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In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 16202 and the Cal. 7121 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref Apr 27, 2022

In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 16202 and the Cal. 7121

Launched in January 2022 to kick off the 50th anniversary year of Audemars Piguet’s most famous watch, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 is the latest generation – or the third generation specifically – of the quintessential Royal Oak design. Design-wise the new “Jumbo” doesn’t depart from its predecessor, the ref. 15202, or even the original ref. 5402 of 1972. Audemars Piguet (AP) has smartly kept the design unchanged, but the watch has been thoroughly and smartly upgraded in many respects, especially in terms of ergonomics and mechanics. The new “Jumbo” is undoubtedly a “hype” watch of today, but it has considerable intrinsic qualities that mark it out as a thoughtfully constructed timepiece, most notably the cal. 7121 within that’s entirely new and the replacement for the long-in-tooth cal. 2120/2121 that has powered every generation of the “Jumbo” since 1972. Developed from the ground up to fit the slim dimensions of the “Jumbo” case, the cal. 7121 still manages to incorporate various amenities and advancements expected in a 21st century construction by a respected manufacture. We explain the movement in depth below. Initial thoughts Famously penned by Gerald Genta in 1972, the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 has near perfect proportions. Wide but flat, angular yet graceful, the “Jumbo” is easily distinguishable from other Royal Oak models. Most other Royal Oak models tend to be thicker regardless of diameter, making the ...

Auction Watch: Sotheby’s Sets Record for Most Expensive Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 2499 Sotheby’s just Apr 27, 2022

Auction Watch: Sotheby’s Sets Record for Most Expensive Patek Philippe Ref. 2499

Sotheby’s just concluded the first sale of the spring auction season, which now moves to Geneva with a series of auctions in the Swiss city starting the first weekend of May. The season opened strongly with several records set at Sotheby’s, most notably with The Nevadian Collector, a sale of Patek Philippe timepieces all owned by an American collector. Made up of 38 watches and one lot of vintage Gay Freres bracelets, the auction was led by an unsurprising favourite that sold for a record price – the possibly unique ref. 2499 in pink gold with a dial signed “Gobbi Milano”. Sotheby’s consultant Sam Hines bringing the hammer down on the ref. 2499 “Gobbi” Four telephone bidders competed for the watch, with bidding swift and aggressive. One of the bidders went big early on, taking the bid from HK$19 million to HK$30 million with one bid – an increment of about US$1.4 million. Eventually one of the phone bidders triumphed and set the record for the most expensive ref. 2499 ever sold at auction. The pink ref. 2499 “Gobbi” hammered for HK$50 million, resulting in a total of HK$60.265 million including the buyer’s premium. That’s equivalent to about US$7.68 million, making it the most expensive ref. 2499 ever sold at auction by some margin. The last record holder was the ref. 2499 “Asprey” that sold in 2018 for about US$ 4 million at Sotheby’s in Geneva – which was also sold by the Nevadian. While the ref. 2499 “Gobbi” was the headline lot,...

MEET THE TEAM: Ricardo’s top five from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Apr 26, 2022

MEET THE TEAM: Ricardo’s top five from Watches & Wonders

We’re a couple of weeks removed from Watches and Wonders and I’ve had enough time to recover from all the spicy salami and new watch releases. I’ve thought about the 100+ watches that I spent a few minutes with, in the hope of identifying those that left a lasting impression. And truly, there were some … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Ricardo’s top five from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Seven Days of Cartier on Loupe This SJX Watches
Cartier Apr 25, 2022

Auction Watch: Seven Days of Cartier on Loupe This

Online-only watch auctioneer Loupe This has just announced a week of Cartier watches, with two watches being listed daily from April 25 to 29. The lineup is headlined by an original Crash made by Cartier London in 1969 that comes direct from the original owner no less. It has an appropriate hefty estimate of US$500,000-800,000. London Crash Some of the other highlights in the sale include a trio of white-metal Tanks, including a Tank Asymetrique in platinum, one of a hundred made in 1996. Estimated at US$30,000-50,000, it’s smaller than the recent Prive Tank Asymetrique, with dimensions comparable to the classic Tank LC, which is the next watch. Tank Asymétrique This is a rare variant of an otherwise common watch. Produced for several decades in a range of iterations, the Tank Louis Cartier, or “LC”, is commonly found in yellow gold, but less often in white gold, and rarely with a period-correct bracelet. Dating to the 1970s, this has an estimate of US$20,000-30,000. Tank LC Another Tank from the 1970s is this Tank Cintree “Jumbo”, also in white gold and once again with a matching gold bracelet. This is the largest size of arguably the most desirable Tank model, but made slightly more affordable by the fact that it was made in the 1970s instead of the first decades of the 20th century. The estimate is US$50,000-80,000. Tank Cintree The first pair go live on Monday, April 25, Los Angeles time (GMT-7), which will be April 26 for most of the world. You can see them...

INTRODUCING: Hublot debuts the first-ever 100% ceramic-cased minute repeater Time+Tide
Hublot debuts Apr 25, 2022

INTRODUCING: Hublot debuts the first-ever 100% ceramic-cased minute repeater

Hublot is all about material innovation and each year they continue to step it up. This Watches & Wonders, for example, they expanded their sapphire portfolio by adding the colour purple. But while it seems Hublot can bring something new each release cycle with ease, each effort is, of course, the fruit of extensive labour … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Hublot debuts the first-ever 100% ceramic-cased minute repeater appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback Hands-on Apr 25, 2022

TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback Hands-on Review

The Watch That Changed My Mind On TAG! What we love: Comfortable and easy to wear, light for its size and specsBang for buck in finish, movement and specsGood looking design with vintage ques What we don’t love: Wears on the larger size for a 42mm mainly due to its heightNoisy movement and winding rotor (some may like this though)Some wearers may find the dial harder to read at a glance with the lack of contrast in the numerals Overall rating: 8/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7.5 / 10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 Tag Heuer has always been one of those brands that never grabbed my attention. I always saw it as a watch brand that was a little overpriced, and like a lot of brands, you’re paying for more marketing than the watch itself. Now, I have owned a Tag Heuer Carrera Heuer01 in the past, so I’m not adverse to TAG at all, but it has since moved on to make way for others in my collection. So when I had the opportunity to get my hands on the new 60th Anniversary limited edition Autavia Flyback Chronograph, I was looking forward to road testing the latest iteration of the distinguished Autavia line. A Short History Lesson Before we go any further, let’s take a step back and in case you’re not familiar with the Autavia model and its history, here’s a quick refresh. The Autavia wristwatch collection, the first product launched under the leadership of Jack Heuer 60 years ago, got its name from two pillars of TAG Heuer’s history: Automobile and Av...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Makina Gabriel delivers singular looks at a bargain price Time+Tide
Apr 25, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Makina Gabriel delivers singular looks at a bargain price

The popularity of microbrands is predominantly down to two main reasons. Firstly, there is the fact that they’re often far more affordable than established watch brands, but of equal importance is their relative freedom to create fresh ideas without the pressure that a century-long history brings. Instead of re-hashing old designs with slight updates every … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Makina Gabriel delivers singular looks at a bargain price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MEET THE TEAM: Jeremy’s 5 favourite steel sports watches from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Apr 25, 2022

MEET THE TEAM: Jeremy’s 5 favourite steel sports watches from Watches & Wonders

A couple of years ago, when I first started @timepeacelove, my Instagram page dedicated to my passion for watches, I made a joke to my wife saying, “Hey, maybe one day I’ll get the chance to experience Watches and Wonders in Geneva.” I would have never thought that day would come, but my experience last month … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Jeremy’s 5 favourite steel sports watches from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

‘Keeper Of Time’: Superb Full-Length Feature Documentary On Time And Watchmaking Premiering On April 28, 2022 Quill & Pad
Apr 24, 2022

‘Keeper Of Time’: Superb Full-Length Feature Documentary On Time And Watchmaking Premiering On April 28, 2022

Back in December 2020 a teaser trailer was released for a then-upcoming feature documentary called 'Keeper of Time.' Elizabeth Doerr was quite excited by the trailer and couldn’t wait for its final release. Well, that release has finally come, and she has had the chance to preview it. She shares her (very positive) thoughts about the film here.

Long-awaited film “Keeper of Time” premieres worldwide this week Time+Tide
Apr 24, 2022

Long-awaited film “Keeper of Time” premieres worldwide this week

Years ago, when I watched the documentary The Watchmaker’s Apprentice, which details the journey of George Daniels and the path of watchmaker Roger W. Smith becoming his sole apprentice, I remember being awe-struck at the meticulous art of watchmaking and  the perseverance required to achieve mastery in the field. Since that documentary, however, there have not … ContinuedThe post Long-awaited film “Keeper of Time” premieres worldwide this week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter: Concentrically Colorful Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter Concentrically Apr 23, 2022

Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter: Concentrically Colorful

Rarely has the term sports watch been as appropriate as when applied to the BR 03-94 Multimeter from Bell & Ross. This nifty chronograph displays five different scales on the dial to measure various things. In that sense, it is a modern-day version of the vintage chronographs with “snail scales” that did the same, though not in such an elaborate way.

The Collector’s Crossroads: The dizzying effect of Watches and Wonders 2022 Time+Tide
Apr 23, 2022

The Collector’s Crossroads: The dizzying effect of Watches and Wonders 2022

American graphic designer Chip Kidd once said, “You can be crippled by too many choices, especially if you don’t know what your goals are.” The truth behind this quote didn’t quite hit me until Watches and Wonders 2022. And it starts the moment you walk into the Palexpo, its vast halls devouring sound like a … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: The dizzying effect of Watches and Wonders 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rolex Explorer could be your one watch collection for life Time+Tide
Rolex Explorer could be your Apr 23, 2022

The Rolex Explorer could be your one watch collection for life

Welcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out. This week, it’s the Rolex … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Explorer could be your one watch collection for life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Repeater Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet having made such watches Apr 22, 2022

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Repeater Ceramic

Having unveiled a series of integrated-bracelet watches in candy-coloured ceramic at Watches & Wonders 2022, Hublot has followed up with a “high complication” in ceramic, the Big Bang Integral Cathedral Minute Repeater Ceramic. While complicated watches in end-to-end ceramic already exist, striking watches in ceramic are rare, with only Hublot and Audemars Piguet having made such watches. The Big Bang Integral is novel for combining both a tourbillon and repeater, one with longer-than-usual cathedral gongs in fact. And it manages to be water resistant in contrast to most striking watches that are merely moisture-proof, due to the challenge of sealing the slide while allowing maximum sound transmission. Initial thoughts The latest Big Bang Integral perfectly encapsulates Hublot as a brand, illustrating its strengths (and a few weaknesses). It’s powered by a complex, in-house movement contained matched with a case and bracelet that showcases the brand’s proficiency with unusual materials – all of which is possible thanks to the brand’s expansive yet agile manufacture. In typical Hublot fashion, the watch is loud – visually rather than acoustically – even in black. It looks like a Hublot, and the brand has essentially only one aesthetic. It has a technical, modern aesthetic that goes well with the open dial, a feature that’s uncommon in minute repeaters but useful since it reveals the entirety of the strikework. At almost US$300,000, the Tourbillon Repeat...

VIDEO: Hands-on with all 11 missions of the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Time+Tide
Omega MoonSwatch Apr 22, 2022

VIDEO: Hands-on with all 11 missions of the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch

To say that the announcement of the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch BioCeramic was the debut of the year would be an understatement. In fact, you could even argue it was the drop of the last decade. Waitlists and queues for watches are by no means a foreign concept to collectors, but this idea is typically … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hands-on with all 11 missions of the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Nothing like a good ol’ impromptu watch meetup Time+Tide
Apr 22, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Nothing like a good ol’ impromptu watch meetup

Hey there. It’s Ricardo again with another Friday Wind Down takeover. It was only a matter of time before I would be back for Zach and this week, provided the perfect opportunity to steal the reins. This past Monday, I met up with some #watchfam for a last minute dinner hosted by Derek (@theminutemon) for … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Nothing like a good ol’ impromptu watch meetup appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Konstantin Chaykin Unveils the Extraordinary Lucomorye Clock SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Apr 21, 2022

Konstantin Chaykin Unveils the Extraordinary Lucomorye Clock

While better known for his ingenious and quirky wristwatches, Konstantin Chaykin’s roots are in clockmaking, large, complicated, and ornate clocks to be exact. Six years in the making, his latest timekeeper is the Lucomorye Clock, a testament to the Russian watchmaker’s aesthetic vision and mechanic prowess. Lavishly decorated with gemstones and precious materials by renowned Russian jeweller, Ilgiz Fazulzyanov, the Lucomorye Clock has a fairytale exterior. But perhaps more significant are the fascinating mechanics centred on a remarkable way of displaying the hours – a chain wraps around a drum to display to form of Roman numerals that change with the time. The simplicity of the chain belies the mechanical complexity within, which is naturally patented. Initial Thoughts Mr Chaykin’s rise to fame internationally started with the Joker, a whimsical wristwatch with an amusing “rolling eye” display. But though the Joker and its successors remain Mr Chaykin’s bestsellers, they are not the best representation of his creative and mechanical genius. His talents are illustrated best with clocks, which have no limitations in terms of size, allowing for intricate complications impossible on a small scale. Amongst his most notable clocks is the series of Easter-themed clocks that he released annually starting in 2005, each with a complication to indicate the date of Orthodox Easter – an unconventional and rare complication due to the complexity of calculations req...

William Wood is raffling a motorbike, we also raffled a motorbike. Which one is better? Time+Tide
Apr 21, 2022

William Wood is raffling a motorbike, we also raffled a motorbike. Which one is better?

START YOUR ENGINES:  In 2018, we had a little dalliance with the brand that used to inhabit our HQ space, and now lives next door: Royal Enfield. Basically, we had a few beers one afternoon and found some matte-black, lightly modded common ground between watches and vintage-inspired bikes. The result: a Time+Tide motorcycle, later raffled off … ContinuedThe post William Wood is raffling a motorbike, we also raffled a motorbike. Which one is better? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Apr 21, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic

Nivada Grenchen are one of those brands that make you wish you’d heard of them years before you first saw them due to their knack of delivering some of the most perfect executions of vintage reissues that can be found in the Swiss watch industry today. The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic takes … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Five sleeper picks from the upcoming “Precious Blues” Ineichen auction Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Apr 20, 2022

Five sleeper picks from the upcoming “Precious Blues” Ineichen auction

A core component of being an auction house is curation, often under the scope of a particular theme. But, even with a theme in mind, we often see an abundance of the usual suspects: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. Swiss auction house Ineichen, however, loves to work outside the norm. Sure, they … ContinuedThe post Five sleeper picks from the upcoming “Precious Blues” Ineichen auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pretty in pink (and purple) – Nomos spin the colour wheel for the new Club Campus Time+Tide
Omega Apr 20, 2022

Pretty in pink (and purple) – Nomos spin the colour wheel for the new Club Campus

Colour is no longer a novelty in the watch space, with many brands releasing rainbow-inspired dials in their everyday wear pieces. We’ve extensively covered the contributions from Rolex and Omega to name but a couple. Nomos is also no stranger to colour, previously applying a bright touch to the Ahoi. With the new Club Campus “blue … ContinuedThe post Pretty in pink (and purple) – Nomos spin the colour wheel for the new Club Campus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

California dreaming: The tale behind the “anonymous” Panerai California Time+Tide
Panerai California Whilst I’m definitely Apr 19, 2022

California dreaming: The tale behind the “anonymous” Panerai California

Whilst I’m definitely not a Paneristi , there are some models of Panerai that I do like very much, especially their Submersible range. The brand’s consistent vision, style and delivery has won them a loyal fanbase with Panerai claiming 30,000 official Paneristi across the world. Panerai have coped some flak over recent years, with comments on … ContinuedThe post California dreaming: The tale behind the “anonymous” Panerai California appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Apr 19, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

Sotheby’s forthcoming Important Watches I in Hong Kong is the first live auction of the year by a major auction house, or so accurately it’s the second day of the auction, with the sale of a mega, single-owner Patek Philippe collection happening in the evening the day before. With the strong demand for independent watchmaking, the 214-lots sale encompasses timepieces from a range of niche and not-so-niche indies. The lineup is naturally led by F.P. Journe, perhaps the marquee name in independent watchmaking today, but the most valuable lot is the very rare and very expensive Montre École, one of 11 watches born of the Naissance d’une Montre project backed by Greubel Forsey and Philippe Dufour. We round up six highlights from amongst the independent watchmakers at the sale, which starts at 2:00 pm (GMT +8) on April 26, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Montre École no. 09/11 Lot 2127: H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F; Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Having been business partners for a decade or so – Moser’s sister company supplies hairsprings to MB&F; – the two brands revealed their first collaboration in 2020 when both coincidentally celebrated their 15th anniversary. The more complicated of the two anniversary editions, the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon was more Moser than MB&F; with its dial colour and movement, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. The Cylindrical Tourbillon combines the best of both brands. The aesthe...

Why Fortis is sending their latest new movement into space Time+Tide
Fortis Apr 19, 2022

Why Fortis is sending their latest new movement into space

Fortis is no stranger to outer space. The 1962 Spacematic presented to Gemini astronauts paved the way for Fortis’ space-dwelling endeavours, before partnering cosmonaut expeditions between 1992 and 2003 and achieving the ultimate goal of sending a watch into space. Now, some three decades later, Fortis launch an in-house chronograph movement, the WERK 17, both … ContinuedThe post Why Fortis is sending their latest new movement into space appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCH CONFESSIONS: “Yes, I flip watches. So what’s the big deal?” Time+Tide
Apr 18, 2022

WATCH CONFESSIONS: “Yes, I flip watches. So what’s the big deal?”

EDITOR’S NOTE: We recently ran the first parts of our Watch Confessions series in which Time+Tide interviewed anonymous members of the community to get them to share their darkest watch-related secrets. In this latest instalment, which you can read about in Issue 4 of NOW magazine, one man explains why he chooses to flip watches with … ContinuedThe post WATCH CONFESSIONS: “Yes, I flip watches. So what’s the big deal?” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.