Hodinkee
H. Moser & Cie Made A Streamliner Perpetual Calendar
People will surely have a normal reaction to that date window.
Results for Antoine Norbert de Patek
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda PF Collection
When I spoke with Parmigiani chief executive Guido Terreni earlier this year, he described his plans for the brand’s product as having a “new direction for design, which is less ostentatious”, adding that Parmigiani will ” go back to the craft and excellence of the early days… with an eye on the world of today.” With the new Tonda PF collection launched to mark Parmigiani’s 25th anniversary, Mr Terreni appears to have pulled it off. Made up of four watches – ranging from a time-only to a pricey split-seconds – the Tonda PF is a synthesis of Parmigiani’s recent integrated-bracelet sports watch and its earlier Toric timepieces that were classical and Breguet inspired. The result is a sleek case and integrated bracelet matched with a refined yet minimalist guilloche dial featuring solid-gold hands and indices. Initial thoughts In a review two months ago, I wrote that liked the Tonda GT sports watch, though I thought the dial could be done better in several ways. The new Tonda PF does exactly that. It keeps everything that was good with the Tonda GT and enhances the rest. The dial has been stripped of superfluous elements while gaining a barleycorn engine turning. In fact, the dial is almost Moser-ish in its restraint, with the only marking being a small “PF” logo, which is made of solid 18k gold. And the upgrades in materials continue with the case, with all the steel model getting a knurled platinum bezel. And the movements have been enhanced. The...
SJX Watches
Bulgari Revives the Gerald Genta Retro Disney Mickey Mouse
Having tested the market with a handful of Gerald Genta-branded limited editions, Bulgari has just revealed during Geneva Watch Days 2021 that the Genta name will be revived. And the inaugural model for that venture is the Gerald Genta Arena Retrograde Mickey Mouse, a Disney-themed watch that harks back to the 1990s Fantasy watches of Gerald Genta. Initial thoughts The commercial opportunity with the Gerald Genta name has been obvious for several years, given the enduring popularity of a narrow set of his designs, namely the 1970s sports watches like the Royal Oak and the later Fantasy watches with Disney characters, all of which sell for handsome sums on the secondary market. While all the 1970s sports watch belong to the brands that Genta designed them for, Bulgari does have the Octo, which was created long after Genta himself left the brand. And now Bulgari has resurrected the Arena Retro Mickey Mouse. Like the Octo, the Arena case was created after Genta departed the namesake company when Bulgari acquired it, but the new Mickey Mouse Retro successfully channels the spirit of the 1990s originals in style and complication. And in terms of mechanics, it’s also more sophisticated than the originals, in that it is powered by a variant of the in-house Bulgari BVL 191 “Solotempo” calibre, instead of the ETA movements found in the originals. The Mickey Mouse reissue, however, does come at a steepish price of about US$17,500. That’s slightly more than the most desirab...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Upcycle made from recycled plastic
According to UN Environment, every year as many as 13 million tonnes of plastic leak into the oceans – which is the equivalent of a truck-load every minute. With only 9% of all plastic produced thought to have been recycled, and various aquatic animals suffering dearly as a result, there is a clear need for … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Upcycle made from recycled plastic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Unveils the GMT Earth Final Edition Titanium
The GMT and tourbillon have long been a favourite combination at Greubel Forsey, but the watchmaker is bringing the combo to an end – at least in its current form – with the GMT Earth Final Edition. Greubel Forsey (GF) is closing the model’s run with a version in titanium, matched with an all-black palette, giving it a look and feel that’s sportier than the earlier GMT Earth models, which were primarily cased in precious metals. Initial thoughts GF has offered a variety of models with a GMT complication, with each having being iterated several times in small runs. But the GMT Earth has always stood out for its simplicity – compared with the model boasting twin double-axis tourbillons for instance – yet it packs in all the defining features of the brand’s travel-time watch, such as a fully-visible rotating globe that indicates day or night around the world and of course the 24-second, inclined tourbillon. That makes it ideal for someone who wants the essence of a GF travel watch in a simple (relatively speaking) package. And the GMT Earth Final Edition the coolest looking of the bunch, with a dark dial that goes well with the greyish titanium case. It’s a good look that’s gives the watch a more edgy, futuristic design, setting it apart from the typical GF. And the darker colours should leave the 45.5 mm case appearing smaller. Unlike other ultra high-end sport(y) watches, such as those from Richard Mille, GF is slightly restrained in terms of aesthetic...
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar
After the Streamliner made its debut in chronograph form last year, H. Moser & Cie. has just grown the line of luxury-sports watches to include the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar. As is typical of Moser’s house style, the new perpetual calendar is streamlined in design and presentation, with the dial indicating the date and month while remaining minimalist, avoiding sub-dials entirely. The inaugural version of the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar gets a black fumè dial, giving the watch a subtle palette that’s fitting for its minimalist aesthetic. Notably, the monochromatic, shades-of-grey livery also harks back to the limited edition chronograph that was the opening model of the collection. Initial thoughts Compared to the two earlier Streamliner models – chronograph and time-only respectively – the latest is the most representative of Moser because of the ingenious movement within. A movement that made Moser’s reputation when it was resurrected in 2005, the calibre is one of the few that truly reimagines the perpetual calendar. While the Streamliner chronograph has an equally ingenious movement, the perpetual calendar movement is Moser’s own, which makes it that much more special. While appearing similar to the other versions of the Streamliner, the Perpetual Calendar differs in a few respects, which makes it stand out against its siblings in the Streamliner range, and more appealing for that reason. The design is slightly more nuanced, possessing details l...
Time+Tide
My six favourite watches from the Couture watch and jewellery show in Las Vegas
I know I have been a part of the Time+Tide team for over a year now, but this past week in Las Vegas it really hit me that I am a full-fledged member of this industry. Joining Time+Tide during the pandemic, I have spent the majority of my days confined to my home office writing … ContinuedThe post My six favourite watches from the Couture watch and jewellery show in Las Vegas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Exhibition: Two Decades of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch in Singapore
Modelled on a navigation instrument of the second world war, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch has since become the archetypal modern-day aviator’s watch for the Schaffhausen watchmaker – and reputedly a favourite of Formula 1 champ Lewis Hamilton. As the Big Pilot approaches its 20th anniversary – the original ref. 5002 was introduced in 2002 – IWC is staging an exhibition dedicated to its oversized pilot’s watch in Singapore. The exhibition will showcase 31 Big Pilots from the IWC Museum, including the legendary and quirky Big Pilot’s Watch Markus Bühler “Turbine” ref. 5003 (stay tuned for a few highlights from the exhibition, including the Bühler). The exhibition is open to the public daily from September 9-12, but registration is required for entry. Update September 7, 2021: Registration is closed as the exhibition has reached the maximum capacity allowed by government guidelines, as a result walk-in visitors cannot be admitted. The watch that started it all, a 1940s Beobachtungsuhr, or “navigator’s watch”, made for the German Air Force Exhibition details The Big Pilot Exhibition Design Orchard 250 Orchard Road Singapore 238905 September 9-12, 2021 12 pm – 9 pm on weekdays, and 11 am – 9 pm weekends Entry is free, but registration is required on IWC.com. Update September 7, 2021: All pre-registration tickets have been taken up. Walk-ins will be accepted on a first-come- first-served basis, but subject to venue capacity. This was brought to y...
Quill & Pad
Breitling And Bentley Part Ways, But How Will They Move On? A Look At The Past And Possible Futures
After nearly 20 years, Breitling and Bentley are parting ways. What started in 2002 when Breitling designed the dashboard clock of the Continental GT and was last renewed in 2018 is now coming to an end. Martin Green takes a look at the good and bad watches having emerged from this long partnership and speculates heavily on the future.
Time+Tide
Digital rights: The six coolest G-Shocks of 2021 (so far…)
G-Shocks have become an integral part of pop culture and are a testament to Casio reinventing the essence of digital cool, year after year. Fashions may ebb and flow, but they still come up on top, and 2021 has once again been a year for strong hits. Hell, I’ve even bought two of them myself! … ContinuedThe post Digital rights: The six coolest G-Shocks of 2021 (so far…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Musings: the new Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black
The watch looks very attractive despite its all black color. The spinning dial with all that diamonds and the contrasting satin-polished ceramic surfaces make for a highly reflective timepiece. Subtle bling if one were to term it. Priced at USD 27’300, the limited edition to 200 piece collaboration piece is expected to be highly collectible especially in Japan, where the artist Takashi Murakami hails from and where Hublot has a super fan base.
Time+Tide
Introducing: Grand Seiko’s time only trio of limited edition green machines
There is an appeal to a time only watch that is undeniable. The ability to pick it up at a moment’s notice, simply set the time and go, brings a sense of horological fresh air to what at times seems like too complicated a life. Add to that a manual wound movement, which hearkens back … ContinuedThe post Introducing: Grand Seiko’s time only trio of limited edition green machines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Go Green With This Limited Edition Oris
... and help the local communities of Africa's Okavango Delta, too.
Quill & Pad
Hermès Arceau The Three Graces: A Giraffe In A Dial-Sized Savannah
The Arceau model has become the canvas of choice for Hermès to express itself in more artistic ways. Over the years, this has resulted in tantalizing creations, each surprising in its own right. This is also true of Hermès’s latest model, the unexpected Arceau The Three Graces.
Time+Tide
What Charlie Watts from The Rolling Stones can teach you about wearing a watch
Everyone knows Charlie Watts, who died last week, was the most dapper member of The Rolling Stones. If he wasn’t banging the skins onstage, the mild-mannered drummer was always immaculately turned out in Savile Row’s finest threads. Watts admitted to having more that 200 suits at his London home alone, many of which were specifically … ContinuedThe post What Charlie Watts from The Rolling Stones can teach you about wearing a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Geneva Watch Days: new next week on Deployant
What to expect from Deployant for next week's coverage fo the Geneva Watch Days. Release with commentary and hands-on full reviews with live pics.
Time+Tide
Three watches I wish that Omega, TAG Heuer and Tudor made…
It’s inevitable that you’ll get to a point in your collecting life where you hit a wall. You find a watch you love. Everything about it is perfect. Well, almost everything. Try as hard as you can, there are a handful of things that keep you from taking that last step into ownership. This is … ContinuedThe post Three watches I wish that Omega, TAG Heuer and Tudor made… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Announcing: Time+Tide x DOXA ‘pacific’ Limited Edition
Announcing: The Time+Tide x DOXA ‘pacific’ Limited Edition, launching Monday 30th August at 9am CET/ 5pm AEST. Prepare for a new angle on DOXA, in a new kind of blue… CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE WATCH The post Announcing: Time+Tide x DOXA ‘pacific’ Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Bernhard Lederer Introduces the Central Impulse Chronometer
After Bernhard Lederer unveiled his impressive double-wheel escapement wristwatch last year, it was radio silence until now. As it turns out, Mr Lederer was working on refining the Central Impulse Chronometer, which is now being launched in its final, serial-production form. The new watch is essentially the same watch, but with a new and improved dial. The movement remains the same: equipped with a double-wheel escapement featuring twin going trains, each equipped with a remontoir d’egalité constant force mechanism – making it one of the serious chronometers in modern horology. Entirely revised is the dial, which now has more elegant design, with slim hour markers framing a chequerboard guilloche centre. And the dial now incorporates gains a symmetrical, figure-of-eight aperture that showcases the twin escapements and remontoirs, with each having its own seconds hand – both turning in the opposite direction. Initial thoughts The CIC is one of the relatively rare wristwatches to incorporate a double-wheel escapement. But what makes the CIC uncommon is its execution – its escapement is powered by twin individual going trains – a construction famously conceived by George Daniels for his pocket watches, most notably the Space Traveller’s Watch. Bernhard Lederer at his bench The degree of miniaturisation to fit such a construction into a watch puts the CIC amongst an exclusive class of timepieces that can be counted on one hand – made by George Daniels, Derek ...
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: Why Bruce’s Wayne’s watches in The Dark Night triology are pitch-perfect
Jaeger-LeCoultre as Bruce Wayne's watch in the Batman movies is an inspired choice, so exquisitely tuned to its owner’s personality.The post EDITOR’S PICK: Why Bruce’s Wayne’s watches in The Dark Night triology are pitch-perfect appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
First Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Marvel Black Panther Flying Tourbillon Appears At Christie’s Marvel(ous) Auction
Since its launch in April 2021, the watch world has been at odds with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Marvel Black Panther Flying Tourbillon. And while it has polarized opinions, that didn't stop it from selling out quickly. Now Christie's has the first Black Panther up for auction at its online "The Marvelous Sale."
SJX Watches
Calling All Up and Coming Young Watchmakers
Every year F.P. Journe seeks out the world’s most promising young clock- and watchmakers and selects one, or sometimes a handful, to receive the year’s F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition prize. The 2022 contest is now open for submissions. Contestants must be between the ages of 18 and 30 years old, and have “independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction”. A jury of industry notables, including Philippe Dufour and Francois-Paul Journe himself, will then decide on the winner, who receives a CHF20,000 grant. This year’s winner was Mario Scarpatetti, who devised a secular perpetual calendar clock. Past winners include Russian watchmaker Anton Suhanov, who has built monumental table clocks, including one with a triple-axis tourbillon within a metal flower, and Remy Cools, who unveiled his first wristwatch tourbillon not too long ago. To enter the contest, submit your entry on fpjourne.com. The deadline for submissions is February 25, 2022.
Time+Tide
Bamford takes a step out of their comfort zone with a cracking monopusher chronograph
Walk into a room of watch enthusiasts and mention Bamford London. The first thing that comes to the mind of pretty much anyone you talk to is the brand’s amazing GMTs, flavoured in a broad array of colours. While being synonymous with a specific collection in your catalogue isn’t necessarily a bad thing, most brands … ContinuedThe post Bamford takes a step out of their comfort zone with a cracking monopusher chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Hour Striker Made Surprisingly Affordable
A German brand with a specific and quirky focus, Meistersinger produces watches with only one hand that simultaneous indicates the hours and minutes. Having been founded in 2001, Meistersinger has rolled out a variety of one-handed watches in its two decades, but earlier this year it debuted perhaps the most interesting to date, the hour-striking Edition Bell Hora. A chiming watch for surprisingly little money, the Bell Hora strikes a single note at the top of every hour. It accomplishes that with a straightforward chiming module on top of a Sellita base movement, explaining its affordable price tag. First launched earlier this year with a metallic finish dial, the Bell Hora is now given a more classical, white-lacquered dial in a limited edition. Initial thoughts Meistersinger by and large only does one product, but in a vast number of iterations. To appreciate any of them, you have to like a single-handed watch, which is a good idea if executed right. In terms of design, Meistersinger’s offerings have been a mixed bag. The new Bell Hora fortunately gets it right. Bringing to mind vintage “multi-scale” chronographs, the white dial has evokes an old-school medical instruments. The watch is, however, quite large at 43 mm, and also thick at 13 mm high. But the Bell Hora does well where it matters. The base movement is a low-cost Sellita, which isn’t fancy but it is an hour striker: a single note is sounded at the top of every hour. For a bit over US$4,000, it’s...
Quill & Pad
Wrist Watching: Rolling Stone Charlie Watts (A Discreet Watch Collector) Knew It Was Only Rock And Roll (But He Liked It)
Charlie Watts passed away on August 24, 2021, at the age of 80 after having been hospitalized for heart problems. He had been the beat-keeper for the Rolling Stones for half a century. Unlike his bandmates, the famed drummer of the Rolling Stones kept a low profile, and so identifying his watches wasn't easy . . . but we managed to spot one.
SJX Watches
Piaget Introduces the Mid-Size Polo 36 mm
After a major facelift in 2016, the Piaget Polo has evolved into a thin but sporty watch available in a variety of guises, including the ultra-thin, skeletonised version introduced earlier in the year. But all of the Polo models to date are masculine, with the smallest model a sizeable 42 mm in diameter (and the high complicated Emperador models even larger). Now Piaget has finally taken the covers off the Piaget Polo Date 36 mm, essentially a mid-sized version of the Polo sports watch. It’s a straightforward watch – automatic, three hands, and date – with either a little or a lot of bling. Initial thoughts Given the popularity of luxury-sports watches, the introduction of the Polo Date 36 mm is a natural progression, while also making sense since there are increasingly enthusiasts, both male and female, who want such watches in a smaller format. That said, the new Polo is primarily a feminine watch, especially since all versions are set with diamonds. Even the understated base model in steel with a blue dial has diamond hour markers. Price wise, the Polo Date 36 mm is pretty competitive, both against its larger sibling as well as alternatives from the competition. For instance, the steel version with diamond markers is priced at US$13,100, which is about 10% pricier than the 42 mm version – that doesn’t have any diamonds – and a lot more affordable than many high-end luxury-sports watches. Still, the Polo is fairly priced for what it is. They are executed ...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Go green with the About Vintage x Kristian Haagen 1970 GMT
How many times have you ever turned to a buddy and said: “We should start our own watch brand”. Picture this: two childhood friends on vacation, Coronas in hand, watching a sunset over the ocean in Mexico. For the two founders of About Vintage it was a moment of creative zen. With a passion for … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Go green with the About Vintage x Kristian Haagen 1970 GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“A big chunk of the industry is somewhat screwed.” An interview with Fears MD, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill
I’m going to put it out there and say there is no more charismatic person in today’s watch world than Fears managing director Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. In an industry littered with formidable personalities – hi Jean-Claude Biver, Patrick Prunnaux and Georges Kern – there is something refreshing about he of the double-barrelled name, and that is … ContinuedThe post “A big chunk of the industry is somewhat screwed.” An interview with Fears MD, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What is the ultimate two-watch collection? The Time+Tide team have their say…
Today we defer to the shrewd counsel of Rob Base and DJ E-Z Rock. As the eighties hip- hop duo so wisely put it: “It takes two to make a thing go alright”. And such advice can certainly apply to your watches. If you pick with true mastery then two watches are potentially all you’d … ContinuedThe post What is the ultimate two-watch collection? The Time+Tide team have their say… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduces Habring2 with J.N. Shapiro Guilloche Dial
After two collaborations with Habring², Massena Lab has just taken the covers off its third joint project with the Austria watchmaker. Strikingly different from the earlier “sector” dial editions, the Erwin Lab03 is a step up in terms of dial decoration. Doing away with the printed sector dial of earlier editions, Massena Lab recruited American guillocheur J.N. Shapiro to create an engine-turned bronze dial with classical Roman numerals and Breguet hands. Initial thoughts Having three variations of one Habring² model in as many years might seem a lot, but Massena Lab has made each version distinctive, each is different enough to bear little resemblance to the stock Erwin. At the same time, the Erwin has appeal. It’s wearable and compact while having an interesting complication, a jumping seconds. Perhaps more elegant than the earlier Massena Lab Erwins, the LAB03 distinguishes itself from the typical guilloche-dial watch. The salmon colour is faddish, but the extra-large Roman numerals and absence of hour markers make the watch stand out from most Breguet-inspired watches. The highlight is definitely the hand-crafted dial. It’s made by Joshua Shapiro, a self-taught independent watchmaker and engine-turning specialist best known for pulling off the extremely intricate guilloche pattern of his own creation. At the same time, Mr Shapiro’s rising reputation certainly adds to the appeal of LAB03. Priced at US$9,450, the Lab03 is the most expensive Erwin from ...