Hodinkee
Introducing: The Chopard L.U.C Quattro, A Fresh Look With The Same Nine-Day Power Reserve
Representing a quarter-century of nine-day innovation, the L.U.C Quattro is updated for Chopard's latest design language.
966 articles · 2 videos found · page 4 of 33
Nomos upgrades the Metro Date Power Reserve with a new caliber and adds a cool new dial color to one of its most complete watches
How long a fully wound mechanical watch runs; 40h entry, 72h modern, 50d record.
Longines refreshes one of its most quietly interesting re-editions with a light blue opaline dial. Still 38mm, still the same central power-reserve rotating disc, still the silicon-hairspring L896.5. €3,950 on strap, €4,050 on bracelet.
The beloved Pandial chronograph gets its darkest treatment yet, and only 33 examples exist.
Hodinkee
Representing a quarter-century of nine-day innovation, the L.U.C Quattro is updated for Chopard's latest design language.
Monochrome
There’s a certain tyre manufacturer from Italy that claims “Power is nothing without Control”, and to an extent, that is very true about mechanical watches as well. Sure, you can have the most beautifully constructed watch, but if you don’t harness the energy that’s generated by winding it properly, it’s useless. Luckily, we’ve figured out […]
Monochrome
I’m very fortunate (and spoilt, in a way) to handle hundreds of watches every year working for MONOCHROME Watches. To the point that I almost have to admit it’s not that easy to be impressed anymore, but it does happen from time to time. Of course, it’s not that difficult to be amazed by very […]
Hodinkee
A faithful reimagining of a 1959 heritage design, outfitted in a throughly modern color palette of warm grey and rose gold.
Revolution
Revolution
Hodinkee
It's not just the movement that's been tweaked; the case has a new sleeker profile as well.
Hodinkee
It's a lot of bang for your buck in a solid package – just what we've come to expect from Frederique Constant.
Revolution
Hodinkee
That's 192 hours, or 11,520 minutes, or 691,200 seconds.
Hodinkee
A new watch may offer a bigger number, but what does it mean for the way you wear your watch?
Hodinkee
115 hours limited to 100 pieces.
[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]The tourbillon is one of the many marvels of horological masterwork, an answer to a problem faced when a timepiece would spend much of its time in a pocket and...
Revolution
Revolution
During the last couple of years, Baume & Mercier has been concentrating its watchmaking efforts on reaching a younger clientele. Marketing strategies were revisited and collections were revamped to reach a younger market while always remaining true to the brand’s mission of providing stunning, high-quality and luxurious Swiss wristwatches at affordable price points. This strategy […]
Worn & Wound
Our story starts back in 2014 on the year of Oris’ milestone 110th anniversary. For the occasion, the brand unveiled its first proprietary in-house movement in 35 years, featuring a manual-wind 10-day power reserve and a non-linear power reserve indicator. This movement was aptly named the Caliber 110. A year later, Oris presented the next evolution with the Caliber 111 in the Big Crown ProPilot lineup. The new movement added a dedicated date window at 9 o’clock alongside the signature airplane fuel gauge-style non-linear power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. The model’s technical prowess caught the attention of the industry and went on to receive a coveted GPHG nomination that year.Over the past decade, we have seen only a select few iterations on the original, namely new dial colorways. Now, we get a brand new redesign with the latest incarnation. This follows in the footsteps of the brand’s redesign of the ProPilot Date, which brought a series of design updates including an organic dial texture inspired by nature, subtle evolutions to the applied numerals and lume-tipped hands to enhance legibility, and improvements to the ergonomics of the folding ‘LIFT’ clasp (one of the ProPilot’s signature elements). It also introduced an inventive seamless fit strap adjustment system. Let’s get into the specific upgrades that translate to the new ProPilot Caliber 111. Front and center we have a new dial application with fresh finishes. The details are more visible...
Monochrome
Frederique Constant is known to make traditionally expensive watchmaking complications more accessible. Its Manufacture Perpetual Calendar, first introduced in 2016, was a QP priced well below that of many established competitors. In 2025, the watch received an update: a more refined 40mm case and a revised movement, with a power reserve extended to 72 hours. […]
SJX Watches
The Ressence Type 10 DN pairs the brand’s proprietary base calibre with its oil-filled display module for the first time. The organically shaped case is a natural evolution of Ressence’s minimalist style, finished in dark blue DLC-coated titanium for this 100-piece debut. The new movement brings a practical benefit, extending the power reserve from 36 to 60 hours compared with its ETA-powered oil-filled siblings. Initial thoughts Ressence debuted its first proprietary base calibre earlier this year in the Type 11, and it was only a matter of time before the Belgian independent paired this platform with its signature oil-filled display module. We didn’t have to wait long, which suggests the industrialisation of the new movement is progressing well. Inspiration for the Type 10’s organic shape came from founder Benoît Mintiens’ curiosity about what a watch would look like if shaped by the laws of nature. The result is an organic form that smoothly integrates the lines of the crystal into the case, with scalloped lugs meeting a colour-matched rubber strap. The case surfaces meet along one of its few sharp edges, while the absence of a conventional crown preserves the symmetry. Like other Ressence watches, the Type 10 is set and wound via the case back ring. The case is made of polished Grade 5 titanium with a DLC coating in a shade Ressence calls “Dark Night” — a rich navy that continues across the dial, which has been simplified beyond the brand’s typical m...
Fratello
Oris revives one of its most distinctive in-house movements with the return of the ProPilot Calibre 111. More than a decade has passed since the 2015 launch of the original Big Crown ProPilot Calibre 111, powered by a manually wound movement boasting an impressive 10-day power reserve. That watch followed the release of the Oris’s […] Visit The Oris ProPilot Calibre 111 Returns More Than A Decade After Its Introduction to read the full article.
Hodinkee
What We Know Oris is going through its catalog and doing some subtle and meaningful updates to the ProPilot lineup. On the heels of a ProPilot Date update last year, the higher-tier ProPilot Calibre 111 is getting similar tweaks that take a very solid watch and make it a bit more refined. In fact, if you compare it to the old, outgoing 44mm version, the refreshed look really does stand out despite the relative subtlety. The new stainless steel case is slimmed down and sharpened up, down from 44mm to 43mm and down from around 14mm (actually 13.85mm) to 13.2mm; there are improvements in sizing, which is impressive for a watch with a 10-day power reserve. The date window has been moved to the 6 o'clock position for better balance, and the new finishing for the black or pine green dial combines a main vertically brushed surface with a textured, pebbled graining in the subdials and minute track. The Calibre 111 movement is visible through the display caseback, while the watch maintains a 100m water resistance all the same. You can see that massive barrel required for the 240-hour power reserve and what looks to be a nice level of finishing for the price point. The angled fluting on the bezel carries over to the caseback ring as well, which adds a balanced touch. And while you can still get the watch on a choice of leather strap or stainless steel bracelet, the 'LIFT' clasp and seamless fit strap adjustment system make either choice a solid one. Since this is more of a powerhous...
Hodinkee
What We Know A few weeks ago I got an unexpected invite from Pierre Biver to see the brand's newest watch. Despite any ideas I might have had in my mind, Biver's new watch—just called the "AB"—was not what I expected. Instead of a new, complicated, potentially larger piece, the AB is a response to customer demand, says Biver (the person, not the brand, but kind of the person and the brand in one). After their Automatique was a runaway success in its various forms over the past two years, they resisted the urge to put the proprietary movement in a stainless steel case (as highly requested). Instead, today, they're launching a manually-wound, proprietary new movement with over 100 hours of power reserve, in a smaller steel case and moving the brand forward. The watch measures 38mm by 9.8mm thick, with a 19mm lug width. The case maintains the general hallmarks of Biver's cases, with brushed and polished geometric angular lugs—reminiscent of a Patek 3448 or 3450—but with tweaks to the bezel to change how it looks on the wrist. The dial is a multi-level gold dial, with a grained central texture, 2N gold metallicized indices, chamfered levels, gold hands with hand-finished facets, and an onyx stone-dial ring for the hour and minute track. The watch also comes with Biver's striking, angular bracelet, which now comes with a patented micro-adjust activated by two push buttons. Photo by Mark Kauzlarich. The caliber JCB-004 is developed in collaboration with Le Cercle des Hor...
Time+Tide
The GPHG-nominated Christopher Ward C1 Loco Classic features a six-day power reserve, exposed escapement, and beautifully traditional design.
Hodinkee
What We Know We are six years into the reign of the Legacy Machine EVO, a sportier version of MB&F;'s most "traditional" (and I use that term loosely) watch designs, which had the added benefit of higher water resistance, a built-in FlexRing shock protection system, slightly less delicate dials, and a different case design that lends itself to the rubber straps. We've had the Perpetual EVO, Sequential EVO, Sequential Flyback EVO, Split Escapement EVO, and LM101 EVO. Now, the original Legacy Machine, the LM No. 1, joins the collection with two case materials: titanium and a limited-edition rose gold. It seems like case sizes are the most hotly debated topic these days, and MB&F; has never shied away from a large case. It's needed to accomplish the dramatic design and depth of the floating balance that hovers over the dual time display (now in sunburst-polished black, flat subdials). The cases are 42mm by 16.8mm, with a 52mm lug-to-lug and 18mm lug width. This brings one major update to the EVO series: these watches now have quick-change rubber straps, made possible by a case redesign (so this won't apply to swapping into other EVO series models). Another update: the original's vertically moving power reserve indicator is now more traditional, rotating side to side and pointing at an inclined scale. One of my favorite things about the Legacy Machine is that it's so wild in the front and more traditional in the back. The movement is still the Jean-François Mogard-designed cali...
Hodinkee
This story has been republished from our friends at Hodinkee Australia. What We Know Under the stewardship of CEO Davide Cerrato, we’ve seen a revitalised Bremont experiment with all sorts of things—jumping hours pieces, meteorite dials, space watches—as well as ceramic cases, especially for its Supermarine dive watch. In 2024, they launched their first full-ceramic watch, the Supermarine 500 Black Ceramic, following up with a Jungle Green ceramic limited edition built to take on the tropics. Now, the British brand has debuted a Deep Blue ceramic Supermarine 500 that’s ready for the depths. While this new colored ceramic Supermarine is a follow-up to the Jungle Green, quite a lot has changed in the Supermarine lineup since its launch, including an upgraded movement with an improved power reserve. It also now sports a wave pattern on the dial rendered in black, which provides good contrast against the white Super-LumiNova (with blue emission), and brings some added texture and depth to the dial. The blue ceramic case measures the same dimensions as the rest of the Supermarine 500 lineup at 43mm across with a thickness of 13mm. It’s rated to 500 meters and also features a helium escape valve on the left side of the case that’s finished in a color-matched blue. The bezel insert is ceramic - it's laser-engraved with embossed numerals - yet both the bezel ring and the crown are titanium, not that you'd immediately clock it. Bremont has nailed the color-matching acro...
Hodinkee
What We Know For all the conversations about what to do when a dial is damaged, possibly fit for restoration, or a watch needs some repair, I don't recall many examples of watches with dials that come pre-repaired. That's essentially what Arsène Lippens has launched: a watch inspired by the Japanese craft of Sashiko, which artfully patches and repairs textiles (largely denim) to extend their lives and turn them into something beautiful. In collaboration with Pey van der Wel, a Dutch artist who runs SASHIKODENIM, the brand's new limited edition of 10 pieces is the second in its "Threads of Time" series celebrating textile crafts. The watch is a relatively straightforward release as an entire package: a 37.5mm by 9.9mm 316L stainless steel case housing a manually wound Sellita SW210-1b movement with a 48-hour power reserve. The case is water-resistant to 50 meters, with a solid caseback and a box dome anti-reflective crystal on the front side. The thickness largely comes from the depth required for the dial, which is the star of the show. The dial is made of denim, with 12 individual hour markers hand-stitched one thread wide through the dial, with a cross-hatch at 3, 6, 9, and 12. Of course, none of these dials are the same, and you could argue that some, including the one shown here, might not be perfectly aligned to the hour marker. But so be it. The watch celebrates a centuries-old handcraft and its beautifully imperfect nature. Of course, the watch comes with a denim s...
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Challenging conventions is part of NORQAIN's DNA. For CEO Ben Küffer, that aim to "redefine what a Swiss mechanical sports watch could be" has been instrumental to the brand's success. For its latest release, the family-owned Swiss brand announced three new models in a first for the brand: grade 5 titanium. The Wild ONE Skeleton Titanium 39mm and 42mm reimagine the brand's signature sports watch, incorporating grade 5 titanium into the watch's top plate with the bottom retaining NORQAIN's signature NORTEQ carbon-fiber-composite.The result is a rich visual contrast and lightweight construction. "Titanium certainly has a future within NORQAIN," Küffer says, "but only where it adds something meaningful to the design and performance of the watch." Each possesses a distinct identity, with the 39mm—limited to 400 pieces—opting for a grey palette based on titanium's muted character, featuring light yellow dial accents and Super-LumiNova for technical performance and legibility. The 42mm, by contrast, opts for a slightly bolder coloring with mint green details for a bolder visual presence. Both are powered by the skeletonized in-house NK26/1 automatic movement, a COSC-certified chronometer with a 65-hour power reserve. The star of the new collection, however, is the all-new Wild ONE Meteorite Titanium 42mm. The Meteorite takes the brand's flagship watch and incorporates Grade 5 titanium and an anthracite iron meteorite dial, combining contemporary high-tech design with ancie...
Worn & Wound
Earlier this year, I got a whole new appreciation for the Nomos Metro after sitting down with its creator, Mark Braun. The collection first came into the Nomos catalog back in 2014 and debuted the brand’s proprietary swing escapement system, which was developed over seven years with the Fraunhofer Institute and TU Dresden. Form was equally important to function in the original design, featuring a galvanized and silver-plated dial with a soft white color punctuated by black, red, and green markings in an arrangement that subtly played with asymmetry. Over the past 12 years, the Metro has gone on to take many other forms – some ditching the asymmetry by removing the power reserve indicator and shifting the Nomos logo to 12 o’clock and others ditching the white dial for full color alongside versions in rose gold as well as special editions for select markets. Today, we get the next evolution with the Metro Date Power Reserve Ice Blue. True to the collection’s DNA, this new incarnation offers new details both aesthetic and technical, including a brand-new mechanical caliber.With the latest addition to the Metro lineup, we see Nomos continue to use this collection as a launch point for new technical advancements. It marks the first model in the Nomos catalog to house the new hand-wound caliber DUW 4701, which offers a patented quick-set date and a power reserve of up to 52 hours. This entirely new movement continues the story of mechanical innovation that began with the...
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What We Know Last year, Glashütte Original released a trio of porcelain-dial watches as part of its collaboration with Meissen, Europe's oldest porcelain manufacturer, dating back to 1710. Today, the two historic German houses are partnering again, this time to release a new porcelain-dial watch inspired by Jugatsu-zakura, a Japanese cherry blossom that flowers intermittently during the colder months. The "Cherry Blossom" Senator Meissen retains all of the original collaboration's specs: It measures 40mm wide and 10.2mm thick, is set in red gold, and features an exhibition sapphire crystal caseback. It also comes on a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap with a red-gold pin buckle. The dial is made of a thin slice of white porcelain that acts as a canvas for the hand-painted layers, which are fired at 900° Celsius between each layer to achieve maximum depth and intensity. Glashütte Original's lettering and Meissen's crossed swords logo are hand-painted near the center, but besides that, the dial has a blank format. The exclusion of any hour markers, numerals, or indices allows the cherry blossom motif, with its slender branches that extend upward and delicate, pale-pink flowers, to shine—punctuated only by solid-gold hour and minute hands. Powered by Glashütte Original's in-house automatic Caliber 36-16, the watch offers 100 hours of power reserve and operates at 4 Hz. The movement also features a silicon balance spring and a stop-seconds mechanism. (aka hacki...
Worn & Wound
When the Tudor North Flag came out in 2015, it was met with a collective “what?” Tudor had chosen it to debut its in-house movements, a genuinely big moment for the brand. But the watch itself was a totally unexpected throwback to the fairly obscure Ranger II, an integrated bracelet sports watch from the ’70s that I don’t think anyone expected to see revived. It was interesting, though. The North Flag had a design language entirely separate from the Black Bay and Pelagos lines, plus a hybrid steel-and-ceramic bezel, a display caseback, and a power reserve. That last feature is still the only time Tudor has used a power reserve on one of its modern movements. The reaction was mixed. Tudor was arguably too far ahead of the curve: integrated bracelet sports watches weren’t trending; vintage divers were. Six years later, the North Flag was discontinued. In the meantime, integrated bracelet sports watches didn’t just become popular; they became almost a requirement. It feels like every brand has released one in the last five years, at prices ranging from a couple hundred dollars to a couple hundred thousand. People now look back at the original North Flag and think, “Oh, wait a second. Maybe that was a pretty cool watch after all.” So while the first North Flag was ahead of the curve, the new Northflag is right on time, or maybe even a touch late. It’s also a GMT, though you won’t find “GMT” in the name. The question is whether Tudor has made a better wa...
Deployant
Grönefeld's 1941 Quadrivium puts a 7.5-second remontoire, flying tourbillon, jumping seconds and power reserve in an 11.3mm case. S$473,100 in tantalum.
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