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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: An open letter describing how you schooled us on the place of watches in a pandemic. How can they still matter? Time+Tide
Apr 30, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: An open letter describing how you schooled us on the place of watches in a pandemic. How can they still matter?

This time a couple of weeks ago, the challenge was set, and it was formidable. A fast approaching watch fair – Watches & Wonders – with no watches in sight. None to have. None to hold. None to video. What choice but to fold? We didn’t do that, though. We’re Aussies, we don’t give up … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: An open letter describing how you schooled us on the place of watches in a pandemic. How can they still matter? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Cartier Santos-Dumont “La Demoiselle” Limited Edition in platinum, a feast of details Time+Tide
Cartier Santos-Dumont “La Demoiselle” Limited Apr 30, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Cartier Santos-Dumont “La Demoiselle” Limited Edition in platinum, a feast of details

This year, Cartier are shining the spotlight on the pioneering age of aviation as a source of inspiration. And that brings to the fore the wristwatch that started it all, the Santos-Dumont. The model returned to prominence in 2019 with the quartz Cartier Santos-Dumont. While the Cartier family and Brazilian inventor Alberto Santos-Dumont are inexorably … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Cartier Santos-Dumont “La Demoiselle” Limited Edition in platinum, a feast of details appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pandemic Truths – François-Henry Bennahmias SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Apr 30, 2020

Pandemic Truths – François-Henry Bennahmias

Audemars Piguet is one of the most recognised brands in haute horlogerie, but since François-Henry Bennahmias took over as chief executive in 2012, it has enjoyed turbocharged growth, with turnover more than doubling to over a billion francs in 2019. As the crisis hit, Audemars Piguet was still in the midst of executing some drastic strategic changes in the brand’s distribution and marketing – eliminating all third-party retail as well as pulling out from the SIHH trade fair. Has the crisis changed its plans? François-Henry Bennahmias answers our questions from his home in Nyon, a town 40 minutes to Audemars Piguet’s headquarters in Le Brassus (which just opens its new museum shaped like a glass spiral). Francois-Henri at home in Nyon How has this crisis impacted your business? All our manufacturing sites are closed; 85% of our stores worldwide are closed. So we are drastically impacted as you can imagine. 2020 will be affected in a substantial way. But with what our team have achieved in the past eight years, Audemars Piguet can weather the storm. Our financial health is good. We are able to keep every single employee around the world on the payroll. That is mainly what we have been working on: taking care of our people, of their health and of their jobs. In this regard, I would say that all is good! Obviously, the situation calls for a deep reflection on the “after”. Anyone who believes that we will go back to the normal we once knew is completely mistaken. ...

New: Montblanc Novelties for 2020 with Editorial Commentary Deployant
Montblanc Novelties Apr 29, 2020

New: Montblanc Novelties for 2020 with Editorial Commentary

Montblanc is building up its identity as the adventurer brand, heritage sports. In particular, there is, as with many other brands, the obsession with navigation and the reminiscence of European adventurism. Of the models this year, the brand has mostly stuck to its guns with the Geosphere, and Monopusher. The 24 hour single hand watch is also rather unique. The case dimensions for the watches remain on the more hefty side of things, as expected especially with the thicker movement Monopusher automatic.

Bulgari Introduces the Bulgari Bulgari Cities Special Edition SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces Apr 29, 2020

Bulgari Introduces the Bulgari Bulgari Cities Special Edition

While Bulgari is probably best known for the ultra-thin Octo Finissimo and serpent-inspired, jewelled timepieces, one of its earliest wristwatch icons – and one with a broader appeal – is the Bulgari Bulgari, which happens to have been designed by Gerald Genta. And the new Bulgari Bulgari Cities Special Edition 2020 – each accompanied by a set of prints – actually harks back to the origins of the design, which was conceived as an entry-level watch. Introduced in 1977, the Bulgari Bulgari was Genta’s adaptation of the Bulgari Roma, a digital quartz watch that Bulgari gifted its top 100 clients in 1975. Engraved with “BVLGARI” and “ROMA” on its bezel, the watch borrowed from ancient Roman coins with the reigning Emperor’s name inscribed on the circumference. Genta transformed the dinky gift into the Bulgari Bulgari, which has since become one of the jeweller’s trademark watches. The Bulgari Bulgari of 1977 (left), and the dinky digital watch of 1975. Photo – Bulgari Initial thoughts The new Cities Edition takes inspiration from a limited run of watches with black-plastic cases in the early 1990s. Though small, those were good-looking watches, because they combined the classic Bulgari Bulgari style with a stark black-and-gold livery. But the cases were plastic and the watches felt cheap – though to be fair they were cheaply, and fairly, priced. Now Bulgari has translated the same look into a larger, upgraded watch with a steel case and in-house mo...

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Oster Edition: Horological Joy In Collaboration Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Oster Apr 28, 2020

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Oster Edition: Horological Joy In Collaboration

The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Oster Edition is the result of an informal meeting between Denver-based retailer Jeremy Oster, Armin Strom head of watchmaking Claude Greisler, and independent watchmaker extraordinaire Kari Voutilainen. Not surprisingly, the collaboration resulted in a stunning, technical watch limited to just 10 pieces and available only through Oster Jewelers. It's a must-see!

Watches fit for a groom – the best wedding watches of 2020 inc. L.U.Chopard, Longines and Rado Time+Tide
Longines Apr 28, 2020

Watches fit for a groom – the best wedding watches of 2020 inc. L.U.Chopard, Longines and Rado

When it comes to big days, they don’t come much more memorable or special than your wedding day, especially now, when it seems like every wedding has its own hashtag or custom location check-in. So it’s only natural that you’d want to ensure every inch – from top to wrist – is looking its finest. … ContinuedThe post Watches fit for a groom – the best wedding watches of 2020 inc. L.U.Chopard, Longines and Rado appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers limited edition, a bold statement already creating buzz Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Apr 28, 2020

HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers limited edition, a bold statement already creating buzz

It was a Friday afternoon last November when I met Jan Edöcs, the CEO of Doxa S.A. He was here for the launch of the brand in Australia, and not only brought the full collection of watches from 2019, but he was also generous enough to share what they had in store for 2020, including … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers limited edition, a bold statement already creating buzz appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Design a Ressence Wristwatch for Charity SJX Watches
Ressence Wristwatch Apr 28, 2020

Design a Ressence Wristwatch for Charity

Intended to raise funds for medical research, independent watchmaker Ressence has just announced Time to Draw, a wristwatch design contest. The contest calls for participants to design the dial of the Ressence Type 1 Slim wristwatch, and the winner will turned into an actual, one-off wristwatch – with the designer’s name engraved on the case – that will then be sold at Sotheby’s. The Type 1 Slim Proceeds will go to KU Leuven in Belgium, specifically to support the university’s COVID-19 coronavirus research programme that is working on a vaccine and advanced detection of the virus. Taking part in the contest is easy: Download the Type 1 Slim templates from Ressence.com Get to work with any type of design tool – physical or electronic (there are no restrictions on design tools) Specify the exact colour of every component, including typography and luminous paint Submit the design by email before the closing deadline – 2:00 pm GMT on May 12, 2020 For the design template and more details, visit Ressence.com.  

F.P. Journe Introduces the New Chronomètre à Résonance SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces Apr 28, 2020

F.P. Journe Introduces the New Chronomètre à Résonance

Since its launch in 2000, the Chronomètre à Résonance has perhaps become the quintessential F.P. Journe wristwatch. Still the only wristwatch to rely on the principle of resonance – omitting any mechanical means of transmission – the Résonance has been revamped and improved for its 20th anniversary. While the Résonance was powered by essentially the same calibre (the cal. 1499 in several generations) for its first two decades, the new Chronomètre à Résonance is equipped with the brand-new cal. 1520. Several features set the new movement apart from its predecessor, most notably the use of a single barrel and a remontoir d’egalite constant force mechanism in each going train. Initial thoughts Having learnt a little about the new Résonance from hints dropped by Mr Journe in the past, I was looking forward to this – and the watch lives up to expectations. The basics of the new model are no surprise, since Mr Journe had let on that the movement will incorporate his signature remontoir. The upgrades to the new movement are sensible both in terms of function and timekeeping. Relying on a single barrel eliminates the finicky and occasionally unreliable double-barrel winding mechanism of the original movement. But the remontoir installed in each going train is the crucial upgrade as it optimises the going trains before and after the escapement. In the original Resonance movement, both balance wheels oscillate at an identical amplitude at any one time, but the am...

The hidden party trick that makes the Jaeger‑LeCoultre Master Control Calendar a (relatively) accessible work of art Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Apr 27, 2020

The hidden party trick that makes the Jaeger‑LeCoultre Master Control Calendar a (relatively) accessible work of art

The thing about understated magnificence is that, at first glance, it’s often overlooked. And then it happens. The “why-Miss-Jones-without-your-glasses-you’re-beautiful” moment. Suddenly noticed, the full force of its charm slaps you sharply in the face, to leave you genuflecting with slack-jawed wonder and a slightly goofy smile. This is how I feel about the just-released Jaeger‑LeCoultre … ContinuedThe post The hidden party trick that makes the Jaeger‑LeCoultre Master Control Calendar a (relatively) accessible work of art appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon Apr 27, 2020

Up Close: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide

The flagship of IWC’s new Portugieser watches unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2020 is not the most complicated, but it is certainly the most unusual. The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide is a first for IWC, introducing a brand-new complication to its line-up – a tide indication that tracks the ocean’s ebbs and flows. Initial thoughts The Yacht Club Moon & Tide is a big, heavy and shiny sports watch with twin sub-dials, but it is far more interesting than the typical watch in this category (which is almost always a chronograph). One of the very rare, comprehensive tide-display watches on the market, the Yacht Club Moon & Tide incorporates twin tidal displays, which are useless for most but fascinating, not just because they are rare but also because they are, in essence, an astronomical complication. And the tidal displays are combined with IWC’s trademark double moon phase, making it a bit more compelling. (But like all tide-indicator watches, the new Yacht Club has a caveat: IWC points out it “works reliably on all coasts with two equally strong high and low tides per day”. It is not a flaw, but just a nature of the complication. More that below.) At the same time, the watch overall is constructed to IWC’s usual levels of quality, which is to say excellent. The only downside is the rose-gold case, resulting in a steep price tag; hopefully a steel or titanium version comes along (and it probably will). The tidal watch, until now The tide-indicator complicatio...

MICRO MONDAYS: Australian watchmaker Nicholas Hacko’s maverick vision, and a reconfirmed 50-year warranty Time+Tide
Apr 27, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Australian watchmaker Nicholas Hacko’s maverick vision, and a reconfirmed 50-year warranty

Editor’s note: This week, we have something a little different for Micro Mondays. Instead of an interview, or review, it’s an open letter from Sydney-based Australian watchmaker, Nicholas Hacko. It was written for the second edition of NOW Magazine. We featured Nicholas Hacko by way of his kind offer to host a photo shoot starring … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Australian watchmaker Nicholas Hacko’s maverick vision, and a reconfirmed 50-year warranty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus in white gold with ghost grey dial is a total smokeshow Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 26, 2020

INTRODUCING: A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus in white gold with ghost grey dial is a total smokeshow

A. Lange & Söhne don’t always do things by the book. The year is 2019. The demand for steel luxury sports watches is at an all-time high. And along comes the brand’s brand new Odysseus model. The polarising design (with naysayers focusing on the thicc steel bracelet as a flaw) took the established trope of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus in white gold with ghost grey dial is a total smokeshow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watchmakers answer 7 tough questions about watch servicing, and dispel some common myths in the process Time+Tide
Apr 26, 2020

Watchmakers answer 7 tough questions about watch servicing, and dispel some common myths in the process

In a recent opinion piece, I extolled one of the central virtues of a modern luxury watch as being its viability for multi-generational use. But that is to presume the owner is going to be diligent with maintaining it. So, what’s the worst thing that can happen if you don’t service your watch?  I asked … ContinuedThe post Watchmakers answer 7 tough questions about watch servicing, and dispel some common myths in the process appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC’s 2020 collection is a vulgar display of design purity and power Time+Tide
IWC s 2020 collection Apr 26, 2020

IWC’s 2020 collection is a vulgar display of design purity and power

Credit where credit is due. There may well be global turmoil the likes of which we’ve never seen before, but IWC has taken all in their stride and released a brace of new watches in 2020 that are set to stun. Though quietly, and with the kind of confidence that doesn’t require theatrics. It is, … ContinuedThe post IWC’s 2020 collection is a vulgar display of design purity and power appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Andrew’s 5 early favourites from Watches & Wonders 2020, inc. Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and a watch named for us! Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Apr 25, 2020

Andrew’s 5 early favourites from Watches & Wonders 2020, inc. Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and a watch named for us!

It was all a bit mad, really. Trying to film an hour-long video that recaps 30-ish new watches, with research consisting of poring over various screens to take in the details of each watch ahead of the shoot. Then wrangling assets, and ringing in friends on Zoom (thank you Sandra, Nick and Christoph!), and achieving … ContinuedThe post Andrew’s 5 early favourites from Watches & Wonders 2020, inc. Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and a watch named for us! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.