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Results for Antoine Norbert de Patek

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Antoine Norbert de Patek

Polish-born watchmaker who founded Patek Philippe in Geneva (1839; renamed 1851).

A Lange & Sohne Odysseus Gets Trick Automatic Chronograph Worn & Wound
Sinn EZM1 When started Mar 27, 2023

A Lange & Sohne Odysseus Gets Trick Automatic Chronograph

A Lange & Sohne came to Watches & Wonders with just a single release this year, and that’s all they needed to make a big impression. The watch is a new member of the Odysseus family, and it welcomes the brand’s first automatic chronograph. Like all of Lange chronograph movements, the new L156.1 within this watch is quite special, both mechanically and aesthetically. It should come as no surprise that the Odysseus platform accepts a chronograph compilation with ease, given the existing set of pushers that are integrated into the case, which are normally used to adjust the day and date. They still are, however their main function has been shifted to operating the chronograph. The Odysseus Chronograph retains the outsized day and date apertures at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively, as well as a running seconds hand nested at 6 o’clock. There are no other sub dials present. The timing seconds and minute hands are stacked together and centrally mounted, just like the equally fabulous Sinn EZM1. When started, the red anodized aluminum timing seconds hand kicks into action, and the second timing hand records each minute that passes, up to 60 minutes. One unique detail here worth noting is that, when reset, that seconds hand will retrace every lap it’s taken around the dial. So if you’ve timed something for 15 minutes before resetting, the seconds hand will make 15 laps in quick succession back to its starting place. These operations are routed through the integrated pusher...

Take Some Me-Time With Oris & The New ProPilot X Kermit Edition Worn & Wound
Oris & Mar 27, 2023

Take Some Me-Time With Oris & The New ProPilot X Kermit Edition

Oris is expanding on their popular ProPilot X range of watches this year (a watch we reviewed here), but probably not in the way you were expecting. Meet the ProPilot X Kermit Edition, a green dial ProPilot X with a positive message and an easter egg up its sleeve. This watch represents Oris’ first time collaborating with Disney’s The Muppets franchise to create a truly unique experience around their popular pilot watch, and it gives us a deeper insight into Oris the brand than ever before. The theme of this watch is taking a minute for yourself, not taking life too seriously, and a reminder to have some fun.  The most striking detail of this ProPilot X is, obviously, the bright green dial. It’s not just any green, this is a key lime pie, cartoon level of green, and with a name like this you had better bring it. And bring it Oris most certainly has with this dial. I’d go so far as to say they could have ditched the white hour markers altogether and fully leaned into the concept, but they are there, so there is a level of practicality to the watch. There’s even a date window, but that part isn’t as straightforward. The big reveal of this watch happens on the first of every month, where the date window will reveal not a number, but an icon of the watch’s namesake, Kermit the Frog, of The Muppets fame. This is the once a month reminder to take a step back, lighten up a bit, and reflect on the positives in your life. That’s the idea, at least, and it might jus...

Rolex Redesigns the Daytona for 60th Anniversary Worn & Wound
Rolex Redesigns Mar 27, 2023

Rolex Redesigns the Daytona for 60th Anniversary

Rolex has given the Daytona its first proper redesign since the 116520 was released in 2000. With it comes an updated movement, and a few nods to older references that we’ve been asking for, as well a surprise or two along the way. The new Daytona design replaces all existing references with a new base collection that spans from steel; yellow Rolesor; yellow, white, and Everose gold; and of course, platinum. Each receives an updated 4131 automatic movement which finally brings stuff like the Chronergy escapement to the collection. It also gets an openworked oscillating weight, which, for the first time ever on a Daytona, is visible through an exhibition caseback on the platinum anniversary reference.  At a glance, the new Daytona doesn’t look all that different from the outgoing references. This is very much an iteration of the same concept that’s been evolving since 1953. The most immediately apparent departure from the prior generation is the thickness of the rings surrounding the sub dials, the shape of the hour markers, and the bezel construction. They add up to a notably different vibe that presents a slightly jarring take on the dial design thanks to the altered proportions. The thinner sub dial surrounds in particular highlight this difference, and it’s a detail most noticeable on the steel examples as they are contrasted against the dial color alone. The precious metal references get those sub dials filled in, which work well here. One of the most welcomed...

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS Mar 27, 2023

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS honours the Alps further with a Monte Rosa inspired dial. The calibre L.U.C 96.40-L is only 3.3mm thick, with the watch totalling 8mm. It’s also the second of Chopard’s movements to be granted a Geneva Seal, the first being the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon. If you want to see … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Black Bay’s Back, Alright! Tudor Launches the New Black Bay 54 and more Worn & Wound
Tudor Launches Mar 27, 2023

The Black Bay’s Back, Alright! Tudor Launches the New Black Bay 54 and more

We never know what to expect from Tudor at Watches & Wonders, and, well, they didn’t let us down in the surprise department this year, including with a new Black Bay model featuring a – get this – 37mm case. If you had called that one, you might be a psychic. But that was hardly it, we saw a new dial of the GMT, and the return of the Black Bay Burgundy, but with a METAS flavored surprise. The Black Bay’s Back – alright, let’s get into it. I recall being kind of blown away at Basel 2018 when Tudor launched the Black Bay 58. A 39mm Tudor dive watch! I couldn’t really believe it, as common as it might seem today. Well, today Tudor bested themselves once again with the Black Bay 54, a 37mm spiritual recreation of Tudor’s first dive watch, the 7922 from 1954. What you’ll find in the BB54 is a mashup of new (well, vintage-inspired new) and old, in, essentially, a scaled-down BB58. The case is said to have the proportions of the 7922 at 37mm x 11.24mm with 20mm lugs. Additionally, the bezel insert copies the layout of the 7922’s. The insert is black, and features numerals at intervals of 10 in a thin typeface, alternating with blocky rectangles that feel just a hair larger than they should be, but in keeping with the proportions of the original. It’s the kind of quirk that adds personality and quickly sets it apart from its slightly more contemporary siblings. I’m sure plenty of people will be excited to see that markings maintain the tone of the metal bel...

(Hands-On)The Genta IWC Ingenieur Era Returns With New Automatic 40 Worn & Wound
Rolex Milgauss Mar 27, 2023

(Hands-On)The Genta IWC Ingenieur Era Returns With New Automatic 40

The Ingenieur pivots back to its Gerald Genta design era this year with the introduction of a new collection that references the Ingenieur SL, reference 1832 from 1976. This is a move we (and likely, many of you) have anticipated since asking IWC CEO Chris Grainger about it back in 2021 on the Worn & Wound podcast (listen to that episode right here). The new Ingenieur collection welcomes three steel references that feature unique textured dials in silver, black, and aqua, and a full titanium reference with a gray dial. Each feature the new integrated bracelet design made famous by Genta in the ‘70s that we last saw in 2013 with the Ingenieur reference 3239. The new Inge takes a slightly softer approach and places an emphasis on ergonomics, and during our time with the watch in London last month, found it to be exactly that. This is the new Ingenieur Automatic 40 and yes, it still has a soft-iron inner case.  The Ingenieur has a rather interesting history that reaches back to 1955 with the reference 666, where it embraced a classic round shape and simple dial befitting of the era. It was launched around the same time as the Rolex Milgauss, and filled a similar role, making use of a soft-iron inner case to protect the movement from magnetic influence (up to 80,000 Amperes per meter). The name has roots in Old French and Medieval Latin, according to IWC, evolving from “ingeniator” or “one who makes or uses an engine”. The word Inegnieur evokes a similar vibe, and b...

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 3 SJX Watches
Mar 27, 2023

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 3

German independent Kudoke has carved out its own niche with a distinctive blend of English-inspired movements and Germanic attention-to-detail in its Handwerk line of watches. The latest addition to the line is the Kudoke 3, which largely sticks to the successful formula of prior models, but offers a twist in the form of a split-level dial and triple-scale hour display. Once known primarily for ostentatiously skeletonised Unitas calibers, such as the watch worn by Dominic Monaghan’s character in Last Looks, Kudoke hit the reset button in 2019 with Handwerk line comprised of the Kudoke 1 and 2. The collection introduced a more restrained design aesthetic and importantly, brand’s first proprietary movement. The Kudoke 3 continues down this path, but goes further in terms of creative design. The Handwerk collection (from left): Kudoke 1, Kudoke 2, and Kudoke 3 Initial thoughts As a fan of modern German (and historical English) watchmaking, I’ve been impressed with the brand’s work since the launch of the Kudoke 1. Like Habring² and Laine, Kudoke offers a compelling alternative to mass-produced luxury watches. The Kudoke 3 is a thoughtful and unconventional addition to the Dresden-based brand’s growing collection, offering a novel time display with three scales for the hours along with a three-armed hour hand. This triple-scale calls to mind the distinctive seconds register of the 1990s Daniel Roth tourbillon (recently reborn as the Tourbillon Souscription), but ...

Time+Tide’s ultimate Watches & Wonders 2023 release hub Time+Tide
Mar 27, 2023

Time+Tide’s ultimate Watches & Wonders 2023 release hub

Watches & Wonders is always a bit crazy, so we thought we’d summarise all the new releases thus far in one article. Easily navigate to the brand you’re looking for, or have a look at our favourite releases of the fair. We’ll be updating the list as new Introducing articles drop, so make sure you … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide’s ultimate Watches & Wonders 2023 release hub appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch Market Trends and Predictions: 2023 and Beyond Quill & Pad
Mar 27, 2023

Watch Market Trends and Predictions: 2023 and Beyond

Throughout 2022, there has been an economic shift globally. Thankfully, we have moved forward from the pandemic, however, we are now entering a period of higher interest rates in response to inflation. With this, consumer patterns will change and the watch industry will be affected. So Raman Kalra thought it might be interesting to look at historical watch trends and give his predictions on what shifts we will see on our wrists over the next 5-10 years.

The Rolex Explorer 40 showcases a new 40mm case Time+Tide
Rolex Explorer 40 showcases Mar 27, 2023

The Rolex Explorer 40 showcases a new 40mm case

The discontinuation of the 39mm Rolex Explorer was a surprise, and its 36mm replacement, though a return to original sizing, left many wondering what Rolex had up its sleeves. Naturally, the crown had a plan, and it has now come to light in form of the new Rolex Explorer 40. Its simplicity remains untarnished, offering … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Explorer 40 showcases a new 40mm case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex treats us with FIVE new Daytonas Time+Tide
Rolex treats us Mar 27, 2023

Rolex treats us with FIVE new Daytonas

Rolex has finally revealed their new releases for Watches & Wonders 2023, and the Cosmograph Daytona is certainly among the most anticipated. Without further ado, let’s get right into the new features and the five new models that mark the model’s 60th anniversary. The new features The biggest new upgrade to the Daytona line-up is … ContinuedThe post Rolex treats us with FIVE new Daytonas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy sports a Jubilee-style bracelet Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Mar 27, 2023

The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy sports a Jubilee-style bracelet

The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy fills the hole of the discontinued red Heritage Black Bay. It features modern Tudor features such as an in-house movement with a 70 hour power reserve. You can choose between their riveted bracelet, a Jubilee-style bracelet, or a rubber strap, all with the T-fit clasp system. Fears have … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy sports a Jubilee-style bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sophisticated bling: The Frederique Constant Highlife Sparkling Time+Tide
Frederique Constant Highlife Sparkling Mar 27, 2023

Sophisticated bling: The Frederique Constant Highlife Sparkling

The Frederique Constant Highlife Sparkling brings a touch of dawn to the night sky dial. Its 1970s style case grounds the use of diamonds, giving it a sporty flavour. It uses a quick-change strap system, to use with the bracelet and the included white rubber strap. For those who crave both the energy of an … ContinuedThe post Sophisticated bling: The Frederique Constant Highlife Sparkling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Frederique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture is a high-end flex from an accessible brand Time+Tide
Frederique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture Mar 27, 2023

The Frederique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture is a high-end flex from an accessible brand

The Frederique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture celebrates the brand’s 35th birthday. The calibre FC-980 returns as the brand’s flagship in-house movement. It’s a limited edition of 150 pieces. Frederique Constant is often referred to as an affordable luxury brand, which I believe does them somewhat of a disservice. While they do have a large range … ContinuedThe post The Frederique Constant Classics Tourbillon Manufacture is a high-end flex from an accessible brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns with a modern take on vintage style Time+Tide
Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns Mar 27, 2023

The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns with a modern take on vintage style

The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech marks a return for the 40mm Radiomir case. The use of Goldtech and a white dial offers a modern and sophisticated take on the vintage-inspired watch. It’s also the thinnest watch in Panerai’s current lineup, at a cuff-friendly 10.15mm. This seems to be the year of the Radiomir for Panerai, … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns with a modern take on vintage style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Chopard Happy Sport 25mm becomes the smallest member of the collection Time+Tide
Chopard Happy Sport 25mm becomes Mar 27, 2023

The Chopard Happy Sport 25mm becomes the smallest member of the collection

The Chopard Happy Sport 25mm is the smallest of its collection so far. The dancing diamonds are protected by a thin gold frame. Four references are available, with options for diamond set bezels and double-tour leather straps. It’s crazy to consider that it was only 30 years ago that diamonds first appeared on a steel … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Happy Sport 25mm becomes the smallest member of the collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni is a prototype-inspired novelty Time+Tide
Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni Mar 27, 2023

The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni is a prototype-inspired novelty

The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni is a modern take on a 1936 reissue. The recycled eSteel case is decorated with a Brunito PVD coating, emulating tarnish. The 8-day power reserve is advertised on the dial, and provided by the hand-winding calibre P.5000. With a lot of focus put onto the Radiomir series this Watches & … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni is a prototype-inspired novelty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer’s Carrera Glassbox Chronograph celebrates the 60th anniversary of the Carrera Time+Tide
TAG Heuer s Carrera Glassbox Chronograph Mar 27, 2023

TAG Heuer’s Carrera Glassbox Chronograph celebrates the 60th anniversary of the Carrera

With the flashiness of the Carrera Plasma and Aquaracer Full Gold, TAG Heuer takes a more subtle approach for their Watches & Wonders release celebrating the Carrera’s 60th anniversary. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox features a new case size, refreshed movement and a gorgeously vintage box-domed crystal that takes us back right to the … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer’s Carrera Glassbox Chronograph celebrates the 60th anniversary of the Carrera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Parmigiani Fleurier debuts a world-first with the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier debuts Mar 27, 2023

Parmigiani Fleurier debuts a world-first with the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante

Re-imagining a use case for their Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante calibre, Parmigiani Fleurier present the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante In classic Parmigiani style, it’s a minimal take on an elapsed time complication, negating the need for a timing bezel Powered by a modified GMT Rattrapante calibre dubbed the PF052 It’s safe to say that Parmigiani … ContinuedThe post Parmigiani Fleurier debuts a world-first with the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Revives the Radiomir California SJX Watches
Panerai Revives Mar 27, 2023

Panerai Revives the Radiomir California

Perhaps the most distinctive of all Radiomir designs, the “California” was nonetheless absent from Panerai’s catalogue for some time. Now it makes a comeback as the Radiomir California PAM01349. Essentially a cooler (and more expensive) version of the new Radiomir “Otto Giorni”, the PAM01349 preserves the signature features of the design, including the dial and blue hands, but works in a few concessions to modern tastes, including a smoked green finish for the dial as a scaled-down, 45 mm case. Initial thoughts The California has long been my favourite Radiomir so I am glad it is making a comeback. While it looks slightly vintage, the PAM01349 is clearly not a vintage reissue, which is a good thing. The combination of a green dial and aged case is an appealing one. However, the PAM01349 costs about 20% more than the Radiomir models with the same movement, a premium that isn’t grounded in any tangible features and thus hard to justify. Romans and Arabics The dial is classic “California” with Roman numerals on its top half and Arabic numbers on the lower half. Originally designed for legibility so each half of the dial is easily distinguishable from the other, the California dial was synonymous with the Radiomir. The PAM01349 preserves the original design, but the texture and colour are contemporary. Like most other recent releases, the dial has a grained surface and smoked finish, both in keeping with current tastes. The dial treatment gives the watch a vin...

The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface blends classic complications with modern execution Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde ... Mar 27, 2023

The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface blends classic complications with modern execution

The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface looks to the brand’s history for inspiration Combining a retrograde date and tourbillon, it’s the next in line of complicated Traditionnelle references, the 2162 R31 calibre awarded a Geneva Seal The Openface sapphire dial’s gold surfaces are guillochéd by hand Despite what the name suggests, Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle collection … ContinuedThe post The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface blends classic complications with modern execution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.