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Wiki · Guide
El Primero Zenith

Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).

Wiki · Guide
Panda / Reverse Panda Dial

Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.

Wiki · Guide
Telemeter Scale

Chronograph scale converting flash-to-sound time into distance. WWI artillery-spotting origin; vintage Longines / Lemania / Heuer.

Wiki · Guide
Pulsometer Scale

Chronograph scale reading heart rate in BPM after counting 15 or 30 pulse beats. The 1920s-60s doctor\'s watch standard.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph in Crystallized Titanium SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier May 23, 2025

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph in Crystallized Titanium

Initially launched as a unique piece in a crystallized titanium case for Only Watch 2023, the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph was then added to the catalog, most recently as a limited edition in ceramic. Now the model returns in its original crystallized titanium livery, accented in lime green. Under the hood is a high-beat Vaucher chronograph movement, also used by Parmigiani Fleurier and Richard Mille. The split-seconds is the flagship of the Monaco collection, impressive inside and out – with a price to match – but seemingly runs counter to the brand’s established direction of affordable sports watches. Initial Thoughts The latest iteration of the Monaco split-seconds is the best yet, price aside. The variants of the model released between the one-off for Only Watch and this felt incomplete without the crystallized titanium case. The material is visually and technically interesting, and its resemblance to forged carbon fits the automotive theme; lime green accents notwithstanding, it’s a good-looking watch. Image – TAG Heuer A rattrapante is a natural fit for an auto racing-focused brand like TAG Heuer, but the ambitious CHF145,000 price is confusing, given TAG Heuer’s efforts toward making the Swiss-made tourbillon affordable. The Monaco split-seconds itself is excellent – the movement especially so – but an affordable rattrapante would be more in line with the brand’s recent direction. While the base movement is shared with costlier Richar...

TAG Heuer Unveils The Super Cool Retro Monaco Chronograph Stopwatch Fratello
TAG Heuer Unveils May 23, 2025

TAG Heuer Unveils The Super Cool Retro Monaco Chronograph Stopwatch

After a first look at all three TAG Heuer watches that came out today, this was the one that I immediately got excited about. There is just something about the retro looks of the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Stopwatch that screams “cool!” This new 970-piece limited edition takes inspiration from the Heuer stopwatches from the […] Visit TAG Heuer Unveils The Super Cool Retro Monaco Chronograph Stopwatch to read the full article.

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Mini Tapisserie Clous De Paris Fratello
Gerald Charles May 20, 2025

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Mini Tapisserie Clous De Paris

Gerald Charles has rolled out a steady slate of releases in support of its 25th anniversary. Among these debuts are new versions of the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph, which feature métiers d’art in the form of tapisserie Clous de Paris dials. The releases also include two case materials. I spent time at the Gerald Charles booth […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Mini Tapisserie Clous De Paris to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph: The Brand’s First Ceramic-Cased Captain Cook Chrono Fratello
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic May 19, 2025

Hands-On With The New Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph: The Brand’s First Ceramic-Cased Captain Cook Chrono

The names are the same, but the looks are very different. A hands-on experience with the new Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph revealed strong similarities between the black-and-rose-tone model and its green sibling made of plasma high-tech ceramic. With a matte black ceramic case adorned with a rose-gold-colored PVD-coated steel turning bezel, the chronograph […] Visit Hands-On With The New Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph: The Brand’s First Ceramic-Cased Captain Cook Chrono to read the full article.

Retrospective: Tomas Sports A Puzzling Late Blue-Dial Gallet Chronograph Fratello
May 8, 2025

Retrospective: Tomas Sports A Puzzling Late Blue-Dial Gallet Chronograph

I saw some potential in its attractive dial. But since it was so simple and powered by a pretty standard Valjoux movement, I truly didn’t expect this blue-dial Gallet to become my beater. It’s funny how, every so often, a watch I’d least expect finds a way to wriggle itself into my heart. Despite what […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Sports A Puzzling Late Blue-Dial Gallet Chronograph to read the full article.

Tudor Adds a Limited Edition Carbon Chrono to the Black Bay Chronograph Lineup Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer whose parent company LVMH May 5, 2025

Tudor Adds a Limited Edition Carbon Chrono to the Black Bay Chronograph Lineup

We haven’t remarked on it all that much to this point, but one of the inescapable trends at Watches & Wonders this year was a prevalence of F1 cars making appearances around the Palexpo. If you scheduled your meetings in a particular way, you could easily be convinced that every Swiss watch brand has some level of involvement with the sport. IWC, of course, is just beginning to promote F1, the highly anticipated new film starring Brad Pitt that is said to feature many, many IWC watches. And then there’s TAG Heuer, whose parent company LVMH secured a lucrative deal with Formula 1 in the off season, and returned TAG to official timekeeper status. Both of these brands had actual cars in their booths, and they drew a crowd all week. Then there’s H. Moser, a sponsor of the Alpine team, and finally (please get in the comments if I’ve missed one) there’s Tudor, a partner of the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls Formula One Team, who took this weekend’s Miami GP as an opportunity to release their latest racing themed watch, the Black Bay Chrono Carbon 25.  The limited edition (2,025 numbered examples) chronograph is modeled on the Black Bay Chronograph, a watch that has seen its share of special editions in the last few years, mostly by way of colored dials. This watch is a little different as it represents an all new case material for the Black Bay Chrono, making use of Tudor’s carbon fiber composite material (the caseback, pushers, and crown are all rendered in titanium ...

Hands-On With The Oak & Oscar Atwood Flyback Chronograph Fratello
Oak & Oscar Apr 17, 2025

Hands-On With The Oak & Oscar Atwood Flyback Chronograph

Today, almost a year after its introduction, we’re taking the Oak & Oscar Atwood flyback chronograph for a spin. Unlike my colleague Mike, I’m not very familiar with the Chicago-based brand, which has been in the watch business for 10 years. Next to the Atwood, the brand currently also offers the Humboldt GMT and the […] Visit Hands-On With The Oak & Oscar Atwood Flyback Chronograph to read the full article.

First Look - The Singer Heritage Collection Chronograph with Restored Valjoux Movement Monochrome
Singer Apr 16, 2025

First Look - The Singer Heritage Collection Chronograph with Restored Valjoux Movement

Singer (understand Singer Vehicle Design) first made a name for itself with its bespoke restorations of the Porsche 911, and in recent years, the California-based brand has also been turning heads in watchmaking with its Track 1 chronograph – known for its unconventional layouts and innovative AgenGraphe movements developed by Agenhor, without forgetting the Divetrack, […]

Breitling Introduces the Top Time B01 Racing Chronograph with a Little Help From an Automotive Icon Worn & Wound
Breitling Introduces Apr 10, 2025

Breitling Introduces the Top Time B01 Racing Chronograph with a Little Help From an Automotive Icon

While more marketable leagues like Formula 1 entice with hypercars, social media presence, and reality TV, rally racing continues to wow spectators with its gritty and furious breed of off-road motorsport. Still, the rally world isn’t without flashes of luxury, and Breitling’s three new Top Time B01 Racing models look to celebrate the sport in all its dirty, dangerous beauty. Fortunately, the Swiss brand has a wealth of innovations to pull from their Top Time line-most notable is the “dashboard” dual-chronograph dial design that helps give the new Racing models that rally-inspired edge.  All three Racing models are anchored by a stainless steel cushion case that gives the watch a squared-off and recognizably retro-futuristic look. With a 38mm diameter and a 44.4mm lug-to-lug measurement, the Top Time Racing should wear comfortably on most wrists but remain legible-both important factors to consider in motorsports, where one wasted second could spell disaster (or mortal danger). Raised, grooved sections add texture and dimension to each rounded corner of the case and mirror the tight spacing of the ¼ second dashes around the dial. All three models feature perforated calfskin straps nestled within an 18mm lug width, a design that calls to mind vintage racing gloves but still emphasizes durability and sportiness.  The aforementioned “dashboard” dual-chronograph dial mimics an instrument cluster, with “squircle” (yes, Breitling does call them that) subdi...

Introducing - The New Union Glashütte Noramis Date Sport and Noramis Chronograph Sport Monochrome
Union Glashütte Apr 8, 2025

Introducing - The New Union Glashütte Noramis Date Sport and Noramis Chronograph Sport

Union Glashütte, now part of Swatch Group, marks its birth in 1893 when Johannes Dürrstein founded the Uhrenfabrik Union in the heart of Germany’s watchmaking region. Balancing vintage and modern elements with appealing designs and a reasonable price-to-quality ratio, nowadays the brand receives proper attention with releases like last year´s Noramis Chronograph Sport with its […]

Zenith Introduces the Blue Ceramic Chronograph Trilogy SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet having already done it Apr 6, 2025

Zenith Introduces the Blue Ceramic Chronograph Trilogy

In celebration of birthday, Zenith presents a trio of chronographs entirely in blue ceramic, the 160th Anniversary Editions of the Chronometer Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph, and Pilot Big Date Flyback. Each retains the specifications of its steel equivalent, with the only distinction being the case and bracelet material. Initial thoughts Best known for the El Primero high-beat automatic chronograph, Zenith arguably does best at chronographs, and that’s exactly what it’s doing for its anniversary. The reimagining of Zenith’s best-known models in blue ceramic is on trend – maybe a bit too trendy – with brands like Audemars Piguet having already done it. That said, the anniversary trilogy does offer a striking new alternative to anyone seeking an El Primero with a whole new aesthetic. The use of ceramic for both the case and bracelet, however, means each of the trilogy models is notably pricier than the equivalent model in steel. That’s acceptable for an anniversary limited edition, but not quite the same value proposition as the steel variants. Blue ceramic The Chronomaster Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph, and Pilot Big Date Flyback each retain the same dimensions and movement as their respective steel models, except that the case and bracelet are now in blue ceramic modelled on Zenith’s signature hue. According to Zenith, blue ceramic was an undertaking that involved months of research and development. Blue ceramic is significantly more challenging to finish...

Patek Philippe Introduces The Reference 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph In Rose Gold Fratello
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 3, 2025

Patek Philippe Introduces The Reference 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph In Rose Gold

At times, it’s hard to keep up with all the new releases during Watches and Wonders. A good example is the stream of great ones from Patek Philippe. The brand unveiled a total of 15 new references this week that all deserve our attention. But where do you start? One glance made that very clear […] Visit Patek Philippe Introduces The Reference 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph In Rose Gold to read the full article.

First Look - The More Compact Parmigiani Tonda PF Chronograph No-Date 40mm Mineral Blue Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier unveiled Apr 3, 2025

First Look - The More Compact Parmigiani Tonda PF Chronograph No-Date 40mm Mineral Blue

Three years ago,  Parmigiani Fleurier unveiled its sophisticated Tonda PF luxury sports watch collection. Still bearing traits from the original Tonda designed by Michel Parmigiani, the collection debuted with four models, including the 42mm Tonda PF Chronograph. The new Tonda PF Chronograph, presented during Watches & Wonders 2025, comes in a more compact 40mm case […]

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph in White Ceramic. SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Apr 1, 2025

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph in White Ceramic.

TAG Heuer’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2025 is the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1, a tribute to the brand’s storied Formula 1 history. This striking timepiece features a white ceramic case that dispenses with a traditional metallic inner container in a departure from technical norms in construction. A red translucent dial reveal the mechanics below, while the chronograph counters - finished with an asphalt-like texture,white and yellow grid markings, and official F1 typography - proudly display British F1 commentator David Croft’s famous phrase: “Lights Out & Away We Go.” Initial thoughts At first glance, the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 may appear to be just another Formula 1–inspired watch. However, a closer look reveals the subtle yet distinctive details that set it apart from its competitors. Rather than relying on overt F1 motifs, it integrates refined elements-such as the checkered-flag pattern-that showcase its superb craftsmanship and elevate it above other racing-inspired chronographs. Priced at CHF155,000, the Monaco may initially appear costly, particularly given TAG Heuer’s history of being more accessible. Yet, beyond the brand’s heritage lies a timepiece whose exceptional craftsmanship more than warrants its price tag. It is a Vaucher-powered rattrapante chronograph, and this version is unquestionably the most appealing of the iterations to date. And the Formula 1–inspired touches are thoughtfully integrated, an...

Hot Take: The Vintage-Valjoux-Powered Singer Heritage Collection Chronograph Fratello
Singer Mar 28, 2025

Hot Take: The Vintage-Valjoux-Powered Singer Heritage Collection Chronograph

One of last year’s biggest horological surprises for me was the Singer Divetrack, an incredible piece of engineering and design by Singer Reimagined founder Marco Borraccino. But I also quickly realized that its price of CHF 85,000 meant I could only admire it from a distance. That’s fine; I don’t need to own everything I […] Visit Hot Take: The Vintage-Valjoux-Powered Singer Heritage Collection Chronograph to read the full article.

Introducing - A New Grey Colourway for the Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Monochrome
Union Glashütte Mar 24, 2025

Introducing - A New Grey Colourway for the Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph

Union Glashütte, a brand owned by the Swatch Group, is known for crafting reliable timepieces that blend emotional appeal with good value. One of the notable collections is the Belisar Chronograph series, which combines retro inspiration with modern performance and design. The latest addition to this lineup stays true to the specifications of its predecessors. […]

Seiko Refines the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph SJX Watches
Seiko Refines Mar 17, 2025

Seiko Refines the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph

One of the flagship high-tech analogue watches in Seiko’s catalogue, the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph has been reworked to give it visual elements more typically associated with Seiko’s higher-end mechanical watches. Amongst other things, the new Astron GPS chronograph features a sapphire-covered bezel, diamond-milled chapter rings, and facetted case details. It still retains the multi-function 5X83 movement that features GPS time- and time zone setting, perpetual calendar, and a six month power reserve on a full charge. Initial thoughts Someone recently asked me to recommend a useful watch for a person who has no interest in mechanical timepieces, with the condition that the watch has to be analogue and not look like a gadget. The Astron GPS chronograph fits the bill. The model’s newest iterations, four in all, have the styling details of a mechanical watch while having a multitude of high-tech features. One of its most useful features is the GPS time setting, which means the watch syncs with a GPS satellite and then displays the local time zone when travelling. The black and blue dial versions are especially restrained and well suited as a low-key everyday watch, though still a little large at over 44 mm in diameter. Useful watchmaking When sunlight is detected, the Astron GPS chronograph syncs with a GPS satellite automatically up to twice a day, while manual syncing can be done via a pusher in the case. Sunlight also powers the watch – under the dial ...

Introducing: The Edgy Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph 5X83 In Four New Colorways Fratello
Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Mar 15, 2025

Introducing: The Edgy Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph 5X83 In Four New Colorways

Even though the Astron GPS Solar is 13 years old, I still find the tech fascinating because of the constant evolution of the movement and the design. So, of course, I was interested to read the press release accompanying the release of the edgy Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph 5X83 in four new colorways. […] Visit Introducing: The Edgy Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph 5X83 In Four New Colorways to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Hard to Find JDM Seiko, A Bulova Accutron with the Original Box, and a Cool Vantage Chronograph Worn & Wound
Accutron Mar 14, 2025

eBay Finds: A Hard to Find JDM Seiko, A Bulova Accutron with the Original Box, and a Cool Vantage Chronograph

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vantage Chronograph First up this week is a gorgeous vintage Vantage chronograph. The original and mint black and white “reverse panda” dial is just a beauty, with perfectly aged lume. Similar styling to the famous Heuer Carrera, that’s why it’s referred to as a “poor man’s Carrera”, but honestly aside from the name, this watch is just as good at a very reasonable price. The steel case is nice and sharp, and the Valjoux 7733 manual wind movement is clean as a whistle and runs well per the seller. If you’re looking for a nice vintage chronograph, it’s hard to beat this Vantage. View auction here Bulova Sea King Here’s an unusual Bulova Sea King. The oval style steel case definitely stands out with its unique shape. Unpolished, with original finish and crisp edges. The N0 date code dates the watch to 1970. The charcoal dial is excellent, with the Sea King Whale logo and a day/date window at 3 o’clock. The watch comes on a period-correct stretch band that definitely suits the watch if you like the stretch bands. There is no movement picture but the watch runs well per the seller.  View auction here Vintage Lord Elgin  This vintage Lord Elgin is a sweet dress watch, ...

Breitling’s Flagship Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Steel SJX Watches
Breitling s Flagship Navitimer B19 Mar 10, 2025

Breitling’s Flagship Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Steel

The flagship watch of Breitling’s best-known watch, the Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is now more affordable. The latest iteration with an “ice blue” dial retains the specs of the pink gold 140th anniversary edition launched last year, but trades precious metal for steel. Unlike last year’s limited edition, the new steel model is regular production and is priced under US$30,000, over Breitling’s traditional sweet spot on the price spectrum but still half the retail of the anniversary edition. Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar_Ref. PB1920251C1P1_RGB Initial thoughts The new Navitimer B19 keeps it affordable, relatively speaking, by combining Breitling’s excellent in-house B01 movement with the tried-and-tested Dubois Depraz perpetual calendar module. The resulting watch is thick at almost 15 mm high, but combines several complications in Breitling’s iconic slide-rule pilot’s chronograph. While the watch is pricier than most of Breitling’s offerings, it is one of the few perpetual calendar chronographs in this price range. Most of such watches tend to be a lot more expensive, although Austrian independent watchmaker Habring² offers similar for less in keeping with its focus on affordable complications. Value proposition The new B19 retains the same basic specs as its precious metal counterpart. The stainless steel case measures 43 mm in diameter and 14.94 mm in thickness. Water-resistant to 30 m, it features the Navit...

The Dior Chiffre Rouge Chronograph in High Contrast Red and Black SJX Watches
Zenith El Primero 400 another Feb 27, 2025

The Dior Chiffre Rouge Chronograph in High Contrast Red and Black

The latest iteration of Dior’s asymmetrical wristwatch builds on last year’s all-black release. The new Chiffre Rouge Chronograph retains the signature asymmetrical DLC-coated steel case, but adds a striking red-gradient dial adorned with Dior’s trademark geometric pattern. But this is not merely a “fashion watch”, as inside is the Zenith El Primero 400, another example of the group-level movement strategy at LVMH. Initial thoughts Dior has been producing watches since the 1970s, but struggles to resonate with watch enthusiasts, who often dismiss its offerings as “fashion watches” – a challenge faced by other fashion or leather goods makers. The brand has been making “serious” watches on and off over its history, and last year reintroduced a Chiffre Rouge Chronograph powered by the El Primero. While the stark, edgy design of the watch is not for everyone, it is mechanically credible, albeit steeply priced. At US$17,000, the price is definitely more Dior than Zenith. It’s also substantially pricier than last year’s model with the same movement. The value proposition is difficult to justify. A more advanced movement, like Zenith’s latest generation El Primero 3600, would make this more compelling. Red gradient dial The new Chiffre Rouge mirrors last year’s model, retaining the signature cannage-patterned crown and polished bumpers on the right flank. The chief update is the red gradient dial, which features Dior’s signature geometric motif. Powe...

Oak & Oscar and Eric Wind Collaborate on a Limited and Vintage Inspired Edition of the Atwood Chronograph Worn & Wound
Ming together Feb 25, 2025

Oak & Oscar and Eric Wind Collaborate on a Limited and Vintage Inspired Edition of the Atwood Chronograph

One of the things that all great micro and independent watch brands have in common is that they lean into exactly who they are. The brands that attempt to cater to changing tastes and trends never seem to last, or if they do they seem to just kind of languish and not really grow or do anything all that noteworthy. Another way to say this is that brands who are authentically themselves, and a reflection of the point of view of those in charge, and their clients, are almost always going to be the most interesting. Oak & Oscar, I think, neatly falls into that category. Whether the designs are your cup of tea or not, there’s no denying that the brand, their aesthetic, and the choices they make line up precisely with the ideas that founder Chase Fancher and his colleagues are trying to bring to the larger watch community. That was apparent in their recent Humboldt GMT SAR limited edition, which helped to underline the brand’s general love of the outdoors, and it’s built into their latest release, a limited edition version of the Atwood chronograph, in an entirely different way.  The new version of the Atwood is a collaboration with Wind Vintage, the well known vintage retailer founded by Eric Wind in 2017. The Atwood Wind Vintage Edition is simply a product of two friends coming together to work on a cool product, which Oak & Oscar describes as a tenet of what they’re all about. Eric and Chase go way back, having met in New York just after the release of the Burnham, O...

First Look - A New Three-Toned Version of the AP Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Monochrome
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Offshore Feb 25, 2025

First Look - A New Three-Toned Version of the AP Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore debuted in 1993 as the Royal Oak’s bolder, more virile brother with a muscular case and bold juxtaposition of materials. In 2021, the “Beast” was given a facelift, resulting in a more ergonomic 43mm case with redesigned pushers housing the brand’s integrated automatic flyback chronograph movement. No stranger to ceramic […]

First Look - A New AP Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 42mm Black Ceramic with a Méga Tapisserie Dial Monochrome
Audemars Piguet released Feb 25, 2025

First Look - A New AP Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 42mm Black Ceramic with a Méga Tapisserie Dial

About two years ago, Audemars Piguet released an absolutely stunning watch, the black ceramic Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph, a.k.a the Black Beast. A monochromatic and high-tech take on one of the most important watches of the brand – at least in modern days – this watch merged the classic look of the 1993 ROO with […]

Hands-On Video With The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne Feb 8, 2025

Hands-On Video With The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph

Thomas recently published his love story on the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph. I also made a quick video about it since it was in our Fratello office for a few days. Seeing beautiful images of a watch is one thing, but seeing the hands in motion and the wheels and gears turning is […] Visit Hands-On Video With The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph to read the full article.