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Eric Giroud

Architect-trained Geneva designer behind MB&F\'s entire HM and LM series, plus Bovet, Manufacture Royale, Greubel Forsey commissions.
Ressence Concludes Seddiqi Partnership with the Type 1 DX3 SJX Watches
Ressence Concludes Seddiqi Partnership Nov 17, 2023

Ressence Concludes Seddiqi Partnership with the Type 1 DX3

At this year’s Dubai Watch Week, Ressence and its Middle East retail partner, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, have unveiled their third and final edition – the Type 1 DX3. This unique timepiece puts a distinctive twist on the minimalist Type 1, featuring a dial inspired by Arabic geometric patterns, echoing the aesthetic of the pair’s past collaborations. Initial thoughts This limited edition for the Dubai retailer resonates with me – and is arguably one of the most outstanding recent watches from Ressence – illustrating the potential to blend modern aesthetics while grounding the watch in the region. It manages to stand apart from Ressence’s minimalist watches, which have been iterated in a multitude of variants to date. The DX3 sticks to the outline of the standard Type 1 Round, but its standout feature lies in the copper-tone dial that’s embellished with captivating rose motifs reminiscent of Islamic art and architecture, and further accented with Super-Luminova that glows green. The Type 1 DX3 retails for CHF23,600, will be limited to merely 35 pieces and accompanied by a copy of Arts & Crafts in Motion, the brand’s first book that’s published jointly with Seddiqi. Considering the dial decoration, this undeniably presents a more alluring proposition in contrast to the standard production models. However one can hope that Ressence will maintain the exclusivity of this design and refrain from replicating it later on. A cloisonné dial with Arabic patterns The DX3...

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Outstanding Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Nov 16, 2023

Outstanding Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ upcoming auction in Hong Kong begins on November 24 and as is now convention, the sale includes a diverse selection of independent watchmaking.  Among the highlights in the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII is the F.P. Journe Coffret 38 – the collection of five watches with 38 mm steel cases made to mark the discontinuation of the brand’s historic case size. Each model in the set is significant in François-Paul Journe’s horological ascent, from the groundbreaking Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite to the meticulously no-frills Chronomètre Optimum, and here each watch is (relatively) accessible and sold as an individual lot. The auction features creations from other notable watchmakers in every price range, including Daniel Roth, Habring², Voutilainen, and a Harry Winston developed by Greubel Forsey. These watches invite exploration into the history and future of watchmaking, and some tell stories of craftsmanship and innovation that captivate.  The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII is scheduled for November 24 and 25. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain I in the sale is the second to be sold publicly in as many auction seasons Lots 815-819: F.P. Journe Coffret 38 set of steel watches In 1991, François-Paul Journe introduced his first wristwatch that had a platinum case 38 mm in diameter – large enough to be unheard of at the time. In comparison, the Patek Philippe ref. 5004 split-...

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A Week In Watches, Ep. 67: G-Shock Turns 40, Ming Goes Gold, & Oris Gets Funky Worn & Wound
Citizen Nov 12, 2023

A Week In Watches, Ep. 67: G-Shock Turns 40, Ming Goes Gold, & Oris Gets Funky

In this episode of A Week In Watches we take a closer look at the some exciting news from Oris, Ming, G-Shock, and more. You may have heard that this year marks the 40th anniversary of G-Shock, something they’ve been celebrating throughout 2023. This week, we got a pair of new watches from the brand as part of the celebration, and they are some of the coolest square cased G-Shocks we’ve ever seen. These watches get ultra-light carbon cases and include a pretty wild colorway that is one of our favorite uses of the color purple in recent memory. Cheers to you, G-Shock, and may we say many happy returns. Elswhere, Ming dabbles in rose gold with a new 37.04 Monopusher Chronograph, that even gets a solid gold dial with a deep guilloché pattern, and it really works. Also opting for warm tones heading into fall we find Oris and Collective Horology with a new Divers Seventy-Five, which embraces a funky set of orange and brown colors across its dial, along with the retro-Arabic numerals. If that’s not quite your think we’ve got something very green from Zenith in a new Chronomaster Sport done with Aaron Rodgers. Big thanks to the sponsor of this week’s episode: Citizen and their new Citizen Promaster Skyhawk watches – with unparalleled functionality and utility. The new release continues Citizen’s focus on style, versatility, and performance for the pilot or aviation enthusiast in their Promaster Air Collection. Discover the new Promaster Skyhawk Collection, for adve...

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Fall is Here: Saying Bye to Bracelets and Hello to Straps Worn & Wound
Nov 7, 2023

Fall is Here: Saying Bye to Bracelets and Hello to Straps

It may be hard to believe, but we’re already well into November as fall is in full swing. Pool parties are giving way to grateful gatherings, and the shorter days usher in a more demure mood. In the same spirit, big and brash bracelet-clad watches are set aside for more modest pieces – often on straps – befitting of the autumn vibe. The Windup Watch Shop is truly your one-stop-shop for all things straps, from NATOs; to rubber; to leather; to steel. Stepping up your strap game and trying new combinations is a tried and true method to keeping your collection feeling fresh. But if a new watch for the season is what you are after, the Shop also has you covered with several leather-paired watches that fit the fall theme and are ready to slip under that cozy sweater you’ve been looking forward to wearing all year. It may be hard to believe, but we’re already well into November as fall is in full swing. Pool parties are giving way to grateful gatherings, and the shorter days usher in a more demure mood. In the same spirit, big and brash bracelet-clad watches are set aside for more modest pieces – often on straps – befitting of the autumn vibe. The Windup Watch Shop is truly your one-stop-shop for all things straps, from NATOs; to rubber; to leather; to steel. Stepping up your strap game and trying new combinations is a tried and true method to keeping your collection feeling fresh. But if a new watch for the season is what you are after, the Shop also has you covere...

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Ophion is Back with the Vesper, Featuring a Design Inspired by Neoclassical Architecture Worn & Wound
Nov 3, 2023

Ophion is Back with the Vesper, Featuring a Design Inspired by Neoclassical Architecture

To this day, one of my favorite reviews that I’ve written for the website is that of the Ophion 786 Velos. Sometimes, you get a watch in your hands and it just kind of blows you away, shifting your perspective about what’s possible in a particular genre or price bracket. It can also subtly change your own taste. I still think about those Ophions fondly, and have been excitedly awaiting new work from the brand. Today, Ophion introduces the 411 Vesper, which feels like a significant step forward for the brand in terms of their ambition and the levels of intricacy introduced into the manufacturing process, particularly with respect to the dial.  The Vesper’s design inspiration comes from an influential work of architecture that was never actually built. The Newton Cenotaph, a conceptual work by the architect Étienne-Louis Boullée designed as a tribute to the English scientist, is dominated by an enormous spherical structure 500 feet tall, surrounded by two circular barriers dotted with cypress trees. Boullée was particularly interested in spherical shapes, and his work includes a study referred to as his “theory of bodies” which asserts that the sphere is nature’s most beautiful and perfect shape.  The Newton Cenotaph Ophion’s new Vesper incorporates many of the key design ideas from the Cenotaph into the watch itself. First and foremost, spheres and circular shapes are everywhere. Not just within the dial, but the case (39mm in diameter, 11.45mm tall) , lu...

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Bell & Ross Looks to the Motorcycle World for their Latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Looks Oct 23, 2023

Bell & Ross Looks to the Motorcycle World for their Latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack

One of my favorite episodes of Seinfeld is “The Chicken Roaster,” the eighth episode of season 8. You probably remember this one: it involves a Kenny Rogers Roasters restaurant opening across the street from Kramer’s apartment, and eventually he switches apartments with Jerry to get some sleep (because obviously the big neon sign is keeping him up all night) which leads to some of the funniest moments in the history of the show (Jerry’s recollection of a late night phone call with Bob Sacamano will always stay with me). But the B-plot is great, too. It follows George and his saga with a Russian hat, intentionally left behind in the apartment of the woman who sold it to him, who of course he tries to date. This is a trick, he explains, to keep her interested. Like a jingle you can’t get out of your head. And that’s kind of how I feel about Bell & Ross. They have worked their way into my brain like a catchy pop song. They’re a mainstream brand that is capable of doing some truly weird stuff, and as someone who spends a lot of time observing and thinking about industry trends, I just find that fascinating. Their latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack, is squarely in the weird category, and a rare collaboration with an outside designer, Sacha Lakic.  Lakic is known primarily for being the founder of Blacktrack, a Luxembourg based maker of custom cafe racers and other motorcycles. The new BR 03-94 takes specific inspiration from his BT-06 motorcycle, which can be seen p...

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IWC Scales Down the Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Mojave Desert SJX Watches
IWC Scales Down Oct 19, 2023

IWC Scales Down the Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Mojave Desert

After recently introducing a pilot’s watch with a fully-luminous dial and the Big Pilot perpetual in white ceramic, IWC continues to grow its aviation-inspired offerings with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Mojave Desert. First introduced as a limited edition in 2019, the sand-coloured ceramic chronograph is now regular production and in a more wearable size of 41 mm. Initial thoughts One of the standouts in the Top Gun collection has been the Mojave Desert with its beige tones – definitely an unusual colour for a oversized sports watch. However, the colour was only applied to larger models to date. The reintroduction of the Mojave Desert in a more compact size, and standard production to boot, is a good thing – though probably not such a good thing for owners of the limited edition version. The smaller case helps with wearability, making this desirable colour combination available to a wider audience. Size aside, there is no major point of difference. The same can be said for price: the new Mojave Desert chronograph retails for US$11,700, mirroring the price tag of the other ceramic chronographs in the collection. A new size, but same style The Mojave Desert chronograph is the latest addition to the “Colours of Top Gun” collection that draws inspiration from the US Navy’s flight school. The colour choice for this model is influenced by the Mojave Desert that surrounds the US Navy’s TOPGUN fighter pilot academy, and its pilots’ distinctive flight...

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The Tissot Sideral is Both a Re-Interpretation and Trendsetter Worn & Wound
Tissot Sideral Oct 17, 2023

The Tissot Sideral is Both a Re-Interpretation and Trendsetter

One of the more adventurous releases from Tissot as of late, the Sideral S is not an entirely new concept; it is a modern reinterpretation of the original from 1971. That watch was a huge-for-its-time 42mm regatta timer whose case was forged from, of all things, bakelite. Rolex 6542 enthusiasts and others know this wasn’t the most durable material, and Tissot has reissued the Sideral – this time in carbon fiber and stainless steel and we have them available now in the Windup Watch Shop. Look closely, though, and you’ll realize this is a watch that not only embodies a few current trends but may set some new ones of its own. In this case (see what I did there?), it’s what’s on the outside that counts. One of the more adventurous releases from Tissot as of late, the Sideral S is not an entirely new concept; it is a modern reinterpretation of the original from 1971. That watch was a huge-for-its-time 42mm regatta timer whose case was forged from, of all things, bakelite. Rolex 6542 enthusiasts and others know this wasn’t the most durable material, and Tissot has reissued the Sideral – this time in carbon fiber and stainless steel and we have them available now in the Windup Watch Shop. Look closely, though, and you’ll realize this is a watch that not only embodies a few current trends but may set some new ones of its own. In this case (see what I did there?), it’s what’s on the outside that counts. The post The Tissot Sideral is Both a Re-Interpretati...

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[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Tudor Black Bay “Burgundy” Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay “Burgundy” I Oct 16, 2023

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Tudor Black Bay “Burgundy”

I don’t look at Tudor in the same way as some of my colleagues. I’ve always liked and admired the brand, and I’ve owned their watches in the past, but for me they come up well short of a brand that I’ve ever obsessed over. They make very good watches, and represent an excellent value in the larger market, but when a new Tudor is released and the entire Watch Internet stops in its tracks to dissect it to the micron, I always feel a little lost. They just don’t inspire a desire to dive into that level of analysis for me. It’s how I feel about ER versus The Sopranos. Both shows I love and find myself rewatching often. I could podcast every week about The Sopranos, but I just don’t have a lot to say about ER.  But when I saw the new Black Bay 41 in burgundy at Watches & Wonders this year, it felt different. It was like the Tudor portion of my brain, which might previously have been lobotomized, was magically activated, possibly for the very first time. It could have been the high of that first meeting of the show, the lighting in the booth, being in an over-caffeinated state, or the promise of those little sandwiches in the press lounge in a matter of hours, but I was in a particularly receptive mood for this watch. I remember it immediately standing out among their entire crop of releases, which had not yet been through the cycle of hype to come. I distinctly recall thinking that the new 41mm Black Bay was going to be the star pupil of this year’s novelties, ...

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Christopher Ward Introduces the Twelve Halo, a Gold Accented and Minimal Take on their Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Oct 12, 2023

Christopher Ward Introduces the Twelve Halo, a Gold Accented and Minimal Take on their Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch

Christopher Ward seems to have gotten some divine intervention with the latest release of theirs, the Twelve Halo. Based on the sporty series that boasts a dodecagonal (that’s 12-sided for those of you who failed geometry, like me) case, the Halo has a luxurious update with a ring of gold around the dial. The gold itself is the perfect accent against the otherwise plain appearance of the watch, showing that simple is sometimes the best. Contrasting against the brushed steel case, the 18-karat gold is a bit of mixed-metal done right. While the choice of either a silver or black dial only adds to the simplicity of the overall offering, meaning nothing is detracting from the Halo’s minimalism. Whether one is picking the silver or black dial, you’re treated to small, intentional design features which tie the whole thing together. Gone is a distracting day-date, indices, or numbers and what you’re left with is a lumed handset and a rose gold logo. While I shudder at the term, one can’t deny that this restraint is quiet luxury in its truest form. Coming in at just 36mm, the Twelve Halo is suitable for both men and women. The exhibition back lets one see the Sellita SW 200-1 automatic movement in action. Both models are available on an integrated steel bracelet with a price tag of $2,555. The Twelve Halo is available now via the Christopher Ward website, with delivery expected in December. Christopher Ward Images from this post: The post Christopher Ward Introduces the ...

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Nomos Brings Back the Classic Club with Some Subtle Upgrades Worn & Wound
Nomos Brings Back Oct 9, 2023

Nomos Brings Back the Classic Club with Some Subtle Upgrades

I’m a firm believer that entry-level models often show the true essence of a brand. It’s the first point of contact for many buyers and, therefore, is a good representation of the design elements, quality, and creativity that define a company’s offerings. This is no different for NOMOS Glashütte’s Club model. The German brand has redesigned the watch in its original colorway, which has been out of production since 2017, with a revamped appearance, while keeping all the beloved elements of the reference intact. The watch itself keeps much of the distinguishing features that have made the Club a classic for those looking for an entree into NOMOS. The open space on the silver-plated dial is complemented by dark gray numerals (a shade darker than its previous iteration) and a broader, longer set of hands. The numerals are also accented with lumed outlines, making it easy to read throughout the day and well into the night. The final touch of the dial is the minute track, which is positioned well into the boundaries of the numerals, making the dial feel that much more open and spacious. It is this combination of upgrades: a brighter dial, larger hands, and lumed numerals, which have made small – yet significant – upgrades to the Club model and has pushed the brand into a new audience set who has been vying to enter into the luxury watch market and just needed the right invitation to do so. This is a handsome watch at just 36mm, making it a great addition to anyone...

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Hands-On: the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic in Rose Gold Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic Oct 6, 2023

Hands-On: the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic in Rose Gold

Something I think about quite a bit in this hobby is the idea that the watches we wear are often just part of a costume that we’re presenting to the outside world. They exist as aspirational symbols of what we’d like our life to be. There’s a cosplay aspect to wearing certain watches that I’m never quite able to shake, even watches I love. I wear, on most days, either a pilot’s watch or a diver, and I don’t fly a plane and I don’t even really like to swim. I wear these watches because I genuinely enjoy them as watches, but I’d be lying if a small part of me didn’t feel like a pretender, a guy asking himself who he thinks he’s kidding with this super tactical pilot’s instrument strapped to his wrist. I’ve never felt that feeling more acutely than in my time with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic in rose gold. This watch, let’s just say, is not in my normal wheelhouse. While I appreciate it aesthetically (in fact, I find it quite beautiful) it’s not the kind of thing I’d choose to wear. But more than that, this watch is part of a micro-genre of watches that is very specific, one that I’m fascinated by, but am personally so far removed from, I am legitimately probably closer to the pilot walking into the US Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor program than I am the dude who this watch was made for.  The Tonda PF Sport Auto is part of a class of watches I think of as “leisure sport,” with a heavy emphasis on the leisure. Th...

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The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon is a great example of artisanal sapphire watchmaking Time+Tide
Oct 5, 2023

The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon is a great example of artisanal sapphire watchmaking

The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon embraces symmetrical and whimsical design. The Purity Tourbillon movement boasts a huge 17mm tourbillon cage that beats at 4Hz. Close inspection of the openwork movement reveals a lot of hand-finished detail. Although it remains quite a niche genre for the wealthy elite, the list of sapphire-cased watches is quickly growing. … ContinuedThe post The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon is a great example of artisanal sapphire watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Richard Mille RM 53-02 Oct 2, 2023

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Following our look at notable complications and artisanal masterpieces on offer at Sotheby’s Important Watches I in Hong Kong, we now consider the independent watchmaking highlights in the sale that takes place on October 7. The offerings in the sale range from establishment names like Philippe Dufour – on offer is a Simplicity 37 mm in platinum made after the original run – to newcomers like Pascal Coyon with a Besançon Observatory-certified chronometer. And the highlights also include the headline lot of the auction, the extravagant Richard Mille RM 53-02 in blue sapphire crystal. Important Watches I happens on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here.  The Richard Mille RM 53-02 Lot 2116: Pascal Coyon Chronometre  One of the most affordable offerings in the sale is the Pascal Coyon Chronometre, a watch inspired by the French watchmaker’s career as a watch and clock repairer in Bayonne. Though based on a Unitas 6498, Mr Coyon’s hand-wound movement bears a strong resemblance to classical 19th-century pocket watches from the likes of Longines. While the movement is still a Unitas 6498 at its core, it has been dressed up with frosted bridges and a snail cam regulator, amongst other things. Being one of his earlier watches, this has a plain, 42 mm polished steel case with a stepped bezel and a white lacquered dial with red numerals for “12” and “60”, complemented by Breguet-style hour and minute hands. This ...

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Hands-On: the Isotope Hydrium California Worn & Wound
Isotope Hydrium California Isotope initially Sep 28, 2023

Hands-On: the Isotope Hydrium California

Isotope initially piqued my interest two years ago with their uniquely design-forward Hydrium “Will Return” dive watch. This timepiece was intentionally crafted to resemble the iconic “Will Return” sign often seen in shop windows, and its “Why not?” approach left a lasting impression on me.  Fast forward two years, and Isotope, founded in 2016 by José and Joana Miranda and headquartered in England, has expanded its Hydrium line with the Hydrium California. This watch, like its predecessors, boldly defies the conventions of typical dive watches, drawing inspiration from Isotope’s own heritage as much as from classic dive watches from the past century.  $1115 Hands-On: the Isotope Hydrium California Case Stainless steel Movement Landeron Automatic Dial Black Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap FKM Rubber Water Resistance 300 meters Dimensions 40 x 48mm Thickness 12.9mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $1115 When the Hydrium Califonia first arrived the first thing I noticed was its case. The starkly uniform bead-blasted finish, which reduces the risk of unwanted reflections that may attract predators during ocean adventures according to Isotope, immediately let me know I could expect this quirky dive watch to be utilitarian not only by design, but also in practice.  I eagerly strapped it to my wrist and, despite its generous thickness of 14.9mm, including the double-domed Sapphire Crystal, was pleased to learn that it wears true to its 40 mm diame...

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Hands-On: the D1 Milano Polycarbon Sketch Worn & Wound
Seiko VJ21 Dial Matte black Sep 25, 2023

Hands-On: the D1 Milano Polycarbon Sketch

At this point in my watch collecting journey, most of my purchases are considered. They are often the result of months, or even years, of planning, or simply waiting until the planets align and the rarest of pieces comes up for sale. However, I’m gleeful to see that sometimes I can still be blindsided by a new release and find that my fingers have entered my card details even before my brain has realized what’s happening. That’s how the Polycarbon ‘Sketch’ from D1 Milano ended up in my watch box. It’s cheap and cheerful, but is it good value? After a close examination, I’m still happy. Looking at D1 Milano’s online catalog of watches, most play heavily on the current integrated-bracelet sports watch trend, and it would be fair to say that some models are influenced rather heavily by other luxury watches. The Polycarbon series, for example, features an 8-sided bezel and overall vibe that definitely brings a specific, more expensive, watch to mind. What has drawn me to this particular variant though, is not the likeness it bears to anything else, but the immediate impact it has and individuality it displays. It just so happens that the case, bezel and bracelet lines on show here, whether original or not, make a great canvas for the sketch effect that D1 Milano has embellished it with. $195 Hands-On: the D1 Milano Polycarbon Sketch Case Polycarbonate, soft-touch coating Movement Seiko VJ21 Dial Matte black Lume None Lens Mineral Strap Polycarbonate, soft-touch...

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Tool/Kit: Camping in Sweden with Lydia Winters and the New Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition Worn & Wound
Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition Sep 22, 2023

Tool/Kit: Camping in Sweden with Lydia Winters and the New Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition

By way of a quick introduction, hi! I’m Lydia Winters, an American living in Sweden for the past 12 years. Come hang out with me and my sambo (a perfect Swedish word for a live-together partner), Vu Bui, as we explore the Swedish forest with the new Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition. I’m wearing the 37mm black dial on a bracelet and Vu’s wearing the 41mm white dial on the brown leather strap. There’s also a blue dial that I can’t wait to see in person. I didn’t grow up in a camping family… wait, scratch that, I didn’t grow up in an outdoors family, except for the beach. As a native Floridian, most of my outdoor life revolved around the Gulf of Mexico and the beach. Moving to Sweden 12 years ago began not only my work career but also my love of the great outdoors, but backpacking has stayed in the periphery of my comfort zone. It’s quite infrequent that Vu gets me to head out for an overnight trip. Luckily for him and me, I couldn’t resist a chance to take the new Khaki Field Expedition for an overnight adventure. So, off to the forest we went. Let the expedition begin! The post Tool/Kit: Camping in Sweden with Lydia Winters and the New Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Diving Lake Michigan with Jason Heaton and the New Benrus Ultra-Deep Worn & Wound
Sep 20, 2023

Diving Lake Michigan with Jason Heaton and the New Benrus Ultra-Deep

Within sight of the Chicago skyline, I stepped off the gunwale of the 47-foot Seaquest II into Lake Michigan and deflated my buoyancy wing. We’d left the dock in Hammond, Indiana under a moody sky and spitting rain, but after an hour’s cruise, the clouds parted and the lake’s surface flattened out. The sun cast filtered shafts of “God light” onto the skyscrapers in the distance, the last view I saw before descending 50 feet into the blue-green depths. I followed the yellow mooring line down to where it was tied in to an auger on the lake bed. And then, there it was: a ship’s anchor, standing proud of the mud. It was coated with algae and quogga mussels but was unmistakable, looking like the archetypal sailor’s tattoo, with a five-foot shank and one fluke pointing to the surface it hadn’t seen in over a century. An intact anchor on a shipwreck is a thrill for any diver and if I wasn’t already chilled from the 59-degree water I’d have gotten goosebumps. To mark the moment, I looked down at my left wrist. The Benrus Ultra-Deep diving watch nestled under the cuff of my thick glove read 9:14. The Great Lakes, a chain of five huge inland seas that hold over 20% of the world’s freshwater, have provided a connected passage for cargo and passenger vessels since the early 19th century. Ships have carried coal, iron ore, lumber and grain between the American states and Canadian provinces that border the lakes, as well as beyond to Europe through the St. Lawrence...

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Urwerk Conceives a Sci-Fi Tower Clock for Charity SJX Watches
Urwerk Conceives Sep 19, 2023

Urwerk Conceives a Sci-Fi Tower Clock for Charity

With a towering height of 1.62 m and hefty weight of 40 kg, the one-of-a-kind Space-Time Blade created for Only Watch 2023 undeniably embodies the quintessential Urwerk style in both form and concept. The Space-Time Blade is the only sci-fi, retro-electronic clock in an auction dominated by mechanical wristwatches, proving that Urwerk always does things its own way. Even then the Space-Time Blade is hardly a clock in the conventional sense. It eschews minute and hour hands, and even the outline of a conventional standing clock. Instead it illustrates Urwerk founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei’s fascination with the captivating and vintage technology of Nixie tubes. It will be sold by Christie’s during Only Watch, the charitable auction held every other year to raise funds for research into a cure for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. Initial thoughts It’s easy to see this in the corner of a Brutalist home, alongside other examples of interpretive modern art, but that is not what makes this piece interesting from a construction or technical standpoint. Instead it is the Nixie tubes and their display, along with the multiple timekeeping functions that provided reason for pause. The many and varied ways in which this piece can measure and display time speak to the heart of Urwerk’s philosophy. Known for polarising pieces that push the line between timekeeper and sculpture, Urwerk has created its most abstract timepiece to date with its singular take on the standing ...

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REVIEW: Hands On With The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Jaeger-LeCoultre rel... Sep 17, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph

Jaeger-LeCoultre released their latest Polaris Chronograph a couple of weeks ago, and we had the first look, and quite frankly it’s stunning. Now we’ve gone hands on to review the blue dial variant! What We Love Super comfortable on the wristBeautiful textured lacquered dialLegibility and lume both day and night What We Don’t Clasp is a little fiddly with no push buttonNon-screw down crown makes me nervous on WRMovement isn’t as finished as you would expect Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 9/10 The Polaris is a quiet hit for Jaeger-LeCoultre in my opinion, and the new Chronograph released at the start of September was a nice surprise to most. We were lucky enough to get our hands on it before it’s release, and you can read the details on it here. However, being able to wear it around for a week for review really gives you a sense of how this watch really wears and looks on the wrist. In short, the blue dial pops, but recently, we also compared it to the grey dial variant, call it curiosity to see which is better – my initial thoughts are… it’s a very hard choice! The new Polaris Chronograph in Blue and grey dials The Design Let me say this first. The JLC Polaris Chronograph needs to be seen and felt in person. Photo’s really don’t do it justice, especially the texturing and gradient through the centre and main part of the dial. Both the blue and grey variants differ in this aspect, and whilst we’...

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Tudor Unveils the US Navy-Inspired Pelagos FXD Ref. 25717N SJX Watches
Tudor Unveils Sep 14, 2023

Tudor Unveils the US Navy-Inspired Pelagos FXD Ref. 25717N

Tudor’s release on September 14th lived up to the anticipation, particularly for enthusiasts who appreciate vintage-inspired design. The Pelagos FXD ref. 25717N is a variant of the model developed together with the French navy and shares the same specs, including a 42 mm titanium case. But the new FXD “Single Red” pays homage to the brand’s historical affiliation with the US Navy, which turned to Tudor for military-issue timepieces starting in 1950s. Initial thoughts While this may be fairly unsurprising given the nature of Tudor’s catalogue, the new FXD is well executed and ticks all the right boxes for those who love military-inspired tool watches. The no-nonsense black dial with the “single red” marking instantly evokes well-known dive watches of the 1970s. The watch itself is not new. It’s essentially identical to the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” from in 2021, but with black dial and bezel that gives it a more purposeful look. It’s a predictable evolution of the model given Tudor’s emphasis on its historical ties with navies and other professional organisations. Like the original FXD in blue, this has a clean dial that allows the design to be unobstructed. Notably, the designers should be commending for going with pure white Super-Luminova on this, instead of faux-vintage lume that might have looked too affected. However, its designers could have been even more striking by dialling back the text on the dial even more, perhaps having just the ...

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Bell & Ross Refines the Case of their Iconic BR 03 Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Refines Sep 13, 2023

Bell & Ross Refines the Case of their Iconic BR 03

Before I was really into watches as a collector or enthusiast, I can remember walking into a Tourneau store in a mall in the Boston suburbs and being drawn to the strange, square cased watches displayed prominently as I entered the space. I’m sure I was just killing time before a movie or meeting a friend, but somehow those watches, made by a brand I had no knowledge of, imprinted something on me. I don’t remember any of the other watches I encountered that day, or any other, at that same Tourneau. But the Bell & Ross BR 03 made an impression. It wasn’t even that I liked it – I just found them so unusual and distinctive. And for someone on the outside of the watch world looking in, these watches were an early point of fascination.  The BR 03, in my view, is one of the truly iconic modern watch designs for this very reason. It pulls in the curious window shopper in a way that a traditionally shaped watch can’t. Now, Bell & Ross is updating the BR 03 with a subtly reworked case. In these Bell & Ross supplied images, it’s honestly hard to see the changes (I’d really like to see one side by side with an older version of the watch), but based on the tale of the tape, it should make for an improved and more ergonomic wearing experience, which is no small feat for a watch that is known (and loved) for its inherent, charming, ungainliness. The big change is a full millimeter reduction in the case size, going from 42mm to 41mm. On a square watch, that’s going to ma...

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This New Citizen Promaster Altichron Can Read an Altitude Higher than the World’s Tallest Peak Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Altichron Can Read Sep 12, 2023

This New Citizen Promaster Altichron Can Read an Altitude Higher than the World’s Tallest Peak

Citizen has introduced a new Altichron to the Promaster family of watches. This series has always struck me as kind of gleefully over the top, even more than many of the crazy dive watches we talk about in these pages frequently. The whole idea behind the “Promaster” branding is to show Citizen’s prominence in designing watches that can take on land and air in addition to sea, but sometimes we get caught up in the dive watch aspect of it all given the importance of watches in that niche to the culture of contemporary watch collecting. The Altichron is, effectively, a souped up field watch made with mountaineering in mind, and it has a number of features that should make athletes who spend their time at higher elevations quite happy. For the rest of us, there’s still a lot of cool tech to gawk at, which is a perfectly acceptable way to enjoy a watch like this in my book.  The key feature of the Altichron is its altitude sensor, which allows for measurements up to 32,800 feet above sea level (Mt. Everest, for the record, is a little over 29,000 feet above sea level). Also, just in case you’re the multidisciplinary sort, you’ll get an accurate reading up to 300 meters below sea level as well. The altitude meter is read via an inner dial for the first 900 meters above sea level, and then via a subdial at 9:00 for higher altitudes. The Altichron is also equipped with an electronic compass that shows your heading via a gauge around the dial’s perimeter. The layout...

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Review: the Circula DiveSport Titanium Worn & Wound
Laco Sep 11, 2023

Review: the Circula DiveSport Titanium

Roughly 20 years ago, I was tasked by my editor and Baume & Mercier to review the latter’s latest, toughest tool watch. I know what you are thinking. Baume & Mercier and the words “tool watch” do not go together. Well, for a brief period, the appropriately named Capeland XXL was just that. This was a large titanium dive watch, with a striking yellow patterned dial, with oversized hands and a helium escape valve. It was such a departure from their norm and boy, was it a super cool watch.  Fast forward to today and I have another super cool titanium, yellow dialed diver to review, the Circula DiveSport. Circula has been around since 1955, founded by the current owner’s grandfather Heinz Huber. Based in Pforzheim, Circula shares a hometown with Aristo, Laco and Stowa, as well as renowned case maker Fricker GmbH. Circula has been rejuvenated as of late, with Cornelius Huber now at the helm. Their previous models leaned heavily on classical designs from yesteryear and just like the Capeland XXL, the new DiveSport is a departure from the norm. From the design to the materials, this one is fully modern and has its sights on the future.  The DiveSport’s multi-faceted grade 2 titanium case measures 42mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug length of only 48.5mm and it is 13.4mm slim (+0.5mm with the crystal). Why did he say slim, you may be asking, as 13.4mm does not sound that thin. It is if you consider the 500m depth rating! Also, when you combine the 133g weight (with 2 l...

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