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Power Reserve

How long a fully wound mechanical watch runs; 40h entry, 72h modern, 50d record.

Our Favorite Complicated Watches Of 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 27, 2025

Our Favorite Complicated Watches Of 2025

When the editorial team here at Teddy was tasked with picking some of our favorite complicated watches of 2025, there was an important distinction that had to be drawn. Of course, this was the fine line between our favorite watches that absolutely nail or master a specific complication rather than just the“most complicated” watches or watches with the most complications. This year we saw one of the best world timers for the money, a novel take on the moon-phase, and Audemars Piguet’s final Research & Development watch. So without further ado, here are our picks for our favorite complicated watches of 2025. [toc-section heading="Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic Power Reserve 40mm"] Sometimes we overlook the power reserve indicator as a complication in a watch - but indeed it is and Hamilton outfitted one of its most popular watches with a power reserve indicator on the dial thus setting the new Khaki Field Power Reserve to take its place among our favorite complicates watches of 2025. You will recognize this watch for bearing so many of the hallmarks of the Khaki Field Mechanical but with the added gas-tank indicator style gauge at the nine o’clock portion of the dial. It’s 40mm in diameter and a touch under 12mm in case height and boasts a new movement under the hood by way of the H23 manual winding caliber with 80 hours of power reserve and a slipping spring that allows for winding to exceed the manual maximum in a “quirk” that also serves to aid the watch...

Our Favorite Chronos Of 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 23, 2025

Our Favorite Chronos Of 2025

Chronographs are one of the most popular and yet under-appreciated watches out there. While we might take them for granted due to the relative ease of finding a nice one at just about any price point, the watchmaking on display can be as impressive as that from more exotic complications. 2025 was a fantastic year for fans of the chronograph with Omega releasing a manual wind iteration of their sportier ceramic take on the Speedmaster. And then there’s Breguet, who have been on a roll all year. Let’s take a look at our favorite new chronographs for this year and while not all of them made the list, there are some particularly robust honorable mentions here. [toc-section heading="Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph"] The Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph was given a refresh that, in my opinion, puts it in the running for one of the best chronographs out there period. It was previously offered only in a 42mm case but now comes in a fantastic compact 39.5mm wide stainless steel case that comes in at a lug-to-lug height of just around 47.4mm. Of course, it’s not just the case diameter that matters, it’s also the thickness and the reduction from a hefty 17mm to 13.4mm is truly transformative. The L792.4 calibre movement is a manual wind take on the Valjoux 7750 that also gets a contemporary makeover with a silicon balance spring and COSC certification on top of the 68-hour power reserve. While the price of $5,350 on strap and $5,500 might not shout “value” to some,...

Seiko Brings the Pink Panther to the Seiko 5 Sports Line Worn & Wound
Seiko Brings Dec 16, 2025

Seiko Brings the Pink Panther to the Seiko 5 Sports Line

Thinking back to the good old days of the video store, there were three cartoon series that my siblings and I picked more than any others: Looney Tunes, The Simpsons, and The Pink Panther. And while the former two long-running shows have had many hundreds (and even thousands) of tie-in products well into the 2020s, Pink Panther doesn’t seem to hold nearly the same level of pop culture ubiquity these days. Still, that shade of Pepto Bismol pink, visible from space, immediately brings to mind the iconic theme song and mischievous hijinks of the titular Panther and his foe, the bumbling Inspector Clouseau. Seiko has taken up the Pink Panther mantle with a new limited edition Seiko 5 Sports watch, and the bright hue isn’t the only clue to be found.  Based on the classic and ever-popular SKX series, the Pink Panther edition’s most immediately recognizable trait is its bright pink dial, and matching pink bezel numerals and markings, which also feature the cartoon’s playful typeface, a welcome deviation from more straitlaced designs. At 38mm in diameter and 44.2mm lug-to-lug, the Pink Panther is a true sports watch. The pink dial sports a date window at 3 o’clock, LumiBrite on the hands and indexes, and a cheeky trail of paw prints climbing up the left side of the face. Inside is a 4R36 automatic movement with manual winding, featuring 41 hours of power reserve and a stop second hand function. All of this is visible through an opaque pink caseback that also features th...

Hands On: Chopard L.U.C. Grand Strike SJX Watches
Chopard L.U.C Grand Strike Dec 11, 2025

Hands On: Chopard L.U.C. Grand Strike

The 30th anniversary of the Chopard L.U.C. manufacture was one anniversary among many this year, but it will likely be remembered thanks to the Grand Strike, the most complicated watch in Chopard’s history and its first grande sonnerie. Building on the successful Full Strike minute repeater architecture and making full use of the brand’s patented sapphire gongs, the Grand Strike is a chronometer-certified two-train clock watch with a push-button minute repeater. In this context, the presence of the tourbillon is almost a footnote. Initial thoughts I can count on one hand the number of brands that have created their own grande sonnerie wristwatch. It’s one of the few things in watchmaking that’s proven challenging enough to still be rare, even in the days of computer-aided design (CAD) and advanced manufacturing technology like wire erosion. For this reason, the grande sonnerie has a towering cultural presence among watchmakers and collectors, looming above all other complications. For Chopard, the Grand Strike represents the culmination of 30 years of the L.U.C. manufacture, the brand’s haute horlogerie division. The first impression of the Grand Strike is one of extraordinary depth. There’s not much of a dial, save for the minutes scale etched on the inside of the sapphire crystal, and the small concentric sub-dials for the dual power reserve displays. This depth shrinks the watch visually, and it feels dense and compact despite its rather large 43 mm size and...

Breguet Ends a Big Anniversary Year with the Impressive Expérimentale 1 Worn & Wound
Breguet Ends Dec 1, 2025

Breguet Ends a Big Anniversary Year with the Impressive Expérimentale 1

As if winning the top prize at the GPHG were not enough, Breguet has capped off their big 250th anniversary year with the launch of what is surely their most horologically interesting and cutting edge release in years. The Expérimentale 1 is an ambitious foray into contemporary haute horlogerie from a brand that more than most is associated with classicism. It incorporates and merges multiple technologies and advancements into a remarkably cohesive idea that might even have those of us who have always bristled at the controversial Marine collection rethinking its potential.  The showstopping feature of the new Expérimentale 1 is the tourbillon, the first ever to beat at 10 Hz. Bregust is quick to remind us that most tourbillons run at a rate of 2.5 Hz, so this represents a dramatic increase and in theory should provide a variety of chronometric benefits, including rate stability over the duration of the power reserve and a better baseline level of accuracy. But it’s not just a high frequency tourbillon. Breguet has also developed and introduced a new magnetic escapement that is designed to provide constant force to the balance. The logic here is fairly straightforward even if the mechanics themselves are, frankly, somewhat difficult wrap your arms around without real watchmaking experience (this, by the way, is essentially my constant of being as I observe similar watchmaking advancements – wide eyed and impressed but quite frequently confused by all the math and ph...

Did Tudor Read Our Minds? The Ranger is Now Available in a 36mm Size (With a New Dial Color) Worn & Wound
Tudor Read Our Minds? Nov 19, 2025

Did Tudor Read Our Minds? The Ranger is Now Available in a 36mm Size (With a New Dial Color)

Tudor just released a watch that fans have been clamoring for and perhaps manifesting since at least 2022. That’s the year Tudor released a new 39mm Ranger to a great deal of fanfare and also a great deal of “Well, this would be even better if it was just a little smaller.” To be fair, that 39mm Ranger was perceived by most as an improvement over the 41mm Ranger, introduced in 2014 during an era when the enthusiast voice demanding vintage inspired watches match actual vintage proportions was much quieter. Now, with a new Ranger in 36mm, it feels like it’s finally back to the correct size.  What’s more, Tudor has taken this as an opportunity to release the Ranger in a new dial color. The “Dune” colorway is a really appealing, creamy off-white with contrasting black indices and Arabic numerals. The hands match the color of the dial but have been given a black outline to improve legibility, which looks great. The key difference between the black dial (also available in a 36mm size and unchanged in layout from the larger version) is that the Dune dial does not have lumed numerals, but small lume plots next to each numeral.  The case, of course, is smaller, but the general design and proportions do not appear to have changed. It’s dominated by a brushed finish which bolsters the tool watch roots of the Ranger, and has a water resistance rating of 100 meters. The Ranger runs on the COSC certified MT5400 automatic movement, which has 70 hours of power reserve on...

Chopard’s Striking Vision Fully Realised – L.U.C Grand Strike SJX Watches
Chopard s Striking Vision Fully Nov 19, 2025

Chopard’s Striking Vision Fully Realised – L.U.C Grand Strike

Chopard marks 30 years of the Chopard Manufacture with the L.U.C Grand Strike – its most ambitious complication to date, a minute repeating clock watch with grande et petite sonnerie striking on a pair of sapphire gongs. This comes on the heels of Chopard’s sister brand, Ferdinand Berthoud’s Naissance d’une Montre 3, making 2025 arguably the most significant year for Chopard, product wise, since the 1997 launch of L.U.C. Initial Thoughts For hundreds of years the sound of clocks coordinated human society. In fact, the very word “clock” comes from the Latin word clocca, meaning bell. Before the noise pollution of the modern day, the bells of clock towers could disseminate accurate time over several miles. It is only that many first complicated the first watches, which were made by clock makers during the 16th century, were equipped with strikes. In 2016 Chopard launched its first self-developed chiming watch, the L.U.C Full Strike, a two-train trip repeater with sapphire gongs. It is not much of a surprise, I’ve multiple people speculate that a grande sonnerie was the next step given the design depictions Chopard made with the Full Strike. Even the name, “Full Strike” sounds like the name of a grande sonnerie, not just a repeater. The Grand Strike is class leading technically, it’s only weakness, the middling strike work power reserve is easily forgiven when considering its size. Aesthetically, however, the watch struggles, at least for me, though the si...

First Look – The new Kallinich Claeys Einser Zentralsekunde Voyager Edition Monochrome
Nov 17, 2025

First Look – The new Kallinich Claeys Einser Zentralsekunde Voyager Edition

Founded by former A. Lange & Söhne watchmakers Johannes Kallinich and Thibault Claeys, indie watchmaking atelier Kallinich Claeys has quickly become one of the most interesting names in contemporary Glashütte watchmaking. Their debut watch, the Einser Zentralsekunde, introduced a clear design approach and a thoughtfully constructed, in-house movement with central seconds and a linear power reserve […]

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Fall 2025 SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton resurrected Nov 17, 2025

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Fall 2025

A window into the early days of contemporary independent watchmaking, the upcoming Phillips Hong Kong auction offers an unexpectedly diverse line-up, including a single-owner collection of 1990s watches. The indie selection ranges from Daniel Roth in the late 1980s to Philippe Dufour’s influential finissage. And the historically-minded enthusiast will also notice the catalog includes work from an era when star independent watchmakers, such as Louis Cottier, counted brands as their clients. Lot 982 – Daniel Roth Ref. 2187 Tourbillon “Double Face” After helping establish Breguet as a Swiss watchmaker, Daniel Roth established his eponymous brand in 1988 with his inaugural model being the ref. C187/2187, a tourbillon wristwatch with two faces. The front indicates the time and showcases the tourbillon at six o’clock, while the reverse is home to the date and power reserve indicator. Despite the strikingly exotic look for the time – remember this was the late 1980s – the tourbillon actually employs the familiar Lemania tourbillon calibre, unsurprising given that Mr Roth helped with the construction of the calibre while he was at Breguet. While the bones are Lemania, the aesthetic is uniquely Daniel Roth. The grey dial has a pinstripe guilloche while the three-armed seconds hand indicates the time on a three-layer scale. Just last year, Louis Vuitton resurrected the Daniel Roth marque with a new generation of the iconic tourbillon powered by an all-new calibre deve...

Introducing – A new Rose Gold Version of the Longines Master Chronograph Moonphase Monochrome
Longines Master Chronograph Moonphase It’s Nov 7, 2025

Introducing – A new Rose Gold Version of the Longines Master Chronograph Moonphase

It’s easy to almost exclusively think about Longines’ Heritage or Spirit models, for them to be visually attractive, vintage-inspired models with a lot of arguments for a seasoned crowd. Recent watches, such as the Ultra-Chron Classic, the Spirit Pilot Flyback or the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, have somehow stolen the show. There’s (much) more […]

It’s Not Easy Being Green – Except for the Seiko Alpinist SJX Watches
Seiko Alpinist Seiko’s evergreen mountaineering Nov 7, 2025

It’s Not Easy Being Green – Except for the Seiko Alpinist

Seiko’s evergreen mountaineering companion, the Prospex Alpinist, enters its fourth decade with its fourth major update. The 2025 edition gains an a longer power reserve, a scratch-resistant Diashield case coating, and - most notably - the return of vintage styling cues from the first generation, including the italic “Alpinist” signature on the dial. The new generation (refs. SPB503, SPB505, SPB507) debuts in variants including the signature forest green, along with a limited edition of the outgoing generation exclusively for Singapore, Hong Kong, Macau, Malaysia, and Brunei in an icy white (ref. SPB532). Though it commands a slightly higher price than the outgoing model, the enhancements make it a more capable and durable field watch, keeping the value proposition firmly intact. Initial thoughts This year the iconic green-and-gilt Alpinist turns 30, though it seems to have aged gracefully, with the latest generation being the best since its original debut. Though the Prospex “X” emblem and “three days” script depart from the model’s earlier design, the return of the “Alpinist” script is a welcome touch. Personally, I’ve always favoured its bigger brother, the Landmaster, which has higher specs for a higher price. But for most aspiring mountaineers, the much more accessible and conventionally attractive Alpinist is a better option. Since early references of the Alpinist are incredibly difficult to find – at least by Seiko standards – the new ...

In-Depth: Balancing Mainspring Dimensions Inside the Barrel SJX Watches
Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Concept Nov 7, 2025

In-Depth: Balancing Mainspring Dimensions Inside the Barrel

In a past story, we explained how multiple mainspring barrels can be paired in parallel or in series, for either lengthening a movement’s power reserve or increasing the torque discharged into the going train. In this article we expand on this topic to analyse the inside of the barrel by exploring how mainspring size balancing influences the torque output and power reserve.   Enthusiasts tend to throw around the loosely-defined term “mainspring packing” - especially when criticising a movement’s unsatisfying power reserve. This term refers to how a watchmaker can get a higher power reserve by balancing a spring’s dimensions and the space it occupies inside a barrel. While this sounds simple, the reality is more complicated.  Skeletonised barrel showing the tight coiled mainspring inside the Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Concept. In order to set the record straight, it’s necessary to analyse the topic thoroughly. This requires getting a bit technical, but an interpretation is included for those less interested in the underlying maths. This theory-heavy deep-dive tries to unravel the concept of mainspring packing and explores why optimisation is not a very straightforward business. The core elements This section covers the basics of mainspring and barrel geometry and establishes their relation with power reserve and torque. In order to see how specific dimensions affect both torque and power reserve, we will resort to some known functions and a little geometric...

Tissot Forges Ahead with the PRX 38 mm in Damascus Steel SJX Watches
Tissot Forges Ahead Nov 6, 2025

Tissot Forges Ahead with the PRX 38 mm in Damascus Steel

In just four short years the Tissot PRX has become a runaway success, spawning variants in almost every imaginable size and colour, but the new PRX 38 mm in Damascus steel stands apart. The patterned case and dial give it a tactile, almost artisanal quality rarely seen at this price point, with randomised striations that make each watch unique. Priced at a reasonable premium compared to the standard model, the Damascus steel case and dial of the new PRX are the result of forging and folding multiple steel alloys, which are then etched with acid to reveal a distinctive texture. Initial thoughts The PRX has proven to be widely successful for Tissot, and is now available in countless sizes, colours, and materials. Many are forgettable, but a few stand out. The Damascus steel variant is among the latter. The new PRX in Damascus Steel is one of the best yet, especially in the nearly perfect 38 mm size that will fit well on just about every wrist, big or small. The patterned grey texture found on the case and dial is immediately appealing, and while a full Damascus steel bracelet would have been even better, the leather strap helps keep costs in check and avoids the trap of looking too busy. Like other PRX models, the Damascus steel edition features the Swatch Group’s signature Powermatic 80 movement, which offers a convenient 80 hour power reserve, which should last through the weekend for all but the most sedentary lifestyles. It’s not much to look at, but that’s alright...

The Yema Navygraf is the Latest Diver to get the Mother of Pearl Treatment Worn & Wound
Yema Nov 4, 2025

The Yema Navygraf is the Latest Diver to get the Mother of Pearl Treatment

There is something about mother-of-pearl that seems to be catching watchmakers’ eyes lately. While I highly doubt it has to do with the fact that “Mother of Pearl” is a phenomenal drag name, I can’t totally rule that out as a possibility. Instead, more likely, it has to do with the ease in which adding the iridescent substance onto an existing design gives it new personality without really reinventing the wheel. Case in point: Yema’s Navygraf Pearl. Undoubtedly, the Navygraf is a handsome watch. But, like a drag queen, sometimes it’s hard to describe something as both “handsome” and “pretty” simultaneously. At least, that was my first impression of this French-made watch. Using the classic dive watch model, like the Navygraf, and inlaying mother-of-pearl seemed, in a way, incongruous to the steely, masculine athleticism of the silhouette. But, upon examining the bezel and dial a little more closely, I’m more inclined to think this is less of a gimmick and more of a thematic appreciation for the beauty and sport that the ocean provides (unfortunately, I’m only speculating – the press release was more focused on the technical specs of this Navygraf). So, what are the specs? This is a thinner Navygraf variant, equipped with a micro-rotor caliber CMM.2, meaning that the 316L stainless steel case measuring 39mm, only clocks in at 9.75mm thickness. The CMM.2 caliber also promises around 70 hours of power reserve, making it suitable for any diving trips ...

Farer Introduces Two New Moonphase References Featuring Eisenkiesel Quartz and Eastern Arabic Numerals Worn & Wound
Farer Introduces Two New Moonphase Oct 31, 2025

Farer Introduces Two New Moonphase References Featuring Eisenkiesel Quartz and Eastern Arabic Numerals

Ah, the moon. Romantic, mysterious, and the subject of many Creative Writing 101 poems, our closest celestial body has also wormed its way onto many a watch face over the years. Moonphase watches evoke a sense of sophistication and elegance, and tend to decorate watchmakers’ dressier lines, despite their somewhat subversive practicality. Farer’s moonphase collection is no exception; first launched in 2023, it took one of watchmaking’s oldest complications and applied it to the British brand’s own design ethos. Here in 2025, we have two new references to pad out that lineup: The Stratton and Burbidge Eastern Arabic Editions.  Taking the same basic design of the rest of the line, the new Moonphase models are wrapped in a 38.5mm cushion case with curved sides that wear a “grain twist” texture. The case scallops in the 43.8mm between the lugs to make the strap sit flush, and a rounded crown with a solid bronze cap finishes the vintage-adjacent case look. Inside, both Moonphase models are powered by a Sellita SW288-1 M Elabore Grade movement, with blued screws and a Farer-embossed bridge. The Sellita movement allows for a 45-hour power reserve, and hour, minute, seconds, date, and of course, moonphase functions.  Where the models differ is in their case material and dial design. The Stratton Edition-named for Frederick Stratton, a WWI veteran, mathematician, and astronomer who would eventually serve as Director of the Solar Physics Observatory, among many other ...

The Most Expensive Watch Brands: From Mainstream To Niche Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 31, 2025

The Most Expensive Watch Brands: From Mainstream To Niche

The world of high-end watches is a bit mysterious, and that is largely by design. Flagship pieces are produced in limited quantities, and pricing generally falls into the "contact us for details" realm for many of the most expensive watch brands. New mechanical innovations make headlines and push the industry and its trends forward, but this comes at a cost, with the best in the game building a certain reputation by doing this consistently over the course of generations. The ultimate value that buyers and enthusiasts will perceive in these watches is created in time, and it goes without saying that this value is quite subjective in nature.  There are a multitude of details that become more apparent, and are even demanded, at the higher end of watchmaking, however. There are vast differences in materials, finishing techniques, and even mechanical aspects such as an uncommon escapement design or power reserve delivery that separate the very top brands from what you might find at your local jeweler. Understanding the world’s most expensive brands will mean having a grasp on these differences. This is the kind of knowledge that will also go a long way in appreciating watchmaking as the art form that it is.  As great art is more than some canvas over a wood frame, a mechanical watch is far more than some screws, springs, and gears. Within a watch, each of these components offer the watchmaker an opportunity for creative expression in the kinds of materials they chose to use...

The 2026 Winter Olympics are 100 Days Away, and Omega Has a New Speedmaster to Celebrate Worn & Wound
Omega Has Oct 29, 2025

The 2026 Winter Olympics are 100 Days Away, and Omega Has a New Speedmaster to Celebrate

It’s that time again. The air is getting crisper, the days are getting shorter, and, for better or for worse, the realization that winter will soon set in is becoming more and more real. If you’re like me, and dread fighting snowy streets and icey…everything, this is a less than exciting time. But if you’re Omega? Well, that’s a different story. They are in countdown mode to the 2026 Winter Olympics in Milano Cortina, and they’ve just released a new Speedmaster to mark 100 days from the start of the games.  The Speedmaster Milano Cortina 2026 is built on the 38mm Speedmaster platform, and comes in a stainless steel case that measures 14.75mm tall. The dial is evocative of the snowy mountains that will be the setting for the games for next year, with a varnished white surface and subtle blue accents that evoke the Milano Cortina 2026 logo. The blue ceramic bezel and blue CVD coated hour markers keep the theme coherent and appropriately wintery. Another nice detail is that the chronograph hand has a gradient finish, going from light blue at its base to dark blue at its tip. Also, when the date window shows the 26th of the month, it does so in the typeface of the Milano Cortina logo.  The Speedmaster Milano Cortina 2026 runs on the Caliber 3330, an automatic movement with over 50 hours of power reserve and COSC certification. This, of course, is not a traditionalist’s Speedy, but more akin to the “Reduced” models of an earlier era. The 38mm size is easy to...

Breguet Reimagines a Classic with the Classique 7235 SJX Watches
Breguet Reimagines Oct 23, 2025

Breguet Reimagines a Classic with the Classique 7235

One of the earliest wristwatches created by the modern-day Breguet company was the 3130, way back in 1983. Now for its 250th anniversary, Breguet has continued the lineage with the Classique 7235. Inspired by the historic No. 5 pocket watch, just like the earlier 3130, the 7235 reimagines a Breguet classic with the brand’s new design language that debuted with the first anniversary wristwatch earlier this year. Limited to 250 pieces, the 7235 is powered by a derivative of the same movement found in the 3130, but with one bestowed with several generations worth of technical and decorative upgrades. The calibre is also hand engraved with a 19th century streetscape of Paris that includes Abraham-Louis Breguet’s work on Quai de l’Horloge. The cal. 502.3.DRL in the 7235 Initial thoughts The 7235 is instantly familiar. A staple of Breguet’s catalogue over the years, the asymmetric dial with a power reserve, moon phase, and small seconds is quintessential Breguet in style. But the 7235 is not quite Breguet as it is now known, as while it retains the movement and dial design, it employs the new aesthetic of Breguet’s 250th anniversary line-up. While most will be accustomed to the “Breguet style” of coin-edged case with straight soldered lugs and silvered guilloche dial, the 7235 moves away from that to good effect – yet the 7235 is immediately recognisable as a Breguet. The new design marries the new with the old: the patterned case band is retained, but instead of...

First Look – The New Luminor GMT Ceramica 40mm PAM01460, the First-Ever 40mm Ceramic Panerai Monochrome
Panerai Oct 22, 2025

First Look – The New Luminor GMT Ceramica 40mm PAM01460, the First-Ever 40mm Ceramic Panerai

For most of its modern life, the Luminor has been a big-wrist proposition, the classic 44mm and 47mm references defined the line’s presence. This spring’s Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 reaffirmed Panerai’s commitment to high-tech casework at the larger end of the spectrum. At the same time, Panerai has been quietly proving that the […]

New: IWC Limited-Edition Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse Deployant
IWC Limited-Edition Portugieser Automatic 42 Oct 18, 2025

New: IWC Limited-Edition Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse

The Limited-Edition Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse is a commemorative timepiece released by IWC Schaffhausen to mark the upcoming Lunar New Year. Limited to 500 pieces, it features a 42.4mm stainless steel case, a burgundy dial with gold accents, and the IWC-manufactured 52011 caliber offering a seven-day power reserve. The rotor is shaped like a galloping horse, visible through the sapphire caseback. Pricing for this model is listed at approximately €14,800, though regional availability and final retail prices may vary.

The Tissot Classic Dream Now Has a Powermatic 80 Movement Worn & Wound
Tissot Classic Dream Now Has Oct 17, 2025

The Tissot Classic Dream Now Has a Powermatic 80 Movement

One of my worst traits-according to my husband, my therapist, and the middle school youth pastor-is that I am greedy. Unfortunately, I have to agree. It’s not that I want everything; it’s just that I want choices. Well, luckily for me, dear Reader, Tissot has delivered. Their latest release, the Tissot Classic Dream, powered by the Powermatic 80 movement, now comes in seven new references. For others, this may feel like overkill, but for me? It’s just right. Each of the new Classic Dream models has all the makings of a daily driver. These dress watches clock in at 40mm, but don’t wear large on the wrist. Part of that is thanks to the watch’s proportions: Tissot has given the simple, no-frills dial plenty of room to “breathe,” leaving only the thinnest sliver of stainless steel as the case. Add in a variety of dial colors and metal options-yellow gold PVD, rose gold PVD, blue sunray, black sunray, you name it-and there’s truly something for every style. And if that’s not enough, each watch comes with the option of a leather strap or a bracelet. It’s a Swiss buffet of options, if you ask me. The real star here is the Powermatic 80 movement, powering the Classic Dream series for the first time. As Tissot notes, this makes Swiss automatic watches even more accessible to a broader audience. The Powermatic 80 promises (you guessed it) up to 80 hours of power reserve and consistent performance for all-day, everyday wear, with an average daily precision...

Daniel Arsham’s Hublot Meca-10 is Fluid, Frosted Sapphire SJX Watches
Hublot Meca-10 Oct 9, 2025

Daniel Arsham’s Hublot Meca-10 is Fluid, Frosted Sapphire

Following last year’s Arsham Droplet pocket watch, Daniel Arsham has just unveiled his second collaboration with Hublot, the MP-17 MECA-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire. One of the leading artists in pop culture, Daniel Arsham was inspired by the fluidity of a water droplet, explaining the streamlined, pebble-like wristwatch with an intriguing asymmetrical dial framed by a frosted sapphire crystal bezel. Mr Arsham has collaborated with brands as diverse as Porsche and Pokemon, and here he applies his aesthetic to Hublot’s Big Bang Meca-10. While the aesthetic is unlike any other Hublot, the movement inside is familiar: one of Hublot’s most interesting movements, the Meca-10 calibre with a 10-day power reserve, which was just facelifted this year to fit smaller format cases. Initial thoughts The Arsham Splash starts with a good base: the cal. 1205 Meca-10 movement is appealing both in terms of aesthetics and function. The geometric styling of the skeletonised construction is inspired by Meccano, the children’s construction toy, while the power reserve is an impressive 240 hours. I like much of the movement, except for the Etachron regulator that  I would have hoped Hublot would have replaced in this second-generation Meca-10 movement but it’s still there. Still, the Meca-10 is a logical fit for the Arsham Splash both in terms of form and function. The form of the Arsham Splash is unorthodox. Though the case has some familiar Hublot elements like the flared fl...

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Calendar Goes Granular Two-Tone SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Master Control Calendar Sep 30, 2025

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Calendar Goes Granular Two-Tone

Jaeger-LeCoultre has just introduced the Master Control Calendar Limited Edition, the latest addition to a long line of triple calendar watches going back decades. Packaged in the 40 mm Master Control case we’ve become familiar with, this new 500-piece stainless steel limited edition is all about the dial, which features a richly textured silver and grey livery on a “sector” layout. Despite the classical aesthetic, the Master Control Date is thoroughly modern on the inside with the cal. 866 featuring a silicon escapement that supports a 70-hour power reserve. Initial thoughts The triple calendar moon phase has long been a staple of the Jaeger-LeCoultre line-up; Pablo Picasso famously wore one. Add to this lineage the brand’s unique jumping date pointer, which jumps in a wide arc from the 15th to the 16th of the month to avoid confounding the moon phase display, and the result is a watch that manages to be both charming and technically distinctive. It’s also easily wearable in a 40 mm case, that, while larger than the vintage originals, gives the indicators on the dial plenty of space to breathe. Of course, the movement is the cal. 866, effectively a cal. 899 with a triple calendar module, which helps keeps the overall package quite sleek at 10.95 mm – on par with many simple time-and-date watches in this category. Upgraded a few years ago with a silicon escapement, the movement now runs for 70 hours when fully wound, adding convenience to wearability. Naturall...

Elka Launches New Watches in a Vintage Inspired 36mm Case Size Worn & Wound
Sep 26, 2025

Elka Launches New Watches in a Vintage Inspired 36mm Case Size

Labeling a watch as “vintage-inspired” can open it up to extra scrutiny. How historically accurate are the vintage features? How well-executed is the styling? And mostly importantly, does it make enough practical sense to release today? With their re-launch in 2022, Swiss brand Elka Watch Co. released the original Série 1 line, and the X- and D-Series lead the charge as historically-inspired sport and dress-style watches. Now, in 2025, Elka is bringing back the D series, and introducing a field watch variant, the N Series, in a smaller 36mm size, further upping their vintage styling accuracy.  The new 36 N and D references first and foremost share the titular 36mm case diameter, 10.50mm thickness, and 41.10mm lug-to-lug measurements. Keeping both references ticking is a La Joux Perret G101 automatic movement with a 68-hour power reserve, promising modern functionality under the vintage dress, and both feature a screw-down exhibition case back to showcase that movement and provide 50 meters of water resistance. A scratch-resistant box-type sapphire crystal, coated with anti-reflective treatment, tops off the similarities between the two models. The N Series bursts into the lineup as Elka’s first field watch, and the beige, black, and yellow styling matches that application. Two models are available for the 36 N line: a beige dial model with black numerals and indexes and yellow-orange details; and a black dial version with yellow numerals and hands and white indexes...