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Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - Lex’s Picks From Studio Underd0g, Casio G-Shock, And Maurice Lacroix Fratello
Maurice Lacroix Apr 5, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - Lex’s Picks From Studio Underd0g, Casio G-Shock, And Maurice Lacroix

With several Fratello team members having already done cherry-picking, I knew that finding the best watches under €1,000 would be no mean feat. Still, I gave it a go and decided to go with funky stuff - lighthearted watches. I thought it was best to try to find some stuff that would look cool. I […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - Lex’s Picks From Studio Underd0g, Casio G-Shock, And Maurice Lacroix to read the full article.

The New Ferdinand Berthoud Of 2024 Is Now Customisable? Revolution
Ferdinand Berthoud Apr 5, 2024

The New Ferdinand Berthoud Of 2024 Is Now Customisable?

In 2020, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud introduced its second collection, the Chronomètre FB 2RE. This timepiece signaled a significant milestone for the Maison, featuring the first round case, a display with three central hands, and notably, the debut of a movement with a double regulation system-a fusion of fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second “remontoir d’égalité”. This […]

Sotheby’s is hosting a ‘Rough Diamonds’ watch auction soon in Geneva INSIDE A CAVE Time+Tide
Apr 4, 2024

Sotheby’s is hosting a ‘Rough Diamonds’ watch auction soon in Geneva INSIDE A CAVE

A watch auction hosted inside of a cave? Surely not. Well, do not be so sure because this is 100% actually happening next week in Geneva. Dubbed by Sotheby’s as the ‘Rough Diamonds’ auction, the sale will be hosted underground at the wine cellar La Corne à Vin (47 bis Rue de Lausanne, Geneva) on … ContinuedThe post Sotheby’s is hosting a ‘Rough Diamonds’ watch auction soon in Geneva INSIDE A CAVE appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Two New Moser Pioneers Announced Just Before Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
H. Moser Apr 4, 2024

Two New Moser Pioneers Announced Just Before Watches & Wonders

Watches & Wonders hasn’t started yet, but I think we can safely identify the first honest to goodness trend: brands exhibiting at the show announcing new watches ahead of the big event. We saw it last week with Czapek, and now H. Moser is following suit with what I think can be fairly described as a Watches & Wonders apéritif. The Swiss indie has just announced a pair of watches in their Pioneer line in two distinct shades of green. One is a long awaited new entry in the Pioneer’s 40mm case, and the other is the latest example of Moser’s signature “Concept” dial.  First up is the Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green. If you’re unfamiliar with Moser’s Concept dials, they are devoid of markings and visible branding on the dial, and a showcase for whatever color, texture, or design Moser is interested in showcasing for a given watch. It’s a design principle that has become Moser’s signature, and while it’s certainly not for everyone, fans of the brand admire their commitment to showing off what are often vibrant colors and letting a stripped down aesthetic speak for itself.  The Citrus Green colorway has a dramatic green fumé effect, with the shade at the center appearing yellow while growing to a darker green shade as we move to the perimeter. This reference is in the larger 42.8mm steel Pioneer case, which is water resistant to 120 meters. The Streamliner notwithstanding, the Pioneer is the closest thing Moser makes to a true sports watch, and...

Urwerk’s Spacetime Blade Concept Gets a Limited Release Worn & Wound
Urwerk s Spacetime Blade Concept Apr 4, 2024

Urwerk’s Spacetime Blade Concept Gets a Limited Release

Few brands have the ability to surprise quite like Urwerk, but it makes sense that such an unconventional watch brand would be the one most likely to leave us all scratching our heads in wonder and confusion (in the best way possible, of course). Their latest creation, the Spacetime Blade, is based on a design that made its debut last year ahead of the scuttled Only Watch auction. The clock, outfitted with a series light bulbs lit by Nixie tubes, provides pretty much all the timing information you could want, and plenty you didn’t know you needed, all in a very Urwerk way.  What we have here is a glass blade that stands 1.7 meters tall and weighs 20 kilograms. It’s an imposing, large object, made up of a total of 1,446 components. It stands on a large bronze crown that’s been polished and buffed to Urwerk’s preferred level of patina, and provides a base to a large glass dome that protects a series of vertically aligned Nixie bulbs, eight in total.  Each bulb contains a total of ten steel cathodes that allow it to illuminate any digit, 0 through 9. The glass is blown by hand and the electrical elements are meticulously assembled by hand as well, using tweezers, in each of the bulbs. According to Urwerk, each bulb consists of 88 parts.  Once the blade is assembled and the whole thing is turned on, it’s capable of displaying a variety of information via the Nixie bulbs. The Spacetime Blade has several different modes, and can read the time in hours, minutes, and ...

Introducing – SpaceOne is back with an Accessible Wrist-Sized Tellurium Monochrome
Vulcain Apr 4, 2024

Introducing – SpaceOne is back with an Accessible Wrist-Sized Tellurium

Last year, the bold and ultra-modern SpaceOne Jumping Hour emerged from the visionary mind of Théo Auffret, a young Parisian independent watchmaker celebrated for crafting intricate timepieces like the Tourbillon Grand Sport and Guillaume Laidet, the man spearheading the revival of Nivada, Excelsior Park and Vulcain. And it’s now time for the duo to present its […]

SpaceOne Introduces the Tellurium, an Affordable Astronomical Complication in a Futuristic Package Worn & Wound
Apr 4, 2024

SpaceOne Introduces the Tellurium, an Affordable Astronomical Complication in a Futuristic Package

One of my absolute favorite discoveries at last year’s Watches & Wonders wasn’t even at Watches & Wonders, but at a presentation at the Beau Rivage hotel by Guillaume Laidet and Théo Auffret. Their new brand, now known as SpaceOne, was launching, and the watch they presented, a spaceship shaped bit of imagination with an impressive jump hour complication designed by Auffret, kind of blew me away. As a sci-fi nerd, I’m an easy mark for this kind of thing, admittedly, but even taking the futuristic, space stuff out of it, I was just incredibly excited to see this kind of purely imaginative watchmaking happening at such an accessible price point. It struck me at the time as being part of a wave of somewhat gonzo watch designs that take their cues from the highest of high horology, but bring the barrier to entry way down.  One year later, SpeceOne has released their follow up, a watch that I think in many ways is even more impressive than the Jump Hour. The Tellurium continues down the cosmological path set forth by the debut (and the brand name) with an astronomical complication that heretofore would be hard to imagine in a watch retailing for just under 3,000 EUR. This watch, in addition to telling the time and featuring a calendar with the date and month, tracks the moon’s orbit around the earth and the earth’s orbit around the sun via the heliocentric tellurium that is the core of the watch.  This is an admittedly more simple version of a planetarium watch tha...

SpaceOne Introduces an Affordable Tellurium SJX Watches
Richard Mille Planetarium-Tellurium Apr 4, 2024

SpaceOne Introduces an Affordable Tellurium

Founded last year by a pair of Frenchmen, entrepreneur Guillaume Laidet and independent watchmaker Theo Auffret, SpaceOne fashions itself as a maker of modular complications assembled in Paris that are make accessible thanks to Swiss movements and external components sourced elsewhere. Its second creation, the Tellurium, is an affordable – but heavily simplified – heliocentric tellurium watch priced at just €2,999, or about US$3,250. Initial thoughts A tellurium is a kind of orrery, a mechanical model of the solar system, which shows the planets’ positions relative to the Sun. Traditional orrery are kinetic sculptures driven by complex gearings and usually large format, desk clock size or larger. The Richard Mille Planetarium-Tellurium of 2007, for instance, was the size of a small table. There have been wristwatch-size versions of orrery, most famously Ulysse Nardin’s pair of the Tellurium Johannes Kepler and Planetarium Copernicus, which were faithful miniaturisation of orreries and conceived with scientific accuracy in mind but were priced accordingly. The SpaceOne Tellurium is a heavily diluted of the same. It shows only the Sun, Earth and Moon, each with minimal motion. The Earth, for instance, does not rotate on its own axis. Rather than being a miniaturised true orrery, this is an heavily simplified representation presented with sci-fi style. This simplified approach brings with it the inconvenience of a non quickset calendar. So setting the calendar from...

#TBT Orfina Golden Flame Double Automatic Twin Special Ref. 6938 Fratello
Apr 4, 2024

#TBT Orfina Golden Flame Double Automatic Twin Special Ref. 6938

It looks like a joke, and it sounds like one too, but it’s a serious piece of wrist equipment. The name Orfina Golden Flame Double Automatic Twin Special sounds like a headline from a cheap tabloid - a watch you couldn’t take seriously today. But looking at it closely, there are so many distinct details […] Visit #TBT Orfina Golden Flame Double Automatic Twin Special Ref. 6938 to read the full article.

Introducing – The Hautlence HLXX, Celebrating The Brand’s 20th Anniversary With the Original HL Movement Monochrome
Hautlence HLXX Celebrating Apr 4, 2024

Introducing – The Hautlence HLXX, Celebrating The Brand’s 20th Anniversary With the Original HL Movement

Independent watchmaker Hautlence, which made its debut 20 years ago in Neuchatel, has always been known for its modern approach to watchmaking with creative designs, exposed mechanics and innovative ways of displaying time. Now a sister company of H. Moser & Cie, the brand made a comeback a few months ago with modernized, streamlined aesthetics […]

First Look – The Zesty H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Concept Citrus Green (incl. Video) Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Concept Apr 4, 2024

First Look – The Zesty H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Concept Citrus Green (incl. Video)

The H. Moser & Cie. Concept series, distinguished by the sheer elegance of minimalistic yet very elaborately finished dials, expands to include a watch in a sporty Pioneer case. The result is beautifully controversial, perhaps as intended by the brand, for the athletic, almost brutal, and adventure-ready case gets paired with a very funky-coloured dial. […]

Introducing – Urwerk’s Extraordinary SpaceTime Blade Reenters Earth’s Atmosphere Monochrome
Urwerk s Extraordinary SpaceTime Blade Apr 4, 2024

Introducing – Urwerk’s Extraordinary SpaceTime Blade Reenters Earth’s Atmosphere

A lightsaber, wielded by Force-sensitive characters in Star Wars, is a luminescent laser sword powered by a kyber crystal. Shaped like a lightsaber, Urwerk’s SpaceTime Blade cuts through all timekeeping mechanisms with its unique display and countless timings related to our planet delivered via glowing orange Nixie bulbs. Marking its reentry into our atmosphere, Urwerk’s […]

The Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Returns SJX Watches
Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Returns Apr 4, 2024

The Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Returns

In production for decades and one of Seiko’s most affordable mechanical watches, the SNX series has been updated and refined to create the Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Series. According to Seiko, the SNXS was inspired by “EDC”, short for “everyday carry”, a catchall phrase for useful items that can be carried on your person. Consequently, the SNXS is concise, practical, and very accessible. Available in three distinct dial variants, black, blue, and ivory, the SNXS  features a clean dial made more interesting with an orange seconds hand, patina lume, and a contrast-colour flange. The case is an evolution of the historical SNX design and matched with a steel bracelet. And like most Seiko 5 models, the SNXS has an automatic movement with a day-date function. Initial Thoughts It is safe to say that Seiko has a dominant position in the sub-US$500 segment, with the Seiko 5 leading the way. They are robust and reliable, so much so Seiko is something of the gateway drug to the world mechanical watches. Although simple in execution, the fit and finish of Seiko 5 in general is impressive for the price point. The Seiko 5 is available in a myriad of flavours, from the Seiko 5 Sports Bruce Lee Edition to the Seiko 5 Sports Street Fighter V. The SNXS Series, however, adopts a different spirit with its low key and vintage-inspired aesthetic. The design is simple but detailed nicely with contrast finishing on the case surfaces. It does without a sport bezel, though the baton hands and ...

Fratello Talks: Waitlists, Limited Editions, And Things That Make A Watch Worthwhile Fratello
Casio ns added value Apr 4, 2024

Fratello Talks: Waitlists, Limited Editions, And Things That Make A Watch Worthwhile

Welcome to a fresh new episode of Fratello Talks. Today, RJ and Lex join Nacho for a varied chat centered around the topic of things that make a watch worthwhile. From waitlists to limited editions and even watches for special occasions, added value is not really a matter of price. Does a reasonable wait add […] Visit Fratello Talks: Waitlists, Limited Editions, And Things That Make A Watch Worthwhile to read the full article.

Five Great Gifts for New Grads Worn & Wound
Apr 3, 2024

Five Great Gifts for New Grads

May is around the corner, and with it, a fresh set of grads ready to take on the world. A thoughtful graduation gift can be a particularly memorable token, and what better way to celebrate than with a special watch or accessory? In this Chronicle, we consider five fantastic gifts that a graduate would be thrilled to receive. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available for consultations and to answer any questions you have. Congrats grads! May is around the corner, and with it, a fresh set of grads ready to take on the world. A thoughtful graduation gift can be a particularly memorable token, and what better way to celebrate than with a special watch or accessory? In this Chronicle, we consider five fantastic gifts that a graduate would be thrilled to receive. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available for consultations and to answer any questions you have. Congrats grads! The post Five Great Gifts for New Grads appeared first on Worn & Wound.

I Bought a Pre-Owned Omega Speedmaster Reduced that’s as Old as Me Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster Reduced that’s as Apr 3, 2024

I Bought a Pre-Owned Omega Speedmaster Reduced that’s as Old as Me

It is often warned, within the watch enthusiast community, that pre-owned (especially bordering on vintage) watch collecting is a monster all its own - sitting at the end of booby-trapped temple, with spring-loaded spike walls and perilous pits waiting to consume another person tempted by the pretty shiny things inside. And yet, occasionally you manage to traverse the ledge, dodge the poison barbs, and slide under the closing stone door, grabbing your fedora in the nick of time. Sometimes things just go right, but giving yourself the space to be vigilant always helps. Does anyone else hear a John Williams score in their head? Just me? Like many a watch collector before me, I’ve been yearning for an Omega Speedmaster since I first found out about its heroic travels. It went to the moon, I believe. I dunno, you’ll have to double check me on that. Anyway, I would take almost weekly trips to the AD just to try it on. Each visit went the same way. I’d approach the Omega counter, point to the Speedmaster Professional, and say “you know which one.” Sapphire sandwich because I love marveling at the movement. My AD would stand there while I carefully inspected it. As I did the week before, and the one before that. I’d tell him, “you can go help the guy over there if you need to,” knowing damn well he can’t leave me alone with the watch, but it made me feel better to say it to establish that I am, yet again, not ready to buy it. We’d chitchat, I’d leave, and ...

What You Should Know Before Buying the Rado Captain Cook (Updated for Teddy Baldassarre
Rado Apr 3, 2024

What You Should Know Before Buying the Rado Captain Cook (Updated for

Since it hit the market less than a decade ago, the Rado Captain Cook has rapidly built an avid following among watch enthusiasts while also casting a brighter spotlight on its parent brand, which had previously been known more for avant-garde, fashion-oriented timepieces than vintage-look, sport-focused ones. Eyeing one of these retro-stylish and accessibly priced divers as your next watch purchase? Here is what you need to know about the Rado Captain Cook collection. The Brand Behind the Captain: Rado History Rado was founded in 1917 by brothers Fritz, Ernst, and Werner Schlup, who converted their parents’ home in Lengnau, in the Swiss canton of Bern, into a watch factory. Originally dubbed Schlup & Co.,the family firm started out making movements but eventually found success as a watch producer in 1957 with the launch of the Rado brand (the name means “wheel” in Esperanto) and its first timepiece, the Rado Golden Horse, one of the first wristwatches marketed with an emphasis on its antimagnetic properties. The company followed it up in 1962 with the futuristic DiaStar model (below) - touted as “the world’s first scratch-proof watch” and recognized as the first commercially available “ceramic watch” - which was groundbreaking in its use of hardmetal and sapphire glass for increased scratch-resistance.  The DiaStar ushered in Rado’s modern credo of exploring the most avant-garde, high-tech materials for ideal comfort and durability in its wat...

Hands-On With The Rose Gold Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique And Online Edition Fratello
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique Apr 3, 2024

Hands-On With The Rose Gold Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique And Online Edition

I am always happy to try a new Zenith watch, especially when it’s made of precious materials. And that’s precisely what this Chronomaster Sport is about, boasting a rose gold case, a spinel-, diamond-, and sapphire-set bezel, and a gold meteorite dial with diamonds. Chronomaster Sport 22.3100.3600/69.M3100 This Zenith Chronomaster Sport in 18K rose gold […] Visit Hands-On With The Rose Gold Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique And Online Edition to read the full article.

Worn & Wound Celebrates the Opening of Grand Seiko’s First International Flagship Boutique in NYC Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s First International Flagship Apr 2, 2024

Worn & Wound Celebrates the Opening of Grand Seiko’s First International Flagship Boutique in NYC

Last Thursday, collectors, enthusiasts, and members of the Worn & Wound team came together to celebrate the opening of Grand Seiko’s latest Flagship Boutique, which opened on New York’s iconic Madison Avenue in February. The first boutique of its kind anywhere outside of Japan, this new space is a remarkable testament to the enormous popularity and respect Grand Seiko has garnered since its introduction to the international market in 2010. The event drew in collectors from all over the East Coast and offered a rare after-hours opportunity to explore Grand Seiko’s wide-ranging collection. New York City collectors have, for the last few years, been lucky enough to have access to Grand Seiko’s marvelous SoHo boutique. That space, which Zach Weiss visited in 2021, is a small, intimate affair, with white-washed brick walls and a narrow footprint, perfectly placed among the cast-iron architecture and red brick buildings of the neighborhood. This new Flagship Boutique is something else entirely. Entering the warm, sun-drenched main hall of the boutique from the cool New York City weather, you’re greeted by a space unlike any other, with tall ceilings, Japanese carpentry, and glass everywhere you turn. It’s an easy space to get drawn into but, like an iceberg, there is plenty that sits below the water, or in this case, below street level.  Following the large staircase to the lower floor reveals an intimate lounge space and bar. It was this wonderful space that played...

First Look – The Louis Vuitton X Frank Gehry Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Sapphire Monochrome
Louis Vuitton X Frank Gehry Tambour Apr 2, 2024

First Look – The Louis Vuitton X Frank Gehry Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Sapphire

It’s full steam ahead for Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking division, an appropriate metaphor for a brand founded on Monsieur Vuitton’s revolutionary stacking canvas trunks and long associated with the ‘art of travel’. With the incorporation of the high-end watchmaking manufacture, La Fabrique du Temps in 2011, the brand can produce spectacularly complicated timepieces underscored by a […]

The Revived Cornell Watch Co. Puts a Spotlight on American Watchmaking, with an Assist from RGM Worn & Wound
RGM Apr 2, 2024

The Revived Cornell Watch Co. Puts a Spotlight on American Watchmaking, with an Assist from RGM

To many people, Roland Murphy is American watchmaking. His company, RGM Watch Co., is revered among watch enthusiasts for producing pieces that rival anything put out by the best Swiss watchmakers, all done in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. Murphy was, then, a natural partner for the Cornell Watch Company, a newly revived heritage brand out of Chicago that founder–or re-founder, I suppose–John Warren hopes can help bring attention to the American watch industry and its rich heritage. “I think people don’t know that American companies made more watches between the late 1850s and early 1900s than anywhere in the world,” said Warren in an interview with Worn & Wound. “I don’t think people know that we pioneered the American system of watchmaking that was adopted by the Swiss and the Japanese. I think it’s a story people want to know and it’s worth telling.” Cornell’s story began in 1870, when Paul Cornell and John C. Adams founded the Cornell Watch Company to create railroad pocket watches. Cornell was prolific in timepiece production for a few years, but two tragedies, the Great Chicago Fire and the financial crisis of the Panic of 1873, hit the company hard, and brought it to an end. While an attempt to move Cornell to California to save it was made–along with an attempt at rebranding as the California Watch Company–Cornell shut down not long after. But several Cornell’s pocket watches led to the company having a second life when they were discovered b...

The Best Speedmasters Of The Last Five Years Fratello
Omega introduced Apr 2, 2024

The Best Speedmasters Of The Last Five Years

Five years ago, Omega introduced the last limited-edition Speedmaster models. Who would have thought? After a good ~25 years of introducing many different Speedmaster limited editions, sometimes even more than one per year, the brand just stopped. Well, not entirely, of course, because although the Speedmaster Calibre 321 and Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary […] Visit The Best Speedmasters Of The Last Five Years to read the full article.

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Divetrack SJX Watches
Rolex Deepsea Challenge Apr 2, 2024

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Divetrack

As a sister brand of Singer Vehicle Design, the “restomod” outfit specialising in Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined naturally got its start with auto-racing inspired chronographs, namely the Track 1. Now the brand has pivoted and debuted its first diving watch, the Divetrack Chronograph. Decidedly oversized – the diameter is 49 mm – the Divetrack has the aesthetics of a dive timer, but also the functionality thanks to a clever case and dial construction. And like the Track 1, the Divetrack is powered by the smart AgenGraphe movement that consolidates all of the chronograph indicators onto the central axis. Initial thoughts Oversized dive watches are cool. Watch nerds appreciate them for the technology, design, and function even if no one really uses them for the intended purpose. This applies to the Seiko Tuna, Rolex Deepsea Challenge, and now the Divetrack. At 49 mm in diameter and almost 20 mm high, the Divetrack is unabashedly oversized. It has an appealing instrument-like design along with a clever decompression scale on the dial. And the Agenhor movement inside ranks amongst the most inventive chronograph movements on the market. But the Divetrack is priced at CHF85,000, which is surprisingly high. In comparison, the Track 1 in titanium or aluminium costs about CHF50,000. The number is difficult to justify regardless of how you slice it. Although the movement has been modified for a 24-hour counter, the modification isn’t a major one. Still, the small edition ...

Attention, Fans Of Both Cycling And Watches: Bravur Launches The Three-Watch-Strong Team Heritage Collection Fratello
Bravur Apr 2, 2024

Attention, Fans Of Both Cycling And Watches: Bravur Launches The Three-Watch-Strong Team Heritage Collection

The people at Swedish brand Bravur are about as crazy about watches as they are about cycling. Last year, the brand from Båstad gave us the Grand Tour Chronograph series inspired by the three grand tours - Giro d’Italia, Tour de France, and Vuelta a España. This year, the inspiration comes from iconic cycling teams […] Visit Attention, Fans Of Both Cycling And Watches: Bravur Launches The Three-Watch-Strong Team Heritage Collection to read the full article.

Bamford Drops B80 Collaboration with Ace Jewelers SJX Watches
Rolex watches often Apr 2, 2024

Bamford Drops B80 Collaboration with Ace Jewelers

London-based Bamford Watch Department’s latest is the B80 Limited Edition, a collaboration with Ace Jewelers of Amsterdam. In keeping with Bamford’s vintage-with-a-twist house style, the B80 boasts a “ghost” dial with a gradient finish and numerals inspired by historical military watches. The 39 mm titanium case has a black finished that’s been treated to appear aged. Initial Thoughts There is something about all-black watches that makes them cool. Part of it is the no-nonsense, military-instrument look they evoke. Black-coated watches, at least most of them, suffer from a major drawback - coatings wear off in time, resulting in a worn look that is more often than not unappealing. But here the wear has been done in advance for a fuss-free watch. According to the duo behind the B80, this is a “tool” watch conceived according to the notion “if [the watch is] too perfect, fix it”. Bamford, a company that got its start by modifying Rolex watches, often with vintage inspired styling and black-coated cases, is perhaps poking fun at its roots with the worn-out PVD finish of the B80. Even the dial features a “smoked” patina along with hands and indices with aged lume, thereby creating a “vintage” watch. But as with most Bamford watches – the brand now mostly makes original watches under its own name – the B80 is affordable and imbued with a spirit of fun. The back, for instance, is engraved with “You’re Ace”, and the watch is delivered with a...