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Eric Giroud

Architect-trained Geneva designer behind MB&F\'s entire HM and LM series, plus Bovet, Manufacture Royale, Greubel Forsey commissions.
Wilbur Watch Co. Introduces the LEO, an Area 51 Inspired Watch with a Unique Jumping Hour Display Worn & Wound
May 23, 2023

Wilbur Watch Co. Introduces the LEO, an Area 51 Inspired Watch with a Unique Jumping Hour Display

Here at Worn & Wound, we’re all pretty big fans of watches that approach time telling in an unusual way. In our collections you’ll find regulators, watches with offset dials and movements exposed from the front, watches with no numerals or indices at all, and you might even catch a d.m.h jump hour if you spend enough time on our Instagram feeds. The watch we’re looking at today, the LEO by Wilbur Watch Co., actually feels like an evolution of the d.m.h format – it’s a jumping hour mechanism that’s highly complex, but yields a surprisingly intuitive method for reading the time. And it comes in a big, bold package, partially inspired by a fascination with stories of extraterrestrials coming out of Roswell, NM and Area 51. So, you know, just a normal, everyday kind of watch.  At the heart of the LEO is what the brand refers to as the Engine One movement, an automatic, Swiss made caliber, designed by Wilbur Watch Co. Time is told via two discs on either side of the dial, one transparent sapphire, the other aluminum. The discs are each marked with symbols that look like hieroglyphics, which is part of the alien inspiration for the piece. Those symbols are designed to fit together to form numerals, though, as the discs rotate. The hour is read at the dead center of the dial, outlined with a bright blue ring, where the two rings meet. The minutes are read via a rotating ring at the outside of the dial (an arrow right below the hour indicator points to the current min...

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The Story of the Walter White Watch, from "Breaking Bad" to "Better Ca Teddy Baldassarre
May 19, 2023

The Story of the Walter White Watch, from "Breaking Bad" to "Better Ca

The sixth and final season of AMC’s prestige drama series Better Call Saul, the prequel to the award-winning Breaking Bad, dropped on Netflix back in April, and a wristwatch that appears prominently in the series finale has caught the attention of avid small-screen watch spotters. Some of them may remember - while others may have missed - seeing the watch for the first time in Breaking Bad, where it played an even more significant symbolic role in the storyline of its owner, Walter White, played by multiple Emmy winning lead actor Bryan Cranston. Here is the story behind Walter White’s watch and why it is so much more than just a prop. When we first meet Walter White, in the premiere episode of Breaking Bad on January 20, 2008, he is a somewhat pitiable figure: an underpaid, underappreciated high school chemistry teacher who drives a Pontiac Aztek (remember those?), wears a cheap digital watch, and struggles to support his small family, which includes caring for a son with cerebral palsy. In that same pilot episode, Walter learns he has terminal cancer - a diagnosis that triggers the desperate and increasingly ruthless quest for illicit riches and power that defines the arc of the series, as Walter evolves from hapless, nondescript educator to the crystal meth kingpin of Albuquerque, New Mexico. (Series creator Vince Gilligan has described its high concept as “Mr. Chips becomes Scarface.”) The first watch that we saw Walter wearing is a fairly humble one, a ...

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Citizen Enters the Affordable Integrated Bracelet Arena with the NJ015 Series “Tsuyosa” Worn & Wound
Citizen Enters May 18, 2023

Citizen Enters the Affordable Integrated Bracelet Arena with the NJ015 Series “Tsuyosa”

Five years ago, if someone were to ask me for advice on an affordable, reliable, all-purpose watch with some enthusiast/collector credibility, I’d definitely have Seiko on the tip of my tongue, and probably Timex and G-Shock as well. A brand that I might not have been as quick to mention would be Citizen, which is perhaps a bit ironic for me personally, because a Citizen is literally the first watch I can remember picking out for myself, years and years before this would become a hobby, let alone a profession. But something is happening at Citizen that is truly compelling. They’ve always had an expansive catalog, but recently they’ve been able to zero in on the stuff that really makes them special. Affordable, tactical divers are one avenue where they’ve had some success, and I’d argue they currently have a slight edge on Seiko in that department, overall. And with the recent release of the NJ015 “Tsuyosa” collection (the word means “strength” in Japanese) Citizen is making a play at the competitive “sporty, everyday casual” segment of the market with a colorful integrated bracelet option. Coming in at less than $500, these seem destined to appear on “recommended” lists. What we have here are straightforward, time and date automatic watches in stainless steel cases with integrated bracelets. The design is vaguely vintage inspired, but this type of watch is so common right now, it feels completely contemporary. The obvious point of comparison is Ti...

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Swatch Expands their Art Journey Collection with Three New Watches Inspired by Jean-Michel Basquiat Worn & Wound
Omega May 11, 2023

Swatch Expands their Art Journey Collection with Three New Watches Inspired by Jean-Michel Basquiat

For the last year, Swatch has existed primarily as the brand that makes and sells the MoonSwatch, their enormous, crossover hit made in partnership with Omega. It’s tough to underestimate the impact of the MoonSwatch on the watch world, mostly because its impact transcends the watch world. Your friends and family who are not part of the hobby, don’t read this site and others like it, and may not even own a watch, are almost certainly aware of the MoonSwatch. They’ve seen an advertisement for it, or have heard about it on the news, or perhaps they’ve stumbled onto the impressive MoonSwatch displays in a Swatch store, only to be told that the watches aren’t actually available to buy. Swatch has recently upped the ante somewhat on the MoonSwatch front by offering extremely limited versions with gold plated seconds hands, and it has me (and others) wondering if the hype for these watches has crested, and longing for Swatch to go back to making really cool Swatches like the ones so many of us grew up with.  The truth is, Swatch never stopped making exactly those kinds of watches, but they’ve been somewhat lost in the hysteria for the MoonSwatch. Now, though, comes a series of watches that I think might actually rival the MoonSwatch in terms of enthusiast interest, at least in some quarters. The latest entry in the Swatch Art Journey collection (that has already seen releases this year with watches based on pieces by Roy Lichtenstein, René Magritte, and others) is ...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: James Harden gifts NBA MVP Joel Embiid engraved Rolex Day-Date Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date Back from Japan May 5, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: James Harden gifts NBA MVP Joel Embiid engraved Rolex Day-Date

Back from Japan and a much needed R&R; week on vacation in Aruba with my family, it is great to return to the Friday Wind Down saddle. Thanks for holding it down Borna! While in any given week there is a fair bit of watch news, this week has really been dominated by Rolex with watch spots … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: James Harden gifts NBA MVP Joel Embiid engraved Rolex Day-Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Auction Watch: Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer SJX Watches
May 5, 2023

Auction Watch: Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer

Online watch auctioneers Loupe This have just listed a Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer in an online-only sale that runs from now till May 11. Barely a handful have emerged – one was sold at Phillips Perpetual in London in 2021 – but this example is the first to go under the hammer. The scarcity is of the Double Impulse Chronometer on the secondary market is simply because there are few of them in circulation. Around 50 have been made to date and with about a dozen being produced each year, the wait for an order placed now stands at about eight years. The exceptional demand for the watch is entirely justified, since the Double Impulse Chronometer is arguably the most significant English wristwatch in production today. Consigned by the original owner, this specimen is quintessential Frodsham. Numbered “010800” and delivered in September 2019, this is one of the first examples made, the 13th in fact, according to Richard Stenning, co-owner of Charles Frodsham. More notably, it is an unusual combination of a stainless steel case and white ceramic dial with double cyphers. According to Mr Stenning, this was the first of only two watches with this configuration made to date. The cyphers are an option but arguably crucial since they reference the firm’s history and add to the vintage-inspired styling of the dial. Historically found on Frodsham pocket watches – often engraved on the movement but sometimes on the dial – such cyphers indicated Royal Warrant...

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The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Chrono in blue Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Apr 28, 2023

The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Chrono in blue

The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Chrono is now available with a blue sunburst dial. The slide rule bezel can be used for all kinds of calculations, including various conversions and tipping percentages. At 44mm x 53mm, it’s not afraid to embrace size. Sometimes the most important aspect of a watch is its ability to … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Chrono in blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Christopher Ward Launches New Integrated Watch, The Twelve Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Launches New Integrated Watch Apr 27, 2023

Christopher Ward Launches New Integrated Watch, The Twelve

Christopher Ward has revealed an entirely new collection called The Twelve, an integrated bracelet sport/dress watch with slim dimensions, a slick dial texture, and, naturally, a 12 sided bezel piece. The new watches take a broad slice of inspiration from history, and land in relatively familiar territory as a result, however, as a whole, end up representing something unique in the sub $1,500 price range: a fully integrated steel or titanium bracelet paired to a sub 10mm case with a chronometer spec movement inside. The brand is quite upfront about taking a page out of history with this one, going so far as directly naming the standard bearers to place their watch in some pretty prestigious company right off the bat.  The Twelve is a 40mm watch that gets steel and titanium variants. The steel examples measure 9.95mm in thickness, while the titanium pair shave a full millimeter off that number to crack just under 9mm. The lug to lug distance is 44.5mm, and that measurement appears to be taken from the ends of the case that link to the bracelet, which are fixed male pieces. The weight of the steel watch is 65 grams, while the titanium tips the scales at a mere 41 grams. Overall, an impressive set of numbers that should equate to a pretty incredible on-wrist experience, though we can’t say for sure until we’re able to get some hands-on time with it. Each of the material options utilize Sellita automatic movements, with the steel getting an SW200 rated to +/- 20 seconds p...

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A Case for Letting Go: Lessons Learned from “Want to Buy” Listings, the Passage of Time, and Mark Cho Worn & Wound
Apr 21, 2023

A Case for Letting Go: Lessons Learned from “Want to Buy” Listings, the Passage of Time, and Mark Cho

I don’t like selling watches. I don’t think I’m alone here among watch collectors and enthusiasts, but when the time comes to let a watch go, it gets my anxiety up. There’s just nothing about the process I enjoy. Being lowballed or tire-kicked on the forums? No thanks. Worrying if a stranger is going to claim you sent them an empty box? Hard pass. And then there’s the existential dread, wondering if you’re doing the right thing, conflating a watch sale with a Sophie’s Choice type of scenario that has real meaning, when in fact, it’s actually just a watch.  Nine times out of ten, selling a watch is a process that I one hundred percent do not recommend. But at the same time, we all have to recognize that it’s an essential part of the hobby for just about everyone. I recently had an experience selling a watch, though, that made me rethink how I approach the “dread” aspect of this whole deal, as described above. I’m still not sure about dealing with strangers on the forums, but my outlook has shifted a little bit.  As it so often happens, I found myself looking to replenish the Watch Fund with my eyes on a future purchase. My particular problem here was that I didn’t have a clear idea of what I wanted to sell. I just knew that I needed to raise some cash. I found myself browsing through the r/watchexchange “Want to Buy” listings, just to see if, by sheer dumb luck, someone might be after something I’ve got. I actually don’t own a lot of watc...

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Checking out the Sinn T50s in Geneva Worn & Wound
Sinn T50s Apr 11, 2023

Checking out the Sinn T50s in Geneva

The Sinn U50 is one of those watches that watch enthusiasts collectively knew would be a huge hit when it launched in 2020. Though essentially a shrunken-down U1 (with half the water resistance), it was Sinn doing what they do best. Humbly making incredibly rugged, high-spec, modern tool-watches, and making it seem easy. Thin at 11.3mm, well-sized at 41mm x 47mm for a modern, but not oversized fit, and built to withstand 500 bar of pressure, it demonstrated that good engineering prevails over scale. The only problem has been a lack of new versions since launch. There was a blackout LE with a dark MOP dial, which was cool, if not for everyone (Sinn’s head of marketing, Sabine Kleiter wears this watch, and it always looks striking). And then the U50 Pro, which was a date-free remix, with the crown up at 10. Another great-looking version, it was sadly limited to 150 pieces and to the North American market. Both are great, but neither a true addition to the line. And then, in 2023, we got what we wanted. Well, sort of. Rather than building on the U50, Sinn launched a sibling watch called the T50. At a glance, they seemed a lot alike, but there are quite a few differences as well making them a slightly different beast. If I were to liken it to something, it would be the higher-priced sport trim of the same base model car. They have the same dimensions and general design, particularly regarding the case, but are made out of hardened titanium, gold bronze (a patent-pending allo...

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Panerai Introduces their First Annual Calendar as Part of the Radiomir Collection Worn & Wound
Panerai Introduces their First Annual Apr 7, 2023

Panerai Introduces their First Annual Calendar as Part of the Radiomir Collection

Among the new releases from Panerai at this year’s Watches & Wonders, we find what amounts to a first from the brand: a pair of annual calendars. While Panerai has dabbled in perpetual calendars, the annual calendar compilation is a new venture. This has always felt like an under-appreciated complication to me in an environment where perpetual calendars tend to get all the plaudits. For the relatively minor inconvenience of having to make a manual adjustment to the calendar on the first day of March, you get a calendar complication that’s very nearly “set it and forget it” at what often amounts to a significant discount over comparable perpetuals. While these new Panerais aren’t exactly rubbing up against the value end of the spectrum (they are both well into the five figures, with cases in precious metals), they do represent something genuinely new in the Panerai catalog, which is always going to be of interest to the brand’s dedicated base of collectors.  The new annual calendars are both found in the Radiomir collection, which is Panerai’s sleeker case design (compared to the Luminor) with vintage style wire lugs and a squared off cushion case shape. Gold and platinum options are available (Panerai refers to their alloys as “Goldtech” and “Platinumtech”) and the cases measure 45mm in diameter. Panerai enthusiasts and collectors will tell you that a 45mm Radiomir case wears quite a bit smaller than the numbers would indicate, because thanks to the ...

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SJX W&W; Highlights – Value Propositions and The Not-Quite SJX Watches
Louis Erard stands out Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights – Value Propositions and The Not-Quite

Maybe unsurprising given the state of the industry – watchmakers enjoyed record sales in 2022 – value buys were few at Watches & Wonders (W&W;) this year. Amongst the independent watchmakers, just two stood out for being value buys, the Kudoke 3 and Urwerk UR-102 “Reloaded” – both of which I covered in my highlights amongst the indies. Not quite an independent watchmaker but niche nonetheless, Louis Erard stands out for the Excellence Marqueterie. Probably the best value amongst its many limited editions, the Excellence Marqueterie brings the art of wood marquetry to a previously unheard of price segment. Although it costs only about US$4,000, the Excellence Marqueterie features a dial decorated with tiny pieces of exotic wood that have been sawn and applied by hand to form an M.C. Escher-like pattern. The Excellence Marqueterie. Image – Louis Erard Like most other niche brands, Louis Erard exhibited outside the halls of W&W;, where all of the establishment brands were located. Amongst the big names, only Tudor offered substantial value with its new models, although that is not news in itself since value is a fundamental characteristic of the brand. (Though it is arguable that Rolex offers strong value in all its models regardless of price, but certainly not as much as Tudor.) Two watches stood out amongst Tudor’s 2023 line-up. One is the Black Bay 54, a watch clearly conceived by aficionados with an eye for detail. Just 37 mm in diameter, it resembles a vinta...

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The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Has One of the Most Ingenious Chrono Displays We’ve Seen Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Has Mar 31, 2023

The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Has One of the Most Ingenious Chrono Displays We’ve Seen

The lineup from Jaeger-LeCoultre at this year’s Watches & Wonders is remarkably focused. When I received the embargoed press releases a few weeks ago, I’ll admit to a slight twinge of disappointment at the apparent lack of variety. It would be a Reverso year for the watchmaker’s watchmaker, and vague hopes that I always have for a recommitment to high spec but elegant sports watches were once again dashed. My disappointment (it’s  an overstatement to even call it that) was short lived, as I began to dig into those very same press releases and began to realize that we were likely to see some beautiful stuff from JLC. The Reverso is such a great watch, it’s tough to be anything but charmed by them at the end of the day.  The most interesting of the new Reversos that I saw is also the most clever, and is a fun, practical, and beautiful use of the iconic hinged case and the capacity for the watch to feature two dial displays. The new Tribute Chronograph is part of a large package of new references in the “Tribute” category, all paying tribute to the original Reverso in their perfect proportions. For the chrono, we get two references, one in gold and the other in steel, each with a dial that tells the current time and a secondary dial that displays elapsed time via a rather ingenious chronograph display.  Think about almost every chronograph you’ve ever seen, and you begin to realize that a circular case and dial are practically core to the complication itsel...

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Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54 SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Mar 29, 2023

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54

In 2012, Tudor broke the ground by introducing the Black Bay, a steel dive watch whose attractive design and price point have always offered a value proposition for enthusiasts. Through the years, the format has been updated from its larger 41 mm case down to 39 mm, as seen in the Black Bay 58. Today, the brand has dropped the Black Bay 54 with a new, smaller 37 mm case. While its design is nearly identical to its larger sibling, the reduced size of the new Black Bay makes it more wearable. Initial thoughts  The 37 mm size of the new Black Bay 54 really sets it apart – perfect for those who prefer a classic look and slimmer watches. Its sophisticated simplicity makes it appropriate for both genders without sacrificing the utilitarian styling that has made the lineup popular through the years. As is typical for Tudor, the value proposition is outstanding. At CHF3,450 in steel on a rubber strap (and slightly more with its matching bracelet), it is priced competitively against comparable sports watches. The combination of vintage-inspired design, excellent build quality, and affordable price point makes the new Black Bay 54 a winner. Vintage-inspired but in a more compact case While the original Black Bay was 41 mm, the 54 is considerably smaller but wears well on the wrist. It takes inspiration from an earlier diver from Tudor’s history, the Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7922 that was issued primarily to the French and American navies but was later used by civilian tech...

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Parmigiani Fleurier dresses up the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier dresses up Mar 27, 2023

Parmigiani Fleurier dresses up the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante

Parmigiani Fleurier follows up arguably their best 2022 release with a precious metal version in 18k rose gold The sleek GMT watch features a stunning hand-guilloché grain d’orge dial highlighted by 18k rose gold appliques Combining rattrapante and GMT functionality, the PF051 calibre may just be the greatest thing since sliced bread Causing a splash … ContinuedThe post Parmigiani Fleurier dresses up the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Louis Erard Introduces the Excellence Marqueterie SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Mar 25, 2023

Louis Erard Introduces the Excellence Marqueterie

After several consecutive hit collaborations, Louis Erard debuts its first with a wood marquetry dial. Arguably its most ambitious release yet in terms of craftsmanship, the Excellence Marqueterie features a dial inlaid with tiny pieces of wood to form an M.C. Escher-like motif. For the dial, the brand tapped Bastien Chevalier, a Swiss artisan who specialises the art of creating designs and patterns out of intricately cut pieces of wood, although other materials like stone, silicon, straw, and even leather can be used for the technique. Initial thoughts In my view, most watchmakers tend to collaborate only as a last resort, when they’ve run out of ideas. What sets Louis Erard apart is its coherent strategy for collaborations. Whether created by industrial designer atelier oï, or a watchmaker like Vianney Halter, its collaboration editions are still recognisable as Louis Erard thanks to the use of the same steel case. And they are uniformly produced in small runs and priced below CHF4,000. The new Excellence Marqueterie continues this successful formula, bringing wood marquetry to the sub-US$10,000 category for the first time. While brands like anOrdain are doing something similar with affordably priced enamel dials that are designed for modern tastes, there’s never been a marquetry dial at this price point. Not only does the dial look good, it is impressively constructed from dozens of hand-made elements that require careful finishing. Despite the more complex dial...

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Send Us Your Recommendations And Suggestions Of Watches To Nominate For The 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Quill & Pad
Mar 25, 2023

Send Us Your Recommendations And Suggestions Of Watches To Nominate For The 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)

As GPHG Academy members, GaryG, Joshua Munchow, and Ian Skellern have been asked to nominate watches for consideration in the 2023 GPHG. And while they spend much of our lives immersed in the world of watches, they don’t know of everything out there and there may well be, and are likely to be, gems that they are not aware of. So please send us your suggestions and recommendations for watches in the 15 categories listed.

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Doxa’s New Sub 200 C-Graph II is Smaller, Slimmer & Ready for Your Next Cave Dive (Or Not) Worn & Wound
Doxa s New Sub 200 Mar 23, 2023

Doxa’s New Sub 200 C-Graph II is Smaller, Slimmer & Ready for Your Next Cave Dive (Or Not)

When I hear the words “Doxa Sub,” it’s hard for me to not start conjuring images in the ol’ noggin of that wide cushion, pebble-like steel case, the orange accented no-deco table splitting bezel duty with an elapsed time display, and the ever-so whimsical dial. The Sub 300 is a damn near perfect watch, in my humble opinion. But lately (over the course of two years), Doxa has given their flagship dive watch some company within their catalog by way of a couple releases that, at glance, might not resemble the Doxa you and I are used to. The brand with a storied history in the sport of diving and oceanic exploration has been doing some exploring of their own, but into different case design waters. I’m referring to their contemporary divers that use more of a conventional round case shape like the Sub 200 and the Sub 200 C-Graph. Recently, Doxa released the second coming of their Sub 200 chronograph with the Sub 200 C-Graph II. There are notable differences with the newcomer that include several models within the collection now sporting a steel bezel (as a traditional Doxa should have), a new dial finish, and smaller case proportions that amount to a more wearable, everyday diver. When the Doxa Sub 200 C-Graph was introduced in 2020, it reintroduced a chronograph into their expansive regular production diver collection. It was (and still is) a three-register chronograph that attempted to keep some of the vintage charm with its faux-patina markers. In terms of its case...

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Longines Expands Spirit Collection With New Flyback Chronograph Worn & Wound
Longines Expands Spirit Collection Mar 22, 2023

Longines Expands Spirit Collection With New Flyback Chronograph

The Longines Spirit collection welcomes a new member today with the release of a new Flyback Chronograph, bringing a (perhaps surprising) element of Longines heritage into the mix along the way. Longines may not be the first name that comes to mind when hearing the word ‘flyback’ but it probably should be, and this latest Spirit watch will serve as a reminder to the brand’s extensive history with the complication, which dates back to the 1920’s. Visually, the new Spirit Flyback Chronograph presents a cleaner execution than the existing chronograph, placing emphasis on the uniqueness of this complication, however the visual identity of the Spirit collection is clear and present here.  Let’s take a quick step back, and get a better understanding of Longines’ place in history when it comes to the flyback complication. Longines had a lovely chronograph movement called the 13.33Z first introduced in 1913, which, later in life, likely served as a testbed for the flyback mechanism that would flourish in the more well-known 13Z. As far as we know, Longines placed the first flyback mechanism within the 13.33Z in 1929, and it wouldn’t be until June 12th of 1935 that the brand filed for Swiss patent on the mechanism, which would go on to be granted in March of 1936 (Brevet 183262). There’s much more to read on the topic, which has been covered beautifully by SJX and collector Dr. Christian Müller right here. Not that Longines needed an excuse to release their own fl...

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Ollech & Wajs’ Astrochron S Combines a 500 WR Dive Chronograph with a Compass Bezel and Regatta Counter Worn & Wound
Mar 13, 2023

Ollech & Wajs’ Astrochron S Combines a 500 WR Dive Chronograph with a Compass Bezel and Regatta Counter

If I had a time machine to visit any point in history, my adventurous spirit would punch in the year 1969. This was already a period rich with daring exploration, technological innovation, and historical achievement that inevitably led to the culmination of the Space Race with NASA putting a man on the moon. But that wasn’t the only “high stakes” race going on at the time. Watch brands all over the world were jockeying for position to see who could make the most robust tool watch for explorers foraying into the most extreme conditions including the unknown depths of the ocean, mountainous death zones, and of course, outer space. Ollech & Wajs was one of the brands that were most certainly in the mix with their own multi-functional triple register chronograph aptly dubbed the Astrochron. The Astrochron’s distinctive multi-scale display made it a popular choice among engineers and scientists in NASA’s research and development lab including Chief Rocket Scientist, Werner Von Braun, or otherwise known as the “father of space travel.” Equipped with a rotating 12 hour bezel, tachymeter scale on the dial, chronograph timer, and a slew of other attractive tool watch features, the Astrochron found its way onto the wrists of sportsmen, pilots, and ship officers alike. Recently, Ollech & Wajs has decided to revisit the design and one glance will confirm that this isn’t your original 1967 Astrochron. With the new refresh, Ollech & Wajs’ already capable multi-function...

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eBay Finds: Classic Chronographs and Gold Cases Worn & Wound
Accutron Calendar Need some bling Mar 9, 2023

eBay Finds: Classic Chronographs and Gold Cases

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Pierce Chronograph First up this week is a gorgeous early vintage Piece jumbo chronograph. The fancy stainless steel case measures a healthy 37mm wide, and features brilliant curved lugs with stylin’ chamfers. The case does show some light wear, but overall looks pretty sharp. The dial looks original and shows a bit of patina as it should. The up/down subdial configuration with the upper dial being larger than the lower really stands out. The hands are diamond shaped and lume filled. I’m guessing the hands have been relumed, but they look good to me. Seller states the Pierce manual wind chronograph movement has just been serviced and works perfectly. Really sharp early chrono that has lots of character. View auction here. Solid Gold Bulova Accutron Calendar Need some bling in your life? Check out this vintage 1967 killer asymmetrical solid 14k yellow gold Accutron 218. If you don’t already know, the Accutron 218 is their second generation tuning fork movement and is an absolute classic. These are great movements that usually keep great time and the batteries are readily available. This model has a vertically asymmetrical shield shaped case with skinny lugs on top and fat...

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[Hands-On] The Heinrich Taucher 2, Now in GMT Guise Worn & Wound
Mar 7, 2023

[Hands-On] The Heinrich Taucher 2, Now in GMT Guise

Last year, I wrote about the Taucher 2 from Heinrich – a moderately sized dive watch packed with retro touches, even if not all of them were to my taste. Today, I’m looking at the next step in the evolution of the Taucher 2 line. There are a lot of similarities between the two models, but a few obvious changes as well – and not just the addition of a GMT hand. So, how does the Taucher 2 GMT stack up? Heinrich Watches are making this GMT available in three varieties. All are the same in terms of case and bracelet and differ only in the dial, and chapter ring, color. I’ve been spending some time with the ‘safe bet’ black dial as well as the more adventurous blue and yellow combination. These two are also joined by a white dial with a blue and white ‘Pepsi’ colored chapter ring. Each of the two models I’ve looked at not only differs in color scheme but also in texture. The blue dial gets a sunburst pattern, while the black dial is treated to something a little more unusual. The three-dimensional pattern resembles Clous de Paris, but on an enlarged scale, and with a curved pattern that brings to mind the lines of longitude and latitude as they span the globe. Such an impression is no bad thing on a GMT watch. $1500 [Hands-On] The Heinrich Taucher 2, Now in GMT Guise Case Stainless Steel Movement Sellita SW330-2 Elaboré Dial Black, Blue or White Lume BGW9 SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless steel Water Resistance 200M Dimensions 41x43mm Thickness 14mm...

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Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms “Tech Gombessa” SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Feb 27, 2023

Blancpain Introduces the Fifty Fathoms “Tech Gombessa”

Blancpain kicked off the new year with the first of several editions to mark the 70th anniversary of its landmark dive watch, the Fifty Fathoms. While the first anniversary watch was essentially a no-frills, vintage-inspired diver, the next one is the opposite. With a diameter of 47 mm, the Fifty Fathoms “Tech Gombessa” is one of the largest watches ever made by Blancpain. While it still bears some resemblance to its brethren in the Fifty Fathoms line, it is distinct in terms of design (and size). And it also features a complication that’s new for the brand: a three-hour hand and corresponding elapsed-time bezel for extended-duration dives. In fact, the Tech Gombessa is the first in the new Tech Gombessa line of dive watches for professionals. Initial thoughts I expected a reissue of the original Fifty Fathoms for its 70th anniversary (as I’m sure did everyone else), so the first edition wasn’t a surprise. I had also hoped for something more modern, which is somewhat of an understatement for the “Act 2” of the anniversary line-up. The Tech Gombessa’s design is clearly inspired by the original, but with lots of updates, for better or worse. While the elapsed-time bezel is fairly conventional ceramic insert, the dial is big, bold, and orange, though the mixture of modern orange typography with the vintage-style logos and lettering feels conflicted. The case is oversized with no lugs, instead the case goes directly into the case, which should help with erg...

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