Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Vintage Mathey-Tissot Type 20 Big Eye Chronograph
This is the story of GaryG's pursuit, and eventual capture, of a classic vintage watch: a Type 20 “big eye” flyback chronograph manufactured by Mathey-Tissot.
Results for Chronograph
4,212 articles · 18 videos found · page 45 of 141
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Wiki · Guide
El Primero Zenith
Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).
Wiki · Guide
Panda / Reverse Panda Dial
Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.
Wiki · Guide
Telemeter Scale
Chronograph scale converting flash-to-sound time into distance. WWI artillery-spotting origin; vintage Longines / Lemania / Heuer.
Wiki · Guide
Pulsometer Scale
Chronograph scale reading heart rate in BPM after counting 15 or 30 pulse beats. The 1920s-60s doctor\'s watch standard.
Quill & Pad
SJX Watches
Insight: The Modern Performance Chronograph Movement
High-end chronograph movements of today tend to have in common a vertical clutch and column wheel. Such “performance” chronographs are typically also automatic, and practically every high-end watchmaker, from Audemars Piguet to Vacheron Constantin, has its own take on the modern “performance” chronograph. The chronograph movement as we know it today is actually a fairly recent invention. Despite being common in today’s chronograph constructions, the vertical coupling, or at least its concept, is decades-old. The Pierce cal. 130/134 launched in the 1930s is regarded as the first commercially available wristwatch with a vertical clutch. There are examples of even older stopwatches that relied on crude forms of the vertical clutch, but most were either prototypes or small-batch production. But the large-scale use of the vertical clutch only started in the late 1960s, when Seiko debuted the cal. 6139. Launched in 1969, the Seiko cal. 6139 was a vertical clutch movement produced on an industrial scale. Not only was it among the first-ever automatic chronographs, but the cal. 6139 also was objectively the most advanced amongst them. Compared to the modular construction of the Breitling-Heuer Chronomatic Caliber 11 and the fairly classical architecture of the Zenith El Primero, the Seiko cal. 6139 was endowed with a vertical clutch and a novel construction all around. It was, however, an industrial, no-frills movement at heart. The one that started it all – the cal. ...
Fratello
Hot Take: The New Nezumi Tonnerre Monochrome Chronograph
Stockholm-based Nezumi Studios has been in business since 2011 and making affordable, traditionally designed watches since 2015. The focus is on sporty pieces, such as divers, GMTs, chronographs, and field watches. Now a new variant enters the collection. The Tonnerre Monochrome chronograph, with its classic color scheme, is sure to be a hit. Nezumi’s watches […] Visit Hot Take: The New Nezumi Tonnerre Monochrome Chronograph to read the full article.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer’s latest Formula 1 Chronograph celebrates Red Bull’s 20 years of F1 dominance
Decked out in Red Bull livery colours, this limited edition marks Red Bull Racing's 20th season in Formula 1.The post TAG Heuer’s latest Formula 1 Chronograph celebrates Red Bull’s 20 years of F1 dominance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look - Hanhart Brings Back the 415 ES Chronograph (incl. Video Review)
German watchmaking brand Hanhart has etched a commendable place in watchmaking history for itself, primarily through its very good stopwatches and chronograph watches. While most attention goes to the 417 ES, the vintage-inspired pilot’s chronograph with its red-marked fluted bezel, red pusher and bicompax dial layout, there’s plenty more to the brand than just that. […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Review
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe used to be seen as something like a younger sibling to the classic Fifty Fathoms but after more than a decade in production (of the current iteration, at least) I would now classify it as the more modern sibling. The clean lines and sleek angles work particularly well in what is typically the bulkier category of diver chronographs, let alone flyback chronographs. But, the Bathyscaphe Chronograph Flyback Chronograph seen here, done in a ceramic case and green colorway, manages to exceed expectations and defy any baggage or preconceptions the category may bring with it. One thing you won’t get from the images alone is just how lightweight the watch is, due to its black ceramic case. Ceramic is one of my favorite materials for a watch case (in addition to titanium) not just because of the weight but also the scratch resistance that comes with it. It also looks great, especially contrasted against that wonderfully vibrant green used on the dial and bezel here. Divers' chronographs are a particular challenge because, well, operating a chronograph underwater presents some serious water-resistance issues. That said, Blancpain is confident in its assertion that the chronograph can safely be activated underwater. And for those not familiar, a flyback is significantly more complex than a typical chronograph because it does not have to be stopped before resetting. While we’re on the topic, the F385 caliber deserves some love because it ...
Time+Tide
The Hz Watches HZ.02 Chronograph worships quartz with staggering value for money
Minimal, elevated and unashamed of its meca-quartz movement, the HZ.02 Chronograph delivers on all possible aspects of value.The post The Hz Watches HZ.02 Chronograph worships quartz with staggering value for money appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Unveils a Stunning Full Pink Gold Reverso Tribute Chronograph
Compared to its yellow and white cousins, rose gold has a way of being both polarizing and under-the-radar simultaneously. Love it or hate it, you can’t really deny the strangle-hold that this colorway had on millennial Instagram feeds circa-2015. Thankfully, it’s gotten a bit more grown-up in recent years, most notably in the latest iteration of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph. Now, you may be thinking: Brett, you idiot. We already know there’s a pink gold Reverso Tribute Chronograph. And you’d be correct. But now, the Swiss watchmakers have taken it one step further with a full pink gold reference. Instead of just the case being in 18k (750/1000) pink gold, the dial, movement bridges, applied indexes, and pin buckle will also have a rosy hue to it. This color especially complements the Art Deco aesthetics of the watch, giving it just the slightest upgrade to the model without veering too far into modernity. Having been around since 1931, it’s one of those classic designs that needs very little improvement (and even less of an introduction). First designed for polo players, as the flip-action of the case added a little bit of protection for the crystal during a match, it has since become one of the most iconic silhouettes in horology. It has all the charm of, say, a Tank, but the bit of movement gives it just something more, I find. And that something more is best attributed to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s continued minor upgrades that still keep the le...
Worn & Wound
Fast Cars, Street Racing, Las Vegas and the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph in Pink
On November 24th, the weekend before Thanksgiving, the Las Vegas strip comes alive with the Formula One World Championship. Street circuits have a different vibe to them than the purpose-built racetracks. Especially in Vegas, the parties and excitement are next level. High rollers are comped with luxury suites, as they watch the drivers navigate the myriads of casinos at high speed on the notoriously traffic jammed streets of the Vegas strip. Enter TAG Heuer, with a pink Monaco chronograph in a DLC-coated titanium case. In my opinion, it is a perfect symbolic watch for Vegas night street racing – delivering the big wrist presence energy. Last month Formula One and LVMH signed a ten-year partnership deal worth a billion dollars. TAG Heuer, owned by LVMH, is already a sponsor of the Red Bull Racing team and the Monaco GP. With Rolex now no longer a sponsor, TAG Heuer could possibly become the face of Formula One beginning next season. You can already see the presence of LVMH’s core luxury brands at the races, with bottles of Moët on the podium and monogrammed Louis Vuitton trophy cases. Having established that LVMH has beaucoup bucks, let’s move on to discussing the Monaco chronograph. If you remove the pink elements from this Monaco, it is a serious and technical piece. But the pink makes it more fun and commands the spotlight. I may as well be describing the Formula One drivers. TAG Heuer has a similar watch in their current catalog with blue and yellow accents,...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Jaeger-LeCoultre's New Reverso Tribute Chronograph In Pink Gold Gets A Solid Gold Movement
A year out from the release of the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph, this new limited release adds a lot of punch (albeit at a significantly higher price).
Worn & Wound
Studio Underd0g Introduces the Third Generation of the 01SERIES Chronograph
I had the privilege of writing about the last Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Salm0n release for Worn & Wound in September. Serendipitously, Studio Underd0g was in Montreal the following week with the RedBar traveling road show. It was a real treat to see and handle their watches in person finally. They even had one of their Pizza watches and their Moser collaboration. The latter was quite exquisite, as was the new Salm0n, but part of me hoped that Studio Underdog wasn’t moving upscale, leaving behind what got them there in the first place: affordable, whimsical chronographs that make you smile when you look down at your wrist. When I learned that Seagull had announced a new minimum order quantity of 10,000 units for their ST-19 series movements, I became concerned about Studio Underd0g’s most popular model, the 01SERIES. This worry was heightened by the brouhaha that followed the collaboration with Moser and the decision to use Sellita-based movements in their 03SERIES. Fear not, as Studio Underd0g has successfully contracted Seagull to create an exclusive and enhanced version of their caliber called the ST-1901B. This reaffirms their commitment to providing mechanical chronographs priced under $1,000. For those unfamiliar with the history of the ST-19 column-wheel chronograph movement, its origins are Swiss. In 1961, Venus sold its machinery, tooling, and blueprints for the Venus 175 caliber to the Tianjin Watch Factory. They then upgraded the original 17-jewel movement to ...
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Meca-Quartz Praesidus Type H-75 Chronograph
Praesidus is one of those brands I have quickly come to love. It focuses on introducing vintage-inspired military watches with unique stories. The brand has a knack for finding remarkable military stories and using them as inspiration for its timepieces. The latest addition to the growing lineup is the Praesidus Type H-75 Chronograph. This watch’s […] Visit Hands-On With The New Meca-Quartz Praesidus Type H-75 Chronograph to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Brellum Introduces a Smaller Version of their Duobox Chronograph
Sébastien Muller, a fourth-generation watchmaker, founded Brellum in 2017. Unlike many new brands, they did not pursue crowdfunding but adopted a more traditional approach. The first model released by Brellum was the Duobox, which was covered by Worn & Wound here. Since then, we have reported on several other releases by the brand. However, despite this coverage and similar attention from other outlets, Brellum does not appear to have the same visibility or market presence as many competitors. That is the impression I have, at least. Since 2017, they have quietly expanded into multiple product lines, exhibiting strong and distinctive brand coherence. They have successfully established their brand identity in such a way that their models are instantly recognizable as Brellum watches. In an industry as prolific, diverse, and prone to imitation as ours, achieving a high level of brand consistency is more challenging than one might expect, particularly if your designs are conservative. However, their watches do possess some flair, and all feature high-grade chronometer-certified movements. For 2024, Brellum is introducing a smaller version of their most popular model, the Duobox, along with a new chronograph movement in their collection. Introducing the Duobox 39 Chronometer Limited Edition. This watch is essentially a 39mm version featuring subdials at the 3, 6, and 9 positions. Many consider this arrangement more aesthetically pleasing than the standard ETA/VJ7750 dial layo...
Monochrome
First Look - The Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Speedster Limited Edition
This isn’t the first Belisar Chronograph Speedster from Union Glashütte, as models like the Limited Edition Electric Blue and Limited Edition Yellow were inspired by vintage German sports cars and rallies as well. The latest model by Union Glashütte features an asphalt grey dial with a red stripe, mimicking the colours of a specific Porsche […]
Monochrome
News - Seagull Drastically Limits Supply of the ST-19 Chronograph, but not for Studio Underd0g
While widely known as a China-made movement, the Seagull ST-19 chronograph has always been well-accepted by the watch community. It looks good, it has a tried-and-tested architecture (well, of course, being a copy of an old Venus 175), it has a classic combo of column-wheel and horizontal clutch and, mostly, it made it possible to […]
Time+Tide
The Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads refreshes Czapek’s classically modern high-beat chronograph
Czapek makes its classical chronograph more sporty with a new dial texture and a tachymeter scale.The post The Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads refreshes Czapek’s classically modern high-beat chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look - The New Tutima Mara Safari Chronograph
Tutima, founded in 1927 in Glashütte, earned its wings with its famous 1941 Flieger flyback chronograph. Following the destruction of its manufacture and eventual relocation to the West, in 1984, it resumed its flight path with chronograph ref. 798, the official pilot’s watch for the German Air Force and NATO. Returning to Glashütte in 2011, […]
Fratello
Glashütte Original Introduces A New SeaQ Chronograph And The PanoLunarInverse
Glashütte Original has come with two new watches featuring bold, bright dials. The new SeaQ Chronograph Silver Screen is a sporty addition to the regular catalog. For those interested in a dressy limited edition with a guilloché dial, consider the PanoLunarInverse. Are you ready to check out both? With these latest models, Glashütte Original introduces […] Visit Glashütte Original Introduces A New SeaQ Chronograph And The PanoLunarInverse to read the full article.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Remembers Ayrton Senna with Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon
Legendary Formula 1 champion Ayrton Senna was a longtime TAG Heuer ambassador up until his death in 1994. On the 30th anniversary of his passing, the Brazilian driver is coming back to the fore with TAG Heuer unveiling the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna just in time for the premiere of the Netflix series Senna. Based on the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport, the Senna edition is presented in titanium, carbon composite, and the colours of the Brazilian flag. It bears the driver’s emblem on the carbon composite and hour register at nine, while the case back depicts a helmeted Senna. Senna himself frequently wore the TAG Heuer S/el ref. S25.706C multi-function, which will also be seen in the upcoming television series Initial thoughts TAG Heuer is in some ways an underdog – because of its many affordable offerings, its higher-end models sometimes don’t get enough attention. The Carrera Dato “Glassbox”, for instance, is a vintage-inspired but original design that’s appealing and powered by an in-house movement. The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon is an integrated chronograph with automatic winding, plus a flying tourbillon, albeit an industrial movement. The big and bold styling isn’t the retro-inspired design that Heuer enthusiasts appreciate, but the Senna edition is executed well and priced right. Personally speaking, the Senna edition is not my style - there are too Senna elements in the design, unlike the low-key regular-production version. However...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Lorier Olympia Chronograph
No Windup Watch Fair would be complete without Lorier. Since the brand’s introduction six years ago, they have become a fixture of the show and a consistent hit among attendees. Seriously, anyone who dropped by Center 415 this past weekend will know just how hard it was to even get to the Lorier booth. The big draw for the brand this week was their latest release; a new chronograph they’re calling the Olympia. In the lead-up to the show, I got to spend some time with the new watch, and with Windup behind us and the Olympia now available to everyone, it seemed like the right time to share my thoughts. Before we get into the specifics of the watch itself, it’s worth taking a moment to consider where this new model will sit in the Lorier catalog, and what it’s doing there. The short answer is that the Lorier Olympia is taking the place of the immensely popular Lorier Gemini. That watch, which was first unveiled at Windup Watch Fair in New York City a full five years ago, was a mid-century inspired bi-compax chronograph powered by the Seagull ST19 hand-wound movement. $899 Hands-On: the Lorier Olympia Chronograph Case Stainless Steel Movement SII NE88 Dial White Lume Yes Lens Acrylic Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 50 meters Dimensions 39 x 46mm Thickness 13.8mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty Yes Price $899 I’ve always felt that the Lorier Gemini (and the Lorier Gemini SII) represented a serious step forward for Lorier. The introduction of t...
Worn & Wound
The Best Chronograph Watches for Beginners Under $1,000
When time really counts - whether you’re speeding around a race track, plotting a navigational course, or timing the beats of a patient’s heart - you need a stopwatch. At one point, the function of a stopwatch was completely separate from that of a wristwatch. Enter the chronograph. Adding a stopwatch compilation - that is, a feature beyond telling the time - to a traditional watch was revolutionary when it was invented in the nineteenth century. Today, they are one of the most popular types of watches amongst enthusiasts for their storied heritage and visual appeal. (As Omega will have you know, they’ve even been to the moon.) But for many enthusiasts, they can feel out of reach - mechanically complex, they require significantly greater purchase and service costs. Luckily, there’s an alternative: quartz. Quartz chronograph movements circumvent those two major shortfalls, allowing for greater reliability and reduced cost. With that, here are some of our favorite affordable chronographs for beginners. Should you see anything you like, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. When time really counts - whether you’re speeding around a race track, plotting a navigational course, or timing the beats of a patient’s heart - you need a stopwatch. At one point, the function of a stopwatch was completely separate f...
Fratello
Hands-On: The New Depancel Allure Chronograph MecaQ 36mm
Depancel has been inspired by 1970s car-racing designs since 2018. The new Allure Chronograph MecaQ in its reduced 36mm size extends this connection even further. Not only are the red and orange hues found on the three sub-dials and the tachymetric scale quintessentially 1970s, but the integrated bracelet also reinforces this feeling. Depancel Allure Chronograph […] Visit Hands-On: The New Depancel Allure Chronograph MecaQ 36mm to read the full article.
Fratello
#TBT The Unobtanium Gallet Multichron 12 Decimal Chronograph
The Gallet Multichron 12 Decimal is as rare as a hen’s teeth, with only three examples known before this one. Watch purists may not accept this one because I managed to put it together from old parts. Still, everything is genuine and correct for the period. First, I encourage you to read Mike’s eight-year-old story […] Visit #TBT The Unobtanium Gallet Multichron 12 Decimal Chronograph to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Albishorn Introduces the Type 10 Chronograph
Less than two months have elapsed since Albishorn made its debut, but the brainchild of Sébastien Chaulmontet is back with the Type 10, an “imaginary vintage” prequel to the Type 20 pilot’s watch made famous by Breguet. Available with black or green textured dials, the Type 10 features a proprietary manually wound monopusher chronograph movement with an unusual layout that differentiates it from other Type 20-inspired watches. Though not a limited edition, the Type 10 will be produced in small batches of just 25 watches in each livery. Initial thoughts Conceptually, I like the idea of “imaginary vintage” – the brand’s tagline – because it liberates the design from the constraints of the past and avoids coming off as a copy or homage. While I don’t like every detail of the Type 10, there’s a lot to be excited about, especially as a preview of what might be coming next from the fledgling brand. The Type 10 is powered by the proprietary ALB02 M, a manually wound chronograph movement that, like the Maxigraph, shares some of the architecture of the ubiquitous Valjoux 7750. But to call this a cal. 7750 would be to miss the numerous refinements implemented by Dr Chaulmontet that result in a slimmer movement with, reportedly, a more pleasant pusher action. The Type 10 retains many of the best features of the Maxigraph, including its case. Interestingly, the case is not quite identical; the Type 10’s case is slightly thinner on account of its manually wound ...
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Debuts Entry-Level Chronograph with Massena Lab
Continuing with affordable complications, H. Moser & Cie.’s latest is the Endeavour Chronograph Compax, a collaboration with Massena Lab. The most affordable Moser chronograph, the new Endeavour is powered by an in-house calibre with an added chronograph module. Loosely based on Moser’s 1940s pocket watch chronographs, the Endeavour Chronograph has a “Compax” layout with twin registers, luminous Arabic numerals, and a historical Moser logo. Though the retro design is atypical for Moser, the dial and case are still in classic Moser style, with the dial sporting a “funky blue” gradient finish. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common but Moser does them sparingly, mostly sticking with its signature minimalist, contemporary designs. The Endeavour Chronograph is the brand’s first vintage-inspired release outside of its Heritage collection. The Endeavour Chronograph is executed well, and affordable for a Moser chronograph. It costs less than half the Streamliner chronograph that’s equipped with the innovative Agenhor calibre. Because of the entry-level pricing, h0wever, the Endeavour Chronograph is constrained in certain ways, most notably in terms of the movement. Though the base calibre is Moser’s in-house automatic, the chronograph comes via a Dubois-Depraz module. It’s still a competent technical solution, but not as sophisticated as an integrated chronograph (and an in-house integrated construction would not be CHF25,000). Vintage styling The Endeav...
Time+Tide
H. Moser and Massena LAB collaborate on the mid-century Moser-inspired Endeavour Chronograph Compax
The '50s-inspired chrono comes with a few expected irreverent touches.The post H. Moser and Massena LAB collaborate on the mid-century Moser-inspired Endeavour Chronograph Compax appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The new Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie “Crossroads” Chronograph
Ready for Watch Time New York, Czapek released a new version of their Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph which they christened as "Crossroads".
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Lorca Model No. 2 Chronograph (Live Pics)
A chronograph with mid-century vibes makes for an impressive follow-up from the young New York brand.
Fratello
Pre-Owned Spotlight: Shopping For A Deliciously High-End Chronograph
It has been a while since I published a Pre-Owned Spotlight, so I figured I should return in style with watches I can only dream of owning and wearing. Today, I will go on a pretend shopping spree for a pre-owned, high-end chronograph. Do I need a pre-owned, high-end chronograph? Yes, I do, thank you […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Shopping For A Deliciously High-End Chronograph to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Insight: The Advantages of a Vertical Clutch Chronograph
The vertical clutch has become the de facto standard in modern chronograph movements thanks to its mechanical and practical benefits. The widespread and varied use of the vertical clutch is illustrated by the many recent movements that employ the mechanism, ranging from the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to the Breitling B01 to the MB&F; LM Sequential Evo. The proliferation of the vertical clutch is easily explained by its merits. Having explained the construction of a vertical clutch, we now turn to its advantages over the traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling). Figure 1: A simplified cross section of a vertical clutch A vertical clutch serves to transfer energy from the going train of the movement to the chronograph going train, accomplishing this via a vertical motion. Figure 1 illustrates its key parts: a flywheel (yellow) geared to (or even part of) the going train; a cone (grey) that is linked to the chronograph seconds mobile, and vertically tensioned by a spring (red); a pair of pincers (blue) that engage with the cone, lifting or lowering the cone. When the cone is raised and engaged with flywheel, the chronograph starts running, and when the cone drops and disengages, the chronograph stops. One of the most apparent advantage of the vertical clutch is the low kinetic friction generated during coupling and uncoupling of the chronograph, as friction is produced only by the sliding motion of the pincers and the vertical motion of the cone. The Rolex Cosmogra...