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Results for Antoine Norbert de Patek

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Antoine Norbert de Patek

Polish-born watchmaker who founded Patek Philippe in Geneva (1839; renamed 1851).
Rolex Nicknames Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Jun 5, 2025

Rolex Nicknames Explained

When it comes to Rolex, nicknames for its watches are almost as plentiful as the watches themselves – and often so esoteric that even avid watch enthusiasts can be perplexed by them. Can you tell a Kermit from a Hulk, for example? Or a John Player from a John Mayer? And would you be able to identify a Thunderbird or a Texano in the rare chance you’d come across one these days? Rolex’s legions of fans have been bestowing colorful and often esoteric nicknames on its most noteworthy watches for decades, and there are more of them than you probably even realize. Here’s a mostly alphabetical primer on the top 20 Rolex nicknames you’re likely to hear (and maybe even use) regularly in today’s buzzing watch-enthusiast community.  Batman GMT-Master II Ref. 116710BLNR Debuting in 2013, this Rolex GMT-Master II reference garnered the nickname “Batman” for its first-of-its-kind bicolor Cerachrom bezel in shades of blue and black, which undoubtedly brought to mind for many enthusiasts the signature colors of DC Comics’ dark-garbed guardian of Gotham City. This “Batman” moniker is now applied primarily to the model on the three-link Oyster bracelet.  Batgirl GMT-Master II Ref. 126710BLNR As alluded to directly above, the “Batgirl” name has been applied to the Ref. 126710BLNR of the aforementioned GMT-Master II, introduced in 2019, which differs from the original “Batman” only in its choice of a Jubilee bracelet rather than an Oyster. Is one more masculine...

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First Look – The Return of Urban Jürgensen, and the New UJ-1 Tourbillon, UJ-2 Time-Only and UJ-3 Perpetual Monochrome
Urban Jürgensen Jun 5, 2025

First Look – The Return of Urban Jürgensen, and the New UJ-1 Tourbillon, UJ-2 Time-Only and UJ-3 Perpetual

A couple of days ago, we published a long, in-depth article on the history of one of the most important watchmaking dynasties, Urban Jürgensen. There were more reasons for this article than just celebrating this historic name, which was founded in 1773. This article was here to prepare the grounds for what is happening today, […]

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Urban Jürgensen Debuts the UJ-2 Time-Only SJX Watches
Breguet s work but Jun 5, 2025

Urban Jürgensen Debuts the UJ-2 Time-Only

Urban Jürgensen’s entry-level model is now the time-only UJ-2. The brand’s new design language includes nods to the past without being repetitive. Compared to the limited-edition UJ-1 tourbillon, the UJ-2 is a simpler and (relatively) more accessible watch, with a calibre inside that can serve as a base for complications in the future. Initial thoughts The UJ-2 shows no obvious direct influence from past watches and marks the beginning of Urban Jürgensen’s new approach. The styling is reminiscent of Breguet’s work, but the fine details are traceable to Jürgensen’s own creations. Inside, a new movement bears Voutilainen’s unmistakable touch. The gilded, grained caliber appears plain at first glance, but it is of high quality and strikingly original in many respects. Among the four versions of the UJ-2, one in particular catches the eye. The rose-gold model in particular, with its bright silvered dial recalls George Daniels’s Millennium series, thanks to the off-center dial and gold dial rings. The small seconds sub dial is rather large, with its diameter almost spanning the watch face diameter. Along with its lopsided placement, it makes for an interesting sight. The dial as a whole looks classical, but with a slight minimalist touch - same as in the UJ-1. The movement inside looks to be the base for models to come. In a growing trend of using new materials, longer power reserves and high frequencies, the UJ-1 caliber remains quintessentially traditional,...

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In-Depth: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 250th Anniversary Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breguet Jürgensen Pratt Jun 5, 2025

In-Depth: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 250th Anniversary Tourbillon

Led by Kari Voutilainen and backed by an American collector, Urban Jürgensen has been revived in grand style. The brand’s inaugural watch is undoubtedly one of this year’s most surprising launches, the UJ-1 250th Anniversary Watch. The first of three new models, the UJ-1 is a limited edition that pays tribute to the Oval, a pocket watch created by Peter Baumberger and Derek Pratt that is perhaps brand’s greatest timepiece. Having been dormant for a while and a little confused in terms of focus (including jumping on the fad of an integrated bracelet sports watch), the brand is now running full steam ahead and going back to its high horology roots with a trio of models, led by the UJ-1 that lives up to expectations, and then some. Initial thoughts The UJ-1 sets the tone for what is to come from Urban Jürgensen by Kari Voutilainen. Even before turning the watch over and admiring its movement, the execution of the dial hints at the quality within, reflecting the fact that Mr Voutilainen is an undisputed master of guillochage. At first sight the piece shows an engine-turned face that is tastefully restrained. The collective style of Breguet, Jürgensen, Pratt and Voutilainen can be immediately discerned from the dial. While wearing all the marks of traditional engine-turned dials, the proportions, the typeface and the “zero” marker make it look a little updated and almost leaning on the minimalistic.   The subtle change suggests that the brand is truly going into a...

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Citizen Revives Its Funky Depth-Sensing Diver for the Aqualand’s 40th Two Broke Watch Snobs
Citizen Revives Jun 5, 2025

Citizen Revives Its Funky Depth-Sensing Diver for the Aqualand’s 40th

It’s hard not to smile when a brand pulls something straight out of the archives and actually gets it right. The original Citizen Aqualand that dropped in '85 was a geeky, glorious collision of analog dive chops and digital gadgetry. You didn’t need to love diving to want one; you just needed to be the kind of person who liked pushing buttons to see what they did. I was that person. Still am.

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Citizen Celebrates 40 Years of the Aqualand, One of the Most Unique Dive Watches Ever Made Worn & Wound
Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Jun 5, 2025

Citizen Celebrates 40 Years of the Aqualand, One of the Most Unique Dive Watches Ever Made

There are lots of dive watches out there – it’s perhaps the most ubiquitous of all the watch genres. Frankly, it’s easy to see why. In addition to being highly specialized for a very specific task, they tend to work incredibly well as casual, everyday watches regardless of what you happen to be doing with them. The reason for this is very much because of the design traits these watches share that make them so highly specialized: ultra clear legibility, robust water proof cases, and a generally nondescript design that allows the watch to be worn easily with a wetsuit and also blend into the fabric of our everyday lives.  But then there are a handful of truly unusual dive watches that give away their specialized nature even at a passing glance. They look less like watches and more like obscure devices or instruments that should only be used by people who really know what they’re doing, have received the necessary training, and perhaps have signed a liability waiver. The Omega Ploprof immediately comes to mind, as does something like the Singer Divetrack – these are watches that play with the form of what we understand a watch to be in the name of functionality. Citizen, for 40 years, has also made a watch that fits neatly into this category: the Aqualand. The name is a bit of an oxymoron, but the watch itself is less confusing. It has always been a uniquely specialized instrument tailored to the specific needs of divers.  This year marks the 40th anniversary of t...

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The Best Thus Far? Meet The Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss Fratello
Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Jun 5, 2025

The Best Thus Far? Meet The Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss

The Swatch press release for this watch says it’s “inspired by the unexplored.” The deep green new Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss with touches of black (bezel) and beige (markers, hands, bezel numerals, etc.) takes inspiration from the ocean’s depths. Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss This is the ninth Blancpain […] Visit The Best Thus Far? Meet The Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss to read the full article.

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Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver Fratello
Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Jun 5, 2025

Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver

In 1985, Citizen revolutionized the world of dive watches by introducing the Aqualand. Among the standout features of this then-state-of-the-art dive tool were the multifunctional digital display and built-in electronic depth gauge. The latter gave the watch its distinct shape, with the depth sensor’s hardware element protruding from the left side of the case. The […] Visit Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver to read the full article.

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Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Modern Rolex Daytonas Fratello
Rolex Daytonas Rolex only makes Jun 5, 2025

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Modern Rolex Daytonas

Rolex only makes one chronograph, and it’s called the Daytona. This has been a statement of fact since the first model bearing the name was created in 1963. Okay, fine; there’s one notable exception, the Yacht-Master II. But we’ll leave that as a topic for another day. Today on Fratello Talks, it’s all about our […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Modern Rolex Daytonas to read the full article.

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Introducing – The New Citizen Aqualand Promaster 40th Anniversary Limited Edition Monochrome
Citizen Aqualand Promaster 40th Anniversary Jun 5, 2025

Introducing – The New Citizen Aqualand Promaster 40th Anniversary Limited Edition

In certain very specific situations, one’s life could very much depend on a watch, especially when it comes to environments humans are not good at surviving without support. And this is where tool watches can, literally, play a vital role. Plunging ourselves into the depths of the ocean, for instance, is a fine example of […]

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Introducing: The New Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Watches Fratello
Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Jun 5, 2025

Introducing: The New Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Watches

I wrote a lengthy review on the stainless steel Type XX Chronographe 2067 late last year. You can find (and read) it here. If you want to skip to the conclusion, I ended that review with the following paragraph: “I hope Breguet will introduce more variations of the modern Type XX that are closer to […] Visit Introducing: The New Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Watches to read the full article.

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Breguet’s Latest Type XX is Vintage Inspired and No-Date SJX Watches
Breguet s Latest Type XX Jun 5, 2025

Breguet’s Latest Type XX is Vintage Inspired and No-Date

Following the Classique Souscription, and Tradition Seconde Rétrograde, Breguet continues its 250th anniversary roll-out by turning to its signature pilot’s watch. The Type XX Chronographe 2075BH debuts in two variants in “Breguet gold”: a regular production with a black aluminium dial and a 250-piece limited edition with a sterling silver dial. Both are handsome and stay mostly true to the model’s heritage thanks to faithful sizing and a manually-wound movement. The regular production with a black aluminium dial (left), and sterling silver dial of the limited edition Initial Thoughts The new Type XX ticks many of the boxes from an enthusiast’s perspective with its compact dial and concise dial that does without a date and hour totalizer – both welcome reductions to the first-generation design. That said, the Breguet gold case is limiting due to the price. A stainless steel case would’ve been even more appreciated, though that will probably arrive in due time. While the cal. 7278/7279 in the new Type XX is technically excellent – like most Breguet calibres – the thoroughly modern construction doesn’t complement the vintage-inspired design. Adapting the cal. 582 used in the 1990s Type XX might have been more interesting due to its lateral clutch construction and increasingly rare cam-control system, though the cal. 7278/7279 reads better on a spec sheet with its vertical clutch. And to preserve the vintage feel, a solid, hand-engraved case back might...

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Stowa Updates the Antea Classic KS Worn & Wound
Stowa Jun 4, 2025

Stowa Updates the Antea Classic KS

Bauhaus design, though never really leaving the spotlight, is certainly in a bit of a renaissance these days, with its focus on stylistic simplicity and function appealing to contemporary audiences just as successfully as it did during its heyday a full century ago. German watchmaker Stowa, however, is taking the history and legacy of the style in a more defined direction, with their latest Antea Classic KS in rose gold and anthracite.  According to the brand, they’ve been making Bahaus-style watches in Germany since 1937, and argue that perhaps the State School of Design (the originator of Bauhaus, which existed from 1919 to 1933) was a more direct influence on watchmakers of the 1930s than previously thought. In celebration of that marriage of influential German design and horology, Stowa has been producing a modernized version of its first Bauhaus watch since 2004. The new Antea Classic KS references continue that tightly-wound history, with new touches to appeal to current trends in watchmaking and design.  Since the original 1937 model wore a copper dial in a chrome-plated case, Stowa has reintroduced a version of that color combination with the new references. Both feature a highly-polished 35.5mm (44.6mm lug-to-lug) stainless steel case, which envelops the sunburst dial in either rose gold or anthracite. Temperature-blued steel hands sweep around the dial, pointing to thin and tall white Roman numerals with no indexes between each hour, giving the dial a very cl...

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Glashütte Original SeaQ Review Teddy Baldassarre
Glashutte Original Jun 4, 2025

Glashütte Original SeaQ Review

The Glashütte Original SeaQ debuted in 2019 alongside the German watchmaker’s then-new “Spezialist” family. The collection has grown to include the SeaQ Panorama Date, the smaller SeaQ 39.5mm, and the SeaQ Chronograph. I believe the SeaQ was the first new dive or sports watch from the brand since the Senator Sport Evolution from 2009. Inspired by the vintage Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 from 1969, the SeaQ has gone on to become one of the most lauded luxury dive watches out there. These are true luxury watches, though and they come with matching price tags. Still, the Glashütte Original SeaQ is one of the best options out there for someone with high standards but doesn’t want to join the sea (pun intended) of Submariners and Seamasters out there. There’s a funny quandary that reveals itself when looking at the SeaQ Panorama Date in comparison to the smaller SeaQ with the standard, less sexy date window. You can have the bigger case and the panorama date window or you can have the smaller case without the panorama date window. But, since you can’t have both, I made sure to add a section at the end with a brief comparative rundown of the SeaQ with the smaller 39.5mm case.  Glashütte Original SeaQ Case Let’s start with the SeaQ Panorama which comes in at 43.2mm wide and 15.7mm thick with a 51.4mm lug-to-lug measurement (with 300 m of water resistance). Yes, that’s a big boy and anyone with a smaller (or even the smaller size of medium) wrist is going to have ...

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A Taste of the Infinite: Hands-On with the J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure Worn & Wound
Jun 4, 2025

A Taste of the Infinite: Hands-On with the J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure

When Zach Kazan told me the other day that a couple of watches by J.N. Shapiro had arrived at the office, I did a double-take. Not privy to the conversations he had been having regarding an article in progress, finding out that two watches by this revered independent were in the office was an exciting surprise. Although I’ve come across perhaps two in the wild I can recall (one a sample of the Resurgence and the other a custom piece for a collector), they aren’t the type of watches that get sent around very often, being rare and high-end. It turned out, perhaps in an even more exciting turn of events, that these weren’t your ordinary, if such a thing exists, J.N. Shapiros; rather, they were samples of a new line called the Infinity Series Pure. A new duo of watches meant to open, or re-open, the brand to a broader audience of collectors. Though still highly limited in nature, these watches aren’t one-offs or custom pieces. Instead, they are serially produced, albeit in only 18 pieces per color, and feature in-house, engine-turned guilloché dials and handmade, finished precious metal hands. As such, although intended as a more accessible model, the term is relative, and the Infinity Series Pures are priced at $26,000, placing them in an interesting competitive space for independent brands. Back to the point of them being in the office, I couldn’t help but spend time with these watches. And, thus, also form some opinions on them. So, although my time was limited, ...

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Introducing – The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure Monochrome
Jun 4, 2025

Introducing – The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure

J.N. Shapiro, one of the celebrated names in independent watchmaking, has earned a following for his masterful use of traditional guilloché and thoughtful, almost philosophical approach to design. Founded by former educator Josh Shapiro, the California-based brand gained recognition with the Infinity Series, showcasing the artisanal craft with Shapiro’s now-signature “Infinity Weave” guilloché pattern. The […]

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What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller? Fratello
Rolex Land-Dweller? Jun 4, 2025

What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller?

The Rolex Land-Dweller was the most talked-about release of this year’s Watches and Wonders. Regardless of whether the watch appealed to everyone, due to the groundbreaking new caliber and revival of the Oysterquartz design, the general impact of the Land-Dweller was palpable. We had an opportunity to experience the 36mm and 40mm models during Watches […] Visit What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller? to read the full article.

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The Entry-Level Ulysse Nardin Freak Gains a Grand Feu Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak Gains Jun 4, 2025

The Entry-Level Ulysse Nardin Freak Gains a Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Ulysse Nardin gives its most affordable Freak a new look with a blue flinqué enamel dial and rose gold case. The brand has launched three other Freaks with enamel dials over the past two years, but all were small-run, retailer-exclusive limited editions. The Freak X Gold Enamel, on the other hand, is not retailer-specific and will be limited to 120 examples. The watch puts Ulysse Nardin’s investments in silicon fabrication and dial making to good use, and with good results. The combination of traditional métiers d’art with state-of-the-art technology also makes it more approachable to traditionalists than a typical Freak. Initial Thoughts Even as it nears 25 years on the market, Ulysse Nardin’s Freak remains avant-garde in aesthetics and technology. The Freak looks and feels like a small-batch concept watch, rather than the collection staple it’s become. It’s hard to believe you can walk into a retailer and walk out with something like this from a major Swiss brand for less than six figures. A rarely mentioned refinement is the use of clear sapphire jewels, rather than the typical reddish-purple rubies. It’s rare for brands to harmonize jewel colors with the rest of the watch, but it always results in a more cohesive look. Besides striking looks, its also a surprisingly practical watch, with a reasonably sized case, respectable lume, and 50 m water resistance. Overall, a well-rounded package, though the US$10,300 premium for the enamel dial over the regular ...

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Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle - A Special Edition For NYC Fratello
Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jun 4, 2025

Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle - A Special Edition For NYC

Watch brands launch special editions on every occasion, from anniversaries of their founding or famous models to the signing of new ambassadors and the opening of new flagship boutiques. Let me introduce you to the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle, a special-edition watch launched to celebrate the new Hublot Fifth Avenue flagship boutique. It […] Visit Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle - A Special Edition For NYC to read the full article.

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Hands-On With The New Gold-Plated Forstner Bracelets Fratello
Jun 3, 2025

Hands-On With The New Gold-Plated Forstner Bracelets

As a die-hard collector of vintage watches, I’ve grown to appreciate the right accessories to pair with my treasured pieces. Straps are a great option, and we’ve devoted plenty of articles to reviewing them. However, an appropriate bracelet is the chef’s kiss. The problem is that authentic bracelets are difficult to find and are often […] Visit Hands-On With The New Gold-Plated Forstner Bracelets to read the full article.

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Bulova Devil Diver Review Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Jun 3, 2025

Bulova Devil Diver Review

The Bulova Devil Diver (formally known as the Bulova Oceanographer) first debuted back in the 1960s, when it went on to become something of a cult classic. It wasn’t a record-breaking dive watch worn by the world’s most accomplished that-and-that, it just had a striking design, and there was something edgy and subversive about that “666ft” on the dial. Of course, that number has to do with its water resistance and nothing sinister, but the Devil Diver moniker is really catchy and has stuck. Back in 2018, Bulova reissued the Oceanographer, but at 44mm wide it was just not what a lot of people were clamoring for. A few years later, in 2021, came this 41mm wide version that is much truer to the original. Four years later, the affordable dive watch market has gotten more competitive but the Bulova Devil Diver still holds its own, so let’s take a look at what makes this orange-dial diver feel like a slice of heaven for well under $1,000. Bulova Devil Diver Case: When the Bulova Devil Diver was first reintroduced back in 2018, there were quite a few gripes we all heard about the 44mm case being just way too big and not true to the original. Fortunately, the 2021 iteration brought the case back to the 41mm size of the original, a decision that won over the hearts of some jilted purists. To be fair, you do not have to be a vintage purist to see why a 41mm case will always be preferable to 44mm to a vast majority of contemporary buyers. Of course, the ~202 meters of water...

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