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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

The Hublot Big Bang Unico Ice Bang Is A Cool Online Exclusive In Ceramic And Tungsten Fratello
Hublot Big Bang Unico Ice Apr 11, 2024

The Hublot Big Bang Unico Ice Bang Is A Cool Online Exclusive In Ceramic And Tungsten

You might be just a few clicks away from the new Hublot Big Bang Unico Ice Bang. It’s an online exclusive only available through Hublot’s e-commerce boutique, and it’s also a limited edition. Just 100 pieces of this black ceramic watch outfitted with a soberly contrasting bezel in tungsten will be made. If you want […] Visit The Hublot Big Bang Unico Ice Bang Is A Cool Online Exclusive In Ceramic And Tungsten to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Flies in the Face of Convention Monochrome
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Flies Apr 11, 2024

Introducing – The New Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Flies in the Face of Convention

Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Brazilian aviator, and Louis Cartier shared a passion for machines and mechanics. In 1904, Louis Cartier presented Santos-Dumont with the first purpose-designed wristwatch with a solid, rounded square case and rivets on the bezel. The idea behind the watch was to allow Santos-Dumont to consult the time in the cockpit without having […]

Introducing – The New Bell & Ross BR 05 Black Ceramic Collection Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR 05 Black Ceramic Apr 11, 2024

Introducing – The New Bell & Ross BR 05 Black Ceramic Collection

In watchmaking, lightweight and highly resistant ceramic has become a favourite material, embraced by most brands, such as Bell & Ross. Renowned for its extensive use in the aerospace industry, ceramic is a highly technical substance that aligns seamlessly with Bell & Ross’s design philosophy rooted in aviation. Inspired by aircraft instrument panels, the brand […]

Introducing: The Updated Frederique Constant Classic (Moonphase) Date Manufacture Fratello
Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture Apr 11, 2024

Introducing: The Updated Frederique Constant Classic (Moonphase) Date Manufacture

By now, Frederique Constant is famous for its no-nonsense Swiss-made watches. The brand’s Classics collection is at the forefront of its philosophy of offering high-quality watches at a relatively affordable price. This week, at Watches and Wonders, two of the collection’s models are receiving some significant updates and upgrades on both the inside and out. […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Frederique Constant Classic (Moonphase) Date Manufacture to read the full article.

Konstantin Chaykin Returns to the Classic Joker SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Apr 11, 2024

Konstantin Chaykin Returns to the Classic Joker

ACHI member Konstantin Chaykin unveils his newest timepiece, the Joker Classic. Part of the Wristmon collection, the new Joker reverts to the original design of 2017 but boasts a case downsized to 40 mm and more notably a new movement.  Initial thoughts The Joker, as introduced back in 2017, is a very quirky timepiece, not necessary suited to a wide range of tastes. The anthropomorphic dial is as striking today as it was then, with a niche appeal. Nonetheless, the timepiece was very well received – the original 99 pieces were sold out quickly.  Since then there were some special editions based on the Joker concept, but most had their own peculiarities, mostly departing from the pure 2017 design. The Joker Classic remains exotic as ever, but feels like a return to the timepiece’s roots – complete with some embellishments and concessions to the modern industry standards.  Priced at CHF16,900, the Joker Classic is amongst the more affordable of the Wristmon models. Like the original, it is a good value proposition given its distinctive design and high level of in-house manufacturing, despite the outsourced base movement. A familiar face The Joker Classic features the trademark white dial, made to resemble a smiling face. The regulator-like separated hours and minutes indicators make up the eyes, while the open grinning mouth reveals a cheeky moon phase complication. The Joker Classic is offered in two versions: the traditional color scheme of the original Joker (whit...

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Apr 11, 2024

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar

Today, we look at the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar. This is one of my favorite models from the brand and certainly warrants attention whenever it’s updated. It’s never easy to cleanly pack in so many complications, but JLC seems to have pulled it off again. You can call me a heretic, but […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Returns! - Meet The Duometre Chronograph Moon And The Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Returns! - Meet Apr 11, 2024

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Returns! - Meet The Duometre Chronograph Moon And The Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a great watch brand, but “Le Grand Maison” from Le Sentier is arguably an even greater movement maker. There’s an impressive wall in the manufacture that brings to life the brand’s incredible tradition of creating innovative movements in all shapes and sizes. One of JLC’s latest movement highlights was the Duometre concept, which […] Visit The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Returns! - Meet The Duometre Chronograph Moon And The Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Three New Patrimony Watches Inspired By The Classic Style Of The 1950s Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Three New Patrimony Apr 11, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Three New Patrimony Watches Inspired By The Classic Style Of The 1950s

What can we expect from Vacheron Constantin when it comes to new introductions? A new version of the 222, maybe some new Overseas variations, and a small number of super complicated pieces that show the brand’s intricate craftsmanship wouldn’t be unreasonable. How about a series of super clean Patrimony models that bring us back to […] Visit Vacheron Constantin Introduces Three New Patrimony Watches Inspired By The Classic Style Of The 1950s to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Apr 11, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Introduces The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine

Every year at Watches and Wonders, Vacheron Constantin graces us with one or two exceptional pieces that show the brand’s magnificent watchmaking tradition. This year, the brand releases the brilliant Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph that is part of the exclusive Collection Excellence Platine. This 50-piece limited edition was created specifically for collectors. It’s a very exclusive […] Visit Vacheron Constantin Introduces The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine to read the full article.

History of Divers’ Watches: Voyage to the Bottom of the Ocean Quill & Pad
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Apr 11, 2024

History of Divers’ Watches: Voyage to the Bottom of the Ocean

It is often said that it is easier to send a person to the Moon than to the ocean floor because of the extreme conditions found at great depths, such as no visibility and overwhelming pressure. However, in 1960 a wristwatch (Rolex “Deep Sea Special”) accompanied mankind to the deepest ocean floor even before it accompanied mankind to the Moon in 1969 (Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch).

Back to Basics with the Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Some Apr 10, 2024

Back to Basics with the Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome”

Some things are worth the wait. Though the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT will likely get the most press from the brand’s releases at this year’s Watches & Wonders event, the release of a stripped-down, monochromatic, black and silver, 41mm Black Bay is no less significant. Why? Well, it’s the most obvious colorway for a dive watch, which means it’s bound to be a classic. First launched in 2012, the 41mm Black Bay (just called “Black Bay”) is the watch that reestablished Tudor after some time in horological purgatory. Perfectly timed to ride the wave of vintage-inspired aesthetics that dominated for the decade hence, it showed that Tudor unliked their sister brand, Rolex, was willing to be a bit trendier and fun. Originally powered by ETA movements, it was the first to receive Tudor’s in-house caliber in 2016 and then underwent a third iteration in 2023 when it received the upgraded Master Chronometer certification (and technically a new caliber), as well as a slight redesign in the form of an updated handset, crown, and profile. With the introduction of the Black Bay 58, GMT, and 54 models, new versions of the Black Bay slowed down. Several different colors have been available, from the original burgundy bezel to a steel bezel with date to two-tone models. Yet, despite its tenure, the most obvious model never existed. The model most dive watches come in as a given: simple black-black bezel, black dial, white lume, white or silver markers. No gilt, no red, no fuss....

The Grand Seiko Kodo Saga: Daybreak Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Kodo Saga Daybreak Apr 10, 2024

The Grand Seiko Kodo Saga: Daybreak

The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was such a hit that they decided to make a sequel. Okay, that’s not totally accurate. 2022’s unexpected breakout watch did get a new version just two years later, but rather than a sequel, it’s more of a redux-a different take on the same story. A director’s cut? For those who need a recap, however, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was nothing short of complete and utter shock when first unveiled, even though there had already been a teaser trailer (I’m going to try to keep this movie thing up) in the form the T0 concept movement. While known for its finishing, spring drive, and high-beat movements, Grand Seiko was not considered a manufacturer of high-end complications. As such, even though it was a concept movement, the T0, which unveiled a novel constant-force tourbillon, took everyone by surprise. When Grand Seiko then unveiled the Kodo just a short while later, which included a refined and manufacturable version (if on a small scale) of the same complication within a skeletonized and highly finished movement on par with any haute Swiss brand, it announced that Grand Seiko was ready to play on a different level. A few years later, the Kodo, though sold out, is still being assembled via a team of three specialized watchmakers within Grand Seiko Atelier Ginza studio. Back to the present. Light and shadow are pervasive themes in Grand Seiko’s design. Alongside nature, they are at the core of their ...

Introducing – The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph... Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine

Unveiled in 2020, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph was a spectacular showcase of Vacheron Constantin’s dexterity in combining a monopusher chronograph and tourbillon complication with a twist, thanks to its unconventional layout. Now considered a classic, Vacheron has inducted the Traditionnelle into its hall of fame to become a member of the Excellence Platine club. Crafted […]

Video – The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox with Panda Dial (incl. Video) Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Apr 10, 2024

Video – The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox with Panda Dial (incl. Video)

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox 39mm reference, drawing inspiration from the iconic 1960s model, the Heuer Carrera 7753 SN, introduces a universally beloved panda-style chronograph dial. This latest addition to the series is the first to offer a bracelet option, a significant departure from the previous strap-only models. The new TAG Heuer Carrera […]

Rolex Debuts the Perpetual 1908 in Platinum SJX Watches
Rolex Debuts Apr 10, 2024

Rolex Debuts the Perpetual 1908 in Platinum

Last year, Rolex made waves with its new dress watch collection, the Perpetual 1908. Initially comprising four references in yellow and white gold with silver and black dials, the 1908 now gains a new addition: the Perpetual 1908 (ref. 52506) in platinum. Continuing with the Rolex tradition of a dial colour unique to platinum models, the new 1908 features an ice blue dial finished with rice-grain guilloché that is traditionally applied with a rose engine. Initial thoughts The release of the 1908 was unexpected and marked a departure from the brand’s focus on sports watches. The models launched last year, however, were conservatively styled. The introduction of a guilloché dial, a first for the range, livens up the aesthetics of the 1908 while still retaining the overall design. The traditional engine-turning lends a three-dimensional effect to the dial, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. Additionally, it adds an artisanal touch to the model. The platinum ref. 52506 is priced at US$30,900, a sizeable increase over its yellow and white gold counterparts, but comparable to the pricing for other Rolex models, particularly with the addition of the guilloche dial. The Perpetual 1908 introduced last year in white gold (left) and yellow gold (right) “Rice-grain” guilloché The latest release showcases a striking ice blue dial adorned with an intricate guilloché “rice-grain” motif, achieved through the engraving technique of guillochage, whereby an engraver employs an eng...

First Look – The New The 38mm Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time-Only Collection Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time-Only Apr 10, 2024

First Look – The New The 38mm Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time-Only Collection

Following decades of Big Bang domination in extravagant, angular cases in all shapes and sizes, in 2020, Hublot introduced its first Big Bang with a fully integrated metal bracelet. Known as the Big Bang Integrated because of its integrated bracelet and materials, we’ve already seen 40mm cases with openworked dials, and time-and-date displays. Going back to […]

First Look – The Handsome New Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green in Lucent Steel Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green Apr 10, 2024

First Look – The Handsome New Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green in Lucent Steel

The Chopard L.U.C XPS series, renowned for its grace and technical beauty, is a top choice for dress watches. Among the latest additions to this collection, the L.U.C XPS Forest Green stands out with its captivating dark green sector-style dial and lustrous Lucent Steel case. Another demonstration of what quiet luxury means! The new Chopard […]

First Look – The New Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier has unveiled Apr 10, 2024

First Look – The New Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date

Putting jokes aside, Parmigiani Fleurier has unveiled a captivating addition to its Tonda PF Micro-Rotor collection: the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date. Featuring a Grain d’Orge Golden Siena dial devoid of a date function; this timepiece exudes a strikingly pure aesthetic bound to captivate enthusiasts. Measuring 40mm in diameter and 45.6mm lug-to-lug, with a thickness […]

Introducing – The Return of the Duometre, with the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon During Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – The Return of the Duometre, with the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon

During the 2024 edition of Watches & Wonders, Jaeger-LeCoultre welcomes back the Duometre, one of its most technical, high-end collections. Thanks to the development of the new calibre 391, the Duometre Chronograph Moon combines a high-precision chronograph with a celestial complication. Further evolutions regarding the case and dial mark this model as one of the […]

Montblanc Expands the Iced Sea Automatic Collection with Two New References Worn & Wound
Montblanc Expands Apr 10, 2024

Montblanc Expands the Iced Sea Automatic Collection with Two New References

The Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date collection, already notable for its unique glacial-inspired aesthetics, welcomes two new additions to its line-up: Bronze and Burgundy. Both models expand upon the Iced Sea collection to bring a moodier, more sophisticated look. The first of these, Bronze, marries a black glacier pattern dial with a bronze-tone case, a nod to the golden hues of dusk over frosty terrains. This reference stands out with its use of cupro aluminum for the case – a unique alloy that surpasses traditional bronze in resistance to wear and corrosion, promising durability while aging gracefully into a charming patina. It also introduces a bi-color unidirectional bezel, a new logo reflecting Montblanc’s heritage, and a titanium caseback adorned with a scuba diver motif, all complemented by a versatile black rubber strap with a brown accent. The Burgundy model, on the other hand, captures the deep reds of evening light on ice, paired with a black ceramic bezel. It comes with an interchangeable stainless-steel bracelet, ensuring a perfect fit for the wearer. Both models exhibit the meticulous craftsmanship Montblanc is known for, utilizing a special gratté-boisé technique for the dials to create an impression of depth and luminosity, while the casebacks feature detailed 3D engravings achieved through precise laser work. Each model’s case comes in at 41mm, accompanied by a sapphire crystal and equipped with an MB 24.17/SW200 automatic movement that promises...