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Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).
Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.
Chronograph scale converting flash-to-sound time into distance. WWI artillery-spotting origin; vintage Longines / Lemania / Heuer.
Chronograph scale reading heart rate in BPM after counting 15 or 30 pulse beats. The 1920s-60s doctor\'s watch standard.
Monochrome
Launched in 2022, Zenith’s Defy collection bridges the past and future in one fell swoop. The name dates to 1902 and refers to a line of robust pocket watches known as Defi. Following the launch of Zenith’s world-first high-frequency El Primero automatic chronograph movement, the Defy name was resuscitated for a line of hyper-robust, bulky […]
Monochrome
Zenith returns to the world of Japanese manga with the Chronomaster Revival Daisuke Jigen Edition. This new limited series once again turns an animated fantasy into a very tangible El Primero chronograph. The brand’s connection with Lupin the Third goes back to the early 1970s, when Daisuke Jigen, the sharp-suited marksman of the series, was […]
Monochrome
As temperatures drop and the snow-covered slopes beckon, Hublot gets into the winter spirit with two limited editions of its Big Bang Unico, the first model to host the brand’s in-house Unico chronograph movement. Capturing the beauty of the winter season, the Big Bang Unico returns in wintry attire, cloaked in ice-cold sapphire and a […]
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Seiko 6138-0049 Starting off this week with a bang, or rather a bull…head! This vintage Seiko 6138-0049 Bullhead chronograph is a real beauty. The massive steel case is excellent, unpolished with sharp edges and the original polished/brushed finish. The brown dial looks to be in superb condition, with no black funk on the lume or hands. The tachymeter bezel is equally superb. The watch comes on the correct and original fishbone steel bezel, which is always a plus. Seems like this is coming from the original owner, as it includes the original sales receipt. Sadly, no box or papers. However, the watch runs and functions as per the seller. Great opportunity for a really well preserved example of an awesome vintage Seiko chronograph. View auction here Vintage Aquadive Here’s a nice vintage Aquadive diver from probably the 1970s. The 36.5mm case is chrome plated with a steel back, and the plating is in really solid shape. The edges are nice and crisp as well. The dial is a really cool one, black and gray bullseye style with white painted hour markers and lume filled white baton hands. The orange seconds hand has a classic lume filled lollipop tip for easy reading. The aluminum elapsed ...
Monochrome
A powerful trend sweeping across the watch landscape is stone dials. Featured on everything from elegant dress watches to complications, there is no doubt that watches are living a second Stone Age. Celebrating its 160th anniversary, Zenith jumps on the stone dial bandwagon with its most technologically advanced and avant-garde chronograph, the mighty Defy Extreme, […]
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Worn & Wound
For the second time this week, TAG Heuer has introduced a rather audacious Monaco. Yesterday we told you about the all new Air 1, a flagship of sorts that puts all of TAG’s resources to bear on a split second chronograph with no compromises. Today, TAG debuts a Monaco that’s a bit more accessible but no less specialized, a watch that is meant for F1 fans celebrating the unique experience of the circuit’s night races. Even a casual F1 observer (I count myself in this category) can appreciate the spectacle of a night race. It’s a very different aesthetic experience than a race run during daylight hours, and the new limited edition Monaco seen here really leans into that night race vibe with some dramatic applications of color throughout. To start, it’s built on a 39mm titanium case that has been DLC coated, and given a skeletonized dial treatment that we’ve seen from a bunch of earlier Monaco limited editions at this point. Where this watch really sets itself apart though a gradient effect that is layered throughout the dial and unique lume application. Multiple lume colors are employed to draw the eye to either the chronograph or time telling functions, depending use case. The chronograph totalizers at 3 and 9 are rendered in blue, with turquoise hands, while green glowing lume is found on the primary hour and minute hands. There’s also additional purple lume throughout the minute track, and the bridges themselves have been given a gradient effect that range...
Hodinkee
The new Monaco Chronograph is inspired by Formula 1 night racing while the Split-Seconds Air 1 utilizes 'Selective Laser Melting' for the case.
Worn & Wound
Dubai Watch Week is upon us, and TAG Heuer is using it as a launching pad for for a new version of what is objectively one of the most impressive watches they’ve ever made. The Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1 builds on the Monaco Split-Seconds that was introduced at Watches & Wonders in 2024. That one, you’ll recall, had a movement fashioned largely from titanium and weighed in at just 85 grams. The retail price at the time was a head scratching CHF 135,000, but it was also an incredibly impressive caliber and feat of engineering. Rattrapante chronographs like this are indeed quite rare, and certainly one with a caliber made of titanium is unheard of and adds additional layers of complexity to whole endeavor. The new Air 1 version of the watch is still 85 grams, but it achieves that weight even with new solid gold components in the case. The design of the case, still in the iconic Monaco square, has been substantially reworked and inspired by design and manufacturing processes that are part of the Formula 1 landscape. The case has effectively been hollowed out, with intricately skeletonized case flanks designed to maximize the weight to performance ratio. TAG Heuer achieves this through a process they refer to as Selective Laser Melting (SLM). This is an additive manufacturing process that is typically applied in aerospace, medical, and automotive manufacturing, and like other forms of 3-D printing it’s essentially a cheat code in achieving otherwise impossi...
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer flexes its research and development muscles again with the performance-oriented Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1. Using the iconic square chronograph as a base, the brand’s engineers took inspiration from its Formula 1 partnership to explore new manufacturing techniques for this 30-piece limited edition that boasts an ultra-light, hollowed-out 18k gold case fabricated with laser additive manufacturing. Initial thoughts The original Monaco from Heuer remains one of the more enduring chronograph designs, with the storied past and distinctive square form. It is refreshing to see TAG Heuer using it as a base for newer, technologically-oriented pieces. This new limited edition takes the already-supercharged crystallised titanium split-seconds released earlier this year and reimagines the square case. The result is a honeycomb-patterned case that is surprisingly lightweight for the size and material. The complex and layered construction of the Air 1, here in an exploded view. The team at TAG Heuer employed a new additive manufacturing technique with the goal of a sturdy yet remarkably light chronograph. Keeping in mind that gold is a dense (thus heavy) metal, making a watch that qualifies as “lightweight” is usually incompatible with including the precious alloy. Here the engineers came up with a way to reduce the volume of gold used, while keeping the components’ sturdiness intact. The timepiece itself can be a little much in terms of styling, with the ...
Teddy Baldassarre
High-end watches and high-performance cars have long been intertwined, and the cross section between watch aficionados and car-racing enthusiasts has always been large. So it makes sense that "racing watches" - i.e., watches built to be worn and used in the arena of motorsports, many with automobile design language built into their aesthetic DNA - have long represented a popular sub-genre in the wider luxury sport-watch universe. Here we spotlight 20 auto-racing watches from 19 brands (one brand merited two entries on the list; we think you'll agree which one), ranging in price from eminently affordable to super-luxury. We've included some acknowledged icons of the genre as well as watches from a few brands you may not have considered. Gentlemen (and ladies), start your engines... and we're off! [toc-section heading="Vaer RS1 Rally Chronograph"] Price: $249, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 11.8mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Seiko VK63 Mechaquartz Vaer founders Ryan Torres and Reagan Cook pooled their collective life savings to start their own watch brand because “we couldn’t afford the watches we liked and didn’t like the ones we could afford.” Based in Venice, California, Vaer released its first watches, assembled overseas, in 2017, and began manufacturing in the U.S. just one year later. The RS1 Rally Chronographs take their cues from timepieces worn by race car drivers in the 1960s and ‘70s and...
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Fratello
The Brew Metric Teddy Baldassarre Edition brings together Brew’s coffee-themed Metric chronograph and YouTuber-turned-retailer Teddy Baldassarre. This special edition keeps the Metric’s compact 36mm case and VK68 mecha-quartz movement while adding a layered blue dial, a revised handset, and a new engraved case back. The collaboration traces back to a 2018 conversation between Teddy and […] Visit Introducing: The Brew Metric Teddy Baldassarre Edition to read the full article.
Hodinkee
The new Chronomaster Sport Chronograph brings a slew of technical updates to the El Primero caliber.
Time+Tide
This Peren chronograph is also the brand's first watch without an overt Transylvanian source of inspiration - but that's no bad thing.The post The Peren One brings mechaquartz practicality to a clean bi‑compax design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Hollywood star was spotted wearing TAG Heuer's quirky, complicated chronograph with a twist.The post Miles Teller hosts SNL and promotes new film “Eternity” wearing a TAG Heuer x Porsche Chronosprint appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The Studio Underd0g × Massena Lab 03Series Champagne & Caviar has just been uncorked, and it’s as spirited as its name suggests. This limited-edition monopusher chronograph merges Studio Underd0g’s tongue-in-cheek British design with William Massena’s connoisseur’s eye. The resulting watch celebrates excess. The dial blends the soft glow of champagne with the dark sheen of […] Visit Introducing: The Studio Underd0g × Massena Lab 03Series Champagne & Caviar to read the full article.
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Time+Tide
Evoking opulence, the "big-eye" monopusher chronograph features distinctive dial tones and textures, in true Studio Underd0g style.The post Studio Underd0g and Massena LAB serve up a luxury pairing with the Champagne & Caviar 03SERIES appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Many superlatives have been ascribed to what might be the most valuable watch this fall auction season – the Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in stainless steel. Headlining Phillips’ upcoming auction in Geneva, the steel ref. 1518 is paradoxically extraordinary and ordinary all at once. As the first serially-produced perpetual calendar-chronograph wristwatch, the ref. 1518 is already a landmark Patek Philippe wristwatch, one that spawned a lineage that includes the refs. 2499, 3970, and 5970. And then there’s the ref. 1518 in steel – only four are known. The steel ref. 1518 has rarity, historical importance, and an eight-figure value; but on the wrist, this “holy grail” is compact, lightweight, and monochromatic, discreetly low-key. At a diminutive 35 mm in diameter, the ref. 1518 is small by today’s standards. The watch doesn’t look like much on the wrist from across a room; in fact, it isn’t immediately obvious to a layperson (or even a casual watch enthusiast) that the watch is worth more than most houses and vintage Ferraris. Yet the ref. 1518 in steel is appealing for many intellectual reasons: extreme rarity, historical lineage of the perpetual calendar chronograph, even sheer value. This is a trophy in many senses. Historically, the ref. 1518 was important even in its time. It was once Patek Philippe’s most complicated regular production wristwatch, and the steel ref. 1518 was likely the most expensive steel Patek Philippe when it was in the catalogue. ...
SJX Watches
Philips’ upcoming sale in Geneva from November 8-9 includes two timepieces owned by John Pierpont Morgan Jr., widely known as Jack Morgan. Heir to a financial empire, Morgan was the first chairman of what is now JPMorganChase, and more pertinently, inherited the sensibilities of his father, J. Pierpont Morgan Sr., in collecting and gifting. Morgan Sr. was a collector on a grand scale, and across categories. The catalogues of his collections spanned volumes – two books for Chinese porcelain, four for miniatures, and a single volume for his watches and clocks, albeit a 350-page tome that weighed almost 6 kg in its original edition. The penchant for collecting was passed on to Jack Morgan, who evidently had sharp tastes in watches and clocks. The two timepieces going on the block at Phillips illustrate that. One is the first-ever Cartier mystery clock, a Model A sold to Morgan in 1913. And the other is one example of the “Morgan caliper”, a series of minute repeating, split-second chronograph, tourbillon pocket watches made for J.P. Morgan & Co., which were gifted by Morgan Sr. and Jack Morgan to the firm’s partners and important associates. Titans of finance In 1913, Louisiana senator Arsène Pujo formed the Pujo Committee to investigate the growing concentration of financial power in the United States. The committee found that an inner circle of partners at J.P. Morgan & Co. and its two largest proxies held 341 directorship positions across the boards of 34 majo...
Time+Tide
French microbrands Neotype has brought two panda dials to the fore, for its likeable LM02 Type C chronograph.The post Neotype jazzes up its “ultimate multipurpose tool watch”, the LM02 Type C, with panda dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Nomos has had an incredibly interesting trajectory among watch enthusiasts over the past decade or so. If you got into the hobby at a certain time, Nomos was almost certainly one of the first “forum brands” that you’d be introduced to as a level up from some of the core enthusiast watches that you might be able to scrounge for in your local department store or pick up on Amazon. Nomos (and Sinn, and a handful of other brands) required a bit more expense, and a bit more effort to get your arms around, but once you did, you really felt like you were part of the club (no pun intended). And then things kind of settled. The enthusiasts who cut their teeth on Nomos did what enthusiasts always do, and discovered other cool things as the watch community migrated from the antiquated forums to Facebook and Instagram. Nomos never stopped releasing good watches, but there was a sliver of time when it felt like they were improving rapidly and we’d have exciting new releases from them on a regular basis. It didn’t really turn out that way – they’ve largely iterated on core designs, offering new sizes (usually bigger) and sportier specs (bracelets, and better water resistance). The hypothetical Nomos chronograph that I can recall so many anonymous forum users speculating about never materialized, and it seems like the brand has become very comfortable simply being Nomos and making Nomos watches. Things changed a bit this year at Watches & Wonders with the release of the...
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Worn & Wound
It’s that time again. The air is getting crisper, the days are getting shorter, and, for better or for worse, the realization that winter will soon set in is becoming more and more real. If you’re like me, and dread fighting snowy streets and icey…everything, this is a less than exciting time. But if you’re Omega? Well, that’s a different story. They are in countdown mode to the 2026 Winter Olympics in Milano Cortina, and they’ve just released a new Speedmaster to mark 100 days from the start of the games. The Speedmaster Milano Cortina 2026 is built on the 38mm Speedmaster platform, and comes in a stainless steel case that measures 14.75mm tall. The dial is evocative of the snowy mountains that will be the setting for the games for next year, with a varnished white surface and subtle blue accents that evoke the Milano Cortina 2026 logo. The blue ceramic bezel and blue CVD coated hour markers keep the theme coherent and appropriately wintery. Another nice detail is that the chronograph hand has a gradient finish, going from light blue at its base to dark blue at its tip. Also, when the date window shows the 26th of the month, it does so in the typeface of the Milano Cortina logo. The Speedmaster Milano Cortina 2026 runs on the Caliber 3330, an automatic movement with over 50 hours of power reserve and COSC certification. This, of course, is not a traditionalist’s Speedy, but more akin to the “Reduced” models of an earlier era. The 38mm size is easy to...
Worn & Wound
I have a reputation among family, friends, and colleagues for being car crazy, and though my obsession with motor vehicles tends to lean more towards Sunday cruises and wrenching rather than pure motorsports, I always appreciate a good lap-timer on my watches. That appreciation quickly turns to excitement when the watch in question veers away from the legions of brawny, busy chronographs on the market, and towards a more targeted design ethos, particularly anything midcentury modern. Enter the C-1 Chrono, the latest timepiece in the C-1 line from young British brand Aera. While not their first motorsport watch, the new C-1 Chrono takes aesthetic cues from the Porsche-inspired C-1 Rennsport and simplifies them down to a more legible, streamlined whole. The most striking element is, of course, the reverse-panda color scheme; a matte black dial, devoid of markings save for a very, very fine minute track around the outer diameter, allows the two matte white chronograph subdials at 6 and 9 o’clock to pop aggressively. The red hour, minute, and chronograph hands, and red and white seconds hand add that touch of automotive flair, bringing the aesthetic straight into the cockpit of a golden era sports car. The sans-serif Aera logo wears Globolight to glow white in low-light conditions, while the hands are coated in Grade X1 Swiss Super-Luminova. Like their other C-1 watches, the Chrono is housed in a chunky 42mm brushed stainless steel case, measuring 49.55mm lug-to-lug. Two p...
Fratello
Hermès surprised us a couple of years ago when the French fashion house launched a chronograph among its colorful time-and-date H08 editions. Stealth-launching products is not new for Hermès. The low-key tactic allows clients to discover new pieces for themselves without a deluge of flashy hype campaigns. The gentle marketing ripple in the brand’s horology […] Visit Introducing: The Hermès H08 Chronographe In Naples Yellow to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The cal. 4132 inside the Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” is a rare evolution of one of the most revered chronograph movements in modern watchmaking. Based on the long-running cal. 4130 platform, the new movement was developed specifically for the Daytona “Le Mans” unveiled in 2023 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the famed endurance race. While visually similar to the cal. 4131 found in current-production Daytonas, the cal. 4132 incorporates a clever mechanical upgrade that allows it to record up to 24 hours of elapsed time. Given the relatively simple upgrade from a 12-hour to 24-hour counter, the cal. 4132 might seem like a weekend project for a brand with the engineering might of Rolex, but the reality is more nuanced. To achieve this, Rolex engineered a compact differential gear set that doubles the timing capacity without altering the core movement architecture, leaving the movement dimensions unchanged. As with many Rolex innovations, the cal. 4132 reflects the brand’s quiet obsession with functional longevity and serviceability. The latest Daytona movements reveal a degree of decorative finishing unseen in past generations of Rolex movements An already quirky base For over two decades, the Rolex cal. 4130 stood as the benchmark for industrial chronograph movements. Launched in 2000, the cal. 4130 was the first in-house chronograph movement developed by Rolex. The movement was lauded for its compact architecture, low component count, and ease of service – a...
Monochrome
Chronographs come in all sorts of shapes, sizes and colours, so it’s hard to pinpoint the very best. What helps is the possibility to sub-categorise them, thanks to the fact that there are so many different ones. One class of chronographs that always seems to gather plenty of attention is the two-register, or bicompax chronograph. […]
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