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Three-link semi-circular Rolex bracelet introduced for the 1956 Day-Date; Crownclasp closure.
1970s-80s lacquered colour dials for Rolex Day-Date; red / turquoise / salmon / lavender. Auction range $200k-$1M+.
Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).
40 mm × 11.85 mm, lug 21 mm, Cal. 3255
Quill & Pad
Any time is an appropriate time to gift a watch lover with a book containing well-written words and beautiful photos of watches. At Quill & Pad we love reading books as much as we love writing them (on occasion). Here is a selection of books we have reviewed and written, suitable for gifting or reading at any time of year.
SJX Watches
The latest figures from trade body Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH) show a massive fall in Swiss watch exports to Hong Kong, a statistic that is proxy for sales of luxury watches. According to the FH numbers for the month of October 2019, exports to Hong Kong fell 29.7% to 191.3m Swiss francs. This comes after a more measured, 4.6% drop in September. Exports to Hong Hong have now fallen below those to China, which rose 10.8% to 218.4m francs. Enjoying a 11.2% rise to 227.5m francs is the United States, which was the largest market for Swiss watches in October. For the year to date, Hong Kong remains the world’s largest market for Swiss watches, though the gap between it and the second-placed United States is falling. Hong Kong imported 2.26 billion francs of Swiss watches in the year to date – a fall of 8.8% compared to the same period las year – compared to 1.97 billion francs for the United States. Pedder Street in Hong Kong’s Central business district, ordinarily a shopping paradise. Photo – Hong Kong Tourism Board The drop in watch exports to the city confirm industry talk that the luxury goods has been hard hit by the six months of protests that have roiled Hong Kong. Shops located in the worst affected areas can only stay open for a fraction of a business day, or not at all on some days. Several executives from both watch brands and retailers in the territory have cited consecutive, month-on-month drops in store sales that reach into the double d...
SJX Watches
Having made its debut in Paris earlier in the year, the Clash de Cartier pop-up studio is making its first stop in Southeast Asia. Soon to open at the STPI Creative Workshop & Gallery in Singapore, the studio uses displays focused on music, art and literature to showcase the Clash de Cartier jewellery collection. The exhibition is structured around the concept of the Clash de Cartier, a newly launched range of jewellery characterised by contradictions and duality – bold yet delicate, structured yet – for a slightly punk-style look. The journey begins with a questionnaire that will direct visitors to their first room – either the Record Room or Bookstore. In the Record Room, visitors will be invited to listen to a playlist, curated by French sound designer Michel Gaubert, through sound shower speakers installed in the room. The playlist will consist of clashing genres of music from classical to rock. In the same vein, the Bookstore was curated to showcase opposing genres. Visitors will be able to take a short personality test to determine their “alter ego”m which will be then be translated into a haiku by actual poets at the venue. Lastly, guests can convene at the café and enjoy a complimentary pastry and drink inspired by the mix of eastern and western cultures in Singapore. Half of the café will be furnished with local décor, while the other half will be fitted out with contemporary European furniture. Exhibition details Dates: November 15-17, 2019 Time: 11...
Quill & Pad
Part two of Sotheby's Masterworks of Time offers more than 30 impressive masterpieces from A. Lange & Söhne’s illustrious history as well as rare pocket watches by Adolf Schneider, who worked alongside Ferdinand Adolph Lange in Glashütte, their master Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes, and many other historical delicacies sure to have your heart beating faster!
SJX Watches
This year’s GPHG saw a total of no less than 196 watches entered into the running for one of the night’s awards. The jury, presided over by Aurel Bacs, then pre-selected 84 models, divided into 14 categories. The latter included four new awards – the Iconic Watch, Diver’s Watch, Calendar and Astronomy and Horological Revelation. The outcome is similar to last year’s, with a strong ratio of independents among the winners. Out of 18 watch awards, eight were awarded to independents including Kudoke (Petite Aiguille), Ming (Horological Revelation) and newcomer Genus, (Mechanical Exception), while virtuoso watchmaker Voutilainen scooped two awards (Men’s Watch and Artistic Crafts). The biggest winner of the evening was Audemars Piguet who took home three awards including the top prize – the Aiguille d’Or – for its Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. The watch is the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar at just 6.3mm in height, achieved primarily by using a modified ultra-thin cal. 2120 as a base with a smartly designed perpetual calendar module on top that has an integrated end-of-month cam on the date wheel and a 48-month wheel with a novel geometry. Elsewhere, having lost to Genus in the Mechanical Exception category, Vacheron Constantin clinched the Innovation award with its Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar. The watch addresses the problem of having to reset a perpetual calendar that has lain dormant. It utilises two balances osci...
SJX Watches
When IWC celebrated its 150th anniversary last year, it unveiled a large line-up of commemorative watches, including the clever and well-priced Tribute to Pallweber digital jump hour (and also opened an expansive new factory). But there was one more anniversary that has been pretty much a company secret until now: the Mark XVIII gifted to staff members at IWC headquarters in Schaffhausen. Over lunch yesterday, I spotted the Mark XVIII on the wrist of IWC museum curator David Seyffer. Given Dr Seyffer’s position – and access to some of the rarest and most desirable IWC watches – I was surprised that he was wearing the entry-level Pilot’s Watch. But when Dr Seyffer handed the watch over, he explained, with an evident amount of pride, this was no ordinary Mark XVIII. On the front, the watch has a 40mm steel case and metallic, dark blue dial that’s similar to a standard watch in the IWC Pilot’s Watch line-up. But on the back, it features the IWC 150th anniversary emblem, and just below that, the name of the employee who received the watch. According to Dr Seyffer, it was chief executive Chris Grainger-Herr’s idea to gift each employee at IWC headquarters a watch as a token of appreciation for their contribution to IWC’s 150 years of success. Male employees were given a Mark XVIII on a black Santoni leather strap, while female staff members were given a Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36 on a steel bracelet. The total number produced is unknown, but IWC has about 700...
SJX Watches
IWC’s latest limited edition is a surprisingly small run – 80 pieces to mark the 80th anniversary of the flight of the giant Latécoère 521 flying boat Lieutenant de Vaisseau Paris from New York to Lac de Biscarrosse in Southwestern France. Starting on Bastille Day, July 14, in 1939, the flight was the first nonstop crossing of the North Atlantic by flying boat. A passenger on the 28-hour, 27-minute journey was French aviator Antoine de Saint Exupéry. And it happens that one of IWC’s most popular sub-collections of pilot’s watches watches is Le Petit Prince, named after the famous novel by de Saint Exupéry. So the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph Edition “80 Years Flight to New York” is an offshoot of the Le Petit Prince collection, with a few tweaks. It retains the vaguely retro flavour, with Gothic-esque numerals and lozenge hands, but instead of the standard blue dial of Le Petit Prince, the anniversary watch has a brown metallic dial, matched with brown ceramic bezel. The edition is based on the Timezoner Chronograph, usually available only in the standard black and white livery of IWC’s basic Pilot’s Watches. It’s an unusual watch that combines both a flyback chronograph and IWC’s proprietary “timezoner” mechanism. Originally developed by the defunct watch brand Vogard, the timezoner mechanism has a rotating world time bezel linked to the second time zone, so turning the bezel moves the 24-hour hand in one-hour ste...
Hodinkee
And today we're talking long balls.
SJX Watches
Starting this weekend, the theatre inside Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands resort will become home to the epic, 16-day Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition, the biggest and longest such event ever staged by the brand. Open from 28 September to 13 October, the enormous showcase of horological artefacts and prowess will take visitors through the company’s history while delving into its many innovations and milestones. Divided into 10 themed rooms, the exhibition will present a comprehensive array of timepieces spanning centuries, including the first ever perpetual calendar wristwatch, as well as legendary grand complications like the record-setting Calibre 89. Some 400 timepiece will be on display – all detailed in a hardbound catalogue that will be sold to benefit charity – and here are seven highlights of the show that are worth a second look. The first perpetual calendar wristwatch Although the distinction of inventing the first perpetual calendar watch goes to English watchmaker Thomas Mudge, who created it in 1762 – and the Patek Philippe Museum owns one such Mudge creation – it was Patek Philippe that built the first ever perpetual calendar in a wristwatch, back in 1925. It was a one-off creation powered by a movement dating to 1898. Initially developed for a women’s pendant watch, the compact calibre only found a home 27 years later inside the landmark wristwatch. Crucially, it was also an instantaneous perpetual calendar, with calendar i...
Time+Tide
When it came up that a review of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato was on the editorial agenda, Felix cocked an eyebrow and said, “Are you going to write about your reaction when you first saw it?” Yes, I thought, when the time comes, I will. So here we are. The day that I first laid eyes … ContinuedThe post MY WEEK WITH: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph, and how I got completely turned around to loving it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
In this week's Throwback Sundays column, we will be taking a look at six chronograph alternatives to the elusive Rolex Cosmograph Daytona.
SJX Watches
Watches once owned by prominent personalities are captivating. Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman” Daytona, the Rolex “Bao Dai”, Buzz Aldrin’s Speedmaster Moonwatch, the Henry Graves Supercomplication, and even J. Pierpont Morgan’s lost pocket watch, are amongst most sought after timepieces in the world. In fact, a good number of the most expensive watches ever sold at auction have notable provenance, which turns a mere watch into a historical artefact. Probably the most important timekeepers in cycling, these are a pair of Longines split-seconds stop watches – refs. 7411 and 8350 respectively – that were used by Jean Pitallier, the former president of the French Cycling Federation, to time the Tour de France in the fading glory days of mechanical sports timing, just before quartz stopwatches took over. In fact, the pair of stopwatches are not merely chronographs, but also observatory certified chronometers. Watchmaking once represented the cutting edge research of mechanical engineering. Observatory time trials at Neuchatel, Geneva or Kew were rigorous scientific affairs, with movements Peseux 260 and Zenith 135 competing to be the most accurate movement in the world. But such movements were three-hand, time-only. Aside from tourbillon movements, very few complicated calibres were submitted to timing contests. Mr Pitallier’s pair of Longines were both certified by the Neuchatel observatory. The swan song of competitive timekeeping In modern day watch collectin...
Time+Tide
Some of my favourite releases from SIHH 2019 were the watches from the IWC Spitfire collection, which offers a host of twists on their classic pilot’s collection, and a few special limited editions - like the Timezoner Spitfire Edition “The Longest Flight”. At SIHH we also learned more about the story of this watch, or … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The Silver Spitfire’s epic 27,000-mile trip starts today (and IWC is on board) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Many great human endeavours that Rolex has been part of have a distinctly earthly ring to them. From Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay summiting the world’s tallest mountain to Jacques Piccard reaching the deepest point in the oceans, or even Fidel Castro journeying through Cuba’s rainforests, a great deal of the planet has been covered with a Rolex keeping time. While Geneva watchmaking giant has sponsored various explorers over the decades, its focus has now shifted subtly, but substantially. Rolex will support ecologically minded explorers of the natural world, specifically to help them learn how to preserve it. Named Perpetual Planet, this doubtlessly well funded initiative consolidates three of the company’s key partnerships – the Rolex Awards for Enterprise, its longterm association with the National Geographic Society, and Mission Blue, led by American oceanographer Sylvia Earle. The Wilsdorf legacy While it is easy to be cynical about a maker of luxury watches claiming to do good, charity is not merely a box to be ticked at Rolex. The founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf, had no children and upon his death in 1960, gifted his ownership of the watch brand to an eponymous foundation that’s one of the largest charitable foundations in Europe. Though it operates discreetly, the foundation does so on an immense scale, especially in relation to its home country, which is wealthy but small. From saving the Geneva’s football club to bankrolling the...
Time+Tide
This week marks the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 mission that saw Neil Armstrong walk on the moon. And on his wrist was an Omega Speedmaster. This moment ensured that the humble, manually wound chronograph was vaulted into the hallowed halls of history. But the Speedmaster story is about more than just that moonwatch. … ContinuedThe post 5 Omega Speedmasters that made it the legend it is today, and their modern equivalent appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We explore six watches to blow the stash of money in your piggy bank fund in anticipation of a PP Nautilus 5711/1a, as you are possibly never gonna get one.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: To celebrate the Aquanaut’s 20th birthday in 2017, Patek Philippe released the enlarged (from 40 to 42.2mm) and quietly in charge Aquanaut ref. 5168G. a watch that remains a reminder of the collection’s youth. In more recent years, the model has struck confident new poses such as the ref 5968A chronograph, with its popping orange … ContinuedThe post This is why the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 20th Birthday edition was such an important signal of things to come appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
We reserve a moment to remember one of the most momentous days of the 20th century, and the timepieces that soldiers on the ‘good’ side wore to war.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: It’s 2019, and along with the feeling that drone-delivered pizza is imminent, many people are also experiencing some form of existential apocalyptic angst. And rather than tell you that it’s all going to be OK, we’d suggest you prepare by watching a few series of Doomsday Preppers and reading this list. We’re sure … ContinuedThe post 5 watches to survive the end of the world, just in case things really kick off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: There were some notable absences at Baselworld 2019. A new Milgauss from Rolex, a new Monaco from TAG Heuer; in fact, the only birthday that happened on schedule, apart from the barnstorming return of Doxa in time for its 130th, was the glorious profusion of Zenith El Primero models. But no missing model was quite … ContinuedThe post ‘Too big, too chunky, not versatile…’ Why the Fifty-Eight was the answer to this guy’s Tudor Black Bay blues … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If the increasingly frantic targeted ads in my Instagram feed for fancy underwear and/or chocolate are anything to go by, Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. Well, if you’re reading this and have left your extravagant-show-of-affection-giftstravaganza run a little late, don’t worry. We - or rather Blancpain - have your back. Say hello to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Love is in the air – Blancpain’s Villeret Women Quantième Phases de Lune appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
A surprisingly compact – yet unsurprisingly efficient – workspace guarantees the quality of every Tudor watch sold today.
Deployant
This week, we take a look at six alternatives to highly popular watches - such as the Rolex Daytona, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and Patek Philippe Nautilus.
Time+Tide
If you happen to be a watch fan or a space enthusiast, this Thursday in Australia is the day you’ve been waiting for, with the opening of Universal Pictures’ First Man. Based on the book by James R. Hansen, the movie chronicles the life of Neil Armstrong in the years leading up to the historic Apollo … ContinuedThe post NEWS: More than Moonwatches – these are the Omegas you can expect to spot in new moon film First Man appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Throwback Sunday: Six highly desirable, modestly priced watches which you may not be able to buy. From Rolex, Patek Philippe, Tudor, Omega and Citizen.
Time+Tide
In a clip produced by Vanity Fair to coincide with the release of Ozark Season 2 on Netflix, Jason Bateman, Laura Linney and Julia Garner explain Ozark ‘hillbilly’ slang. We’re sure you’ll agree that they all play second fiddle to the 1979 Rolex Daytona hanging casually from Bateman’s wrist throughout. It’s not the first time we’ve spotted it on Bateman … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: Ozark’s Jason Bateman continues to live his best vintage Rolex Daytona life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
What do you after winning your World Cup bets? In this week's article, we have six watch recommendations for you to spend your money on.
Deployant
In this week's Throwback Sundays, we are looking at six watch recommendations for couples to share. Click here to find out what we have chosen!
Time+Tide
A little while ago we got mildly excited about the fact that Longines were auctioning off a watch (and an awesome experience package) in aid of brand ambassador Kate Winslet’s charity. Well, they’re at it again, only this time with a sporty twist. Longines, along with Steffi Graf and Andre Agassi (who both have been … ContinuedThe post NEWS: You’ve got 3 days to bid on some exceptionally limited Longines to support Andre Agassi and Steffi Graf’s charities appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
One of the Raymond Weil’s great strengths has always been stylish, sharp, everyday dress pieces, something that’s really epitomised in the Maestro line. Well, at Basel that line got a little bigger, with the addition of three new, blue-dialled options. These watches, like many things in the world of Raymond Weil, take their inspiration from … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Chase the blues away – 3 new models added to Raymond Weil’s classical Maestro family appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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