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Nicknaming Vintage Watches: Musings On Vanessa Redgrave’s Rolex 5513 Submariner With Explorer Dial In Clubhouse Chat Quill & Pad
Rolex 5513 Submariner Mar 6, 2021

Nicknaming Vintage Watches: Musings On Vanessa Redgrave’s Rolex 5513 Submariner With Explorer Dial In Clubhouse Chat

In early February, expert spotter Nick Gould noticed that Vanessa Redgrave was wearing a special watch during the filming of the movie 'Blowup': a very rare Rolex Submariner Reference 5513 with so-called Explorer dial. We felt that the topic deserved more discussion, though, so the team turned to the latest form of social media: Clubhouse. You can hear the recorded conversation about that and the general nicknaming of vintage watches here.

Hottest affordable watch:  the Tissot PRX Review Deployant
Tissot PRX Review DEPLOYANT - Mar 6, 2021

Hottest affordable watch: the Tissot PRX Review

The Tissot PRX is in a sweet spot of affordability and good looks. While the points mentioned, the lack of AR, misaligned seconds, uninteresting movement may deter some, the PRX is still a very convincing product. If anything, it has possibly the nicest looking case at this pricepoint from a mainstream brand today. It's rated at 100 m water resistance, but without a screwdown crown, it's best to use caution with submersible activities. Quartz is also refreshing for those sick and tired of inaccurate 6r35 movements or handwinding their 2801 based Hamiltons.

INTRODUCING: The new Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Mar 6, 2021

INTRODUCING: The new Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation

Neo-vintage? Vintage-inspired?  Take your pick with this new interpretation of the Alpinist. Personally, I love it, I’m still happily surfing on the vintage wave – somewhat more like a tsunami at times, and haven’t had my fill of nostalgia yet. Seiko gave us what we wanted in 2020, but there’s no stopping them in this … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time is a seriously luxurious travel watch Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Mar 6, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time is a seriously luxurious travel watch

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection represents sports watch pedigree through and through and the Dual Time is no exception. While the collection features everything from simple three-handed time-only watches all the way to tourbillons and perpetual calendars, arguably the most important complication for a sports watch is the GMT function. After all, what self-respecting professional … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time is a seriously luxurious travel watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How G-Shock is leading the pack on entry level collectables Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Mar 5, 2021

How G-Shock is leading the pack on entry level collectables

When it comes to watches and collectibility, the mind immediately gravitates to high-end manufacturers such as Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. After all, these are the watches that we see the rich and famous sporting on their wrists, and each brand limits their level of supply to the point where the number of watches … ContinuedThe post How G-Shock is leading the pack on entry level collectables appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sinn’s Submarine-Steel Dive Watch Gets a Patina Dial SJX Watches
Sinn s Submarine-Steel Dive Watch Mar 5, 2021

Sinn’s Submarine-Steel Dive Watch Gets a Patina Dial

Known for its utilitarian “tool” watches, Sinn’s latest is a variation on its bestselling dive watch. The U1 DS is a limited-edition rendition of the brand’s dive watch that’s best known for having a case made from the same steel alloy as German navy submarines. Limited to 500 pieces, the U1 DS features a dial that has been lapped to achieve a seemingly worn-out finish, whilst retaining the famed robustness that characterises the U1. The combination is a juxtaposition of an aged dial and a case that will likely never show any wear. Initial thoughts The U1 DS is a clear winner in my books. The dial’s battle-scarred look suits the submarine-inspired genesis of the U1, which has long had a military feel, despite not being a military-issue watch (though Sinn did made a special edition for a special-forces unit of the German military). Despite the new finish, the U1 retains its trademark legibility. The randomly-scratched texture does not detract from readability or the distinctive U1 dial design. Its signature block-shaped hands and hour markers remain prominent. Though it’s an uncommon look, Sinn has been using this randomly-textured finish frequently of late. The finish was first used in 2019 on the 356 Fliegerchronograph for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, and then last year on the EZM3.F.V. that was only sold in Japan. The patina finish remains rare, but not quite as rare as it seems to be. The Japan-only EZM3.F.V. Despite being a limited edition, the U...

Tudor Premieres Short Film About Orcas, Whales, and a Remote Norwegian Island SJX Watches
Tudor Premieres Short Film About Mar 5, 2021

Tudor Premieres Short Film About Orcas, Whales, and a Remote Norwegian Island

Continuing with a tradition established by its founder Hans Wilsdorf – who famously equipped Mercedes Gleitze with a Rolex Oyster when she became the first Englishwoman to swim the Channel – Tudor has cultivated partnerships with many sportsmen and women, brand ambassadors who prove the durability of its watches. The brand’s latest endeavour took it to Spildra, a remote island off Norway, where it supported the production of a documentary that delves into the lives of orcas and whales. The brainchild of underwater film director Jean-Charles Granjon, The Quest for Nature stars Morgan Bourc’his, a world-champion freediver who’s long been a Tudor ambassador. Mr Bourc’his sporting a Pelagos Despite being in the sea his entire professional life, Mr Bourc’his professes a regrettable lack of experience with large marine mammals. He both yearns to meet them and bemoans their declining reducing populations. The film marks Mr Bourc’his’ first extensive experience with these marine creatures, something he describes as a “human and technical adventure in collaboration with nature and subject to nature’s desires.” An orca – better known as a killer whale but belonging to the dolphin family Searching for giant mammals The team started shooting in January 2019, but the environment turned out to be less than ideal, resulting in little useable footage. Learning that inauspicious start, they made a comeback 10 months later, armed with more personnel and equipme...

Women’s History Month: 4 Fascinating Horological Stories About Women In Watchmaking Quill & Pad
Mar 4, 2021

Women’s History Month: 4 Fascinating Horological Stories About Women In Watchmaking

"The watch industry today would be nothing without women," Elizabeth Doerr notes as the majority of watchmaker benches in watch factories are “manned” by women. Women were also responsible for the very first wristwatches; the world's first doctorate in horology went to a woman (Dr. Rebecca Struthers); and the now-safe lume glowing on your watch came about thanks to the dangerous (and deadly) work of both Marie Curie and the Radium Girls.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG Heuer celebrate the Carrera in Chadstone and there’s a reason we love Rolex forums Time+Tide
TAG Heuer celebrate Mar 4, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG Heuer celebrate the Carrera in Chadstone and there’s a reason we love Rolex forums

Yet another regrettable effect of COVID is that, over the last twelve months, it’s stopped most of the watch community from experiencing timepieces in the metal. Thankfully, that’s starting to change in Australia as, with the pandemic increasingly under control, watch events are starting to happen once again. One of the first public events is … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG Heuer celebrate the Carrera in Chadstone and there’s a reason we love Rolex forums appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Special Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Special Edition Mar 4, 2021

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Special Edition

It doesn’t feel like that long ago since Lewis Hamilton became the most decorated F1 driver of all time, winning his seventh world championship in November after a COVID-disrupted but nevertheless enjoyable 2020 season. Now, with less than a month until the 2021 calendar kicks off in Bahrain, there is no shortage of things to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Erard Unveils an Affordable ‘Grand Feu’ Enamel Time-Only SJX Watches
Louis Erard Unveils Mar 4, 2021

Louis Erard Unveils an Affordable ‘Grand Feu’ Enamel Time-Only

Best known recently for its collaborations with independent watchmakers – the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter sold out in a matter of hours – Louis Erard has been gaining recognition for making the style of high-end watchmaking affordable. Continuing with that focus, the brand has just announced the Excellence Email Grand Feu, a time-only wristwatch with a traditional enamel dial in a striking ivory hue. The grand feu, or fired-in-an-oven, enamel dial is fairly difficult to manufacture, resulting in a rejection rate that’s often over half. As a result, such dials are usually only found in high-end watches. It’s Louis Erard’s first use of a fired enamel dial, but true to form, the brand has retained its usual pricing positioning with a retail price of under 4,000 Swiss francs. Initial thoughts Given the frequent enthusiast gripe that watch prices (or values) border on the absurd, it would seem that true value propositions are hard to come by. There are a few exceptions – Tudor, Longines, and a few independents for instance – with Louis Erard increasingly being one of them. The brand offers an honest product, often with one or two elements historically found only in haute horlogerie, for not so much money. The Excellence Email Grand Feu is exactly that. And the dial is particularly appealing in ivory, instead of the usual bright white that is the favoured colour for fired enamel. Notably, the dial is made by Donzé Cadrans, the well-known enamel dial maker ...

Citizen Introduces All-New Automatic Caliber 0200 SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces All-New Automatic Caliber Mar 4, 2021

Citizen Introduces All-New Automatic Caliber 0200

Having introduced the ultra-advanced quartz Caliber 0100 in 2019, Citizen is now turning to mechanical movements. Making its debut in the flagship The Citizen collection, the Caliber 0200 is a newly-developed automatic with all the technical features expected of a high-end modern movement, along with more elaborate decoration thanks to the input of Swiss movement specialist La Joux-Perret. Citizen’s first new mechanical since 2010, the Caliber 0200 elevates its mechanical watchmaking to a new level in both construction and aesthetics. Similarly, the first wristwatch equipped with the Caliber 0200 boasts a more sophisticated degree of finishing on its complex case and integrated bracelet. The Caliber 0200 Initial thoughts Going by the images, the Calibre 0200-equipped The Citizen is an impressive watch. And going by Citizen’s other high-end watches, this will almost surely look as good in real life as it does in photos. Measuring an elegant 40 mm by 10.9 mm, the case has complex surfaces and impeccable finishing, and also a distinctive look. Though some of the design elements do bring to mind other watches, it is original enough, which is a feat given the proliferation of integrated-bracelet designs today. But the highlight is the movement, which is perhaps best described as a high-end workhorse calibre. The construction and specs tick all the right boxes, and so does the finishing, which is superior to many watches – Swiss and Japanese – in the same price range. Th...

Study explores the psychological reasons for posting on Rolex forums. Here’s what it found… Time+Tide
Rolex forums Here’s what it Mar 4, 2021

Study explores the psychological reasons for posting on Rolex forums. Here’s what it found…

Let me pose a little thought experiment. How much have Rolex online forums cost the global economy in terms of wasted productivity in the workforce? How many hours are lost speculating over the Crown’s possible new releases, comparing advice on how to change an Oysterflex, or conducting snap polls on whether to buy the GMT … ContinuedThe post Study explores the psychological reasons for posting on Rolex forums. Here’s what it found… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Citizen Mechanical:  debuting a new caliber 0200. Hands-on review. Deployant
Citizen Mechanical debuting Mar 4, 2021

The Citizen Mechanical: debuting a new caliber 0200. Hands-on review.

Presenting full details and hands-on with The Citizen mechanical model features the newly-developed Caliber 0200 mechanical movement. This is a new mechanical movement, and the first to be developed by Citizen in-house since 2010, and the first developed in collaboration with their Swiss subsidiary Manufacture La Joux-Perret S. A. As we understand it, Citizen hasRead More

Rapper Bobby Shmurda is released from jail and celebrates by getting a Rolex Sky-Dweller Time+Tide
Rolex Sky-Dweller Rapper Bobby Shmurda Mar 3, 2021

Rapper Bobby Shmurda is released from jail and celebrates by getting a Rolex Sky-Dweller

Rapper Bobby Shmurda wasted no time after being released from a six-year prison stint to make sure that his wrist game was back on point. What did he first put on? An iced-out Rolex Sky-Dweller, of course. Bobby Shmurda, born Ackquille Jean Pollard, was jailed more than half a decade ago with several other members … ContinuedThe post Rapper Bobby Shmurda is released from jail and celebrates by getting a Rolex Sky-Dweller appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Market Watch: Vacheron Constantin Mercator Prototype Pièce Unique SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Mercator Prototype Pièce Unique Mar 2, 2021

Market Watch: Vacheron Constantin Mercator Prototype Pièce Unique

An unusual wristwatch with twin retrograde hands in the form of a compass, the Mercator was unveiled in 1994 for the 400th anniversary of the death of Gerardus Mercator (1512-1594). A pioneering cartographer famous for inventing the map projection that evolved into the world maps of today, Mercator was born in present-day Belgium, which is where the genesis for the Mercator wristwatch was formed. The Mercator wristwatch was unusual amongst watches of the 1990s, being one of the rare handful of classically styled watches with an unconventional time display. At the same time, the fanciest versions of the Mercator watches featured hand-made fired enamel dials, which were rare at the time. The entry-level versions, in contrast, had acid-etched brass dials sporting similar motifs. A tribute to the past The Mercator watch was the brainchild of Jean Genbrugge, an artisan who, along with his wife Lucie, specialises in miniature enamel painting. Mr Genbrugge is also a watchmaker, which led him to invent the Mercator retrograde mechanism, while also devising the map-pattern dial as in a nod to his homeland’s famous son. “I am a citizen of Antwerp like Mercator, and I have a great admiration for his scientific work,” recounts Mr Genbrugge, “When the 400th anniversary of Mercator’s passing took place in 1993, I visited the exhibition in honour of his life at the Mercator Museum in Sint-Niklaas.” “Being a sailor, I am a navigator myself,” explains Mr Genbrugge, “Which...

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged GMT Collection oozes robust elegance Time+Tide
Seiko Presage Sharp Edged GMT Mar 2, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged GMT Collection oozes robust elegance

The force is strong with Seiko and it’s clear they are not holding back this year with some fantastic new releases. The Sharp Edged Presage collection is known for its robust elegance, featuring eye-catching dials in highly scratch and water-resistant cases. Previously we all had a plethora of dials to admire in the time and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged GMT Collection oozes robust elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Roger Dubuis Debuts the Excalibur Spider 39 mm SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Debuts Mar 2, 2021

Roger Dubuis Debuts the Excalibur Spider 39 mm

Known for its bold, big, and skeletonised watches, Roger Dubuis is paring back its extravagant style – just slightly – with two smaller, 39 mm versions of the Excalibur Spider. Limited to 88 pieces in each guise, the Excalibur Spider 39 mm retains the brand’s signature Celtic-cross flying tourbillon and the open-worked case of the lightweight Spider series. In addition to the twin Spider models, the new 39 mm size also includes an edition created in collaboration with Italian tyre maker Pirelli, the Excalibur Spider Pirelli that’s limited to just 28 watches. Initial thoughts With the same aesthetic found on earlier Excalibur watches, which were either 45 mm or 47 mm, the new 39 mm models are practical rather than innovative. And the RD510SQ skeleton flying tourbillon movement already exists, found inside the 36 mm Excalibur watches for women. What’s new is the 39 mm case, which makes the Excalibur substantially more wearable. The new case is undoubtedly a commercial decision, since the line between watches for each gender gets increasingly fuzzy. The Excalibur Spider 39 mm Pirelli More women now want larger watches, while men sometimes revert to case sizes that are more old-school 20th century than 21st. During the online launch of the 39 mm models, Roger Dubuis chief executive Nicola Andreatta noted that the 36 mm Excalibur watches were a surprise hit amongst male clients in Japan, despite being marketed as ladies’ watches. The 39 mm Excalibur Spider fil...

The 5 most baller watches from our NOW buying guide including Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Hublot and Louis Vuitton Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Audemars Piguet Hublot Mar 2, 2021

The 5 most baller watches from our NOW buying guide including Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Hublot and Louis Vuitton

According to the Urban Dictionary, the definition of a baller is: “A person that makes shit happen. Without additional context, ‘baller’ typically is assumed to imply demonstrated ability in generating prodigious amounts of cash money, and/or a proficiency with creating frequent and mind-blowing sexual opportunities (note the non-gender specific reference, implying that ballers can be … ContinuedThe post The 5 most baller watches from our NOW buying guide including Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Hublot and Louis Vuitton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

2021 Panerai Submersible 42mm PAM00683 Review WatchAdvice
Panerai Submersible 42mm PAM00683 Review Mar 1, 2021

2021 Panerai Submersible 42mm PAM00683 Review

Pros: Smaller wrist sizes can now enjoy Panerai Adjusting time on the go is super easyThe rubber strap is comfortable on the wrist Cons: Some may appreciate an open case-backNo in-house movement Some may find the pricing to be expensive Overall Rating: 7.8/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8/10  Released back in 2019 during the SIHH convention, the Panerai Luminor Submersible 42 was a breath of fresh air for dive watch enthusiasts and watch lovers who didn’t want to wear oversized watches. Panerai’s flagship diver model is arguably the PAM1389, which measures at a staggering 47mm case size. PAM00683 In 2016, however, the brand decided to release their first small divers watch, the Panerai Submersible 682. This was a very simplistic timepiece with a date and sub-counter on a black dial featuring a stainless steel bezel. More importantly, the watch came in a much more wearable 42mm case size.  Fast-forward to 2019, Panerai released two different colourways for the Panerai Submersible 682, one of which is what we have for review today. The PAM00683 features much of the same characteristics that the 2016 Submersible 682 had, with the exception being new bezel colour, and more colour on the dial.  PAM00683 Case: The case that the PAM00683, or better known as Luminor Submersible 42 Black Ceramic, comes in is a 42mm stainless steel case with a steel bezel with ceramic black insert. It should be noted that the giant crown gua...

In-Depth: Mid-Century Movado Chronographs SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Mar 1, 2021

In-Depth: Mid-Century Movado Chronographs

Every time you read a story about the ocean, there’s a good chance you’ll see that it is “95% unexplored”, or “we know more about the surface of the moon than of the seafloor”. As most tropes go, they are as annoying as they are true, and in this case they’re also an apt metaphor for vintage watch knowledge. While the details of vintage Patek Philippe and Rolex have been mapped down to their going trains, numerous brands remain relatively uncharted – a Marianas Trench’s of knowledge awaiting exploration. Midcentury Movado chronographs lie squarely at those depths; let’s dive in. As we arrive at the door of our submersible, we must first acknowledge those who have assembled taxonomies of this scantly-explored abyss: the late Fritz van Osterhausen, author of The Movado History, and the excellent M95 chronograph reference the e-newsletter Rescapement published a few years ago. Using their ballast - no, I haven’t run out of nautical metaphors yet - we hope to fathom yet further. Today, we’ll peer into with what many consider the pinnacle of Movado collecting, its exceptionally-cased midcentury chronographs. History Until the 21st century, Swiss watch production was predominantly a cottage industry. Specialists manufactured the case, dial, or ebauche (movement blank), and peddled their wares to as many brands as possible. While final products were modified to brand specifications, family traits are easily discernible across marques that shared sup...

This tale of an octopus wrestler’s Rolex Explorer worth $126,000 will change the way you view your watch Time+Tide
Rolex Explorer worth $126,000 will Mar 1, 2021

This tale of an octopus wrestler’s Rolex Explorer worth $126,000 will change the way you view your watch

Question: How do you catch and wrestle a giant Pacific octopus? The answer, of course, is very, very carefully. That’s according to the Canadian Television Network who reported the extraordinary tale of a veteran octopus wrestler whose 1953 Rolex Explorer sold at a New York auction house last month for $126,000 USD. Bill Hook is … ContinuedThe post This tale of an octopus wrestler’s Rolex Explorer worth $126,000 will change the way you view your watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How Richard Mille’s new partnership with Ferrari is shaking up Formula One sponsorship Time+Tide
Richard Mille s new partnership Mar 1, 2021

How Richard Mille’s new partnership with Ferrari is shaking up Formula One sponsorship

As the 2021 season of Formula 1 revs up to get started, the drama and speculation around the 10 teams continues to grow with each passing day. With a newly introduced cost cap regulation, the way in which F1 teams spend their fat stacks of cash is under a harsh spotlight. But the way they … ContinuedThe post How Richard Mille’s new partnership with Ferrari is shaking up Formula One sponsorship appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Why I bought a quartz Grand Seiko SBGN007 as my first “good watch” Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGN007 as my first Feb 28, 2021

VIDEO: Why I bought a quartz Grand Seiko SBGN007 as my first “good watch”

Your first good watch is an important step in your watch collecting journey. It represents your first serious commitment to the hobby and probably the first time you spend an amount of money that most people would consider completely preposterous on a wristwatch. But because of that commitment, inevitably your first good watch will always … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Why I bought a quartz Grand Seiko SBGN007 as my first “good watch” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Britain runs the risk of losing another of its crown jewels – King George’s Breguet pocket watch Time+Tide
Breguet pocket watch Monarchists Feb 26, 2021

Britain runs the risk of losing another of its crown jewels – King George’s Breguet pocket watch

Monarchists in Britain have endured a tough time of late.  Just before coronavirus went literally viral, there was a right royal rumble as Prince Harry and Meghan quit the royal family. As if that wasn’t bad enough, 2021 now sees the royal family in danger of losing another of its crown jewels, the King George … ContinuedThe post Britain runs the risk of losing another of its crown jewels – King George’s Breguet pocket watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.