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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

Richard Mille Unveils the RM 27-05 Rafael Nadal SJX Watches
Richard Mille Unveils May 30, 2024

Richard Mille Unveils the RM 27-05 Rafael Nadal

Described by the brand as the “climactic conclusion” of the line of ultra-light watches made for the tennis champion, the RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal weighs just 11.5 g without its strap – or about two sheets of A4 printer paper. Like many of Richard Mille’s watches, the RM 27-05 is cased in carbon composite, specifically Carbon TPT B.4. More compact than the brand’s typical watches, the tonneau-shaped case is a compact 37.25mm by 7.2 mm. And according to Richard Mille, it is shock resistant to about 14,000 g. Initial thoughts Richard Mille was the first to make ultra-light a thing in watches with the RM009 ALUSiC that was introduced almost 20 years ago. The brand took the concept to the extreme with the RM 27 that debuted in 2010. Weighing just 13 g without the strap, it was conceived for Rafael Nadal to wear while playing tennis. The watches have gotten even lighter since then, and the RM 27-05 is the final chapter in the series. Weighing essentially nothing at 11.5 g without the strap, it is as lightweight as it gets for a mechanical watch of this type. Besides being the most extreme example of Richard Mille’s ultra-light philosophy, the RM 27-05 is also quintessential Richard Mille in terms of style. The notched outline and vents on the case, and the hyper-mechanical appearance of the skeleton movement, are very much typical of the brand’s current design ethos. In short the watch is very much Richard Mille. That also holds true for the price, ...

Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Makes A Comeback Fratello
Gerald Genta May 30, 2024

Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Makes A Comeback

The Credor Locomotive is a fascinating design from the late 1970s. Today, the brand has brought it back to life. Let’s take a first look at this rather special timepiece and find out more. Anything Gérald Genta once touched (or, rather, designed) may as well have turned to gold. We’ve seen many brands leverage his […] Visit Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Makes A Comeback to read the full article.

Introducing – The Return of the Gerald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Monochrome
Audemars Piguet 1972 Royal Oak Patek May 30, 2024

Introducing – The Return of the Gerald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive

Gerald Genta is surely mostly known for his work with Audemars Piguet (1972, Royal Oak), Patek Philippe (Nautilus, 1976) or his own bold and original creations. There is, however, much more to the man than just these two icons of the luxury sports watch category (think Universal Geneve Polerouter, Omega Constellation or Rolex King Midas). […]

Building A Watch Brand Episode 14: An Update On The Production And Presale Of The VPC Type 37HW Fratello
VPC Type 37HW It has May 30, 2024

Building A Watch Brand Episode 14: An Update On The Production And Presale Of The VPC Type 37HW

It has been a while since the last episode of Building A Watch Brand. In fact, that was a full month before the big launch, which took place on March 7th. As you may have gathered elsewhere, the VPC Type 37HW presale was a success, meeting the threshold number of sales over the first weekend. […] Visit Building A Watch Brand Episode 14: An Update On The Production And Presale Of The VPC Type 37HW to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: The Quest For Relevance In A Hype-Hungry Watch Industry Fratello
May 30, 2024

Fratello Talks: The Quest For Relevance In A Hype-Hungry Watch Industry

Welcome to the latest episode of Fratello Talks. This week, Nacho is joined by RJ and Lex to discuss their thoughts on a hype-hungry watch industry. Lately, more than ever before, it seems that big brands within the watch industry are doing their best to remain relevant by chasing hype. We saw the natural hype […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Quest For Relevance In A Hype-Hungry Watch Industry to read the full article.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts May 30, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic

The newest member of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s line of sports watches, the Polaris Geographic is a dual time zone in a modern “ocean grey” with orange accents with a practical dial layout showing a second time zone, day-night indicator, cities disc for the world time, and the power reserve. Initial thoughts Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) first introduced this complication over three decades ago as the Géographique, a full-featured travel watch that stood out from most of the simpler travel watches of the time. But it had a fairly cluttered dial, so the new Geographic is simplified, with the key change being the removal of the date. This streamlines the aesthetic though some might find the date more practical than the power reserve indicator. The movement inside is an upgraded version of the calibre in the 1990s Géographique and now has a three-day power reserve, but is still relatively complex to set. A more useful update would have been a more intuitive time zone-setting function.  The Polaris Geographic retails for US$16,100, which feels steep, particularly since JLC has historically been affordable more affordable watchmaking of good, industrial-artisanal quality.  A diving dual time zone The new Geographic adopts the style of the Polaris line, which is a modern-ish dive watch look with an inner rotation bezel. The layout remains the familiar one found on past generations of the model, with the second time zone in a sub-dial at six and the day-night indicator to its left. A...

Hands-On With The Nezumi Adventure Trio That Lets You Travel The World In Style Fratello
May 29, 2024

Hands-On With The Nezumi Adventure Trio That Lets You Travel The World In Style

The young Swedish brand Nezumi has made a name for itself with a catalog of stylish, affordable watches. Now, with the release of its new Terrain field watch, the Stockholm-based brand has completed its ultimate traveling triumvirate, the Adventure Trio. Alongside the new Terrain, we have the relatively longstanding but revised Baleine dive watch and […] Visit Hands-On With The Nezumi Adventure Trio That Lets You Travel The World In Style to read the full article.

The G-SHOCK of Fountain Pens: the Pilot Varsity Worn & Wound
Seiko May 29, 2024

The G-SHOCK of Fountain Pens: the Pilot Varsity

Without a doubt, my favorite pen is the LAMY AL-Star. I could (and very well might) write paragraphs about this incredible fountain pen - something which would be an absolute joy, thanks in large part to the lovely experience the LAMY offers - but that’s not the pen I’m here to talk about today. That’s because, despite my fondness for the iconic AL-Star, it is not the pen I use most. It’s not even the fountain pen I use the most. No, that honor goes to the humble Pilot Varsity disposable fountain pen. I would categorize the LAMY AL-Star (and its remarkably similar sibling, the Safari) as the Seiko of fountain pens. Like a Seiko, it is often cited as a great first fountain pen for people looking to try something outside the typical rollerballs and ballpoints we see everyday. Also like a Seiko, the LAMY is a gateway pen, one which often leads to other more expensive options. The LAMY could easily be the one pen with which you live your entire life. For a totally reasonable amount of money, anyone could be happy with a LAMY, just as anyone could be happy with a Seiko SPB Diver. The AL-Star’s got everything you need, and nothing you don’t. It’s well-made, well-designed, and comes in so many variations that it would be hard not to find one that suits your taste. Pen collectors I know who have pens many multiples (sometimes many, many) the value of the LAMY still frequently cite it as one of their favorites. But if the LAMY is the Seiko of fountain pens, then t...

Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos Fratello
Hermes May 29, 2024

Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos

The Hermès Cut debuted in April at Watches and Wonders in Geneva. That’s why we were quite surprised when we received an invite from Hermès for a press trip organized around this new watch. Usually, trips like this are organized in advance to focus everyone’s attention on the novelty. It’s also common that the program […] Visit Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos to read the full article.

The Red Arrows Celebrate Their 60th Display Season With Two New Breitling Avenger Watches Fratello
Breitling Avenger Watches Even if May 29, 2024

The Red Arrows Celebrate Their 60th Display Season With Two New Breitling Avenger Watches

Even if you’re not a plane spotter or an aviation enthusiast, the name Red Arrows might very well ring a bell. The Red Arrows are the RAF’s legendary aerobatic display team that is celebrating its 60th display season this year. What better way to so do than with accurate formation flying, synchronized barrel rolls, and […] Visit The Red Arrows Celebrate Their 60th Display Season With Two New Breitling Avenger Watches to read the full article.

Manufacture Visit: Thomas Explores The Vallée De Joux With Jaeger-LeCoultre Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre One May 29, 2024

Manufacture Visit: Thomas Explores The Vallée De Joux With Jaeger-LeCoultre

One of the perks of this job is that we get to see where and how watches are made. I love a good manufacture visit as it provides context for the watches, allowing a look into the places and people behind them. It also provides comparability between brands. Once you have a couple of these […] Visit Manufacture Visit: Thomas Explores The Vallée De Joux With Jaeger-LeCoultre to read the full article.

Watch Bracelet Types: Here Are the Most Famous and Popular Styles Teddy Baldassarre
May 28, 2024

Watch Bracelet Types: Here Are the Most Famous and Popular Styles

Among the many decisions facing a prospective watch buyer before pulling the trigger on a new timepiece, is choosing which type of strap or bracelet it should have. We covered the various types of watch straps in this article; read on for our rundown of the most popular watch bracelets, focusing on some of the influential, proprietary styles from brands like Rolex and Breitling, which have impacted numerous other brands’ designs, as well as more niche-oriented options geared to collectors and historical-minded enthusiasts. Oyster Bracelet Rolex’s iconic Oyster bracelet is the template from which many other three-link bracelet styles have been drawn. Its name comes from its association with the Oyster case, which Rolex first introduced in 1926 and for which the original version of this bracelet served as an extension. Oyster bracelets are recognizable for their wide center links bordered by thinner end-links. Rolex patented the design in 1947 and fitted one on a watch in 1948. In the early versions, the links were riveted; these were phased out in favor of a “folding” style in 1967, which eventually gave way to the modern, solid-link style in 1975. Three-link bracelets like the Oyster and its various descendants are particularly popular on sports watches and dive watches.  President Bracelet The Rolex Day-Date appeared on the market in 1956 and with it came a new three-link bracelet called the President. Intended as the epitome of Rolex’s luxurious bracelet optio...

First Look – The New Black and Bronze Versions of the Cool Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver While May 28, 2024

First Look – The New Black and Bronze Versions of the Cool Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver

While most have the highly successful and appealing Aikon collection in mind, the brand’s vision of an accessible luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet, Maurice Lacroix has more items on the menu. Specifically, there’s a watch that we’ve long appreciated here at MONOCHROME, a rather unique take on the diver with a bit of […]

Time Through the Ages, Part 2: Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Genius of Invention Worn & Wound
Breguet s Genius May 28, 2024

Time Through the Ages, Part 2: Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Genius of Invention

Editor’s Note: Time Through the Ages is a four part series written by Andrew Canter, member of the British Horological Institute, Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, and the British Watch & Clock Makers Guild. In this second installment, Andrew examines the life and career of Abraham-Louis Breguet, inventor of the tourbillon and many other important watchmaking advancements. For more from Andrew, check out his work at Mr. WatchMaster.  Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823) was a designer, inventor, and watchmaker. Being a master craftsman in the field of watchmaking earned him a prestigious clientele that included Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, alongside other international nobility, and the elegance and technical innovations of his designs were considered the height of style and fashion. Portrait of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Image courtesy of Manufacture Breguet Breguet was born in Neuchâtel on the 10th January 1747, but it was in Paris that he spent most of his productive life. He is credited with the development of the successful self-winding perpétuelle watches, the introduction of the gongs for repeating watches, the first shock-protection for balance pivots and of course the tourbillon. Every watch that left his workshops demonstrated the latest horological improvements in an original movement, mostly fitted with lever or ruby-cylinder escapements that he perfected. He was a great entrepreneur and marketed his magnificent watches brilliantly. Perhaps his most ...

Introducing – New Porsche Design Custom-Built Watches For the New Hybrid Porsche 911 Generation 992.2 Monochrome
Porsche Design Custom-Built Watches May 28, 2024

Introducing – New Porsche Design Custom-Built Watches For the New Hybrid Porsche 911 Generation 992.2

Today is an important moment in the history of a 60-year iconic sports car. The new generation of Porsche 911, dubbed 992.2, has just been revealed and, as anticipated, it comes with hybrid power. Not full hybrid, but more of an electric assistance to boost the performances. What will it give on the road…? That […]

The May 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Spacewalk Fratello
May 28, 2024

The May 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Spacewalk

On June 3rd, 1965, Ed White was the first NASA astronaut to perform a spacewalk. White, who died during the horrible accident with Apollo 1 on January 27th, 1967, performed his EVA (extravehicular activity) wearing the famous Speedmaster 105.003. Therefore, we decided to come up with a new Fratello × REM Speedmaster strap available in […] Visit The May 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Spacewalk to read the full article.

First Look – MB&F; Raises the Complication Stakes with the Improved LM Sequential Flyback Platinum Monochrome
MB&F; May 28, 2024

First Look – MB&F; Raises the Complication Stakes with the Improved LM Sequential Flyback Platinum

The aphorism “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” is not often used by watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, the mastermind behind MB&F;’s most complex timepieces enhanced with his innovative technological breakthroughs. Responsible for the 2015 LM Perpetual and the LM Sequential EVO, fans of MB&F;’s wonderful watches will be delighted to learn that Stephen McDonnell is […]

The MB&F; LM Sequential Upgraded with a Flyback SJX Watches
MB&F; May 28, 2024

The MB&F; LM Sequential Upgraded with a Flyback

In 2022 MB&F; launched its first ever chronograph, the LM Sequential EVO. A twin-chronograph constructed by Stephen McDonnell, it was a clever reinterpretation of the split-seconds function. Today MB&F; upgrades the concept with the LM Sequential Flyback Platinum that boasts a revised movement incorporating an additional flyback function.  Initial thoughts The LM Sequential Flyback is certainly polarising in terms of style and technique, like most MB&F; creations. The original Sequential EVO was praised for its exceptional and creative movement construction, though the utility of the twin chronograph was debated. The LM Sequential Flyback now adds a flyback function to the package, which may seem excessive. But that misses the point: the question of utility needn’t be answered nor asked. Such a timepiece goes far past the realm of practicality and needs to be judged simply by what it is: an incredible concept painstakingly executed. We already explored in detail how Mr McDonnell implemented the Twinverter system of double chronographs mechanisms while making the complex movement chronometrically-potent, despite the obvious challenges. I recommend reading the original story, as it thoroughly explains the beautiful mechanical subtleties of the watch. In the original Sequential EVO, the layered and complex construction of the movement meant the flyback function couldn’t be reliably implemented. Mr McDonnell ultimately dropped the idea and focused on perfecting the rest of t...