Hodinkee
One To Watch: How This Young French Watchmaker Is Making Tourbillons Cool
With one subscription watch already in rotation, 25-year-old Remy Cools is just getting started.
2,293 articles · 4 videos found · page 59 of 77
Breguet's 1801 rotating-cage escapement, explained.
Alfred Helwig's 1920 tourbillon variant with no upper bridge; the entire cage is visible.
Twelve years on, the watch that introduced chiming complications to Jacob & Co. returns with a transparent red mineral crystal dial and meaningful mechanical updates.
42.8 mm × 11.4 mm, lug 22 mm, Cal. R 27 HU
Hodinkee
With one subscription watch already in rotation, 25-year-old Remy Cools is just getting started.
Deployant
As we hinted in our list from last Sunday's top tier tourbillons, we will be recommending six more this week with a somewhat more friendly budget.
Hodinkee
Please allow me to introduce myself, I'm a watch of wealth and taste.
Quill & Pad
Ahead of Geneva Watch Days at the end of August and the European summer break, some independent watch brands have announced new watches. Here, Elizabeth Doerr highlights three of these new watches with eye-catching dials that really caught her own eye.
Revolution
MB&F; announces its latest take on the LM FlyingT featuring a dial plate and subdial in the vibrant green gemstone called malachite
Time+Tide
What’s better than one complicated Cartier? Three complicated Cartiers, especially when they arrive in a specially designed marquetery finished and lacquered wooden box. These three pieces that make up the new Cartier Fine Watchmaking Rotonde de Cartier Precious “Icons Set”, which share the two uniting themes of mystery and skeletonisation. But in a world where the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection delivers three platinum tourbillons in skeletonised form appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
MB&F; introduces a new Legacy Machine FlyingT in an 18k white gold case adorned in 120 diamonds, with a deep-blue lapis lazuli dial
Quill & Pad
Here are three intriguing tourbillons by Laurent Ferrier, Vacheron Constantin, and Piaget from the digital Watches & Wonders 2020 fair that particularly caught Martin Green's critical eye.
Hodinkee
Francois-Paul Journe tells the story of his tourbillons.
Quill & Pad
There is no shortage of tourbillons in every manufacturer's collection, and standing out from the crowd is challenging. Here Martin Green highlights three new tourbillons that, thanks to a generous dash of creativity, manage to differentiate themselves from the rest of the field.
Hodinkee
Same awesome watch; new awesome look.
Deployant
For 2020, MB&F; announces two new limited editions of the LM FlyingT – in red gold and platinum, without diamonds, both limited editions of 18 pieces each.
Revolution
MB&F; launches two new versions of its GPHG award-winning Legacy Machine FlyingT, now with beautiful guilloché dials from Kari Voutilainen.
Time+Tide
Time to Move, which took place last week in Switzerland, is the higher end Swatch Group brands’ alternative to Baselworld. And because they’re the prestige brands, it’s only fitting to expect some prestigious watches. We were not disappointed. Here are three watches that are less about telling the time and more about showing the world … ContinuedThe post A fistful of tourbillons and a fancy fish – 3 high-end standouts from Time to Move appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Throwback Sunday: Six tourbillons for when you win the lottery, with recommendations from Breguet, Lange, Greubel Forsey, Ulysse Nardin, Bulgari and Czapek.
Revolution
Avtomat Kalashnikova 1947, better known as the AK-47, is easily the most recognizable and, unfortunately, most widely produced and distributed assault rifle in the world. Designed in Russia in the aftermath of World War II, it was meant to put the most firepower possible into the hands of as many Soviet soldiers as possible, as […]
Deployant
Montblanc is a brand made famous by the wonderful writing instruments with the stylized snow cap. But they do make interesting watches too. Expecially since they took over the remainder of what was Minerva, and incorporated the movement manufacturing capability with the marketing juggernaut of Richmont. Two tourbillons caught my eye in this year’s cropRead More
Time+Tide
The H. Moser Pioneer Tourbillon Skeleton x Saquon Barkley pairs an aventurine dial with Moser’s cylindrical tourbillon in its first NFL collab
Fratello
This is not the first time you’ve read about cônillons. Do you still remember what a cônillon is? Let me jog your memory. It is a tilted tourbillon regulator with a tilted balance that follows a conical path rather than a conventional flat plane. It’s not a new concept. The American watchmaker Andrew Holden Potter […] Visit Hands-On With Two Cônillons: Trying Out The ArtyA Complexity Métiers d’Art to read the full article.
Monochrome
Frederique Constant has released the 2026 edition of The Elements Collection, an annual collector’s box set comprising three timepieces, each distinguished by a rare mineral dial. Presented in steel cases from the Classic collection and powered by manufacture movements, the Moonphase Date with a black onyx dial, the Tourbillon with a heliotrope dial, and the […]
Hodinkee
Backed by Breitling's House of Brands group, Gallet's return was hotly anticipated and closely scrutinized. Priced between $2,900 for a three-hand Flying Officer model with date and about $6,700 for the vintage-inspired 'Classics' models, replete with Breitling B09 hand-wound calibers, the revived brand's pricing at Breitling boutiques is certainly aggressive. Gallet's rebirth and price-category decision mark the most high-profile and ambitious attempt by the Swiss watch industry to reclaim a space it once owned but has largely ceded in recent years to so-called 'boutique' or micro-brands that have filled the gap left by traditional Swiss brands moving upscale.Over the past decade, brands have climbed the value-category ladder even higher, making fewer watches at higher prices. The so-called mid-tier premium—or luxury watches with an MSRP between $2,000 and $5,000—was once dominated by Swiss brands from Omega to Breitling to TAG Heuer and Jaeger-LeCoultre. And while TAG Heuer still produces plenty of watches in the category, including the solar-powered quartz Formula 1, much of its development and marketing resources have been focused on new pricier versions of classic chronographs housed in titanium or other lightweight materials including the highly innovative, but eye-wateringly expensive, Monaco 'Evergraph' retailing at more than $28,000. Several of the new Gallet watches are available on a steel bracelet that is the same used on some Breitling models. Photo Cre...
Hodinkee
We're on the eve of one of Patek Philippe's biggest events every few years: the October 2nd to the 18th presentation of the brand's Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. On Monday, I'll be flying there for a preview of the exhibition, so stay tuned for stories from that trip coming in the near future. Another story, which has been waiting in the wings and in progress for some time now, was a hands-on look at two of the most surprising (and potentially divisive) releases from Patek this year: the Cubitus perpetual calendar and the Celestial ref. 6105G. While all eyes were on the Nautilus's 50th anniversary, I thought Patek Philippe had a very interesting Watches & Wonders, at least from the perspective of bold releases and brand strategy. Truthfully, they could have done just about anything with the Nautilus, and those lucky enough to get a watch would have been happy. The Celestial alone was a wristwatch with a complication only four other brands have created. But just take a look at the two watches above and the two below. While I didn't get to see the ref. 7047G in person, it raised eyebrows for the very unusual blue tire tread-style dial (à la ref. 6007G) and remarkably strong orange accents and luminous hands and dial placed on a minute repeater that retails north of $570,000. It was perhaps so aesthetically surprising that it distracted people from the fact that Patek was honoring its past with a Calatrava-cased minute repeater reminiscent of the unique ref. 3652 and ...
WristBuzz
The Dutch brothers unite the remontoire, tourbillon, and signature design cues from their most celebrated references into a single tour de force
Monochrome
In watchmaking, pretty much every complication started with the quest for a solution to a common problem. The tourbillon solved the influence of gravity on the balance spring, the chronograph provided the ability to time events as they happened, and repeater watches served as an audible timepiece for when the lights went down. Perhaps above […]
Deployant
Reuben picks three standout releases from Geneva Watch Days 2026: the GP Laureato Fifty Tourbillon, MING 57.05 Comet and L’Epée The Football.
Monochrome
Greubel Forsey introduced its impressive three-dimensional GMT complication in 2011. Equipped with a rotating globe and an inclined 24-second tourbillon regulator, the complications were housed in imposing cases with a protrusion to accommodate the globe and a windowpane on the flank to admire its rotations. Ten years later, the brand introduced another GMT model in […]
Fratello
Gallet is returning to the watch industry in 2026, exactly 200 years after its founding in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The historic Swiss name returns as a sibling brand to Breitling, which will manufacture the new watches and provide the infrastructure behind them. The relaunch centers on four collections — Flying Officer, Multichron Pilot, Multichron Sport, and […] Visit Gallet Returns For Its 200th Anniversary With Four New Watch Collections to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Ferdinand Adolph Lange was born in Dresden on February 18th, 1815. Thirty years later he’d found his eponymous company, and 145 years after that a new A. Lange & Söhne would rise from the proverbial ashes of East Germany. The A. Lange & Söhne we know today debuted in 1994 when the brand launched four watches: the Arkade, Saxonia, Lange 1, and the flagship Tourbillon Pour le Mérite, which established a set of visual codes that would later define the 1815 collection. Today, the 1815 family is primarily known for its many time-only variants, the 1815 Up/Down, and, of course, the 1815 Chronograph. However, the 1815 collection also includes some of the brand’s most extraordinary, unusual, and rarely seen models. Lange 1815 Emil Lange Moon Phase (1999) The Tourbillon Pour le Mérite of 1994 defined the 1815 collection’s design codes, specifically the printed Arabic dial that is vaguely reminiscent of a pocket watch despite being an almost from-scratch design. However, it was not officially badged as an 1815. That designation arrived the following year with the refs. 206.021 in yellow gold and 206.025 in white gold. These introductions saw the rectangular movement inside the Arkade and Saxonia reformatted to make it presentable through a display case back. The extra space was put to use in the followup 1815 Up/Down, which added the namesake power reserve indicator and recreated the running seconds. In 1999, Lange launched the 1815 Moonphase Emil Lange (1849-1921) to mark...
SJX Watches
Ferdinand Adolph Lange was born in Dresden on February 18, 1815. Thirty years later he’d found the eponymous company, and 145 years after that a reborn A. Lange & Söhne would rise from the proverbial ashes of East Germany. The A. Lange & Söhne we know today debuted in 1994 when the brand launched four watches: Arkade, Saxonia, Lange 1, and the flagship Tourbillon Pour le Mérite, which established a set of visual codes that would later define the 1815 collection. Today, the 1815 family is primarily known for its many time-only variants, the 1815 Up/Down, and, of course, the 1815 Chronograph. However, the 1815 collection also includes some of the brand’s most extraordinary, unusual, and rarely seen models. Photo credits: @lelangelust and @scatteringphotons Lange 1815 Emil Lange Moon Phase, c. 1999 The Tourbillon Pour le Mérite of 1994 defined the 1815 collection’s design codes, specifically the printed Arabic dial that is vaguely reminiscent of a pocket watch despite being an almost from-scratch design. However, it was not officially badged as an 1815. That designation arrived the following year with the refs. 206.021 in yellow gold and 206.025 in white gold. These introductions saw the rectangular movement inside the Arkade and Saxonia reformatted to make it presentable through a display case back. The extra space was put to use in the followup 1815 Up/Down, which added the namesake power reserve indicator and recreated the running seconds. In 1999, Lange launched...
Hodinkee
What We Know I'll come clean—I've been a bit more than mildly obsessed with the modern revival of Daniel Roth ever since I got to spend some time with the Daniel Roth Tourbillon in platinum last year. While that watch very much still reigns supreme for me in the lineup, Daniel Roth has just announced a new watch today that feels awfully close to unseating the Tourbillon's title for me. It's the new variation of the Daniel Roth Extra Plat in rose gold, but this time, it's with a black gilt dial. What's important to note is that this is a true gilt dial, not the often misconstrued sense of the word that many modern watches like to use for accents and markings printed in a gold tone. As I've covered on Hodinkee in the past, a real gilt dial is made by taking a base dial blank, printing a protective lacquer mask on what are typically the positive markings on a dial, and then galvanically coating the entire dial in black. The masked portions of the dial are protected from the coating, and after the lacquer is removed, the base metal underneath serves as the dial text. The dial of this Extra Plat starts as a dial blank of solid 5N rose gold, then is engine-turned by hand on a rose lathe to achieve the guillochage on the various sections of the dial in recognizably Daniel Roth style. Afterward, all the markings—Roman numerals, the Daniel Roth logo, dial number, etc.—are pad-printed with a pink varnish to protect them during the subsequent electroplating treatments. After th...
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