hobby or learning something new, the initial confrontation with all the information is bound to be somewhat (or very) overwhelming. Personally, when I first began dipping my toes into watches, I experienced something akin to vertigo, teetering on the e...

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set - A Colorful Take On The Brand’s Emblematic Model Fratello
Gerald Charles Sep 11, 2025

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set - A Colorful Take On The Brand’s Emblematic Model

Gerald Charles introduces a colorful twist on its emblematic design with the Masterlink Gem-Set. For the very first time, the maison embraces gemsetting, bringing bright colors to the asymmetric case and integrated bracelet that define the model. The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set comes in three versions, each limited to 10 pieces. Join me for […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set - A Colorful Take On The Brand’s Emblematic Model to read the full article.

Hands On With The New TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer TAG Heuer Sep 6, 2025

Hands On With The New TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer

TAG Heuer has released a new look Carrera that is very different to the standard racing-inspired models. The Carrera Astronomer is designed to cast your eyes to the heavens with its new moonphase complication, and we’ve gone hands-on for a review. What We Love The dial design is unique and looks great Very easy to wear and comfortable 39mm size The Beads of Rice bracelet elevates this piece What We Don’t Lack of lume on the dial No micro-adjust on the clasp A date display could have added to the functionality Overall Rating: 8.4 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 For TAG Heuer’s first outing at Geneva Watch Days, it has released some very cool pieces, one of which (well, three really) is the TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer. A new take on the traditional moonphase complication, TAG Heuer has set out to embark on a new phase for the famous Carrera line. It has introduced three different variations of the Carrera Astronomer – A 500-piece limited edition with grey dial accents and leather strap, a seconds 500-piece limited edition two-tone steel and 18k rose gold plated model, and this, which I’m reviewing today – the full stainless steel model as part of the core collection. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer Collection with two limited edition pieces on leather and in two-tone, and the full steel core collection model But why an astronomical complication in the Carrera? So, in 1962, a significant moment in both watc...

Why YES Watches Deserve Your Attention (and A Slot in Your Watch Box) Worn & Wound
Sep 4, 2025

Why YES Watches Deserve Your Attention (and A Slot in Your Watch Box)

When I started collecting watches many years ago, I vividly remember stumbling upon a blog discussing YES and their array of unique and technologically advanced watches. I’m typically not someone who utilizes many of the functions on a watch besides the basic time and date keeping, but when I saw how complicated the dial and modes were on these, I knew I would have to own at least one at some point. Now with two different models in my collection, I wish I could go back and thank the author of that blog for steering me in the right direction all those years prior. For those of you who haven’t seen or heard of YES before, allow me to shed light on them just like that blog did.   A Brief History of the Company For a more in-depth rundown on how YES came to be, I highly recommend reading the writeup by the brand’s founder himself, Bjorn Kartomten, featured on their website. Here, I want to instead offer some insight on the brand’s models and technological innovations rather than the nuts and bolts of how the brand came to be. As I’m sure you’ve already been able to gather by the included photos thus far, these aren’t your typical three-handers. Throughout YES’ catalog are watches boasting equinox and solstice alerts, lunar phase information, daylight and nighttime readouts and estimates, sun and moon calculators to show lunar data for any locations between the years 2000 and 2100, high and low tide indicators, phase elapse countdown timers, compasses, alarms,...

Review: the Héron Mirabel GMT Worn & Wound
Aug 28, 2025

Review: the Héron Mirabel GMT

I think we can all agree that watch enthusiasm is often intertwined with a bit of cosplaying. James Bond-esque fantasies of tackling adventures in go-anywhere-do-anything watches have a powerful way of convincing office-dwelling collectors such as myself that over-engineered specs are a necessity. While actual practical need for secret agent-level robustness may be minimal for most collectors (I haven’t engaged in hand to hand combat or an aquatic chase all week), the pervasiveness of often repetitive feeling GADA designs can make avoiding rugged tool watches feel like a chore. This is especially true in the microbrand arena where many brands have made the dive watch their bread and butter and seemingly the format for all other complications, including GMTs. While I’m not here to throw shade (OK, maybe just a little) at the ubiquitous and often unimaginative tool watches that clearly reign supreme for many brands and collectors alike, I would be lying if I said the recent prevalence of dress watches in my Instagram feed hasn’t provided some much welcome variety. But even in this evolving landscape as dressier designs are having a moment, as I scroll through my curated collection of microbrand inspired hashtags, most #dresswatches from small independent brands are notably void of complications beyond a date window. Canadian microbrand Héron (known for their modern approach to neo-vintage inspired tool watches since 2021) seems to have recognized this gap between for...

Paulin Introduces the Mara, their First Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Aug 21, 2025

Paulin Introduces the Mara, their First Dive Watch

Earlier this year at the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, I heard some buzz that a member of the Paulin team was wearing the watch they’d be debuting at the end of the summer, and that it was a diver. At the time, it seemed almost illogical. Paulin, in my mind, is the definition of a design oriented brand. I own a Paulin Modul, and love the visual impression of the case and dial, and the ingenuity behind the concept of a case built from the ground up to enable the swapping of movements. Dive watches have been made and remade over and over again, and I tend to have the feeling that there’s nothing new under the sun when it comes to tool oriented watches aimed at the enthusiast. Obviously I should have had a little more confidence in Paulin to subvert expectations and create something with their own unique stamp on it.  The Mara, the brand’s new diver, is finally unveiled to the public today, and it still impresses me just as much at launch as it did when I got a short sneak peek in San Francisco. What we have here is a 300 meter diver in stainless steel measuring 39.7mm in diameter. The case is styled as a more robust version of the Modul, and indeed it does have similar lines, particularly in the way the lugs angle inwards toward the center of the case if you view the watch from the front. Everything is just a little more rounded, though, which feels like a small tribute to traditional dive watch design.  The most impressive design cue here in my opinion however...

What Is A Tourbillon? Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 21, 2025

What Is A Tourbillon?

For many watch collectors, acquiring one's first tourbillon watch is a Holy Grail, a rite of passage into the upper echelons of horological connoisseurship. If you're new to the watch appreciation game, however, you may be wondering what all the fuss is about. What is so special about tourbillon watches, anyway, and what makes them so desirable to so many while still being so prohibitively expensive for most? The short answer is that a tourbillon is, in this day and age, less of a necessity and more of a badge of historical high-watchmaking excellence. For a more detailed explanation, read on.  The First Tourbillons and Early Innovations The inventor of the tourbillon is a name that is likely familiar to watch connoisseurs. Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823), a native of Switzerland who plied his trade as a watchmaker in Paris, was one of horology’s most significant historical figures, among whose many innovations was the first self-winding movement, the first repeater movement with a gong, one of the earliest constant-force escapements, and the device that he famously patented in 1801, the so-called tourbillon escapement.  While the tourbillon is today considered by many to be a complication, like a chronograph or calendar mechanism, its original purpose was a fully practical one, to compensate for the ill effects of gravity on the movement of a pocket watch and thus improve its long-term accuracy. Remember, in Breguet’s time, watches were not worn on wrists, where ...