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Grand Seiko which has enjoyed notably Aug 27, 2021

Interview: Akio Naito, President of Seiko Watch Corporation

An all-encompassing brand that has something for everyone, Seiko is a 140-year-old brand with a dozen or so lines spanning the price spectrum. Its flagship brand is, of course, Grand Seiko, which has enjoyed notably strong growth outside of Japan after being spun off in 2017. Now we speak with the man who was a key part of this international expansion: Akio Naito. Appointed President of the Seiko Watch Corporation (SWC) earlier this year, Mr Naito now runs the primary watch business of the Seiko group, having climbed the ranks over a four-decade career. He has held roles across various Seiko companies around the world – one of his earliest managerial roles was head of Seiko Australia starting 2002 – and was most recently deputy chief operating officer of SWC. In that role, he was responsible for international sales and marketing. It was during his tenure that Seiko brands enjoyed notably strong growth outside of Japan, most notably with Grand Seiko in America and Europe – two key markets he personally oversaw. Our founder SJX sat down with Mr Naito recently to discuss his plans for Seiko and Grand Seiko, while also touching on topics like complicated watches and the future of watch fairs. The interview has been edited for clarity and length. Mr Naito with Wako’s famous clocktower behind him SJX: I first visited Seiko’s factories in Shiojiri and Shizukuishi 10 or 12 years ago. I like to congratulate you on how the brand has developed in that time, especially Gra...

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Ming Aug 27, 2021

Bernhard Lederer Introduces the Central Impulse Chronometer

After Bernhard Lederer unveiled his impressive double-wheel escapement wristwatch last year, it was radio silence until now. As it turns out, Mr Lederer was working on refining the Central Impulse Chronometer, which is now being launched in its final, serial-production form. The new watch is essentially the same watch, but with a new and improved dial. The movement remains the same: equipped with a double-wheel escapement featuring twin going trains, each equipped with a remontoir d’egalité constant force mechanism – making it one of the serious chronometers in modern horology. Entirely revised is the dial, which now has more elegant design, with slim hour markers framing a chequerboard guilloche centre. And the dial now incorporates gains a symmetrical, figure-of-eight aperture that showcases the twin escapements and remontoirs, with each having its own seconds hand – both turning in the opposite direction. Initial thoughts The CIC is one of the relatively rare wristwatches to incorporate a double-wheel escapement. But what makes the CIC uncommon is its execution – its escapement is powered by twin individual going trains – a construction famously conceived by George Daniels for his pocket watches, most notably the Space Traveller’s Watch. Bernhard Lederer at his bench The degree of miniaturisation to fit such a construction into a watch puts the CIC amongst an exclusive class of timepieces that can be counted on one hand – made by George Daniels, Derek ...

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IWC Aug 27, 2021

IWC to Keep Time on First All-Civilian Space Flight

Slated to be the first space flight with an entirely civilian crew, Inspiration4 take off in September 2021 for a three-day orbit of Earth. Operated by SpaceX, the space travel company founded by Elon Musk, the mission will keep time with the help of IWC, which has created the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Inspiration4” for the four-person crew. Featuring white ceramic cases and blue-lacquered dials, the four watches will be sold at auction after the space flight, with proceeds going to St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital, a paediatric hospital funded by donations that treats severely ill children and teenagers for free. Initial thoughts Being four watches that will be sold to benefit a good cause, the Inspiration4 chronographs are certainly a good thing. It helps that the design is appealing. Though the overarching elements of the watch are familiar – white ceramic and blue – they are combined in a novel manner for IWC. Both the star-speckled dial and white ceramic case are unique in the IWC line up. But the fact that these four are the first-ever Pilot’s watches in white ceramic (aside from prototypes from two decades ago) probably hints at something similar in the pipeline. If, and when, such a watch does emerge, I hope the production version will be smaller than the 44.5 mm that the Inspiration4 is, though that’s unlikely since the ceramic chronographs are all that size. Four travellers The four watches have been made for the crew of Inspiratio...

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F.P. Journe seeks out Aug 26, 2021

Calling All Up and Coming Young Watchmakers

Every year F.P. Journe seeks out the world’s most promising young clock- and watchmakers and selects one, or sometimes a handful, to receive the year’s F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition prize. The 2022 contest is now open for submissions. Contestants must be between the ages of 18 and 30 years old, and have “independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction”. A jury of industry notables, including Philippe Dufour and Francois-Paul Journe himself, will then decide on the winner, who receives a CHF20,000 grant. This year’s winner was Mario Scarpatetti, who devised a secular perpetual calendar clock. Past winners include Russian watchmaker Anton Suhanov, who has built monumental table clocks, including one with a triple-axis tourbillon within a metal flower, and Remy Cools, who unveiled his first wristwatch tourbillon not too long ago. To enter the contest, submit your entry on fpjourne.com. The deadline for submissions is February 25, 2022.  

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Meistersinger produces watches Aug 25, 2021

The Hour Striker Made Surprisingly Affordable

A German brand with a specific and quirky focus, Meistersinger produces watches with only one hand that simultaneous indicates the hours and minutes. Having been founded in 2001, Meistersinger has rolled out a variety of one-handed watches in its two decades, but earlier this year it debuted perhaps the most interesting to date, the hour-striking Edition Bell Hora. A chiming watch for surprisingly little money, the Bell Hora strikes a single note at the top of every hour. It accomplishes that with a straightforward chiming module on top of a Sellita base movement, explaining its affordable price tag. First launched earlier this year with a metallic finish dial, the Bell Hora is now given a more classical, white-lacquered dial in a limited edition. Initial thoughts Meistersinger by and large only does one product, but in a vast number of iterations. To appreciate any of them, you have to like a single-handed watch, which is a good idea if executed right. In terms of design, Meistersinger’s offerings have been a mixed bag. The new Bell Hora fortunately gets it right. Bringing to mind vintage “multi-scale” chronographs, the white dial has evokes an old-school medical instruments. The watch is, however, quite large at 43 mm, and also thick at 13 mm high. But the Bell Hora does well where it matters. The base movement is a low-cost Sellita, which isn’t fancy but it is an hour striker: a single note is sounded at the top of every hour. For a bit over US$4,000, it’s...

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Piaget Introduces Aug 25, 2021

Piaget Introduces the Mid-Size Polo 36 mm

After a major facelift in 2016, the Piaget Polo has evolved into a thin but sporty watch available in a variety of guises, including the ultra-thin, skeletonised version introduced earlier in the year. But all of the Polo models to date are masculine, with the smallest model a sizeable 42 mm in diameter (and the high complicated Emperador models even larger). Now Piaget has finally taken the covers off the Piaget Polo Date 36 mm, essentially a mid-sized version of the Polo sports watch. It’s a straightforward watch – automatic, three hands, and date – with either a little or a lot of bling. Initial thoughts Given the popularity of luxury-sports watches, the introduction of the Polo Date 36 mm is a natural progression, while also making sense since there are increasingly enthusiasts, both male and female, who want such watches in a smaller format. That said, the new Polo is primarily a feminine watch, especially since all versions are set with diamonds. Even the understated base model in steel with a blue dial has diamond hour markers. Price wise, the Polo Date 36 mm is pretty competitive, both against its larger sibling as well as alternatives from the competition. For instance, the steel version with diamond markers is priced at US$13,100, which is about 10% pricier than the 42 mm version – that doesn’t have any diamonds – and a lot more affordable than many high-end luxury-sports watches. Still, the Polo is fairly priced for what it is. They are executed ...

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Massena Lab Introduces Habring2 Aug 24, 2021

Massena Lab Introduces Habring2 with J.N. Shapiro Guilloche Dial

After two collaborations with Habring², Massena Lab has just taken the covers off its third joint project with the Austria watchmaker. Strikingly different from the earlier “sector” dial editions, the Erwin Lab03 is a step up in terms of dial decoration. Doing away with the printed sector dial of earlier editions, Massena Lab recruited American guillocheur J.N. Shapiro to create an engine-turned bronze dial with classical Roman numerals and Breguet hands. Initial thoughts Having three variations of one Habring² model in as many years might seem a lot, but Massena Lab has made each version distinctive, each is different enough to bear little resemblance to the stock Erwin. At the same time, the Erwin has appeal. It’s wearable and compact while having an interesting complication, a jumping seconds. Perhaps more elegant than the earlier Massena Lab Erwins, the LAB03 distinguishes itself from the typical guilloche-dial watch. The salmon colour is faddish, but the extra-large Roman numerals and absence of hour markers make the watch stand out from most Breguet-inspired watches. The highlight is definitely the hand-crafted dial. It’s made by Joshua Shapiro, a self-taught independent watchmaker and engine-turning specialist best known for pulling off the extremely intricate guilloche pattern of his own creation. At the same time, Mr Shapiro’s rising reputation certainly adds to the appeal of LAB03. Priced at US$9,450, the Lab03 is the most expensive Erwin from ...

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Hublot Unveils Aug 24, 2021

Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow

The most extravagant watch to date in 2021 has arrived courtesy of Hublot – the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow. Combining Hublot’s signature porthole face with the integrated bracelet introduced last year, the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow has almost every surface set with coloured gemstones. And ticking away inside is an in-house movement with a tourbillon and clear sapphire bridges. Initial thoughts Rainbow watches are the “it” watches of our era, with the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” being the most famous of the multi-coloured, gem-set timepieces. But now Hublot has taken it to the outlandish next level. The Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow is a lot, probably too much, but it’s also a stunning example of gem setting – proof comes in the form of 36 carats of stones – with an unusually interesting movement. The movement will probably be overlooked by whoever buys either of the two unique examples, but it is quite accomplished in a technical sense: an automatic tourbillon wound by a micro-rotor, with everything held in place by clear sapphire bridges. Contrasting starkly with the densely saturated case, the movement is light and airy in its layout, with its wheels appearing to be floating within the case thanks to the transparent bridges. The only glaring shortcoming in its technical features is the Etachron regulator index for the tourbillon. It’s entirely functional, but typically found in less expensive watches. Even though I would not ...

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Grand Seiko Introduces Aug 24, 2021

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive 5 Days Caliber 9RA2

Having introduced a new design language along with the all-new, automatic 9SA5 last year, Grand Seiko is now doing the same for the Spring Drive. The watchmaker has debuted a pair of Heritage Collection Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Editions, the “Minamo” SLGA007 in steel and the “Tree Rings” SLGA008 in rose gold. Both are powered by the 9RA2 that’s part of the family of latest-generation Spring Drive movements first seen last year in the Grand Seiko Diver 600 m SLGA001. Just 5 mm high, the slimness of the 9RA5 means the pair of new models are the thinnest Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches to date. Initial thoughts The new models are essentially Spring Drive versions of the self-winding Heritage models launched last year (including an ultra-luxe platinum version and the more recent “White Birch”). That’s a good thing for two reasons. One is the intrinsic appeal of the design, which is vintage inspired and appealing, packaged in a case that’s a good size and easily wearable. And the other is the increased consistency in styling between Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive and automatic models, doing away with the confusing distinction between movements and designs. The “Minamo” SLGA007 in steel But that’s also the downside for the buyers of the limited-edition models (either these or the automatics), since the design has been replicated as a standard-production watch with the automatic movement, and the same will surely be done for the new 9RA2 Spring Dr...

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Aug 20, 2021

Hanhart Introduces the Flieger Friday Edition

Historically the world’s leading producer of mechanical stopwatches – the sort once standard issue at athletic meets – Hanhart has shifted its focus to sports chronographs in recent years. Most of them are based on the brand’s vintage watches from the early- to mid- 20th century, especially the distinctive pilot’s chronographs it supplied to the German air force. While some of its offerings are remakes, the brand’s latest is an overtly modern take on the 1930s pilot’s chronograph. The #FliegerFriday Edition combines a black-coated steel case with a dark blue dial as well as the brand’s trademark red reset pusher. With the origins of the design are vintage, the Flieger Friday Edition has a calculated casual style that stems from its inspiration – the social media hashtag #FliegerFriday, which refers to wearing a pilot’s watch over the weekend. Initial thoughts Hanhart is not short of vintage remakes – usually executed with signature elements like a red pusher or knurled bezel – so the modern style of the Flieger Friday Edition is unusual and welcome. Admittedly the blue-dial sports chronograph formula is well used, but here it’s done with a little more novelty by pairing the dial with a steel case coated in black diamond-like-carbon (DLC). Add to that the splash of red, and the result is a striking watch that does live up to the hashtag’s basis of a fun, weekend watch. The watch is reasonably priced at US$2,700, which is not much more than the...

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Ming I can uncover Aug 20, 2021

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Track 1 DLS Edition

Having just concluded, Monterey Car Week was a series of shows and auctions, concluding with the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance. The week was the venue for Porsche 911 specialist Singer Vehicle Design to exhibit the DLS for the first time in the United States. Launched in 2018, the DLS is a Porsche 964 that’s been entirely remade to be ultra-light and ultra-aerodynamic. To go along with the car, Singer Reimagined rolled out the Track 1 DLS Edition. It’s a new take on Singer’s trademark central chronograph, reimagined to be, well, ultra-light, while retaining its recognisable case design and thoroughly original Agenhor movement. Initial thoughts Because it combines a distinct, retro design along with a truly ingenious movement, I like the Track 1 (and I own another version of the watch). The DLS is essentially a condensed version of the same thing – and it’s cool. The aesthetic is pared-back just enough, while the composite case is an interesting novelty. Though the material is common in watchmaking, it’s a first for Singer. The only shortcoming I can uncover is a philosophical one: the DLS Edition echoes its namesake automobile with lightweight materials, but unlike the car, it doesn’t make any functional changes. The movement is identical to that of the standard model, but it is admittedly an excellent and innovative movement. Still, all that’s a moot point given that the watch is only available to owners of the car, of which there will be just 75. ...

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Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Cal Aug 19, 2021

In-Depth: The New Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Cal. 3861

Having finally retired the decades-old version of the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch powered by the cal. 1861, Omega announced its successor at the start of the year. Equipped with the new cal. 3861, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 42 mm is the result of a thorough makeover, with all its parts – from the case and bracelet to the dial and movement – reworked in nearly every respect. The latest version (left) and its predecessor While that seems to imply a radical change, it’s near impossible to tell the new and old versions apart. Despite being all encompassing, the improvements are subtle. From an aesthetic perspective, the Moonwatch remains as it was in the mid 1960s, when the straight lugs of the earlier generations were replaced with the twisted, “lyre” lugs that are now a defining feature of the model. That leads to the obvious question:  if the two generations are nearly identical, is the new version any better? Briefly put, yes. Two upgrades elevate the new Moonwatch in a tangible and substantial manner. One lies in the detail of its design: the face has a bit more flair thanks to greater distinction between the different levels of the dial. And the other lies on the inside: the new cal. 3861 gets most of Omega’s state-of-the-art innovations, resulting in improved timekeeping, as well as a useful level of magnetism resistance. The new cal. 3861 (left) and the cal. 1863 (the dressed-up version of the ...

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Cartier Transforms Aug 18, 2021

Cartier Transforms the Baignoire Allongée Into a Gold-Mesh Glove

A master of often extravagant, occasionally whimsical, jewelled timepieces, Cartier has just debuted the Mitten Watch. Despite the plain name, the Mitten Watch is a dramatic blend of the jeweller’s longstanding oval watch case – the Baignoire Allongée – and a half glove of woven rose gold, finished with a sprinkling of over 1,500 diamonds. The Mitten Watch is the first unique wristwatch in Clash [Un]limited, a riff on the Clash line up of edgy jewellery. A step upwards in both exclusivity and creativity, Clash [Un]limited is a collection of watches and jewellery made up entirely of limited editions or unique creations. The Baignoire Allongée camouflaged within the rose gold mesh  Initial thoughts Watches as jewellery are unsurprisingly a specialty of Cartier’s. Past examples include watches shaped like an overflowing bathtub, inspired by animals, and of course the famous Crash. But still the Mitten Watch still manages to stand out – it is quite a special creation. Being a metallic half glove certainly makes the watch interesting in both form and function, but the execution really brings the idea to life. The Baignoire Allongée – French for “elongated bathtub” – is perhaps the ideal choice for the design, with its stretched but slim profile that’s prominent enough to be visible, yet sleek enough not to be obtrusive, against the mesh glove. And then there are the diamonds that cascade outwards from the watch, giving the mitten a dynami...

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Chanel Introduces Aug 17, 2021

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Superleggera Edition

Essentially a dressed-up version of the Monsieur in black ceramic, the Monsieur Superleggera Edition takes inspiration from the J12 Superleggera, a chronograph named after the ultra-light racing cars of the mid-20th century. Like the J12, the Monsieur Superleggera has an obvious automotive theme in its design, with its time display redesigned to resemble a speedometer. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of the Monsieur de Chanel in its earlier iterations, including the original model in “beige” gold and more recent version in ceramic and marble. They were all clean, stylish, and mostly monochromatic – and equipped with a sophisticated, attractive movement. The Superleggera Edition has the same movement, but the style is the opposite. It has a techno-automotive style that tries a bit too hard for my tastes. While the texturing and scales have a clear automotive inspiration, they don’t add much to the visual appeal of the watch. Ironically, the inspiration for the new Monsieur, the J12 Superleggera of 2005, actually looks more streamlined, despite being a chronograph. Still, the Monsieur Superleggera probably like a fancy bodykit for a car – it’ll divide opinions. Anyone who finds the plainer Monsieur boring would applaud this. Superleggera  Italian for “super light”, Superleggera was an Italian coachbuilder that specialised in lightweight automobile bodies comprising a tubular steel frame cover in thin, aluminium-alloy panels. Perhaps the most famous automobile w...

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Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 Aug 16, 2021

Up Close: Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m

Historically best known for ultra-advanced quartz and solar-powered watches – including the most accurate watch ever – Citizen has been on a tear recently with good, old-fashioned mechanical watches. The Japanese watchmaker started the year the high-end with The Citizen Caliber 0200, and then moved onto something more accessible but still sporting an integrated bracelet. More recently it took the covers off the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m ref. NB6004-08E. Oversized and aggressively styled, the new Promaster is eminently affordable – retail is about US$1,000 – but kitted out with impressive features, including a hardened case as well as a magnetism-resistant in-house movement, which makes it excellent value. (And it has a cool, glow-in-the-dark buckle.) Initial thoughts In my early days as a watch enthusiast, I had a soft spot for Seiko dive watches, because they were diverse in style and budget friendly. Citizen, on the other hand, didn’t feature as much, because it only offered one or two notable mechanical dive watches as the company largely focused on solar-powered watches (and still does). But Citizen is expanding its repertoire at a measured pace, but making tremendous progress. The Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m is a single model, but offered in several variants (though availability of each version varies throughout the world). Citizen lent me the base model – brushed titanium with a black dial – for a few days. On paper, the watch is high s...

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Rolex Grants Aug 13, 2021

Rolex Grants for Entrepreneurs Working to Change the World

Inaugurated in 1976 by André J. Heiniger, the chief of Rolex who succeeded founder Hans Wilsdorf, the Rolex Awards for Enterprise was originally conceived as a one-off event to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the watchmaker’s trademark waterproof Oyster case. Comprising a grant of CHF200,000 (about US$215,000), the awards recognised entrepreneurs working on solving pressing social and environmental issues. But the brand has since transformed the awards into a biennial tradition, bestowing grants to over 150 individuals in the last four decades. According to Rolex, the grants gave birth to over 50 unique inventions, over 20 million trees planted, and dozens of endangered species protected – and, of course, numerous scientific expeditions completed. This year’s Laureates of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise have just been announced – five individuals from different continents, each leading an ongoing, growing projects. Unlike the Nobel Prize, the Rolex awards are given out based on current instead of past works, making it a scholarships of sorts that fuels a wider impact for the prize winner. Bling for good Healthy diets A perfect example of an effective, ongoing project is Sanku, a non-profit organisation that tackles malnutrition with a simple but scalable solution to the age-old problem. By retrofitting flour mills in Tanzania with its patented “Dosifier”, Sanku ensures the population is provided with a complement of basic nutrients such as vitamins and met...

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Parmigiani Fleurier Parmigiani Fleurier Aug 12, 2021

Interview: Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier

Parmigiani Fleurier is one of the pioneering independent watch brands, having been established in 1996 by Michel Parmigiani, watchmaker and restorer extraordinaire. While Parmigiani is a company of relative youth, its founder is a legendary watchmaker universally acknowledged as one of the most talented restorers of vintage watches and clocks. Mr Parmigiani has repaired timepieces in the world’s most venerable watch collections, including the Patek Philippe Museum. Over 25 years of existence, Parmigiani has garnered respect for the quality of its timepieces, though commercial success has consistently eluded it. Being owned by Sandoz Family Foundation, Parmigiani has long enjoyed the largesse possible only with a multi-billion franc endowment funded by a Swiss pharmaceutical fortune. But now perhaps change is in the air. Just earlier this year, Parmigiani tapped Guido Terreni for the top job. Prior to Parmigiani, Mr Terreni spent two decades at Bulgari, the second half of which as head of its watch division. And it was during his tenure that Bulgari’s timepiece business enjoyed a revival of the sort that Parmigiani’s owners are no doubt hoping for. I caught up with Guido earlier in the year to discuss his plans for Parmigiani, including the product line up as well as Mr Parmigiani’s continued role at the company. The interview has been edited for clarity and length. SJX: Let’s start with an easy question.You joined Parmigiani in January 2021, at a difficult time ...

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Vacheron Constantin Aug 10, 2021

Exhibition: Vintage Art-Deco Gems by Vacheron Constantin in Singapore

“Classic with a Twist” is the year’s theme for Vacheron Constantin. The “twist” is obvious in several of the brand’s new releases, including the 1921 Collection Excellence Platine and Égérie for ladies, which were launched at the virtual watch fair Watches & Wonders. Interestingly, the launch also provided a glimpse of a few equally quirky watches from Vacheron Constantin’s vast archive. Now those historical gems have been transformed from virtual to tangible with an exhibition in Singapore that delves into the form watches that Vacheron Constantin produced in the early- to mid-20th century. Intriguing, unorthodox, and pretty, the dozen or so watches are on show from now until August 26 2021. Here’s a roundup of highlights from the Singapore exhibition. Show and service The Singapore event is one of several Classic with a Twist exhibitions taking place around the world over the year. Another is happening simultaneously in Vacheron Constantin’s recently-opened boutique in New York City, where it’ll run until November 2021. But unique to the Singapore event is a complimentary servicing for any American 1921, the distinctive wristwatch that’s celebrating its centenary this year – Vacheron Constantin even created a near-exact replica created with vintage parts for the occasion. The overhaul offer is open to any American 1921 wristwatch owned locally, including examples with expired warranties. The ref. 11677 from 1921 that serves as the inspira...

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Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Aug 9, 2021

Up Close: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25

Twenty-five years ago Chopard debuted the L.U.C line alongside its then-new Fleurier manufacture. Namely after the initials of its founder, the L.U.C range is primarily composed of classically-styled watches with notably fine in-house movements. To mark the 25th anniversary of L.U.C, Chopard has unveiled a classically-styled watch with notably fine in-house movement, the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25. Though the Quattro Spirit 25 is the brand’s first-ever jump hour wristwatch, it is powered by the longstanding eight-day, hand-wind movement that’s almost as old as the L.U.C line itself. Initial thoughts In the hand, the Quattro Spirit 25 instantly feels like a high quality watch. As with most L.U.C watches, the fit and finish is top class. But as is also typical for many L.U.C watches, the design is good, but not quite great. To be fair, the Quattro Spirit 25 is largely appealing, save for the shape of the lugs. Though moderately sized, the watch feels relatively tall, in part due to the smallish diameter of 40 mm. The convex, vertical case dials and short lugs also contribute to the perception of size. On the subject of the lugs, they are the only major element of the watch I would change. They short, narrow, and don’t quite match the elegant style of the watch. The dial, on the other hand, is best described as functional elegance. Bright white and expansive, the dial is clean and perhaps a bit too stark, but it is strongly legible. At the same time, the quality of the en...

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Rolex ref 6088 “Galaxy” Aug 5, 2021

Introducing the Habring2 Erwin “Star” - SJX Edition One

I’m pleased to reveal the very first 10th anniversary edition, the Habring² Erwin “Star”. Inspired by uncommon 1950s wristwatches that have long been a favourite of mine, the Erwin “Star” was almost three years in the making – my first email to Habring² was dated February 2019. It took longer than expected to realise, but I am proud of the result. Update August 5, 2021: Sold out, thank you for the interest. The genesis of the idea came to me a decade ago, when I first encountered the 36 mm “Japan Limited” that Habring² created for Shellman, a storied retailer of vintage timepieces and independent watchmaking in Tokyo. More recently, Habring² applied a similar formula to the Erwin LAB02 for Massena Lab. In the time since, I got to know Richard and Maria Habring, the husband-and-wife team behind Habring², and gained a deep appreciation of the brand uncommon approach to making quality watches accessible while emphasising practical-minded engineering. The foundation of the Erwin “Star” is Habring²’s trademark time-only wristwatch. Its proportions are almost ideal at 38.5 mm by 10.5 mm, while the A11s movement within features a jumping, or deadbeat, seconds. What makes it special – and instantly distinctive – is the “star” dial in a blue that varies with the light. The inspiration Watches from the 1950s with star hour markers have long appealed to me. Specifically, it is the Rolex ref. 6088 “Galaxy” that stands out in my memory. Produc...

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Aug 4, 2021

Kees Engelbarts Introduces the Dragon Gate Trilogy

According to Chinese legend, a carp that could jump the falls at the Dragon Gate of the Yellow River would transform into a dragon. The tale inspired the latest from Kees Engelbarts, a Dutchman who’s one of the most prominent engravers in Swiss watchmaking. The Dragon Gate Trilogy is a three-piece set of watches, each featuring a unique, hand-engraved and enamelled decoration that charts the carp’s transformation from fish to dragon. They are presented in an equally lavish box that’s hand made by a French cabinet maker and decorated by an award-winning lacquer artisan. Initial thoughts Over his two decades in watchmaking, Mr Engelbarts has created wristwatches of surprisingly diverse variety. Last year’s skeleton tourbillon was airy and organic, while the Dragon Gate Trilogy is decidedly more decorative. The trio is certainly not for everyone, though I do like the middle of the three watches, which depicts the carp in the midst of its transformation. The dial is striking and dramatic. The transformation dial But while the style is subjective, the quality of Mr Engelbart’s work is objectively excellent – unsurprising given that he’s long been a go-to engraver for a number of independent watchmakers, including veteran Svend Andersen. Mr Engelbart’s creations are truly high-quality artisanal work. The engraving is finely detailed and three dimensional, while being enhanced by Mr Engelbart’s clever use of exotic materials. The carp dial, for instance, feature...

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Ming Soon SJX 10th Anniversary Aug 3, 2021

Coming Soon: SJX 10th Anniversary Edition One by Habring2

SJX Watches is now 10 years old. Over the decade it has evolved, from a one-man show at the start – just the eponymous founder SJX – to having a full team covering both editorial and photography, along with contributors from around the world. While the site has grown, we continue to focus on notable watches and interesting stories, and you can certainly expect this to continue. The 10th anniversary is more than a milestone – it’s an opportunity to embark on the next phase of growth – and we are pleased to give you a sneak peek at our plans. The most exciting news is the debut of our very first collaborative wristwatches. Frequent readers will notice we appreciate design and detail as much as the geeky technical bits, and now we can make that a reality. Created together with outstanding watchmakers we respect and admire – the SJX Editions will be limited editions that are diverse in style and function. The first is naturally from an independent watchmaker – a favoured genre of the site since the beginning. A collaboration with Habring2, the first edition is also the most accessibly-priced of the series, most of which are by independent watchmakers as we wanted to create something unique. Make sure you don’t miss it – sign up to be the first to know. The launch Mark your calendar – the Edition One by Habring2 will be unveiled on: August 4, 8:00 pm GMT-4 New York August 5, 1:00 am GMT+1 London August 5, 8:00 am GMT+8 Singapore, Beijing, Hong Kong At t...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième While Aug 1, 2021

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième

While the Reverso was conceived as a sports watch – it flipped over to protect the crystal – the swivelling case makes more sense today as a double-faced complication (or a canvas for miniature painting). And that’s precisely what Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has done with a variety of models, ranging from the twin-time zone Duoface to the Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque with four faces. The Quadriptyque is the flagship model for the Reverso’s 90th anniversary, with 11 complications and a price tag north of US$1.6 million. Also created for the anniversary, but more affordable – relatively speaking – is the Reverso Tribute Nonantième that shows a single time on two faces, a conventional one on the front, and a charming secondary display on the back. Initial thoughts With a case that’s among the largest of Reversos, the Nonantième is a big watch. Pick it up and the size is immediately apparent; it would be considerably more elegant if smaller. It feels like a chunky, complicated watch. In fact, it’s almost as large as the Quadriptyque in diameter and length, despite being far simpler. On the front it’s typical of current Reverso design. All of the elements on the dial are classical and work together well. The only piece of the front that stands out is the moon phase display, which has a textured moon that gives the dial a little life. Its better side is the reverse, which shows hours and minutes in a manner that’s decidedly special for a Reverso. ...

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Tutima Jul 30, 2021

Tutima Introduces the M2 Seven Seas S

Historically a supplier of timepieces to the German military and police, Tutima now offers a broad line of “tool” watches. The latest from the Glashütte-based brand is the M2 Seven Seas S, the first version of its dive watch with a steel case (prior models are all titanium). Initial thoughts Tutima’s M2 line of sports watches are all big and solid, with chunky but streamlined cases modelled on the ref. 798 chronograph the brand once supplied to the German military. While simple, they are effective tool watches. The Seven Seas S sticks to the same formula, except in steel. That means it’s heavier, which might not be for everyone given the size. But the steel has the upside of a brushed finished with some polished accents, giving the case and bracelet a more varied look than the uniform sandblasted finish of the titanium model. But the best thing about the Seven Seas S is the version with a yellow dégradé dial, which darkens to a green-black at its edges. It’s an unusual and striking finish that sets the Seven Seas S apart from most of the competition. The only drawback with the new Seven Seas is the ETA 2824 inside. It’s robust and easy to service, but has a short power reserve of just 38 hours, which means it’ll probably stop if off the wrist for more than a day. Power reserves of 50 to 70 hours are now the industry norm, even at the entry level, so this disadvantages the Seven Seas. The Seven Seas S is relatively affordable and fairly competitively price...

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Jul 29, 2021

Recommended Reading: Visiting with Remy Cools

A specialist retailer of independent watchmaking, Watch4moi recently published its first feature article – and it’s worth a look. Watch4moi founder Shawn Mehta paid a visit to Remy Cools, the 20-something French watchmaker who made his debut last year with a tourbillon of his own creation. Now based in Annecy, a town in France just an hour from Geneva by car, Mr Cools is in the process of finishing his first batch of wristwatches, with much of the work being done the old-fashioned way, with manual tools. The Remy Cools Tourbillon Souscription. Image – Remy Cools Mr Mehta took a look at the machines, processes, and craft that go into one of Mr Cools’ tourbillons, the first of which will reach clients later this year. He describes, for instance, the process of finishing the raw wheels Mr Cools obtains from a supplier: first the teeth are cut individually on a lathe, followed by a dozen or so hours of hand finishing. Read the story on Watch4moi.com.  

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Piaget s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Jul 28, 2021

In-Depth: The Audacity of Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept

A relentless pursuit of diminishing returns seems to be the norm in the world of high-end watchmaking. Better finishing, lightness, longer power reserve, or chronometric performance, refined and enhanced to the nth degree – there is always something to improve, but by tinier and tinier margins. Brands and watchmakers, in turn, often develop a specific niche, trying to best each other with ever-smaller improvements. In the niche of ultra-thin watches, there are only a handful of serious players. Piaget is one such player. The brand’s forte is thickness, or rather, thinness – Piaget has held the record for the thinnest production watch on multiple occasions, with only a handful of rivals able to best its various records. And now it’s the reigning champ once again with the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC). Just 2 mm high in its entirety, the AUC is so thin it looks almost like an optical illusion in photos – and a prop in real life. But it is a perfectly functional – and water-resistant – mechanical wristwatch. So the question is, how did Piaget do it? And of course, do the diminishing marginal gains justify the retail price of approximately 400,000 Swiss francs? Altiplano evolution Prior to the AUC, Piaget’s best-known attempt at the crown was the Altiplano 900P. Released in 2013, the Altiplano 900P stands just 3.65 mm high. It held the record of the thinnest mechanical watch on the market until 2015, when the title taken by Piaget’s sister brand, Jaeg...

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Zodiac edition Jul 28, 2021

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Wristmon Minotaur

Four years after the debut of the Joker – and its myriad subsequent iterations – Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin still manages to surprise and impress. The latest version of Chaykin’s googly-eyed wristwatch is the Wristmon Minotaur. The third instalment in the watchmaker’s annual Chinese zodiac edition, the Minotaur has a case and dial that mimics the head of a bull, since 2021 is the Year of the Ox. Although its hour and minute display are identical to the early versions of the Joker, the Minotaur has been upgraded in several ways, including with a dual-letter day display and a Vaucher base movement. Initial thoughts The Minotaur is another excellent design by Mr Chaykin, and one of his more amusing creations since the original Joker. Not only does the dial form a face, but the case has been reworked to resemble a bull’s head with asymmetric lugs where the upper pair resemble a pair of horns. More importantly, the Minotaur is not merely a tweak of colour or design. Its functionality has been revamped, namely with the nostril display that shows the first two letters of the day. In fact, the novel day display is another example of Mr Chaykin’s ingenious realisation of function following form, but done well enough that it feels just right. And the price of the Minotaur is in line with recent watches in the Wristmon collection, which is around US$22,000. While significantly pricier than the original Joker that cost around about US$7,500, the new ...

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Girard-Perregaux 230th Anniversary Exhibition Jul 28, 2021

Girard-Perregaux 230th Anniversary Exhibition in Singapore

In celebration of its 230th anniversary, Girard-Perregaux has extracted part of its museum collection and sent it across the world to Singapore, where they form an exhibition on the watchmaker’s history. Shaping The Know Since 1791 provides a peek into the company’s past milestones and timepieces, illustrated by a diversity of items on show, ranging from enamelled pocket watches from the late 18th century to an ultra-modern wristwatch with its case and bridges in sapphire crystal. Pocket watches Though the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges is Girard-Perregaux’s best known complication, the brand is instead focusing on its wider repertoire in the exhibition. Arranged in a chronological manner, the company’s history is explained with a series of displays that include notes as well as representative watches of each era, from the 18th to 21st centuries. Notable contemporary pieces include the original Laureato from 1975, as well as the avant-garde Quasar Light that reinterprets the brand’s iconic triple bridges in sapphire crystal. The original Laureato that was quartz the exhibition unfolds the brand’s unusual origins: while husband-and-wife Constant Girard and Marie Perregaux founded the brand in 1856, the company later acquired Jean-François Bautte, a brand that was established in 1791, explaining the 230th anniversary in 2021. A pioneer in ultra-thin timepieces, Bautte specialised in pocket watches decorated with enamel and gemstones, reflecting the prevail...

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Massena Lab Refreshes Jul 26, 2021

Massena Lab Refreshes the Uni-Racer with Fun Colours

Massena Lab is a design studio that got its start collaborating with independent watchmakers on limited edition timepieces. But the firm more recently unveiled watches under its own label, starting with last year’s Uni-Racer, a chronograph modelled on the mid-20th century Universal Genève “Big Eye” chronograph. Founded by William Rohr, best known for being the former manager of the Timezone.com watch forum, Massena Lab follows up with the Uni-Racer Holiday Collection, a trio of chronographs time clad in funky colours with a retro bent that bring to mind watches of the 1970s. Initial thoughts Vintage remakes have been trendy for several years now, and the sheer number of them mean they are often hit-or-miss. It’s rare for a remake to get the details right ­­– especially since the case and movement are modern ­– something that takes a keen eye to decide what to copy and what to tweak. Mr Rohr’s creations often get the details right – the two-tone sector dial jumping seconds and gilt dial chronograph are cases in point – reflecting his decades of watch collecting. And importantly they are fairly priced. But the Uni-Racer Chronograph stands out from Massena Lab’s portfolio to date. Not only was it the first watch to bear the Massena Lab brand, but it was a near-exact copy of the vintage original – which split opinions and elicited lots of vocal critiques on social media. Uni-Racer “Rally” Still, for anyone who appreciates old-school design, ...

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Chanel Introduces Jul 26, 2021

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Marble Edition

While Chanel started the year with the J12 in rainbow colours inspired by electronic dance music, its latest is sleek and stark in black and white. The Monsieur Marble Edition is a variation of the Monsieur Edition Noire from 2019, retaining the same steel and ceramic case – and the in-house Caliber 1 movement – but matched with a dial in glossy black marble with white veining. Initial thoughts I liked the original Monsieur de Chanel when it was launched in 2016. Even though Chanel is a primarily fashion house, the Monsieur was proof it made excellent watches for men. Its design was thoughtful, and the movement attractively executed in both style and construction. The subsequent Monsieur in black ceramic had all the same qualities, but an monochromatic look that made it more appealing. And the new version is even more appealing, because the marble dial looks good. Even though the only change is the marble dial, its natural grain goes well with the design of the Monsieur, so the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Price wise, however, the new Monsieur is harder to digest. At just under US$37,000, it costs almost US$10,000 more than the original version in ceramic, which was a reasonable-enough proposition considering the design and movement. The Marble Edition is unquestionably beautiful – I’d want one – but the price is steep. Black and white Each dial is made of one piece of marble carefully cut into three to form each section of the dial, allowing the ...

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