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Results for Pilot Watch

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Pilot Watch

The aviation tool-watch genre. Cartier Santos (1904), the WWII B-Uhr, the French Type 20 flyback, the RAF Mark XI, the Breitling Navitimer.

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History of the Cartier Santos: the first pilot watch, and arguably the first proper wristwatch

Louis Cartier built it in 1904 for his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, who was fed up fumbling for his pocket watch mid-flight. 121 years later the square case with exposed screws is still the sharpest dress-sports piece on the shelf. Here is how it got there.

Not A Carbon Copy: Introducing The Apiar Carbon1.0 OG Sports Watch Fratello
Oct 11, 2026

Not A Carbon Copy: Introducing The Apiar Carbon1.0 OG Sports Watch

Apiar launches its first sports watch, the Carbon1.0 OG. Utilizing a novel construction process known as Composite-Based Additive Manufacturing (CBAM), the UK-based brand introduces a fresh approach to carbon-composite watchmaking. The watch features a 40.5mm carbon-fiber outer case surrounding a 38mm Grade 23 titanium core. This hybrid structure allows Apiar to pursue ambitious openworked forms […] Visit Not A Carbon Copy: Introducing The Apiar Carbon1.0 OG Sports Watch to read the full article.

World Watch Day 2026: Time as Living Heritage SJX Watches
De Bethune co-founder Denis Flageollet Oct 10, 2026

World Watch Day 2026: Time as Living Heritage

Today marks the second annual World Watch Day, celebrated on October 10 in a clever nod to the familiar “10:10” depiction of watch hands. This year’s theme, “Time as Living Heritage”, puts the people of Sainte-Croix at the centre of the occasion. A training course at Association Mec-Art Marking the event, our founder SJX participated in a round-table discussion about preserving and passing on the skills of both watchmaking and mechanical art. The panel included De Bethune co-founder Denis Flageollet and automaton maker François Junod, who helped establish the Association Mec-Art, watchmaker Vianney Halter, The 1916 Company’s Tim Mosso, and Karin Alexandrian of the Musée des Arts et Métiers. Europa Star’s Pierre Maillard moderated the conversation. Denis Flageollet of De Bethune co-founded the Association Mec-Art in 2016 with automaton-makers François Junod and Nicolas Court The organisers, Association Mec-Art and the Musée de la Mécanique d’Art et du Patrimoine de Sainte-Croix (MuMAPS), work to safeguard the traditions explored in our earlier story on the unique skills being preserved in Sainte-Croix. These extend beyond watches to music boxes, mechanical singing birds, and automata. Mec-Art helps keep the skills alive through creative projects and practical courses, while MuMAPS is the local museum dedicated to mechanical art and the town’s heritage. The shared challenge is to ensure that future generations can still make and repair these objects, ...

Wren Introduces the Vessel, a New Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Worn & Wound
Anoma Oct 8, 2026

Wren Introduces the Vessel, a New Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch

Wren, the microbrand founded by Wrist Enthusiast’s Craig Karger, has just unveiled the Vessel, a sharp left turn from the brand’s well received dive watches, and easily their most ambitious watch to date.  Craig has been teasing the Vessel for at least the last year, and if you’ve seen him at the Wren booth at recent Windup events and other shows, or just around NYC watch events, it’s possible you’ve seen him wearing prototypes of the Vessel or discreetly showing it off alongside his dive watches. It’s been a long road, and the lengthy run up to the release reflects the complexity of the project compared to the Diver One. I remember the first time Craig showed me a render of what would become the Vessel, it was hard for me to wrap my head around the idea that this would be the next model from his still new brand. It seemed like a watch going in a completely different direction.  The Vessel is an avant-garde integrated bracelet sports watch, built around a contemporary feeling tonneau case shape with a design by Max Resnick, who has worked with Traska, Anoma, and others. The case has an architectural look defined by sharp angles, and is crafted from 904L steel. It measures 39mm by 39mm and is 10.6mm thick. There’s a pretty dramatic taper from the widest part of the case (it’s middle section) and where the lugs meet the bracelet. While the integrated bracelet sports watch has been done to death at this point by just about any brand you can name, the Vessel ...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Bangalore Watch Company Co-Founder And CEO Nirupesh Joshi Hodinkee
Oct 7, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Bangalore Watch Company Co-Founder And CEO Nirupesh Joshi

This week on The Business of Watches, we feature a boutique brand and its CEO from a country that has the watch industry abuzz. Nirupesh Joshi is the co-founder and Chief Executive Officer of Bangalore Watch Company, based in Bengaluru (formerly Bangalore), India. Mercy Amalraj and Nirupesh Joshi. Founded in 2018, the company has slowly established itself as a purveyor of premium watchmaking, with models that don't rely on classic tropes about the country to tell their story. Former tech industry executives Joshi and his wife, Mercy Amalraj, are building a brand that aims to express India's modern spirit as the country becomes an increasingly significant economic and cultural player on the world stage. India has a rich watchmaking history, with brands like HMT and Titan producing watches in large volumes to serve its fast-growing population of over 1 billion people. But BWC is seeking a different client, one that's more seasoned in watches, and is seeking a brand that innovates and competes with other marques from around the world to tell its own unique stories.  BWC has grown to about 15 staff members, including watchmakers repatriated from other brands, and has opened a boutique in its home city and produces around 2,000 watches per year, assembled in India using components made both in-country and from suppliers around the world. The company recently raised capital from investors, and Joshi tells us how BWC plans to bring its watches to a wider, global audience. Custo...

Happenings: New York Watch Week 2026 Is Almost Here Hodinkee
Daniel Roth Oct 6, 2026

Happenings: New York Watch Week 2026 Is Almost Here

It's that time of the year again! And no, I'm not talking about pumpkin spice season (but no shade if you're into it). I'm talking about the busiest time of the year for watches in New York, with New York Watch Week coming up in full swing. That means some of the most exciting watch shows in the Big Apple are happening over that weekend, with some cool talks, brand events, and more bringing it all together. Image courtesy WatchTime The two big shows that we all know and love will be very much present. WatchTime magazine continues the collector-favorite event centered around high-end watchmaking, WatchTime New York, happening from October 16th through the 18th. WatchTime seems to get bigger and bigger every year, and this year they'll be hosting a whopping 48 brands at Gotham Hall. Yes, it's hard to imagine how more brands can somehow fit into the space, but they've managed to make it happen. Along with many familiar names returning, some of the new brands making their debut at WatchTime will be Ferdinand Berthoud, Kudoke, Kollokium, Daniel Roth, and more. While Friday night tickets are sold out, single-day admission is available for sale at WatchTime for both Saturday and Sunday. To complement the high-end showcase at Gotham Hall, Windup Watch Fair (from our friends at Worn & Wound) returns also from October 16th through October 18th, at Center415 on Fifth Ave. between 37th and 38th St. The show will continue to be a delightfully overwhelming mix of everything watches and ...

Fratello On Air: Are You Safe Online As A Watch Collector? Fratello
Oct 6, 2026

Fratello On Air: Are You Safe Online As A Watch Collector?

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. We’re back from the road with your latest dose of watch talk. Today, we’re entertaining a topic from one of our favorite listeners, Roy! No, we’re not talking about Speedos by the pool, but we’re trying to answer whether it’s safe online to discuss our hobby. Enjoy […] Visit Fratello On Air: Are You Safe Online As A Watch Collector? to read the full article.

Power To The Pandagraph: Seiko Brings The 2024 Hit Concept Watch Into Production Fratello
Seiko Brings Oct 6, 2026

Power To The Pandagraph: Seiko Brings The 2024 Hit Concept Watch Into Production

I think it’s safe to say that pandas are universally beloved, and panda dials are among the most popular options for chronographs. That’s probably why Seiko’s so-called Pandagraph got so much attention back in 2024. The watch basically combined the two in the best way possible. You get the cuteness of the panda bear, including […] Visit Power To The Pandagraph: Seiko Brings The 2024 Hit Concept Watch Into Production to read the full article.

Introducing: The Seiko Panda Watch That Stole The Show In 2024 Is Finally Here Hodinkee
Grand Seiko s Evolution 9 Collection Oct 6, 2026

Introducing: The Seiko Panda Watch That Stole The Show In 2024 Is Finally Here

What We Know Seiko has unveiled two limited-edition chronographs born from its power design project, a long-running internal design initiative that encourages designers to explore ideas beyond the constraints of commercial product development. The new watches are based on A Watch Exclusively for Panda Lovers, one of seven concept pieces presented at the 2024 Incredibly Specialized Watch Exhibition, where designers were challenged to create watches tailored to extraordinarily specific audiences. Among the seven concepts, none generated quite as much excitement as the panda watch. Nearly three years after its debut as a one-off exhibition piece, it has now become a production model—remarkably faithful to the original concept. The original "A Watch Exclusively for Panda Lovers" was displayed at the 2024 Incredibly Specialized Watch Exhibition. Original design sketches from the exhibition. The watch was designed by Kiyotaka Sakai, a member of Seiko's product design team who also works on Grand Seiko's Evolution 9 Collection. His starting point was a deceptively simple question: Is a watch called "Panda" really seen as a panda in anyone's eyes? The idea draws on the Japanese concept of mitate—finding unexpected visual associations between seemingly unrelated objects. While collectors have long referred to black-and-white chronographs as "panda dials," Sakai wondered what a watch would look like if it were designed not to resemble a panda dial, but an actual panda. The answe...

Shinola’s Popular Duck Watch Goes Mechanical with the Quirkiest Campaign Ever Worn & Wound
Shinola Oct 5, 2026

Shinola’s Popular Duck Watch Goes Mechanical with the Quirkiest Campaign Ever

One of several running stories I’ve been working on lately is a chronology of influential watch ads, and perhaps I need to add this latest campaign from Shinola to the list. The headline is that the brand’s popular Duck watch is getting a mechanical movement. In my humble opinion, that’s a pretty exciting announcement within itself whether you’re a mechanical devotee who’s loved the aesthetic of the collection but been uninterested in quartz or whether you’re mechanical-curious and looking to acquire your first model with an automatic movement. However, Shinola decided to take things a step further with a wild launch campaign combining four personalities spanning entertainment, comedy, music, and internet culture – Tefi Pessoa, fresh off Love Island USA; Kareem Rahma, creator and host of Subway Takes and Keep the Meter Running; viral creator Benton McClintock; and New York rapper NEMS, whose ‘Bing Bong’ became an internet phenomenon. But that’s not all – somehow Cheerios (yes, the iconic cereal) is also in the mix. Let’s unpack this and how it all (supposedly) relates to the launch of this new watch.  First and foremost, we have to get into the watch itself. The new Duck Automatic collection is making its debut in four iterations. Each offers a well-proportioned 38mm build and is topped off with Shinola’s new quick-release H-link Duck bracelet with a micro-adjust buckle. There are two in classic stainless steel, one with an alabaster hydro sunray...

Bring a Loupe: A Lucien Piccard Telephone, A Mappin and Webb Dress Watch, An Omega Admiralty, And A Jaeger LeCoultre Master Mariner Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar Oct 2, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Lucien Piccard Telephone, A Mappin and Webb Dress Watch, An Omega Admiralty, And A Jaeger LeCoultre Master Mariner

Friday's upon us again. Happy pumpkin spice season to all who celebrate. While you're deciding whether to see Digger in the theater, planning your elaborate Halloween costume, penciling in time to watch the WNBA finals and MLB playoffs, and tracking fallout from the Man City scandal, here are a few watches to tide you over as the mercury drops. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the ZRC went for €6,000, the Omega Ranchero for €3,500, the Cartier Santos sells tomorrow, and the Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar for $14,000. Strays Here's an honest-looking early Heuer 844, which, yes, has a worn crystal and bezel, and it 'requires attention' according to the listing. That said, it's got a decent-looking Monnin case, cathedral hands (meaning Mk 1), and a movement that's common enough to be fairly easily resurrected. For those who at some point fell into the Omega Symbol watch rabbit hole, here's a pair of excellent men's versions—this one and that one—and an accompanying pair of women's versions (this and that), and if all of that is gobbledygook to you, count yourself lucky and move along. If you've been hankering for a great-looking 1979 Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019, your time has come. Photo courtesy of The Saleroom. This is in the running as the prettiest school pocket watch I've seen in a long time, and a good argument for why people should continue investing more time, energy, and money into pocket watches. Bonhams' upcoming New York auction on the 8th has plenty of wo...

Fratello Talks: Can Brand Ambassadors Help Create A New Generation Of Watch Enthusiasts? Fratello
Oct 1, 2026

Fratello Talks: Can Brand Ambassadors Help Create A New Generation Of Watch Enthusiasts?

Brand ambassadors have long been part of the watch industry. From actors and athletes to musicians and explorers, these familiar faces help bring brands’ watches to a wider audience. But can that visibility do more than sell watches? Can it spark interest in horology among people who might never have given the hobby a second […] Visit Fratello Talks: Can Brand Ambassadors Help Create A New Generation Of Watch Enthusiasts? to read the full article.

Ianos Introduces the Amfivios, a Civilian Version of their Military Issued Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Sep 30, 2026

Ianos Introduces the Amfivios, a Civilian Version of their Military Issued Dive Watch

We’ve been saying it for years, but one of the things that makes the microbrand and small independent scene so exciting is that there is truly a watch for everyone. It’s a playing field that allows makers to be incredibly obscure, follow their own strange and otherwise hard to understand impulses, and bring watches to market that simply wouldn’t exist without that individual jolt of creativity. Ianos is a great example. This is a brand that exists to explore Greek diving culture (which has a rich history) and has built a design language around traditionally Greek motifs that simply don’t exist elsewhere in watchmaking. It doesn’t really get more niche than that.  Their latest watch, the Amfivios, comes on the heels of an Ianos that couldn’t be purchased by a normal civilian enthusiast. The OYK, introduced last year, was the by the brand’s account the first Greek-designed watch ever commissioned for a military unit. The watch was made in small numbers for active members of the Underwater Demolition Command unit, and presented to that unit by Greece’s Prime Minister. It was an important moment for the brand, and naturally when word spread of the OYK’s existence, Ianos loyalists and other collectors began to request a version of the watch they could own themselves.  The new Amfivios, like the Oyk, is built on the same platform as the Dytis, which we covered here. The Dytis is really an exercise in style and design, though, whereas the Amfivios is more of a...

Business News: Gallet’s Return Heralds Renewed Battle For Mid-Tier Priced Watch Segment Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Sep 29, 2026

Business News: Gallet’s Return Heralds Renewed Battle For Mid-Tier Priced Watch Segment

Backed by Breitling's House of Brands group, Gallet's return was hotly anticipated and closely scrutinized. Priced between $2,900 for a three-hand Flying Officer model with date and about $6,700 for the vintage-inspired 'Classics' models, replete with Breitling B09 hand-wound calibers, the revived brand's pricing at Breitling boutiques is certainly aggressive.  Gallet's rebirth and price-category decision mark the most high-profile and ambitious attempt by the Swiss watch industry to reclaim a space it once owned but has largely ceded in recent years to so-called 'boutique' or micro-brands that have filled the gap left by traditional Swiss brands moving upscale.Over the past decade, brands have climbed the value-category ladder even higher, making fewer watches at higher prices. The so-called mid-tier premium—or luxury watches with an MSRP between $2,000 and $5,000—was once dominated by Swiss brands from Omega to Breitling to TAG Heuer and Jaeger-LeCoultre. And while TAG Heuer still produces plenty of watches in the category, including the solar-powered quartz Formula 1, much of its development and marketing resources have been focused on new pricier versions of classic chronographs housed in titanium or other lightweight materials including the highly innovative, but eye-wateringly expensive, Monaco 'Evergraph' retailing at more than $28,000. Several of the new Gallet watches are available on a steel bracelet that is the same used on some Breitling models. Photo Cre...

Fratello On Air: Does Watch Financing Help Or Hurt The Hobby? Fratello
Sep 29, 2026

Fratello On Air: Does Watch Financing Help Or Hurt The Hobby?

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. We’re back after a couple of weeks under the weather and ready to talk watches. But we’re not just talking about them; we’re also asking whether watch financing has helped or hurt the hobby we all enjoy. Perhaps that’s an easy question, but the tougher one is […] Visit Fratello On Air: Does Watch Financing Help Or Hurt The Hobby? to read the full article.

Guitarist Josh Smith Is Not A Purist; He’s An Open-Minded Musician AND Watch Fan Fratello
Sep 28, 2026

Guitarist Josh Smith Is Not A Purist; He’s An Open-Minded Musician AND Watch Fan

You might want to know who Josh Smith is. I mean, guitar players don’t often headline a Fratello story. Guitarist Josh Smith was born on October 7th, 1979, in Middletown, Connecticut, and is an American blues-rock guitarist, vocalist, songwriter, and producer whose playing sits comfortably at the intersection of blues, jazz, and rock. He received […] Visit Guitarist Josh Smith Is Not A Purist; He’s An Open-Minded Musician AND Watch Fan to read the full article.

Celebrating a New Home for Watch Enthusiasts in Eastern Montana with Citizen Watch America and Riddle’s Jewelers Worn & Wound
Accutron Frédérique Constant Sep 24, 2026

Celebrating a New Home for Watch Enthusiasts in Eastern Montana with Citizen Watch America and Riddle’s Jewelers

Last week, Worn & Wound and Citizen Watch America headed west to Billings, Montana, for an evening of watches, conversation, and a little bit of Windup Watch Fair previewing at Riddle’s Jewelry’s Shiloh location.  Following our enthusiast night in Salt Lake, the Billings event was another chance to bring the Windup experience to a community that doesn’t always get the opportunity to see this kind of collection of watches in person. But more than anything, the evening was about establishing Riddle’s Jewelers as a welcoming home for watch enthusiasts in Eastern Montana—and kicking off what we hope becomes a new tradition of getting together, talking watches, and, naturally, buying a few new timepieces along the way. The evening welcomed local enthusiasts, longtime collectors, curious newcomers, and Riddle’s clientele, all with one thing in common: an appreciation for a good watch and an excuse to talk about them. With food and drinks on hand, the evening had the easygoing feel we love about enthusiast gatherings. Watches came off wrists, new ones went on, and conversations bounced from movements and materials to personal favorites and the watches everyone had been quietly keeping an eye on. Of course, there was plenty to get excited about on the watch front. The collection included standout pieces from Citizen, Bulova, Accutron, Frédérique Constant, and Alpina, including several watches that aren’t exactly easy to find sitting in a display case. And our new ...

First Look - Longines Expands the Spirit Pilot Collection with Four New Sky Blue References Monochrome
Longines Expands Sep 24, 2026

First Look - Longines Expands the Spirit Pilot Collection with Four New Sky Blue References

The Longines Spirit collection was launched in 2020 and has since evolved into one of the brand’s main contemporary families, offering watches with vintage-inspired aviation cues yet with modern specifications. The range now comprises six models, including the Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback introduced in 2025 – streamlined, more focused and more compact models with […]

Fratello Talks: If We Could Only Keep One Watch From Our Collection Fratello
Sep 24, 2026

Fratello Talks: If We Could Only Keep One Watch From Our Collection

What if you had to choose just one watch from your entire collection and let everything else go? No backups, no rotation, and no keeping that one watch you rarely wear “just in case.” In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, RJ, and Daan take on that particularly difficult hypothetical. The interesting part is that […] Visit Fratello Talks: If We Could Only Keep One Watch From Our Collection to read the full article.

Six of the Most Obscure Watch and Car Tie-Ins You’ve Likely Never Heard Of Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Sep 23, 2026

Six of the Most Obscure Watch and Car Tie-Ins You’ve Likely Never Heard Of

In terms of analog intricacy and an unyielding enthusiasm for the vintage and enduring, watches and the automotive realm are a natural A-to-B: it should come as no surprise that the Venn diagram of watch nerds and automotive nerds is eerily close to a circle.  Yet, there’s more to the world of branded cross-promotion than, say, TAG Heuer and Porsche. Some of the most off-the-beaten-path collaborations are worthy of deep dives, and the six examples highlighted here (including many from Heuer!) are collectible and worthy of appreciation by those who know. Because there’s only so much that can be represented by Steve McQueen, in that white racing suit, giving the British equivalent of the middle finger. Thankfully, the world of mechanical fascination runs so much deeper than that.  IWC Mark XII x Saab “Born from Jets” was the advertising slogan of the now-defunct Saab for the last 20 or so years of its life, and while there was a distinct difference between Saab AG the defense contractor and the General Motors-owned division, it made for some really, really cool television ads. IWC, who built its reputation on pilot’s watches, lent its flagship Mark Series to a Saab tie-in in 1997: if you put down the deposit for a limited-edition 900 Mellow Yellow Cabrio, you were awarded one of these Mark XIIs, each one customized with a yellow leather strap and “Saab Automatic” on the dial instead of the usual “Mark XII Automatic.” Today, if you can find one, they go fo...

Héron Introduces the Continental, a New Vintage Inspired “Go Anywhere, Do Anything” Watch Worn & Wound
Albishorn Sep 23, 2026

Héron Introduces the Continental, a New Vintage Inspired “Go Anywhere, Do Anything” Watch

Héron, the Montreal-based microbrand that had a legitimate hit on its hands with the release of the Mirabel GMT last year, is back with their take on the classic “go anywhere, do anything” sports watch, met with the brand’s typically refined design codes. Héron exists at a time when the straight up vintage inspired watches that dominated the scene a decade ago are fading in popularity, but they remain distinct and relevant for putting a truly personal and distinctive spin on the genre. These are not recreations of well known vintage references, but seem to exist in that type of “alternate reality” space imagined by brands like Serica, Albishorn, and others. There’s just a little extra charm to these watches that sets them apart, and make them feel like they aren’t part of a playbook.  The new Héron Continental is, according to the brand, inspired by watches worn “during the great age of exploration.” They want us to think of early transcontinental flights, mountaineering expeditions, and important midcentury scientific breakthroughs. This, of course, is not new ground for watch brands. Many that existed during this age of exploration remind us of it on a regular basis, and newer brands do their best to conjure. To Héron’s credit, they make their inspiration explicit in their press materials, citing watches like the Rolex Explorer, Universal Geneve Polerouter, and Longines Conquest as touchpoints. But the Continental is its own thing, borrowing cert...

Hands On: Blancpain Lady B SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre cal 101 which Sep 23, 2026

Hands On: Blancpain Lady B

The charming and compact Lady B extends Blancpain’s collection of elegant ladies watches while upholding the brand’s longstanding commitment to mechanical calibres. At just 19 mm in size and almost spherical in form, the Lady B contains an upmarket automatic movement that transcends the quartz-powered norms for this segment of watchmaking. Initial thoughts The Lady B is the spiritual successor to the Ladybird Bullet, which introduced the world’s smallest round mechanical movement when it debuted 70 years ago under the leadership of Betty Fiechter, the first woman to lead a major Swiss watch brand. The “round” qualifier is important because the smallest mechanical movement — then, as now — was the Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 101, which is still in production but in extremely limited numbers, and reserved for high jewellery collections. The Lady B (left) with the original Ladybird Bullet from 1956 The Lady B is larger than the vintage Bullet, but at just 19 mm it’s still small enough that the size is the main point of intrigue. The watch is almost spherical being 13 mm thick, but rather than feeling too thick this aspect gives the watch a charming bead-like feel similar to the original Bullet. The spherical feel is completed by the absence of conventional lugs; the Lady B instead features a pass-through channel for a selection of interchangeable straps. This hypothetically allows multiple Lady B’s to be “stacked” on the same strap for a jewellery-like look, b...