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Results for Antoine Norbert de Patek

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Antoine Norbert de Patek

Polish-born watchmaker who founded Patek Philippe in Geneva (1839; renamed 1851).

#TBT Understanding The Different Enicar Sherpa Graph Executions Fratello
Nov 7, 2024

#TBT Understanding The Different Enicar Sherpa Graph Executions

I have had the idea for this article at least as long as I’ve known Nico Henke, a German-based collector who we can rightly call an expert on all things related to Enicar chronographs. It’s time to roll up our sleeves and, with Nico’s help, explore the phenomenal line of Enicar Sherpa Graph watches. Maybe […] Visit #TBT Understanding The Different Enicar Sherpa Graph Executions to read the full article.

Louis Erard’s Régulateur with an Engraved, Gilt Dial SJX Watches
Louis Erard s Régulateur Nov 7, 2024

Louis Erard’s Régulateur with an Engraved, Gilt Dial

The Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is a vintage-inspired take on Louis Erard’s signature regulator wristwatch. The “sector” dial has a grained black finish with engraved markings that are gold-plated, bringing to mind vintage “gilt” dials. Part of the brand’s Noirmont Métiers d’Art collection, the new Le Régulateur shares the same case design and specifications with the recent “Grand Feu” Enamel Regulator. Initial thoughts While Louis Erard is best known for its collaboration with independent watchmakers, such as Konstantin Chaykin and Kudoke, it offers a wider range of accessibly-priced regulator-style watches. And the Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is no different. It’s a fresh take on the vintage-inspired “sector” dial, combining the signature regulator display with rose-gilt engraved markings on a grained black dial. Priced at CHF2,900, the Gravé Noir stays within Louis Erard’s typical price range. It stands out from the competition in this price segment with the unconventional time display on a vintage-inspired dial. Like the brand’s other offerings, it is good value. It also shares the weaknesses of Louis Erard’s other regulator models, namely a thick case. Sector dial The Gravé Noir has the same dimensions as the rest of the Le Régulateur line with a simple, polished steel case measuring 39 mm by 12.82 mm. Inside is a self-winding Sellita SW266-1 that sports a rotor with the brand logo but is otherwise no frills. The movement has 38 hour...

Introducing: The New Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 Fratello
Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante Nov 7, 2024

Introducing: The New Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887

Seven years ago, Breguet introduced the flagship model of its Marine collection, the Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887. Two versions debuted in 2017 - one in 18K rose gold with a silver dial and the other in platinum with a blue dial. In 2020, another rose gold version joined the Marine collection, this time, with a […] Visit Introducing: The New Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 to read the full article.

Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe Fratello
Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe Nov 7, 2024

Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe

The new Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe celebrates one of the most taxing sailing races. It’s also the most sustainable watch yet from the Swiss brand. Let’s take a closer look at this sporty and colorful diver. Ulysse Nardin is no stranger to supporting lengthy, challenging races. The Gumball 3000 comes to mind in […] Visit Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward who developed their in-house Nov 6, 2024

Hands-On: the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour

The jump hour is a nearly criminally underrepresented type of watch. These semi-digital mechanical devices simplify time telling through more complex movements, a perfect example of watchmaking’s inherent and lovable absurdity. Their unique displays create different layout challenges, leading to unique and fantastic designs, from the sci-fi Space One to the extravagant A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. As such, a new jump hour is always cause for celebration and temptation. However, the challenge for brands that want to enter the jumping game is a lack of readily available movements and modules. So, what’s a brand to do? For Fears, this is where the power of collaboration comes into play. By teaming up with the industrious Christopher Ward, who developed their in-house jump hour module, the JJ001, back in 2010-11, Fears could access an already proven but exclusive solution. In 2023, they debuted their jump hour as the highly limited Alliance 1 for members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, and in 2024, their follow-up mainline version, the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, which we reported on here. I’m all for watches that provide different and uncommon experiences, whether it be the smooth glide and accuracy of a Spring Drive, the hourly dinging of the Bel Canto, the central minute counter of a Lemania 5100, or the decentralized displays of a regulator. Jump hours stand out even among that crowd by fundamentally changing how time is read. Though most akin t...

Hands-on – Impressions about the new Omega Speedmaster FOiS (Side by Side with the Old FOiS) Monochrome
Omega Speedmaster FOiS Side Nov 6, 2024

Hands-on – Impressions about the new Omega Speedmaster FOiS (Side by Side with the Old FOiS)

The new Omega Speedmaster FOiS (for First Omega in Space) is the perfect example of a watch that’s not particularly spectacular, groundbreaking or innovative. But more often than not, a great watch doesn’t need to be a game-changer. The 2024 Speedmaster FOiS comes in continuity to a concept introduced in 2012, a vintage-inspired watch celebrating […]

Hamilton Introduces the PSR 74, a Period Correct 70s Throwback Worn & Wound
Hamilton Introduces Nov 6, 2024

Hamilton Introduces the PSR 74, a Period Correct 70s Throwback

It was 1979, and I had accompanied my parents to a dinner party. I was six years old, and my parents’ friends had no children. My parents married later in life and came from a generation where children were meant to be seen and not heard. Unfortunately, I am one of those who likes to be seen and heard. However, I was instructed to be on my best behavior, so they set me in front of the television. Noticing that I was bored, our host handed me his wristwatch and said, “Check this out.” He pressed a button on the side of the case, and the display lit up in bright red, showing the time. I had never seen anything like it before. My father’s manual-wind Caravelle watch had a large white dial with Roman numerals and looked like an antique compared to this modern watch. I was captivated, and he let me wear it and play with it all evening. Undoubtedly, that watch made a lasting impression on me. The 1970s were an exhilarating period in design and technology, marked by rapid changes. The quartz crisis impacted the watch industry, prompting companies to innovate. This development created numerous new timepieces, including the noteworthy Hamilton Pulsar Cushion. Introduced in 1974, it boasted a vibrant red LED display that would only activate when you pressed the button on its side. Fifty years later, Hamilton is releasing an updated version called the PSR 74, and they have chosen to maintain its iconic 31mm cushion-shaped case. This design was considered futuristic in the 197...

Hands-On With The Beaucroft Element - Everyday Looks With Tool-Watch Toughness Fratello
Nov 6, 2024

Hands-On With The Beaucroft Element - Everyday Looks With Tool-Watch Toughness

Many, if not most, watch enthusiasts want the best value for money when buying a new timepiece. And it’s normal to want a good deal whether you’re buying a car, a house, or flight tickets for your summer vacation. After all, we work hard to earn our money and want to spend it wisely. We […] Visit Hands-On With The Beaucroft Element - Everyday Looks With Tool-Watch Toughness to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer Fratello
Nov 6, 2024

Hands-On With The Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer

During Geneva Watch Days 2024, we had the opportunity to visit Lederer. The brand focuses on highly technical escapements, which are made by Bernhard Lederer. The new Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer stood out among the various timepieces we saw due to its impressive movement and testing schedule. My colleague Dave Sergeant and I paled […] Visit Hands-On With The Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer to read the full article.

Trying On Some New “Denim” - Hands-On With The Seiko 5 Sports Denham Limited Edition Fratello
Seiko 5 Sports Denham Limited Nov 6, 2024

Trying On Some New “Denim” - Hands-On With The Seiko 5 Sports Denham Limited Edition

The Seiko 5 Sports Denham Limited Edition SRPL35 (or SBSA281) is a limited edition of 2,000 watches. The fundamentals of this fusion watch can be traced back to the famous SKX series, and the details are done in shades of indigo. There are lots of jeans-like hues on the bezel, dial, and strap. And in […] Visit Trying On Some New “Denim” - Hands-On With The Seiko 5 Sports Denham Limited Edition to read the full article.

Farer Reintroduces Its Field Collection With Updated Colorful Dials And A Slimmer Bezel Fratello
Farer Reintroduces Nov 5, 2024

Farer Reintroduces Its Field Collection With Updated Colorful Dials And A Slimmer Bezel

In 2021, Farer introduced its Field Collection. It consisted of three watches, all with the same compact stainless steel case but rather diverse yet colorful dial designs. The common denominator was that they were all inspired by field watches. Now the British-based brand has reintroduced its Field Collection. The Pembroke II, Lomond II, and Exmoor […] Visit Farer Reintroduces Its Field Collection With Updated Colorful Dials And A Slimmer Bezel to read the full article.

From the Grönefeld Brothers, a New Brand, GRØNE, and an Affordable New Watch, the Manueel One Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Nov 5, 2024

From the Grönefeld Brothers, a New Brand, GRØNE, and an Affordable New Watch, the Manueel One

A new brand is the talk of the watch world today, and the latest example of a trend we’ve seen developing over the last several years. GRØNE is the new project from Bart and Tim Grönefeld, the brothers behind the Grönefeld brand, one of the most acclaimed indies in the world. Following in the footsteps of the M.A.D. 1 project, Kurono Tokyo, and others, the brand exists as a way for admirers of a high priced independent maker to buy into the aesthetic and perspective of the brand at a much more affordable price point. The first release from GRØNE, the Manueel One, carries a retail price of just 2,150 Euros. At retail, Grönefeld watches start at around 50,000 Euros and go up from there. They are also very low production, with fewer than 100 pieces made each year.  The Manueel One, according to Bart and Tim, was inspired by a desire to bring their watches to “our our watchmakers, our children, and our friends.” If this sentiment sounds familiar, it’s nearly identical to Max Büsser’s reasoning behind the M.A.D. 1 project, which was initially only offered to friends of the brand, including partners that Max and his team had worked with for years. Like the M.A.D. 1, the Manueel One borrows some aesthetic and design principles from the higher priced watches the brand is known for, but it does so without the serious attention to craft and watchmaking you’d get with an atelier made timepiece. That’s to be expected, of course. Anyone thinking that an order for t...

The Exaequo Melting Watch is a Surrealist Take on Watch Design Worn & Wound
Cartier Crash OK maybe it’s Nov 5, 2024

The Exaequo Melting Watch is a Surrealist Take on Watch Design

If you’ve been paying attention to the world of the Hype Watch over the last few years, you’ve no doubt stumbled upon the hypiest Hype Watch of them all: the Cartier Crash. OK, maybe it’s not the hypiest Hype Watch, but it’s close. In terms of genuine rarity and the Crash’s ability to show up on the wrists of movie stars, recording artists, and top tier influencers with regularity, it’s certainly a big part of the conversation. There are a lot of reasons why the Crash has become so sought after in recent years, but one of them is certainly a movement among the larger watch market to pieces that are, at least on the surface, more unusual, and lead with design. The Crash, then, is really part of the rising tide that is lifting the ship of shaped cases more generally. And that brings us to the Exaequo Melting Watch, an unusual avant-garde design with a shaped case that is, at least in some ways, Crash adjacent, but a small fraction of the cost and quite a bit more approachable.  Longtime enthusiasts might remember the Exaequo Softwatch from the 1990s, which has carried on cult favorite status even to this day. The Melting Watch is effectively the modern rendition of the Softwatch, and has been brought back this year in a well timed bid to take advantage of a movement toward uncommon shapes and designs.  While the possibly apocryphal story of the Crash involves a Tank being accidentally melted in a fire after a car wreck, Exaequo has always proudly touted their w...

Hands On: The First-Ever Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” 16599SAAEC SJX Watches
Zenith powered Daytona Nov 5, 2024

Hands On: The First-Ever Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” 16599SAAEC

One of the most valuable watches to go on the block this auction season is the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” 16599SAAEC. Part of Phillips’ Reloaded auction taking place on November 8, 2024, the Zenith-powered Daytona is the original “Rainbow”, having been produced in 1994, some 18 years before the serially-produced Daytona “Rainbow” was introduced. Like all automatic Daytona models prior to 2000, this Daytona “Rainbow” is powered by the cal. 4030, which is a Zenith El Primero modified by Rolex. But this Daytona is unique in having a singular model reference of 16599 followed by the suffix “SAAEC”, short for saphir arc-en-ciel, French for “sapphire rainbow”. A rainbow history Though the Daytona “Rainbow” is perhaps the most famous gem-set Rolex model today, it took a while to catch on when it was introduced. It debuted as a regular production model in 2012 with the Daytona ref. 116598RBOW in yellow gold and ref. 116599RBOW in white gold. The Daytona ref. 116599RBOW in white gold At launch the Daytona “Rainbow” was not the object of frenzied desire as it is now, but by 2018 it was sought after. And that year Rolex debuted the Daytona ref. 116595RBOW in Everose gold that boasted the upgrade of baguette-cut rainbow indices. The facelift was also applied to the yellow and white gold versions, both of which now sport baguette-cut rainbow indices as well. As with the first generation model, variants with gem-set dials and bracelets also exist. The Day...

What Are The Least Expensive IWC Watches? Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Nov 5, 2024

What Are The Least Expensive IWC Watches?

IWC Schaffhausen is the quintessential example of a watchmaker that set out to become famous for one thing but ended up being famous for something else. Founded in 1868 by American expat Florentine Ariosto Jones, the International Watch Company devoted itself chiefly to luxuriously decorated pocket watches in its early years but when the military needs of a European continent at war came calling in the 1940s, Jones’ firm shifted its production to focus on decidedly no-frills, robust, utilitarian wristwatches for use in the cockpits of planes. Fast forwarding to today, most watch enthusiasts still regard IWC first and foremost as a leader in the pilot’s watch genre. But that wasn’t always the case, and in fact, IWC’s 21st-Century collection is about as diverse as that of any watch brand out there. For a newbie to the brand, however, that diversity — and even the diversity within the vastly expanded Pilot’s collection itself — can prove daunting, especially when attempting to choose which IWC watches offer the price-to-value ratio that would motivate one to pull the trigger on a purchase. In this latest article in our recently inaugurated Price of Admission series, I will attempt to help you make sense of IWC’s modern collection from an entry-level pricing standpoint, homing in on the best models to consider as one’s “first” IWC watch.  PILOT’S WATCHES: IWC Pilot's Watch Automatic 36 ($4,350) It’s appropriate to start our exploration with the Pilot...

Hands-On With The Steel, Black, Green, And Utterly Charming Laventure Transatlantique II GMT Fratello
Nov 5, 2024

Hands-On With The Steel, Black, Green, And Utterly Charming Laventure Transatlantique II GMT

Laventure introduced its Transatlantique II GMT this past June. Since then, the brown versions in steel and steel and gold already sold out. Those models were limited to 99 and 50 pieces, respectively. The black and green version in steel is only limited by the brand’s production capacity. It’s probably the first time that one […] Visit Hands-On With The Steel, Black, Green, And Utterly Charming Laventure Transatlantique II GMT to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Passing Down Our Watch Collections Fratello
Nov 5, 2024

Fratello On Air: Passing Down Our Watch Collections

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we take on another listener-suggested topic and discuss passing down our watch collections or what might happen to our watches as we age. We’re hopefully not near that time, but it’s a subject worth discussing. For our listeners, the watch talk begins at approximately 17 […] Visit Fratello On Air: Passing Down Our Watch Collections to read the full article.

Review: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph WatchAdvice
Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph Nov 5, 2024

Review: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph

With all the talk around Bremont’s new lineup, not to mention the change in direction, we wanted to let the watch do the talking, so we’ve gone hands-on with the all-new Bremont Terra Nova 42.5 Chronograph to see for ourselves! What We Love: The vintage-style numerals The dial is easy to read at a glance The new bracelet design is comfortable and looks great What We Don’t: The watch is on the thicker side, so wears on the larger side Lack of micro-adjust on the clasp and bracelet The lack of a screw-down crown on an explorers sports watch Overall Rating: 8 / 10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Bremont is a brand not without some controversy, well, at least this year when they and CEO Davide Cerrato revealed an all-new brand identity and logo, along with new releases at Watches & Wonders this year. Since then, we have spoken at length with Davide, (stay tuned for that interview in a few weeks), and while time will ultimately let the public see this all come together, the way he describes it, his grand plan makes sense. That being said, whilst the changes took many off-guard, us included, rather than getting involved in the online rhetoric, we thought we would do what we do best – get our hands on the new range and see how the watches are in real life, in the hands and on the wrist. After all, you can never really give an opinion on a piece until you’ve had experience with it and even more so when you can spend consid...

Hands-On With The Adventurous Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” Fratello
Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Nov 5, 2024

Hands-On With The Adventurous Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time”

When Tudor hints at a new watch, the rumor mill starts running on overdrive. Usually, it sparks discussions about great possible additions to the Tudor lineup. How about that for Tudor scooping up ideas for future releases? But this time, the teaser that Tudor released wasn’t too mysterious. With a clip that showed the Marine […] Visit Hands-On With The Adventurous Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” to read the full article.

Louis Erard’s All New Régulateur Gravé Noir Worn & Wound
Louis Erard s All New Régulateur Nov 4, 2024

Louis Erard’s All New Régulateur Gravé Noir

Louis Erard, in a move that I think many who follow the brand will view as somewhat surprising, announced a new watch last week along with the news that their longstanding Excellence collection, which has been the home to many of the collaborative limited editions that have propelled the brand to a new level of notoriety over the past several years, is being replaced. Those watches now fall under a new banner, the Noirmont collection. This collection, in turn, is split up into three distinct subgroups, including the standalone “Noirmont,” “Noirmont X,” which would appear to be where you’ll find Louis Erard’s collaborations going forward, and “Noirmont Métiers d’Art.” This final line is where the brand’s latest release sits, the Régulateur Gravé Noir, which sees Louis Erard applying some traditional finishing techniques and vintage inspiration to a watch that has become a signature for them. To give you a sense of the other watches in the Noirmont Métiers d’Art collection, this is where you’ll find the recent Petite Seconde guilloche pieces, as well as their newer regulator with an enamel dial. The new Régulateur Gravé Noir (we’ll just call it the Gravé from here on out) is, as Louis Erard puts it, a new spin on the classic sector dial. The regulator format, it would seem, would be a natural choice to experiment with the sector layout, and in fact you could argue that just about any execution of a regulator is going to have some sector dial ...

Hands-on – The Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival is (almost) the Real Vintage Deal Monochrome
Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival Nov 4, 2024

Hands-on – The Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival is (almost) the Real Vintage Deal

It might come as a surprise to learn that Favre Leuba is the world’s second-oldest watch company. Founded in 1737 by Abraham Favre in Le Locle, the brand reached a high point in the mid-1960s with its rugged purpose-designed tool watches. Now in the hands of industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann, his “revival and renaissance” strategy […]