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Canadian Independent Bradley Taylor Debuts the Lutria SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Bradley Taylor eventually returned Jun 14, 2022

Canadian Independent Bradley Taylor Debuts the Lutria

Having learnt the trade in Switzerland before stints at brands like Patek Philippe, Bradley Taylor eventually returned home to Canada and began a new career in independent watchmaking. His inaugural venture was a partnership, but last year he went solo under his own name and debuted the Paragon. A small-run limited edition that’s already sold out, the Paragon was classically styled and Vaucher-powered, which also describe the Mr Taylor’s next watch, the Lutria. Although executed in a similar manner to its predecessor, the Lutria opts for fancier dials in striking colours – including  “salmon” and a blueish-green inspired by the ocean view from Vancouver – that are decorated with traditional guilloche. Initial thoughts A formula that works especially well in independent watchmaking is simplicity done with finesse, which is what Mr Taylor’s work is all about. Both the Paragon and Lutria rely on top-shelf suppliers for the dial and movement, while also incorporating design characteristics unique to his brand, namely the typography that was developed by a fellow Canadian. So if you liked the Paragon, you’ll probably feel the same about the Lutria. The two share the same case and movement, but are quite different. The Lutria is paradoxically simpler yet more elaborate: it reduces the hour markers and does away with the seconds hand but adds colour and engine turning into the mix. The reduction in dial furniture complements the dial decoration, which is entire...

Cheap and cheerful: A collection overview of Casio Edifice Time+Tide
Casio Edifice Edifice Jun 13, 2022

Cheap and cheerful: A collection overview of Casio Edifice

Edifice is a sub brand of Casio that focuses on elevating the look of their parent brand, offering a range of watches that suit the everyday professional. Whether you’re after a simple and uncluttered watch, one with a motorsport connection or something just a little bit funky – Edifice does their best to cover all … ContinuedThe post Cheap and cheerful: A collection overview of Casio Edifice appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The best women’s watches of 2022 so far… Time+Tide
Jun 13, 2022

The best women’s watches of 2022 so far…

There was a time when a women’s watch could be spotted from a mile away. Unnecessary diamonds, pretentious numerals, overpriced quartz movements and generally lazy design are all hallmarks of the stereotypical “ladies” watch. However, recent years are showing a long-awaited era of exploration from brands who have finally decided to respect feminine diversity. The … ContinuedThe post The best women’s watches of 2022 so far… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Bulgari Octo Roma Naturalia x Wang Yan Cheng surges with organised chaos Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Roma Naturalia x Jun 13, 2022

The Bulgari Octo Roma Naturalia x Wang Yan Cheng surges with organised chaos

Bulgari have spent the last decade focusing on the Octo Finissimo as the flagship for their haute-horology endeavours, however there’s a growing movement from the Octo Roma range to offer more variety in the world of high-end art watches. The Bulgari Octo Roma Naturalia x Wang Yan Cheng is one of their boldest Roma designs … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari Octo Roma Naturalia x Wang Yan Cheng surges with organised chaos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTERVIEW: Takuma Kawauchiya unpacks the wonders of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon Jun 12, 2022

INTERVIEW: Takuma Kawauchiya unpacks the wonders of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon

With hair neatly parted and pocket square cheekily stuffed into his breast pocket, Takuma Kawauchiya doesn’t look like a former guitarist in a rock band that once toured around the world. But music’s loss has been the watch world’s gain in a very big way. The Grand Seiko R&D; engineer and watchmaker is responsible for the T0 Constant … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: Takuma Kawauchiya unpacks the wonders of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: the new Longines Spirit Zulu Time Deployant
Longines Spirit Zulu Time DEPLOYANT Jun 11, 2022

Review: the new Longines Spirit Zulu Time

The GMT function is likely the most useful complication on mechanical timepieces, right after the date. While some may say the perpetual calendar is useful too, the effort to keep it running all the time or adjusting the date everytime to keep it updated is too much of a hassle. Chronographs on the other hand are not useful either for day to day tasks. The GMT however, is has many modern corporate slave applications, especially for those who travel or work with teams in different timezones. It is also the best multi timezone configuration that does not throw errors like the world timer, which becomes erroneous under daylight saving cycles and are also particularly hard to read.

Auction Watch: Cartier “Model A” Mystery Clock For a Good Cause SJX Watches
Cartier Model A” Mystery Clock Jun 11, 2022

Auction Watch: Cartier “Model A” Mystery Clock For a Good Cause

While lesser known than wristwatches like the Tank and Crash, the mystery clock is as quintessentially Cartier as its wristwatch counterparts. Bonhams’ upcoming Hong Kong auction includes a prime example of the classic Cartier “Model A” mystery clock. The first type of mystery clock developed by Cartier, the Model A, made its debut in 1912 and the first example was sold to banker J. Pierpont Morgan. Compact but striking in its details and transparency, the Model A is essentially a block of rock crystal sitting on a mineral stone base with accents of gold, enamel, and diamonds. This example that will go on the block at Bonhams dates to 1928 and sits on an onyx base. The mystery clock, however, wasn’t invented at Cartier. Instead the clock with floating hands was conceived by Maurice Coüet, a clockmaker who was first a supplier to Cartier before joining the jeweller. Coüet in turn was inspired by the work of 19th century clockmaker-turned-magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, the inventor of the mystery clock concept. The Model A is a two-axis mystery clock with the driving pinions for the hands hidden in each column of the frame Notably, the Model A clock is being sold to benefit an Australian conservation non-profit, thanks to the late Antony Coote, a farmer and businessman whose family formerly controlled Angus & Coote, a storied name in Australian retail that was once the biggest jeweller in the country. After selling his family’s stake in 2006, Coote turn...

Citizen Introduces the Hakuto-R GPS Chronograph SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Jun 10, 2022

Citizen Introduces the Hakuto-R GPS Chronograph

Having debuted the world’s first titanium wristwatch in 1970 – it was the X-8 Chronometer with a case of nearly pure titanium – Citizen now boasts some 50 years of experience with the lightweight metal. Now the brand has taken its materials expertise into outer space, literally. Citizen supplies its proprietary Super Titanium alloy to ispace, a Japanese company that specialises in robotic spacecraft technology for landers and rovers. Ispace utilises Super Titanium for the legs of the lunar lander slated to launch around the end of 2022. Known as Hakuto-R, the ispace lunar programme now as its own commemorative watch, the Citizen Hakuto-R Collaboration Satellite Wave GPS F950. Its case is naturally Super Titanium but some components are made of “Recrystallised Titanium”, a unique, textured alloy that evokes the Moon’s surface. Initial thoughts Like many high-end quartz watches, the Hakuto-R is an electronic grand complication – it features a perpetual calendar, world time, a 1/20th of a second chronograph, and then some. Though this isn’t the first Hakuto-R collaboration, it is the most appealing in terms of aesthetics. It looks the part for a high-end quartz watch – even without the GPS sync it will run within five seconds a month. It has busy, complex aesthetics entirely appropriate for a watch packed with various cutting-edge features. But like Citizen’s other high-end electronic watches, also excellent fit and finish on the external components suc...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Tasting the rainbow at AP House, Complecto and a mean Queen Time+Tide
Jun 10, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Tasting the rainbow at AP House, Complecto and a mean Queen

Hey Everyone, It’s Ricardo and I’m jumping into the Friday Wind Down today.  This week, things died down a bit after the all-out blitz of releases we saw prior. Which in turn opened my schedule up to finally experience what some have called a trip to watch Mecca. And that is the recently opened AP … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Tasting the rainbow at AP House, Complecto and a mean Queen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the Seiko 5 Sports GMT SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jun 8, 2022

Seiko Introduces the Seiko 5 Sports GMT

Having received a facelift in 2019, the Seiko 5 Sports collection draws on the ubiquitous and much loved “SKX” dive watch for its styling, but is lighter on features and easier on the wallet. Now Seiko has unveiled the Seiko 5 Sports Style GMT, which looks even more like an SKX thanks to its five-link bracelet. But its key feature is actually a major function upgrade: the two-tone bezel and 24-hour hand make it a dual-time zone travel watch. The SSK003 with a blue-and-black bezel and red GMT hand Initial thoughts Though similar to the base-model Seiko 5 Sports, the GMT distinguishes itself by virtue of design. It possesses the same overall look but boasts more refined stylistic details like the five-link bracelet and bezel with smart typography, which gives it a more upscale look than the standard model. At the same time, the GMT has a bit more flair than an actual SKX diver (which is a nevertheless is a more accomplished dive watch) as a result of its dual time zone function. I like the added colour contrast between the 24-hour hand and dial, as well as the subtly two-tone bezel. And even though it has more elements due to the extra function, the design and details are restrained. And it’s worth mentioning that while the bracelet has the same Jubilee-esque aesthetics as that of the SKX diver, it has been upgraded with solid end links, which means it should feel less dinky that the SKX bracelet. All three versions are executed well The only downside of the watch i...

Business News: Jean-Claude Biver Joins Norqain Board SJX Watches
Breitling Jun 8, 2022

Business News: Jean-Claude Biver Joins Norqain Board

Founded by a duo who each hail from families long involved in Swiss watchmaking, Norqain is only four years old but has managed to firmly establish its identity as a maker of affordable sports watches. The brand is now helmed by young team with an average age of 35 – now the average is being nudged upwards by the addition of Jean-Claude Biver to Norqain’s board. “My role… allows me to be associated with an exciting brand in an essential price-point for the Swiss watch industry,” says Mr Biver in the announcement of his appointment, “It is very important to have strong Swiss independent brands in different price segments and Norqain offers an exciting challenge to the status quo”. Norqain remains a small brand, but stands out for its use of calibres made by Kenissi, the movement manufacturer majority owned by Tudor and minority owned by Chanel. Perhaps thanks to the strong industrial base of both its owners, Kenissi’s movements are amongst the best in of the price-performance ratio. The brand’s ability to call on a supplier like Kenissi is due in part to its founders, who were born into the industry. Norqain’s lead founder is Ben Küffer, whose father, Marc, once ran Roventa Henex, the private-label watches that is perhaps the biggest of its kind in Switzerland. Another of Norqain’s founders is Ted Schneider, a member of the family that once owned Breitling. Notably, the chief executive of Kenissi is Jean-Paul Girardin, who held the top job at Breitli...

What does Jean-Claude Biver joining the Norqain board of advisers really mean? Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Jun 8, 2022

What does Jean-Claude Biver joining the Norqain board of advisers really mean?

Jean-Claude Biver is a legend in the watch world. He’s fended off the quartz crisis, revived Blancpain, rejuvenated Omega and headed Hublot, TAG Heuer and, later, the entire watch and jewellery division of LVMH. As a result, Biver is considered to be one of the most brilliant minds in the watch industry of all time. … ContinuedThe post What does Jean-Claude Biver joining the Norqain board of advisers really mean? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Independent Watchmaker And A.H.C.I. Co-Founder Vincent Calabrese Reflects On His Career And Discusses His Balance Spring-Less Calasys Escapement (Video) Quill & Pad
Jun 7, 2022

Independent Watchmaker And A.H.C.I. Co-Founder Vincent Calabrese Reflects On His Career And Discusses His Balance Spring-Less Calasys Escapement (Video)

The lockdowns of the pandemic allowed 78-year-old independent watchmaker and A.H.C.I. co-founder Vincent Calabrese a lot of free time to think out things he had been mulling over for years. Foremost among these, his Calasys system, an escapement without a balance spring. Find out much more in this video.

Does buying my first Jaeger-LeCoultre mean that I am finally growing up? Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre mean Jun 7, 2022

Does buying my first Jaeger-LeCoultre mean that I am finally growing up?

I’ve just snapped up my very first Jaeger-LeCoultre, but it was not the JLC I expected to buy. When most people think of JLC it is the iconic Reverso that springs to mind.  For some reason I’ve always hesitated, with the strange thought that I’m not grown up enough to wear one.  This is unexplainable, … ContinuedThe post Does buying my first Jaeger-LeCoultre mean that I am finally growing up? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: How a fatal train crash became the catalyst for the Ball Watch Company’s success Time+Tide
Ball Watch Company’s success Jun 7, 2022

IN-DEPTH: How a fatal train crash became the catalyst for the Ball Watch Company’s success

The domination of the Swiss watch industry feels like an eternal truth, especially given the age of some of the most popular brands which stretch back hundreds of years. They may have always had the upper hand when it came to high-end complications and ornate decoration worthy of royalty, but there was a period of … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: How a fatal train crash became the catalyst for the Ball Watch Company’s success appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Jun 7, 2022

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

At Watches & Wonders 2022 Vacheron Constantin introduced watches in a diverse range, but sandwiched in between the artisanal decoration and complications was a new addition to the Historiques collection of vintage remakes. An unexpected launch given that Vacheron Constantin (VC) already has a luxury-sports watch in its lineup, and largely focuses on dress watches and complications in any case, the Historiques 222 was nevertheless a highlight amongst the new launches, especially given the current appetite for such watches. But the 222 is more than just something that caters to today’s fads. It is a sympathetic remake that manages to incorporate substantial, hidden improvements while preserving the look of the original – but not the feel thanks to a significantly improved bracelet. Initial thoughts As the Overseas has long matured into an established collection amongst VC’s offerings, the return of its predecessor is surprising. My initial reaction was that it is confusing to offer two different luxury sports watch models simultaneously, but it makes sense given that the 222 is a Historiques model, a vintage remake in other words. Not only does VC have a track record of reviving vintage models in style, the 222 can cater to an audience that seeks something more elegant and compact than the Overseas. It’s likely that the return of the 222 was a deliberate decision on VC’s part to create a luxury-sports watch that is different. Of the three luxury sports watches ...

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Air Command delivers new pilot’s chronographs under 37mm Time+Tide
Blancpain Air Command delivers new Jun 7, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Air Command delivers new pilot’s chronographs under 37mm

Blancpain’s Air Command series is getting two new options for the range in titanium and red gold. They’re smaller than the previous 42mm-plus sized versions we are used to, and are being marketed as more “feminine”. But these watches could be great for anyone seeking vintage-esque dimensions, or who, like me, usually prefer watches on … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Air Command delivers new pilot’s chronographs under 37mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard combines military vintage with contemporary style Time+Tide
Jun 6, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard combines military vintage with contemporary style

Eschewing the influence of diving or sports, the pure military inspiration behind the new York & Front Burrard is pretty close to being the perfect functional tool watch. It’s a daily wearer with a distinctive style that comes in any colour you want, as long as it’s black or white. Sized at 38mm for textbook … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard combines military vintage with contemporary style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Sparkling Burgundy,” Spurgles, Cold Duck From Detroit, Rene Pogel (Spell It Backwards), And Other Australian Oddities: If They Are Your Thing You’ll Never Regret It – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jun 4, 2022

“Sparkling Burgundy,” Spurgles, Cold Duck From Detroit, Rene Pogel (Spell It Backwards), And Other Australian Oddities: If They Are Your Thing You’ll Never Regret It – Reprise

Effervescent red wine in Australia was originally known as "sparkling Burgundy" and is often still affectionately referred to as “Spurgles” in accordance with the country's national need to shorten every name. Ken Gargett confesses that he is a fan and shares a few of his favorites here alongside the history of this fascinating sub-genre.

The revolutionary design of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the first true steel sports watch Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jun 3, 2022

The revolutionary design of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the first true steel sports watch

Welcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out. This week, it’s the Audemars … ContinuedThe post The revolutionary design of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the first true steel sports watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the Calibre 135 Observatoire SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jun 3, 2022

Zenith Introduces the Calibre 135 Observatoire

Having already designed its own El Primero limited edition, Phillips has collaborated with Zenith and Voutilainen to create the Calibre 135 Observatoire, a limited edition of 10 watches each powered by a cal. 135-O. The movement was the specially-regulated variant of Zenith’s flagship chronometer wristwatch movement of the mid-20th century, conceived solely to participate in observatory chronometer contests. As such, the movements were never cased and sold, until now. Contained in a platinum case, the movements were light decorated by Voutilainen, which also supplied the guilloche dial via its dial making subsidiary Comblemine. Initial thoughts The Calibre 135 Observatoire is a good looking watch. It’s evidently modelled on the vintage model and doesn’t change too much of the original design, but instead injects a few elegant details that give it more refinement, like the guilloche chapter ring. These discreet flourishes are enough to set it apart as a higher end watch than the vintage original, which are more of a functional precision chronometer. More broadly, it’s a three-way collaboration that reflects the strengths of the collaborators to different degrees. For Phillips, the Observatoire is a sensible collaboration since it chimes with its strength in selling both vintage and modern watches at the top end of the price spectrum. And it also a perfect base for the auctioneer to utilise the discerning eye of the gentlemen behind the project, namely Aurel Bacs a...