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El Primero Zenith

Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).
Wiki · Guide
Panda / Reverse Panda Dial

Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.
Wiki · Guide
Telemeter Scale

Chronograph scale converting flash-to-sound time into distance. WWI artillery-spotting origin; vintage Longines / Lemania / Heuer.
Wiki · Guide
Pulsometer Scale

Chronograph scale reading heart rate in BPM after counting 15 or 30 pulse beats. The 1920s-60s doctor\'s watch standard.
Hands-On: The Chronograph Monopoussoir Sylvain Pinaud x Massena LAB Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Massena LAB takes another Aug 30, 2023

Hands-On: The Chronograph Monopoussoir Sylvain Pinaud x Massena LAB

Massena LAB takes another big step this week with the introduction of a new collaboration with independent watchmaker, Sylvain Pinaud. The watch, a monopusher chronograph, is immensely impressive, shifting expectations around the collaborative space as a whole. We had the chance to meet Sylvain Pinaud in Geneva during Watches & Wonders 2022 at a space dedicated to the AHCI (The Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants), where his Origine watch made one of the strongest impressions of the entire week. The watch would go on to nab a GPHG award for Horological Revelation later that year. If you weren’t familiar with that watch, this latest effort should place him firmly on your radar. This project, done in collaboration with Massena LAB, uses Pinaud’s existing Monopoussoir Chronograph movement, and places it into a new platform with a slightly more classically designed 42mm titanium case. That case is how the collaboration began, with the new design coming at the request of William Massena himself. The process resulted in enough interest to create a limited run of 10 pieces. The watch itself makes an immediate impression, with an open dial revealing the beautifully finished chronograph works below. The movement, crafted by Pinaud, is hand wound, and features an integrated column wheel and horizontal clutch, which can be started, stopped, and rest all via the single button nestled discreetly within the crown at 3 o’clock. Turning the watch on its side reveals an...

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Rolex Daytona: A Comprehensive Guide to the Iconic Racing Chronograph Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer Aug 24, 2023

Rolex Daytona: A Comprehensive Guide to the Iconic Racing Chronograph

The Rolex Daytona is today one of the most coveted and collectible luxury watches in the world, and indisputably a legend among racing-inspired chronograph wristwatches. But it was far from an overnight success. Read on to discover how the Rolex Daytona went from languishing on retailers’ shelves in the early 1960s to inspiring years-long waiting lists and stratospheric auction prices in the 21st Century, and how some racetrack cred and Hollywood star power lent a hand along the way. Since its founding in 1905, Rolex has grown to become the world’s undisputed king of luxury sport watches and one of the most influential innovators in watchmaking history. Rolex inventions like the waterproof Oyster case, the self-winding Perpetual movement, and the user-friendly magnifying Cyclops lens have had widespread influence in the watch industry, and iconic watch models like the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master have become the standards against which others in their category are measured. All that said, Rolex was relatively late to the game when it comes to one of the most popular sport-watch fields: the chronograph. By the early 1950s, the decade in which all three of the aforementioned Rolex models debuted, competitors like Breitling, Longines, and Heuer (today’s TAG Heuer), all of whom had established themselves as specialists in chronographs since before the 20th Century, were dominant in the space. Rolex had dabbled with chronograph models intermittently since 1937, b...

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HANDS-ON: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 and 1963 Heritage Chronograph Time+Tide
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Aug 12, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 and 1963 Heritage Chronograph

Watches & Wonders 2023 feels like a lifetime ago, but certain releases have stuck with us. Chopard’s L.U.C collection continues to impress with every release, and they doubled down on proving their worth at Watches & Wonders by unveiling both a reissue and a new design. The Chopard L.U.C 1860 returns to the collection’s 1997 … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 and 1963 Heritage Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Oskar Pascal OP483 Chronograph: The World’s First Watch in NASA-Grade, Ultra-Hard ZR01 Metal - Reprise Quill & Pad
Aug 12, 2023

Oskar Pascal OP483 Chronograph: The World’s First Watch in NASA-Grade, Ultra-Hard ZR01 Metal - Reprise

Oskar Pascal is the brainchild of a pair of Swedish brothers who were neither previously involved in the watch industry nor are they watchmakers. The engineer and designer have created a cleanly designed chronograph housed within the world's first watch case in ZR01, an amorphous alloy based on zirconium, one of the hardest metals in the world and even used by NASA. And then there are the Pods!

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Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf: My Once Predicted Winner for the 2022 ‘Best Chronograph’ at the 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève - I (kind of) Called it Right - Reprise Quill & Pad
MB&F; Aug 12, 2023

Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf: My Once Predicted Winner for the 2022 ‘Best Chronograph’ at the 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève - I (kind of) Called it Right - Reprise

When Tim and Bart Grönefeld showed Ian Skellern their prototype 1941 Grönograaf during Watches & Wonders 2022, he loved it. But he didn’t think it would win “Best Chronograph” 2022 at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève because he thought that prize would go to the then-soon-to-be-released MB&F; LM Sequential EVO. Ian has since changed his mind, and here's why.

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Singer Reimagined Streamlines the Clever Central Chronograph SJX Watches
Singer Aug 3, 2023

Singer Reimagined Streamlines the Clever Central Chronograph

The watchmaking arm of vintage Porsche rebuilder Singer, Singer Reimagined has just taken the covers off the 1969 collection, a pair of watches that reimagine (no pun intended) the brand’s trademark central chronograph, the 1969 Chronograph and the simpler 1969 Timer. Like the brand’s prior models, the 1969 duo are vintage inspired and share the familiar cushion-shaped case and inventive Agenhor movement. But they are now smaller and more wearable, and in a first for the brand, are fitted to a matching bracelet. Initial thoughts In choosing 1969 as the inspiration for the brand’s latest series of watches, founder Marco Borraccino has selected a platform that allowed him both a historical connection to the past and an aesthetic palette from which to draw. The idea is particularly clever for a young brand with no heritage of its own. Choosing instead to focus on the industry-wide heritage for the brand’s most central complication is something of a sideways masterstroke. Pleasingly, the brand communication has refrained from laying it on too thick in this regard, so we can enjoy the pieces for what they are without the story getting in the way of the facts. To me, these two pieces are a welcome addition to the catalogue. I’m never one to ignore an uptick in wearability and this certainly offers it. Achieving this without sacrificing any of the brand’s aesthetic cues is a job well done. While there is a massive drop-off in functionality from the Chronograph to the ...

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TAG Heuer Flies the French Motorsport Colors with Limited Edition Monaco Chronograph in Racing Blue Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Flies Aug 1, 2023

TAG Heuer Flies the French Motorsport Colors with Limited Edition Monaco Chronograph in Racing Blue

A surefire way to know if a watch brand has a design that can withstand the test of time is instant recognizability. There’s no need to have the brand name positioned front and center because its unique styling and distinguishable silhouette are more than enough. From across the room, there’s no mistaking the TAG Heuer Monaco. Its square case, left-hand-drive crown and dual sub-register display immediately fires the synapses in our watch nerd brains. Throw in the Hollywood fame and a namesake that represents one of the most famous racing circuits in all of motorsports, then you have a watch that arguably cements its place on the Mount Rushmore of watches. The TAG Heuer Monaco remains as a platform for the brand to explore their avant garde ways, as well as to lean into their rich heritage and connection to motorsport across the world. With the latter in mind, TAG Heuer has announced the Monaco Chronograph in Racing Blue inspired by French motorsport liveries. French racing blue can trace its presence on the racing grid back to race cars such as the CD Panhard LM64 and the Bugatti Type 35 Grand Prix Racer to present day with the Alpine Endurance Team. The saturated shade of azure is now incorporated into the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph through its signature rounded-corner sub-register display. As a part of automotive color theory, designers are tasked with bringing inanimate objects to life and simultaneously making them look fast in the process. That’s a noticeable ...

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Baume & Mercier updates the Riviera Chronograph with warm, two-tone hues Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier updates Jul 28, 2023

Baume & Mercier updates the Riviera Chronograph with warm, two-tone hues

Continuing their Riviera-focused Watches & Wonders 2023 form, Baume & Mercier has revealed yet another update to their sporty integrated bracelet watch. While the year’s biggest watch fair saw two new Riviera releases celebrating the model’s 50-year anniversary, this mid-year update zeroes in on bringing a popular colourway to the Valjoux-equipped Baume & Mercier Riviera … ContinuedThe post Baume & Mercier updates the Riviera Chronograph with warm, two-tone hues appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Roger Dubuis Combines the Inclined Balance and Flyback Chronograph SJX Watches
Richard Mille which Jul 21, 2023

Roger Dubuis Combines the Inclined Balance and Flyback Chronograph

One of the latest releases from Roger Dubuis, the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph, makes the most of its openworked dial to show off a newly-developed calibre, the RD780, which combines an inclined balance wheel with an integrated chronograph. A complex movement with two patents pending, the RD780 is notably elaborate with unusual features like a digital minute counter and twin barrels. And technically-minded enthusiasts will also note the RD780 boasts diamond-coated silicon escapement parts, which are both wear- and magnetism-resistant. Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current chronographs distinguish themselves through bold design and flashy technical features. While the style is outlandish, it is refreshing to see this unique approach to a chronograph design, particularly since the technical features are novel and interesting, such as the inclined balance wheel and column wheel, visible through the openworked dial. But the Excalibur chronograph’s technical merits are perhaps overshadowed by the design, which is excessive in a hyper-mechanical style. The chronograph’s dial is busy, even for an openworked dial. It is not easy to read, even when compared to what is being offered by the likes of Richard Mille, which is perhaps the closest comparison to the Excalibur chronograph. The Excalibur chronograph is priced at US$101,500, making it more affordable than the equivalent from Richard Mille, the RM 72-01. In fact, the Excalibur is half as expensive as the Richar...

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In-Depth: Petermann Bédat Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Ming ly good finishing seem Jul 20, 2023

In-Depth: Petermann Bédat Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Having made its debut in 2020 with the 1967 deadbeat seconds, Petermann Bédat recently unveiled its second watch, the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph. The 2941 lives up to the benchmark established by its predecessor with a traditionally-styled movement that is decorated to an impressive degree, albeit one that reflects constraints in its development. The brand’s founders, Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, are both watchmakers in their early 30s who studied watchmaking in Geneva before a stint at A. Lange & Söhne. The pair also spent time carrying out restorations of vintage watches. Their shared experience is illustrated in the 2941, most notably in the traditional decoration and styling of the movement. Initial thoughts When Petermann Bédat made its debut in 2020 with the 1967, a time-only with deadbeat seconds, independent watchmaking was a much less crowded space. As a result, the 1967 stood out for both its intrinsic qualities, namely excellent finishing and traditional mechanics, but also the fact that it was fairly novel. Now time-only watches with seemingly good finishing seem to be everywhere, most of which are even similar to the Petermann Bédat profile in having founders in the their 30s and 40s. So Petermann Bédat did well in introducing a following up with something more complicated for its second model. The 2941 continues with the aesthetics of the 1967, essentially a modernised “sector” dial, and also the movement finishing. The quality...

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TAG Heuer Hits The Seas With New Carrera Skipper Chronograph Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Hits Jul 13, 2023

TAG Heuer Hits The Seas With New Carrera Skipper Chronograph

These are the kinds of midweek surprises I can get on board with. TAG Heuer has revealed a new Carrera Skipper chronograph in the 39mm chassis we saw (and loved) earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. This is a regular production variant of the Carrera that makes excellent use of the sublime Skipper colorway we first saw in the late ‘60s, and most recently in the 2017 limited edition Carrera Skipper for Hodinkee. The color scheme feels right at home in the modern Carrera shoes, with plenty of small details to discover along the way. Best of all, it doesn’t feel like a vintage recreation, it feels purely modern through and through, taking full advantage of the new ‘glassbox’ design of the Carrera.  The latest Carrera sports a range of blue, green, and orange hues in a reflection of the original colorway which made the watch so distinctive. The base dial is a deep blue with contrasting seafoam hour totalizer at 9 o’clock, and multicolor minute totalizer at 3 o’clock, which splits the counter into 5 minute segments to more accurately find your position going into the start of a yacht race. The final five minutes, as well as the timing seconds hand, are rendered in orange, denoting their importance to the operation. There is a running seconds hand within a third, almost hidden sub dial appearing at 6 o’clock, which isn’t framed and thus is the same color as the base of the dial. Only the indexes and the hand itself give its position away. The unique new ‘gl...

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Bell & Ross Collaborates with the Alpine F1 Team for a New Take on the BR 05 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Collaborates Jul 11, 2023

Bell & Ross Collaborates with the Alpine F1 Team for a New Take on the BR 05 Chronograph

The latest in the ever expanding lineup of the Bell & Ross BR 05 collection, their popular integrated bracelet sports watch, is a new chronograph reference featuring the colors of the Alpine F1 team, a Bell & Ross partner since 2016, when the team operated under the Renault banner. This is a follow up to a trio of 2021 releases marking the inaugural year of Alpine’s involvement on the F1 circuit, a set of chronographs that still make a lot of sense given the motorsport connection. The new watch builds on the aesthetic established by those that have come before it, combining the distinctive Alpine colorway with an integrated bracelet platform that has proven to be surprisingly durable and adaptable since it was launched in 2020. The phrase that comes up over and over again in Bell & Ross marketing materials for the BR 05 is “sport chic,” and we have to admit, it fits the bill. These are not pure sports or tool watches in the sense that we’ve always understood them. They’re made, primarily, to look nice. They have well executed integrated bracelets, eye-catching finishing with dramatic transitions between brushed and polished surfaces, and an overall slender appearance. That’s the “chic.” The “sport” comes in the form of the watch’s specs, which put it on equal footing with its more tool watch focused companions in the Bell & Ross collection. The case and bracelet are made from stainless steel, water resistance is rated to 100 meters with a screw down c...

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TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch SJX Watches
Richard Mille Jun 29, 2023

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch

Continuing from the unique piece made for the previous edition of Only Watch, TAG Heuer again experiments with its racing model for the upcoming charity auction. The Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch is the brand’s first-ever mechanical split-seconds chronograph, and channels strong avant-garde styling. Initial thoughts Finally adding a mechanical split second chronograph to the brand’s capabilities is a significant step for a TAG Heuer, who stand on their history of producing sporting chronographs. In contrast to the Monaco Carbon from 2021, the watch exhibits a significantly bolder aesthetic, aligning more closely with what one would expect from Richard Mille. However, unlike its counterpart, TAG Heuer’s approach to skeletonisation is tastefully restrained, focusing on a minimalist display rather than an overtly flashy appearance. One potential drawback of this release is the auction estimate, which ranges from CHF150,000 to CHF300,000. The inclusion of the new calibre and the utilisation of premium materials can justify the higher price. However, it is worth noting that the price point is consistent with what last year’s model achieved, which was CHF290,000, despite only having an estimate of between CHF50,000 to CHF100,000.  The winning bidder of this watch will also get a VIP experience of the Monaco Grand Prix next year, with access to the TAG Heuer hospitality suite, among other experiences over the weekend.  Avant-garde design Expertly mergi...

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Tudor Introduces the Prince Chronograph One Prototype for Only Watch 2023 SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Jun 29, 2023

Tudor Introduces the Prince Chronograph One Prototype for Only Watch 2023

Foreshadowing a return of the famous “Big Block” chronograph from 1976, Tudor has unveiled the Prince Chronograph One for Only Watch 2023. Featuring a striking 18k yellow gold case and matching bracelet, the Prince Chronograph One debuts Tudor’s first-ever in-house chronograph movement, the MT59XX – making it the first and only Tudor watch sold publicly to contain a yet-to-be-released prototype movement. Initial thoughts The Prince Chronograph One is an interesting debut for Tudor in many ways. Not only is it an attractive and well-conceived watch in its own right, it’s likely a sign of things to come, particularly with regards to the all-new in-house movement. Tudor’s prior Only Watch entries features unusual materials such as ceramic, bronze, and patinated steel; the Prince Chronograph One continues this trend. Tudor doesn’t often make watches in precious metals – the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18k is an exception – leaving that lane open for its sibling Rolex. The 42 mm case and bracelet of this unique piece are crafted from 18k yellow gold, and the screw-down crown and pushers are particularly faithful to those of the original “Big Block” and its sibling, the Rolex Daytona 6263. And it shows remarkable attention to detail that Tudor opted to produce its adjustable T-Fit clasp in 18k yellow gold for this one-off piece. The pairing of a yellow gold case with a black dial and bezel is also timely given the surging interest in the Rolex Daytona “Paul Ne...

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Louis Erard and Massena LAB Follow Up on Last Year’s Regulator with a New Monopusher Chronograph Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Jun 27, 2023

Louis Erard and Massena LAB Follow Up on Last Year’s Regulator with a New Monopusher Chronograph

Last year’s Massena LAB collaboration with Louis Erard, a regulator in an unmistakably classic style with variants in gold and rhodium dial executions, was a success for both brands, with the watch being shortlisted for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. This week, that release gets a follow up in the form of the new Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Louis Erard x Massena LAB, a monopusher chronograph that shifts the design language of last year’s release to a new complication. The driving force behind Massena LAB, to make a style of watchmaking typically reserved for only the most well heeled collectors accessible to anyone, is very much apparent in the new monopusher, as it takes both a complication and visual aesthetic that are often associated with a certain level of opulence and made them quite a bit more approachable. The monopusher is an interesting counterpoint to last year’s regulator. In terms of mechanical complexity, the monopusher has a clear edge, yet the design here is striking in its restraint. The regulator shows its time telling information in a busy cluster of hands and subdials, but with the monopusher we only get one additional register, a 30 minute counter at the 12:00 position. It’s a simple and straightforward execution of a complication that can often be something of an eye chart, and with the single pusher that simplicity is carried over to the chronograph’s literal operation as well.  Aesthetically, we get a similar treatment on the ...

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Nezumi Voiture is a milestone chronograph model for the Swedish brand Time+Tide
Jun 26, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Nezumi Voiture is a milestone chronograph model for the Swedish brand

There is a crucial moment in the existence of an independent brand when it adds mechanical movements to their core collections. This change seems to be as important as removing the training wheels from a kid’s bicycle, or getting that first job after college. This is important because mechanical movements are trickier to use and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Nezumi Voiture is a milestone chronograph model for the Swedish brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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[Video] Hands-On: SYE Mot1on Bullitt Limited Edition Chronograph Worn & Wound
Seiko VK64 Meca-Quartz Dial Green Jun 23, 2023

[Video] Hands-On: SYE Mot1on Bullitt Limited Edition Chronograph

SYE (Start Your Engine) is a French watch brand born of the founder’s interest in classic cars, and of course, watches. Not a new story, but their approach to watch design is. SYE has specifically honed in on the idea of leather hood straps for inspiration, appreciating how they incorporate a natural material in with otherwise metal creations. The result is the Mot1on (motion) series of watches, which utilize a novel, complicated, and stylish strap system to fuse metal and leather. $650 [Video] Hands-On: SYE Mot1on Bullitt Limited Edition Chronograph Case Titanium Movement Seiko VK64 Meca-Quartz Dial Green Panda Lume Hands Only Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 50M Dimensions 40.5 x 39.5mm Thickness 14mm Lug Width mm Crown Push-Pull Warranty Yes Price $650 As you’ll see in the video below, the SYE Mot1on chronograph comes in pieces in a box, requiring you to interact with the product upon arrival. Assembly is simple enough, and forces you to appreciate the quality of the product. The watch head has some unique details that give it personality, but the strap itself is what really impressed me. It’s a complex and high-end construction that could cost as much as the whole watch itself if a luxury brand made it. As someone with some experience in making leather straps, it really impressed me. The watch shown in the video is the Bullitt Limited Edition, which is the only SYE to feature a titanium case at this time. Measuring 40.5mm in diameter, it’s essential...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a black sunburst rendition of the Master Control Chronograph Calendar Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre presents Jun 20, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a black sunburst rendition of the Master Control Chronograph Calendar

This Master Control collection was launched in 1992 as a look back at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mid-century creations, but executed in a thoroughly modern way. It contains iconic features like the alarmed Memovox, but also this decidedly classic combination of complications – a chronograph and complete calendar with a moonphase. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar now … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a black sunburst rendition of the Master Control Chronograph Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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IWC is stealthy in ceramic for the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Time+Tide
IWC Jun 20, 2023

IWC is stealthy in ceramic for the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun

Many manufacturers have delved into the recent trend of brightly coloured dials fitted to slightly dressier, but still everyday-friendly watches. It’s fairly rare, however, that this colourful element continued into the cases, and this is where IWC’s ceramic-cased Pilot’s Watch line-up comes in. It’s no secret that their Pantone-tinged Woodland Green, white Lake Tahoe, and … ContinuedThe post IWC is stealthy in ceramic for the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Farer Introduces the Chronograph Sport Titanium Collection, with New Takes on Old Favorites in a Lighter Metal Worn & Wound
Farer Introduces Jun 15, 2023

Farer Introduces the Chronograph Sport Titanium Collection, with New Takes on Old Favorites in a Lighter Metal

Today, Farer has launched the latest additions to the Chrono-Sport lineup with their new Chronograph Sport Titanium collection. As the name suggests, these watches will be released in a titanium frame, versus the standard steel from previous models. Not only does this reduce weight by around 20%, but it also brings some of Farer’s most intriguing designs back to the forefront of conversation. Farer is a brand that knows what it’s doing and how to do it well. With an emphasis on updating classic designs with contemporary color combinations, Farer isn’t afraid to be bold without ever veering into the ostentatious. This can be seen with the two colorways for the Titanium collection: the Carnegie and the Bernina. Both inspired by the legendary motor races held in St. Moritz, each relies on a common design language that is somehow completely retro and totally modern all at once.  The Carnegie Titanium leans more towards the alpine nature of St. Mortiz with its complementary blue and bronze accents. With a subtle sunburst dial and accents of silver, it’s a watch that could easily be found on any racer worth his salt in the heyday of motoracing. The ceramic bezel, three subdials, and Super-LumiNova hour markers all finish the appearance of the Carngie to put it miles above others in its class in terms of appearance. Contrasting the cool Carnegie is the more vibrant Bernina, which puts the pedal to the metal for the Farer line-up. With red and off-white accents, it’s a ...

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Porsche Design Releases a New Chronograph 1 Paying Tribute to 75 Years of Porsche Worn & Wound
Porsche Design Releases Jun 12, 2023

Porsche Design Releases a New Chronograph 1 Paying Tribute to 75 Years of Porsche

Sometimes, weird things happen on the watch release calendar that result in an almost mystical kind of synergy. We didn’t plan today as “racing inspired chronograph day,” but the surprise release of a new Rolex Daytona paying tribute to the 100th anniversary of Le Mans and an equally surprising new Seiko chronograph with more than a little racing and competitive timing heritage means that today is all about the many flavors of tracking elapsed time. Rounding out a trilogy of new chronographs today, we have news of the latest limited edition from Porsche Design, a special variant of the Chronograph 1 celebrating 75 years of Porsche.  As car enthusiasts are likely well aware, this year marks the 75th anniversary of the first Porsche, the 356 No. 1 roadster. In the decades since, Porsche has become not just one of the most important carmakers in the world, but one of the most recognizable brands of any type. Porsche vehicles are known all over the world, and their iconic silhouettes and designs can be easily recognized even by people who don’t count themselves as car aficionados. The new watch, according to Porsche Design, is a tribute to the culture and legacy Porsche has built.  The Chronograph 1 75 Years of Porsche Edition is very similar to the 1972 Limited Edition variant of the watch released last year, and discussed by Blake here. The differences are honestly so minute, they might only be appreciated by the most rabid Porsche Design collectors, but this is a ...

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Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jun 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph

Drawing inspiration from the Kinetic Chronograph of 1999, Seiko’s latest is the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph. It is equipped with a new solar movement that has the ability to measure elapsed time with a resolution of up to 1/100th of a second, though its defining attribute is the design: the chronograph and time displays are separated into individual sub-dials. The SFJ007 made for the 2023 World Athletics Championships Initial thoughts Seiko’s sports chronographs, particularly those equipped with quartz or solar-powered movements, receive less recognition than their higher-end counterparts. However, some of the brand’s recent endeavours in this segment are interesting, and this is one of them. The primary point of interest in the new model lies in its unique aesthetic with a separated sub-dial design that fans of the brand recognise from the Kinetic Chronograph. The new Speedtimer reimagines the design with a smart and highly-functional movement and price tag of well under US$1,000, making it a compelling option for someone seeking an affordable sports chronograph. The Kinetic Chronograph from 1999. Image – Seiko Up to 1/100th of a second Having done away with the original closed dial of the Kinetic Chronograph, the Speedtimer features four registers beneath a curved sapphire crystal. Positioned at six is an oversized sub-dial displaying the time, while a 1/10th of a second chronograph sits at ten. The running seconds can be observed at 12, and a ...

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Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Street Diver Chronograph SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Jun 7, 2023

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Street Diver Chronograph

Two years ago, Louis Vuitton unveiled the Tambour Street Diver, a livelier iteration of its longstanding Tambour dive watch. Now the brand debuts the Tambour Street Diver Chronograph, adding further a stopwatch to the nautical-inspired aesthetic. Together, the two Street Divers now form the entry-level of the brand’s mechanical watch offerings, which progress upwards into seven-figure, minute-repeater-with-automaton territory. Initial thoughts The new chronograph is a natural progression from its predecessor, retaining the elements of a traditional dive watch, including a less-common inner rotating bezel, while incorporating Louis Vuitton’s bold and modern styling, including the tall, drum-shaped case. The design is as much “street” as it is “diver”, and very much in keeping with the brand’s aesthetic. Both the case and dial are executed well, although the two-tone case might not be to everyone’s taste. Enthusiasts, however, will note the ETA movement inside. The movement is reliable and robust, though the US$11,105 price tag deserves a more interesting calibre. That said, given Louis Vuitton’s well-funded ambitions in watchmaking, it is a certainty that the brand will soon roll out in-house calibres in all price segments of its catalogue. Nautically inspired The new chronograph available in two variations: Skyline Blue (blue with metallic sun-ray finish) and Neon Black (matte black), each matched with a case colour in the same colour. Both have the same ...

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Breitling Introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42 and AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Jun 6, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42 and AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition

Having already debuted an oversized take on the ref. 765 AVI “Co-Pilot” of 1953, Breitling now introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42, a scaled-down version that pays homage to the vintage original. Unlike its bigger brother, the 46 mm Super AVI GMT that features a second time zone function, the Classic AVI is a no-frills watch with just the time and chronograph. The Classic AVI makes its debut with a range of regular-production models, each inspired by a historical fighter plane, alongside the limited-edition AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition. Classic AVI Chronograph 42 Curtiss P-40 Warhawk Initial thoughts The Super AVI GMT is a vintage-inspired chronograph with an appealing design, but with the drawback of the 46 mm case – huge by even by modern standards. The introduction of a more compact version is welcome, even if this addition further expands Breitling’s extensive (and sometimes confusing) catalogue.  With its smaller case, the Classic AVI has arguably better proportions than its bigger brother, with dimensions better suited to the vintage-inspired styling. And because it is equipped with a Valjoux movement (otherwise known as the Breitling Caliber 23), the Classic AVI is amongst the most affordable Breitling chronographs, adding to its appeal. The P-51 Mustang The P-51 Mustang is the standout among the Classic AVI line-up. It has classic pilot’s chronograph aesthetics with a black dial and faux-patina Arabic numerals that provide a nostalgic feel.  But e...

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H. Moser’s New Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Has Been Unveiled with a Few Small Updates Worn & Wound
H. Moser s New Streamliner Flyback Jun 2, 2023

H. Moser’s New Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Has Been Unveiled with a Few Small Updates

As an object of pure fascination, there are few watch designs that come close to H. Moser’s Streamliner. I have been low key obsessed with it since the first Streamliner appeared in early, pre-pandemic 2020. That first chronograph was, at first, baffling to me. I found myself drawn to it even though I’m not really much of a chronograph guy, integrated bracelet sports watches aren’t my thing, and, at the time, I didn’t really appreciate Moser, either. At the end of the day, the Streamliner’s subversion of my own expectations of what a luxury integrated bracelet sports watch should be are what makes it successful. If you find the Royal Oak cold and clinical, the Streamliner is warm and organic by comparison. If the Nautilus is the choice of Patagonia-vested finance bros, the Streamliner gets the endorsement of sneakerheads. Even at its most opulent, it’s the kind of watch that makes me feel kind of giddy, as opposed to slack-jawed intimidation, which doesn’t always translate into a successful wearing experience in my opinion. In a landscape of integrated bracelet sports watches that all kind of feel like riffs on each other, the Streamliner still feels like a true original to me.  For those reasons, I’m always interested in new versions of the Streamliner. As a blank canvas, it’s capable of communicating all of the things Moser excels at, depending on how they decide to execute any particular reference. The latest Streamliner is an update to the original c...

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How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive Time+Tide
May 31, 2023

How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive

Watches and military history have an unbreakable bond. You only need to think back to the very beginnings of the wristwatch as a tool. During the Anglo-Burma War and First Boer War, soldiers began to strap pocket watch cases with primitive soldered lugs to their wrists, which opened the door for a new market. Fast-forward … ContinuedThe post How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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