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THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Rolex GMT Master II 126711CHNR Rootbeer (#4) Time+Tide
Rolex GMT Master II 126711CHNR Jan 22, 2022

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Rolex GMT Master II 126711CHNR Rootbeer (#4)

Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. This month we’ve been counting down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best, on the basis of the online traffic. Heading deep into the top 10 it’s the Rolex GMT Master II 126711CHNR Rootbeer at number 4… Two-tone watches don’t … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Rolex GMT Master II 126711CHNR Rootbeer (#4) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Obituary: Giovanni Zavota, Vintage Watch Dealer (1952-2022) SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2481 Jan 21, 2022

Obituary: Giovanni Zavota, Vintage Watch Dealer (1952-2022)

A distinctive gentleman whose trademark outfit always called for multiple scarves looped around his neck, Giovanni Zavota was one of the old-school Italian dealers who shaped vintage watch collecting of the late 20th century, having sold some of the most important wristwatches – amongst them a steel ref. 1518 and the platinum ref. 2499. He passed away on 15 January, aged 69. I would see him each time I went to Geneva for the auctions and he was clearly an original character. He was most comfortable conversing in Italian, which I speak none of, so we only spoke briefly a few times. But one occasion that stands out in my memory is when I encountered him in Italy and he was wearing a Patek Philippe ref. 2481 with a cloisonné dial – and a matching bracelet – on one wrist, and on the other he had on a crisp and enormous Longines Lindbergh. Two watches of different style and disparate value, yet each interesting and important in its own way – a sure sign the man had good taste and understood historical significance. Giovanni Zavota. Photo – Auro Montanari A testament to his place in the world of vintage watches – specifically the pre-internet world – was the turnout at his funeral, which took place on January 18 in Collecchio, a small town just south of Parma where he had spent his summers as a boy. Almost a hundred people turned up, including family and old friends, but also a large contingent that exemplified the Italian-centric, late-20th century world of vinta...

Tennis star Ash Barty teams up with Rado for new HyperChrome and artwork Time+Tide
Rado Jan 20, 2022

Tennis star Ash Barty teams up with Rado for new HyperChrome and artwork

If you’re an ambitious tennis player, you could do a whole lot worse than start wearing a Rado. Consider the evidence. Former ambassador, Andy Murray partnered with the Swiss brand in 2012 and the next year he became the first Brit to conquer Wimbledon since 1936. Adding further credence to Rado’s lucky-charm powers, Ash Barty … ContinuedThe post Tennis star Ash Barty teams up with Rado for new HyperChrome and artwork appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories in Singapore SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories Jan 20, 2022

Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories in Singapore

Having celebrated the 90th anniversary of the Reverso last year with several limited editions – including the mega-complicated Quadriptyque with four faces – Jaeger-LeCoultre is revisiting its iconic swivelling wristwatch with a retrospective in Singapore. Open to the public from January 23, the event takes place in the brand’s boutique in the Marina Bay Sands casino and shopping complex. The store has been transformed into a miniature museum that includes exhibits of historical watches and material, and also interactive sessions where visitors can try their hands at perlage, the technique of applying a repeating circular graining often found in watch movements. 1931-2021 The retrospective includes a compact but all-encompassing line up of watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s museum in Le Sentier, including the very first Reverso from 1931 as well as the latest models conceived to mark the 90th anniversary. While the original Reverso is famed for its clever simplicity, the exhibits also include little-known variations such as the Reverso Cordonnet from 1933, a stylish Reverso for ladies that has a black-cord strap and two-tone case. And the exhibits naturally include the uncommon, highly-complicated models from the 1990s, when the brand first ventured into larger cases for the Reverso – and first started both sides of the case for displays. In fact, some of those watches are landmarks in Jaeger-LeCoultre history: the brand’s first-ever tourbillon as well as chim...

VIDEO: Top watches of 2021 above $20k (Part 2) Time+Tide
Jan 20, 2022

VIDEO: Top watches of 2021 above $20k (Part 2)

To finish off the list of our favourite 2021 releases by budget, we’re going beyond the notion of affordability, and even beyond attainability. Whether or not you have half a million dollars to drop on a watch, doesn’t necessarily guarantee that you will be able to get one, and that just makes the prospect all … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Top watches of 2021 above $20k (Part 2) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Baltic Micro-Rotor MR01 SJX Watches
Breguet numerals so I was Jan 20, 2022

Up Close: Baltic Micro-Rotor MR01

A French micro-brand that specialises in watches with retro style, Baltic unveiled its smallest – and perhaps most classical – offering in October last year, the Micro-Rotor MR01. Coming in at just 36 mm in diameter, the MR01 is no doubt a surprising size for a modern watch. Despite its compact size, the MR01 manages to squeeze in a lot relative to the price. Most obvious is a tasteful design that brings to mind gentlemen’s watches from the 1930s – the Calatrava ref. 96 easily comes to mind. But equally interesting is the slim automatic movement with a micro-rotor that is responsible for the elegant proportions (and affordability). Its combination of aesthetics and price meant the initial run of 200 pieces in each colour – “salmon”, blue, and a no-nonsense silver – quickly sold out. Of the three, the “salmon” dial immediately stands out, just because it’s the flavour of the dial for vintage-inspired dress watches. But when the opportunity for review came along, I opted for the silver dial, as I found the clean palette attractive. As pleasing as the MR01 seemed in photos, there were a few details I wasn’t convinced by, such as the wide bezel and applied Breguet numerals, so I was looking forward to wearing one for a few days. The all-silver is a good look and one often found on more expensive Calatrava-inspired watches such as the Naoya Hida NH Type 1B Initial thoughts After handling the MR01 for the first time, it seemed to be a thoughtful, comple...

H. Moser & Cie. Unveils the Endeavour Total Eclipse SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Unveils Jan 20, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Unveils the Endeavour Total Eclipse

H. Moser & Cie. has teamed up with the menswear store with outposts in Hong Kong and New York for the Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse, a striking creation that utilises the starkness of Vantablack and polished elements on the dial to evoke a solar eclipse. The Endeavour Total Eclipse will be offered in two guises, both cased in steel but with the dial flange, markers, and hands in either matching steel or contrasting red gold. Initial thoughts Being an independent watchmaker that typically does the traditional with a distinct, quirky twist, Moser is clearly being itself with the Endeavour Total Eclipse. The styling is minimalist but different enough to be interesting – the domed hour markers and Breguet-style hands are rarely found on Moser’s watches, save for special runs such as the Bryan Ferry edition. The unusual design is largely thanks  to Mark Cho, The Armoury’s co-founder and a dapper dresser with a passion for classically-sized watches with attractive details. His primary requirement for the collaboration was a small(ish) case, explaining its 38 mm diameter that’s substantially more compact than Moser’s typical offerings – doubt good news for enthusiasts who share the same taste. But the highlight is the dial, which is a first for Moser. Thought the brand has used Vantablack in the past, this is the very first time it is combining a Vantablack-coated dial with hour markers. Small but high contrast, the hour markers easily stand out from the b...

VIDEO: The top watches of 2021 above $20k (Part 1) Time+Tide
Jan 20, 2022

VIDEO: The top watches of 2021 above $20k (Part 1)

Gentle readers (and viewers), the gloves are now officially off. No more budget, no more “bang-for-buck”, and no more bargains. Chances are if you’re about to buy one of these watches, you’ve got some serious cash to splash, and we’re just here to show you where the deep end of the pool is. Stay tuned … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The top watches of 2021 above $20k (Part 1) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The TAG Heuer Connected collection (#6) Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Connected collection #6 Editor’s Jan 19, 2022

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The TAG Heuer Connected collection (#6)

Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. This month we’ve been counting down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best, on the basis of the online traffic. Heading deep into the top 10 it’s the TAG Heuer Connected collection at number 6… It’s fair to say that … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The TAG Heuer Connected collection (#6) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: British Navy sailor jailed for stealing Special Forces dive watches Time+Tide
Tudor FXD Jan 19, 2022

RECOMMENDED READING: British Navy sailor jailed for stealing Special Forces dive watches

Watches with real military heritage carry a special allure to them – something that has been recognised both by enthusiasts and collectors. There’s a reassuring authenticity about a tool watch designed for a specific purpose (look at the Marine Nationale’s input into the design of the Tudor FXD, for example), or a watch built to … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: British Navy sailor jailed for stealing Special Forces dive watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OPINION: These are the watch terms that drive me nuts… Time+Tide
Jan 18, 2022

OPINION: These are the watch terms that drive me nuts…

I’ve never understood the term “tool watch”. After all, you don’t hear people talking about tool cars or tool computers – because “tool” is redundant. Anything used to do something is a tool, and last I checked, even a dress watch tells the time. If you want to refer to a dive watch, then call it … ContinuedThe post OPINION: These are the watch terms that drive me nuts… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 2022 Australian Open Begins . . . Without World Number One (And Hublot Ambassador) Novak Djokovic Quill & Pad
Hublot Ambassador Novak Djokovic Elizabeth Jan 17, 2022

The 2022 Australian Open Begins . . . Without World Number One (And Hublot Ambassador) Novak Djokovic

Elizabeth Doerr's entire world seems to have been following the Australian Open 2022 tennis saga over the last couple of weeks – even people who generally do not follow tennis. So as the first Grand Slam of the tennis calendar 2022 gets underway, she briefly examines Novak Djokovic and his pretty scandalous behavior as he relates to our watch world.

The Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem is pure horological poetry Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Jan 17, 2022

The Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem is pure horological poetry

It really isn’t often that watches, even the super-luxury timepieces that stretch well into six or seven figures, put so much care into visual execution as the Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem. In this modern world where even the existence of such expensive items must be examined as a moral dilemma, this watch is one … ContinuedThe post The Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem is pure horological poetry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Revival A3642 resurrects an octagonal design unlike any other Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jan 17, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Revival A3642 resurrects an octagonal design unlike any other

Who did it first? That is always a prominent question in watch design. When people begin to discuss the Zenith Defy, many people categorise it as an intriguing alternative to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The Royal Oak is credited as the reference that birthed the luxury sports category, which made its debut in 1972. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Revival A3642 resurrects an octagonal design unlike any other appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jan 17, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch”

Though it was two years ago as the Grand Seiko’s flagship Spring Drive movement, the 9RA5 still feels new, simply because the latest-generation movement hasn’t found its way into many watches, save for a pair of limited editions. Now it finally makes it into a regular-production model, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch”. The latest Spring Drive, like the mechanical SLGH005, is inspired by the tree of the same name that’s native to the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi. Initial thoughts The SLGH009 “White Birch” clearly becomes the Grand Seiko’s showcase Spring Drive – it resembles the previous generation’s bestseller, the famous “Snowflake”, but is substantially upgraded in terms of features and finish. The combination of familiar styling and improved quality makes it attractive. Part of the appeal lies in the 9RA5 movement, which on the surface seems like a mere upgrade over the predecessor 9R65. But it is more than just the power reserve being increased to five days, and the new calibre boasts an entirely new architecture, including both a new gear train and integrated circuit for the Spring Drive regulator, as well as a better finishing. The other aspect of its appeal lies in the design, which has dubbed “Evolution 9”. As always is the case with Grand Seiko, Evolution 9 is inspired by vintage Grand Seiko models, but brings with it a sense of solidity and refinement, thanks to the flatter case, heftier bracelet, a...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Phantasos Triclops is that rarest of things – a truly original watch Time+Tide
Jan 17, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Phantasos Triclops is that rarest of things – a truly original watch

EDITOR’S NOTE:  We have been advised by readers that this watch has allegedly not been sent to consumers despite repeated promises.  We have contracted the brand ourselves and not received a response. We suggest readers be very wary about proceeding to buy these watches. Let me guess, you see a Submariner and you yawn. Time and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Phantasos Triclops is that rarest of things – a truly original watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The slinky genius of the record-breaking Bulgari Octo Finissimo Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo “You can Jan 16, 2022

The slinky genius of the record-breaking Bulgari Octo Finissimo

“You can never be too rich or too thin” isn’t a sentiment I generally agree with, but in the world of horology, opulence and a slender profile are considered attractive virtues. And while some attempts at both smack of a “because we can” attitude (without considering whether or not that exercise is successful), sometimes, just … ContinuedThe post The slinky genius of the record-breaking Bulgari Octo Finissimo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why I sold my favourite watch – the 2008 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 42mm Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 42mm Jan 15, 2022

Why I sold my favourite watch – the 2008 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 42mm

When a wound is fresh it hurts the most to prod it, but the earlier the treatment begins the sooner the healing process can resolve. Some of you may have previously read my admittedly numerous articles mentioning my 2008 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean, including this veritable love poem to the watch as I declared that … ContinuedThe post Why I sold my favourite watch – the 2008 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 42mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Horizon Light Up Smartwatch SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Jan 15, 2022

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Horizon Light Up Smartwatch

Now in its fifth year of smartwatches, Louis Vuitton has just unveiled the latest generation of its “connected” watch, the Tambour Horizon Light Up. Still easily recognisable as a Louis Vuitton watch, and looking more like a watch than a device – that is the point of it – the Light Up is a thoughtful evolution of the concept, bringing with it a rounded, edge-to-edge screen and redesigned case. The result is a surprisingly attractive watch, albeit one that is amongst the priciest smartwatches on the market. The Light Up gets its name from the “rainbow” bezel powered by two dozen LEDs Initial thoughts Smartwatches with screens generally fall into two categories. One comes from the likes of Apple and Samsung, gadgets for the wrist that are evidently electronic devices. And the other are those from traditional watchmakers, ranging from TAG Heuer to Montblanc, which are typically resemble large wrist instruments for sports. With its simple case and discreet buttons, the Light Up clearly just wants to be a watch – and it succeeds. It is a (very) luxe smartwatch, so it’s not for everyone, but there’s no denying that the Light Up is appealing as a watch with intelligent features. With its Ressence-like case and whimsical features, the watch avoids the oversized wrist gadget look, and perfectly encapsulates the brand’s design prowess and house style. Left to right: the steel case in a polished finish, matte black PVD, and matte brown PVD And the Light Up is, ...

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Casablanca SJX Watches
Franck Muller Jan 14, 2022

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Casablanca

Now in its third decade, Franck Muller is a success story of independent watchmaking, having gone from a small outfit centred on its eponymous founder to a brand with nine-figure annual revenue. Alongside its stable of inventive and highly complicated wristwatches, the brand is most famous for its tonneau-shaped watch case – the Cintrée Curvex – which was so successful in the 1990s that made tonneau cases a thing in contemporary watchmaking. The new Vanguard Casablanca is an evolution of that tonneau shape, while adopting the palette and styling of the Cintrée Curvex Casablanca that was a bestseller when it was launched in 1998. While the Vanguard was introduced in 2014, the Casablanca makes it debuts with a new 43 mm size that fills the gap between the 41 mm and 45 mm cases. Initial thoughts The original Casablanca took its name from the 1942 film starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. Meant to evoke the era of steamship travel and exotic port cities, the Casablanca had oversized Arabic numerals and dials in retro colours like salmon and sand. That’s been translated into the Vanguard Casablanca, which blends the retro style of the original with a distinctly modern case in a sporty, masculine size. It’s a strong and appealing design that is arguably even more quintessentially Franck Muller than the earlier versions of the Vanguard. The Casablanca is available as a time-only and also a chronograph Because the look is very much typical of Franck Muller, thi...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New watches and a new Time+Tide team member Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Zenith Jan 14, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New watches and a new Time+Tide team member

Well, 2022 is certainly not wasting any time when it comes to new announcements. Already Grand Seiko, Zenith and TAG Heuer have launched fresh timepieces this week, and there is only more to come with LVMH Watch Week rapidly approaching. Grand Seiko dropped the mic, launching a second White Birch inspired watch: the Grand Seiko … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New watches and a new Time+Tide team member appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Naomi Osaka Limited Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Naomi Osaka Limited Jan 13, 2022

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Naomi Osaka Limited Edition

Naomi Osaka is undeniably one of the modern tennis greats, but where she really stands out is in the press conferences. I’ll be the first to admit that I’m not a tennis fan, but her dry humour and earnest attitude makes her seem like one of the most approachable and down-to-earth athletes of this generation. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Naomi Osaka Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The top 10 watches of 2021 between $10k-$20k Time+Tide
Jan 13, 2022

VIDEO: The top 10 watches of 2021 between $10k-$20k

Now we’re getting to the pointy end of the 2021 roundup, and there isn’t a single watch listed here that doesn’t mean serious business. Between $10,000 and $20,000 USD lie some people’s grail watches, culture-changing icons, or if you’re lucky, just more nice watches for your collection. Here are some of the best releases of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The top 10 watches of 2021 between $10k-$20k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

No Secret: The Journe Society Chronometer From F.P. Journe – Reprise Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe Reprise While these days Jan 12, 2022

No Secret: The Journe Society Chronometer From F.P. Journe – Reprise

While these days community building in the enthusiast realm seems increasingly the domain of brand-agnostic organizations, there remain old-school organizations whose members are devoted to the watches of a single maker. One such example is the Journe Society, a small, low-profile group of enthusiast collectors. GaryG sheds some light on the group and its specially commissioned group watch.

Mark Ronson is Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador, but his collection shows he’s a genuine watch guy Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s new ambassador but Jan 12, 2022

Mark Ronson is Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador, but his collection shows he’s a genuine watch guy

Musician and producer Mark Ronson has just been revealed as Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador. The good news? This isn’t your standard take the-money-and-run celebrity endorsement. The DJ, songwriter and record producer is a genuine watch guy as this peek into his collection reveals.  Better still, ahead of this announcement, Ronson’s go-to wristwear offered stone-cold proof … ContinuedThe post Mark Ronson is Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador, but his collection shows he’s a genuine watch guy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.