Revolution
Introducing Harry Winston’s 2020 Collection of Watches
Harry Winston announces the 14th chapter of their Zalium watches and a bevy of additions to the Ocean Biretrograde and Premier Collections
Results for De Bethune
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Revolution
SJX Watches
Interview: Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot
Though he runs one of the world’s most high-profile watch brands, Ricardo Guadalupe is less flamboyant than many of his peers. But the 30-year veteran of the watch industry has grown the brand into one of the world’s ten biggest watchmakers measured by revenue, making him one of the most successful leaders in the industry. A longtime deputy to the larger-than-life Jean-Claude Biver – though he is now the boss, Mr Guadalupe still acknowledges his mentor often – he took charge of Hublot in 2012 after his former boss was tapped to run the watch division of LVMH. During his tenure, Mr Guadalupe not only continued Hublot’s sales growth, but also substantially expanded its manufacturing capability – a feat that is often overlooked and underrated. That was made possible in part by a career that has taken him from product development to manufacturing, allowing him to develop an all-encompassing grasp of the business, explaining how Hublot manages to produce both its own movements – and its own proprietary, bright-red ceramic. I spoke to Mr Guadalupe during LVMH Watch Week earlier this year, where he discussed his measured and practical approach to delivering consistently excellent performance and product, exemplified by the years-long evolution of Hublot’s signature Big Bang into the Integral. The interview was edited for length and clarity. You guys did a really good job with the new Big Bang Integral. It’s difficult doing a nice bracelet, but you managed it. ...
Time+Tide
Live pics and prices of the new aviation-themed Longines Spirit Collection
For some time now, I think we can all agree, Longines has been on a hot streak like few other brands. All of their additions to the fantastic Heritage Collection have ranged from commendable to award-winning fire, and new iterations of the HydroConquest and Master Collections have continued to punch well above their RRP weight. They … ContinuedThe post Live pics and prices of the new aviation-themed Longines Spirit Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Corum Admiral 42 Automatic Bronze For 2020: A Nautically Inspired Watch Perfect For Landlubbers
Martin Green likes the new Admiral 42 Automatic Bronze models because Corum presents the bronze of the case in a rawer form. If he owned one, he would be excited about seeing the hues of the case change along with his voyage through life. What about you, do you agree?
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Defy 21 Ultraviolet
While Zenith occasionally looks into its famed attic for inspiration, the brand regularly shows off its innovation and forward-thinking sensibilities. Case in point – the new Defy 21 Ultraviolet. The watch is dressed entirely in violet, a colour with one of the highest frequencies in the visible spectrum, making the livery a conceptual complement to the 1/100th-of-a-second El Primero 9004 inside the watch. Initial thoughts It never really struck me how uncommon the colour is in watchmaking until I saw the new Defy 21 (though the influencer and collector Amr Sindi has collaborated with several brands to create watches in the colour, and may have had a hand in conceiving the Defy 21 Ultraviolet). A bold choice of choice, violet is used for the dial and strap, but also throughout the movement, making for a fun and casual watch, especially on the rubber strap covered in violet fabric. Though the violet elements might seem loud at first glance, the colour isn’t actually too much. It’s a dark purple that’s more Imperial Rome than Joker from Batman. And it is essentially a two-colour watch in violet and dark grey; the use of a micro-blasted titanium case, helps to diminish the visual prominence of watch. Colour aside, the Defy 21 is a strong value proposition – though it’s the best value in its simplest guise – offering a twin-oscillator, high-frequency chronograph movement for a relatively affordable price. A new face Colour aside, the look is pretty much like the...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H
Now five years old, Montblanc’s 1858 collection has proven to be both on the nose and on the money – and the line-up now includes an unusual single-handed, 24-hour wristwatch that doubles as a solar compass. From the entry-level automatic to the top-of-the-line split-seconds chronograph, the 1858 watches offer respectable value in their respective price categories, while possessing a pleasing balance of retro details reliant on clever use of tone, font, and finish. At Watches & Wonders 2020, Montblanc continued the theme, but with a twist, when it introduced the 1858 Automatic 24H. Initial thoughts Mechanically simple but functionally and visually unusual, the Automatic 24H doesn’t cost very much more than the base-model, three-hand automatic. Admittedly it only tells the time approximately, but the look and feel is reminiscent of an oversized vintage instrument, rather than just a vintage-inspired wristwatch. In order words, it is probably the most interesting entry-level watch from Montblanc. In fact, it’s a compelling proposition in the broader sub-US$5,000 category, being more interesting than the usual fare in this price segment. 24 hours and uncommon While not new, watches with a 24-hour time display where hour hand makes one revolution a day are uncommon, especially outside of specialised timers for professionals who operate on a 24-hour time such as pilots and astronauts. As a result, 24-hour watches are often no-nonsense instruments. Such watches typic...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB161, an entirely new Presage dial design inspired by a clock from the ’70s
The Seiko Presage collection has long been a popular part of the brand’s lineup thanks to the well-tuned value proposition, and the amount of watch you get for your money. The Seiko SPB161 is another fine example. Featuring a crisp enamel dial and powered by the automatic Seiko caliber 6R27, you are once again gaining … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB161, an entirely new Presage dial design inspired by a clock from the ’70s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The new A. Lange & Söhne ghost grey Odysseus is 50% more expensive but 100% more awesome than the debut model
When the price tag of a wristwatch is more akin to a house or a McLaren supercar, there are a certain amount of bells and whistles you want to see. With A. Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk Minute Repeater in white gold, there may not be bells, but you can see the aggressively sculpted hammers striking … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The new A. Lange & Söhne ghost grey Odysseus is 50% more expensive but 100% more awesome than the debut model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #177: Building A Watch Collection for $300
Building a watch collection? Do you have $1k to spend? Sorry, this episode isn’t for you. Let’s get serious. Kaz & Mike are back and this week they’re looking for the best way to get started for no more than $300.
Revolution
Reader Donates Baltic x Worn & Wound Watch for Revolution x The Rake Covid-19 Solidarity Auction
When Revolution x The Rake Covid-19 Solidarity Auction was first announced, an incredible Aussie gent named Vaughn, who goes by the Instagram handle @hands.faces.cases reached out to say, he wanted to donate this Baltic x Worn & Wound sold out Sector dial beauty. So we caught up with Vaughn to find out why he felt thus compelled to reach out and donate towards this cause.
Time+Tide
Purple reign, purple reign: Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet, a high-frequency colour for a high-frequency chrono
Watch press releases are guilty of purple prose on a daily basis. But you can forgive Zenith a poetic, purple turn of phrase or two here, because what they have brought together in the Defy 21 Ultraviolet – which is the highest frequency colour with a high frequency chronograph, able to measure time to 1/100th … ContinuedThe post Purple reign, purple reign: Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet, a high-frequency colour for a high-frequency chrono appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Say His Name. George Floyd.
Because now is not the time to step aside and remain silent. Say his name. George Floyd.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Autodromo, for the rev-head that drives tastefully, or the watch lover that lives adventurously
It’s Monday, baby! June. The. First. I’ll skip the “pinch and a punch” nonsense – the first half of this year has been a dystopian nightmare … we can only hope things get better from today. Luckily, there are indeed slivers of hope that our fortunes are on the rise, even if our thermostats aren’t … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Autodromo, for the rev-head that drives tastefully, or the watch lover that lives adventurously appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: Keep Your Eyes On The Skies With This Incredibly Complicated Vacheron Constantin
Jack goes beyond our atmosphere to provide the low-down on an astronomical grand complication.
Time+Tide
A deep dive on why the new 2020 Jaeger-LeCoultre collection has excited us so much
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2020 Collection is their best in years Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control collection has long been a benchmark for subtlety in the execution of style, with each movement, from simple three handers to chronograph calendars, being the definition of art meets mechanics. In 2020’s online edition of the Watches & Wonders fair, the Swiss maestros unveiled … ContinuedThe post A deep dive on why the new 2020 Jaeger-LeCoultre collection has excited us so much appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A comprehensive list of the key Oris Divers Sixty-Five watches
The Oris Divers Sixty-Five is hugely popular, and rightly so. Any independent brand that makes a well-designed, vintage-inspired tool watch at an affordable price will quickly gain a loyal following, something Oris has done with aplomb since the collection was first released in 2015. What some don’t know, and a key ingredient in their popularity, … ContinuedThe post A comprehensive list of the key Oris Divers Sixty-Five watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A Reader Asks, 'Are ETA Movements Ever OK In High-End Watchmaking?'
To an important degree, the answer is that it's the wrong question to ask in the first place.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Baselworld is not dead! It’s on YouTube, including a smoking hot new khaki Longines live on wrist
Never been to Baselworld? We can fix that. Just give us half an hour. In our first of three episodes re-creating the Baselworld experience – with all the things you expect, i.e lots and lots of watches and lots of things you don’t – we run through all the new releases from brands that show … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Baselworld is not dead! It’s on YouTube, including a smoking hot new khaki Longines live on wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Recap: Instagram Live with Rexhep Rexhepi
Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia was the guest on our first-ever Instagram Live, where he spoke with our founder SJX. Lighthearted and insightful, the session centred on the growth of Akrivia’s in-house capabilities, as well as the future of the Chronomètre Contemporain series. Here’s a recap of the highlights from the session. Ambitions for integration Rexhep has big dreams for Akrivia as a true manufacture, from production to even testing. This stems from an explicit desire to control every element of production, and to ensure his high standards at met every step of the way. Much of the progress made in vertical integration will be reflected in the second series of the Chronomètre Contemporain. While the series one cases were produced by a Geneva specialist, the second series will have its cases made in-house by master case maker Jean-Pierre Hagmann, who joined Akrivia last year. At the same time, Rexhep said the movement will have a greater share of parts made in-house. While the exactly proportion was unsaid, he made clear that his goal was to eventually make all key parts – bridges, base plates, wheels and pinions – in the Akrivia workshop. Beyond production timepieces, such vertical integration will be advantageous as it would allow Akrivia to prototype ideas far more quickly. Rexhep Rexhepi with Jean-Pierre Hagmann. Photo – Akrivia Interestingly, Rexhep also touched on chronometer testing and certification. The first series Chronomètre Contemporain is te...
Quill & Pad
Shinola Detrola The Champ: Benefiting Detroit’s Healthcare Workers Amid The COVID-19 Crisis
Shinola's Detrola collection is geared more toward color, materials, and fun than serious watchmaking. It balances style with affordability much the same way Swatch does. And the brand's new Detrola The Champ has one more thing going for it: it has turned a setback into a strength to benefit COVID-19 relief in the Detroit area.
WatchAdvice
DOXA SUB 200 Review
Introduction When it comes to iconic dive watches, few individual pieces, let alone brands at large, possess the pedigree and character akin to that of Doxa. Having adorned the wrists of Jacques Cousteau and fictional character Dirk Pitt, there is little left for the imagination in terms of what their watches are capable of enduring. If I’ve ever had a watch that I bought initially under, and due to, the influence of alcohol, immediately felt a sense of “what have I done”, and then fell in love with more than I could have ever conceived, that’d be the Caribbean Doxa Sub 200. It may not be the signature “fat” cushion case with the integrated no-decompression dive time calculator, nor does it wear the signature orange dial that made Doxa stand out from the rest back in 1967, but one thing it certainly is not, is boring. Initially at face value, it’s your standard issue dive watch with your usual checks in the right boxes. But as any watch geek would know, we never “fall” for a watch as a result of its specs sheet, but rather the way you feel when it’s on your wrist, we obsess over the most minute details, the little, split second glances that make you smile. The SUB 200 does just that, while not breaking the bank and delivers value at the top of its class. The SUB 200 is what I like to call the gateway drug to the world of what Doxa has to offer. It delivers the rugged, utilitarian construction to take on the seas, or in my case, crashing into the ground ...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Brace yourself for virtual Baselworld, and get your mojo back with Navy SEAL Jocko Willinck’s inspirational watch
OK, this legit feels like a Friday. It’s 3:30, and as we say in Australia, I’m absolutely stinging for a tin. Translation: a cold beer would be very pleasant if you happen to have one? I’m back in the house, out of my pimped-up pool shed that I now call home during the week while … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Brace yourself for virtual Baselworld, and get your mojo back with Navy SEAL Jocko Willinck’s inspirational watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
We’ve recreated Baselworld 2020 on YouTube over three epic episodes, starting tomorrow. This is what you can expect
The Home Delivery Watch Fair, Watches & Wonders Edition was hands down one of the most ambitious and fun things we’ve ever attempted. And, judging by the comments, you seemed to enjoy it. That’s about all the encouragement we needed to take that positivity forward and tackle the big dance. So, we’re doing it again. … ContinuedThe post We’ve recreated Baselworld 2020 on YouTube over three epic episodes, starting tomorrow. This is what you can expect appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The 5 Bremont models we chose for our shop, and why …
Bremont may have only been around since 2002, but since its inception, founders and brothers Nick and Giles English have made sure that the hard-charging British watchmaker has been at the forefront of not only innovation but also military collaboration and integration. In fact, you can find a Bremont strapped to the wrist of a … ContinuedThe post The 5 Bremont models we chose for our shop, and why … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Pol Roger 2012 Champagnes: Grand Releases For Perhaps The Grandest Vintage
It was the wonderful 1975 Pol Roger that first ignited Ken Gargett's love of great champagne. Here he looks at (and tastes) the 2012 releases and they do not disappoint: the great vintages of this century have been 2002, 2008, and perhaps now 2012!
Time+Tide
Comparing and contrasting the two Bulgari Octo Finissimo ceramic models: Polished vs. Sandblasted, which is for you?
If variety is the spice of life, Bulgari are condiment connoisseurs when it comes to the Octo Finissimo collection. Available in titanium, ceramic, carbon, sandblasted gold and now stainless steel, the many faceted cases of the range offer a dizzying array of different finishes. These external variations are hardly superficial either, they make a profound … ContinuedThe post Comparing and contrasting the two Bulgari Octo Finissimo ceramic models: Polished vs. Sandblasted, which is for you? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Krayon Anywhere: A Personal Ephemeris for the Wrist
Meet the new Anywhere by Krayon, which allows you to determine exactly the time of sunrise and sunset and the total duration of a day anywhere on the planet.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, a modern-sized vintage charmer with heft
There is a lot to be said for a simple chronograph. Something clear, easy to read and a pleasure to look at. You don’t always want to strap a large, bulky watch to your wrist. One with more information on the dial than you will ever use, and with at least half the displays doing … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, a modern-sized vintage charmer with heft appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Krayon Anywhere
Krayon made its debut in 2017 with the Everywhere, an incredibly complex wristwatch that was, in essence, a mechanical calculator for sunrise and sunset. Founded by movement constructor Rémi Maillat in 2013, Krayon has debuted the follow up to the Everywhere, the simpler, sleeker – and a lot more affordable – Anywhere. Like its bigger brother, the Anywhere displays the time of sunrise and sunset. But while the Everywhere allowed the wearer to input his location and time zone for the watch to show local sunrise and sunset times everywhere, the Anywhere displays sunrise and sunset times for a single, fixed location, albeit one that can be quite easily changed by a watchmaker. Despite while the complication has been streamlined, the movement has been upgraded in terms of finishing, which is now exceptional. The Anywhere in white gold Initial thoughts The Anywhere is surprising in person. Given the complexity of the movement, you’d expect a large watch with a fussy display. But the Anywhere is modestly sized – the thinness of the case stands out – giving it an elegant profile on the wrist. At the same time, the dial layout is simple and intuitive, making it easy to understand. And it is also easy to operate, with the calendar and time both set via the crown. And the calendar, in turn, controls the sunrise and sunset function, so the interface is straightforward. Turn it over and the movement is also surprising. While the movement in the Everywhere was a mechanica...
SJX Watches
Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Sports Watch
A marque revived via a crowdfunded effort in 2015, Czapek & Cie. has just announced its first sports watch, the Antarctique. The popularity of luxury-sports watches in steel makes that unsurprising, but the Antarctique is powered by a newly-developed, automatic movement with an interesting construction. Initial thoughts Doubtlessly conceived to cater to the current fad for luxury-sports watches in steel, the Antarctique is unsurprising in terms of design. While the overall look is reminiscent of a variety of watches, most notably the earlier-generation Girard-Perregaux Laureato, it manages to be different enough, in particularly with the C-shaped links. But more important and interesting is the movement inside, the SXH5. It was conceived by a team that includes prominent constructors like Emmanuel Bouchet, an independent watchmaker who is probably best known for the Harry Winston Opus 12, as well as Daniel Martinez, an independent constructor who worked at Sellita, MCT, and Greubel Forsey in the past. The SXH5 A large movement with high-quality features, the SXH5 has an interesting aesthetic that’s slightly inspired by vintage pocket watch movements but is clearly modern. And going by the photos, it also appears to be well finished. But the Antarctique is expensive – its price tag of US$18,900 is almost exactly the same as that of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding. While the Antarctique probably has a more compelling and unusual movement, the Czapek brand ...