2,293 articles · 4 videos found · page 70 of 77
Breguet's 1801 rotating-cage escapement, explained.
Alfred Helwig's 1920 tourbillon variant with no upper bridge; the entire cage is visible.
Twelve years on, the watch that introduced chiming complications to Jacob & Co. returns with a transparent red mineral crystal dial and meaningful mechanical updates.
42.8 mm × 11.4 mm, lug 22 mm, Cal. R 27 HU
Time+Tide
Casio’s G-Shock are one of the most quietly prolific brands out there. The catalogue is massive, and there’s no point in making a big deal out of a single release when so many hits come flying one after the other. That said, their lack of pushy advertising does mean that the cult of G-Shock can … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: G-Shock’s next evolution of the CasiOak and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Roger Dubuis released a new single tourbillon Excalibur in an artistic collaboration with celebrated French street artist Gully.
Hodinkee
A titanium Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie and a two-tone CODE 11:59 Openworked Tourbillon.
SJX Watches
While the most high profile lot at Phillips’ upcoming New York sale is surely the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 made for the 170th anniversary of Tiffany & Co., there are a handful more watches in the sale that are notable for different reasons. One is unquestionably the tourbillon pocket watch George Daniels made for Edward Hornby in 1971 for its sheer horological merit. And another notable watch sits at the opposite end of the spectrum in terms of horological quality – it’s a standard Omega Speedmaster Moon Watch – but it is historically important, having been owned by Ralph Ellison, the novelist best known for Invisible Man. The 2021 New York Watch Auction takes place on December 11 1 (lots 1-81) and December 12 (lots 82-165) at 432 Park Avenue, New York. The rest of the catalogue is available here. Lot 102: George Daniels The Edward Hornby Tourbillon Pocket Watch One of eight similar watches, all equipped with a one-minute tourbillon, this was made in 1971 for Edward Hornby, a lawyer who collected watches. Made during the period of 1969 to 1973, the eight watches were the first of Daniels’ own creations. Almost all were made for English collectors, save for one that Daniels made for his daughter, Sarah Jane, and another for German chemist Thomas Engel. Named after its first owner like all the other watches in the series of eight, the Hornby watch is typical Daniels, and consequently, also very much Breguet in style. Entirely hand made by Daniels,...
Time+Tide
There are certain mechanisms that bring a sense of child-like wonder to the eyes of a watch collector. There is the twisting and turning of a tourbillon. The snap back of a retrograde. And today I present you with a brand making use of a third, with a bit of fun thrown in for good … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Well blows me down, it’s the Vario ИAVI x POPEYE Nautical Watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin has iterated his bestselling Wristmon Joker frequently, installing new faces and complications the “rolling eye” time display, including the sci-fi Martian Tourbillon that tells the time and date on Mars. Now he takes inspiration from Minions, a spin-off from the Despicable Me animated film franchise. The Minions Watch recreates the diminutive yellow characters who are the henchmen of Gru, the supervillain protagonist of the movies. While it sticks to the same formula, the Minions Watch is slightly more compact than its predecessors, making it more wearable. Initial thoughts All of Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker watches are appealing because of their whimsical mechanics. Though Mr Chaykin has done a good number of variants, the Minions Watch stands out for being inspired by pop culture, which gives his signature watch a new dimension, at least relative to contemporary life. That said, Minions might not have the longevity of Mickey Mouse or other iconic animated films, which might limit the long-term appeal of this watch. That said, the Minions Watch costs about the same as the earlier Joker models, while also being more wearable, making it an appealing proposition on its own. A familiar face The Minions Watch sticks to the same formula as past Wristmon Joker models: the dial has a “rolling eye” display with the left eye indicating the hours and the right eye, the minutes. Just below is the moon phase display contained within the Minion’s mo...
Hodinkee
Going full "Florida Man" and the latest high-flying chronographs from Breitling.
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey’s house style is perhaps best described as contemporary, complicated, and often oversized, which meant some of its watches have a sporty vibe, even if they are not sports watches. The brand only unveiled its first true sports watch – with a 100 m water-resistance rating – two years ago and it was a world time plus tourbillon. The Swiss watchmaker quickly followed up with the Balancier S, a sports watch sans complications. And that has evolved into the Balancier S2, perhaps the brand’s ultimate time-only sports watch. It’s been further streamlined and pared back – and finally gets a matching bracelet in titanium for the integrated-bracelet look that’s now de rigueur for high-end sports watches. Initial thoughts I have always found Greubel Forsey’s watches appealing, despite the astronomical prices (which are justified, to a degree, by the quality), simply because they are original, modern, and extremely well made. But some looked more sporty than they actually were, so all the better that the brand now offers a bona fide sports watch, so that the functionality matches the aesthetic. By that measure the Balancier S2 ticks many boxes. It is functionally simple so the watch is (relatively) thin, and it’s made more wearable with a lightweight titanium case that has a curved back, and the equally lightweight bracelet. One feature that sets the Balancier S2 apart from the original Balancier S is the cleaner look, which works better with it being ...
Quill & Pad
The Bovet Ottantasei Tourbillon is the brand's sixth timepiece designed by Pininfarina, and the years of experience that the two brands now have working together shows. It truly is a sensational watch, but here Ian Skellern focuses on Pininfarina, a name evoking mystical status among anyone interested in world-class design and sensational cars.
Revolution
The Laureato has come in tourbillon versions, skeletonized ceramic versions and many more. This Absolute incarnation may well be one of its appealing executions yet.
Revolution
Greubel Forsey releases a limited “Sincere Fine Watches Edition” of its GMT Sport in bright orange, with world time, and its speedy Tourbillon 24 Secondes.
Hodinkee
The tourbillon-only company's high-velocity tourbillon is based on a surprisingly old idea.
Time+Tide
So a little while ago, I was talking to my hypnotist (long story) when he revealed that he had an intriguing side hustle. Away from his day job, when he wasn’t helping people to quit smoking or overcome their fear of flying, he’d created the biggest polyamory dating app in the world. Think of it, … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Why it’s OK to keep buying the same sort of watch over and over again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Francois-Paul Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021, the F.P. Journe FFC Blue, sticks to a familiar template. Like prior watches conceived for the biennial charity auction – the tourbillon of 2015, split-seconds chronograph of 2017, and the Astronomic of 2019 – this year’s timepiece has a tantalum case and blue dial. But FFC Blue is a strikingly unique watch – the five-fingered time display is a first in watchmaking. Though it has a conventional round case, the FFC Blue is conceptually closer to the unconventional Vagabondage watches than the brand’s round watches. Short for Francis Ford Coppola, the FFC Blue originated with a question posed to Mr Journe by the director of The Godfather and Apocalypse Now in 2012. Mr Coppola suggested a watch that indicated the time with human hand. Over the following years Mr Journe worked on the concept, with Mr Coppola suggesting the finger positions to indicate each hour. And now the filmmaker’s idea has been realised as a one-off creation for the charity auction. Though entirely unique compared with F.P. Journe’s other creations, the FFC is powered by the workhorse cal. 1300 of the Octa series Initial thoughts I found the hand-display concept intensely compelling when Mr Journe described it during my visit to Geneva in 2017. In the metal the FFC is equally compelling. It is inventive and appealing. It’s rather large at 42 mm in diameter, though like nearly all F.P. Journe watches it is unusually thin given the c...
Time+Tide
IWC rarely shy away from a limited edition, especially not when it’s in celebration of military icons. New to the IWC catalogues is a batch of Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Editions that celebrate three F/A-18 Super Hornet flying squadrons of the US Navy - the Royal Maces, the Tophatters, and the Blue Angels. The dial As … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Limited Edition collection celebrates the real Top Guns appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Our pals at The Watches TV went hands on with three of the unique timepieces on offer at the upcoming Only Watch 2021, which takes place on November 6, 2021. The unique watches featured are the F.P. Journe x Francis Ford Coppola FFC Blue, the Moser Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Only Watch, and the Urwerk UR-102 Gaïa. Enjoy this rare treat!
Time+Tide
A long time ago in a galaxy far far away… sorry, that’s the Star Wars nerd in me. If you search your feelings and feel the midichlorians around you, well, perhaps, you are looking for something Star Wars-related for your watch collection. Recently Star Wars and Kross Studio released a limited edition Death Star-inspired tourbillon … ContinuedThe post Let your watch turn to the dark side with the Kross Studio x Star Wars TIE Advanced x1 Watch Winder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We take a comprehensive first look at the new Louis Moiner Space Revolution. A watch which is currently a candidate at the category of “Tourbillon” at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2021. Based on one to one discussions with Jean-Marie Schaller, owner and creative director of Louis Moinet, using press release photographs. FirstRead More
Deployant
The new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Eon Gold 42mm is a nice addition to the Excalibur line, in particular for its more elegant case size. Without compromising its sporty look, the skeletonized tourbillon timepiece provides an excellent alternative to classic watches, a segment of casual high luxury watches that are on an incline. The watch is priced at S$217,000 and limited to 88 pieces.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne introduced the Saxonia Thin 37 at SIHH 2016 as the entry-level model in its collection. But “entry level” is relative at Lange, a brand that famously applies the same rigorous standards of production and finishing to all its watches, from the Saxonia Thin to the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar that retails for more than US$300,000. For the purpose of this review, I will put this reputation to the test by examining each element of the watch in detail, and share my impressions of the ownership experience. Glashüttenomics Though owned by Swiss luxury conglomerate Richemont – which owns over two dozen brands including Cartier, IWC, and Panerai – Lange remains a boutique outfit with an annual output of about 4,500 watches, and a maximum production capacity of about 5,500 watches. This is a fraction of competitors like Audemars Piguet at about 45,000 watches per year, and Patek Philippe, where the figure is over 60,000. While production volume is small, Lange is the largest employer in Glashütte, a small town with a population of about 8,000. Lange employs about 600 people at its Glashütte campus, though some commute in from the surrounding region, including the city of Dresden. This headcount is primarily devoted to watchmaking, since Lange relocated its marketing department to Berlin in 2017. For comparison, Glashütte Original has a similar number of employees in Glashütte, while producing about 13,000 watches per year, or about three ti...
SJX Watches
F.P. Journe has swiftly become one of the most desirable independent watch brands, resulting in an ever growing selection on offer at auction. Perhaps the biggest single offering to date comes by way of Sotheby’s, which has amassed a 13-piece lineup of F.P. Journe watches for its upcoming Important Watches sale that takes place in Hong Kong on October 13, 2021. We round up eight of the most notable, a selection that naturally includes a Tourbillon Souverain “Souscription”, as well as several limited editions, ranging from Ruthenium to a Tokyo-boutique special. The full catalogue and registration to bid are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2085: Octa Réserve de Marche with brass movement Originally the entry-level model for the brand, the Octa Réserve de Marche is today a stealth watch of sorts since it is still a simple watch, but an unusually valuable one. Launched in 2001, the Octa Réserve was part of the original trio of watches launched by Francois-Paul Journe, coming after the tourbillon and Resonance. Despite being the brand’s entry-level wristwatch at the time, it still boasted a proprietary movement with an impressive five-day power reserve, though the running time was originally envision was eight days, hence the “Octa” moniker. The cal. 1300 developed for the Octa Réserve would then go on to be the base movement for the entire Octa collection. The best part of the Octa Reserve is its asymmetric dial. Showing the time, date and power reserve, the d...
Time+Tide
Mike Christensen, our European Editor and one time foe when back in the day he was the captain of GQ Australia, is an aesthetic sort of chap. While he can appreciate a tourbillon with the best of us, his eyes are drawn more often to the lines of a case, the shade of a fumé … ContinuedThe post Mike’s top 5 picks from Geneva Watch Days are basically: 1. Moser Streamliner PC 2. Moser 3. Streamliner etc appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The duo will discuss the history of the tourbillon, including its theory and modern evolution.
SJX Watches
Historically a major producer of marine chronometers, Ulysse Nardin has repurposed the concept in the modern day for its bestselling line of wristwatches that retain the face of a marine chronometer while having in-house movements and eminently reasonable prices. For its 175th anniversary, Ulysse Nardin has unveiled the Marine Torpilleur 175 Years collection, a suite of limited-edition watches starting with an affordable base model and ending with a range-topping tourbillon featuring a fired-enamel dial. Initial thoughts Originally introduced as an entry-level Marine model – it was named after a torpedo boat – the Marine Torpilleur has been successful enough that it’s now an entire anniversary line up. The expansion of the line is a good thing, because the Torpilleur is classically handsome and generally good value. All the Torpilleur models are largish at 42 mm in diameter, but most are slim, with heights of about 11 mm, though the chronograph is understandably wider and thicker. As a result, they appear relatively thin on the wrist, especially for a sporty watch. The tourbillon with a black enamel dial, and next to it a vintage Ulysse Nardin chronometer pocket watch with tourbillon regulator And the watches are all equipped with high-spec in-house movements, which is a big factor in their value propositions. Even the base model, which costs US$8,200 in its simplest version, is equipped with the UN-118, a movement that has a silicon hairspring and escapement, along...
SJX Watches
The GMT and tourbillon have long been a favourite combination at Greubel Forsey, but the watchmaker is bringing the combo to an end – at least in its current form – with the GMT Earth Final Edition. Greubel Forsey (GF) is closing the model’s run with a version in titanium, matched with an all-black palette, giving it a look and feel that’s sportier than the earlier GMT Earth models, which were primarily cased in precious metals. Initial thoughts GF has offered a variety of models with a GMT complication, with each having being iterated several times in small runs. But the GMT Earth has always stood out for its simplicity – compared with the model boasting twin double-axis tourbillons for instance – yet it packs in all the defining features of the brand’s travel-time watch, such as a fully-visible rotating globe that indicates day or night around the world and of course the 24-second, inclined tourbillon. That makes it ideal for someone who wants the essence of a GF travel watch in a simple (relatively speaking) package. And the GMT Earth Final Edition the coolest looking of the bunch, with a dark dial that goes well with the greyish titanium case. It’s a good look that’s gives the watch a more edgy, futuristic design, setting it apart from the typical GF. And the darker colours should leave the 45.5 mm case appearing smaller. Unlike other ultra high-end sport(y) watches, such as those from Richard Mille, GF is slightly restrained in terms of aesthetic...
SJX Watches
A specialist retailer of independent watchmaking, Watch4moi recently published its first feature article – and it’s worth a look. Watch4moi founder Shawn Mehta paid a visit to Remy Cools, the 20-something French watchmaker who made his debut last year with a tourbillon of his own creation. Now based in Annecy, a town in France just an hour from Geneva by car, Mr Cools is in the process of finishing his first batch of wristwatches, with much of the work being done the old-fashioned way, with manual tools. The Remy Cools Tourbillon Souscription. Image – Remy Cools Mr Mehta took a look at the machines, processes, and craft that go into one of Mr Cools’ tourbillons, the first of which will reach clients later this year. He describes, for instance, the process of finishing the raw wheels Mr Cools obtains from a supplier: first the teeth are cut individually on a lathe, followed by a dozen or so hours of hand finishing. Read the story on Watch4moi.com.
SJX Watches
David Candaux established his eponymous brand with the 1740 Half Hunter, a watch with several exotic features that made it decidedly unconventional, especially for a watchmaker located in the traditional heart of Swiss watchmaking, the village of Le Solliat in the Vallee de Joux. Now Mr Candaux is following up with something more concise, the DC7 Genesis. The DC7 still preserves many of the novel elements of the original model – like the inclined-balance tourbillon – but presents them in a streamlined manner. Initial thoughts For someone who appreciated the technical merits of David Candaux’s first wristwatch, but found it too fancy, the DC7 is ideal. The DC7 remains unusual in both design and construction, but inches closer to the conventional end of the scale. The cleaner and simpler design make the DC7 easier to digest. Though streamlined, the DC7 still retains the watchmaker’s signature features, including the vertically-symmetrical case, telescopic crown, and inclined-balance tourbillon. More broadly, the watch is composed of inclined surfaces – the dial and movement bridges are both inclined, making it instantly recognisable as a David Candaux creation. At the same time, the movement is finished differently from the original model, and slightly less intricate, but still appears to be done to a similarly high standard. Importantly, the simpler mechanics make it more affordable. At about US$150,000 in titanium, the DC7 is not quite a value buy, but it’...
SJX Watches
Sotheby’s latest online sale is in a quirky combination of luxury watches and high-end sneakers – some of which cost more than the watches. Fortunately the large majority of the 164 lots are horological, with a selection of watches that’s diverse and interesting, led by a couple of heavyweight top lots. The heavyweights are quite literal, both complicated watches in platinum from brands widely regarded as benchmarks in contemporary watchmaking: an F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain with a platinum case and bracelet, along with the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Luminous “Phantom”. The sale also includes more esoteric watches that might be overlooked, including as a retailer-edition Patek Philippe Calatrava with ruby markers, and a Grand Seiko “First” remake in platinum. The Fine Watches and Rare Sneakers auction is live online from now until June 8, 2021. The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available here. Lot 8201 – F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Platinum Introduced in 2004, the F. P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain was the successor to the original Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite. Like the original, the Tourbillon Souverain combined both a tourbillon regulator and constant force mechanism in a quest for accuracy. Its most obvious distinction against its predecessor was the small seconds at six linked to the remontoir mechanism. The Tourbillon Souverain itself was replaced in 2019 by something bigger and vertical, making it increasingly uncomm...
SJX Watches
Best known for its ultra-exotic tourbillon wristwatches, Greubel Forsey has just made a surprise announcement: the brand will be permanently eliminating animal leather straps for its timepieces, instead replacing them with straps made of plant-based materials starting next year. While not the first brand turning towards sustainable alternatives to animal leather – Swatch and Cartier did so earlier this year – Greubel Forsey is the first to undergo a complete transition, doing away with animal hides entirely. And with its most affordable watch still carrying a six-figure US dollar price, Greubel Forsey is certainly the only brand at the top end of the market doing so. More broadly, the luxury-watch industry has been making slower progress than the luxury-car industry, which has speedily moved on to greener materials for interiors. That is perhaps driven in part by the fact that traditional carmakers are already regarded as major polluters, with upstarts like Tesla accelerating away. Giants such as Bentley and Mercedes-Benz now rely on specialists like Dinamica and Vegea for leather replacements that are actually recycled paper and plant-based material respectively. That’s proof that a similar pivot for watchmakers is achievable, which is the opinion of Greubel Forsey chief executive Antonio Calce. “The technical offer for plant-based straps is mature,” noted Mr Calce in the announcement, “And our clients are by nature forward-thinking and welcoming of innovati...
SJX Watches
Anton Suhanov is best known for impressive desk clocks – the most recent of which features a triple-axis tourbillon within a metallic flower – but he has just unveiled his first timekeeper for the wrist. Inspired by automotive gauges, the Racer Jumping Hour GMT is an inventive take on the dual time zone wristwatch and boasts a double retrograde display along with a jumping hour. Initial thoughts His talents were already evident in his desk clocks, but Mr Suhanov now proves he can be equally imaginative with wristwatches. He once worked in Konstantin Chaykin’s workshop, which perhaps contributed to the novel design. Automotive-inspired watches rarely capture the style of a dashboard without looking silly, but the Racer manages to do so successfully. The design instantly evokes the dashboard of a vintage automobile thanks to several clever design elements, including the tiny canopies over each retrograde display as well as the arched guilloche and tiny jump hour winds that gives the dial a sense of perspective. The Racer is more complex than it looks – the time-display module has as many parts as an entire chronograph movement – although the base movement is a tried and true, but no-frills ETA 2824. Still, with a price of a bit over US$17,000, the Racer offers good value given the original design and mechanical complexity, most of which is accomplished in-house by Mr Suhanov. Inventive design and mechanics The slightly retro dial indicates the hours and minutes o...
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