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Found a Patek or a Daytona at a suspiciously low price? It could be stolen stock from Amsterdam Vintage Watches. Check the serial numbers here… Time+Tide
Oct 28, 2020

Found a Patek or a Daytona at a suspiciously low price? It could be stolen stock from Amsterdam Vintage Watches. Check the serial numbers here…

The luxury watch industry is only growing around the world, and with many online publishers covering the world of horology extensively it has never been easier to learn about timepieces, their value, and the level of demand. One thing I do truly love about this hobby is there is a clear sense of community, a … ContinuedThe post Found a Patek or a Daytona at a suspiciously low price? It could be stolen stock from Amsterdam Vintage Watches. Check the serial numbers here… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rockstars rocking vintage watches, Part 1 – The yellow gold Patek Philippe Edition Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Edition Celebrity watch spotting Oct 28, 2020

Rockstars rocking vintage watches, Part 1 – The yellow gold Patek Philippe Edition

Celebrity watch spotting is a pastime of watch enthusiasts - there is something more genuine about a watch in the wild on a famous wrist than a planted timepiece as part of a contractual ambassadorship. While many opt for flashy precious metal and gemstone-covered watches to convey a sense of status and success that ties … ContinuedThe post Rockstars rocking vintage watches, Part 1 – The yellow gold Patek Philippe Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How did this Rolex get past QA? Revisiting the suspicious case of the ‘Double 9’ Air-King… Time+Tide
Rolex get past QA? Revisiting Oct 27, 2020

How did this Rolex get past QA? Revisiting the suspicious case of the ‘Double 9’ Air-King…

Editor’s note: It seems to be yet another sub-sub-sub-culture within the watch collecting community. And that is the people that get some kind of a kick out of Rolex imperfections. I suppose, in lots of ways, it makes sense. They are so rare as to be freaks of nature. Recently, a new Oyster Perpetual model … ContinuedThe post How did this Rolex get past QA? Revisiting the suspicious case of the ‘Double 9’ Air-King… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo blue dial in satin polished steel the best steel sports watch of 2020? Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo blue dial Oct 27, 2020

HANDS-ON: Is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo blue dial in satin polished steel the best steel sports watch of 2020?

Editor’s note: We’ve had quite the flurry of Bulgari lately, mostly in celebration of the brand’s 2020 collection. And, increasingly, the pinion of the collection is emerging as this model right here. Make no mistake, it doesn’t rightly deserve to be. It’s a simple dial variation away from the black lacquer dial variation that the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo blue dial in satin polished steel the best steel sports watch of 2020? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe online sales have not kicked in the crisis, and 3 other key takeaways from Eric Ku’s lecture for the HSNY Time+Tide
Patek Philippe online sales have not Oct 26, 2020

Patek Philippe online sales have not kicked in the crisis, and 3 other key takeaways from Eric Ku’s lecture for the HSNY

With the ongoing pandemic, everything and everyone has had to adopt new means and methods of connecting and gathering. Each month the Horological Society of New York – who recently visited Melbourne to give watchmaking classes – would have in-person lectures that take a deep dive into the fascinating world of horology and the watch … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe online sales have not kicked in the crisis, and 3 other key takeaways from Eric Ku’s lecture for the HSNY appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chopard Introduces the Mille Miglia 2020 Race Edition SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Oct 26, 2020

Chopard Introduces the Mille Miglia 2020 Race Edition

Watchmaker and jeweller Chopard has a long been associated with classic cars, owing to its co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, who is a passionate collector of vintage automobiles. As a result, Chopard has been a sponsor of the Mille Miglia classic-car rally since 1988 – with Mr Scheufele himself taking part each year. Chopard has released a commemorative edition for each Mille Miglia since, this year’s Mille Miglia 2020 Race Edition is very much in the style of the classic Mille Miglia edition, but more restrained with a black diamond-like carbon (DLC) coated steel case – or dressed up with a rose-gold bezel. Racing champion Jacky Ickx with the new Mille Miglia chronograph Initial thoughts Though based on the standard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph, the 2020 edition has been given an all-black treatment, which Chopard has also recently applied to its L.U.C ultra-thin dress watch. The DLC-coated case is matched with a dial in muted colours that’s also been sandblasted for a matte, grained finish, as have the hands, which results in a coherent, clean look. This year’s version feels more contemporary than many earlier editions of the Mille Miglia chronograph, many of which were dressed in bright, racing colours like green or red. And its dark case finish also makes it feel a little smaller, which is helpful for a relatively large watch. But while the watch looks good and is a limited edition, it’s priced a little steeply at US$6,700 in steel (and an extra...

The Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 is the less expensive version of the $10k Seiko Prospex SLA037J1 Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 Oct 26, 2020

The Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 is the less expensive version of the $10k Seiko Prospex SLA037J1

For us, there was only one effective way to rate and review the luxurious Seiko Challenger diver, the $9995AUD Seiko Prospex SLA037J1, a re-creation of Seiko’s first dive watch, the 62MAS, launched in 1965. And that was to put it up against a brand nobody baulks at spending that kind of money for a diver: … ContinuedThe post The Seiko Prospex SLA043J1 is the less expensive version of the $10k Seiko Prospex SLA037J1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Throwback Sundays: Six Luxury Sports Watches with the Chronograph Complication, From Our Archives Deployant
Oct 25, 2020

Throwback Sundays: Six Luxury Sports Watches with the Chronograph Complication, From Our Archives

Luxury sports watches have seemed to undergo a revival in recent years, with the introduction of numerous interpretations from multiple watch manufacturers.  More recently, manufacturers have went beyond just making luxury sports watches. In this month alone, we have seen two manufacturers launching luxury sports watches with the chronograph function. Perhaps this is the organicRead More

Hermès New Watches For 2020 Featuring The Daringly Different Aaaargh! (Video) Quill & Pad
Hermes Oct 25, 2020

Hermès New Watches For 2020 Featuring The Daringly Different Aaaargh! (Video)

Our friends at The Watches TV had a chance to see the Hermès watches for 2020 – and they (and we) were in luck to also hear from La Montre Hermès CEO Laurent Dordet. Host Marc André Deschoux goes through the new Hermès pieces one by one, beginning with the 2020 L’Heure de la Lune, the first version of which launched in 2019, which he thinks is "A super-hot watch.” Things go seriously wacky from there.

IN-DEPTH: The  TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, powered by a movement from the present, with an all-time classic design from the past Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Collection powered Oct 25, 2020

IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, powered by a movement from the present, with an all-time classic design from the past

As a watch journalist in 2020, based in Europe under the draconian rule of the pandemic, it’s easy to lose perspective and here is a particular example. Despite my missionary preachings and personal taste, 38-39 millimetres is not the Goldilocks size for everyone. So, with this self-realisation in mind, the  TAG Heuer Carrera Collection is … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, powered by a movement from the present, with an all-time classic design from the past appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ressence Type 2A/2G: Is This Electronic-Mechanical Hybrid Timepiece The Future Of Mechanical Watchmaking? Quill & Pad
Ressence Type 2A/2G Oct 24, 2020

Ressence Type 2A/2G: Is This Electronic-Mechanical Hybrid Timepiece The Future Of Mechanical Watchmaking?

With concept cars, it is typical for most of the features on the prototype to be weeded out once the design is optimized for manufacturing. The electronical-mechanical Ressence Type 2 is the complete opposite, Joshua Munchow says, as it has retained pretty much every single thing the concept watch of 2018 offered and has only improved in function. Is the Ressence Type 2 the future of mechanical watches?

Up Close: S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Oct 24, 2020

Up Close: S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin

Finnish independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva is famous for his frowning moon “face”, an instantly recognisable emblem of contemporary watchmaking. But he also makes more affordable watches under the S.U.F. Helsinki label, which recently launched the S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin, a cartoon watch that is seriously good. Created to celebrate the 75th anniversary of Moomin, a series of books and comics by Finnish author Tove Jansson, the Moomin watch is based on the S.U.F. 180, a fuss-free three-hander that’s inspired by vintage military-issue watches, but dressed up with a three-layer dial hand painted in multiple shades of Super-Luminova. Even in moderately low light, the dial glows in technicolor glory – that alone is worth the modest price of admission. Initial thoughts The S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin is different and compelling, but easy to wear and put together notably well. Specifically, the dial and case are executed to a high level. The dial is three layers, and then hand finished and hand painted, while the case is a slim but robust construction that is finished skilfully. And the Moomin watch retailed for €5,000, or about US$5,900 – making it excellent value for money. The quality and detail of the dial – think of it as affordable metiers d’art – is especially outstanding for the price. Admittedly, Moomin has no particular resonance for me – and won’t for anyone who isn’t a fan of the comic – but the dial in itself is appealing. It’s qu...

MY YEAR WITH: The Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000GD-9. Did the gold eventually get old? Time+Tide
Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000GD-9 Oct 24, 2020

MY YEAR WITH: The Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000GD-9. Did the gold eventually get old?

Never, in my life, have I had more comments on my watch. From friends. From strangers. No one can help but notice my full metal gold-tone G-Shock (the Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000 variant GD-9). But if you’ve met me, or follow me on Instagram, you’ll likely know that I tend to lean towards simple, … ContinuedThe post MY YEAR WITH: The Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000GD-9. Did the gold eventually get old? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Introduces the Meca-10 Clock SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Oct 23, 2020

Hublot Introduces the Meca-10 Clock

Time-only but visually and mechanically interesting, the Hublot Meca-10 wristwatch has a skeleton movement inspired by Meccano, the children’s construction toy. Now it’s been blown up – by a multiple of four – to create the Meca-10 Clock. Created in collaboration with Swiss clockmaker L’Epée, best known for the clocks it has made for MB&F; and Chanel, the Meca-10 Clock retains all of the key features of its wristwatch counterpart, namely the skeletonised construction and lengthy, 10-day running time. The clock and the watch that inspired it Initial thoughts Compared to the prolific, sci-fi clocks of MB&F;, the Meca-10 is more traditional. But it sets itself apart technically with its purpose-built, 10-day movement. In contrast, clocks by other brands express themselves in terms of case architecture, and mostly rely on the same the L’Epée 8-day movement. The Meca-10 has a straightforward, square case that resembles the typical Hublot Big Bang. The highlight is the movement, which originated in Hublot’s own movement development department led by Matthias Buttet, the brand’s resident technical guru, and subsequently built by L’Epee. The result is a clock that is legible and mechanically interesting, just like the Meca-10 wristwatch, giving the clock a similar sort of appeal. But the Meca-10 clock is surprisingly expensive, starting at US$47,400 for the steel version. That can be justified to a degree by the unique movement, but it’s still twice the pric...

Watchmaking: A Primer on Frosting by a Watchmaker SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Masahiro Kikuno Oct 23, 2020

Watchmaking: A Primer on Frosting by a Watchmaker

Fine finishing in high-end watchmaking automatically brings to mind polished bevels, black-polished steel, Cotes de Geneve, blueing, and even perlage. But less thought is given to frosting, even though it is prominent in the grandest of timepieces made by leading independent watchmakers. Put simply, frosting is the treatment of a metal to create an uneven, pitted surface. A beautifully rough finish, frosting dulls the appearance of the component it is applied to. Many brands rely on the technique for decoration, but often in strikingly different forms. Akrivia, Greubel Forsey, Masahiro Kikuno, and Roger W. Smith are all known for their frosted finishes, but each differs from the other in technique and aesthetic effect. The frosted bridges on the front of the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Heroes and sidekicks When it comes to finishing methods in horology, I like to separate them into two categories: heroes and sidekicks. The sidekicks – such as perlage, graining, and of course frosting – are the methods that help the heroes stand out. Do not think any less of the sidekicks because without them, the heroes would not get the attention they deserve. The heroes are the methods that make you wonder: “This is beautiful – how did they do that?” Black polishing, blueing and engraving are just a few of them. As in the comic books, heroes and sidekicks work together to make each other look good. But as is frequently the case in fiction, sidekicks are often forgotten. Take fo...

VIDEO: Finally…! The Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel with blue dial captured in glorious high definition here Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel Oct 22, 2020

VIDEO: Finally…! The Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel with blue dial captured in glorious high definition here

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo has seen the update it was waiting for this year, with the announcement in January that it was going to be produced in steel. The months since that announcement have felt both very slow and very fast at the same time, and some may have missed that the Bulgari Octo Finissimo … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Finally…! The Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel with blue dial captured in glorious high definition here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox: Sounds Traveling Through Water Like Whale Song Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox Sounds Oct 22, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox: Sounds Traveling Through Water Like Whale Song

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox doesn’t just sound as good below water as it does above, it sounds even better! While many of the recent Memovox models have been unashamedly contemporized, the Polaris Mariner Memovox is a relatively faithful tribute to the original 1965 Polaris. And it sounds as charming as the original, but better in every way.

Watch, out! The Cartiers that might cost a career Time+Tide
Cartier s Oct 22, 2020

Watch, out! The Cartiers that might cost a career

What would you think if the boss handed out a stack of Cartier watches to reward you for your efforts this year? We’d say that sounds like a pretty great place to work. (And, yes, this story is a thinly veiled hint to T+T boss, Andrew, as he plans this year’s Christmas bonuses) ((Dream on, … ContinuedThe post Watch, out! The Cartiers that might cost a career appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model Time+Tide
Massena Lab MB&F; Oct 22, 2020

Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model

In Scandinavia we have a traditional saying: all good things come in threes. And, boy, does this apply to clocks in 2020. First, the Hodinkee table clock that broke the internet and brutally maimed the comments section, then the futuristic T-Rex from Massena LAB, MB&F; and L’Epée. And here comes lucky number three – the … ContinuedThe post Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fugue Introduces the Fiction One SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Oct 22, 2020

Fugue Introduces the Fiction One

Founded just three years ago, Fugue got its start with a watch featuring a modular case with interchangeable lugs. The brand’s second model is altogether more interesting, the Fiction One. Powered by an automatic Sellita movement, the Fiction One has an intriguing mystery dial – the hands appear to be floating over its surface with no connection to the central axis. Available for pre-order on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter until end October, the Fiction One is available in two dial variations, white and smoked grey. And it is affordable, with a price of €350, or about US$420. [Update December 10, 2020: The original Kickstarter campaign for the watch did not meet its target, but Fugue is doing it a second time, offering the watch at a slightly lower price, as well as a smaller minimum quantity. The new campaign closes January 8, 2021.] Initial thoughts “Microbrands” tend to capitalise on designs that are the flavour of the day, reusing classic sports-watch designs for affordable watches. So amidst its crowdfunded peers, the Fiction One is refreshing. That said, the mystery time display is an old invention, dating to early 19th century when it was invented by French magician Jean-Eugène Robert Houdin.And in the mid 20th century, the Galaxy watch with mystery hands was produced by several brands, most notably LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and Longines. Fugue takes inspiration from those wristwatches, successfully reinterpreting the idea to create something mod...

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Liberty SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Oct 22, 2020

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Liberty

Just days after unveiling the Lupin the Third edition inspired by a Japanese anime series, Zenith has rolled out a limited edition for countries on the other side of the world. The Chronomaster Revival Liberty is similarly based on the El Primero A384, but dressed in red, white, and blue. Initial thoughts Zenith has released several limited edition A384s this year, which can feel a bit too frequent. But to the brand’s credit the editions have all been appealing, and the El Primero in general remains a well-priced chronograph. The Chronomaster Revival Liberty is a good looking watch that retains the 1970s spirit of the A384 while giving it a totally new colour. The tricolour combination brings to mind the American flag, but it is an attractive combination that’s helped by details like the whimsical candy-cane central seconds hand. Gradient blue The key element that sets this A384 edition apart from the others is the dial, which is finished in a matte, graduated blue that darkens towards the edges. The smoked or fumé finish is popular today, but not especially common at Zenith. It’s matched with the red and white striped seconds hand, as well as a red-on-white date disc. The rest of the watch is stock A384, which means it remains true to the 1969 original in size and finish. It’s 37 mm in diameter and finished with radial brushing on its top face, just like the original. And inside is the El Primero 400 movement. Key facts and price Zenith Chronomaster Revival Li...

Are high-value vintage watches pandemic-proof? The auction market results from 2020 say yes… Time+Tide
Oct 22, 2020

Are high-value vintage watches pandemic-proof? The auction market results from 2020 say yes…

This year has been remarkable in many ways. I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve said to myself, “Well, I never thought I’d see that happen in my lifetime.” Despite these surprises, the watch industry has demonstrated a remarkable stability. Sure, we lost a few trade shows. But there was also a regular flow … ContinuedThe post Are high-value vintage watches pandemic-proof? The auction market results from 2020 say yes… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium time-only – a summer-fresh take on a ’90s lightweight classic, still a winning formula, still fresh Time+Tide
Bulgari Aluminium time-only – Oct 21, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium time-only – a summer-fresh take on a ’90s lightweight classic, still a winning formula, still fresh

The strangest feeling is to be had when you first put on the Bulgari Aluminium time-only - if you actually get it on in the first place. Holding it makes you do a double take and shift it from left to right hand as if to check your own function as a makeshift human set of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium time-only – a summer-fresh take on a ’90s lightweight classic, still a winning formula, still fresh appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

If you missed out on the Sydney-based WatchFest 2020, prepare for SOMO (the Sadness Of Missing Out) Time+Tide
Oct 21, 2020

If you missed out on the Sydney-based WatchFest 2020, prepare for SOMO (the Sadness Of Missing Out)

Against all odds. That was spirit of the conversation I had with Paxton Wong a couple of weeks ago, when we were discussing what he had planned for WatchFest 2020. The COVID-19 pandemic wasn’t a reason to cancel the event this year, it was the reason it had to go ahead. Not just because Paxton … ContinuedThe post If you missed out on the Sydney-based WatchFest 2020, prepare for SOMO (the Sadness Of Missing Out) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro Time+Tide
Oct 21, 2020

Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro

Watchmaking is a game of microns and millimetres. The movements powering wristwatches are effectively a tiny city of gears and levers, that when blown up to a larger scale, become a chronometric Atlantis waiting to be explored and appreciated. One of the first things people notice when looking at a dial of a watch is … ContinuedThe post Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dubai Watch Week 2020 Goes Online SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey  Aline Sylla-Walbaum Christie’s Luxury Oct 20, 2020

Dubai Watch Week 2020 Goes Online

Having taken place in Dubai and London since 2015, Dubai Watch Week (DWW) is now going online. Organised by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the largest watch retailer in the Middle East, DWW was traditionally a watch fair catered to consumers and collectors that was a platform for education as well as new product launches. Despite the pandemic, DWW is going ahead as much as is reasonably feasible. “Our objective of uniting the watch community and providing an educational platform is at the forefront of what we hope to achieve via this experience,” explains Hind Seddiqi, Director General of Dubai Watch Week. A scene from an earlier DWW that took place in the Dubai International Financial Centre This year the event takes the form of four panel discussions that will be broadcast live online. The panels will cover familiar topics like the grey market for luxury watches, but also the more intriguing: the October 26 session is about “conspiracy and authenticity and whether the heart of the luxury industry beats in an organic market or is wound-up and coerced into ticking by specific entities”. Representing the breadth of the watch industry, the panellists ranging from auctioneers to entrepreneurs to watchmakers. Amongst the participants are Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie., Stephen Forsey of Greubel Forsey, Aline Sylla-Walbaum, Christie’s Luxury department head, as well as Chief Strategy and Business Development Officer of Seddiqi Holding Christophe Nicaise. And it also ...

Massena Lab Introduces the Uni-Racer Chronograph SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduces Oct 20, 2020

Massena Lab Introduces the Uni-Racer Chronograph

Having gotten its start by collaborating with independent watchmakers like Habring2, Massena Lab has just unveiled the first watch of its own brand, the Uni-Racer. A vintage-style wristwatch modelled on the Universal Genève Uni-Compax “Big Eye” chronograph of the 1960s, the Uni-Racer features several details that will appeal to enthusiasts, while having an affordable price tag of just under US$3,500. Initial thoughts Like all other remakes of vintage watches, the Uni-Racer reproduces the look of its vintage inspiration, while enlarging everything – the case is 39 mm compared to 37 mm for the original – to suit modern tastes. But unlike most other remakes, the Uni-Racer attends to the details that only a keen-eyed collector would appreciate, which is hardly a surprise since Massena Lab founder William Rohr is a longtime watch collector himself (and probably best known as the former general manager of watch forum Timezone.com). Features like the hand-wind movement and vintage-style buckle indicate the attention to detail in its conception. But there are also the less obvious elements, like the tiny, engraved logo on the crystal and the Massena Lab emblem that resembles an inverted Universal Genève logo. In fact, Massena Lab says it “interviewed former Universal Genève employees and suppliers to confirm original details and aesthetics”. The achievement of the Uni-Racer is not a novel design, but the careful curation of details that give the watch an authentic...

INTRODUCING: Massena LAB Uni-Racer, the first in-house production from Massena LAB, with a fresh take on vintage chronograph perfection Time+Tide
Massena Lab Uni-Racer Oct 20, 2020

INTRODUCING: Massena LAB Uni-Racer, the first in-house production from Massena LAB, with a fresh take on vintage chronograph perfection

From the secret lab of William Massena we have come to expect the unexpected. The LAB has a short but exciting history of sharp collaborations with a disruptive edge, exhibiting a wide scope of taste and style. This exciting new model is a case in point, with the last public project being a brilliant vintage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Massena LAB Uni-Racer, the first in-house production from Massena LAB, with a fresh take on vintage chronograph perfection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.