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Pilot Watch

The aviation tool-watch genre. Cartier Santos (1904), the WWII B-Uhr, the French Type 20 flyback, the RAF Mark XI, the Breitling Navitimer.
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History of the Cartier Santos: the first pilot watch, and arguably the first proper wristwatch

Louis Cartier built it in 1904 for his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, who was fed up fumbling for his pocket watch mid-flight. 121 years later the square case with exposed screws is still the sharpest dress-sports piece on the shelf. Here is how it got there.
Introducing: The Manhattan Project By Maen × Seconde/Seconde/ Fratello
Maen × Seconde/Seconde/ Watch collecting Jun 7, 2024

Introducing: The Manhattan Project By Maen × Seconde/Seconde/

Watch collecting is about fun, and for most people worldwide, spending nearly €1,000 on a watch is a luxury. We can get perfectly capable time-telling watches for €30, so we collect more expensive ones for other reasons. What about wearing something with a deeper meaning? Maen makes some great takes on vintage-inspired wristwear, while seconde/seconde/ […] Visit Introducing: The Manhattan Project By Maen × Seconde/Seconde/ to read the full article.

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Anoma Makes 1950s Asymmetrical Style Affordable SJX Watches
Patek Philippe or dive watch While Jun 6, 2024

Anoma Makes 1950s Asymmetrical Style Affordable

Newly established “micro” brand Anoma follows a familiar template: making particular vintage designs or genres affordable. But it’s approaching the concept with a different flavour. Instead of “sector” dials or Breguet numerals, the brand’s inaugural watch, the A1 First Series, is a clean, geometric form inspired by 1950s furniture. Initial thoughts The A1 is refreshing change from the typical “micro” brand offering that is too often a remake of a vintage Patek Philippe or dive watch. While the A1 won’t have the broad appeal of a conventional round watch, it is an interesting alternative for someone on a budget. The A1 is more typical of “micro” brand offerings in its fit and finish. It is done well for the price, but some compromises had to be made to achieve the affordability. The gap between the case middle and back, for instance, is quite obvious. This isn’t a criticism but a fact true of all brands in this genre. Vintage flavour Founded by Matteo Violet Vianello, a management consultant who’s a watch entrepreneur on the side, Anoma aims to be a “experimental and daring vision of watch design”. The A1 is not modelled on a watch, but instead a triangular table designed in the 1950s by French architect Charlotte Perriand. Earlier in her career Perriand worked at Le Corbusier’s studio, where she helped design several now-famous pieces of furniture, including the B 306 chaise longue. The watch reproduces the outline of the table with the cas...

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The Roundup: Familiar Favorites and Some Newcomers Too Worn & Wound
Citizen Fugu” dive watch May 26, 2024

The Roundup: Familiar Favorites and Some Newcomers Too

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. This week we kick things off with something you’ve never seen before: the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver made in collaboration with the RedBar watch club. Next, we appreciate the fact that G-Shock has made a genuinely smaller everyday watch in the form of the Digital Basic. The Remix from Gerber is our kit feature this week, while our very own Hexagon Watch Tube covers all your watch storage needs. Last but not least, the Citizen “Fugu” dive watch is our deal of the week. You won’t want to miss any of this. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, whi...

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eBay Finds: A Lord Elgin with Dramatic Hooded Lugs, a Pair of Great Bulovas, and an Omega Constellation in Great Shape Worn & Wound
Hamilton Octagonal Men’s Watch  We Feb 16, 2024

eBay Finds: A Lord Elgin with Dramatic Hooded Lugs, a Pair of Great Bulovas, and an Omega Constellation in Great Shape

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! eBay Finds #92 Vintage Hamilton Octagonal Men’s Watch  We have a neat one to start off this week, a vintage circa 1970’s Hamilton octagonal gold plated presentation watch with the Exxon logo on the dial. I love these company branded dials, they really provide a unique look. The gold plated case looks new, and has an octagonal shape with both polished and brushed finishes, with a steel snap-on caseback. The white dial is clean as a whistle, with simple stick markers and hands, a day/date window at 3 o’clock, and of course the Exxon logo above the 6. It comes on a stretch bracelet that also has brushed and polished finishes and compliments the watch perfectly. Best of all this gem comes with inner and outer boxes and the original hang tag! View auction here Vintage Lord Elgin  Here’s a sweet vintage Lord Elgin dress watch from 1953. The 24k gold filled case measures 25mm wide, and has fancy bowtie hooded lugs. The case is in nice shape, with no wearthrough on the lugs, but I do see some brassing on the crown side of the case. The white dial is absolutely immaculate, with applied gold markers that are alternating Arabic numerals and little stars. Great piece that would look sha...

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101 Best Men's Watches For Every Price Range in 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Lunar Pilot Price $825 Jan 2, 2024

101 Best Men's Watches For Every Price Range in 2026

What are the best men's watches you can buy today? As with listing the "best" cars, wines, cookware, or mobile devices, answers will of course vary widely based on personal tastes, practical needs, and budgets. Whether your inclination runs to elegant and dressy timepieces that will impress your coworkers in the boardroom, or if you prefer a tougher, stylish-yet-practical watch that you can wear to the beach or the racetrack, or even if you're someone looking to fly your tech-nerd flag in your wrist, our massive compilation of the 101 best men's watches - incorporating brands and models nominated by various TB team members and covering numerous styles, price points, and categories - has you covered in just about every popular category. To keep it helpful, we arrange every category in ascending order of price. Our current compilation of the 101 Best Watches includes longstanding classics as well as watches released within the last year. Check back in for regular updates and/or additions to the list. CLASSIC CHRONOGRAPHS Bulova Lunar Pilot Price: $825, Case Size: 46mm, Thickness: 13.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 52mm, Water Resistance: 50m, Movement: Quartz Bulova 262kHz, Crystal: Sapphire The Bulova Lunar Pilot is an homage to the Bulova chronograph worn by U.S. astronaut Dave Scott on the Moon during the Apollo 15 mission. Visually, the new Lunar Pilot is a faithful recreation, retaining the curvy case shape and distinctive elongated pushers of the original. The dial i...

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Complete Guide to Type 20 Pilot’s Watch Chronographs - Reprise Quill & Pad
Dec 23, 2023

Complete Guide to Type 20 Pilot’s Watch Chronographs - Reprise

Type 20 is a specification by the French Ministry of Defense for the standard-equipment pilot's watch chronographs. Unlike German pilot's watch specifications, those for the French Type 20 are not clearly documented but are rather based on common characteristics shared by various manufacturers. Bhanu Chopra explains what makes these watches so sought after and goes through the main models and characteristics.

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Archimede Reaches to the Past with their Latest Vintage Inspired Pilot’s Watch Worn & Wound
Ming ly generous amounts Dec 7, 2023

Archimede Reaches to the Past with their Latest Vintage Inspired Pilot’s Watch

Everybody loves a nice surprise. Right in time for the holiday season, Archimede is releasing a special capsule of their so-called “Vintage Edition” watches. As a callback to an older collection called Classic Retro, these watches are limited in number and designed to stay as true as possible to how a German-made Archimede pilot or field watch would have looked in the last century. There are five variants (one of which is already sold out as of this writing), and each brings its own old world charm. The Archimede Vintage Edition is probably most closely characterized as a pilot’s watch thanks to its legible dial and large onion-shaped crown, but you wouldn’t be out of line calling it a field watch either. Its 42mm stainless steel case is manufactured by ICKLER in Pforzheim, Germany and is sandblasted all the way around, which gives it a matte finish. The case is 51mm lug to lug and only 9.8 mm thick. The aforementioned crown is large and finished for maximum tactility, while the dial is clearly designed for optimal legibility. A subdivided railroad minute track lives on the outer edge of the dial; in the center, cathedral hands are the focal point. The Arabic numerals at each hour are large and squared off – distinctly Art Deco. Hands and hour markers all receive seemingly generous amounts of lume of varying colors depending on your configuration. On three of the versions in this collection, a date window is discreetly tucked in at three. The other two references...

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A Tale of Two MAEN Manhattans Worn & Wound
Maen Manhattans As watch collectors Dec 4, 2023

A Tale of Two MAEN Manhattans

As watch collectors and enthusiasts know, the devil is in the details – whether it’s a pop of color, a date window, or a line of text, we know that subtle differences can make significant impacts. Sometimes these details don’t necessarily make or break a watch; rather they bring out different characteristics or evoke certain emotions. In the case of the MAEN x Worn & Wound Manhattan LE and the regular production Manhattan, we get two (maybe even three) different vibes altogether. As watch collectors and enthusiasts know, the devil is in the details – whether it’s a pop of color, a date window, or a line of text, we know that subtle differences can make significant impacts. Sometimes these details don’t necessarily make or break a watch; rather they bring out different characteristics or evoke certain emotions. In the case of the MAEN x Worn & Wound Manhattan LE and the regular production Manhattan, we get two (maybe even three) different vibes altogether. The post A Tale of Two MAEN Manhattans appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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IWC Debuts the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona or Heuer Carrera Nov 18, 2023

IWC Debuts the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph

Just in time for the Formula 1 Las Vegas Grand Prix, IWC reveals another rendition of a racing chronograph, the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph. Available in two guises either titanium or Ceratanium, the new model retains the familiar visage of the standard Pilot’s Chronograph but with racetrack-inspired tweaks. Initial thoughts IWC has never quite had a bona fide racing chronograph with the gravitas of the Rolex Daytona or Heuer Carrera. Its past racing timepieces included the little loved and now discontinued Ingenieur and the more successful Pilot’s Chronograph Mercedes-AMG.  With the success of the Pilot’s Chronograph Mercedes-AMG with its Tiffany blue-esque colour, it’s unsurprising that another iteration has come along. The new chronograph has a distinctive racing aesthetic despite being a Pilot’s Chronograph, thanks to the tachymeter scale and more pronounced dial markings. The Formula 1 feel is particularly evident in the Ceratanium model that’s distinguished by its predominantly black design embellished with white and mint green accents.  That said, the paradox of a Formula 1-inspired aviator’s watch is hard to understand – the two themes don’t go together at all, although it is an appealing sports watch. IWC is relying on the strength of its bestselling Pilot’s line to build a racing offering, in part due to the Ingenieur’s historical lack of success. The Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team model The model starts at US$9,800 in ...

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eBay Finds: Chronographs from Seiko and Heuer, Pulsar LED, & More Worn & Wound
Bulova A17A Military Watch Vintage Nov 3, 2023

eBay Finds: Chronographs from Seiko and Heuer, Pulsar LED, & More

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Bulova A17A Military Watch Vintage military watches are always highly sought after, and this one is a really cool example. The Bulova A17A mil-spec is small but mighty. These were made from about 1956-1962, and were issued as navigation watches for aviators. Nice smaller but chunky steel case with the original bead blasted finish and the military engravings on the back. The black dial is easy to read, and the lume has a nice patina. And you gotta love the oversized crown for the manual wind movement. No movement picture but the seller states the watch runs. View auction here. Pulsar LED I don’t know why so many vintage LED watches are popping out of the woodwork, but I’m loving it. This week we have a sleek looking vintage Pulsar LED, complete with original bracelet, inner and outer boxes and a boat load of paperwork. This is a fantastic time-capsule piece that is in immaculate condition, and is currently working great! Look at that futuro / space age look of the steel case and that wild bracelet. Even the warranty paperwork is filled out, which you rarely see. So cool! View auction here. Heuer Autavia GMT Chronograph Ok, time for a big boy. This is the famous Heuer Autavia GMT ch...

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A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater Honeygold SJX Watches
Ming watch now returns Oct 25, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater Honeygold

Well before A. Lange & Söhne debuted the entirely classical Richard Lange Minute Repeater a year ago, the brand’s flagship striking watch was a Zeitwerk. Available in white gold or platinum before, the digital chiming watch now returns in a warmer metal as the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater Honeygold. While remaining the same mechanically, the new repeater strikes a different tone according to the brand because of the case metal, a gold alloy slightly harder than conventional gold that is exclusive to Lange. Initial thoughts The new Zeitwerk repeater is more appealing than its predecessors in my eyes just because I like the gold-and-grey combination. The platinum model was monochromatic while the blue dial on the white gold model felt too modern for the watch. The movement remains exactly the same as before, which means it’s the same impressively complicated calibre that has the usual Zeitwerk features like a constant force mechanism, as well as the added complexity of an unusually constructed minute repeater with various safety mechanisms catered to the digital display. But one aspect of the new repeater is interesting, and that’s the case metal. I’ve yet to hear the watch in person, but Lange’s product development head, Anthony de Haas, is quoted as saying the new repeater “in honey gold… sounds different to all other materials ‒ truly distinctive.” Given the significant increase in hardness of honey gold relative to ordinary 18k gold, that sounds credible. ...

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Opinion: What Makes a Great Bracelet? Worn & Wound
Rolex sports watch Oct 19, 2023

Opinion: What Makes a Great Bracelet?

We talk about them all the time, but they’re often the component of a watch that is least examined. The bracelet, whether attached to a sports watch, a dress watch, or something in between, can make or break how a watch actually wears on the wrist, and impact the overall look of a watch dramatically. And when it comes to bracelets, collectors and enthusiasts are never short on strong opinions – we all have things we love and hate, and it goes way beyond whether you prefer an Oyster or a Jubilee.  Today, members of the Worn & Wound team weigh in on the question: what makes a great bracelet? Be sure to let us know what you think in the comments below.  Zach Kazan  The question of “What makes a great bracelet?” is deceptive in its complexity. There are a variety of factors you might consider and weight as you evaluate a bracelet. Comfort and appearance, of course, are chief among them. But there’s also the idea of durability, and adjustability, and the overall cohesion of the bracelet design with other elements of the watch. I’d argue, for example, that the classic Seamaster bracelet is nice looking on its own, but perhaps not suited to the watch it’s paired with.  The fact is, I prefer wearing my watches on bracelets, particularly when they are conceived that way. A Rolex sports watch on a strap, for instance, is something I’ll never fully get behind. At a time when integrated bracelet sports watches are at the height of their popularity, there’s no sho...

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IWC Revives the Big Pilot’s Watch Markus Bühler with a Tourbillon SJX Watches
IWC Revives Oct 2, 2023

IWC Revives the Big Pilot’s Watch Markus Bühler with a Tourbillon

One of the least known but perhaps most interesting iterations of IWC’s trademark oversized pilot’s watch is making a comeback, but with an upgraded movement and precious metal case. The Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler retains the key elements of its namesake 2008 original, but with a self-winding tourbillon movement inside a platinum case. The tourbillon is flying, while its cage takes the form of a turbine blade. A simple concept that played to the Big Pilot’s historical roots, the original model was conceived by a young Markus Bühler as part of a contest for IWC apprentices, but appealing enough that IWC made a dozen as a limited edition. Mr Bühler naturally won the contest and now oversees the entire assembly process at Manufakturzentrum, the IWC facility where both production of parts and assembly of in-house movements is done. Powered by the in-house cal. 82905, the Tourbillon Markus Bühler will naturally be put together at the Manufakturzentrum. Markus Bühler, now the Associate Director of Watch & Movement Assembly at Manufakturzentrum Initial thoughts The original Markus Bühler was interesting and appealing because it captured the spirit of a pilot’s watch in a novel manner while still retaining the functional aesthetics expected of such a watch. The turbine seconds was a simple modification that worked perfectly, both visually and conceptually. Now the idea has been brought back, but in a fancier package. The new Markus Bühler sti...

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Aeronom Aero One BLK Time+Tide
Ball Watch Co but any fan Sep 18, 2023

Aeronom Aero One BLK

Industrial watch design comes up a lot when discussing brands such as Hublot and Ball Watch Co, but any fan of Rammstein can assure you that nobody does industrial like the Germans. Aeronom was founded to be brash and bold, inspired by the urban sprawls of city architecture, streetwear and hip-hop. Their first release focused … ContinuedThe post Aeronom Aero One BLK appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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IWC Explores New Materials with the Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63 SJX Watches
Richard Mille have long made such Sep 14, 2023

IWC Explores New Materials with the Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63

IWC’s latest is an inspired by the legendary off-roader made by its longtime partner Mercedes-Benz, the G-Wagen. More specifically, the Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63 is named after the luxury, high-performance G 63 made by the carmaker’s performance tuning subsidiary AMG. Available in two variants, the G 63 edition retains the traditional outline of the model, but brings along novel new materials, namely a hardened gold alloy known as Armor Gold and ceramic matrix composite (CMC), a carbon fibre composite containing silicon carbide ceramic for added hardness. The Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63 in 18k Armor Gold Initial thoughts IWC rolls out a lot of Big Pilot limited editions, probably too many, but this is one of the more appealing recent editions. The basic features of the Big Pilot G 63 are appealing – novel materials, a functional design, and IWC’s seven-day movement. The textured dials and sub-seconds are both novel features for a Big Pilot. They set the new pair part from other models in the line, but don’t stray too far from the traditional Big Pilot look. More interesting are the case materials – hardened gold or silicon-infused carbon composite – which are both a first for IWC. Though brands like Hublot and Richard Mille have long made such materials a specialty, they are unusual for IWC. Notably, both versions have Super-Luminova matched with the case material, beige for the gold model and grey for CMC, which feels a bit forced. I would have preferred...

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The IWC Pilot’s Watch Gets a Full-Lume Dial SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Aug 28, 2023

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Gets a Full-Lume Dial

Soon after unveiling the Big Pilot perpetual calendar in white ceramic, IWC is introducing the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 “Black Aces”. While retaining the customary dial layout of the model, the “Black Aces” sports a fully-luminous dial – a first for the brand. The watch gets it name from the U.S. Navy’s Strike Fighter Squadron 41 “Black Aces”, which collaborated with IWC on the watch’s key design elements. Initial thoughts  The recent Top Gun watches with coloured ceramic cases have been bestsellers for IWC, though most have been complicated and pricier models. Hence, it is rather pleasing to see IWC do something with the entry-level Pilot’s Watch by giving it a simple yet appealing twist.  Instead a run-of-the-mill dial colour, the “Black Aces” gets a lume dial that’s novel for IWC. The full-lume dial, however, is not new to watchmaking, with several brands having such dials for several years now, including Bell & Ross with its pilot’s watches. Beyond the colour, the military provenance and “Black Aces” emblem gives the watch a tangible military link that many of IWC’s fans will like.  Notably, this watch contains the cal. 32100. I would have preferred the cal. 32111 that was used in the new Ingenieur instead. Both are essentially the same calibre, but the latter is a higher-spec version of the movement with a longer power reserve of 120 hours, as opposed the 72 hours of the cal. 32100.  This movement was presumably used because o...

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