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Results for Tourbillon

2,244 articles · 2 videos found · page 51 of 75

Related pages

Wiki · Guide
Flying Tourbillon

Alfred Helwig's 1920 tourbillon variant with no upper bridge; the entire cage is visible.

Wiki · Guide
Tourbillon

Breguet's 1801 rotating-cage escapement, explained.

Exclusive · Guide
Breguet Drops Four Tourbillon Watches to Mark 225 Years Since the Patent

A quartet of new releases, one returning collector favorite, and a date that matters more than most anniversaries in watchmaking.

Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Patek Philippe World Time Flying Tourbillon 5531 Patek Philippe

42.8 mm × 11.4 mm, lug 22 mm, Cal. R 27 HU

Beyond the Familiar: A History of A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Collection SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne 3h ago

Beyond the Familiar: A History of A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Collection

Ferdinand Adolph Lange was born in Dresden on February 18th, 1815. Thirty years later he’d found his eponymous company, and 145 years after that a new A. Lange & Söhne would rise from the proverbial ashes of East Germany. The A. Lange & Söhne we know today debuted in 1994 when the brand launched four watches: the Arkade, Saxonia, Lange 1, and the flagship Tourbillon Pour le Mérite, which established a set of visual codes that would later define the 1815 collection. Today, the 1815 family is primarily known for its many time-only variants, the 1815 Up/Down, and, of course, the 1815 Chronograph. However, the 1815 collection also includes some of the brand’s most extraordinary, unusual, and rarely seen models. Lange 1815 Emil Lange Moon Phase (1999) The Tourbillon Pour le Mérite of 1994 defined the 1815 collection’s design codes, specifically the printed Arabic dial that is vaguely reminiscent of a pocket watch despite being an almost from-scratch design. However, it was not officially badged as an 1815. That designation arrived the following year with the refs. 206.021 in yellow gold and 206.025 in white gold. These introductions saw the rectangular movement inside the Arkade and Saxonia reformatted to make it presentable through a display case back. The extra space was put to use in the followup 1815 Up/Down, which added the namesake power reserve indicator and recreated the running seconds. In 1999, Lange launched the 1815 Moonphase Emil Lange (1849-1921) to mark...

Striking a chord: The L.Leroy Vox Temporis swaps a minute hand for a minute repeater Time+Tide
Oris swaps 18h ago

Striking a chord: The L.Leroy Vox Temporis swaps a minute hand for a minute repeater

L.Leroy introduces the Vox Temporis, an exclusive minute repeater and flying tourbillon. It features an unconventional single fixed hand with a rotating dial, inspired by a historic 1810 tact watch. Produced in titanium, red gold, and platinum, the watch is limited to just 15 pieces across all three case materials. For modern collectors, the appeal … Continued

Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold With Gilt Dial Hodinkee
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold 20h ago

Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold With Gilt Dial

What We Know I'll come clean—I've been a bit more than mildly obsessed with the modern revival of Daniel Roth ever since I got to spend some time with the Daniel Roth Tourbillon in platinum last year. While that watch very much still reigns supreme for me in the lineup, Daniel Roth has just announced a new watch today that feels awfully close to unseating the Tourbillon's title for me. It's the new variation of the Daniel Roth Extra Plat in rose gold, but this time, it's with a black gilt dial. What's important to note is that this is a true gilt dial, not the often misconstrued sense of the word that many modern watches like to use for accents and markings printed in a gold tone. As I've covered on Hodinkee in the past, a real gilt dial is made by taking a base dial blank, printing a protective lacquer mask on what are typically the positive markings on a dial, and then galvanically coating the entire dial in black. The masked portions of the dial are protected from the coating, and after the lacquer is removed, the base metal underneath serves as the dial text. The dial of this Extra Plat starts as a dial blank of solid 5N rose gold, then is engine-turned by hand on a rose lathe to achieve the guillochage on the various sections of the dial in recognizably Daniel Roth style. Afterward, all the markings—Roman numerals, the Daniel Roth logo, dial number, etc.—are pad-printed with a pink varnish to protect them during the subsequent electroplating treatments. After th...

MB&F;’s M.A.D.3 Honours Vincent Calabrese SJX Watches
Blancpain Yesterday

MB&F;’s M.A.D.3 Honours Vincent Calabrese

For it’s third M.A.D. Edition, MB&F; has reimagined Vincent Calabrese’s signature jumping hours complication. While still allocated via raffle, the M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese represents a significant departure for MB&F;’s entry level sub-brand, being the first to fully conceal the winding rotor and the first to be based on a historical design from a notable watchmaker. Initial thoughts Vincent Calabrese is a pioneering independent watchmaker who co-founded the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) alongside Svend Andersen in 1985. Mr Calabrese is perhaps most well known for developing highly original movements for other brands including the Corum Golden Bridge and the first-ever flying tourbillon wristwatch movement for Blancpain in 1989. But Mr Calabrese also produced watches under his own name, including the Baladin that served as the inspiration for M.A.D.3. Maximilian Büsser and Mr Calabrese have been friends for years and discussed collaborating on a watch project many times, but the M.A.D.3 is their first joint effort. The M.A.D.3 is affordable as such things go, at CHF2,900. That’s roughly equivalent to where original Baladins trade on the secondary market, depending on the specifics. But the M.A.D.3 is a worthy remake in a more contemporary size and should prove more reliable and easier to service when the time comes. For better or worse, the solid value proposition almost dictates a mechanism to manage demand, so buying a M.A.D.3 isn’t a...

Introducing - The New Piaget Polo Minute Repeater Monochrome
Piaget Polo Minute Repeater Piaget 2 days ago

Introducing - The New Piaget Polo Minute Repeater

Piaget has long built its watchmaking reputation on a combination of ultra-thin movements and decorative techniques. Founded in 1874 by Georges-Édouard Piaget in La Côte-aux-Fées, the Maison developed its expertise in high-precision movements before making ultra-thin mechanical calibres one of its defining specialities. This expertise has also extended to major complications, including the tourbillon, chronograph, […]

An Ultra-Rare Complication Featuring Delicate Hand-Made Decorations: The ArtyA Genève Complexity Métiers d’Art Fratello
Aug 24, 2026

An Ultra-Rare Complication Featuring Delicate Hand-Made Decorations: The ArtyA Genève Complexity Métiers d’Art

There is no shame in admitting you’ve never heard of something. You know the tourbillon is a little mechanical anti-gravity device, so to speak. The cônillon, however, is very rare. It is a tourbillon regulator with a tilted balance that follows a conical path rather than a conventional flat plane. The concept traces back to […] Visit An Ultra-Rare Complication Featuring Delicate Hand-Made Decorations: The ArtyA Genève Complexity Métiers d’Art to read the full article.

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV SJX Watches
Voutilainen demonstrate demand Aug 14, 2026

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV

Now beginning its second decade under the leadership of Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) has introduced the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1, the first model in the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. The FB 2TV represents an evolution of the brand’s long-running chain-and-fusee architecture, adding zero-reset seconds and a flying tourbillon, and inverting the calibre to exhibit its key functional elements on the dial side. Initial thoughts It’s hard to believe that it has been ten years since the debut of Ferdinand Berthoud as a contemporary brand. It was clear from the outset that FB had big ambitions, launching its first model with a chain and fusee mechanism. Since then, FB has maintained admirably high standards for itself, and while not all of the designs appeal to me, the obvious effort that goes into every watch — each FB 2TV receives more than 300 hours of decoration — has won the brand a durable position near the top of the industry. Now beginning its second decade, FB has released the first watch in a new collection that portends a more mechanically expressive style, with features like the chain and fusee inverted to the dial side. This approach isn’t original, but the success of other ‘inverted’ movements from independents like Kari Voutilainen demonstrate demand for the format. Quirky designs Ferdinand Berthoud, an 18th-century pioneer of the spring detent escapement among other breakthroughs, approached watchmaking fr...

Hands-on - The Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, the Brand’s Sophisticated Time-Only Watch Monochrome
Voutilainen Aug 4, 2026

Hands-on - The Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, the Brand’s Sophisticated Time-Only Watch

When Urban Jürgensen returned under the stewardship of Kari Voutilainen and Alex Rosenfield, the inaugural collection naturally attracted attention with the spectacular UJ-1 Tourbillon and the sophisticated UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar. Yet, of the three models, it is perhaps the UJ-2 that best explains what the revived manufacture is looking to achieve. The UJ-2, to put […]

Hands-on - Bell & Ross Goes Avant-Garde with the Architectural BR-X3 Micro-Rotor (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Bell & Ross Goes Avant-Garde Jul 31, 2026

Hands-on - Bell & Ross Goes Avant-Garde with the Architectural BR-X3 Micro-Rotor (Incl. Video)

We’ve come to know and love Bell & Ross for its unbridled devotion to the world of aviation and its many flight instrument-inspired watches. The recently launched BR-X3 Micro-Rotor, however, which is a less complex spin-off from last year’s BR-X3 Micro-Rotor Tourbillon, goes in an entirely different direction. It’s not tied to flight instruments, nor […]

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces The Fascinating Endeavour Cosmic Rain Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Jul 31, 2026

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces The Fascinating Endeavour Cosmic Rain

H. Moser & Cie. unveils the Endeavour Minute Repeater Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Cosmic Rain as a limited edition of 20 pieces. This is a very significant artistic and technical effort from the Schaffhausen-based manufacture. Moser reinterprets one of its most complex creations in a 40mm titanium case, combining a minute repeater displayed on the dial […] Visit H. Moser & Cie. Introduces The Fascinating Endeavour Cosmic Rain to read the full article.

Moser’s Repeater is Cosmic, Cylindrical, and Skeleton SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie has unveiled Jul 31, 2026

Moser’s Repeater is Cosmic, Cylindrical, and Skeleton

While most Swiss watchmakers are taking their summer holidays, H. Moser & Cie. has unveiled the Endeavour Minute Repeater Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Cosmic Rain — the latest variant of the brand’s most complicated movement platform. The Cosmic Rain takes its name from its dial, which features mother-of-pearl inlays on an aventurine glass dial base. Devoid of a brand logo or wordmark — a long-running Moser motif — the dial effectively evokes a night sky filled with streaking comets. Initial thoughts H. Moser & Cie. is probably best known for its minimalist designs, but the Cosmic Rain’s openworked construction reveals another side of the brand. So, too, does its raden dial, which is dressed up with shimmering strips of mother-of-pearl. The Cosmic Rain is quite compact for such a complicated watch at 40 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm thick — barely larger than some time-only watches. These wrist-friendly dimensions, combined with a lightweight titanium case, should make for a comfortable wearing experience. The calibre HMC 909 features an off-centre time display that reveals both the strike train and the tourbillon, which has been elevated — literally and figuratively — with a cylindrical hairspring. Unfortunately, the vestigial centre wheel pinion is unnecessarily exposed, revealing the calibre’s roots as a movement designed for central hour and minutes hands. There’s a lot to like about the Cosmic Rain, but it’s hard to find justification for the CHF...

The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast Fratello
Bianchet Jul 30, 2026

The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast

I will admit it: when Bianchet first launched quietly in 2017, the idea of another openworked tourbillon watch wasn’t overly intriguing. Then again, as a traditionalist, I tended to dismiss watches like this in the past. But, as they say, the past is the past. Now, I enjoy more theater in my timepieces. Painstaking finishing, […] Visit The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast to read the full article.

Hands On: FVF Genève FVF2 Openwork SJX Watches
Jul 24, 2026

Hands On: FVF Genève FVF2 Openwork

Watch designer Franc Vila kicked off his comeback with the FVF1 skeleton tourbillon, which he then followed up with the FVF2, a non-tourbillon watch that likewise indicates the time and day. The FVF2 Openwork strips away the dial, giving the watch a more mechanical appearance thanks to the exposed under-dial works, revealing the jumper spring for the retrograde day indicator. The reverse of the Openwork is identical to that of the standard model. The manual-wind movement blends contemporary and traditional elements — the striking, angular design works surprisingly well as a canvas for haute horlogerie finishing. Notably, the FVF2 movement is also its case: the base plate is one with the case middle, an approach FVF describes as a “unibody” architecture. Initial thoughts Because the FVF2 was created by a designer, it has a unique aesthetic that blends many elements and inspirations. The look doesn’t overemphasise any singular influence, making it more interesting than most time-only watches on the market today, many of which converge on the same few historical styles. Even though the FVF2 is a little bit of this and a little bit of that, everything comes together well. The standard FVF2 has a dial, offered in a wide range of materials, while the Openwork version does not. That is essentially the sole distinction between the two, but it makes a big difference in terms of aesthetics. In this sense the Openwork is similar to Roger Smith’s open-dialled watches, especi...

Auctions: Phillips Announces Sale Of A Pre-Production  F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance In November Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Jul 17, 2026

Auctions: Phillips Announces Sale Of A Pre-Production  F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance In November

Here we go again. It's been a blue ribbon auction year so far, particularly for rare examples of timepieces from independents, including F.P. Journe. During a record-setting spring auction season marked by a stunning shift in valuations and collector interest in top-notch independent watchmakers, an early Chronomètre à Résonance (no. 007) fetched a record $13.9 million, making it the most expensive F.P. Journe watch ever sold at auction and the fifth most expensive watch of all time.  Mark wrote up a great piece on the record-breaking result that dives deep into the history of the Résonance and why it's such an important achievement in haute horology, and why it is François-Paul Journe's signature watch. With the prototype produced in 1998, and with 'Souscription' commercial pieces produced and delivered beginning in 2000, Journe's Chronomètre à Résonance marks the first time that the concept of "résonance," combining two movements with separate balances into a single case and bringing them into perfect synchronization, was brought to a wristwatch. For many collectors, the model represents the ultimate expression of Journe's vision and talent as a watchmaker. Just 20 'Souscription' pieces—offered to those who bought Journe's first watch, a tourbillon—were produced, and collectors have come to covet the series, with the earliest watches fetching a premium. When it comes to the Résonance, the earlier the better, it seems. That's why it's newsworthy and worth ...

Introducing - The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino now in Rose Gold Monochrome
Bianchet Jul 17, 2026

Introducing - The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino now in Rose Gold

Earlier this year, independent Swiss brand Bianchet expanded beyond its signature tonneau-shaped watches with the launch of the Rotondo UltraFino, a sleek round interpretation of its distinctive designs. With an ultra-thin profile, an integrated bracelet and a flying tourbillon movement, the titanium and carbon models introduced a more versatile side to the young brand while […]

Concepto Marks 20 Years of Movement Making SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. tapped Concepto Jul 10, 2026

Concepto Marks 20 Years of Movement Making

One of the leading names in movement development, Concepto marks its 20th year in 2026. Concepto’s founder, Valérien Jaquet, has led the company since its founding in 2006, advised by his father, Jean-Pierre Jaquet, a fabled watch entrepreneur with a controversial history. Now a vertically integrated manufacture capable of creating and producing almost every part of a watch, Concepto is one of the rare handful of movement suppliers that have survived and prospered over the economic cycles of the watch industry. Some of its peers have gone bust, like Christophe Claret, while others, like La Fabrique du Temps, have been acquired by the industry’s giants. From left: Valérien Jaquet, Jean-Pierre Jaquet, and Jacob Arabo. Image – Concepto The company released a statement for its 20th anniversary that reveals some interesting facts about a little-known but crucial aspect of the industry — the specialist suppliers that feed watch brands with movements. Concepto remains a family business boasting some impressive numbers: according to the company, last year’s sales exceeded CHF60 million while output was some 30,000 movements, including about 1,100 tourbillon calibres. According to Concepto, its client list exceeds 100 brands. The list includes names large and small — the firm helped Bulgari set the record for the world’s thinnest tourbillon, while Jacob & Co. tapped Concepto for the V-16 engine automaton in the Bugatti Tourbillon wristwatch. Even Bugatti itself turn...

Northern Exposure: Louis Vuitton’s Escale en Alaska SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s Escale en Alaska Jul 9, 2026

Northern Exposure: Louis Vuitton’s Escale en Alaska

Louis Vuitton (LV) has taken the covers off its latest unique Escale Autour du Monde pocket watch — the Escale en Alaska is the most complicated Escale pocket watch yet, including both a minute repeater and a tourbillon along with nine dial-side animations. Initial thoughts Possibly more than any other so-called ‘fashion brand’, LV excels in creativity and world-building, which has only become more stylish, whimsical and nuanced. The Escale en Alaska exemplifies this development, and demonstrates the breadth of artistic crafts practised by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Translating as ‘Stopovers Around the World’, the Escale Autour du Monde collection embodies the expressive flair of a leading fashion house — something many traditional watch brands simply can’t match. Following LV’s previous Escale pocket watches celebrating the beauty of Mount Fuji and the Pont-Neuf in Paris, the brand’s latest creation has looked north for inspiration, this time celebrating the desolate beauty of Alaskan glaciers and their exotic inhabitants. Arctic artistry The term ‘fashion watch’ is often used pejoratively to describe a watch with no real watchmaking value that trades solely off the fashion name, but watches like Escale en Alaska transcend this categorisation. The Escale Autour du Monde is a double-sided pocket watch with animated jacquemarts on one side and an exposed movement with an inverted hand stack on the other. The latter is unchanged from that of previous e...

Introducing - The new Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 3SPC.2-1 Monochrome
Chopard s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele Jul 7, 2026

Introducing - The new Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 3SPC.2-1

Following the resurrection of the name Ferdinand Berthoud by Chopard’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele in 2015, with the introduction of the Chronomètre FB1, a superb tourbillon watch with fusée-and-chain device, followed by the no less spectacular Chronomètre FB2, the brand presented another award-winning watch, a superb wrist chronometer with cylindrical balance-spring named the Chronomètre FB 3SPC – […]

Hands-On: The Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Blue And An Intro To Bonniksen Hodinkee
Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Blue Jul 7, 2026

Hands-On: The Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Blue And An Intro To Bonniksen

Double tourbillons, quadruple tourbillons, movements assembled with such three-dimensional ambition that they sit like sci-fi architecture on the wrist, every time I have a Greubel Forsey in hand, I'm reminded just how much the brand operates in its own lane. Yet there has always been something faintly contradictory about the Balancier 3, the model the brand first introduced in 2023 as its most moderate, most structurally legible entry point. With three bridges, a clean balance, no tourbillon, and no theatre, the Balancier 3 on paper is reserved. And yet my first thought with this recently released version on the wrist is that even a restrained Greubel Forsey is a startling object. Balanced beautifully between spotlighting its technicality and marrying that with a new execution, this might be the brand's simplest watch on paper, but it is not, by any reasonable measure, a simple watch. The Balancier 3 has been with us for three years now, and with this latest edition, the large central bridge has been hand-frosted across its entire curved surface. The result is a deep, matte texture, the kind of pronounced surface that a machine couldn't lay down convincingly on a shape this complex, running from the edge of the movement between one and two o'clock down to the seconds between seven and eight. Around it, the balance and barrel bridges remain in a bright, polished titanium, producing an incredibly captivating contrast of reflection and depth. Then there is the blue, worked i...

First Look - The Impressive Finishings of the Greubel Forsey Balancier QM Monochrome
Greubel Forsey Balancier QM Greubel Forsey Jun 29, 2026

First Look - The Impressive Finishings of the Greubel Forsey Balancier QM

Greubel Forsey, the high-end independent brand founded in 2004, has long been associated with multi-axis tourbillons, often staged in enormous, asymmetric cases with protrusions to accommodate the mechanics and offer panoramic views. The first model to appear without a tourbillon was the Balancier, equipped with an enormous 12.6mm dial-side balance wheel. Ever evolving, the latest […]

Introducing - The Colourful Hublot Big Bang Summer Collection in Pastel Ceramic Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Summer Collection Jun 20, 2026

Introducing - The Colourful Hublot Big Bang Summer Collection in Pastel Ceramic

Since 2017, Hublot has celebrated the arrival of each summer with a special collection unveiled in Saint-Tropez. For 2026, the brand prepared a series of Big Bang watches, demonstrating Hublot’s mastery of coloured ceramic. The range offers a lighter, seasonal interpretation of the Big Bang and spans manufacture chronographs, a tourbillon and compact automatic models. Two […]

Photo Report: The 2026 Concorso d'Eleganza Villa d'Este With A. Lange & Söhne Hodinkee
A. Lange & Sohne Jun 18, 2026

Photo Report: The 2026 Concorso d'Eleganza Villa d'Este With A. Lange & Söhne

"It's hard to think of anywhere else on the planet that combines scenic beauty, history, and automotive culture as harmoniously as the Villa d'Este on Lake Como." That's the official program's own description of the Concorso d'Eleganza at Villa d'Este, and after spending a weekend on the shores of Lake Como in the company of A. Lange & Söhne, I'm struggling to beat that. Concorso d'Eleganza, Villa d'Este The Concorso dates back to 1929, and while it paused during the war, it returned in the 1990s and has since become one of the most significant automotive gatherings on earth, with the BMW Group taking on title sponsorship in 2001. Every May, it spreads across Villa d'Este and the neighboring Villa Erba, with pre-war coachwork, Italian icons, and concept cars arranged throughout the terraced gardens and lakeside promenade of what was once a 16th-century cardinal's home. The new Lange Cabaret Tourbillon in Honeygold This edition of the Concorso d'Eleganza Villa d'Este was of particular note for A. Lange & Söhne, as it marked the 15th year that the brand had been a partner, and the brand coincided the event with the announcement of the Honeygold Cabaret Tourbillon. TanTan is your man to learn everything you need to know about that watch here (although I will add that the return of the Cabaret, not only in Honeygold but also with a hacking tourbillon, is a real sight to behold) The connection between Lange and the Concorso runs far deeper than a hospitality tent, as CEO Wilh...

Ulysse Nardin Debuts Freak X Second Generation SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Debuts Freak X Second Jun 17, 2026

Ulysse Nardin Debuts Freak X Second Generation

The second-generation Ulysse Nardin (UN) Freak X proves that good things can come in small(er) packages, with an all-new micro-rotor calibre powering the Freak’s signature ‘flying carousel’ architecture. The new movement debuts in a smaller 41 mm steel case with an interchangeable strap system. Initial thoughts There’s a lot to like about the updated Freak X. It retains the wandering tourbillon-style architecture that UN describes as a flying carousel, powered by an all-new micro-rotor calibre that’s been upgraded with the brand’s DiamonSil escapement package. It’s also noticeably smaller than the outgoing model, while boasting superior water resistance thanks in part to the collection’s first screw-down crown. Strap options have been expanded thanks to an interchangeable strap system that includes a stainless steel bracelet. These upgrades come with a modest increase to retail pricing, which starts at US$41,200 — essentially the same price as one of the special edition versions of the first-generation Freak X. Some will mourn the ‘downgrade’ from titanium to steel, but that’s a relatively minor issue given the reduced case size, and furthermore the release of titanium options in the future seems all but guaranteed. Smaller but better When the Freak debuted 25 years ago, it shocked the industry with its novel construction, which integrated the entire going train and escapement into an enormous minutes hand. The Freak X keeps the overall look mostly ...

Max-imum cool: MB&F; HM12 “The Guardian” SJX Watches
MB&F; Jun 10, 2026

Max-imum cool: MB&F; HM12 “The Guardian”

After more than 20 years, avante garde independent MB&F; returns to its roots and looks to its future with HM12 The Guardian. It combines a Horological Machine with a high-end shaped movement, flying tourbillon the most elaborate – and coolest – watch stand imaginable: a nearly 400 mm tall, 15 kg robot. Better yet, The Guardian can shift into battle mode at a moments notice, deploying armor to protect its weak points. Initial Thoughts MB&F; marks its 20th anniversary with HM12 The Guardian, or would have, had it been ready in time. Instead HM12 celebrates MB&F;’s future, as the first project led solely by the brand’s creative director (and Max Büsser’s heir), Max Maertens. Mr Büsser kicked the project off about four years ago by pitching a robot with a watch for a face, following up on the brand’s robot Melchior and Balthazar desk clocks. After that, Max 2.0 was left to his own devices, with this as the result. It is a very reassuring result for those concerned about the brand’s future after Maximilian Büsser’s eventual retirement, which isn’t yet imminent, but something the brand is clearly preparing for. Interestingly, Eric Giroud, who has designed just about every MB&F; watch, was not involved in the project either. Max (left) and Max (right). Image – MB&F; While discussing the project, Mr Büsser told me that Mr Maertens actually modelled the robot himself in SolidWorks, which goes well beyond the normal duties of a designer. That Maertens did the har...

MAXimum Cool: MB&F; HM12 “The Guardian” is a Robot Watch-Clock SJX Watches
MB&F; Jun 10, 2026

MAXimum Cool: MB&F; HM12 “The Guardian” is a Robot Watch-Clock

After more than 20 years, avant-garde independent MB&F; returns to its roots and looks to its future with HM12 The Guardian. The HM12 is a Horological Machine containing a high-end shaped movement featuring a flying tourbillon, nestled in the most elaborate – and coolest – watch stand imaginable: a nearly 400 mm tall, 15 kg robot. Better yet, The Guardian can shift into battle mode at a moments notice, deploying armor to protect its weak points. Initial Thoughts MB&F; marks its 20th anniversary with HM12 The Guardian, or would have, had it been ready in time. Instead HM12 celebrates MB&F;’s future, as the first project led solely by the brand’s creative director (and founder Max Büsser’s heir), Max Maertens. Mr Büsser kicked the project off about four years ago by pitching a robot with a watch for a face, following up on the brand’s robot Melchior and Balthazar desk clocks. After that, Max 2.0 was left to his own devices, with this as the result. It is a very reassuring result for those concerned about the brand’s future after Maximilian Büsser’s eventual retirement, which isn’t yet imminent, but something the brand is clearly preparing for. Interestingly, Eric Giroud, who has designed just about every MB&F; watch, was not involved in the project either. Max (left) and Max (right). Image – MB&F; While discussing the project, Mr Büsser told me that Mr Maertens actually modelled the robot himself in SolidWorks, which goes well beyond the normal duties of a...