Deployant
New: Kerbedanz Maxima GR8 39mm
Kerbedanz extends their Maxima GR8 collection with two new watches in ceramic cases, featuring their prominent centrally mounted flying tourbillon.
Results for Tourbillon
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Wiki · Guide
Flying Tourbillon
Alfred Helwig's 1920 tourbillon variant with no upper bridge; the entire cage is visible.
Exclusive · Guide
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition: A Ceramic Case Changes Everything
Moser's wildest Streamliner yet pairs a flying tourbillon skeleton with a ceramic case, all under the Alpine F1 banner
Exclusive · Guide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39: The Octagon Gets Its Most Serious Movement Yet
Four new calibers in 12 months. The latest drops a flying tourbillon and a micro-rotor into a 39mm Laureato case, and it looks the part.
Exclusive · Guide
Panerai Luminor Tourbillon GMT Titanio PAM01784: The Softer Side of a Big Complication
A tourbillon, a GMT, and a titanium case walk into a Luminor. The result is more restrained than you'd expect.
Deployant
SJX Watches
Ferdinand Berthoud, Inverted: The Chronomètre FB 2TV.1
Ferdinand Berthoud (FB), Chopard’s haut de gamme sub-brand, introduces its first flying tourbillon just weeks before Watches & Wonders. The Mesure du Temps 1787 Chronomètre FB 2TV.1 is exceptional in both quality and price, presenting almost everything of interest on the dial side - chain and fusee included - along with hacking and zero-reset seconds. The dial-side spectacle will be the calling card of the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. Initial thoughts The revival of long-dead masters’ names to sell unrelated watches is a practice that invites scepticism - and often deserves it. The Ferdinand Berthoud brand, however, is a different matter. There is nothing cynical about it, and one suspects the man himself wouldn’t mind being associated with some of the finest mechanical watches being made today - in his home town, no less. A different name on the dial, Scheufele perhaps, might still feel more authentic, but that’s a minor quibble with what is otherwise an overwhelmingly high quality watch. The latest take on the brand’s chronometer-inspired formula adds one of my favourite features: a zero-reset seconds hand. Though I prefer the designs of the brand’s past projects, the FB 2TV.1 suggests the team at FB understands what the market wants, and the movement-as-a-dial aesthetic is hot right now. The flying tourbillon is new for the brand, in both technique and aesthetics. Until now the brand’s massive revolving regulators were secreted away on the...
Deployant
New and Reviewed: Bell & Ross BR-X3 Micro Rotor
Bell & Ross released the BR-X3 Micro-Rotor of 2025, a more accessible version to the skeleton tourbillon released in 2025.
Monochrome
First Look - The New David Candaux DC6 Night Forest, In Carbon and Titanium
David Candaux, a native of the Vallée de Joux with experience at Jaeger-LeCoultre and collaborations as a concepteur horloger for renowned brands, launched his own brand in 2017 with the DC1. The watch that followed, the DC6, established his signature: a bassinet-shaped case, a 30° inclined flying tourbillon, and the patented “Magic Crown” at 6 […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Strehler Säntis, A Fine and Intuitive Worldtimer from an Independent Mind
Andreas Strehler is one of the most accomplished independent watchmakers. He is known for sophisticated creations such as the Sauterelle à Lune Exacte and the Trans-Axial Tourbillon, and his work has long been associated with complex mechanics and meticulous execution. With the launch of the Strehler brand three years ago, he aimed to make watches […]
Monochrome
Buying Guide - The Joy of the Snap, With 5 of Today’s Finest Retrograde Watches
I’ve always been a big fan of watches that have something moving on the dial, other than the smooth and consistent running of hour, minute and second hands. Whether it’s a dial-mounted balance wheel, a tourbillon escapement or even a winding rotor, I just love to see some type of action that goes beyond pure […]
Deployant
New: Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Flying Bridges
Girard-Perregaux releases the new GP9530 incorporates a minute repeater intertwined with an automatic openworked tourbillon with flying bridges.
Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Introduces the New Minute Repeater Flying Bridges
And just like that, it’s Super Watch Season. Every year we see a handful of watches that come to market that exist for the purpose of displaying the absolute pinnacle of what a brand can accomplish. Think of ultra complicated watches from Vacheron Constantin released in recent years, or pieces from Greubel Forsey focused on extravagant hand finishing and machining. The new release from Girard-Perregaux feels like a member of this rare category. The new Minute Repeater Flying Bridges combines a tourbillon and a minute repeater with GP’s famous “Three Bridges” movement architecture. The highlight here, beyond the rarity of a repeater, is that the new Calibre GP9530 is a self-winding movement (via a micro-rotor), which is exceedingly rare among chiming watches and, to a lesser extent, tourbillons. Girard-Perregaux has a long history in chiming watches that dates back to the 1820s, and the Minute Repeater Flying Bridges is fashioned as a tribute to those earliest repeaters, while being unapologetically contemporary in its design. Certainly part of that tribute is in the craftsmanship itself, and in the use of the most modern technology available to create the best chiming mechanism possible. To that end, the movement has been radically skeletonized not only for aesthetic reasons but to prioritize resonance. According to the brand, every technical choice made in the development of the new watch was made in the name of optimizing the sound of the chime. For a repeat...
Monochrome
In-Depth - Girard-Perregaux’s Superbly Technical New Minute Repeater Flying Bridges (Incl. Video)
Few timepieces showcase the technical sophistication of traditional watchmaking as clearly as minute repeaters. The new Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Flying Bridges introduces this complication with its demanding mechanism, combined with a tourbillon and an automatic micro-rotor winding system. The watch is built around the brand’s recognisable Three Bridges architecture, presented in a modern openworked interpretation […]
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Chimes the Time In-House
Girard-Perregaux (GP) is starting the year with an ambitious new calibre inside the Minute Repeater Flying Bridges, the in-house GP9530. Also equipped with a tourbillon, the symmetrical, skeleton movement is a micro-rotor automatic, making for an exciting pairing of complications. Notably, even during GP’s heyday as a manufacture, it depended on specialists for its repeater movements. The GP9530 is the brand’s first in-house minuter repeating calibre (though it does borrow from an earlier striking movement created with the help of a complications specialist). The strikework is exposed on the dial, while the reverse reveals the winding mechanism under circular bridges. Initial thoughts In the past couple of years GP has been slowly making a comeback, after a few slow years, as a serious and motivated manufacture. The comeback started with the release of the reworked constant-force escapement and accelerated with last year’s unveiling of the workhorse GP4800 and the GP9620 skeleton tourbillon. This is in some ways a return to form. Historically GP was a powerhouse in this respect, making complicated movements under its own name as well as supplying movements, both complex and simple, to other high-end brands. At that time, however, GP still did source repeater movements from the likes of Christophe Claret. In time, the evolution of the industry reduced the need for such outsourced movements, and the marquee’s lustre dulled. The Minute Repeater Flying Bridges and its ...
Worn & Wound
Otsuka Lotec Introduces the No. 8, a New Design Inspired by Abbey Road Mixing Consoles Featuring Jumping Hour and Retrograde Minute Displays
Otsuka Lotec has emerged as one of the most exciting Japanese independent brands, a corner of the enthusiast world that is greatly expanding at the moment. Otsuka Lotec has found a niche with (mostly) affordable watches with a steampunk aesthetic, with lots of exposed gearing and an overtly mechanical look and feel. I’m an owner of the No. 5 Kai, and it’s one of the most satisfying watches in my collection – there’s really nothing else quite like it, at least under $10,000. Prior to this week, the latest release from the brand was an ultra high end complicated piece with a tourbillon and chiming mechanism with a retail price soaring into the low six figures, but they’ve returned to earth with the all new No. 8, which once again combines complications unexpectedly and gives the wearer a unique view of the mechanism inside. Like the haute horlogerie adjacent No. 9 linked above, the No. 8 features a square case fashioned from stainless steel. Time is read via a jumping hour display on the left side of the dial, and a retrograde minute display on the right (there is also a running seconds indicator at roughly the 12:00 position). Figuring out how to read the time when you first encounter a watch like this is part of the fun, but once you grasp what’s going on, it’s quite intuitive. The current hour and minute are easy to see at a glance if you look for the red indicators that correspond to each. A video posted on Otsuka Lotec’s YouTube channel makes the drama...
SJX Watches
A Wishlist for Watches & Wonders 2026
Each year I find it surprisingly difficult to crystalise what I want to see from Watches & Wonders – perhaps I find it hard to hope for things I know will never come. Sometimes dreams aren’t logistically possible. For example, a compact Spring Drive chronograph probably isn’t reasonable given Grand Seiko already has its hands full scaling production of another new Spring Drive movement. At other times, imagination is bound by brand strategy: Cartier could easily steal the show with a quartz Crash Must priced along the same lines as a Tank Must – but never will. But I believe that the following watches, which I’d like to see from Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko and Credor, and Tudor are plausible enough to hope for. The following images were created without the use of generative AI. Patek Philippe In 2023, Patek Philippe launched the ref. 5316/50P, a minute repeating tourbillon with retrograde perpetual calendar and smoked sapphire dial. It remains among the brand’s best complicated offerings, other than the ref. 6301p, at least in my view. Last year Patek Philippe followed up with the ref. 6159G, which featured a smoked sapphire dial and the same perpetual calendar on a more pedestrian base movement. But if there is one reference more deserving of the smoked sapphire treatment than any other, it is the ref. 5236p in-line perpetual calendar, as imagined below in platinum. In 2021, Patek Philippe revived the historic in-line perpetual calendar, which is strongly asso...
SJX Watches
Moser’s Streamliner Goes All-Ceramic for the First Time
H. Moser & Cie. dips its toes into ceramic for the first time with the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic, a bold watch that blends an original design with the high-tech proprieties of ceramic. Despite being a variation of a well-known model at its core, the new Streamliner is unexpectedly different and appealing, especially with a hand-finished ceramic bracelet, an unusual feature even in its segment. Initial thoughts The use of ceramic materials in watches is no longer a novelty. The inert and hard material is appealing for its near-invulnerability to scratches and high tech feel. Ceramics are typically employed for either for aesthetic or technical purposes, but usually for watch cases, while ceramic bracelets are almost exclusively the preserve of large brands that can afford working with the hard-to-machine material. Though still a niche brand, H. Moser & Cie.’s bestselling Streamliner is dressed entirely in ceramic, with a ceramic case paired with a ceramic bracelet. An all-ceramic bracelet is a rare sight from a brand of Moser’s scale. The matte, brushed finish of the ceramic exterior is at the opposite end of the colour spectrum compared with the bright red yet minimalist dial, giving this the signature Moser look. The granular, glossy finish of the fired enamel dial contrast and complements the matte, stealthy sheen of ceramic. The watch is paradoxical in some ways. Pairing Moser’s first ceramic case and bracelet with a tourbillon is somewhat incong...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Horage Molokini GMT Diver Collection
Founded by Andreas Felsl and Tzuyu Huang in 2007, Horage approached watchmaking from an unconventional angle: rather than starting with design and sourcing movements, the company began by developing in-house calibres. Now Horage has a portfolio built around modular movement families, the automatic K1, the micro-rotor K2, the K-TOU with a tourbillon regulator and K-TMR […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton Rose Gold
Daniel Roth announced a subtle shift in its direction with the recent Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton. While the brand’s prior models like the tourbillon were essentially remakes of models made by the brand in the 1990s, the Extra Plat skeleton is an entirely new model that shares practically nothing with historical designs save for the case shape. Because the Extra Plat skeleton is, well, skeleton, it ably shows off the quality of execution on both sides. Beyond finishing, the movement also stands out for details that illustrate the taste of its constructor(s). It’s telling that the movement could have been done more simply without anyone noticing, but it wasn’t. Initial thoughts Daniel Roth’s resurrection got off to a strong start, underpinned by watches with top quality execution. The initial models, however, were remakes of 1990s originals. A brand with Daniel Roth’s ambitions (and well-resourced backer) won’t go very far with only replicas of historical models. The Extra Plat Skeleton illustrates the people behind the brand understand that. The Extra Plat Skeleton, in contrast, is the first all-new model rolled out by Daniel Roth in its current form. It encapsulates all of the strengths of the brand, namely the capable, high-end watchmaking of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) and the distinctive double-ellipse case. While the Extra Plat Skeleton is powered by a movement derived from that in the Extra Plat, it is clearly a different calibre. And because the movemen...
Deployant
New: Henri Grandjean Magician
The return of a legend. Henri Grandjean, now re-established as an independent watchmaker with a new triple axis tourbillon which they call the Magician.
Teddy Baldassarre
Enamel Dial Watches: 10 Of Our Favorites
Watches with enamel dials rarely fail to impress with their exquisitely finished surfaces, their impressive durability, and a level of artisanal craftsmanship that might not even be readily apparent to the naked eye but somehow elevates the entire timepiece to a higher level of luxury. Enamel dials - which are made by fusing finely ground, colored glass powders onto metal substrates through repeated firings in a kiln at high temperatures - are still fairly rare in the watch world, and almost (but not entirely) impossible to find below a certain echelon of pricing, Often, as in some of the limited editions below, an enamel dial is one essential component of a timepiece that combines several notable elements, including elite or unusual case metals, high-complication movements, or any number of special features. Here are 10 watches with enamel dials that have caught our eye over recent years. [toc-section heading="A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst"] Price: 315,000 euros at release, Case Size: 29.5mm x 39.2mm, Thickness: 10.3mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Manually wound Caliber L042.1 In 2008, German haute horlogerie house A. Lange & Söhne brought a technical upgrade to the tourbillon - an 18th century invention originally designed to shield a watch’s balance from the ill effects of gravity - that was both subtle and substantial. The Saxon brand’s Cabaret Tourbillon featured the first tourbillon movement with a st...
Fratello
Introducing: The Captivating CIGA Design Time Cipher
We have come to know CIGA Design for its original takes on classic watches. In particular, the Blue Planet series has received much praise from critics and fans alike. Late last year, the brand treated us to its Everest Summit Central Tourbillon, the second iteration of CIGA Design’s most ambitious release to date. For this […] Visit Introducing: The Captivating CIGA Design Time Cipher to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The 25 Best American Watch Brands (2026)
"Made in America" is a label that is much rarer to find on products now than it was 100 years ago, and that is especially true when it comes to watches. Once a bustling industry in the U.S.A., watchmaking largely migrated away from its traditional American hubs in the early 20th Century to countries like Switzerland and Japan, which still import oodles of watches to the States every year. However, American watchmaking has been seeing a slow, somewhat quiet renaissance over the past couple decades as a new generation of trailblazing entrepreneurs, from all across the U.S., strive to bring the horological trade back to these shores. Each of them takes a slightly different approach; some, like RGM, make nearly the entirety of their watch, including the movement, in the U.S., while others, like Shinola, import the majority of components but assemble the watches in an American factory, providing dozens or hundreds of local jobs. Here we take a look at 25 notable American watch brands, spotlight their leading models, and briefly examine how "Made in America" each one really is. [toc-section heading="RGM"] Founder: Roland G. Murphy Headquarters: Mount Joy, PA Notable Models: Pennsylvania Series 801, Pennsylvania Tourbillon, 801-A “Aircraft” “RGM” are the initials of Roland G. Murphy, the trained watchmaker and former Hamilton Watch Company technical manager who founded his own watch brand in Lancaster County, PA, one of America’s ancestral watchmaking centers, in 1992...
Monochrome
First Look - The New Hublot Big Bang and Spirit of Big Bang Coal Blue Collection
Few brands embrace colour and material innovation quite like Hublot. Since the original Big Bang in 2005, it has explored every imaginable fusion, from sapphire, ceramic, and carbon to precious metals, often paired with interesting chromatic tones. Think vivid Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM, ice-cold sapphire or titanium with chilly white ceramic of the […]
Time+Tide
Hublot aces LVMH Watch Week 2026 with Novak Djokovic GOAT Editions & Big Bang Original Unico collection
A new Big Bang Tourbillon Novak Djokovic GOAT Edition and Big Bang Unico Original collection are the highlights of Hublot's LVMH Watch Week.The post Hublot aces LVMH Watch Week 2026 with Novak Djokovic GOAT Editions & Big Bang Original Unico collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Zenith Expands The Defy Skyline Line At LVMH Watch Week 2026
Ceramic, skeletonized, tourbillon, and 36mm versions expand the Skyline range.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Louis Vuitton Revives The Escale Worldtime Alongside A New Dual Time Complication
The Escale Worldtime is back with a gorgeous hand-painted dial and a tourbillon option, while the new Twin Zone tracks any two time zones, anywhere, including half-hour offsets.
Monochrome
First Look - Hublot Samuel Ross Big Bang Unico SR_A
Hublot and British designer Samuel Ross join forces again and present the Big Bang Unico SR_A. Building on Ross’ previous collaborations with the Big Bang Tourbillon, the multi-talented designer, creative director and artist applies his particular design codes to a limited edition of 200 Big Bang Unico pieces. Tamer than the tourbillons, Ross’ vision for […]
Deployant
New: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime
The Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime returns in 2026 with a pair of platinum models, one with a tourbillon and enamel dial elements. Press release with commentary in italics Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime Commentary The Escale Worldtime has been a defining model for the Escale collection since its debut in 2014. In fact, I’d go oneRead More
Monochrome
First Look - The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph in Black Ceramic
Introduced in 2022, the Defy Skyline series quickly evolved into one of Zenith’s core collections, to include time-only, skeletonised, and tourbillon-regulated models, all distinguished by their faceted geometry and star-patterned dials. The launch of the Defy Skyline Chronograph in 2024 finally united the brand’s most iconic complication with the collection’s distinctive angular aesthetic. Now, following […]
Monochrome
First Look - The new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton
It should now be known by most watch enthusiasts that the highly revered name Daniel Roth, often seen as one of the precursors of independent watchmaking in the 1980s, was resurrected by Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique Du Temps. The return of the brand was done gradually, first by launching the Tourbillon, a watch deeply inspired […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Hublot Launches Its Fourth Collaboration With Samuel Ross With The Big Bang Unico SR_A
Following three editions of the Big Bang Tourbillon, this new release marks a much lower price point with the designer's take on the brand's flyback chronograph.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Returns Home with the Escale Worldtime
Louis Vuitton revives its emblematic Escale Worldtime complication with significant technical upgrades and metiers d’art craftsmanship. Powered by a new family of mid-sized movement from La Fabrique du Temps, the collection comprises two models distinguished by their decorative treatments: the standard Worldtime features a hand-painted flag disc reproducing the brand’s iconic trunk motifs, while the Worldtime Flying Tourbillon elevates the execution with an arduously made champlevé grand feu enamel city ring requiring 40 firings to achieve its kaleidoscopic palette. This reimagining of the worldtime complication draws directly from Louis Vuitton’s heritage of hand-painted personalised monograms on historical trunks - a visual language no other watchmaker can authentically claim - translating the brand’s trunk-making legacy into haute horlogerie. Initial thoughts Last year, Louis Vuitton launched a new line of high-end movements built and decorated to the standards of industrial-haute horlogerie automatics from the likes of Vacheron Constantin or Patek Philippe. These movements debuted in the Tambour Taiko Spin Time, a complication requiring a small-diameter movement - 23 mm in that case. Though finely made, these movements were arguably too small for a ~40 mm watch, as seen with the otherwise excellent Monterey re-issue. Demonstrating the impressive capacity of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), Louis Vuitton has filled that void in its movement portfolio with a li...
Deployant
Six tourbillons to start the new year!
We kick off the first listicle for the year. with a tourbillon on a wristwatch. We make our pick of the top six from recently launched models.