Monochrome
Cartier has staged a strong comeback amongst collectors in recent years thanks to its ever-growing Cartier Privé collection and other historic recreations such as the Pebble, Crash and Tank Cintrée. A range of high-end, mechanically advanced and visually appealing watches, it can be seen as the resurgence of the all-time favourite Collection Privée Cartier Paris, […]
Time+Tide
Let’s be honest. When people attend a watch fair as huge as Watches & Wonders, they’re most excited about new watches and not so much new colour schemes. There is an exception to this, and that’s when the colours are just too nice to ignore. Of the new IWC Portugieser Chronograph collection, we got our … ContinuedThe post A playful yet respectful new colour for the IWC Portugieser Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
First debuted in a piece unique for Only Watch 2023, TAG Heuer's first mechanical split-seconds chronograph is now in mainline production.The post The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph is a high-octane, high-horology take on the brand’s legendary motorsports chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Not ones to let development go to waste, TAG Heuer show off their Only Watch 2023 follow-up as well as plenty of line expansions.The post Every TAG Heuer release of Watches & Wonders 2024, with a haute horlogerie Monaco and solid gold Skipper appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer is launching an upmarket of its sailing chronograph at Watches & Wonders 2024: the Carrera Chronograph Skipper in 18k rose gold is essentially the same as the steel iteration released in 2023, save for the precious metal case. Employing the well received “Glassbox” case, the Skipper has the signature domed dial flange that acts as an inner bezel, accentuated by a domed sapphire crystal. Unique to the Skipper model are the teal sub-dial at nine and the tri-colour register at three, both modelled on the vintage original. Initial Thoughts I am a fan of the Carrera Glassbox. It’s a surprisingly versatile model – some variants have a no-nonsense style that bring to mind the original racing chronographs of the 1960s, while others like the Skipper are strikingly coloured. Most variants nonetheless are inspired by the vintage Carrera in all its flavours. None of the other Carrera models come close to the Skipper’s sunburst blue dial with teal accents; it looks quite splendid under the sun. Not to mention that the Skipper happens to be very wearable at 39 mm. Whether the gold version is an appealing proposition is another questions altogether. Most would opt for the steel Skipper just as a matter of budget. That said, the rose gold Skipper at CHF 21,000, is an acceptable value proposition as solid-gold chronographs go. Its competitive advantage lies in the appealing, historically-inspired design and in-house column wheel chronograph movement – there are lots o...
Hodinkee
The lion's mane pattern of the dial is something that you have to see to truly appreciate.
Hodinkee
JLC combines a chronograph and moonphase in its innovative model defined by its two independent gear trains.
Hodinkee
Inspired by various times of day, these dials infuse new life into the classic line.
Hodinkee
The inspiration continues to flow into the Glassbox format with this highly legible chrono for W&W 2024.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2024 is the Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph, the brand’s first-ever mechanical split-seconds chronograph wristwatch. Initially launched as a piece unique for the postponed 2023 edition of Only Watch, the Monaco Split Seconds now enters regular production in red and blue liveries. Titanium inside and out with an integrated movement developed by Vaucher – the movement bridges and plates are titanium – the Monaco Split Seconds is a premium product with a premium price that puts the brand in the haute horlogerie segment, which also communicates a mixed message given the brand’s focus on affordable chronographs. Initial thoughts While sports timekeeping is core to TAG Heuer’s DNA, the brand’s only wrist-worn split seconds chronographs to date were of the quartz and digital variety. And given the delayed sale of the Only Watch example, the Monaco Split Seconds will be TAG Heuer’s first mechanical split-seconds chronograph sold publicly, enhancing the collector appeal. One of the most iconic square watches in history – and probably the only recognisable sports chronograph with a form case – the Monaco has proven adaptable to both retro and futuristic designs over the years; the Split Seconds is of course the latter. While I find the overall styling a bit over the top, especially the X-shaped braces that form part of the dial, I can’t help but admire many of the details, such as the stepped box sapphire crysta...
Revolution
Fratello
Cartier is a brand that knows how to manage its hero designs. Few brands have as many iconic designs under their wings as the Parisian Maison. The Tortue is one that you may not be as familiar with as the Tank and the Santos. That could very well be because it hasn’t been in Cartier’s […] Visit Introducing: Cartier Privé Collection Tortue Hours/Minutes And Monopoussoir Chronograph to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Amidst the plethora of sports watches with integrated bracelets, the Zenith Defy Skyline stands out for its uncluttered design and relative affordability. Now the lineup is joined by the Defy Skyline Chronograph. The chronograph maintains many of the signature features of the existing models, such as its octagonal case and star-patterned dial. Debuting in three dial colours, Defy chronograph is amongst Zenith’s sportier offerings. Like other recent launches, it is powered by the second-generation El Primero calibre. Initial thoughts The Defy Skyline Chronograph is another option for an enthusiasts seeking a sports chronograph with a contemporary design and integrated bracelet. There are admittedly many, many options in this category, but the Defy chronograph is one of the value-minded offerings. At CHF11,900, the Defy chronograph with its in-house movement is competitively priced compared to other offerings in the sports watch market. The brand has opted for a conservative design while retaining a modern edge. Though the overall design is familiar, it has incorporates a few unusual details, including a polygonal flange around the dial. The watch is being launched in only three colours, all simple, easy shades that are well suited to the design, though not exciting. With the limited colours in mind, some might want to wait for subsequent releases that may adopt the colours found in its time-only counterpart. Zenith’s latest addition The Defy chronograph joins Zenith’...
SJX Watches
Amongst Vacheron Constantin’s novelties at Watches & Wonders is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine (CEP), the latest model to receive the monochromatic, all-platinum treatment. Coming two years after the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph CEP, this utilises platinum extensively throughout the watch, and even the stitching of the strap, while maintaining many of the standard model’s key characteristics. Initial thoughts On its face, the new Tourbillon Chronograph closely resembles the standard model in rose gold. The view from the back is practically identical – which is a good thing given the appeal of the cal. 3200, a recent in-house calibre (and not Lemania based) but one constructed with traditional aesthetics and details. Nevertheless, being a CEP edition, it embraces a primarily grey palette. This is tastefully complemented by the blue accents, including the blued steel hands, and a single blued screw on the tourbillon cage. It’s a straightforward yet effective combination. The formula is the same one applied to past CEP editions, so the similarity between this and the standard model is understandable. However, varying the design more in order to distinguish this from the regular production model would have made it a bit more special. Nevertheless, the CEP possesses a refined charm and is more appealing than its current standard model, albeit with a price tag that is quite a bit more, as is usually the case for CEP...
Worn & Wound
Zenith returns to the Defy collection this year at Watches & Wonders with the introduction of a Defy Skyline Chronograph. This is a version of the next-gen Defy that Zenith fans have been anticipating since the collection’s debut, given the long line of chronographs that have populated Defy collections past and present. The new Defy Skyline Chronograph follows iterations of the Skyline that have played with materials and skeletonization, so it seems possible (even likely) that eventually the chronograph will get similar treatment. For now, we have a trio of references in stainless steel that feel like a logical extension of the Defy Skyline series. The 42mm case is effectively unchanged from previous skylines, and is Zenith’s contemporary take on the original 8-sided Defy case first seen in the late 1960s. The Defy, as opposed to the Chronomaster and Pilot lines, has always been Zenith’s playground for the avant-garde and the unusual, and the highly sculptural case design of this watch, that traces a lineage back to the original, underscores the very nature of what the Defy is. Dial options at launch include metallic black, blue, and silver, and feature the signature star pattern that has been present in the Skyline from the beginning. The subdials are oversized and overlap just slightly (perhaps not as much as on a Chronomaster) and are color matched to the main dial, but do not feature the Skyline stars. As with most other watches running on El Primero movement...
Fratello
You might have to look twice, but you’re looking at the updated IWC Portugieser Automatic 42. These models have a completely re-engineered case construction with a more slender side profile. The bezel-less watches feature double-domed box-style glass sapphire crystals for unobstructed views of the sunburst dials or the versions finished with 15 layers of transparent […] Visit The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph to read the full article.
Deployant
Vacheron Constantin introduces a host of new timepieces for 2024, including one Haute Joaillerie piece. These novelties include new variations of the Overseas, Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph, Patrimony Manual-Winding, Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date and Égérie Moon Phase, as well the Égérie The Pleats of Time concept watch and Haute Joaillerie Grand Lady Kalla. Vacheron ConstantinRead More
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne is marking 25 years of its landmark chronograph of 1999 with the Datograph Up/Down “25th Anniversary”, a limited edition that’s a subtle but significant variation of the familiar model. The anniversary Datograph sports a dark blue dial matched with a white gold case that contains the much loved L951.6 movement. Limited to 125 pieces, the new model joins the regular production versions in platinum and pink gold (both with black dials) that remain in the catalogue. And it’s the more affordable of the anniversary editions, with the flagship being the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”. Initial thoughts While the anniversary Datograph doesn’t seem like much on the face of it, the colour and material is fairly unique for the model. The Datograph has only ever been offered in platinum, pink or yellow gold, and never before with a blue dial (except on one occasion). Though left unstated in the official announcement, the blue dial is clearly a reference to a unique example of the first-generation Datograph that had a blue dial, something that fans of the brand will appreciate. Moreover, the Datograph is rarely iterated as a limited edition. This is only the third Datograph limited edition (following the Datograph Lumen of 2019), leaving aside gem-set models. Consequently, there’s a lot to like about this, with a big caveat. As comparably-priced alternative to the regular production models, this is a compelling proposition. However, ...
SJX Watches
For the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, A. Lange & Söhne is celebrating in a big way with the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”. Given the milestone anniversary, it’s fitting to see the most technically exceptional Datograph delivered in the appealing Honeygold “Lumen” format first seen in 2021 with the Zeitwerk. This is the ultimate anniversary Datograph, with a price to match. The 25th anniversary, however, is also being marked with the more affordable Datograph Up/Down in white gold. Initial thoughts It’s hard to overstate the impact that the original Datograph had on fine watchmaking – specifically the construction of high-end chronograph movements – since its debut in 1999. Much has been written about this moment, but in short this is an anniversary worth celebrating. As good as the “Lumen” is, and it’s nearly faultless, I expected more from Lange. At the end of the day it’s a combination of known elements, so the end result is not groundbreaking. That said, there isn’t much I’d change. The underlying L951 calibre remains best-in-class after a quarter of a century, and the tourbillon version, which has now been in production for nine years, is executed masterfully. Given the degree of complication and Lange’s proclivity for making big, sturdy watches, the proportions are actually not that bad. While known to be a bit top heavy, the overall dimensions are not outside the norm, especially for a watch of this complexit...
SJX Watches
Perhaps unsurprising given Cartier’s track record with the Privé collection, the jeweller has revived its popular single-button chronograph – but with an all-new movement. The Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph is a manual-wind chronograph powered by the cal. 1928 MC, a form movement conceived for the watch. Making its debut well over a decade after the discontinuation of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) version, the new Tortue Monopoussoir is slightly larger than its predecessor, but also thinner and more elegantly proportioned. While the cal. 1928 MC inside is new – the movement is notable in itself – the aesthetic is more vintage inspired, particularly on the yellow gold version; the other version is platinum. The cal. 1928 MC Initial thoughts Although relatively straightforward in concept and design, the Tortue Monopoussoir is executed well. Although the visuals are faithful to the vintage originals, especially with the yellow gold version, the watch feels contemporary because of the size. At just over 10 mm high, the proportions of the case are excellent. It feels elegant and neither too big nor too small. And it is surprisingly thin for a chronograph, which is especially appealing. Relatively to its predecessors, the new Tortue Monopoussoir sits in between: larger than the first CPCP version, but smaller than the CPCP XL model, making it just right. Between the yellow gold and platinum models, the former looks most like the 1928 origin...
SJX Watches
For IWC, 2024 is the year of the Portugieser. The collection receives a full refresh that covers the Portugieser Automatic 40, Portugieser Automatic 42 (previously known as the 7 Days), Portugieser Chronograph, and Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44. In addition, IWC has introduced an all-new model, the Portugieser Hand Wound Tourbillon Day & Night with a flying (and hacking) tourbillon. The standout debut, however, is without question the Portugieser Eternal Calendar – which we cover in a separate story. With the facelift, IWC has refined its core collection with subtle nips and tucks, including slimmer cases, while retaining the familiar design. The revamp includes new liveries including metallic finish dials in baby blue and champagne. The champagne finish, known as “Dune” Initial thoughts I’ve always enjoyed the aesthetic of the Portugieser collection, which is perhaps the only collection of dress watches of any brand where the (over)sizing is a feature rather than a drawback. The new collection is no exception; each piece is attractive and several models have received thoughtful technical upgrades, including an escapement with enhanced magnetism resistance. And the dials are not merely new colours, but sport detailed finishing and thoughtful details. Of course, there’s little in the way of true novelty in the collection outside of the Eternal Calendar that is a rare complication executed smartly but for an hard-to-believe six-figure price. Even the Tourbillo...
Time+Tide
The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph collection finally brings the El Primero into a casual yet playful setting.The post Casually showing off with the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Ancient Rome is a constant well of inspiration at Bulgari that deftly transforms architectural motifs from the past into fresh, stylish designs. The dynamic geometry of the Octo Roma, released in 2012 and refreshed in 2023, is said to have been inspired by the octagonal coffering found on the vaults of the 4th-century Basilica of […]
Hodinkee
After last year's update to the Octo Roma collection, Bulgari continues to modernize its lineup.
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