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Santos Cartier

The 1904 Cartier watch designed for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont.
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Tank Cartier

Louis Cartier's 1917 rectangular design, inspired by the Renault FT tank.
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Sword Hands

Flat triangular blade hands without a central ridge. Cartier Tank, Santos, IWC Mark XI / Mark XX classical-dress and military signature.
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Richemont

Geneva luxury holding group founded 1988 by Johann Rupert. Owns Cartier, IWC, JLC, A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron, Panerai, Piaget. Largest haute-horlogerie portfolio in the industry.
Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight: Our Guide to All the Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Apr 26, 2024

Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight: Our Guide to All the Watches

Tudor returned to the U.S. market after a lengthy absence in 2013 and the Rolex-owned brand had its first big hit in this modern era with the launch of the Black Bay (originally the Heritage Black Bay), a stylish, sporty divers’ watch, with a plethora of historical details drawn from Tudor dive watches of yore. In 2018, in response to growing consumer demand both for more modest case sizes and for greater period authenticity in vintage-style timepieces, Tudor introduced the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, which proved to hit the sweet spot for many contemporary enthusiasts. Named for the year 1958, in which Tudor released the Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7924, the most clear forerunner to the Black Bay, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight models match that watch’s 39mm case diameter, which is downsized from the 41mm-to-43mm sizes still common to the core Black Bay series. Since its launch, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight has become one of the most popular extensions of the expanding Black Bay collection, and has been the stage for Tudor’s recent (and historically rare) forays into the realm of precious metals. Descended From a Prince: Black Bay DNA The aesthetic origin of the Black Bay starts with the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, released in 1954, one year after big brother Rolex rolled out its own much more famous purpose-built dive watch, also called the Submariner. This original version, Ref. 7922, used the same “Mercedes” handset found on many Rolex models and was water-resistan...

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The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Returns! - Meet The Duometre Chronograph Moon And The Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Returns! - Meet Apr 11, 2024

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Returns! - Meet The Duometre Chronograph Moon And The Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a great watch brand, but “Le Grand Maison” from Le Sentier is arguably an even greater movement maker. There’s an impressive wall in the manufacture that brings to life the brand’s incredible tradition of creating innovative movements in all shapes and sizes. One of JLC’s latest movement highlights was the Duometre concept, which […] Visit The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Returns! - Meet The Duometre Chronograph Moon And The Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual to read the full article.

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IWC is Thinking Very Far Ahead with their New Portugieser Eternal Calendar Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Apr 9, 2024

IWC is Thinking Very Far Ahead with their New Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Watches that do more than a human being is capable of are nothing new. Rolex, Omega, and others make dive watches that are capable of reaching depths that no man or woman could survive. The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is rated to 11,000 meters (which means it’s tested to even greater depths) while the deepest point in the ocean is about 10,900 meters, give or take. That means this particular dive watch can go deeper than any depth possible on the planet. Even that, somehow, feels more practical than IWC’s big release at Watches & Wonders, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar. This is the brand’s first secular calendar, which accounts for leap-year exception rules in the Gregorian calendar that play out over a 400 year span. A calendar complication that no living human will have a chance to observe do its thing in real time is one thing, but it’s the moonphase on this watch that is truly looking ahead: IWC claims it’s accurate to 45 million years. And just think, it wasn’t even ten years ago that the Apple Watch had many in this industry scared that watchmaking could be killed by smart-gadgets. Talk about confidence.  The concept of a secular calendar will be worth a refresher for many, as it’s a truly rare complication that most brands simply don’t attempt given the incredibly long timeframes involved (the last one we discussed in these pages was from indie Furlan Marri). The gist is this: in addition to a leap year every four years, Gregorian calendar needs an ad...

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Effortlessly seamless: Six watches with excellent value propositions that will fit into any watch collection Deployant
Feb 11, 2024

Effortlessly seamless: Six watches with excellent value propositions that will fit into any watch collection

We have often discussed about watches with an excellent value proposition. However, in today’s article, we are taking a step further. We are looking at well-priced timepieces that not only offer great value, but are able to fit seamlessly into any watch collection as well. While these criteria are subjective, we reckon we can takeRead More

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Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon SJX Watches
Richard Mille Jan 23, 2024

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon

The latest iteration of Roger Dubuis’ signature model is the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon. A limited edition conceived for the Chinese Lunar Near Year, the watch features an stylised dragon composed of 27 brass plates that integrate the mythical creature into the bridges of the open-worked movement. Initial thoughts Best known for ultra-contemporary, open-worked calibres, Roger Dubuis (RD) specialises in extravagant designs, including the recent Knights of the Round Table. The Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillion is a prime example of what the brand does best. In contrast to most dragon-themed watches that are either traditional or whimsical, the Excalibur Dragon portrays the dragon in a modern, almost abstract manner. Although the watch is big and bold, attention has been paid to the finer details. The movement is open-worked in typical RD fashion and finished to Poinçon de Genève standards, which means bevelled edges, chambered flanks, and polished pins, amongst other things. And while the pronounced styling might not be for everyone, the Excalibur Dragon is actually more wearable than the typical complicated RD watch. At 42 mm in diameter and a bit over 12 mm high, it is moderately sized relative to much of the brand’s offerings. At CHF195,000, the Excalibur Dragon sits in between its most obvious comparables on the price spectrum, more affordable than Richard Mille and pricier than Hublot. The movement inside is arguably better executed than those of its rivals, t...

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Special Pen Spotlight Worn & Wound
Jan 19, 2024

Special Pen Spotlight

Our love of wristwatches is part of a greater passion for mechanical things of all kinds and sizes. On one end, analog cars capture our imaginations, while on the smaller side, something as simple as a well-executed ballpoint pen can also provide satisfaction. That’s exactly why we are dedicating today’s Chronicle to highlight a few of the pens from the Shop. Here are three we would happily use and recommend to family and friends. All three happen to also be featured in promotions and sales, so hop on over to the Windup Watch Shop Pen Page to discover these – and many more – today. If what you are looking for is out of stock, don’t sweat it; we are constantly checking and restocking pens. And, of course, remember to sign up for our rewards program to earn points with every purchase. Our love of wristwatches is part of a greater passion for mechanical things of all kinds and sizes. On one end, analog cars capture our imaginations, while on the smaller side, something as simple as a well-executed ballpoint pen can also provide satisfaction. That’s exactly why we are dedicating today’s Chronicle to highlight a few of the pens from the Shop. Here are three we would happily use and recommend to family and friends. All three happen to also be featured in promotions and sales, so hop on over to the Windup Watch Shop Pen Page to discover these – and many more – today. If what you are looking for is out of stock, don’t sweat it; we are constantly checking and ...

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Why I’ve Never Owned A Rolex – And Why I Might Yet (Update: I Do Now!) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Nov 26, 2023

Why I’ve Never Owned A Rolex – And Why I Might Yet (Update: I Do Now!) – Reprise

Once in a while on the collector forums, a question is posed: is there anyone in the collector community who has never, ever, owned a Rolex? As a general rule, respondents to these queries tend to express disbelief that such a creature could possibly exist given the quality and ubiquity of the brand’s watches. Well, folks, GaryG is here to tell you that such people do exist, and that he is one of them. How could it be? And then what happened?

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Inside Vortic as they Launch the Colorado Watch Company Worn & Wound
Rado Watch Company Sep 26, 2023

Inside Vortic as they Launch the Colorado Watch Company

The story of American watchmaking is long, complex, and undertold. It’s regrettably easy to consign the period of this country’s history as a global titan in watch production to an appendix in the greater history of watchmaking writ large. But the fact remains that the United States, in the 19th century and well into the 20th, produced millions of timepieces at an incredible pace, developing manufacturing technologies that would scale and improve both here and abroad. We don’t make watches at such a scale anymore, but there is a growing movement in the American watchmaking space that looks to that period as inspiration, and as a reminder that if it can happen once, it can happen again. The Vortic Watch Company is one of the key players in a new age of watchmaking in America, and they’ve just announced a major step forward that redefines what the company does, and where it might be heading in the future.  I have always thought of Vortic as one of the bedrock companies in the burgeoning microbrand space. They are a mainstay at Windup Watch Fairs, and carry many of the hallmarks of the most successful and well established microbrands. The watches are original and purely their own thing, their team is accessible, and the identity of the brand itself is well considered and established. But it would be incorrect to think of them as purely part of the pack, or even as part of an upper tier of the pack given their longevity and success. They occupy a truly unique niche th...

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New: Franck Muller CURVEX™ CX  Deployant
Franck Muller Aug 19, 2023

New: Franck Muller CURVEX™ CX 

Franck Muller With its perfectly curved case and unique contours, the Cintrée Curvex™ is the brand's most distinctive silhouette. The unique and beautiful design of the numerals is also what makes the Cintrée Curvex immediately recognisable. Today, we present a redesigned case called the Curvex CX where the sapphire crystal extends all the way to the bracelet, giving much greater visibility to the dial. Furthermore, the bezel which is separate from the case, allows beautiful two-tone treatments.

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Marnaut Returns with their Refined Dark Surge 300 Diver, a Proper Dressy Tool Watch and a New Showroom in an Exotic Locale Worn & Wound
Jun 16, 2023

Marnaut Returns with their Refined Dark Surge 300 Diver, a Proper Dressy Tool Watch and a New Showroom in an Exotic Locale

The last time we caught up Mario Jutronic and his Croatia-designed microbrand, Marnaut, the collection featured a pair of capable divers with a distinct dial inspired by a creature of the Adriatic Sea. Marnaut has been quiet in recent years and after a stint in Asia, Jutronic has returned to his homeland, marking the watch brand’s resurgence. Sometimes a change in scenery is what the soul needs, and you know what they say, there’s nothing better than home cooking. Now, Marnaut is looking to pick up right where they left off with a more refined version of their flagship Dark Surge 300 diver and the launch of their brand new Safe Harbour 100 collection. The newly refined Dark Surge 300 As you’ll find out with all the noteworthy details, all roads lead back to “The Land of a Thousand Islands” in every Marnaut piece. The sea urchin exoskeleton inspired dial, a signature Marnaut design cue and a tribute to Jutronic’s younger days snorkeling in the Adriatic Sea to find these coveted creatures, reprises its format in the updated Dark Surge 300. The dial displays all 47 raised indices in radiating fashion with each one wrapped in a polished surround and filled with C3 SuperLuminova. There’s a certain depth this particular design provides. From above, the space between the top of the surrounds and the surface of its filling is noticeable. A side profile captures the same raised indices in a different manner as they reflect off of the glossy black dial. As a result, le...

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The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years Time+Tide
Brew ing Apr 18, 2023

The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years

The history of timekeeping dates back to whenever the first creature wondered where the sun was in the sky, and the earliest evidence for calendars comes from Babylon and Egypt 5,000 years ago. In all that time, there haven’t been any horological events that are mentioned with as much dread as the Quartz Crisis. After … ContinuedThe post The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Formex Essence Leggera Worn & Wound
Formex Essence Leggera Apr 14, 2023

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Formex Essence Leggera

A big part of the appeal of micro-brands* rests in their ability to exercise a greater level of general creativity to bring a specific vision to life, something we’ve always found value in around here. We’ve seen some pretty sophisticated stuff take shape, from unique hand sets and dials, to wandering hours and composite cases. One brand in particular has proven rather adept at implementing what I have no issues calling exotic engineering solutions to their watches, and that brand is Formex. With “roots in high-end watch manufacturing” that should come as no surprise, and while the brand’s own aesthetic has undergone some pretty wild transitions, they seem to have landed in a cohesive space with their latest generations of watches in the Essence, Reef, and Field collections.  *Okay, Formex isn’t exactly a micro-brand. They are attached to that noted “high-end watch manufacturer” in a way that very, very few brands (large or small) are. This allows them access to engineer solutions for things like quick adjustment mechanisms in a manner that almost zero micro-brands can. Formex is a small (but not really) manufacturer that produces their own watches, which take full advantage of that fact. The micro-brand or small-independent nomenclature doesn’t neatly apply here, but given the price points that Formex tends to play in, I view them along the same lines as more traditional micro-brands the likes of which we frequently discuss around here. $1790 [VIDEO] Ow...

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The MoonSwatch Goes Gold With New Mission To Moonshine Worn & Wound
Omega MoonSwatch Speedmaster gets Mar 7, 2023

The MoonSwatch Goes Gold With New Mission To Moonshine

The tumultuous story of the SWATCH x Omega MoonSwatch Speedmaster gets a new chapter today with the release of the MoonSwatch Mission To Moonshine Gold. If you were hoping a second release within this collection would offer greater availability after lessons learned with the initial launch, you’re in for a surprise. This special edition MoonSwatch, which makes use of Omega’s Moonshine gold in the timing seconds hand, will only be available for purchase today, and only in the cities of London, Milan, Zürich and Tokyo. Get ready for more crazy tik-tok videos circulating the internet.  At a glance, the latest MoonSwatch appears to closely resemble the existing Mission to the Moon, and indeed that appears to be the base at work here, even depicting the moon on the caseback. There is one striking difference, however, and that is the use of Omega’s proprietary Moonshine gold in a specific component. Moonshine gold is a rather unique alloy, consisting of silver, copper and palladium to achieve a slightly desaturated appearance compared with regular yellow gold, and it’s worked beautifully in some of our favorite high-end Speedmaster releases in recent years. Here, the material is relegated to the timing seconds hand of the chronograph. Making a subtle but noticeable impact on the overall appearance. Use of this material lends not only to the name, Mission to Moonshine Gold, but is also relevant to the cities that were selected to host sales of the watch. Each has a conn...

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HBO’s Succession to end with upcoming season 4. Here are past horological highlights Time+Tide
Feb 24, 2023

HBO’s Succession to end with upcoming season 4. Here are past horological highlights

Yesterday, Jessie Armstrong, creator and showrunner of HBO’s hit television series Succession, revealed that season 4 would be the show’s last. He told The New Yorker he remains conflicted about the decision – and we devout viewers are certainly conflicted with whether or not we are ready for the show to end as well. But, … ContinuedThe post HBO’s Succession to end with upcoming season 4. Here are past horological highlights appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Business News: Grand Seiko Opens First Singapore Boutique SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Opens First Singapore Boutique Feb 23, 2023

Business News: Grand Seiko Opens First Singapore Boutique

Grand Seiko has just opened the first of its own boutiques in Asia outside of Japan, which is located at the Marina Bay Sands casino resort in Singapore. Situated along a corridor alongside major luxury watch brands, the store reflects Grand Seiko’s ambitions in positioning itself alongside establishment brands. The inaugural store run by Grand Seiko’s recently-established Asian arm, it becomes the new platform for enthusiasts to experience the brand’s timepieces, including its top-of-the-line complications. It’s the first milestone for Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific, the joint venture set up last year with its longtime retailer in the region, Thong Sia Watch Co. Ltd.  Akio Naito, Chairman of Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific and President of the Seiko Watch Corporation, explained the choice of the city state for its first boutique in the region: “Singapore is home to some of the most knowledgeable and passionate luxury watch enthusiasts in the world, and we are excited to provide them with a more direct interaction with the brand…” Keeping in line with the brand’s philosophy, “The Nature of Time”, the boutique’s interior is modern while sticking to traditional materials and details. The store sports a clean, modern design with warm wood for the floor and cabinets, retaining the subtle, Japanese refinement that the brand is known for.  The boutique is also the place for clients and enthusiasts to learn more about the brand. In particular, it allows them to experi...

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The Best Rolex Watches for Collectors and the Stories Behind Them Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Feb 8, 2023

The Best Rolex Watches for Collectors and the Stories Behind Them

Rolex watches are indisputably some of the most popular and coveted timepieces on the planet, and every watch enthusiast has their own ideas about (and often their own criteria for) what the best Rolex watches are. But how much do you really know about how your favorite Rolex model came about, why exactly it's so special and distinct from all the rest, and in some cases why it is historically significant to the watch industry as a whole? In this feature, we take a tour through nine of the most important and/or interesting Rolex watches, from their original conception to their place in the modern horological canon.  Origins of an Icon The most famous Swiss watch brand in the world was originally not even Swiss: it was founded by a German in the United Kingdom. Hans Wilsdorf (1861-1960), an orphan raised by his uncles in Kulmbach, Germany, learned entrepreneurship and self-sufficiency early in life, and began his career in the Swiss watch industry in 1900 when he started as a clerk at the watchmaking firm of Cuno Korten in La Chaux-de-Fonds, responsible for the maintenance and accuracy of hundreds of pocket watches per day. In 1905, two years after moving to London, Wilsdorf (below) partnered with another businessman named Alfred Davis to establish Wilsdorf & Davis, the company that would become Rolex. Wilsdorf & Davis, based in London’s Hatton Garden commercial district, was founded with a mandate to make reliably precise watches at affordable prices.  In 1914, days...

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[Video Review] Norqain Gets Adventurous With Wild One & Norteq Worn & Wound
Norqain Gets Adventurous Feb 6, 2023

[Video Review] Norqain Gets Adventurous With Wild One & Norteq

I see plenty of discussion around the idea of a GADA watch within the watch enthusiast space, that is the concept of a Go Anywhere, Do Anything watch. Of course, each of us has our own criteria for what the perfect GADA watch must have, but these are generally watches that do a good job of skirting between the boundaries of any specific genre. Ultimately, a watch is what we make of it; clearly not many of us are divers or pilots, yet many of us enjoy watches specifically ascribed to these realms. We’ve seen a growing trend of brands simply labeling their watches in broadly generic terms, like ‘active watch’ or ‘sport watch’ implying it can stand up to the rigors of more average human activities. More walks in the park or sledding with your kids and less diving to 300 meters or calculating fuel loads in an old war plane.  I say all this to set up the discussion around a new(ish) watch from Norqain called the Wild One, a watch which the brand describes as the “ultimate sports watch”. It’s got all the impressive specs you’d associate with modern dive or field watches, like a 300 meter depth rating and a chronometer rated movement, but it’s not being positioned explicitly as a dive watch, or a field watch. It’s a sports watch. For my lifestyle, a GADA watch closely resembles what I’d consider a sports watch, so this billing was good news to me. It should be easy to wear regardless of activity, able to put up with some light wear and tear, be legible, a...

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Just a Minute with Windup Watch Shop’s Italian Leather Straps Worn & Wound
Jan 25, 2023

Just a Minute with Windup Watch Shop’s Italian Leather Straps

Let’s take just a minute with the entire range of Italian made, leather straps available here at the Windup Watch Shop. Hoyt, Roadster, Wyckoff, Degraw, and Sackett come in a wide variety of colors, with finishing that define them: the Hoyt with it’s matte leather and no-stitch design, the Roadster with it’s breathable, rally styling, the Wykoff with it’s pebble grain leather three quarter-stitched accents, the Degraw with it’s full-stitched nubuck upper leather, and the Sackett for that classic suede look with full-stitched accents. Let’s take just a minute with the entire range of Italian made, leather straps available here at the Windup Watch Shop. Hoyt, Roadster, Wyckoff, Degraw, and Sackett come in a wide variety of colors, with finishing that define them: the Hoyt with it’s matte leather and no-stitch design, the Roadster with it’s breathable, rally styling, the Wykoff with it’s pebble grain leather three quarter-stitched accents, the Degraw with it’s full-stitched nubuck upper leather, and the Sackett for that classic suede look with full-stitched accents. The post Just a Minute with Windup Watch Shop’s Italian Leather Straps appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is Now Open SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Jan 13, 2023

The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is Now Open

An annual award that seeks to recognise and support promising watchmakers, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is open for submissions until February 1, 2023. The entry criteria is straightforward: watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from any country who have “independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction”, but professional qualifications or training are not necessary. The prize is a CHF20,000 grant meant to finance tools or a watchmaking project. The contest will be judged by a panel including Francois-Paul Journe himself and Giulio Papi, who will select the winner based on originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on Fpjourne.com from now until February 1, 2023.  

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The ‘do’s and don’ts’ of Octo Finissimo design with Bulgari’s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani Time+Tide
Bulgari s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani Oct 2, 2022

The ‘do’s and don’ts’ of Octo Finissimo design with Bulgari’s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani

Of all the people we get to interview in my line of work, the most interesting people to sit down with are the watch designers themselves. To hear the philosophy behind a design from the creator, provides key insight into the past, present and future of a collection. Unfortunately, by the time I joined the … ContinuedThe post The ‘do’s and don’ts’ of Octo Finissimo design with Bulgari’s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Behind The Lens: Beat Haldimann H1 Flying Central Tourbillon – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jun 25, 2022

Behind The Lens: Beat Haldimann H1 Flying Central Tourbillon – Reprise

In GaryG's view, every successful independent watchmaker has elements of a “house style” that may attract some buyers and put off others, but nonetheless set them apart. And, at the highest level, this style goes beyond “branding” to become an expression of the personality and artistic vision of the creator. Beat Haldimann and his small team distinguish themselves by focusing on technical virtuosity of the highest order as typified by the Haldimann H1 Flying Central Tourbillon.

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