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The 1990 Lange Revival A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne revived 7 December 1990, exactly 145 years after the 1845 founding. Walter Lange + Günter Blümlein; 1994 launch of Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integrated in a 38mm Case Worn & Wound
Hublot Introduces Apr 10, 2024

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integrated in a 38mm Case

Today, Hublot has announced not one, but six new versions of the Big Bang Integrated Time Only, and here’s the kicker - this time they’re 38mm. When the first Hublot watch was launched by Carlo Crocco all the way back in 1980, it stood out. Totally different from anything else on the market, it supposedly took Crocco and his team at MDM Watches three years to develop the rubber strap for the first Hublot. The juxtaposition of a high-end gold case and an integrated rubber strap defined that first watch and “The Art of Fusion” would become the signature of a brand defined by experimentation. It was in that spirit that Hublot released the first Big Bang on a bracelet in 2020 (just a few weeks before the pandemic, as it turned out). I remember the prevailing sentiment at the time being slight surprise that a braceleted Big Bang didn’t already exist and a bemused “okay” before everyone got very distracted by the world shutting down. That first 42mm Big Bang Integral Chronograph was followed up by a 40mm Big Bang Integral Time Only two years later. Those first two Integral models featured skeletonized sapphire dials and sporty red and black highlights. Like many large Hublot releases, they each felt decidedly masculine. Today’s new Big Bang Integrated Time Only releases are much more sedate, swapping sapphire skeleton dials for solid ones finished in somewhat more traditional polished blacks or sunray blues. With their more neutral designs and smaller case siz...

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces Apr 10, 2024

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black

Adding to the successful Monsieur collection, the Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Edition is essentially a new colour for an existing model, but nonetheless proves that Chanel is serious about watchmaking. Thoughtfully designed inside and out, the Intense Black adds racing-inspired cladding to one of the most intriguing watches from outside the establishment watchmakers. Initial thoughts Watches like the Monsieur serve as a reminder that good watches can come from unexpected places – even brands perceived to be “fashion” – and should be a wake-up call for those who think Chanel is just a maker of cosmetics and handbags. Technically competent and well designed, the Monsieur collection is a testament to the brand’s commitment to its watchmaking programme. Like the original Monsieur Superleggera launched in 2021, the Intense Black Edition features a 42 mm case made up of a steel inner case with a ceramic cladding, hence superleggera, which is Italian for “super light”. In this respect, the Superleggera benefits enormously from Chanel’s ownership of G&F; Châtelain, which one of just two Swiss suppliers of ceramic watch cases. Despite the Intense Black moniker, the watch is only slightly more black than the 2021 original, which had a few red accents. In fact, they are similar enough that the yellow “Superleggera” script on the dial might prove to be the easiest way to tell the two versions apart. Though the two versions are largely identical, it i...

Introducing: The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary Fratello
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary

Almost exactly two years ago, I covered the introduction of Piaget’s Tribute to the Altiplano Ultimate Concept. It was a “dark mode” version of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept that celebrated the watch’s fifth anniversary. The year 2024 marks another anniversary for Maison Piaget as it has been 150 years since Georges-Edouard Piaget opened up his first […] Visit Introducing: The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Bremont Terra Nova Collection of Field Watches Monochrome
Bremont Terra Nova Collection Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – The New Bremont Terra Nova Collection of Field Watches

With a passion for aeroplanes and watches, Bremont Watch Company was founded in 2007 by the English brothers Nick and Giles. Adventure is the overriding theme at Bremont, and its rugged tool watches are designed for airborne, seaborne and land exploration. The latest collection from Bremont’s Henley-on-Thames headquarters is the Terra Nova, debuting with four […]

First Look – Dune, Horizon, Obsidian… The New Colours of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph (Incl. Video) Monochrome
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Incl Video Apr 10, 2024

First Look – Dune, Horizon, Obsidian… The New Colours of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph (Incl. Video)

Chronographs made their way into the Portugieser family in 1995 with a sophisticated Valjoux-modified rattrapante (IW3712), followed by a classic chronograph, again with a modified Valjoux, in 1998 with the reference IW3714. And then, in 2020, IWC equipped it with a manufacture column-wheel chronograph movement to become the IW3716 (don’t miss our article comparing the […]

Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Passage De Drake Afterglow And Antarctique Green Meteor Fratello
Czapek Antarctique Passage De Drake Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Passage De Drake Afterglow And Antarctique Green Meteor

Only a few weeks have passed since Czapek introduced the Antarctique Mount Erebus Deep Blue models. Both of them presented a familiar aesthetic in precious metals. I love the Antarctique, and a yellow gold version made me fall in love with the watch all over again. For this year’s Watches and Wonders, the brand releases […] Visit Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Passage De Drake Afterglow And Antarctique Green Meteor to read the full article.

Introducing: The New Czapek Promenade Collection - A Minimalist Approach Defined By Interesting Details Fratello
Czapek Promenade Collection - Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: The New Czapek Promenade Collection - A Minimalist Approach Defined By Interesting Details

A small brand like Czapek does not release a new product line often. That’s why every new one is special. Czapek found inspiration within its portfolio for the new Promenade collection. It fuses influences from the Quai des Bergues and the Antarctique lines. The result is a new line of watches that combines many details […] Visit Introducing: The New Czapek Promenade Collection - A Minimalist Approach Defined By Interesting Details to read the full article.

Introducing – The Cartier Santos-Dumont Lacquered Returns in 3 New Colours Monochrome
Cartier Santos-Dumont Lacquered Returns Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – The Cartier Santos-Dumont Lacquered Returns in 3 New Colours

Cartier’s longstanding affair with the intrepid Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont shows no sign of abating. Santos-Dumont’s request to Louis Cartier to create a timepiece that would let him consult the time without taking his hands off the controls resulted in the men’s first wristwatch in 1904. Characterised by sleek geometric lines, Cartier’s Santos-Dumont model has […]

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Fratello
TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph

The TAG Heuer Monaco is an absolute fan favorite among racing enthusiasts and watch lovers alike. Since its inception in 1969, it has seen many iterations and versions, some basic, some fancy. Today, we see the introduction of two rather high-end versions of the Monaco. This is the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph. Let’s have a look! […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – The New Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture

The moon phase indicator and date combination is a flagship model at Frederique Constant, appearing with the launch of the brand’s second manufacture movement in 2005. Early models, like the Heart Beat Manufacture, were equipped with the brand’s hand-wound moon phase and date movement (FC-915). Evolving over the years and replacing the manual-winding movement with […]

Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models

At Watches and Wonders last year, TAG Heuer presented new Carrera models using a 39mm Glassbox case design. Many celebrated these watches due to their clean, classic looks and moderate size. Since then, more variants have entered the lineup, including a full-gold model and the return of the cult-classic Skipper. Now we have two new […] Visit Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models to read the full article.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 18K SJX Watches
Breitling Apr 10, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 18K

In a surprising move, Tudor is launching the Black Bay 58 18K (ref. 79018V-006) at Watches & Wonders 2024. Essentially the same watch as the 2021 model, the new 58 18K now sports a matching yellow-gold bracelet, whereas it was formerly only offered on a leather or fabric strap. The dial and the bezel remain in the same green colourway, with gilt markings that match the hue of the yellow-gold case and bracelet. The 39 mm case is complemented by an oversized crown embossed with the Tudor rose logo, while widely cut bevels on the lugs provide a pleasing contrast to the brushed finish of the case. Initial thoughts While the Black Bay 58 18K won’t have as much of a wide appeal as the Black Bay 58 GMT – simply as a matter of affordability – it is a perfect update for a model that looked incomplete on a strap. And the bracelet itself is noteworthy. I like fact that it does away with the fake rivets found on the steel models. The cleaner look feels more modern and functional. At US$32,100, the Black Bay 58 18K is far beyond the usual price range of Tudor, but arguably delivers a competitive value proposition as far as an all-gold diver’s watch goes. Granted, the price is not far off from the Rolex Submariner in gold, which retails for US$39,000, but relative to the competition (such as Omega and Breitling), it is perhaps the most competitive in its segment. All gold and no rivets The Black Bay 58 18K notably features a solid gold bracelet equipped with a “T-fit” clasp ...

First Look – The New, Ocean-Ready Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Monochrome
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Apr 10, 2024

First Look – The New, Ocean-Ready Zenith Defy Extreme Diver

In 1969, Zenith launched the Defy series, aiming to enhance its collection with robust and reliable timepieces tailored for specific purposes. Seeking to expand its Defy line with a watch capable of conquering ocean depths, the brand swiftly introduced the Defy Diver. Among its most iconic iterations was the A3648 reference, boasting an impressive water […]

Chopard Extends Its Collection With Two Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Models And The Skeletonized Titanium Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT Fratello
Chopard Extends Apr 10, 2024

Chopard Extends Its Collection With Two Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Models And The Skeletonized Titanium Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is one of my favorite releases of the past few years. The watch came out last year at Watches and Wonders and proved to be one of the show’s highlights. It’s spectacular salmon/copper dial shows the incredible potential of the watch. Not only is the color spectacular, but adding […] Visit Chopard Extends Its Collection With Two Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Models And The Skeletonized Titanium Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT to read the full article.

Meet The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph And Defy Extreme Diver Fratello
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Apr 10, 2024

Meet The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph And Defy Extreme Diver

Well, well, well… What do we have here? A proper dedicated dive watch in the Zenith lineup, that’s what! The Le Locle-based brand hasn’t made one of these for decades, but it seems the team has pulled out all the stops with the Defy Extreme Diver. Alongside it comes the new (although somewhat predictable) Defy […] Visit Meet The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph And Defy Extreme Diver to read the full article.

The Oris Aquis Date Collection Has Now Been Updated For 2024 Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oris Aquis Date Collection Has Apr 9, 2024

The Oris Aquis Date Collection Has Now Been Updated For 2024

Oris is one of those brands that we love to talk about here at TBWS, simply for the fact that the team always seems happy to just do their own thing. This year, instead of doing something big and flashy, Oris has moved to update their vast catalog of Oris Aquis Date models for 2024. It's a key collection and this kind of care ensures that the watches don't become stale, as Oris aims to put out the best that they possibly can. The Aquis is just a great, sturdy dive watch from an independent brand and these new models are available in 43.5mm, 41.5mm, and 36.5mm case sizes with a bunch of dial color options and a choice to go with the in-house Oris Caliber 400 on the 43.5mm version. Let's try to wrap our heads around this.

[VIDEO] Hands-on Impressions of the Beautifully Slender Grand Seiko SLGW002 and SLGW003 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SLGW002 Apr 9, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-on Impressions of the Beautifully Slender Grand Seiko SLGW002 and SLGW003

Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 series has, since its inception, been a collection that has veered toward the sporty. The outright sports models are commanding in their wrist presence for sure, but even the “standard” Evolution 9 watches have a robust quality to them that makes them ideal daily drivers. Now, for Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko has introduced an all new branch of the Evolution 9 collection with a pair of watches they have specifically identified as being in the dress category: the SLGW002 and SLGW003, featuring the all new manually wound 9SA4 caliber.  The cases, crafted in rose gold for the SLGW002 and Brilliant Hard Titanium for the SLGW003, measure 38.6mm in diameter and 9.95mm tall. The lines of the case recall other watches in the Evolution 9 collection (these watches still have a ton of wrist presence thanks a wide stance and clearly executed facets) but are more refined overall. Also, like other Evolution 9 cases, these wear as if the center of gravity is lower, and the watch plants satisfyingly on the wrist, and especially in titanium it feels very ergonomic.  The big news here though is the new movement that allows for such a sleek rendition of the Evolution 9 principles. The 9SA4 caliber is effectively a hand wound version of the 9SA5, Grand Seiko’s next generation high beat rate movement with their proprietary dual impulse escapement. But Grand Seiko has done more than simply strip the 9SA5 of its winding rotor. Much of the gear train has...