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Eric Giroud

Architect-trained Geneva designer behind MB&F\'s entire HM and LM series, plus Bovet, Manufacture Royale, Greubel Forsey commissions.
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Most Complicated Wristwatch, Ever Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Apr 15, 2025

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Most Complicated Wristwatch, Ever

If you were to sit me down at a desk and ask me to write down 41 watch complications off the top of my head, I think the result would be rather like Ross Geller trying to name the 50 states in that one episode of Friends. There’s just no way I could do it. Forty-one is an absurd number of complications to even conceive of, let alone cram into one surprisingly wearable watch. And yet, that is what Vacheron Constantin’s one-of-a-kind watchmaking department, Les Cabinotiers, has managed to do. Just about a year after introducing the world’s most complicated watch of any kind - a pocket watch containing 63 complications - Vacheron has unveiled the Les Cabinotiers ‘Solaria Ultra Grand Complication.’ It’s hard to know where to start with a watch like this, especially since I haven’t had the opportunity to see it in person, so to begin, I’ll just say this: I am wildly impressed by this watch, and you should be too. It’s a serious step up from their previous most complicated wristwatch - the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, which housed 23 complications. It’s worth saying here that, even before getting to the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, Vacheron Constantin had a very good Watches & Wonders. The brand is celebrating its 270th anniversary this year and they’ve done a hell of a job with it. Their new 127-piece limited edition Traditionelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, with its novel movement and ann...

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Notes From a Very Busy Day at Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Cartier Apr 15, 2025

Notes From a Very Busy Day at Watches & Wonders

Wednesday April 2, 2025 5:30 AM: 9Hotel Paquis  I’m awake for day two of Watches & Wonders an hour before my (first) alarm, which was probably an hour earlier than it needed to be anyway. Am I refreshed? I am not. My internal clock is still on east coast time, which means if I were back home I’d be settling in on the couch getting ready to stream some movie that I’ve seen a million times and am comfortable falling asleep to. Maybe Prometheus, a favorite among members of the watch media for reasons I can’t quite articulate.   8:30 AM: the shuttle to Palexpo We are at a new hotel this year deeper into the red light district which is the second or third stop on the shuttle line. By the time the shuttle gets to us, it’s quite crowded, standing room only. A shorter trip though, which is welcome.  I always find myself wondering who these people on the shuttle are. The answer, almost certainly, is that they are retailers. Retailers are everywhere – they outnumber media by a significant percentage. Watches & Wonders is an important business event for retailers, hence the suits. European retailers are almost always wearing Cartier. American retailers are almost always wearing those sneakers that look like dress shoes.  A note on shuttle etiquette: when you board a crowded shuttle, move as deep into the center as possible. Don’t stand by the door – it makes it more difficult for people to board at the next stop. 9:30 AM: Palexpo I’m at a table in a section of ...

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First Impressions of the New A. Lange & Söhne Novelties Worn & Wound
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 9, 2025

First Impressions of the New A. Lange & Söhne Novelties

A. Lange & Söhne never does half-measures, especially at Watches & Wonders. For 2025, they announced three new models, but a total of four watches: the Saxonia Minute Repeater Perpetual, the Honey Gold Odysseus, and the 1815 in 34mm in rose and white gold. So, one super complicated piece with a ton of features. One rare piece in an exceptional presentation. And two sublimely proportioned everyday watches (in ALS terms). While all were exceptional, the latter of the three left the biggest impression, despite being the smallest in stature.  With a name like Minute Repeater Perpetual, there’s not much mystery about what this watch does, but in true Lange fashion, it’s the elegance with which it does it that’s so special. And, naturally, we have to start with movement. The new caliber L122.2 consists of 640 parts and is meticulously finished to the standards one expects from Lange. In somewhat of a departure from their norm, the untreated Glashütte ¾ plate features a frosted finish instead of Glashütte ribbing. Though the result might appear more straightforward, we were told it makes assembly more complicated, and the resulting even surface puts more attention on the governor, black polished hammers, and encircling gongs, not to mention the free-hand engraved balance cock. It does not just look impressive, however, as there are some clever mechanical tricks at play, too, namely regarding the repeater. The typical sequence of chimes includes first single chimes per ...

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Hands-On Impressions of the New Watches from Bremont Worn & Wound
Bremont It’s not Apr 8, 2025

Hands-On Impressions of the New Watches from Bremont

It’s not an exaggeration to say that my meeting with Bremont at this year’s Watches & Wonders was among my most anticipated. For better or worse (probably worse, if you survey watch industry vets, media types, and longtime enthusiasts) Bremont’s output dominated much of the conversation during and after last year’s event. It was the brand’s first Watches & Wonders, and the public unveiling of an entirely new look for the brand. As I’m sure many readers will remember, it did not go over particularly well. But 2025 is a new year, and a new opportunity for Bremont to crystallize in the mind of observers what this new era will be about. Because, to be sure, it will not be like “old” Bremont. That ship has sailed, and while some of the watches introduced this year are in direct conversation with Bremont classics, they are still distinctly their own thing. That’s not a judgement, but it’s the reason why some Bremont loyalists will continue to dismiss the new novelties, even if from a bird’s eye view they appear that they might be a return to form. By the same token, someone like me, who was never really a hardcore Bremont enthusiast to begin with, might see silver linings and positive steps forward for the brand.  This is perhaps a longwinded way of saying that Bremont’s output at Watches & Wonders this year was a mixed bag, but a big improvement over last year. More importantly, regardless of whether you like the watches they debuted at the show, the vi...

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Omega Unveils Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer SJX Watches
Omega Unveils Seamaster Planet Ocean Apr 6, 2025

Omega Unveils Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer

Omega’s latest is an unusual combination of a 600 m-rated dive watch with a Cottier-style world time. The Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer shares the oversized ceramic case of the Planet Ocean Deep Black, but is the first model in the collection to incorporate a world time complication. Initial thoughts While the Worldtimer makes a bold statement, a US$14,800 price tag and substantial case dimensions may limit its appeal – particularly for those with average-sized wrists. Still, it offers a somewhat paradoxical and oddly specific combination of features, so someone seeking a world time watch ready for saturation diving, there are few other options. Of the two available colourways, I would choose the low-key grey edition for its greater versatility compared to the turquoise version. Worldtimer Offered with either turquoise or grey accents, the new Planet Ocean is housed in a black ceramic case measuring 45.5 mm in diameter and 17.4 mm in thickness. Signature Seamaster case elements, including twisted lyre lugs, a helium escape valve, and “Broad Arrow” hands, complete the design. The standout feature the world time complication with a cities disc and 24-hour ring. At the centre is a titanium disc displaying a view of the Earth from the North Pole, with continents and colours rendered with varnish and laser engraving. A 24-hour ring in transparent hesalite is shaded in black and white to denote night and day. The chapter ring for the hours is embellished with a honey...

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First Look – The New IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 Monochrome
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 IWC’s Apr 3, 2025

First Look – The New IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35

IWC’s Ingenieur collection has been slated for growth this year, welcoming new sizes, materials, and complications. Representing the most compact member of the family to date, the new 35mm Ingenieur is a smart move to conquer more wrist sizes in the ever-expanding unisex sector. Presented in three variants, the smallest descendants of Gérald Genta’s design […]

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Hublot’s MECA-10 Movement Gets the Sapphire Case Treatment in this Big Bang Anniversary Set Worn & Wound
Hublot s MECA-10 Movement Gets Apr 3, 2025

Hublot’s MECA-10 Movement Gets the Sapphire Case Treatment in this Big Bang Anniversary Set

It’s the year of the Big Bang, and Hublot is marking the occasion with, among other things, a new set of transparent watches, aptly named the Big Bang 20th Anniversary “Master of Sapphire” Set. Now, I know that name may be a lot to work through, but the gist is this: Hublot has taken their impressive MECA-10 movement and - for the first time - cased it in sapphire five times over. Well, sapphire or SAXEM. The “Master of Sapphire” set puts Hublot’s mastery of transparent case materials on full display and includes five versions of the Big Bang MECA-10; one each in transparent sapphire, Water Blue sapphire, Deep Blue sapphire, purple sapphire, and neon yellow SAXEM (a synthetic sapphire material developed by Hublot). Plenty of Hublot fans have been waiting for the brand to introduce the MECA-10 movement - with its unique architecture and 10-day power reserve - to a sapphire case, and the results speak for themselves. It’s worth noting that the MECA-10 movement found here is the original HUB1201, rather than the new HUB1205 which was introduced earlier this year in the 42mm Big Bang MECA-10 and offered some small improvements to the design. Still, the OG MECA-10 is nothing to sneeze at, and the combination seen here is a good sign of things to come. Each of the five watches in this set is, besides the color, identical, with a 44mm case, and a color-matched silicone strap. Each is also marked as an anniversary watch with a ‘20 Years’ engraving on th...

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NORQAIN Introduces New Smaller Versions of the Wild ONE Worn & Wound
Norqain Introduces New Smaller Versions Apr 3, 2025

NORQAIN Introduces New Smaller Versions of the Wild ONE

Now, with a watch called Wild ONE, you may think this introduction is going to reference the hit 2011 song by Flo Rida, featuring Sia. But, unfortunately, there is very little connection between that chart-topper and NORQAIN’s latest 39mm references. That song is cheesy, loud, and awful. These watches, on the other hand, are vibrant, sporty, and unique.  In fact, “unique” might be the best descriptor for this new Wild ONE Skeleton 39mm line-up of watches, which is a slightly diminutive version of their signature Wild ONE collection. Made to be smaller and in pastel-colored hues, it’s the perfect addition to the rugged line-up and opens the doors for both genders to enjoy the craftsmanship of this Swiss brand. Like the original Wild ONE, the Skeleton 39mm is crafted from high-tech materials, such as NORQAIN’s proprietary carbon material called NORTEQ, for those who crave a little bit of adventure. The NORTEQ makes this watch ultra-light (clocking in at just 64 grams) while being durable enough to wear, oh I don’t know, mountain climbing or diving or whatever it is athletic people like to do. For the Hyper Pink, Sky Blue, and Purple Ice Blue references, each is powered by a NORQAIN Caliber N08S, a skeletonized, chronometer-certified automatic movement with 41 hours of power reserve. The Mint style, on the other hand, is a limited-edition of just 400 pieces and is powered by a NB08S Black movement, finished in black ruthenium and also promising up to 41 hours of ...

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Introducing – The New Sellita-Powered Oris Big Crown Pointer Date with Colourful Dials Monochrome
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Apr 3, 2025

Introducing – The New Sellita-Powered Oris Big Crown Pointer Date with Colourful Dials

Alongside the green and terracotta Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 housed in a 40mm case with a sleek, polished bezel instead of the classic coin-edge design, Oris also introduces a trio of new, simpler versions of its emblematic watch. And while these lack the high-performance Calibre 403 movement and replace it with a Sellita […]

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Introducing: The Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 Fratello
Grand Seiko Kiri” SBGW323 Grand Seiko Apr 3, 2025

Introducing: The Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323

Grand Seiko introduced a wide variety of novelties at Watches and Wonders this year. The new U.F.A. models are, without a doubt, the most important ones. However, a humble highlight that also stands out for us is the new Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323. This new addition to the Heritage collection combines a modestly sized 36.5mm 44GS-style […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 to read the full article.

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The New Tudor Pelagos Ultra Dives Deeper Than Ever Before Fratello
Tudor Pelagos Ultra Dives Deeper Apr 1, 2025

The New Tudor Pelagos Ultra Dives Deeper Than Ever Before

Tudor takes its dive watches rather seriously, and the new Tudor Pelagos Ultra is about as serious as they come. The brand has been making divers since 1954. Back then, the deepest-diving model had a humble 100m water resistance rating. Since then, the brand has kept busy evolving, looking to improve its formula. That quest […] Visit The New Tudor Pelagos Ultra Dives Deeper Than Ever Before to read the full article.

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Nomos Introduces the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer SJX Watches
Nomos Introduces Apr 1, 2025

Nomos Introduces the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer

Known for good looks and good value, Nomos has just introduced a new version of its popular dual-time complication, the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer. Thanks in part to the new DUW 3202 automatic movement, the Worldtimer offers a rare combination of functionality, robustness, and slimness. Available in two colourways, dark blue or silver, the latter with a ‘Pepsi’ home time scale, the Worldtimer comes on a stainless steel bracelet and is rated to 100 m, making it quite versatile. Initial thoughts I have a soft spot for Nomos, and I like the brand’s unique approach to making sporty watches. Instead of going after the usual macho design cues like dive bezels and tachymeters, the brand has instead taken its signature Bauhaus-inspired design and just bulked it up a bit. This approach resulted in the Club Sport collection, and I was immediately intrigued to see this line-up expand to include the Worldtimer. Key to the Worldtimer’s appeal are its dimensions, which measure a compact 40 mm by 9.9 mm. That makes it quite thin for a dual-time watch, but despite its slim form it still manages a full 100 m of water resistance. And for added security, the crown features a red anodised ring to alert the owner when the crown has been left unscrewed. The stainless steel case is paired with a simple three-link bracelet that is quite bland and probably the weakest element of the design. The dial features a central disc with a sunray finish in either silver or dark blue, surrounded...

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Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces Apr 1, 2025

Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca

It’s no secret that I really like Parmigiani Fleurier. The brand’s watches are an incredible expression of an ethos of modern watchmaking that many brands seem to aspire to but which few manage to achieve. The last few years have seen Parmigiani Fleurier really hone in on the core of their collection, stripping away many of the extraneous models in their catalog, and focusing instead on producing solid, consistent, and identifiably ‘Parmigiani’ watches. Of those, possibly my favorite has been the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, a unique take on the idea of a travel watch, and one that immediately caught enthusiast’s attention when it was introduced three years ago. Now, Parmigiani Fleurier is introducing the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca, the first new take on the GMT Rattrapante since its introduction in 2022, and an excellent one at that. The headline here is that Parmigiani has swapped the blue dial of the original steel release for a wonderful green hue they’re calling Verzasca. The blue-green color is inspired by the water found in Val Verzasca, but while the reference may be specific, the color will be familiar to anyone who has spent time near any number of bodies of water. To me, it reminds me of the deep water off the coast of Maine. Regardless of your point of reference, one thing that’s certain is that the color works. Like the earlier releases in this line, the stainless steel case of the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca measures a very reasonable...

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The Hublot Big Bang is Twenty Years Old – Here are the Anniversary Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Cartier Apr 1, 2025

The Hublot Big Bang is Twenty Years Old – Here are the Anniversary Limited Editions

I’m not sure I can name a more divisive watch on the planet than the Hublot Big Bang. Truly, you either love ‘em or hate ‘em, and there’s just no getting around it. Personally, I love ‘em. They’re big, dumb (in the best way), wildly fun, and totally unapologetic in a way few other watches are or even aspire to be. They’re also twenty years old, and Hublot knows that’s worth celebrating. Over the last two decades, the Hublot Big Bang has found itself all over the place, from the wrists of White Lotus Resort guests in Thailand (could there be a more perfect choice for Saxon Ratliff?) to the oversized clocks held up on the sidelines of the World Cup and everywhere in between. Genuinely, if I had to guess, I’ve probably seen more Hublot Big Bangs in the wild over the last two decades than just about any luxury watch besides Rolex, Omega, or Cartier. Of course, the Big Bang has actually seen a fair amount of evolution in the twenty years since its introduction, with the Big Bang Unico sitting at the fore these days. Still, an anniversary like this one is an opportunity to look back, and Hublot is doing just that, blending the look of the Big Bang Unico and Big Bang Original into a series of five special anniversary edition watches. This apt fusion (after all, fusion is what Hublot is all about) takes inspiration from the whole history of the Big Bang and synthesizes it all into this: the Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary. What the five models have in common are...

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Frederique Constant Introduces a Revamped Classic Perpetual Calendar Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Introduces Apr 1, 2025

Frederique Constant Introduces a Revamped Classic Perpetual Calendar

Frederique Constant proved that a perpetual calendar watch could be priced within reach of the general market with the release of their original Classic Perpetual Manufacture back in 2016. Nine years later, the Geneva-based brand’s redesigned and refined new Classic Perpetual looks to continue that tradition.  Housed in a steel 40mm case that sports slimmer lugs and softer angles than previous models, the new Classic promises elegance and functionality in equal measure. The salmon “sunray” dial and silver diamond-cut indexes ooze cocktail party elegance, but keep the color scheme in check in order to draw full and worthy attention to the complications: a date counter at 3 o’clock, moonphase at 6, weekday counter at 9, and month and leap year counter at 12, all of which are stepped to add dimension to the dial. A discreet sector dial minute track runs the perimeter for a touch of vintage flair, while the Frederique Constant signature sits below the moonphase window at the 6 position. None of these features will be a surprise for seasoned calendar collectors, of course, but the combination of the salmon dial, silver dauphine hands and indexes, and subtly reshaped Classic case will draw appreciation from those in the market for a dress watch that punches above its price point. The included dark brown alligator leather strap adds another point of class to the Classic, as does the onion-style crown-this is a watch to be worn while toasting a great achievement in the ...

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Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding 270th Anniversary SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding 270th A... Apr 1, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding 270th Anniversary

Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th birthday in style with a clever limited edition of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding featuring a unique dial pattern that depicts the brand’s emblematic Maltese Cross. In total, 740 pieces will be made, with production split evenly between the platinum and 18k rose gold editions. Initial thoughts The 38 mm Traditionnelle has long been a staple (and fan favourite) within the Vacheron Constantin (VC) catalogue. Over the years we’ve seen numerous limited editions for specific boutiques and the brand has even made one-off pieces for its best customers. So it makes sense that VC would return to this watch as part of its milestone 270th birthday. On paper, the anniversary edition is classic Traditionnelle, featuring the model’s goldilocks proportions of 38 mm by 7.77 mm. One of my favourite characteristics of this watch, and the Traditionnelle collection more broadly, is VC’s unique take on the Dauphine-style hands, which are divided along their length into polished and frosted sections. This touch catches the light in a truly special way, and brings a great deal of life to the dial. The Traditionnelle is powered by the well-known cal. 4400, but it’s dressed up with special ‘côte unique’ finishing for this anniversary edition. It’s an interesting choice, being more muted in its appearance than typical Genevois finishing. The only other difference between the anniversary Traditionnelle and the regular production models is...

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First Look – The new IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Ceramic (Incl. Video) Monochrome
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Apr 1, 2025

First Look – The new IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Ceramic (Incl. Video)

IWC staged the much-anticipated return of its Ingenieur in 2023, an iconic reference designed by the late Gérald Genta. Recovering genetic traits of Genta’s famous 1976 Ingenieur SL Jumbo reference 1832, the current collection was rekindled with a handsome, fully integrated 40mm Automatic in steel and titanium. The latest Ingenieur Automatic is slightly larger and […]

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NORQAIN Launches New Independence Skeleton Chronos Worn & Wound
Norqain Launches New Independence Skeleton Mar 31, 2025

NORQAIN Launches New Independence Skeleton Chronos

After last year’s success in launching the Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm, NORQAIN will be unveiling two new additions to this line-up for Watches and Wonders: purple and jade. Now, you may recall that there was already a purple Skeleton Chrono in September of 2024, but this one we’re told is slightly different – and not limited to just a 300-piece production. As the name suggests for these models, NORQAIN has continued its offering of high-end timepieces with a little peek under the hood, so to speak, with a skeletonized dial. While this may be a rugged watch that’s meant to be put to use, seeing the delicate pieces just underneath the sapphire crystal remind us of why we love this hobby. In terms of appearance and material, both new models feature Grade 5 titanium cases, weighing in at just 94 grams. For the purple version, the titanium complements the deep purple accents and rubber strap for a sporty look. As for the jade version, there is a DLC coating for a more sombre look that nicely contrasts the richness of the green rubber strap.  The Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm is equipped with a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, a running seconds indicator, and a fly-back function. In terms of movement, both models run on an NORQAIN 8K Manufacture Calibre (NK24/1) with a 62-hour power reserve, which can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback. Both new references in the Skeleton Chrono 42mm will be showcased during Watches & Wonders and you can expect h...

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[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Grand Seiko SBGN003 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGN003 One Mar 27, 2025

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Grand Seiko SBGN003

One of the first things that you may be thinking is “wow, cool Explorer II homage”. I’d say you’re not totally wrong either because that’s how I made my way to the SBGN003. I was looking hard at 5 digit Explorer II’s, but still had a hard time committing to that much spend on a watch, especially with a 9 month old baby in the house and the pandemic still being very much a thing. I remember seeing the Grand Seiko SBGN003 pop up in my Instagram feed and started to do my deep dive. There was a lot to like about the watch, and being that I already had another GS with a 9F movement in my collection, I more or less knew what to expect. Once it hit the Watch Recon alerts page, I knew it would end up in my collection. If you’re able to set a Watch Recon alert without buying the watch, you are a stronger person than I.  When the watch showed up on a hot August afternoon, it just immediately clicked. The finishing on the 39mm steel case was perfect. It fit my 6.75” wrist like a glove and quickly rose to the top of my most-worn watches. Let’s take a closer look at this highly accurate, easy to wear GMT from Grand Seiko and how it’s held up over my tenure with the watch.    $3400 [VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Grand Seiko SBGN003 Case Stainless steel Movement 9F86 Dial Black Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 39 x 46mm Thickness 12.1mm Lug Width 19mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $...

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[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Citizen Promaster Navihawk 40 Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Navihawk 40 Citizen- Mar 26, 2025

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Citizen Promaster Navihawk 40

Citizen- it’s a brand name loaded with connotations for many enthusiasts. For me, before I knew that watches were something you could be enthusiastic about, it represented a significant step up from the Casios and Fossils I wore. It was the ubiquitous display case filled with somewhat flashy and easily recognizable watches that I was drawn to when visiting the mall as a teenager, yet was completely out of reach for my weekend job at Taco Bell budget. Though phrases like “wrist presence” and “over engineered” weren’t in my high school vocabulary, if I asked my past self what drew me to these often-oversized watches, I’d probably find a less articulate way to describe these characteristics. These days, as a budget conscious enthusiast with thankfully a bit more cash than my Taco Bell days, my views on the brand have evolved. I now associate it with attainable prices that punch above their price point and a versatile and extensive catalog that has been embraced by general consumers and enthusiasts alike. In a landscape where many brands are moving up market and MSRPs are seemingly tracking egg prices, it’s easy to see why Citizen has become the default choice for many collectors seeking value driven iconic designs in the sub $1000 (and often considerably less) category. While some Citizen models such as the Promaster line of dive watches and the integrated bracelet Tsuyosa have been accepted with open hearts and empty wrists in enthusiast circles, others with ...

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Blancpain Scales Down the Fifty Fathoms Tech SJX Watches
Blancpain Scales Down Mar 12, 2025

Blancpain Scales Down the Fifty Fathoms Tech

Primarily vintage-inspired, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was given a modern makeover with the first “Tech” model launched in 2023. Now Blancpain follows up with the Fifty Fathoms Tech Ocean Commitment IV. While retaining the same lug-less case, the latest model is more compact and streamlined than its Tech predecessor, though it’s still 45 mm in diameter. And it features an “absolute black” dial - coated with a substance that absorbs 97% of incident light - ensuring maximum contrast for the luminescent hands and block-shaped hour markers. Like earlier Ocean Commitment editions, which were all vintage-inspired, this watch will help support the Blancpain’s marine conservation efforts, specifically the Blancpain x Sulubaaï Marine Research Center in Palawan, Philippines. Initial thoughts The new Fifty Fathoms Tech offers notable refinements over the earlier Tech Gombessa edition from two years ago. While the oversized, 47 mm Tech Gombessa was designed primarily as a specialised diving instrument, making it arguably too large for everyday wear, the new model adopts a more conventional dive watch dimensions. At 45 mm, it’s still large but more manageable, improving its wearability. The “absolute black” dial is also an interesting upgrade that makes sense in a dive watch given the need for legibility. While Blancpain doesn’t specify the details of the dial coating, it appears to be similar to Vantablack and other blacker-than-black coatings used by other ...

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Certina Watches Review: History and Highlights from the Modern Collect Teddy Baldassarre
Certina Mar 10, 2025

Certina Watches Review: History and Highlights from the Modern Collect

Certina is a watch brand that may be fairly new to you, especially if you live in the United States, where distribution has been limited to non-existent over the past several decades. In actuality, however, Certina is among the oldest Swiss watch brands currently in operation and today represents an appealing and perhaps underrated option in the arena of stylish sports watches that are solidly built yet priced affordably. The Kurth Brothers, Grana, and the Dirty Dozen Certina has its origins in 1888, when two Swiss brothers, Adolf and Alfred Kurth, set up a watchmaking workshop in an annex to their family home in the town of Grenchen (above). Initially, the brothers made movements and parts that they supplied to other watch companies in the region, but by 1906 they were making enough of their own complete timepieces that they introduced a brand name: Grana, which was a shortened version of the Latin word “Granatus,” referring to Grenchen. The early Grana watches found success, but for several years the Kurth brothers continued to also make and supply movements to other companies; the name “Certina” - another Latin-derived word, from “certus,” for “sure” or “certain” - began appearing on the company’s timepieces throughout the 1930s. The name, which was also easier to pronounce than “Grana” in more languages, was registered in 1933 and eventually became the company’s sole name in 1949.  Few Grana watches are remembered as milestones today, i...

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Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept KAWS “Companion” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept KAWS Mar 10, 2025

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept KAWS “Companion”

Launched a few months ago, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” 43 mm is Audemars Piguet’s first collaboration with Kaws, the contemporary artist best known for work inspired by Mickey Mouse and The Simpsons. While the Kaws edition is not the first AP pop culture collab, it is arguably the best. Initial thoughts I like the Royal Oak Concept Kaws, more than any of AP’s other pop culture collaborations. I like the aesthetic, feel, and execution (though not the oversized case), which put this amongst the best contemporary art crossovers in watchmaking. The Hublot-Murakami series is another outstanding artist-watchmaker collab, but the AP-Kaws watch is executed to a much higher level of quality (and price). Visually, the Kaws is big and bold, but rendered in muted, monochromatic grey – a paradoxical but complementary combination. At a distance the watch seems like yet another oversized Royal Oak, but up close it gets more interesting, starting with the fact that it has no hands in the traditional sense. The lack of hands (which are replaced with peripheral pointers) make this a little more interesting, since the cal. 2979 is a new movement that’s a variant of AP’s more conventional tourbillon calibre. I appreciate the fact that the movement was developed for this watch, both in order to accommodate the figure on the dial and to incorporate the “padded” Kaws aesthetic into the movement bridges on the back. Adding a mechanical complication to the Kaws s...

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