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Christopher Ward Introduces Apr 23, 2025

Christopher Ward Introduces the C12 Loco

Out to replicate the success of the Bel Canto and prove it’s not a one-hit wonder, Christopher Ward has introduced the C12 Loco. While the integrated bracelet look is now commonplace, the Loco breaks new ground for the British brand in terms of its differentiated movement architecture, and features an inverted free-sprung balance on the dial side of the watch. Spiritual successor to the Bel Canto, the C12 Loco paints a picture of Christopher Ward’s ambitions as a brand. Like Louis Erard, which is on a similar mission to make traditional craft and independent design more accessible, Christopher Ward is looking to redefine what collectors should expect from entry level watchmaking. Initial thoughts The Twelve is Christopher Ward’s foray into integrated bracelet sport watches. Its launch in 2023 was not without some controversy, being seen as too similar to the Czapek Antarctique; it turned out both designs came from the mind of designer Adrian Buchmann. Despite the rocky start, the collection has been a commercial success and the brand has done a commendable job developing the line-up and keeping prices in check. The Loco is the most ambitious Twelve to-date, with an off-center time display that opens up space at six o’clock for an exposed balance wheel and escapement. Like the Bel Canto, the watch does not feature the Christopher Ward brand name on the dial. In an era when attention is the name of the game, it’s nice to see a small brand with the confidence to let...

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Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual C... Apr 22, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary

Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th anniversary with the record-setting, most-complicated-watch-ever, the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. Fortunately, the celebratory line-up also includes the more affordable: one step down in the collection is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary. Less complicated than the Solaria, but still one of the top-of-the-line anniversary offerings, the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is an entirely new model, rather than an existing model dressed in anniversary livery. The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar combines the self-winding cal. 2160 with a perpetual calendar mechanism, while both the dial and movement get the 270th anniversary-exclusive treatment. Initial thoughts The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is a fairly large but thin watch, with a clean, traditional design with tasteful elaboration. Formal on its face, the watch gets more interesting up close with the anniversary decor on the dial and movement. Overall, the look and feel is elegant; essentially the type of watch that Vacheron Constantin (VC) does well. The execution is high quality and typical of an established, industrial-artisanal brand. The tourbillon bridge and cage stand out as being especially finely finished. Notably, the guilloche on the dial is done the traditional way, on a hand-operated straight-line engine – which is necessary for a watch of this price – while on the entry-level anniversary models the same pattern is achieved via stam...

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Vacheron Constantin Apr 21, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001

Patek Philippe came to Watches & Wonders 2025 with a deep bench of strong new releases, but for fans of the classic Calatrava, the standout was without question the Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001. It’s an easy watch to love, with good proportions, a hefty 38 mm platinum case, a lively “salmon” dial, and is powered by the brand’s latest generation movement. Though the brand was arguably overshadowed this year by its suburban Geneva neighbors Rolex and Vacheron Constantin, at lower and higher ends of the price spectrum, respectively, Patek Philippe demonstrated its ability to deliver in every category, from simple dress and sport watches to mid and high complications. Initial thoughts In February 2017 I was asked what I wished to see from Baselworld that year. I said I’d like to see a successor to the ref. 5196 with a case-filling movement and a large balance. Eight years later, Patek Philippe delivered more or less exactly what I imagined, keeping the proportions and details of the classic Calatrava with a more advanced movement than the outdated cal. 215 that was used at the time. So in a sense, this watch was made for me.  But I had not anticipated a “salmon” dial. Officially labelled “rose-gilt opaline” by Patek Philippe, such dials have become popular among collectors, and are now a staple across the Patek Philippe collection. Naturally, a vivid colour like this helps an otherwise simple watch stand out, but personally I look forward to more toned down iter...

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Bovet Apr 17, 2025

Bovet Scales Down the Daylight-Savings World Time

Following the launch of the uber, multi-function world time last year, Bovet Fleurier continues its exploration of time zones with the Récital 30, a simpler, everyday-wear evolution on its complex predecessor. Initial thoughts The Récital 30 is more accessible both in terms of function and price, and more restrained in terms of design; overall it’s a more wearable version of the full-fledged original. The new world time caters to a different customer from last year’s Récital 28, the client who doesn’t necessarily care for lavish decorations or extreme complexity, but seeks a forward-thinking, wearable world time with some unique functionality. While the accessibility of this should be applauded – it costs almost one-tenth the Recital 28 – this does leave the impression of a watered-down creation. There is almost no lavish movement decoration visible, instead the dial fully covers the face. And the calibre only incorporates one complication, admittedly one executed in a complex manner. World time indication At its core, the Récital 30 is built on the same principles that underpin its pricier bigger brother, namely the clever roller world time system. This ingenious mechanical solution allows seamless adjustments across 25 distinct time zones, including GMT+5:30 for New Delhi, India, which is offset by an inconvenient 30 minutes. The beauty of the system is its calibration for four distinct annual periods: Coordinated Universal Time (UTC), American Summer Time...

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Patek Philippe Apr 16, 2025

Obituary: René Beyer, Owner of the World’s Oldest Watch Store

René Beyer, the eighth-generation owner of Beyer Chronometrie in Zurich, died suddenly on April 13, 2025, at the age of 61​. Beyer was a towering figure in Swiss watchmaking circles, known not only for helming his family’s 260-year-old business, but also for his passionate stewardship of its famed clock and watch museum, his warm ties with independent watchmakers, and his family’s close relationship with Patek Philippe. He is survived by his wife. Beyer’s passing was first reported by Zurich newspaper Inside Paradeplatz. Born in 1963 into the Beyer dynasty that began in Germany in 1760, Beyer grew up surrounded by clocks and watches. Like his father, Theodor “Teddy” René Beyer, he qualified as a watchmaker himself​, learning the business from the ground up. Beyer’s role in the family business started in 1986 when his father suffered a heart attack and was forced to step back. A decade later, Beyer had formally taken over as managing director and proprietor of Beyer Chronometrie, becoming the eighth generation to run the venerable retailer​, which first opened in Zurich in 1822. Unlike many of its peers that expanded nationally and internationally, the business remained a local operation in Zurich. Like many watch retailers of the old-school, Beyer was synonymous with his store. The store on Bahnhofstrasse, the main shopping street of Zurich A retailer and curator During his nearly three decades at the helm, Beyer carried on his father’s legacy and bol...

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Audemars Piguet s New Ceramic Apr 16, 2025

Audemars Piguet’s New Ceramic is the Same Hue as the Royal Oak 5402

“Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” was the colour code for the original Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 5402 ST of 1972, and now Audemars Piguet has translated the dark blue shade into its latest ceramic. Making its debut in three Royal Oak models, including the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic is restrained and a departure from the bright, almost electric blue of the brand’s earlier blue ceramic. Initial thoughts Ceramic is a material that lends itself well to the Royal Oak design; the brushed and polished surfaces that are the trademark Royal Oak surface finishing look good with the hardness and glossiness of ceramic. The earlier bright blue ceramic used by AP was too bright in my opinion. The new dark blue hue, on the other hand, feels just nice. The downside of an all-ceramic Royal Oak is the price. The Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph with a matching ceramic bracelet costs almost US$90,000, double the price of the steel equivalent and almost as much as the gold model. According to AP, the cost is primarily due to the difficult in finishing the ceramic – every element of the case and bracelet is brushed or polished by hand – which is true, but it’s still expensive. The most affordable model with the new ceramic only has its bezel and pushers in ceramic ” Night blue” According to AP, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” (which translates as “night blue, cloud 50”) was the code for the dark blue, almost grey, in the catalogue of Stern...

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Apr 15, 2025

Event: Fireside Chat with Philippe Dufour in Singapore, April 18, 2025 (CLOSED)

With Phillips’ Geneva auction in May selling several watches to benefit the Philippe and Elisabeth Dufour Foundation, Philippe Dufour himself will be in Singapore during the preview exhibition for the sale. On April 18, 2025, the noted independent watchmaker will be the guest at a fireside chat alongside Thomas Perazzi, Phillips’ head of watches for Asia, moderated by myself. *Registrations are closed as venue is at max capacity. Thank you for the interest.* Mr Dufour will be speaking about his life and work, as well as the foundation’s mission and the upcoming charity auction where several watches will be sold to benefit the foundation. The highlight of the sale is the unique Philippe Dufour Simplicity with a 37 mm pink gold case with a dial inlaid with butterfly wings (pictured above). Registration and preview Seats are limited due to venue capacity and registration is required to attend the panel. Please RSVP on Phillips.com. *Registrations are closed as venue is at max capacity. Thank you for the interest.* The preview exhibition for the Phillips’ spring auction season, including lots from the Geneva, Hong Kong, and New York sales, takes place on April 18 and 19, 2025, 11 am-6 pm daily, at the Singapore Edition hotel.  

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Patek Philippe Ref 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph Apr 15, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph Brown Enamel

One of the most beautiful, albeit not particularly novel, debuts at Watches & Wonders recently was the Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph with a two-tone grand feu enamel dial in brown and cream. It’s merely a new variant of a longstanding model, but it is striking. Prior versions were in platinum with a black and then blue enamel dial; this is the first model in rose gold and perhaps the first-ever modern-day Patek Philippe with a multi-part, two-tone enamel dial. Design aside, the ref. 5370R retains the same specs and movement as its predecessors. Initial thoughts I usually don’t like brown dials, and the ref. 5370R is merely a cosmetic tweak. The movement remains the same CHR 29-535 PS that is good looking and contains some clever technical features, but its decoration could be a little more artisanal for the price. Overall, the ref. 5370R isn’t fundamentally new. And despite being in rose gold, it’s even more expensive than its predecessors in platinum, with a retail price crossing US$300,000. Being a Patek Philippe, the ref. 5370R is expensive, in the same manner that Ferrari and Hermes can charge more than the competition. But despite so much going against it, the ref. 5370R is one of the few watches that has remained in my memory in the weeks after W&W;. It is simply that beautiful. As the saying goes, if I could, I would. The new ref. 5370 looks classical yet modern, and still captures the old school Patek Philippe aesthetic. The two-ton...

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Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Take Apr 14, 2025

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA

Take a moment to think about the characteristics that would make the perfect everyday watch; what would you come up with? The list would probably include things like maximum precision, minimum weight, an agreeable size with good ergonomics, and a design that is at home in both formal and casual environments. It also wouldn’t cost a fortune. That might as well have been the design brief for the new Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive Ultra Fine Accuracy (UFA) SLGB001 and SLGB003, which ticks about as many boxes as any single watch can. In fact, just about the worst thing you can say about the UFA is that the design isn’t taking any risks, but that’s the cost of chameleon-like versatility. While the watch is also available in an 80-piece limited edition in platinum (the SLGB001, pictured above), the primary focus of this review will be the more crowd-pleasing titanium version with matching bracelet (the SLGB003), which is a regular production model and priced right. The SLGB003 Initial thoughts Putting it bluntly, the UFA is an absolute spec-sheet monster. If you’re onboard with the idea of a quartz oscillator in an otherwise mechanical watch, there’s very little to nitpick. It’s simply one of the most accurate, wearable, and well-made watches on the market.  In true Grand Seiko style, the UFA is fitted with a nature-inspired dial motif that is modeled on a hillside of frost-covered trees. It’s a fairly abstract representation, which means it will look like d...

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Vacheron Constantin were standouts – Apr 13, 2025

SJX Podcast: Watches & Wonders 2025 Roundup

With Watches & Wonders 2025 having just concluded, we discuss the best watches seen at the fair, as well as developments and happenings at the year’s biggest watch fair. We cover the establishment brands – Rolex and Vacheron Constantin were standouts – and the independents. (For a written take on the fair, read my editorial.) Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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Zenith G.F.J Calibre 135 Revived Apr 12, 2025

Hands On: Zenith G.F.J., Calibre 135 Revived

Zenith has finally started to look beyond the El Primero with the G.F.J., which features a new version of the storied chronometer cal. 135. Conceived to mark the brand’s 160th anniversary, the G.F.J. moniker is a reference to the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, whose initials grace the facade at the manufacture in Le Locle. This new model marks the return of the famous movement phased out about 60 years ago. But production has officially restarted, and the new cal. 135 features modern upgrades that differentiate it from the vintage original used in the Calibre 135 Observatoire introduced in 2022. The “new old stock” cal. 135 that Zenith dusted off for the 2022 edition. Image – Zenith The movement returns to market in a 160-piece limited edition in platinum and features an elaborate blue dial that that is made from lapis lazuli and mother of pearl. For about double the price, owners can request a full platinum bracelet, which endows the watch with impressive heft. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the cal. 135 and wished Zenith would bring it back. That said, I was not convinced by the first stock images I saw of the G.F.J. I felt like the dial was overwrought, and the basketweave pattern on the movement was distracting. Having spent some time with the watch, I would soften my criticism of the dial as it’s more subtle on the wrist and up close the details are finely done. Moreover, subsequent non-anniversary versions will likely have these details toned...

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Apr 11, 2025

Biver Automatique’s in Yellow Gold with a Carbon Option

Having launched the Automatique last year in a range of metals except yellow gold, Biver has now revealed a pair in the classic precious metal. The Automatique in yellow gold debuts with a matching solid yellow gold dial or a more unusual dial in glossy, woven carbon fibre composite. Initial thoughts I was already a proponent of the Automatique, mainly because of the high quality of construction inside and out. The yellow gold duo add more options to the offering, but arguably bring more than just a new colour because the material evokes a vintage feel that suits the design. Between rose and yellow gold, I would pick the latter. The carbon dial version is interesting because it brings to mind the era of the 1990s when woven carbon fibre was a thing. The novelty of the material has since been supplanted by more exotic carbon composites, but the retro feel of the carbon dial is appealing. Moreover, it brings to mind the black-and-gold livery of John Player Special Formula 1 cars, which is precisely the point of this version according to Biver chief executive James Marks. Both versions are priced identically to their equivalents in the standard and Atelier Series. That’s fair enough but the carbon should be priced a little lower since the other Atelier models have mineral stone or fired enamel dials, which are typically costlier and harder to work than carbon fibre. The original colour of gold The new Automatique retains all of the features of the earlier versions, includin...

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Louis Moinet Apr 11, 2025

Louis Moinet Debuts New Chronograph Movement in the 1816

A tribute to the first chronograph pocket watch, the Louis Moinet 1816 combines contemporary case design with an all-new, classically constructed chronograph movement featuring a column wheel, horizontal clutch, and swan’s neck regulator. With the 1816, Louis Moinet has concocted an unusual but appealing proposition that blends the new with the old. Initial thoughts Louis Moinet is regarded as the inventor of the chronograph thanks to the compteur de tierce (which translates as “thirds counter”) that he revealed in 1816. His creation was considered more of a scientific instrument than a chronograph as we know it today. It was Nicolas Rieussiec who actually coined the term “chronograph” a few years later in 1821. Now the revived brand bearing Moinet’s name has taken inspiration from his 1816 invention to create a reinterpretation of the compteur de tierce. The original “thirds counter”. Image – Louis Moinet With a monochromatic, all-titanium construction and integrated bracelet, the 1816 looks to be a sports watch, yet it only has a 30 m water resistance. The traditionally styled movement stands in contrast with the contemporary and somewhat trendy exterior. Such a tribute to a historic piece would arguably have worked better with appropriately classical design. As it is, the 1816 is neither a dress nor a sports watch. The design feels confused, but the appeal of the movement alone is clear since it ticks most of the boxes that collectors appreciate in an ...

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De Bethune Turns Apr 10, 2025

De Bethune Turns to Swizz Beatz for Kind of Two GMT

The third iteration of De Bethune’s swivelling, double-faced watch is the Kind of Two GMT “Season 3” conceived in collaboration with American rapper and watch enthusiast Swizz Beatz. Powered by the hand-wound DB2517 movement, the watch indicates one time zone on the front and another on the reverse, with both sides able to be worn face up thanks to patented, pivoting “floating” lugs. Initial thoughts The Kind of Two series employs a useful reversible case, cleverly using the “floating” lug construction of the DB28 to create a double-faced watch. Here one dial is traditional with blued steel hands, and the other an open-worked face revealing the movement that also has a regulator-style display for the second time zone. The clever approach with a unique movement is typical De Bethune, although this loses some novelty as the third double-faced watch in the De Bethune line-up. The Kind of Two GMT is definitely one of the most elaborate two time zone watches on the market, but at over US$200,000, it is pricey for a GMT, even by the standards of independent watchmaking (Voutilainen’s GMT, for instance, costs less). Two-faced The “Season 3” edition adopts a restrained palette of black and gold with blue accents. The 43.3 mm by 11.4 mm case is titanium and zirconium, with blued steel hands and a blue-and-black guilloche dial centre on the front showing local time. Notably, this dial includes a jumping seconds that is driven by a secondary escapement visible on ...

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Grand Seiko s Tentagraph Grand Seiko’s Apr 10, 2025

A New Dial for the Grand Seiko’s Tentagraph

Grand Seiko’s flagship chronograph gets a new dial with the Tentagraph SLGC007 that just launched at Watches & Wonders 2025. Nearly identical to its predecessor, the SLGC001 with a dark blue dial, the new iteration distinguishes itself through a striking grey dial embossed with a pattern inspired by freshly fallen snow. This is matched with contrasting black sub-dials that coordinate seamlessly with the ceramic bezel, setting it apart from the earlier model. Initial thoughts The SLGC001 was a significant milestone for Grand Seiko - serving as the brand’s first mechanical chronograph - the new iteration of the Tentagraph is a just cosmetic variant. It has all the strengths and weaknesses of the original, though the dial is more attractive. This refreshed dial is far more appealing than the original in blue, as blue is somewhat overused in sports watches. The “panda”-esque black registers are also a nice touch that add to the sporty design. Priced at US$14,700, the Tentagraph SLGC007 is priced reasonably – but not quite the same value proposition as the average Grand Seiko. The Tentagraph has an impressive list of features, most obviously the in-house cal. 9SC5 with Grand Seiko’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement, and a high level of fit and finish, but the movement is modular in construction, which should not be a case for a flagship chronograph from a respected watchmaker. Nature inspired once again As is often the case with Grand Seiko dials, the SLGC007...

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Patek Philippe Gets Nostalgic Apr 9, 2025

Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Gets Nostalgic with Rare Handcrafts 2025

Just as Watches & Wonders 2025 comes to a close, Patek Philippe is opening the doors of its annual showcase of Rare Handcrafts at its historical home base along the Geneva waterfront. Now open for a period of three weeks rather than two as was the case for the 2024 exhibition, the exhibition features dozens of Dome Clocks, wristwatches, and pocket watches embellished with miniature enamel painting, cloisonné, marquetry, hand engraving, and other artistic forms of decoration. The view from the salon with the historic Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues on the left hidden by trees In addition to the usual nature-inspired themes, this year’s collection plays to nostalgia, including both rose-coloured memories of the past and antiquarian visions of the future. Visiting the Rare Handcrafts exhibit is enjoyable because intellectually it’s a level playing field; it’s mostly the same clocks and watches with the same specs and movements dressed up in different ways. This fact makes it easier to pay attention to one’s own heart, and to get drawn into the creations on an emotional level. Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50R-020 “Regent Street” Clocks While the selection of clocks is naturally centered around the brand’s iconic Dome Clocks, Patek is also bringing back desk clocks with a new version of the ref. 27001M which sold for more than US$10 million at Only Watch in 2021. For the corporate titan who has everything, the million-franc desk clock ref. 27000M is embellished with e...

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Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication Apr 9, 2025

Editorial: Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2025

By some measures, Watches & Wonders 2025 was the biggest ever. Visitors rose 12% on the previous year to 55,000, and more inconveniently, the hotel room-nights were up 17% to 43,000, perhaps explaining why accommodation gets more expensive every year (but fortunately still far from the extortion of Basel). But I am certain by other measures Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was a down year. Orders by retailers for new watches are surely lower than a year before. There was an undercurrent of concern throughout the fair, even before American tariffs were announced halfway through. But as is often the case, most executives acknowledge a slowdown but predict their brand will outperform because it is better. The best of the Land-Dweller variants, the 40 mm in platinum Big and small brands One of the most interesting developments this year is the degree of novelty at big brands compared to independent watchmakers. In recent history indies tended to have the more notable creations – the F.P. Journe FFC from two years ago is one of the all-time greats – but this year the opposite happened. The two best launches during W&W; season came from big brands (or at least an establishment brand owned by a big group): the Rolex Land-Dweller and the Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. The Land-Dweller incorporates an extraordinary number of innovations in its cal. 7135, while the Solaria is the most complicated wristwatch ever made, but importantly, it gained the title with a clev...

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Grand Seiko Debuts Apr 8, 2025

Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion

Grand Seiko’s flagship mechanical chronograph has been reimagined as the Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Executed in the brand’s proprietary “Brilliant Hard Titanium”, the oversized, facetted case is inspired by the paw of a lion, the historical emblem of Grand Seiko. This is the first time the Tentagraph movement is being combined with the Tokyo Lion case, setting it apart from the original model that was in the classic Grand Seiko Evolution 9 design. Initial thoughts While the original Tentagraph was conventional in style, the Tokyo Lion edition is big and bold. The watch has presence on the wrist. The case is large at 43 mm wide and almost 16 mm high, with its many facetted surfaces catching the light nicely. While the concept of a lion-inspired case might sound gimmicky, the new Tentagraph has its own appeal. The size and style makes this less of a low-key everyday watch than the first Tentagraph, but definitely more striking and original. Even though the Tokyo Lion case is arguably an acquired taste, I like this more than the original. At US$16,400, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is one of Grand Seiko’s priciest models in non-precious metal. But it is a flagship watch with a latest-generation movement, the cal. 9SC5, which incorporates the proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement and a free-sprung balance. The only shortcoming of the watch is the modular construction of the movement. Ten beats per second While the Tokyo Lion case design has been emplo...

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IWC Scales Down Apr 8, 2025

IWC Scales Down the Ingenieur to 35 mm

A new addition to the revived Ingenieur introduced two years ago, the Ingenieur Automatic 35 is just 35 mm in diameter and 9.44 mm thick, giving it a more streamlined profile than its 40 mm sibling. The size brings to mind the Ingenieur ref. 3521 of the 1990s that was just 34 mm wide. Beyond its compact dimensions, it preserves the hallmarks of the Ingenieur design, including a brushed bezel and case with polished chamfers, and matching integrated bracelet. The new Ingenieur is offered in stainless steel, with a choice of black or white dials, or in 18k red gold. Initial thoughts The modern-day Ingenieur 40 is a relatively faithful homage to the 1970s Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta. The new 35 mm model retains the same styling but harks back to the smaller, 1990s model, filling out the Ingenieur line with a smaller offering. The smaller model has the same strengths and weaknesses as its larger cousin: an appealing historical design, solid execution of the case and bracelet, but a middling in-house movement matched with a relatively high retail price of US$9,950 in stainless steel and US$37,500 in red gold. Compact profile With a 35 mm diameter and a thickness of 9.44 mm, the new Ingenieur is what would be described as mid size by modern standards. Beyond the smaller form factor, it remains nearly identical to its 40 mm counterpart. It’s offered in stainless steel or 5N red gold with a matching bracelet. Notably, the gold version features a gold-plated dial with so...

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Breguet Sympathique No 1 Apr 7, 2025

Auction Watch: Breguet Sympathique No. 1 at Phillips

Right on time for Breguet’s 250th anniversary this year, Phillips just revealed it will soon be selling Breguet Sympathique no. 1, the unique, entirely gold clock created as a tribute to the 19th century originals made by Abraham-Louis Breguet. This is the first time the clock is emerging in public after it was first sold in 1991. Actually a clock with an accompany wristwatch (that can be transformed into a pocket watch), the Sympathique is masterful, modern-day creation that reproduces the genius of A.-L. Breguet’s original concept of a master clock that winds and sets a removable watch over the course of the night, allowing the owner to retrieve the watch for use the next day. The first of a 20-piece series, clock no. 1 is most unique in both entirely solid gold – the master clock, wristwatch, pocket watch case, and bracelet are all in 18k yellow gold. Like the rest of the series it was constructed by Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) in Sainte-Croix, a complications workshop that is today most famous for having had Francois-Paul Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter amongst its alumni. One of the artisans who worked on the Sympathique series was Dominique Mouret, a clockmaker who today still restores antique clocks in his workshop in Sainte-Croix. The clock comes straight from the collection of the original owner who paid CHF1.55 million at The Art of Breguet auction held by Antiquorum in 1991. It has an estimate in excess of CHF1.00 million, but I t...

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Tudor s Black Bay Pro Apr 7, 2025

Tudor’s Black Bay Pro, Now in Opaline White

Tudor has given its Black Bay Pro a new look with an “opaline” white dial, fulfilling a long-standing enthusiasts’ wish. This new model replaces the black dial launched in 2022, while retaining the same 39 mm case and 24-hour fixed bezel. It’s equipped with a pale orange GMT hand that stands out prominently against the “polar” white dial. Initial thoughts Three years after its initial release, the Black Bay Pro remains one of the strongest value propositions in the sub–US$5,000 segment of dual time zone watches. Priced at US$4,375 on a steel bracelet, the Black Bay Pro is a true GMT with an independently adjustable local hour hand. Plus it features a solid bracelet with a micro-adjust clasp and a high-spec in-house movement. Naturally, the fact that it’s reminiscent of the Rolex Explorer II “polar” doesn’t hurt. The only drawback is the 14.6 mm case that is a little too thick for its compact diameter. Fortunately, Tudor does offer a better proportioned dual time zone with the Black Bay 58 GMT, but that’s only available in black and burgundy for now. Opaline dial The domed white dial is the star of the show. Like the original model, it features applied luminous ceramic-polymer hour markers. Here the markings are in black on a matte white dial, matched with an orange GMT hand. Apart from the dial, the watch remains identical to the earlier Black Bay Pro. It features a 39 mm case housing the COSC-certified MT5652 movement, which operates at 28,800 beat...

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Omega Unveils Seamaster Planet Ocean Apr 6, 2025

Omega Unveils Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer

Omega’s latest is an unusual combination of a 600 m-rated dive watch with a Cottier-style world time. The Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer shares the oversized ceramic case of the Planet Ocean Deep Black, but is the first model in the collection to incorporate a world time complication. Initial thoughts While the Worldtimer makes a bold statement, a US$14,800 price tag and substantial case dimensions may limit its appeal – particularly for those with average-sized wrists. Still, it offers a somewhat paradoxical and oddly specific combination of features, so someone seeking a world time watch ready for saturation diving, there are few other options. Of the two available colourways, I would choose the low-key grey edition for its greater versatility compared to the turquoise version. Worldtimer Offered with either turquoise or grey accents, the new Planet Ocean is housed in a black ceramic case measuring 45.5 mm in diameter and 17.4 mm in thickness. Signature Seamaster case elements, including twisted lyre lugs, a helium escape valve, and “Broad Arrow” hands, complete the design. The standout feature the world time complication with a cities disc and 24-hour ring. At the centre is a titanium disc displaying a view of the Earth from the North Pole, with continents and colours rendered with varnish and laser engraving. A 24-hour ring in transparent hesalite is shaded in black and white to denote night and day. The chapter ring for the hours is embellished with a honey...

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Audemars Piguet having already done it Apr 6, 2025

Zenith Introduces the Blue Ceramic Chronograph Trilogy

In celebration of birthday, Zenith presents a trio of chronographs entirely in blue ceramic, the 160th Anniversary Editions of the Chronometer Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph, and Pilot Big Date Flyback. Each retains the specifications of its steel equivalent, with the only distinction being the case and bracelet material. Initial thoughts Best known for the El Primero high-beat automatic chronograph, Zenith arguably does best at chronographs, and that’s exactly what it’s doing for its anniversary. The reimagining of Zenith’s best-known models in blue ceramic is on trend – maybe a bit too trendy – with brands like Audemars Piguet having already done it. That said, the anniversary trilogy does offer a striking new alternative to anyone seeking an El Primero with a whole new aesthetic. The use of ceramic for both the case and bracelet, however, means each of the trilogy models is notably pricier than the equivalent model in steel. That’s acceptable for an anniversary limited edition, but not quite the same value proposition as the steel variants. Blue ceramic The Chronomaster Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph, and Pilot Big Date Flyback each retain the same dimensions and movement as their respective steel models, except that the case and bracelet are now in blue ceramic modelled on Zenith’s signature hue. According to Zenith, blue ceramic was an undertaking that involved months of research and development. Blue ceramic is significantly more challenging to finish...

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Rolex Introduces Apr 4, 2025

Rolex Introduces the Oyster Perpetual in Matte Pastel Colours

Rolex had a little bit of everything at Watches & Wonders 2025, from the top-of-the-line GMT-Master II to the unexpected, retro-style Settimo bracelet for the Perpetual 1908. But the most accessible offerings are the entry-level Oyster Perpetual 28, 36, and 41 in pastel shades of lavender, beige, and pistachio – all in a matte finish in a first for the current Rolex line-up. Past versions of the Oyster Perpetual have featured dials with surfaces that were either glossy lacquered or metallic brushed, making the new iterations subtly distinct. The 28 mm model with a lavender dial Initial thoughts Like the left-handed GMT-Master II also launched at W&W;, the Oyster Perpetual trio are incremental improvements to existing models, but done well and priced reasonably (even if availability will be challenging). The matte dials in pastel colours give the Oyster Perpetual a more modern feel, which is a notable for a model that is several decades old and largely unchanged in terms of style. As is the norm at Rolex, a new feature – the matte finish in this case – is being released on a limited basis to start with, but I expect matte-finish dials to be found in more models over time. 41 mm with a pistachio green dial Being the entry-level model for Rolex, the Oyster Perpetual is priced modestly, with the most expensive model being the largest, 41 mm version priced at US$6,650. It represents solid value, though obtaining one, at least initial, will be difficult as these will be bes...

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Rolex Introduces Apr 4, 2025

Rolex Introduces the GMT-Master II with a Green Ceramic Dial

Rolex has launched its first-ever ceramic dial with the GMT-Master II ref. 126729 VTNR. Left-handed like the “Sprite” of 2022, the new GMT-Master II is available only in 18k white gold – unsurprising since Rolex typically rolls out new innovations or features in precious metals. Dial aside, the rest is classic GMT-Master II. The movement is the latest-generation cal. 3285, while the bezel insert is in the same material as the dial, Cerachrom, Rolex speak for ceramic. Initial thoughts Unlike the game-changing Land Dweller, the new GMT-Master II is typical Rolex in being an incremental improvement over past models. Ceramic dials have been present in watchmaking for several years now, though this is a first for Rolex. Over time, ceramic dials will probably filter downwards into more affordable models as is the norm at the brand. Besides being a perfect match for the green half of the bezel, the ceramic dial is presumably more robustness than conventional lacquered dial, particularly in terms of scratch resistance and colour fastness (over decades or even centuries). Even though it’s not majorly novel, the ref. 126729 VTNR is a good looking watch and, in the usual Rolex fashion, is priced reasonably for what it is (though not cheaply). But it will also be a major hit, which makes availability scarce for some time to come. Two time zones One of the iconic travel watches, the GMT-Master II does a simple job very well. It can indicate up to three time zones with its combi...

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Rolex Introduces Apr 3, 2025

Rolex Introduces the Perpetual 1908 on Settimo Bracelet

In a rare move, Rolex has unveiled an all-new bracelet, the Settimo, that goes with the Perpetual 1908. Comprised of seven polished and rounded links, the Settimo is vintage in style and available only in yellow gold for now, to match the 1908 in the same metal. Though unusual for Rolex, the new bracelet is typical Rolex in quality and construction, making it robust despite the compact links and supple feel. It also incorporates the Crownclasp with its hidden, spring-loaded locking mechanism. Initial thoughts Unlike the new GMT-Master II, the Settimo on the 1908 is unexpected. The original 1908 was already surprising when it was launched two years ago, since it was Rolex’s first new attempt at a dress watch in a long time. The supple Settimo bracelet is unlike other Rolex bracelets, which tend to be heavy and solid. Both in terms of look and feel, the pairs well with the 1908, which is one of the thinnest Rolex models with an Oyster case. The retro straight end links are also a nice touch. When purchased together, the 1908 on a bracelet costs about US$12,000 over the same on a strap, which makes the bracelet something of a value buy in terms of precious metal bracelets. The bracelet can be retrofitted to a 1908 originally sold with a strap, but it costs substantially more on its own. The only downside of the new bracelet is the fact that it’s only available in yellow gold, for now at least. I expect it’ll be rolled out across the 1908 progressively over time. Settimo...

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Cartier Revisits Apr 3, 2025

Cartier Revisits the Tank à Guichets with an In-House Movement

One of the most distinctive versions of Cartier’s signature rectangular watch, the Tank à Guichets has been revived as part of the Privé collection, joining watches like the Tortue Monopoussoir and Tank Cintree. The last time Cartier had such a model in its catalogue was exactly 20 years ago with the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) iteration. Sporting a crown at 12 o’clock like some historical examples of the model, the Tank à Guichets indicates the time in twin apertures, with jumping hours at 12 o’clock and minutes at six. Measuring a slim 6 mm in height, the Tank à Guichets (or “Tank with Windows”) is powered by a new in-house movement, the cal. 9755 MC. Notably, it will be a regular production model in yellow or rose gold, as well as platinum, plus an asymmetrical or “oblique” model that is limited to 200 pieces. The regular production models (left), and limited edition Initial thoughts The Tank à Guichets was always one of my favourite iterations of the Tank, and the popularity of the preceding version made it almost inevitable that Cartier would revive the design. The new Tank à Guichets is subtly different from the CPCP version, most notably in its slim profile, but still looks and feels correct. The finishing on the case is excellent, particularly on the polished bevels that frame the apertures. The movement, on the other hand, is concealed behind a solid back but is industrial in finish and style. That said, it is an integrated calibre ...

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TAG Heuer Introduces Apr 1, 2025

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph in White Ceramic.

TAG Heuer’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2025 is the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1, a tribute to the brand’s storied Formula 1 history. This striking timepiece features a white ceramic case that dispenses with a traditional metallic inner container in a departure from technical norms in construction. A red translucent dial reveal the mechanics below, while the chronograph counters - finished with an asphalt-like texture,white and yellow grid markings, and official F1 typography - proudly display British F1 commentator David Croft’s famous phrase: “Lights Out & Away We Go.” Initial thoughts At first glance, the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 may appear to be just another Formula 1–inspired watch. However, a closer look reveals the subtle yet distinctive details that set it apart from its competitors. Rather than relying on overt F1 motifs, it integrates refined elements-such as the checkered-flag pattern-that showcase its superb craftsmanship and elevate it above other racing-inspired chronographs. Priced at CHF155,000, the Monaco may initially appear costly, particularly given TAG Heuer’s history of being more accessible. Yet, beyond the brand’s heritage lies a timepiece whose exceptional craftsmanship more than warrants its price tag. It is a Vaucher-powered rattrapante chronograph, and this version is unquestionably the most appealing of the iterations to date. And the Formula 1–inspired touches are thoughtfully integrated, an...

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Nomos Introduces Apr 1, 2025

Nomos Introduces the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer

Known for good looks and good value, Nomos has just introduced a new version of its popular dual-time complication, the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer. Thanks in part to the new DUW 3202 automatic movement, the Worldtimer offers a rare combination of functionality, robustness, and slimness. Available in two colourways, dark blue or silver, the latter with a ‘Pepsi’ home time scale, the Worldtimer comes on a stainless steel bracelet and is rated to 100 m, making it quite versatile. Initial thoughts I have a soft spot for Nomos, and I like the brand’s unique approach to making sporty watches. Instead of going after the usual macho design cues like dive bezels and tachymeters, the brand has instead taken its signature Bauhaus-inspired design and just bulked it up a bit. This approach resulted in the Club Sport collection, and I was immediately intrigued to see this line-up expand to include the Worldtimer. Key to the Worldtimer’s appeal are its dimensions, which measure a compact 40 mm by 9.9 mm. That makes it quite thin for a dual-time watch, but despite its slim form it still manages a full 100 m of water resistance. And for added security, the crown features a red anodised ring to alert the owner when the crown has been left unscrewed. The stainless steel case is paired with a simple three-link bracelet that is quite bland and probably the weakest element of the design. The dial features a central disc with a sunray finish in either silver or dark blue, surrounded...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic Apr 1, 2025

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic

For the first time since 1998, and for only the second time in the nearly 100-year history of its most iconic model, Jaeger-LeCoultre has squeezed a world timer into the Reverso. The result is the Reverso Tribute Geographic, which features a demure primary dial with an outsize date on one side and an exquisite world time display on the other. The Geographic is available in a stainless steel case with a blue dial or as part of a 150-piece limited edition in 18k rose gold featuring a chocolate brown dial. Both models share the same dimensions, which are unfortunately a bit on the large side. Initial thoughts There’s a lot to like about the Reverso Geographic. Reversos like this that hide a complication on the second dial are deeply appealing to me, and carry with them the thrill of keeping a secret. It also gives the watch a split personality, enabling the wearer to choose the dial that matches their mood. While I immediately liked the concept of the Geographic, I was slightly disappointed to see the dimensions, which match those of the Reverso Tribute Chronograph launched in 2023. At 49.4 mm long by 29.9 mm wide, the Geographic is among the larger Reversos, meaning it loses some of the intended vintage charm. That said, the size is a consequence of its functionality – a smaller case size would make the world time display unreasonably small. One of the things I liked about the Tribute Chronograph that also applies to the Geographic is the fact that it’s very much a sle...

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