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Results for Pilot Watch

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Pilot Watch

The aviation tool-watch genre. Cartier Santos (1904), the WWII B-Uhr, the French Type 20 flyback, the RAF Mark XI, the Breitling Navitimer.
Announcement: New Faces Join the SJX Editorial Team SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s manufacture as well Dec 19, 2023

Announcement: New Faces Join the SJX Editorial Team

I am pleased to end the year with new additions to the team – Brandon Moore and David Ichim. Both occasional contributors before, Brandon and David will now become regular, exclusive contributors. Brandon’s writings explore the diversity of watchmaking and watch collecting. Amongst his recent stories are a visit to F.P. Journe’s manufacture, as well as its dial- and case-making facility. Brandon also recounted his experience learning traditional engine turning at a guilloche workshop by Nico Cox. And scheduled for January 2024: his story covering a visit to Akrivia’s workshops in Geneva. David’s contributions are more technically oriented, with the most recent being a detailed analysis of the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum that explains why it might be the ultimate F.P. Journe chronomètre. A freshly-eroded remontoir spring at the F.P. Journe manufacture At the same time, Russell Sheldrake will be departing in early February 2024 – we wish him well. Finally, Oliver R. Müller of LuxeConsult is no longer a contributor to SJX Watches. He contributed a handful of articles from 2020 to 2023; these articles are no longer available on the site. Mr Müller is no longer associated with us in any form. Any queries can be directed to us via the contact form.  

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What is Kollokium? The Mysterious Details Behind the Projekt 01 Worn & Wound
Louis Erard since 2020 overseeing Dec 18, 2023

What is Kollokium? The Mysterious Details Behind the Projekt 01

If you frequent certain corners of Watch Instagram, you likely came across a new and somewhat mysterious project last week called Kollokium. They appeared almost out of nowhere with minimal teasing, and presented a watch that you can’t yet buy that is certainly unique. The real story, though, is in the ethos of the brand itself. Part of that ethos is that they don’t actually consider themselves a brand at all, but a “project based platform” that exists to explore alternatives to traditional watchmaking.  It might help to start with the people behind the platform. Kollokium was founded in 2020 by three watch industry veterans: Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi. Emch is perhaps the most well known of the three, and has been leading Louis Erard since 2020, overseeing the brand’s incredible turnaround from through the smart execution of desirable limited editions with interesting collaborators. Nussbaumer is a watch designer who over the years has worked with Louis Erard, Petermann Bedat, and other brands (you can follow him on Instagram here). And Amr Sindi will be more familiar by his Instagram handle, @thehorophile. You might recall that Sindi collaborated on a limited edition release with Louis Erard earlier this year, and you’ll begin to see how these three individuals are all tied together, and the collaboration begins to make a bit more sense as a creative outlet that can exist apart from their respective day jobs.  OK, so, the watch itself. The...

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Bulova Refreshes the Sutton Line with New Rectangular Dress Watches, and a Pair of Mechanical Pocket Watches. Yes, Pocket Watches Worn & Wound
Bulova Refreshes Dec 18, 2023

Bulova Refreshes the Sutton Line with New Rectangular Dress Watches, and a Pair of Mechanical Pocket Watches. Yes, Pocket Watches

Consider the pocket watch. While some may consider this genre of timepiece to be anachronistic, there is something excessively charming about the extended ritual one has when checking the time. While the pocket watch has lost some popularity to its wrist-bound cousin, there appears to still be interest in producing high-quality timepieces with a bit of vintage flair. Or, at least, Bulova thinks so. The watch company has recently released a new series of pocket watches inspired by the distinct and charming Sutton model. Adding depth to the Sutton design language, this new pair of pocket watches seamlessly bridges the gap between old and new and makes the pocket watch – somehow – feel totally modern.  The Sutton pocket watches boast a sleek 50mm polished stainless steel case and a snap case back featuring a vertically brushed finish in both a gold and silver tone option. With a water resistance of 30 meters and a 42-hour power reserve thanks to the 8N24 skeleton movement, these timepieces are a blend of form and function. Each element of the pocket watch is designed to represent the heritage and meticulous detail of Bulova as a brand and the Sutton as its direct inspiration. The bale seamlessly follows the architectural lines of the case, continuing through the chain and adorned with the iconic Bulova tuning fork clasp. Each color option has its own personality that enhances the overall look of the watch itself. The silver reference is paired with blue-tone Roman numera...

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Peek Behind the Curtain at Lego, Baseball’s Biggest Contract, and a Camera Lost Since the 1970s Provides Clues to a Mountain Mystery Worn & Wound
Dec 16, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Peek Behind the Curtain at Lego, Baseball’s Biggest Contract, and a Camera Lost Since the 1970s Provides Clues to a Mountain Mystery

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com “Ghosts on the Glacier” from the New York Times In the New York Times this week there’s an absolutely stunning story, told with words, video, and incredible photographs, about a mountain expedition gone wrong in 1973. Writer John Branch conducted dozens of interviews to get to the bottom of what happened on Aconcagua, the peak in the Andes range that is the tallest in the western hemisphere, fifty years ago. What we already knew was that the expedition took the lives of John Cooper, a NASA engineer, and Janet Johnson, a schoolteacher from Denver and perhaps the group’s most talented climber. The intervening years saw contradictory statements from survivors, shrouding the trek in a layer of mystery. But a recent discovery, Johnson’s camera from the expedition with undeveloped film still inside, has provided new details on the team’s fate. It’s a riveting story with incredible images, and should be at the top of your reading list this weekend.   Jesse Armstrong Talks About the Succession Ending  Succession mania gripped many of us earlier this year, but if you’re still ...

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Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation Save the Ocean Limited Edition SLA055 and SLA057: Diving Deep! – Reprise Quill & Pad
Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Dec 16, 2023

Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation Save the Ocean Limited Edition SLA055 and SLA057: Diving Deep! – Reprise

Japanese watch giant Seiko once again draws upon its many years of experience in the discipline of diver’s watches to reboot a timepiece from 1968 for a new generation. The two Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation Save the Ocean limited edition timepieces are real dive watches made for professional divers and pioneering adventurers, manufactured to weather the most extreme situations under water.

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New Year’s Resolutions Friday: Watches and Fitness Worn & Wound
Dec 15, 2023

New Year’s Resolutions Friday: Watches and Fitness

So you want to set some new fitness goals for the new year and use that as an excuse to shop for new watches, huh? How clever. Just buy an Apple Watch – the end. Just kidding. Now that we’ve gotten the elephant in the room out of the way, you may be surprised to discover that there are solid options for watches that are genuinely useful for active lifestyles and won’t incessantly track your data or ping you. Indeed, having the right watch for the right setting can be a wonderful way to motivate and encourage you as you take on new goals. This is your New Year’s Resolutions Friday Shop Highlights: Fitness Edition. Let’s get into it. So you want to set some new fitness goals for the new year and use that as an excuse to shop for new watches, huh? How clever. Just buy an Apple Watch – the end. Just kidding. Now that we’ve gotten the elephant in the room out of the way, you may be surprised to discover that there are solid options for watches that are genuinely useful for active lifestyles and won’t incessantly track your data or ping you. Indeed, having the right watch for the right setting can be a wonderful way to motivate and encourage you as you take on new goals. This is your New Year’s Resolutions Friday Shop Highlights: Fitness Edition. Let’s get into it. The post New Year’s Resolutions Friday: Watches and Fitness appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Introducing – The New Junghans Meister Fein Automatic Signatur Dress Watches Monochrome
Junghans Meister Fein Automatic Signatur Dec 15, 2023

Introducing – The New Junghans Meister Fein Automatic Signatur Dress Watches

In 2021, Junghans celebrated its 160th anniversary, commemorating the establishment of Erhard Junghans’s watch company in Schramberg in 1861. The brand paid homage to its illustrious history by releasing the Meister Signatur Handaufzug – a collection of three-hand automatic dress timepieces seamlessly blending classical styling with vintage beauty. This series showcased Junghans’s exceptional sensibility for […]

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The Sophomore Effort from Indie Havid Nagan Modernizes a Classic Complication Worn & Wound
Havid Nagan Dec 14, 2023

The Sophomore Effort from Indie Havid Nagan Modernizes a Classic Complication

In the sea of vintage-inspired, sport-watch focused microbrands – with which there is nothing wrong, of course – are a select few brands who seem to have stumbled upon an aesthetic that is uniquely theirs. One such example is Havid Nagan whose 2021 debut model was aptly named HN00. We were impressed with it and covered it here, and today Havid Nagan is back with the follow-up to its opening shot: Introducing the HN01 Lucine, Havid Nagan’s interpretation of, and ode to, the moonphase. So what changed and what hasn’t? The closest thing the two watches share are their cases: The HN01 titanium cushion-esque case keeps the same 40.2mm diameter as its predecessor but has slimmed down from 11.6mm thick to only 10.2mm. Its profile has also been massaged slightly to better accentuate its profile. This is even more impressive when you consider the effort required to fit an entirely new complication module inside. The HN01 Lucine’s powertrain is a Chronode base movement that has been heavily modified to include a moonphase module (which itself has been improved to err only one day from every 2.5 years to every 11.6 years). The module itself, which displays the moon at 12 o’clock, contains two photorealistic moons that float on a “mystery” style transparent sapphire wheel. Havid Nagan has also taken it upon themselves to decorate the movement with hand-applied anglage and additional perlage clouds on the mainplate (both sides) and skeletonized bridges. There is also a...

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Breitling Unveils a New Capsule Collection of SuperOcean Divers Inspired by the Scottish Highlands Worn & Wound
Breitling Unveils Dec 14, 2023

Breitling Unveils a New Capsule Collection of SuperOcean Divers Inspired by the Scottish Highlands

In 2020 Breitling presented their throwbackiest watch to date. Yes, I made up that word. From its distinct concave bezel to its form fitting mesh bracelet, the SuperOcean Heritage ‘57 very much looked the part, yet had a very contemporary sizing of 42mm. Since then, this watch has been offered in multiple color variants, which included a very impressive rainbow colorway that featured a black dial and multicolored hands and indices.  Being so wildly different from their other SuperOcean models, including the standard Heritage line, I do not believe it got the attention it deserved. Despite being 42mm, the Heritage ‘57 was only 9.9mm thick. Its profile was impressive, and the lug thickness matched the bracelet thickness perfectly. It must have been a joy to wear.  Breitling is now introducing four new versions of the Heritage ‘57 dubbed the Highlands Capsule Collection. These new pieces have been downsized to more traditional vintage proportions and many will be jumping for joy at the 38mm diameter and short 42mm lug to lug length, making this one truly unisex. Somehow, they have even managed to shrink the thickness down to only 9.35mm and maintain the 100m of water-resistance. Inspired by the Scottish Highlands, there are four land-and-sea inspired dial colors available: beige, green, mustard, and blue. They all feature stainless steel cases and scratch-resistant ceramic bezels rimmed in 18k red gold. Powering these watches will be the Breitling Caliber 10 (a modifi...

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REVIEW: Hands On With The Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M “Summer Blue” WatchAdvice
Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M Dec 14, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M “Summer Blue”

The 75th Anniversary Seamaster Professional Diver 300M “Summer Blue” may just be the perfect watch for Summer and we’ve taken it out to see if it really is. What We Love The gradient blue dialComfort factor of the rubber strapWears smaller than stats suggest What We Don’t Colourway could limit it’s versatility across the yearThis version on the bracelet, get the rubber!No display caseback on this version Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for money: 8.5/10Wearability: 9.5/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 9/10 This year marks the 75th Anniversary of the Omega Seamaster, and to celebrate, the brand released the “Summer Blue” Collection in one of the most iconic locations, Mykonos Greece. In a unique move, Omega released a Summer Blue variant of each watch in the Seamaster lineup (which you can read our coverage of here) designed to mimic the Aegean Sea, and the deeper the watch’s depth rating, the darker the blue. It’s a cool concept. The Omega 75th Anniversary Summer Blue Seamaster Collection Now it’s Summer here in Australia, it felt timely to take possibly the best-known, and most popular of the Seamster collection, the Diver 300M on rubber strap out and about to see if this is “THE” watch for the Summer. Initial Thoughts The Omega Seamaster Diver isn’t an unfamiliar watch for me. I’ve now owned two of them: an original Seamaster Diver James Bond Quartz, and then more recently, the current SMP300 with the black dial and bezel. You can read my Owners Perspe...

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Experts and Collectors Weigh in on the Return of Universal Genève Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet among them Universal Genève Dec 13, 2023

Experts and Collectors Weigh in on the Return of Universal Genève

Early yesterday morning, news broke in the watch world that was both surprising, and felt inevitable. Universal Genève, the highly regarded and historic Swiss brand that has been effectively dormant for years, will be revived and relaunched by the same ownership team currently steering the ship at Breitling. While the news of Universal finally getting a high profile relaunch isn’t exactly shocking (reviving heritage brands shuttered during the Quartz Crisis has been a favorite pastime in the watch industry over the last decade), we weren’t expecting the Breitling connection. The news (and reaction to it) speaks both to the great affection the community feels for the Universal Genève brand, and to the strength and financial turnaround of Breitling under Georges Kern’s tenure.  Universal Genève has a long and rich history, and has grown significantly in esteem in recent years. They were part of an explosion of interest in vintage watches that began more than ten years ago, but unlike other brands that benefited from increased attention on historic vintage pieces (Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet among them), Universal Genève doesn’t exist as a modern watchmaker in a meaningful way. For that reason, there’s always been a mystique to the brand that can’t really be replicated. We can, and do, compare vintage versions of Submariners, Daytonas, and Royal Oaks to their modern equivalents, and can thus relate to these watches through a modern context or l...

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Roger Dubuis Turns to “Ice and Fire” for the Knights of the Round Table SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Turns Dec 13, 2023

Roger Dubuis Turns to “Ice and Fire” for the Knights of the Round Table

Now the signature watch of Roger Dubuis’ modern-day offerings, the Knights of the Round Table “Titanium Damascus” is inspired by the Arthurian fable. The latest edition is centred on the theme of “ice and fire” – the reference to Game of Thrones is unmissable – and is surprisingly artisanal despite the ultra-contemporary aesthetic. Decorated with blue Murano glass and Limoges porcelain, the dial has 12 knights around a frozen lake – a miniature diorama depicting the knights confronting imminent peril emerging from the waters’ depths – and a case made of a pattern-welded titanium alloy. Initial thoughts The “ice and fire” edition is no doubt catered for a niche audience – and at 45 mm few can wear it easily – but still has a unique appeal. Moreover, it departs from the modern, skeletonised style that’s characteristic of the brand’s automotive-inspired timepieces. It merges artisanal decoration and modern watchmaking – it is big and bold but boasts unexpectedly intricate detailing. The watch encapsulates the Roger Dubuis “hyper horology” ethos in both design and construction, while the dial and movement (which is hallmarked with the Poincon de Geneve) stay faithful to traditional watchmaking and decoration. This Knights of the Round Table is priced at approximately US$374,000, putting it in the same price range as other editions in the series. It is also priced similarly to comparably extravagant watches from the likes of Jacob & Co., bu...

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Rado Brings Back the Anatom, a Lost Classic from the 1980s Worn & Wound
Rado Brings Back Dec 12, 2023

Rado Brings Back the Anatom, a Lost Classic from the 1980s

Over the weekend, Rado dipped into their archives to bring back a lost classic from the 1980s. If you can recall the early 80s (or just have a penchant for watches of this era) you might remember the Anatom. This square cased watch with a dramatically curved case and sapphire crystal has been ripe for repurposing for the last few years – it certainly has some integrated bracelet sports watch notes to it. What Rado has done with this release is take the premise of the watch from the 80s and modernize it using Rado’s contemporary design language. The result is an Anatom that doesn’t look much like the original, but clearly shares some DNA and is unmistakably a Rado.  The most significant difference between the original Anatom and the new version is the more prominent use of ceramic in the present day model. Rado has always been keen to experiment with materials, especially ceramic, but they’ve really leaned into this as part of their brand identity quite heavily in the last few years. Most of the key models in their lineup are either full ceramic, or ceramic in all the important places. That’s where the Anatom fits in. The new version has a PVD coated steel midcase, but the ceramic bezel leaves a large visual impression, and we also get a ceramic crown and a ceramic overlay on the integrated rubber strap’s clasp. The case measures 32.5mm x 46.3mm and is 11.3mm tall. As with the vintage versions of this watch, the case is curved, which in turn means the dial and ...

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Insight: The Breguet Cal. 728 of the Type XX Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet cal 4401/4409 Dec 12, 2023

Insight: The Breguet Cal. 728 of the Type XX Chronograph

With roots in 1950s French military-issue chronographs, the modern-day Type XX Chronographe was originally released in the mid-1990s and is now’s trademark pilot’s chronograph – and also the brand’s entry-level complication. Originally utilising Lemania-based movement in prior generations, the Type XX was entirely revamped, inside and out, with the unveiling of the Type XX Chronograph 2057 and 2067 earlier this year. While the aesthetics have been revised, the most notable upgrade in the new-generation Type XX is a brand-new movement, the cal. 728. The cal. 728 is a high-frequency movement running at 36,000 beats per hour that employs a novel patent-pending flying mechanism as well as an inventive reset system. The release of a completely new, in-house chronograph movement is uncommon, especially one with novel innovations that went under the radar. In fact, the cal. 728 is arguably one of the most sophisticated and advanced modern-day chronograph movements, putting it alongside the Audemars Piguet cal. 4401/4409 and Rolex cal. 4131. As a result, the cal. 728 deserves a closer look. Controlled return The cal. 728 is actually two related movements: the cal. 728 is an automatic, flyback-chronograph movement with three registers for elapsed seconds, minutes, and hours that is inside the three-counter Type XX ref. 2067, while the cal. 7281 is a two-counter version of the calibre found in the military-inspired Type XX ref. 2057. The most novel component of the cal. 728 ...

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Hands-on – The Graceful Rose Gold Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Dec 11, 2023

Hands-on – The Graceful Rose Gold Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction

Moritz Grossmann (a manufacturer named after the founder and director of the German School of Watchmaking) creates some of the most beautifully crafted wristwatches available today, and one of its finest offerings is the Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction, introduced earlier this year. Like the brand’s Tremblage, Hamatic or Benu Heritage models, this watch is rich […]

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Shopping the Windup 2023 Holiday Gift Guide Worn & Wound
Dec 10, 2023

Shopping the Windup 2023 Holiday Gift Guide

It’s over a week into December, and no doubt your holiday shopping is in full swing unless you’re a last minute shopper (we’ll have a blog post for you soon enough too, so stay tuned). For the proactive among us, or even the lost soul who has somehow found your way here trying to shop for the watch fanatic in your life, welcome. The kind folks at the Windup Watch Shop have you covered with our 2023 Holiday Gift Guide. Consider this a guide for a guide, if you will. It’s over a week into December, and no doubt your holiday shopping is in full swing unless you’re a last minute shopper (we’ll have a blog post for you soon enough too, so stay tuned). For the proactive among us, or even the lost soul who has somehow found your way here trying to shop for the watch fanatic in your life, welcome. The kind folks at the Windup Watch Shop have you covered with our 2023 Holiday Gift Guide. Consider this a guide for a guide, if you will. The post Shopping the Windup 2023 Holiday Gift Guide appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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