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The 1904 Cartier watch designed for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont.
Louis Cartier's 1917 rectangular design, inspired by the Renault FT tank.
Flat triangular blade hands without a central ridge. Cartier Tank, Santos, IWC Mark XI / Mark XX classical-dress and military signature.
Geneva luxury holding group founded 1988 by Johann Rupert. Owns Cartier, IWC, JLC, A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron, Panerai, Piaget. Largest haute-horlogerie portfolio in the industry.
Hodinkee
Amid the hustle and bustle of Watches & Wonders 2024, we hosted a chat that brought Cartier's leadership to the table with some of the brand's most ardent collectors.
Time+Tide
Zach picked two, Jamie picked two, and there was one Cartier release that both agreed was the pick of the litter...The post Jamie & Zach share their top 5 Cartier novelties of Watches and Wonders 2025 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The spring auction season kicks off in less than a week, and while there are many interesting lots worthy of attention, there are a few museum-grade Cartier clocks at Phillips that demand a close look. All made between 1905 and 1940, the most exceptional pieces date to the roaring twenties when Cartier was synonymous with Art Deco extravagance. The lots are spread across two auctions – Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, which takes place on May 10th and 11th, and Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX which takes place from May 23rd to May 25th. There are three important mystery clocks hitting the block, the most significant being portico clock No. 3, along with a handful of artfully engraved jade desk clocks. Rounding out the bunch, an amusing prism clock should keep things interesting for those bidding with smaller budgets. An introduction to Cartier mystery clocks In the early twentieth century, Cartier was on top of the world. England’s King Edward VII had just granted the firm a royal warrant, calling Cartier the “jeweler of kings” and, perhaps more significantly, “The king of jewelers.” But the Parisian firm wasn’t coasting on this praise, and shortly thereafter stunned the world with a clock with hands that appeared to float in space. This ‘mysterious’ effect was achieved by attaching the hands to rotating glass plates that were driven from the edge. The first such clock was the Modèle A, which debuted in 1912. A Cartier Modèle A. Image – Phillips The mystery cl...
Teddy Baldassarre
Inarguably, the Cartier Tank in its many iterations is one of the most significant, easily recognizable, and, ultimately, iconic watches of all time. One can easily spot its quintessential mixing of a rectangular case and simple, legible dial design (most commonly, with Roman numerals, thin sword hands, and the signature Cartier script), out in the wild. It’s a watch that was unisex before unisex was a marketing buzzword across the industry, and since it went into serial production in 1919 has been executed in as many sizes, colors, and materials as one could dream up. Most would agree that the Tank still retains the title of the ultimate rectangular watch in the larger cultural consciousness. While all of the above is true, we are gathered here today not only to wax poetic on the subject of Cartier’s illustrious Tank, but to dive into a somewhat controversial subject - more wallet-friendly alternatives to the Tank. I will go bravely forth into what might be looked upon as a horological faux-pas. Still, given that I am personally subjected to the plight of needing to be different, have a natural hesitation towards what is most popular, and am not afraid to stick to a budget when necessary, I think I am uniquely fit for the task. Additionally, I am of the mind that imitation is the ultimate form of flattery, so you can also feel free to read this as a love letter to the Cartier Tank. Down below, I’ve rounded up some contemporary alternatives to the Cartier Tank ...
Time+Tide
Cartier reopens its boutique in Melbourne in lavish style, and George Russell dons a custom IWC Ingenieur ahead of the Miami Grand Prix.The post Cartier completely transforms Melbourne boutique after nearly a year of restoration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Quill & Pad
Cartier Tank à Guichets: George Cramer hardly dares to say the name out loud. This is the Tank he has always dreamed of handling, but has never been able to do until now.
Hodinkee
In partnership with Cartier, we meet the man behind the Armoury and Drake's, and his Tank Basculante.
Hodinkee
In partnership with Cartier, we meet a world-traveling writer and photographer, and his Tank Louis Cartier.
Hodinkee
All right, we cheated: it's a little more than five.
Time+Tide
This year, we gathered a prominent group of collectors and enthusiasts tucked away inside the Cartier booth to talk all things Cartier.The post What happened at our Cartier Collectors’ Rendezvous appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
I’ve never bought a watch because it was worn by a celebrity. I generally don’t think that’s a wise reason to own a watch, and kind of goes against my general philosophy of collecting as an act of individual expression. Still, there are some watches where the association with a particular person either looms so incredibly large it’s impossible to ignore (the Paul Newman Daytona, I think, falls into this category), and others where the association may not be at the level of a household name, but is nonetheless fascinating and interesting. Duke Ellington and his preference for the Cartier Tank à Guichets falls into this category for me. This is probably not the appropriate forum for an extended discourse on the importance of Duke Ellington to American music and culture, so we’ll do a short version. Ellington is universally regarded as one of the great American artists – he’s responsible for over 1,000 jazz compositions and was active over a 60 year period. Critics and experts in jazz and American music often mention him in the same breath as people like Mozart, which seems like a good place to be. Duke Ellington, wearing a Tank a Guichets So, he’s one of the singular genius artists of his or any era. And, I dunno, it kinda seems like wearing the same watch as that guy would be pretty cool. From the time I started noticing watches on the wrists of notable people, the idea that the Tank à Guichets was Ellington’s choice has been a point of fascination. ...
Fratello
So, a tank is pretty tough, right? How do you make it even tougher? Park it in a casemate! Stick the cannon through one of the tiny embrasures, and you have a fearsome defensive installation. Well, that’s what Cartier did. The mighty Cartier Tank was parked in a bunker, and the result is called the […] Visit Hands-On With The Cartier Tank À Guichets: A Tank In A Casemate to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Wednesday April 2, 2025 5:30 AM: 9Hotel Paquis I’m awake for day two of Watches & Wonders an hour before my (first) alarm, which was probably an hour earlier than it needed to be anyway. Am I refreshed? I am not. My internal clock is still on east coast time, which means if I were back home I’d be settling in on the couch getting ready to stream some movie that I’ve seen a million times and am comfortable falling asleep to. Maybe Prometheus, a favorite among members of the watch media for reasons I can’t quite articulate. 8:30 AM: the shuttle to Palexpo We are at a new hotel this year deeper into the red light district which is the second or third stop on the shuttle line. By the time the shuttle gets to us, it’s quite crowded, standing room only. A shorter trip though, which is welcome. I always find myself wondering who these people on the shuttle are. The answer, almost certainly, is that they are retailers. Retailers are everywhere – they outnumber media by a significant percentage. Watches & Wonders is an important business event for retailers, hence the suits. European retailers are almost always wearing Cartier. American retailers are almost always wearing those sneakers that look like dress shoes. A note on shuttle etiquette: when you board a crowded shuttle, move as deep into the center as possible. Don’t stand by the door – it makes it more difficult for people to board at the next stop. 9:30 AM: Palexpo I’m at a table in a section of ...
Fratello
Welcome to another installment of Exploring Evergreens, a series here on Fratello in which we get our hands on watches that have been around for over a decade - or long enough to feel ubiquitous - and ask ourselves if they’ve managed to stand the test of time. We’ll address whether they’re still relevant, how […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: The Cartier Santos Galbée XL to read the full article.
Fratello
With the dust settling after this year’s Watches and Wonders, it is time to pick our favorites. I spent countless hours preparing release articles, and a handful of watches stuck with me. In my view, these are the best Watches and Wonders 2025 releases. Just like last year, I picked a Cartier. Unlike last year, […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Thomas’s Picks From Angelus, Parmigiani, And Cartier to read the full article.
Fratello
Last week was the second time I attended Watches and Wonders Geneva, and it was almost just as impressive as the first. Palexpo is still an immense venue, and the booths make it look like you’re in a shopping center full of huge luxury watch boutiques. It also still amazes me how many people are […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Daan’s Picks From Cartier, Rolex, Nomos, And More to read the full article.
Fratello
Eckhart Tolle once said, “What a liberation to realize that the ‘voice in my head’ is not who I am. Who am I then? The one who sees that.” While those are wise words indeed, that’s not the question I ask myself. I want to know what kind of Tank I am. I know I’m […] Visit What Kind Of Tank Am I - A Cartier Tank Américaine Or Louis Cartier? to read the full article.
Fratello
The Cartier Santos medium represents, to me, some of the best the brand has to offer. Recently, I spent some quality time with the Santos. Here are my thoughts. Cartier is a watch brand that represents many things to many people. Like Rolex, it has developed a little baggage simply because it has been so […] Visit Is The Cartier Santos Medium An Unexpected Rolex Oyster Perpetual Killer? to read the full article.
Hodinkee
The NSO program is being reviewed and refocused to create "truly exceptional pieces,'' Cartier says.
Time+Tide
We take a closer look at Cartier's best from this year's fair.The post Best of Cartier at Watches & Wonders 2025 – from Tank à Guichets to the leaping Panthère bangle appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Deployant
And we are at Cartier to handle the novelties, and bring you our top highlight from their new releases this year: presenting a reinterpretation of the Tank.
SJX Watches
One of the most distinctive versions of Cartier’s signature rectangular watch, the Tank à Guichets has been revived as part of the Privé collection, joining watches like the Tortue Monopoussoir and Tank Cintree. The last time Cartier had such a model in its catalogue was exactly 20 years ago with the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) iteration. Sporting a crown at 12 o’clock like some historical examples of the model, the Tank à Guichets indicates the time in twin apertures, with jumping hours at 12 o’clock and minutes at six. Measuring a slim 6 mm in height, the Tank à Guichets (or “Tank with Windows”) is powered by a new in-house movement, the cal. 9755 MC. Notably, it will be a regular production model in yellow or rose gold, as well as platinum, plus an asymmetrical or “oblique” model that is limited to 200 pieces. The regular production models (left), and limited edition Initial thoughts The Tank à Guichets was always one of my favourite iterations of the Tank, and the popularity of the preceding version made it almost inevitable that Cartier would revive the design. The new Tank à Guichets is subtly different from the CPCP version, most notably in its slim profile, but still looks and feels correct. The finishing on the case is excellent, particularly on the polished bevels that frame the apertures. The movement, on the other hand, is concealed behind a solid back but is industrial in finish and style. That said, it is an integrated calibre ...
Hodinkee
Cartier's jump hour makes a triumvirate return after a 20-year hiatus (and scratches that vintage itch better than almost anything else).
Worn & Wound
Bremont, Bremont, Bremont. What are we to make of Bremont? It’s been a year now since Bremont first announced their Terra Nova collection alongside a complete corporate rebrand, and while we’ve seen the brand expand the Terra Nova line a few times since then with new colorways and materials, Bremont had - until now, that is - kept the lineup of their field watch fairly restrained. Now, we’re seeing them break away from the trio of models they released last year with a pair of jump hour models; one in bronze, the other in steel. Built around a “unique and exclusive” jumping hour movement developed by Bremont with Sellita, the Bremont Jumping Hour 40.5 Steel and Jumping Hour Bronze are a fun take on what has been a fairly down-the-middle field watch by integrating what is a surprisingly long-standing wristwatch complication. Jumping hour wristwatches have been around since at least the 1920s - Cartier introduced, by way of example, the Tank à Guichets in 1928 - and have remained a constant in the century since. Here, Bremont is offering up two distinct takes on the concept, each in the rough format of the Terra Nova. The stainless steel Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hours 40.5 Steel takes after watches like the Fears Brunswick jump hour, with a traditional sweep seconds hand, and a jump hour and minute window sitting at 9 o’clock. All this is supplemented by a black lacquer dial, with luminous material throughout and the minute track off of a standard Te...
Time+Tide
Cartier brings back one of its most coveted, brutalist designs.The post We go hands-on with Cartier’s new redesign of the legendary 1928 Privé Tank à Guichets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Louis Cartier’s Tank watch, introduced in 1917, marked a before and after in men’s wristwatches. Breaking with the taste for ornately decorated cases, the Tank Normale’s geometric case, inspired by an aerial view of armoured Renault tanks deployed in WW1, was a precursor of the clean minimalist lines of Art Deco. Thanks to its well-executed […]
Revolution
Time+Tide
The Cartier Tressage line-up housed only jewellery until now, when the Watchmaker of Shapes applies its craft to watches.The post Cartier’s sculptural Tressage collection welcomes four delightfully shaped watches (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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