Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: The Tudor Black Bay Chronograph
Do a movement from Breitling, and a design that mixes vintage dive watch and chronograph details, add up to a winning watch?
4,212 articles · 18 videos found · page 56 of 141
Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).
Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.
Chronograph scale converting flash-to-sound time into distance. WWI artillery-spotting origin; vintage Longines / Lemania / Heuer.
Chronograph scale reading heart rate in BPM after counting 15 or 30 pulse beats. The 1920s-60s doctor\'s watch standard.
Hodinkee
Do a movement from Breitling, and a design that mixes vintage dive watch and chronograph details, add up to a winning watch?
SJX Watches
Originally a late seventies model that was relaunched in 2021, the Tissot PRX was unsurprisingly a smash hit, largely because it is one of the most accessible Swiss-made watches with an integrated bracelet. And now Tissot has elaborated upon the design with the PRX Chronograph Valjoux. Initial thoughts The PRX Chronograph is a logical but attractive iteration of the original idea. The angular case and bracelet that characterise the PRX are perfect in a larger size with a sporty, contrast-register dial. More notably, Tissot made the smart choice of moving away from the typical (and sometimes boring) black and white for the “panda” and “reverse panda” dials, instead opting for more striking combinations – particularly the silver dial with gold markers. While the construction of the base-model PRX is simple, the chronograph gets more interesting as there is more real estate for details. The stepped, rectangular pushers, for instance, are especially attractive because they echo the case shape, while also having slight bevelling along the edges that add a bit of visual refinement. While the design appealing, it’s weighed down by the case thickness, which is almost 15 mm. That said, given the case is wide at 42 mm in diameter, it has good-enough proportions. Another nit to pick is the awkward position of the date, but that can only be fixed with a much smaller case (or much larger movement), both of which are not viable at this price point. The PRX Chronograph are pr...
Time+Tide
The PRX Automatic Chronograph was always going to be a big deal. In its essence, it stands to be a hot chronograph line extension that, knowing Tissot, won’t come with an exorbitant price tag. And, with all of our collective fingers crossed, we hoped it would be mechanical. Someone pushing their luck might have had … ContinuedThe post Things are about to get crazy. The Tissot PRX now comes in a Valjoux-powered 42mm panda chronograph, and Australians can order it here today appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
An anniversary chronograph that demands your respect.
Time+Tide
The 2022 Formula 1 racing season is set to kick off this month in Bahrain, and motorheads the world over couldn’t be more primed. Interest is at an all-time high, considering all the on and off-track drama from last season, the success of Netflix’s Formula 1 – Drive To Survive series, the effects of the … ContinuedThe post Bremont celebrates Williams Racing partnership with the WR-22 chronograph and racing box set appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Amongst those who know me in the metal, and, to be fair, if you have read my previous coverage of the brand, you know I am an avid collector of Kurono watches. Their classic-inspired designs and sizing really works well on my smaller wrist, and their exploration of colour has helped liven up the variety … ContinuedThe post A multi Kurono owner shares his tips to secure the new Chronograph II White Shiro appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Kurono drops a new chronograph - its third chronograph, with a brilliant white dial with red accents, also known as "shiro".
Quill & Pad
In the annals of A. Lange & Söhne history, the Double Split was one of the most widely celebrated releases. It introduced the idea of a split-second and split-minute chronograph allowing the wearer to time at least two events lasting up to an hour. The Triple Split is the inevitable progression of it, adding a split-hour function to allow timing two multi-hour events up to 12 hours.
Revolution
Full of warm tones and genuine history, the Hanhart Bronze 417 Chronograph Edition No. 2 “Copperhead” is a pilot’s watch for the stylish set.
Deployant
Sinn releases a new EZM, now 13.1 with a left hand crown arrangement and a diving chronograph capable of 500m water resistance rating.
WatchAdvice
What we love: Proper solid built watch overallClasp feel very secure on the wristGAS Tube Lume is sensational at night What we don’t love: Thickness, at 17.3mm some may find this hard to wear under the cuff Some may find the crown guard to be fiddlySome may find the Clasp can dig into the wrist Overall rating: 7.5/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 7/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 Once upon a time, if you wanted a mid-priced automatic chronograph, chances are it’ll be powered by the ETA 7750 (or one of its close siblings), and the only choice really was the brand and the style. The movement was so ubiquitous that it was literally everywhere and fitted to almost everything. The dial layout was distinctive, and the rotor wobble was familiar, instantly giving away the engine within. Don’t get me wrong. This wasn’t a bad thing. The movement is a low key high achiever, easily running within COSC specs day in and day out without so much as breaking a sweat. It is a tough, durable, workhorse movement, designed from the beginning as an integrated chronograph, making it very efficient and the “almost 2 days” of power reserve is a testament to that fact. You might scoff at the power reserve but keeping in mind that this movement has been around since the 70s, largely unchanged, and 2 days was the norm for many decades. Plus, if you wear it every day, then it’s really a moot point. The only thing that might generate heated debate is how much value you attac...
SJX Watches
In addition to new time-and-date models – led by the “Jumbo” ref. 16202 – Audemars Piguet revamped a few complicated Royal Oaks for the model’s 50th anniversary. At the top end of the complications line up is the flying tourbillon, while the most affordable is the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm ref. 26240. Like last year’s solid-gold Royal Oak chronograph on a strap, the new ref. 26240 is equipped with the cal. 4401, the brand’s latest-generation chronograph movement that made its debut in the Code 11.59 Chronograph. All 50th anniversary Royal Oak watches produced in 2022 have 22k pink gold rotors bearing the anniversary emblem, but plated to match the case colour Initial thoughts Technically speaking, the ref. 26240 is less of a new launch because the gold version was introduced last year. What sets it apart is the bracelet; last year’s model was available only on a strap. But ref. 26240 is newsworthy as it marks the first time a Royal Oak Chronograph (ROC) in steel – historically the metal of choice for the Royal Oak – is fitted with an in-house movement. The cal. 4401 is certainly an upgrade over the Frédéric Piguet cal. 1185 that equipped past versions of the ROC. The new movement has almost everything a high-end sports chronograph should have, such as a vertical clutch and column wheel, while also having extras like a flyback function for immediate restart of the chronograph. Notably, the cal. 4401 also improves the balance of the dial...
SJX Watches
When Vacheron Constantin celebrated its 260th anniversary in 2015 with the Harmony collection of cushion-shaped watches, the standout was easily the split-seconds chronograph. Seemingly ordinary on its face, the Harmony split-seconds was powered by the cal. 3500, an all-new rattrapante chronograph calibre with a novel automatic winding mechanism. The movement was gorgeous, but disappeared from the catalogue – until last year. The cal. 3500 made its comeback with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Like the other Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) watches, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is a limited edition – only 15 pieces in fact – that utilises platinum generously throughout the watch, but it is unique as there is no standard production equivalent in the catalogue. In short, it is a special watch. The cal. 3500 with its intricate chronograph mechanism and novel peripheral rotor Initial thoughts On its face, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is an elegant watch with a restrained, almost simple style. Its proportions are wide and slim, creating a graceful profile. The thinness exaggerates the case diameter slightly, so it does seem a bit wider than it is, especially with the longish lugs. In typical CEP style, the dial is nearly monochromatic, rendered in grey and silver, with the only colour coming from the indicator hands for the chronograph and power reserve. It’s a simple combination, but a good one. The pla...
Quill & Pad
Martin Green enjoys hiking to the Dutch beach in the winter. So when he borrowed a Tutima M2 Coastline Chronograph for a test he decided to put it through its paces at the coastline. The stormy conditions were challenging, but the M2 Coastline Chronograph proved its worth.
Time+Tide
Born in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is known for being the original luxury stainless-steel sports watch. The line has since grown and evolved, with multiple collections making up the Royal Oak name. The Offshore was developed to speak to the modern consumer, who at the time of its launch was skewing towards larger … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you’ve always found yourself attracted to the highly technical mechanical movements produced by the upper echelons of Swiss horology, but have been put off by the sometimes staggering cost of entry, CODE41 would like to talk to you. The focus of the conversation would be the CODE41 NB24 Edition 2 Chronograph, further pushing the … ContinuedThe post The CODE41 NB24 Edition 2 Chronograph offers complex Swiss watchmaking at an accessible price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In the world of microbrands, it can be hard to stand out amidst the barrage of vintage-style divers and explorer’s watches. What isn’t hard to stand out with? A super slick minimalist chronograph that could seamlessly blend into a sci-fi franchise, with a bright red-tinted sapphire crystal that almost glows with a fiery malice. Maurice … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Maurice de Mauriac L3 Sees Red Chronograph exploits coloured sapphire crystal for dazzling effect appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The much sought after Hanhart 417 Chronograph for Revolution & The Rake returns in 39mm, the size of the original 1950s 417 model, with a new bronze alloy and a stunning brown sunray dial.
SJX Watches
Resurrected two years ago with modern materials and tech, the Air Command was originally a 1950s wristwatch reputedly created for the US Air Force that was never serially produced, resulting in just a dozen examples made. With the success of the vintage-looking 2019 remake, Blancpain has followed up with the regular-production Air Command Flyback Chronograph in a modern palette, with a blue dial and a case in either titanium or red gold. Initial thoughts The Air Command reissue of 2019 was a hit. The 500-piece run sold out quickly and and now sells for slightly above the original retail price – a feat for a modern-day Blancpain. Unsurprisingly, Blancpain has stuck to the same successful formula with the new Air Command, which retains the same case and design, but manages to look quite different (and will no doubt feel different thanks to the case metal). The dial is finished with a “sunburst” brushing that gives it a metallic glint With its livelier colours, the latest version is arguably more striking than the original remake. At the same time, it avoids the pitfall of trying too hard to look vintage, as was arguably the case with the original limited edition. And the gold version makes sense as well. The Air Command is clearly a luxury-sports watch rather than a military-issue instrument, so 18k gold feels right at home with the design. For those who find titanium too dull or too affordable, the gold version is certainly the one to go for. Notably, Blancpain has...
Time+Tide
It’s one thing to salivate over pictures and Instagram posts, but hands up who remembers the first time they were fortunate enough to set eyes on a Laureato in real life? I do, and it was love at first sight. The month was January, the year was 2017, the time zone was Swiss and the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Girard Perregaux Aston Martin Laureato Chronograph has a dial that dazzles appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Girard-Perregaux marks the forging of its partnership with Aston Martin with a second time limited edition timepiece, the Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition
Time+Tide
Nerves of hardened titanium. Glacial water in his veins. What would cause the rest of us mortals to cry, lose control of bodily functions, and then pass out from sheer, white-knuckled terror is just another average commute to the office for record-breaking aerobatic and racing pilot Dario Costa. And he’s just done the incredible, again. … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Takeoff Automatic Chronograph celebrates racing pilot Dario Costa’s latest jaw-dropping feat appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
While many people around the world are passionate about watches, they are generally not their sole obsessions. Within our community, many are also enamoured with all manner of other things ranging from whiskey to baseball. But one area of interest that that seems to overlap with watches a great deal is that of motorsports. While … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC x Hot Wheels Racing Works Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Timepieces entered into the Chronograph category are mechanical watches comprising at least one chronograph indication, and here only two of the entries are brand-new models. Our panel has very differing opinions as to which of these six chronographs will (or should) win. Follow the discussion here!
SJX Watches
A model often overshadowed by “hot” watches or more complicated ones, the ref. 5905 combines a pair of useful complications into an everyday dress watch, but it was previously available only in a conservative, luxe guise of precious metal case and classical dial colours. But now Patek Philippe is changing up the feel of the model with the Annual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5905/1A. Now cased in steel and matched with a three-link bracelet inspired by the Aquanaut, the ref. 5905/1A retains the sectored dial found on earlier versions of the model, but now in olive green – the same shade found on the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s opening act for the year was the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A with an olive-green dial (and with the option of a diamond-set bezel), an immediate hit that has become one of the most sought-after watches of 2021. The Nautilus was already hot, as all sports watches with integrated bracelets are, but bestowing the most fashionable colour of the year on the “final edition” of the Nautilus ref. 5711 escalated its desirability to the stratosphere. That bodes well for the ref. 5905/1A. The ref. 5905/1A will be instantly attractive since it caters to current tastes. Its inevitable desirability will overshadow its intrinsic qualities (and also the accessible price), which is a bit of a shame. While intriguing it is not, the ref. 5905/1A is a good-looking watch, and one executed in a practical material while offering usef...
SJX Watches
A variant of a longstanding reference in the Patek Philippe catalogue, the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R-011 is only set apart by its slate-grey dial, but unusual nonetheless – it’s the sole model in Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications collection in that colour, where the predominant colours are silver, blue, black, and a splash of salmon. Initial thoughts Historically the split-seconds seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar in gold was often paired with a silver dial. But as the new World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P illustrates, Patek Philippe is continuing to add new colours into the regular catalogue, instead of reserving them for limited editions or special orders. The rose gold version of this reference is already available with a black dial as the ref. 5204/1R, but matched with a weighty and flashy rose gold bracelet. The new ref. 5204R in contrast is a relatively low key watch, which will appeal to anyone who wants a “Grand Complication” that’s, well, low key. The colour palette of the new ref. 5204R is a familiar because it works well. This makes the ref. 5204R the most appealing version of the model currently available; it is certainly more striking than the conservative model with a silver dial. That said, I do wish Patek had taken the opportunity to redesign the dial slightly, perhaps with slimmer hands and a moon phase display on the top of the lower register. As it is, the moon phase display leaves the dial bottom he...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe just launched a trio of new chronographs, all variants of existing models. While the ref. 5905/1A in steel is the most affordable, the World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P-001 is surely the most striking with its emerald-green guilloche dial (which is a brighter shade than the olive green of the ref. 5905/1A or Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014). And despite a dial colour that’s novel for a world-time model, the ref. 5930P does hark back to historical world-time watches with its silver cities ring. Initial thoughts The ref. 5930P is only a different take on an existing model, but it’s certainly a vivid new look. Past versions of the ref. 5930 were either subdued (which was the original in blue) or too much (the Singapore edition in red). The ref. 5930P in emerald green appears striking but just right. A key point of appeal is the silver world-time ring that gives it a look that more closely resembles vintage world time watches, which is a good thing for anyone who appreciates historical Patek Philippe design. This contrasts with earlier versions of the ref. 5930, both of which had tone-on-tone world-time rings, making them less prominent. Notably, Patek Philippe historically utilised such bright colours only on limited editions, so the ref. 5930P is an unusual watch amongst the standard offerings. That said, with green being the most fashionable colour of the year, it goes without saying that the ref. 5930P will be mostly unavailable for the near future. Emerald g...
Revolution
The private watch group Collective Horology has teamed up with IWC to create the Pilot’s Chronograph C.03, a watch that the founders of Collective refer to as a love letter to IWC. The pared-back pilot certainly evokes the golden era of Blümlien’s IWC through fine details, but the calibre is much more modern and, surprisingly, on-show through a sapphire back.
SJX Watches
Seiko’s current offerings are wide-ranging in both style and price, but its mechanical chronographs aren’t particularly outstanding – a surprise given the Japanese watchmaker’s historical prominence with the complication. Seiko, after all, was one of the first brands to debut an automatic chronograph in 1969, the same year Zenith unveiled the El Primero. Closing the gap is the latest launch from Seiko, the Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph (refs. SRQ035 and SRQ037), a blend of two historically-significant Seiko chronographs. The grey-dial automatic chronograph is based on Seiko’s 1964 chronograph wristwatch, while the white-dial version is modelled on the 1964 stopwatch Design-wise, it is modelled on the timepieces Seiko conceived for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics where the brand was the official timekeeper, namely a hand-wind chronograph wristwatch and a stopwatch. But the new Prospex chronograph is a self-winding chronograph with a full-spec movement. So technically, it takes its cues from the the Speedtimer ref. 6139 of 1969. Like the ref. 6139, the new chronograph is equipped with an automatic movement incorporated both a column wheel and vertical clutch for the chronograph. Initial thoughts Seiko has launched countless vintage-inspired models in recent years, with diver’s watches forming the bulk of the remakes, which makes the new chronographs unusual, simple because they are chronographs. At the same time, they are aesthetically unusual since the di...
Quill & Pad
When the Royal Oak Offshore launched in 1993 its timing was perfect: the bolder, larger, louder sibling of the Royal Oak was one of the trailblazers of the oversized watch trend. Nearly three decades later, the line's large sizing has mellowed down a bit. While it never comes close to becoming a dress watch, the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph does a mighty fine job of outlining how the complicated future of this collection might evolve.
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