Hodinkee
Introducing: The First-Ever Openworked AP Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon
AP goes X-ray.
2,292 articles · 4 videos found · page 6 of 77
Breguet's 1801 rotating-cage escapement, explained.
Alfred Helwig's 1920 tourbillon variant with no upper bridge; the entire cage is visible.
Twelve years on, the watch that introduced chiming complications to Jacob & Co. returns with a transparent red mineral crystal dial and meaningful mechanical updates.
42.8 mm × 11.4 mm, lug 22 mm, Cal. R 27 HU
Hodinkee
AP goes X-ray.
It's a beautiful work of ... something?
Revolution
Revolution recounts the importance of Roger Dubuis’ unique language in watchmaking in horology and how the brand’s dared redesign one of its fundamental icons for 2021.
Hodinkee
Evolution and revolution in watchmaking.
Revolution
Revolution
Hodinkee
The Royal Oak takes flight for the first time.
Hodinkee
Code 11.59 continues to evolve, with one of the most complex watches in the collection yet.
Hodinkee
Sometimes more is more.
Hodinkee
Grey matter.
Louis Vuitton, the brand that we know and love from the world of Luggage, Leather Goods and Fashion has been making astounding watches for some time, yet today they have kicked things up a notch, with a watch that certainly marks a new era of intent and vision from the brand. We at Revolution are […]
Revolution
Today, recently appointed General Manager of TAG Heuer, Guy Semon dropped a bombshell on the Revolution team with news of an upcoming watch that certainly is a provocative statement of intent. We at Revolution love our watches, and the passing parade of the best that the Swiss watch industry has to offer is by no means something […]
Revolution
In the rarified world of fine skeleton tourbillions, Roger Dubuis stands at the forefront. At SIHH, the Manufacture will introduce a timepiece that takes the art form to new heights: the Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillion. The Spider name is, of course, inspired by the creators of the complex, gossamer sculptures found in nature. The […]
Monochrome
With such a rich and varied repertoire, it is hard to believe that Czapek was founded as recently as 2015. Five years later, the brand introduced its first luxury sports collection, the Antarctique. To mark its tenth anniversary, the Antarctique was equipped with a spectacular flying tourbillon, framed by an equally striking guilloché pattern simulating […]
WristBuzz
A bold Victory Green guilloché dial and flying tourbillon make this limited Antarctique one of Czapek's most striking pieces yet
Monochrome
A young microbrand based in Paris, Inercy started out with a flying tourbillon at a price that makes the complication accessible to a much wider audience. Introduced in 2023, the One was a 42mm watch with a compass-inspired dial and a flying tourbillon. And, tagged at around 1,300 euros, it offered something spectacular for the […]
Hodinkee
What We Know It's always a great day when we get news from Bart and Tim Grönefeld. But this time, the news came with a lot of anticipation, as I've been getting a lot of texts and messages from people around the world asking what, exactly, the brothers were teasing on Instagram. First, I couldn't tell anyone, even if I did know—that's how embargoes work—but second, I only found out this morning. However, the brothers' new Quadrivium, with a 7.5-second remontoire with exposed governor, a one-minute flying tourbillon, central jumping seconds, and a power-reserve indicator, certainly was worth the anticipation. The watch combines highlights from the brand's history, especially the discontinued pieces customers kept asking for. The deadbeat seconds from the original One Hertz in 2010 are here. So is the GPHG-winning Parallax Tourbillon (which had a power reserve indicator) from 2014. Finally, the Remontoire was launched in 2016 and eventually became one of the earliest Hodinkee limited editions. All of this comes together in a compact 40mm by 11.3mm case, made in either tantalum or platinum, with the brand's "1941" collection design language: a polished, domed bezel; incut flanks and lugs; and a stepped shape to the downturned lugs as well. The dial is also quintessential Grönefeld, with a frosted main surface, hand-beveled stainless steel elements, and polished, multi-faceted white gold hour markers, topped with blued hands. The movement side is also exactly what you'd ...
Hodinkee
Serena Williams has been playing professional tennis since 1995. In the decades since, she has won 23 Grand Slam singles titles, but perhaps more importantly, she has broken through barriers of race, age, and background while upending tennis's traditional dress codes. Clothes, and by extension accessories, have always been part of that story. In 2022, New York Times chief fashion critic Vanessa Friedman called Williams "the game-changing tennis player" who used her clothes "as a statement of self and a weapon of change." Williams understood early on that what she wore on court could be another form of expression: sometimes provocative, sometimes playful. At the 2002 US Open, she broke conservative norms in a skin-tight black Puma catsuit, accessorized with a Harry Winston diamond bracelet. Seventeen years later, at the 2019 French Open, she wore a Nike look designed by Virgil Abloh for Off-White printed with the words "Mother, Champion, Queen, Goddess" in French, an especially pointed choice given that, just a year earlier, the tournament had taken issue with the black Nike catsuit she wore on court. Serena Williams at the 2024 Met Gala, wearing an Audemars Piguet Sandgold Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked . That influence has extended far beyond the baseline. A Vogue cover star, Met Gala co-chairwoman, perennial tennis-court style-setter, and personal friend of Anna Wintour, Williams occupied the increasingly porous space between sport and fashion long before the res...
SJX Watches
In exactly a week, Sotheby’s Hong Kong will stage Important Watches, an impressive, two-day auction that includes a selection of outstanding pocket watches from Switzerland and Great Britain, namely timepieces by Patek Philippe and Charles Frodsham, with most of the latter made by Nicole Nielsen. Three watches stand out from this already elite herd, built by the best of London and Geneva – a modern grand complication, one of the first-ever flying tourbillon watches, and a minute-repeating pocket chronometer. Despite a recent uptick in interest, pocket watches still offer phenomenal value, and are often the most interesting lots in auction catalogues for movement nerds. The pocket watches in Sotheby’s upcoming sale exemplify this. Lot 2293 – Patek Philippe ref. 942/2 “Grande Complication” This is a relatively recent example of a historical Patek Philippe genre, the grande complication pocket watch, one that dates back over a century now. The common watch complications fall into three categories: chiming, timing, and calendars. Chiming watches include repeaters in all their resolutions, plus clock watches, alarms, and hour strikers. Chronographs, rattrapantes, dédoublantes and independent seconds functions are timing complications. Calendar complications, besides the obvious, include moon phase, time of sunrise and sunset, and equation of time. A triple complicated watch combines complications from all three families. For Patek Philippe this traditionally meant ...
WristBuzz
An inclined flying tourbillon, carbon construction, and a flame-kissed dial that makes this DC6 variant unlike anything else on the market right now.
Hodinkee
What We Know In January of 2025, I covered Louis Vuitton's major evolution of its distinctive Spin Time series, debuting as the Tambour Taiko Spin Time series in a set of six limited-edition watches, all set in a single "Dolphin Grey" color scheme across several different takes on the complication, from the classic jumping hour to a flying tourbillon and even a world timer. It introduced a cohesive set of new in-house movements to power the complications and marked the first time every element of the Spin Time was produced in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton—cases, dials, movements, and more. It's been a while since we've heard anything about this collection, but this week Louis Vuitton introduced a new set of Tambour Spin Time watches into the brand's permanent collection. The main update to the permanent collection is a few fresh coats of paint, but the set of five references covers quite a bit of the Spin Time concept. All of these are set in the latest generation of Japanese drum-inspired Tambour case from the brand, with a sloped midcase complemented by screwed-in, sculpted lugs with laser-frosted interiors. On top is a sloped, predominantly sandblasted bezel ring with "LOUIS VUITTON" adorned on its periphery. All five of these new references are set in precious metal cases. Two 39.5mm Tambour Spin Times offer two very different wearing experiences (and price points). The simplest reference comes in the form of the Tambour Spin Time Green in White Gold,...
WristBuzz
Four new calibers in 12 months. The latest drops a flying tourbillon and a micro-rotor into a 39mm Laureato case, and it looks the part.
WristBuzz
Moser's wildest Streamliner yet pairs a flying tourbillon skeleton with a ceramic case, all under the Alpine F1 banner
Hodinkee
What We Know If H. Moser is guaranteed to do anything, it's to surprise us. A watch made out of cheese. A watch inspired by the Reebok "Pump." Those are easier to process because they're fun and a bit silly. But when Moser signed a deal to be a sponsor of Alpine's Formula 1 team, it was even more surprising to me. That's a serious sponsorship for a brand that makes far fewer than 5,000 watches a year and doesn't charge Richard Mille prices. But Moser is taking full advantage of the platform and turning out very sporty watches, including this new collaboration. This isn't the first collaboration between the brands; it began with a surprising smartwatch for the pit crew, paired with a skeletonized chronograph. Pierre Gasly (one of Alpine's drivers) also got his own limited edition. But this one takes the automotive inspiration in a different direction: lightweight and with all the Alcantara you could want (maybe even more). While Moser has done a Streamliner tourbillon in ceramic before, that watch came with a full dial and a ceramic bracelet. The 40mm by 12.8mm case is made of anthracite grey ceramic, but now it comes with an integrated light blue Alcantara strap, a synthetic microfiber material with a soft, suede-like texture. If you're into cars, you've run into this material a lot. Unlike the previous release, this is the first skeleton-flying tourbillon version of the Streamliner, made in ceramic. Powered by the HMC 814, the watch has blue-toned plates with diamond...
Time+Tide
L.Leroy introduces the Vox Temporis, an exclusive minute repeater and flying tourbillon. It features an unconventional single fixed hand with a rotating dial, inspired by a historic 1810 tact watch. Produced in titanium, red gold, and platinum, the watch is limited to just 15 pieces across all three case materials. For modern collectors, the appeal … Continued
SJX Watches
For it’s third M.A.D. Edition, MB&F; has reimagined Vincent Calabrese’s signature jumping hours complication. While still allocated via raffle, the M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese represents a significant departure for MB&F;’s entry level sub-brand, being the first to fully conceal the winding rotor and the first to be based on a historical design from a notable watchmaker. Initial thoughts Vincent Calabrese is a pioneering independent watchmaker who co-founded the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) alongside Svend Andersen in 1985. Mr Calabrese is perhaps most well known for developing highly original movements for other brands including the Corum Golden Bridge and the first-ever flying tourbillon wristwatch movement for Blancpain in 1989. But Mr Calabrese also produced watches under his own name, including the Baladin that served as the inspiration for M.A.D.3. Maximilian Büsser and Mr Calabrese have been friends for years and discussed collaborating on a watch project many times, but the M.A.D.3 is their first joint effort. The M.A.D.3 is affordable as such things go, at CHF2,900. That’s roughly equivalent to where original Baladins trade on the secondary market, depending on the specifics. But the M.A.D.3 is a worthy remake in a more contemporary size and should prove more reliable and easier to service when the time comes. For better or worse, the solid value proposition almost dictates a mechanism to manage demand, so buying a M.A.D.3 isn’t a...
Monochrome
Named after the illustrious 18th-century watchmaker Charles Leroy, L.Leroy made its return over the past couple of years with high-end complications such as the Osmior Bal du Temps Tourbillon Minute Repeater or the Elyor Flying Tourbillon. Yet, the first watch heralding this renaissance was a unique piece combining a minute repeater and a tourbillon that was presented […]
SJX Watches
Now beginning its second decade under the leadership of Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) has introduced the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1, the first model in the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. The FB 2TV represents an evolution of the brand’s long-running chain-and-fusee architecture, adding zero-reset seconds and a flying tourbillon, and inverting the calibre to exhibit its key functional elements on the dial side. Initial thoughts It’s hard to believe that it has been ten years since the debut of Ferdinand Berthoud as a contemporary brand. It was clear from the outset that FB had big ambitions, launching its first model with a chain and fusee mechanism. Since then, FB has maintained admirably high standards for itself, and while not all of the designs appeal to me, the obvious effort that goes into every watch — each FB 2TV receives more than 300 hours of decoration — has won the brand a durable position near the top of the industry. Now beginning its second decade, FB has released the first watch in a new collection that portends a more mechanically expressive style, with features like the chain and fusee inverted to the dial side. This approach isn’t original, but the success of other ‘inverted’ movements from independents like Kari Voutilainen demonstrate demand for the format. Quirky designs Ferdinand Berthoud, an 18th-century pioneer of the spring detent escapement among other breakthroughs, approached watchmaking fr...
SJX Watches
The Tourbillon Sidéral debuted last year to mark Breguet’s 250th anniversary. This year, the brand is celebrating the 225th anniversary of its founder’s best-known achievement: the tourbillon. For this occasion, Breguet released a quartet of new references, among them the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral ref. 7255PT, a 50-piece limited edition in platinum, once again featuring an in-house aventurine enamel dial. Initial thoughts Despite being the brand’s first-ever flying tourbillon, the Tourbillon Sidéral feels somewhat familiar. That’s because its cal. 187M1 is derived from the brand’s original wristwatch tourbillon movement, the cal. 558, released in 1989. That explains the familiar off-centre dial arrangement and full-plate architecture visible through the case back. Within this lineage, the Tourbillon Sidéral can be considered the spiritual heir and technical successor to the Classique Tourbillon Messidor 5335 released 2007, a watch that seemed to suspend its tourbillon in mid-air. In fact, this mystery tourbillon was driven by a sapphire crystal drive wheel, and its upper pivot was supported by a sapphire crystal bridge. The Tourbillon Sidéral elevates this concept to its natural conclusion, dispensing with the upper support bridge entirely, resulting in a true flying tourbillon. Unfortunately, the two-armed tourbillon cage itself spans almost the entire width of the opening, and at times resembles an upper support bridge, at least until the eye registers ...
Monochrome
Earlier this year, independent Swiss brand Bianchet expanded beyond its signature tonneau-shaped watches with the launch of the Rotondo UltraFino, a sleek round interpretation of its distinctive designs. With an ultra-thin profile, an integrated bracelet and a flying tourbillon movement, the titanium and carbon models introduced a more versatile side to the young brand while […]
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