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Results for Tourbillon

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Flying Tourbillon

Alfred Helwig's 1920 tourbillon variant with no upper bridge; the entire cage is visible.

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H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition: A Ceramic Case Changes Everything

Moser's wildest Streamliner yet pairs a flying tourbillon skeleton with a ceramic case, all under the Alpine F1 banner

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39: The Octagon Gets Its Most Serious Movement Yet

Four new calibers in 12 months. The latest drops a flying tourbillon and a micro-rotor into a 39mm Laureato case, and it looks the part.

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Panerai Luminor Tourbillon GMT Titanio PAM01784: The Softer Side of a Big Complication

A tourbillon, a GMT, and a titanium case walk into a Luminor. The result is more restrained than you'd expect.

Unique F.P. Journe Resonance Raises US$2.98 Million for Charity SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Resonance Raises US$2.98 Million Nov 28, 2024

Unique F.P. Journe Resonance Raises US$2.98 Million for Charity

For its third outing supporting the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, F.P. Journe created a unique Chronomètre à Résonance that sold for S$4.00 million – equivalent to US$2.98 million – during the charity’s annual gala dinner in Singapore. As a friend of the Monegasque ruler, François-Paul Journe has long supported his namesake charity. Now once of the most valuable recent F.P. Journe watches ever sold, the Resonance follows the LineSport Rattrapante of 2018 and the Chronometre Optimum of 2022, which have cumulatively raised several million for the charity that supports environmental causes around the world. Echoing the livery of the Optimum of 2022, the unique Resonance has a platinum case with a burgundy dial and ruthenium sub-dials. Notably, two forms of Chinese characters: modern simplified Chinese characters on the right sub-dial, while the left register has markings in oracle bone script, the oldest form of written Chinese. The movement is engraved on the barrel bridge: “S.A.S. Albert II Singapore 2024” More than double the result of the Optimum in 2022, the big number for the Resonance is no surprise given the recent record-setting sale of the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon prototype. This arguably demonstrates that F.P. Journe has gone beyond a watchmaker or even watches, but a brand. This desirability of the F.P. Journe brand is reflected in not just the value, but how easily and quickly it was achieved at the auction during the dinner event. Thoma...

Spoiler Alert: The A.Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone Is Something Special! WatchAdvice
A. Lange & Sohne Nov 26, 2024

Spoiler Alert: The A.Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone Is Something Special!

As A. Lange & Söhne celebrate the 30th anniversary of the iconic Lange 1, we thought we’d join the party, and what better way to help celebrate than to take the Lange 1 Time Zone out and about? What We Love The asymmetrical dial Ease of legibility of 2 time zones The impeccable finishing all over the watch What We Don’t The date window with no 0 in front of 1 through 9 It is probably not an everyday watch for many people Like most world time watches, it doesn’t take into account daylight savings automatically Overall Score: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 2024 has been a celebratory year for A. Lange & Söhne. The Saxony brand has celebrated two birthdays this year, the first being the 25th Anniversary of the Datograph, which was showcased at Watches & Wonders this year with the stunning Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen and the Datograph Up/Down, but the second, and maybe the most important was the 30th Anniversary of the Lange 1, the first modern watch the brand created after being brought back to life. RELATED READING: Happy 30th Birthday to A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1! So, it is safe to say that the Lange 1 is a special piece when it comes to A. Lange & Söhne, and when we interviewed A. Lange & Söhne’s Asia Pacific Managing Director, Nicolas Gong, a couple of months ago, he had this to say about the Lange 1, and I think he summed it up perfectly: “It’s the first watch that we launched...

Vacheron Constantin Presents Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Presents Japanese Deities Nov 19, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Presents Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel

The year’s Vacheron Constantin (VC) Les Cabinotiers collection of unique timepieces explore the mythology of time across different cultures. A trio of unique pieces with miniature enamel dials, Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Japanese Culture are time-only watches with exquisite dial art, each depicting a Japanese deity. The functional simplicity of the three watches contrast with their Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin counterparts equipped with tourbillon regulators. While the tourbillon-equipped models take inspiration from Greek fables and wider East Asian culture, the present pieces are specifically focused on Japanese themes. Each of the three watches is equipped with a one-of-a-kind dial crafted with enamelling and engraving by VC’s in-house artisans. Initial thoughts VC’s endeavour bringing forth elements of time-related mythology from different cultural perspectives is laudable – and also logical given their application on a wristwatch. Moreover, the concept is executed well both in terms of style and technique in the 2024 Les Cabinotiers line-up. Les Cabinotiers (and also Metiers d’Art) demonstrate VC’s mastery of artisanal decoration. The dials in the Japanese Culture trio are achieved with several techniques in tandem, namely engraving and enamelling, but done in-house. The artful combination of technique results in a very-appealing series of unique creations. In fact, these watches are decorated with techniques similar to the incredible Les Cabinotier...

Angelus Instrument de Vitesse Review Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Nov 18, 2024

Angelus Instrument de Vitesse Review

Angelus is a watchmaker that many younger enthusiasts likely regard as a newcomer to the scene but actually brings to the table a rich heritage going all the way back to 1891 — as a maker of watches as well as some of the industry’s most legendary movements. Angelus calibers were used, for example, in the earliest Panerai Radiomir watches from the 1940s. Based in Le Locle, Switzerland, the firm was one of the first watchmakers to adopt the two-pusher chronograph design that had first been explored by Breitling. Its ChronoDato model, launched in 1942, and its successor in 1948, the ChronoDatoLuxe, remain among the most legendary grails for vintage chronograph collectors.  When Angelus resurfaced in 2015 — now owned by the prolific Swiss movement-maker La Joux-Perret, which is part of Japan’s Citizen Watch Group — the timepieces it chose to re-establish itself in the 21st-Century marketplace proved perplexing to many longtime collectors and armchair brand historians. Watches like the somewhat bizarre-looking, sci-fi-influenced U10 Tourbillon and the huge, skeletonized U50 Diver Tourbillon seemed to indicate that the revived Angelus brand was jettisoning much of its vintage appeal to explore more avant-garde frontiers. Starting in 2022, however, with the much-praised release of the ChronoDate models, heavily inspired by the 1942 ChronoDato, Angelus has signaled a renewed interest in mining its mid-century archives, particularly in its chronograph sweet spot.  The ...

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Tourbillons, Marquetry and Multi-Axis SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Tourbillons Marquetry Nov 12, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Tourbillons, Marquetry and Multi-Axis

Continuing its annual tradition, Vacheron Constantin (VC) reveals the year’s Les Cabinotiers collection of one-of-a-kind watches that are both technically complex and decorated by skilled artisans. The line-up includes two distinct tourbillon offerings, Le Temps Divin Ode to the Four Guardians featuring marquetry dials inspired by mythical animals of East Asia, and Le Temps Divin Armillary Tourbillon Greek Mythology, a pair of double-axis tourbillons featuring hand-engraved decor. “Divine time” Known for its pursuit of traditional artisanal techniques like enamelling, wood marquetry, and engraving, the Geneva watchmaker integrates such decorative techniques into its Metiers d’Art and Les Cabinotiers timepieces, which are as much works of art as they are timekeepers. This year’s collection is titled Le Temps Divin, or “Divine Time”. Though united by a tourbillon regulator, the new models are each very different, both in the thematic inspirations as well as the decorative and technical execution.  Le Temps Divin refers to the mythological concepts of time from different cultural perspectives. The quartet of “Ode to the Four Guardians” tourbillons is inspired by four mythological creatures of East Asian culture, each representing one season. The Armillary Tourbillon pair, on the other hand, focuses on the ancient Greek god of time, the titan Chronos. The fabled creatures of the East Ode to the Four Guardians draws inspiration from the four seasons and the...

Hands On: Urban Jürgensen and Derek Pratt Oval Pocket Watch SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Nov 6, 2024

Hands On: Urban Jürgensen and Derek Pratt Oval Pocket Watch

A storied example of artisanal independent watchmaking, The Oval was the masterpiece by Derek Pratt (1938-2009), perhaps the greatest unknown watchmaker. Pratt began work on the Oval in 1982 as his magnum opus, the ultimate realisation of his aesthetic and technical vision. While his work for Urban Jürgensen is perhaps his best known, Pratt was an independent watchmaker with a diverse repertoire, including working with George Daniels on the co-axial escapement. Amongst his creations was a replica of John Harrison’s H4 marine chronometer. These projects, as well as the fact that the Oval was mostly hand made, meant the pocket watch took some two decades to complete. Although it’s a sizeable watch, the Oval is finely detailed, reflecting the high level of Pratt’s craft and the years he invested in creating the watch from scratch. Beyond its artisanal execution, the Oval also stands out for its technical achievement. Besides a detent escapement, the Oval also contains a horological first – a constant force mechanism integrated within the tourbillon – along with a thermometer, power reserve display, and moon phase on the dial. We took an in-depth look at the Oval in 2021, thanks to its current owner, Dr Helmut Crott. But now as the Oval heads to the auction block at Phillips, it’s worth one last look before it disappears into a collection. A two-decade odyssey A contemporary and friend of George Daniels (1926-2011), Pratt was one of the most talented horologists o...

First Look - The All-Blue Titanium Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso Edition Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Nov 5, 2024

First Look - The All-Blue Titanium Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso Edition

Ten years ago, Bulgari’s launch of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon spearheaded the Italian brand’s march across the watchmaking landscape, razing records in the battle for ultra-thin movements/watches. Currently the holder of nine world records, the Octo Finissimo’s incredible mechanical feats are matched by the formidable geometry of its case, securing it a seat in the […]

A Unique, Fully-Engraved Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A for Charity SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref 5711/1500A Nov 4, 2024

A Unique, Fully-Engraved Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A for Charity

Continuing its annual tradition, Patek Philippe has just revealed its unique creation to benefit Children Action, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A. Slated to be sold at auction with all proceeds going to the Geneva charity, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A is entirely stainless steel and entirely engraved. The engraved Nautilus is the latest one-off wristwatch Patek Philippe has created for the charity founded by Swiss financier Bernard Sabrier that helps disadvantaged children. Past watches include the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium and last year’s ref. 5270T in titanium with a green dial that sold for almost CHF10 million. The case, bezel, bracelet, and case back are hand engraved with a “Maori-inspired” motif that’s matched with a dark grey dial. While aftermarket engraving has been applied to various Nautilus models in the past, this is the first factory-original specimen decorated in this manner. Patek Philippe’s catalogue does include several complicated models decorated with engraving, most famously the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002, but they all complicated and in precious metal. This is the first and only Nautilus (or sports watch of any sort) with an engraved case, and also the only steel model with engraving. The watch is accompanied by a pair of matching cufflinks in engraved steel, which are equally unique as Patek Philippe ordinarily only sells gold cufflinks. The matching cufflinks ref. 205.9057A-010 The Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A will be...

A Breguet Classique Pair in Black Grand Feu Enamel SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Pair Oct 28, 2024

A Breguet Classique Pair in Black Grand Feu Enamel

Employing traditional Breguet style but with a twist, the Breguet Classique 5177 and Classique 7787 are variants of existing models but gain a high-contrast makeover with a black grand feu enamel dial and platinum case – a uncommon and striking combination for a largely conservative brand. Initial thoughts Though white enamel is the default, Breguet has been adding colours to its enamel offerings in recent years, including blue enamel for the Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367. In fact, the Classique 5177 was already available with a blue enamel dial for several years. However, the 5177 and 7787 are amongst the most striking thanks to their stark palette. While neither are actually new models, both are good looking watches that exemplify the Breguet style while being a little different. All the stylistic elements are traditional Breguet, but the monochromatic colours give the duo a stark, modern feel. The 5177 is almost a perfect dress watch, but it has a date at three that gets in the way. That said, the date is less prominent on the black dial than it is on the white version. More appealing (and also more expensive), the 7787 brings to mind vintage Breguet pocket watches with its oversized power reserve display, while the moon phase adds texture and colour to the dial. Black and silver Both the 5177 and 7787 share the same livery of a black enamel dial and platinum case. Platinum is relatively uncommon in the Breguet catalogue, and here it’s used for both the case and crown....

A. Lange & Söhne Celebrates the 30th Anniversary of their Relaunch with Two Lange 1s (LIVE PICS) Worn & Wound
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 24, 2024

A. Lange & Söhne Celebrates the 30th Anniversary of their Relaunch with Two Lange 1s (LIVE PICS)

A 30th anniversary is no small thing for a brand. For some perspective, only 25% of new companies even survive for 15 years. As such, it’s rightly a cause for celebration. This year, A. Lange & Söhne is celebrating two anniversaries, the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, and the 30th anniversary of the brand being relaunched. For the Datograph, we saw four exceptional and highly exclusive pieces. At Watches & Wonders, they launched the elegant Datograph Up/Down Limited Edition in white gold with a blue dial, as well as the über Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen.” That duo was followed up by the recently announced Datograph Handwerkskunst and Datograph Up/Down “Hampton Court Edition.” The Handwerkskunst is an über watch of a different nature than the “Lumen,” demonstrating the brand’s dedication to handcraft and the artistry of watchmaking. Anthony de Haas, Director of Development, described the process of creating the dial, which consists of an “outer ring, the main carriage dial, and then the sub-dials, all four out of solid yellow gold. We take a milling machine and take away all the material, except for the numerals and the letters and the text, so they are in relief.” The process then goes to an engraver, who meticulously applies “tremblage,” creating the uniform stippled texture across all surfaces. This task is made even more difficult as the engraver must navigate all of the engraved details, such as the arching logo. To get...

Introducing - 4 New Limited Editions to Celebrate the 30th-Anniversary of the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Monochrome
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 24, 2024

Introducing - 4 New Limited Editions to Celebrate the 30th-Anniversary of the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1

Exactly 30 years ago, on 24 October 1994, at the Dresden Royal Palace, Günter Blümlein, Walter Lange and Hartmut Knothe unveiled the inaugural collection of the rejuvenated A. Lange & Söhne brand, consisting of the Saxonia, the Arkade, the Tourbillon “Pour le Mérite” and, of course, the Lange 1. A watch that has been instrumental […]

Hands-On With A Lightweight: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 Girard-Perregaux Oct 12, 2024

Hands-On With A Lightweight: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49

Girard-Perregaux has a history spanning over two centuries, and longevity justifies calling the brand a heavyweight watchmaker. “GP” might be in the shadow of “AP” and “VC,” but it more than deserves a light shining on it. There’s a long history of remarkable and unique complications, like the tourbillon with three gold bridges, and then […] Visit Hands-On With A Lightweight: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 to read the full article.

Introducing - The New Delma Oceanmaster Oliver Heer Ocean Racing, with Full-Lume Dial Monochrome
Casio n like Oct 10, 2024

Introducing - The New Delma Oceanmaster Oliver Heer Ocean Racing, with Full-Lume Dial

This year, Swiss watchmaking brand Delma celebrates 100 years since the company which led to its creation was founded in Lengnau with a few notable exemplars released to mark the occasion, like the Delma 1924 Tourbillon, made in collaboration with the renowned La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker Olivier Mory, or the Delma Heritage Chronograph 100 years. Also, […]

H. Moser & Cie.’s First-Ever Retrograde Seconds SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie.’s First-Ever Retrograde Oct 7, 2024

H. Moser & Cie.’s First-Ever Retrograde Seconds

The newly-launched Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is the first wristwatch with the complication from H. Moser & Cie. The retrograde seconds complication was developed by Geneva movement specialist Agenhor, in which Moser acquired a stake not too long ago. The Retrograde Seconds features the sporty Pioneer case and a midnight blue fumé dial with a large, 30-second retrograde counter at six o’clock. Every 30 seconds, the retrograde hand jumps back to the starting point with the help of the double-snail cam, which is visible below an open-worked bridge for the seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Pioneer line is home to many of Moser’s unusual complications, such as the Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton and Perpetual Calendar. The Pioneer case is sporty with a 120 m water-resistance rating and vent-like flanks, but not a conventional sports watch like the Streamliner, its more popular sibling with an integrated bracelet. The Retrograde Seconds takes the sportiness a step further with the retrograde counter that resembles an instrument display. The grey-coated scale and bridge of the retrograde seconds fits the overall aesthetic, while also adding contrast to the all-blue dial. Visuals aside, the Retrograde Seconds is a relatively simple yet engaging complication that keeps the watch accessible. Priced at CHF19,900, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is one of the most affordable watches in the Moser catalogue. It delivers much that Moser is known for – a minimalist, smoked dial a...

Hands On: Hautlence Retrovision ’47 SJX Watches
Hautlence Retrovision ’47 Best known Oct 3, 2024

Hands On: Hautlence Retrovision ’47

Best known for its TV-shaped watch, Hautlence marks its 20th anniversary this year with something radically different, but also entirely apt: the Retrovision ’47. Cleverly inspired by a 1940s radio, the watch has a titanium case painted in a bright green that contains a self-winding movement with a flying tourbillon. Though it’s powered by an existing movement (borrowed from Moser), the Retrovision ’47 is the brand’s first all-new model in a long time. Whether it marks a new direction for the brand is unknown, but it definitely makes a statement. Initial thoughts The Retrovision ’47 is a weird and interesting watch that is a surprisingly creative take on the vintage-inspired timepiece. Even though it is outlandish, the Retrovision ’47 is coherent. The watch achieves what it sets out to do: instantly evokes a vintage radio. It’s paradoxical in several ways: not exceptionally large, but it stands out because of its shape and colour. And at a distance, the Retrovision ’47 resembles a plastic toy, but up close the fit and finish make it clear that this is a high-end watch. I doubt I would wear one, but Hautlence should be commended for doing something bold and different. Beyond the watch itself, however, Hautlence still needs work. Weird and wonderful as it is, the Retrovision ’47 doesn’t explain where Hautlence is going, or even what the brand is really all about now. Even though the watch has a quirky, intrinsic appeal, the brand behind it still needs cla...

First Look - The New H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Retrograde Oct 2, 2024

First Look - The New H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds

While the Streamliner has positioned itself as H. Moser’s flagship luxury sports watch, the Pioneer has been fighting its corner since 2015 as the brand’s sportiest, all-terrain, entry-level model. Starting with a Centre Seconds model, the collection escalated in complexity to include a Tourbillon, a Perpetual Calendar and even a skeletonised Cylindrical Tourbillon model. Thanks […]

Jaeger-LeCoultre Prioritizes Classic Design with Recent Updates to the Reverso Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Prioritizes Classic Design Oct 1, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Prioritizes Classic Design with Recent Updates to the Reverso

There is something incredibly satisfying about good design. Sure, this may seem like a basic statement; but, in the world we live in today, maybe it isn’t. So much of the watch market now relies on a steady IV drip of collaborations, bright colors, and sometimes novelty capabilities that classic design can feel like a sorbet course after a particularly heavy meal. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute line-up is that for me. Longtime readers may know that I’m quite fond of the classic Cartier Tank, and it wouldn’t be a stretch of the imagination to say the Reverso is cut from the same cloth. First created in the 1930’s as a watch that could withstand being beaten up during polo matches (can you think of a more 1% sentence?), the Reverso has now become a cult classic of sorts for, of course, its beauty – but also the fun tactility of the reversible case. While there have been many iterations of the Reverso collection, the latest in their Tribute line really show the sophistication and engineering know-how from the brand. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute collection features three new references to ogle: the Reverso Tribute Monoface, Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon (in steel), and the Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds (in pink gold). With three personalities to introduce you to, I’ll go through each separately. The first thing to notice about the Reverso Tribute Monoface is its size. Designed to be more in-line with the original Reverso from 1931, coming...

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Perpetual Sep 26, 2024

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition

Southeast Asian retailer Sincere Fine Watches is marking its 70th anniversary with a series of limited editions, with the latest being the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, equipped with a hand-wind, seven-day movement. The Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition features a case and movement bridges of Damascus steel, a pattern-welded alloy composed of two types of steel that create a distinctive grained surface. Limited to 28 pieces, it follows Sincere’s prior anniversary editions, including the Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon and H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD. An exotic alloy The Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition combines the trademark Franck Muller tonneau-shaped case, an unusual case alloy, and one of the brand’s more interesting movements, a skeleton calibre with a seven-day power reserve. The Vanguard case is an evolution of the classic Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex, with modern lines echoed in the movement, which has a geometric and linear bridge layout. The case, crown, buckle, and movement bridges of the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition are made of an unusual steel alloy known as Damascus steel, or wootz steel. The material gets its name from the ancient high-quality steel used for bladed weapons over a thousand years ago. The modern-day Damascus steel employed here is created with powder metallurgy, namely mixing various steel powders before ...

Shining a Light on the A. Lange & Söhne Lumen Collection Teddy Baldassarre
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 18, 2024

Shining a Light on the A. Lange & Söhne Lumen Collection

When A. Lange & Söhne makes a contribution to watchmaking, whether in the areas of technology, design, materials, or any combination of these or other elements, it tends to go above and beyond the call - to challenge itself to reach a little higher, to put its own distinctly Saxon spin on things. This philosophy is evident particularly in the brand’s approach to complications: not just a moon-phase, but a moon-phase that’s accurate for more than a century. Not just a tourbillon, but the first tourbillon with a stop-seconds mechanism. Not just a split-seconds chronograph, but the first “triple split” chronograph to make comparative time measurements of not just seconds and minutes but multiple hours.  It was in that overachieving spirit, no doubt, that Lange developed its own signature illumination system for watch dials, rolling it out in 2010 on the second generation of the groundbreaking Zeitwerk model that it had introduced the year prior. The system, called “Lumen” and patented in 2013, illuminates not only dial elements like hands and indexes in the dark but also components normally hidden beneath the dial’s surface, like date disks and decorated plates, wheels and bridges. Lange’s technical solution to the challenge of charging all of the elements uniformly - luminous-treated surface details like hands, hour markers and subdials, as well as non-treated parts beneath the surface - was a dial made of sapphire and coated with a semi-transparent ...

Biver Debuts a Most Sophisticated Micro-Rotor Calibre SJX Watches
Sep 6, 2024

Biver Debuts a Most Sophisticated Micro-Rotor Calibre

Founded by the namesake father and son duo, Biver has just debuted its second model, the Biver Automatique. Though a simple a time-only watch with central seconds, in contrast to the preceding Carillon Tourbillon, the Automatique is equipped with an elaborately executed movement that’s arguably the most impressive recent automatic. Besides decorative touches like guilloche on the bridges, the JCB-003 also features details like a grande sonnerie-style winding click. The calibre is paired with a comparably elaborately constructed dial with solid gold appliqués that’s available in a variety of materials, including mineral stone like Pietersite. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts The Automatique is clearly meant to showcase the brand’s ability to create a highly finished and refined time-only watch that can compete with more established producers, both in terms of the movement as well as habillage (namely the dial and case). The highlight of the Automatique is the JCB-003 movement. Developed in partnership with movement specialist Dubois Depraz, the JCB-003 is quite possibly the most refined micro rotor movement on the market today. Though it is functionally simple, the movement boasts decorative and technical details along with a high level of finishing. The over-engineered caliber is meant to serve as a base for future complications, which makes sense considering the high cost involved in constructing such a movement. Amongst the calibre’s notable details is the grande so...

TAG Heuer Gets Extreme with the Latest Carreras Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Gets Extreme Sep 5, 2024

TAG Heuer Gets Extreme with the Latest Carreras

If you’d told me eighteen months ago that the TAG Heuer Carrera would, in very short order, find itself once again at the center of enthusiast interest, there’s a very good chance I’d have laughed you out of the room. And yet, here we sit, 17 months on from the release of the Carrera ‘Glassbox’ and there can be no doubt - thanks in part to an expanded lineup of compelling variants of the 39mm chronograph, as well as exciting interpretations like the widely discussed and sought after Seafarer LE for HODINKEE - that TAG Heuer’s signature chronograph is one of the hottest watches on the market. But the Glassbox is only one side of the Carrera story. Now, TAG Heuer is leaning into the other side with the unveiling of a new technical chronograph. Where the Carrera ‘Glassbox’ looks to the history of the Carrera, the new Carrera Extreme Sport - introduced as a collection of six watches spread across two models: the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport and the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport - present a vision of the future and a bold one at that. The two new models share a lot in common, most notably a shared aesthetic and case design. Both the Chronograph Extreme Sport and the Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport measure 44mm across, 15.1mm thick, and 49.7mm lug-to-lug. Certainly not small, but also decidedly wearable for a chronograph meant to wear large. The lug-to-lug measure, in particular, is deceptively compact and shou...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Sep 5, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport

After having expanded the line-up of its bestselling, vintage-inspired Carrera “Glassbox”, TAG Heuer now turns to something modern, the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport. Though it shares the Carrera moniker and TH20 movement, the new Extreme Sport chronograph is nothing like is retro counterpart. Available in titanium or 18k rose gold, the Carrera Extreme Sport is a big, bold chronograph with a skeletonised dial and integrated rubber strap. And at the top of the new collection is the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport, which is the most modern take on TAG Heuer’s affordable double complication of chronograph plus flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer’s offerings are now mostly either vintage-inspired and hyper-modern. The Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport definitely falls into the latter category. The open-worked dial is surprisingly intricate, with the X-shaped latticework finished with a combination of colour-treated frosted recesses and straight graining. With a skeletonised dial and chunky case, the Chronograph Extreme Sport feels similar to other watches in this segment, though the case is distinctive as the Carrera design. For anyone who feels TAG Heuer’s vintage-inspired watches are too traditional, this has the same in-house movement but presented in contemporary package. Like most watches of this style, the Chronograph Extreme Sport has an integrated rubber strap for a seamless clean profile, but never really fits as well as a convent...

A Unique A. Lange & Söhne Datograph with Bracelet for Charity SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Aug 31, 2024

A Unique A. Lange & Söhne Datograph with Bracelet for Charity

A. Lange & Söhne’s is marking the 25th anniversary of its iconic chronograph with a series of limited editions, including the fresh-off-the-press Datograph Handwerkskunst. And now the brand has just announced a one-of-a-kind model that will be sold to benefit charity, the Datograph Up/Down “Hampton Court Edition”. In white gold with a dial in grey and black – plus a matching white gold bracelet – the one-off Datograph continues the tradition of periodic unique pieces to benefit The Prince’s Trust, a United Kingdom charity that aids at-risk youth. The last Hampton Court Edition was an 1815 Chronograph in white gold with a black dial. Initial thoughts In some ways this is similar to the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” in being a compilation of Lange’s greatest hits. An iconic model with a unique and appealing dial, along with a weighty solid gold bracelet, make this watch easily appealing. The grey, black, and red dial make this the sportiest Datograph ever, a look that is further accentuated with the gold bracelet. The aesthetic also suits the classic car theme of the watch. Like to sell for high-six, or even low-seven, figures, the Hampton Court Edition will easily become one of the most expensive Lange wristwatches ever sold. Concluding the anniversary The Hampton Court Edition is the final Datograph launched for the model’s 25th anniversary and is in some senses a variant of the Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary, which shares the sa...

Frederique Constant And Alpina Introduce A Variety Of Models During Geneva Watch Days Fratello
Frederique Constant Aug 30, 2024

Frederique Constant And Alpina Introduce A Variety Of Models During Geneva Watch Days

Both Frederique Constant and Alpina grace us with multiple releases during Geneva Watch Days 2024. Alpina adds a skeletonized version of its Alpiner Extreme to the lineup and surprises us with classic silhouettes joining the Heritage collection. Frederique Constant focuses on the Classics line with a tourbillon and a moonphase model, both with spectacular dials. […] Visit Frederique Constant And Alpina Introduce A Variety Of Models During Geneva Watch Days to read the full article.

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Datograph Handwerkskunst SJX Watches
Casio n Aug 30, 2024

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Datograph Handwerkskunst

For the milestone anniversary of its famed chronograph, A. Lange & Söhne hasn’t held back on commemorative editions. Starting with the Datograph Up/Down in blue and then the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”, the German brand now concludes the anniversary with the third and final celebratory edition, the Datograph Handwerkskunst.  A finely executed watch that will instinctively appeal to Lange fans, the yellow gold Datograph Handwerkskunst is unsurprising given the occasion. And like past Handwerkskunst editions – this is the eighth watch in the Handwerkskunst series – it is relatively inaccessible: the watch is limited to just 25 pieces and substantially pricier than the regular production Datograph. The L951.8 in the Datograph Handwerkskunst Initial thoughts The original Datograph set the benchmark for a high-end, classical chronograph movement when it was launched in 1999. Exceptional both aesthetically and technically, then and now, the Datograph remains equally impressive 25 years later. The Datograph Handwerkskunst has all the familiar traits that defined the model for the past 25 years. On top of that, it has an artisanally decorated dial finished with tremblage. And more significantly, the movement gets a substantial extra dose of black polishing on all the chronograph levers, enhancing an already impressive chronograph calibre. Notably, the Datograph Handwerkskunst returns to the Datograph design of 1999. The tremblage dial has the neo-c...