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Chronograph Watches · Page 142

Zenith’s Defy Skyline Black Ceramic models cross over to the dark side of horology Time+Tide
Mar 27, 2023

Zenith’s Defy Skyline Black Ceramic models cross over to the dark side of horology

The Skyline series gets two new models, decked out in sinister full black ceramic The Defy Skyline Skeleton Black Ceramic is a real contender among stealth-wealth showpieces Both models are powered by time-only El Primero calibres Zenith’s Defy collection has gone over to the dark side for Watches and Wonders. The brand has just released … ContinuedThe post Zenith’s Defy Skyline Black Ceramic models cross over to the dark side of horology appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer’s Carrera Glassbox Chronograph celebrates the 60th anniversary of the Carrera Time+Tide
Mar 27, 2023

TAG Heuer’s Carrera Glassbox Chronograph celebrates the 60th anniversary of the Carrera

With the flashiness of the Carrera Plasma and Aquaracer Full Gold, TAG Heuer takes a more subtle approach for their Watches & Wonders release celebrating the Carrera’s 60th anniversary. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox features a new case size, refreshed movement and a gorgeously vintage box-domed crystal that takes us back right to the … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer’s Carrera Glassbox Chronograph celebrates the 60th anniversary of the Carrera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Parmigiani Fleurier debuts a world-first with the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Time+Tide
Mar 27, 2023

Parmigiani Fleurier debuts a world-first with the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante

Re-imagining a use case for their Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante calibre, Parmigiani Fleurier present the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante In classic Parmigiani style, it’s a minimal take on an elapsed time complication, negating the need for a timing bezel Powered by a modified GMT Rattrapante calibre dubbed the PF052 It’s safe to say that Parmigiani … ContinuedThe post Parmigiani Fleurier debuts a world-first with the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer updates the sporty Carrera Chronograph with a welcome hit of colour Time+Tide
Mar 27, 2023

TAG Heuer updates the sporty Carrera Chronograph with a welcome hit of colour

New racing-inspired colourways for the 42mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Black and blue sunburst dials are offset with bright orange and red accents The watches are powered by the in-house column wheel chronograph calibre Heuer 02  The lineage of the Carrera is a rich one – beginning in 1963, named after the fearsome Carrera Panamericana … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer updates the sporty Carrera Chronograph with a welcome hit of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Carrera Date is a quarter in colour Time+Tide
Mar 27, 2023

TAG Heuer Carrera Date is a quarter in colour

Four new colours for a traditionally sized TAG Heuer Carrera time-only model A revised case profile with improved thickness and wearability Upgraded from Calibre 5 to Calibre 7 History is a hugely important aspect of any new Carrera release, owing to the rich heritage of the model and the moments and personalities associated with it. … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer Carrera Date is a quarter in colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon adds more diamonds Time+Tide
Mar 27, 2023

TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon adds more diamonds

TAG Heuer’s super avant-garde Plasma is back with even more diamonds The entire dial is a one-piece diamond plate with two smaller polycrystalline diamonds used for the sub-dials Powered by a tourbillon calibre with a carbon nanotube balance spring, its anti-magnetic properties are excellent Upon its initial release in 2022, the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon adds more diamonds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph SLGC001 SJX Watches
Mar 27, 2023

Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph SLGC001

Grand Seiko made a big splash at last year’s Watches & Wonders with the launch of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon, the brand’s first complicated mechanical wristwatch. For 2023, the brand is back with another first-time complication that will likely be one of the most talked-about watches of the show, the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. The first purely mechanical Grand Seiko chronograph ever, the Tentagraph is a high-spec sports chronograph that fills a hole in the Grand Seiko portfolio. “Tentagraph” is a portmanteau of the four key features of the watch: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and of course, the chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph is an important watch for Grand Seiko that enables the brand to stand toe to toe with Rolex, Omega, Zenith, Breitling, and other stalwarts in the popular category of mechanical sports chronograph. Not only is the category a hitherto untapped commercial opportunity for Grand Seiko, it is an opportunity for the brand to demonstrate its technical know-how and ambition. In this context, I would have expected the brand to release an integrated chronograph movement, perhaps based on the 6S movement family. But Grand Seiko has chosen to build a modular chronograph calibre based on the 9SA5, the flagship Grand Seiko automatic movement introduced in 2020, signalling the brand’s commitment to the calibre and its proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement. My colleague Richard Lee notes that the 9S...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Odysseus Chronograph SJX Watches
Mar 27, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Odysseus Chronograph

Unveiled in 2019, the Odysseus was A. Lange & Söhne’s first foray into sports watches. A commercial success since launch, the Odysseus has since become one of the brand’s most desirable watches. Though it has been iterated in different metals (including titanium), it has remained the same model, until now. Long anticipated and alluded to by chief executive Wilhelm Schmid, the Odysseus Chronograph has finally arrived. While powered by a brand-new automatic movement that incorporates a novel and fanciful reset feature, the watch retains the same Odysseus styling. Initial thoughts The Odysseus Chronograph is not unexpected. From the start the Odysseus case was designed to feature integrated pushers resembling crown guards, making it ideal for a chronograph. And the Odysseus Chronograph looks exactly as expected. Though the design is not surprising, the Odysseus Chronograph is cleverly designed. It manages to retain the aesthetics of its predecessor despite being substantially more complicated. The key visual difference is the addition of just two central chronograph hands. The consistent design was accomplished by smartly endowing the large integrated pushers with dual functionality of activating the chronograph or calendar adjustment. Predictably, the new movement inside is automatic – atypical for Lange but sticking to industry convention for a sports watch. However, being automatic means that most of the chronograph mechanism is hidden under the bridges and rotor...

The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski in multi-faceted micro-blasted titanium Time+Tide
Mar 27, 2023

The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski in multi-faceted micro-blasted titanium

The new Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski is paired with a gloss black dial for more refined looks. The 41mm case is made from micro-blasted titanium. Richard Orlinski’s polygonal style makes the watch feel quite surreal. It has been six years since Hublot first teamed up with acclaimed sculptor Richard Orlinski, transforming their signature look … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski in multi-faceted micro-blasted titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Parmigiani Fleurier dresses up the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Time+Tide
Mar 27, 2023

Parmigiani Fleurier dresses up the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante

Parmigiani Fleurier follows up arguably their best 2022 release with a precious metal version in 18k rose gold The sleek GMT watch features a stunning hand-guilloché grain d’orge dial highlighted by 18k rose gold appliques Combining rattrapante and GMT functionality, the PF051 calibre may just be the greatest thing since sliced bread Causing a splash … ContinuedThe post Parmigiani Fleurier dresses up the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week In Watches Ep. 42: Longines Reclaims Their Heritage, Furlan Marri & Urwerk Get Reloaded Worn & Wound
Mar 26, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 42: Longines Reclaims Their Heritage, Furlan Marri & Urwerk Get Reloaded

This episode of A Week In Watches is the answer to the ultimate question of life, the universe, and everything: 42. It is also the lead in to Watches & Wonders, which begins tomorrow. Our editorial team will be there in full force, and you can follow along with all the action right here on Worn & Wound, and on our YouTube channel, which you can subscribe to right here. In the lead up to the show, we’re seeing plenty of exciting releases hoping to get the jump on things, so this week we’re taking a look at something new (but also old) from Urwerk in the form of a new 102 Reloaded. We’ve also got looks at new watches from Czapek, Longines, Vulcain, and Furlan Marri for a healthy selection of new watches across the spectrum. We’ve got plenty more to say about the new Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph right here, a watch that reclaims the brand’s history as the first to use a flyback mechanism in a wristwatch back in the 1920s. Keep an eye out for hands-on impressions of the rest of these watches coming to the pages of Worn & Wound soon. Let us know your thoughts in the comments below. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 42: Longines Reclaims Their Heritage, Furlan Marri & Urwerk Get Reloaded appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The new Bulgari Octo Roma collection Time+Tide
Mar 26, 2023

The new Bulgari Octo Roma collection

The new Bulgari Octo Roma collection pays tribute to the Swiss watchmaking side of the Italian brand. With dials featuring a hobnail pattern, their sportiness is accentuated. Both Automatic and Chronograph models come with a steel bracelet and extra rubber strap with a quick-release system. Sneaking in just before 2023’s edition of Watches & Wonders, … ContinuedThe post The new Bulgari Octo Roma collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Engineering a classic: The history of IWC’s Ingenieur Time+Tide
Mar 25, 2023

Engineering a classic: The history of IWC’s Ingenieur

While IWC is rightly known for their wide range of classic Pilot’s watches, including the Big Wrist Energy radiating from their Big Pilot’s models, their many chronograph references, and the flieger-style Mark series, there’s another name that’s no less important in their history: The Ingenieur. First developed in the 1950s for technical and scientific applications, … ContinuedThe post Engineering a classic: The history of IWC’s Ingenieur appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph collection celebrates the 80th anniversary of the classic model Time+Tide
Mar 24, 2023

The new Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph collection celebrates the 80th anniversary of the classic model

Breitling releases new Premier B01 Chronographs with a slimmer profile Six models, five new dial colors, available in stainless steel and gold The collection celebrates the 80th anniversary of their Premier chronographs If there’s one thing Breitling is synonymous with, it’s their history of innovation with chronographs and chronograph movements. According to Breitling, after decades … ContinuedThe post The new Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph collection celebrates the 80th anniversary of the classic model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Eric L. Worn & Wound
Mar 24, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Eric L.

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, long time reader Eric L. shares their trio of watches, which include a brand I had to Google to discover. This is a collection motivated not by hype, but by enthusiasm alone so hat’s off to Eric for this selection. Bonos points for one of the coolest G-Shocks in existence.  If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. Header image credit: Analog:Shift Long time listener, first time caller. NATO’s are great…always. Full Stop…no question.  Keep up the good work folks. Omega Speedmaster MKII Racing – $4,000 It’s a Speedmaster, but you didn’t type in “best watch algorithm” in the Google Machine to find out which Speedy you should buy (It’s the Professional Moonwatch…it went to the moon, but Omega rarely talks about it). Plus, everyone knows that the 70’s racing scene was so funky and lit that it deserves more credit that it receives. Funky case, orange highlights, tach ring under the glass…it’s just better than the Moonwatch in all respects, and I’ll fight anyone who says otherwise. Scared of vintage watches? Get the reissue with a co-axial movement that’s COSC certified. Elliott Brown Houlton Professional – $550 Analog watches are a thing of the past you say?  All soldiers, sailors, airmen, and marines need are G-Shocks and Timex Ironman watches, you say?  Well my brothers and sisters in the UK’s Special Boat ...

Vulcain Knows How to Play The Hits and the Chrongraphe 1970’s is their Latest Vintage Tune Worn & Wound
Mar 24, 2023

Vulcain Knows How to Play The Hits and the Chrongraphe 1970’s is their Latest Vintage Tune

Since Vulcain received a new lease on life with entrepreneur and brand enthusiast Guillaume Laidet at the helm, the storied brand has not missed. By tapping into Vulcain’s deep archives and playing the hits, so to speak, many of us have thoroughly enjoyed getting reacquainted with the brand. Debuting with their most iconic watch, the Cricket, was the logical first step in relaunching Vulcain. It’s a watch that has all the name-cache with it being the first mechanical alarm watch and its historical ties to several United States presidents. Following the Cricket, Laidet and company hit us with an unexpected dive watch with the Skindiver Nautique. Once again, by essentially producing a recreation of a past reference, Vulcain released a diver with all the vintage charm you could ask for (a type of watch that every brand needs in their arsenal), packed into a tidy 38mm case. So how does Vulcain move forward from the aforementioned models? Well, with a presidential watch and a diver already in the quiver, naturally a chronograph is the next move. Continuing with what has been clearly working for the brand thus far, Vulcain recently announced the Chronographe 1970’s, a handsome chronograph and another spot-on revival from their back catalog. There is a certain magnetism and allure to the Chronographe 1970’s which I’ll try to identify as we go on. First, the dial. I applauded the typeface choice on the Skindiver Nautique during a recent On-Wrist Reaction, and I’ll do t...

Depancel Sticks to a Tried-and-True Formula with the Legend 60s Chronograph Worn & Wound
Mar 23, 2023

Depancel Sticks to a Tried-and-True Formula with the Legend 60s Chronograph

It has been awhile since we’ve checked in on Depancel, an up and coming watch brand based out of the sleepy alpine town, Annecy, France. It was their Serie-A Allure that last caught our attention last year – a dual-register automatic chronograph heavy on the automotive design cues, which for the spry brand, was their first-ever production chronograph. Since then, it seems they’ve come a long way in a relatively short time. Depancel has expanded their collection, defined their design language (primarily auto-inspired), and now they even have a showroom (in Annecy) for those keen on seeing their collection in the metal. Despite the evolution, that doesn’t mean the brand has lost touch with the watch enthusiast community or their passion for all things automotive. Their new Legend 60s chronograph encompasses everything that has made the brand successful thus far.   The brand has heard a growing number of requests from Depancel collectors and enthusiasts alike to return to their racing chronograph roots. Even though they’ve done away with their online questionnaire that allows for the community to directly make suggestions as to what they’d love to see from the brand, the Legend 60s chronograph proves that they firmly still have their ear to the ground. And what better way to return to their “racing chronograph roots” than to develop a watch inspired by the Formula One racing scene in the 1960s. The Legend 60s marks another first for the Depancel, and that com...

Furlan Marri Adds a Trio of Sector Dial Three-Handers to their Permanent Collection Worn & Wound
Mar 23, 2023

Furlan Marri Adds a Trio of Sector Dial Three-Handers to their Permanent Collection

You might recall that when Blake Buettner brought us news of Furlan Marri’s very first fully mechanical watch (after the success of their popular meca-quartz chronograph that we still can’t believe ever sold for under $500 during the crowdfunding campaign) he mentioned that the limited production black dialed three hander he had in for review would be followed up by a trio of models in the brand’s permanent collection. That was in June of 2022, and at long last, those watches are here. These three new references use the same platform as the previously issued “Black Sector” 2116-A, but in an array of colors that give the watch a new impact.  The new dials, Salmon Sector, Grey Sector, and White Sector, have been given reference numbers 2154-A, 2161-A, and 2145-A, respectively. While the Grey Sector has what Furlan Marri refers to as a double printed dial, the white and salmon versions both have applied baton hour markers, and all references have a fine texture applied to the dial. The Breguet style numerals at the cardinal positions have become a hallmark of sorts for Furlan Marri, and those remain on all three variants. Dial text is minimal (just the Furlan Marri wordmark and the reference number discreetly out of the way between 4 and 5), the sector layout identical to the black version from last year. Fans of aggressive symmetry will be quite pleased, I think.  An area where Furlan Marri has excelled since the launch of that first chronograph back in 2021 is i...

Petermann Bédat Introduces the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Mar 23, 2023

Petermann Bédat Introduces the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Founded by watchmakers Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, Petermann Bédat made its debut with the 1967 powered by an elaborately finished movement featuring a deadbeat seconds. Now, the duo has just unveiled their next creation which is a step-up in complexity – the Reference 2941, a mono-pusher split-seconds chronograph. Presented in a 38 mm platinum case and limited to ten pieces, the 2941 follows the design language of the 1967 with a transparent dial and an emphasis on movement finishing. Initial thoughts The 2941 at a glance is a conceptually impressive release that meets the high expectations resulting from its previous release. But perhaps one may ponder over the under-dial execution of the split-seconds mechanism (as opposed to a traditional approach that puts it on the back). Undoubtedly, the finishing remains top notch. The movement sports numerous gracefully formed bridges and a notable emphasis on black-polished components. More broadly, it is uncommon to see a new chronograph movement designed from the ground up, even more so a rattrapante with an instantaneously jumping minute counter. That said, the movement architecture seems paradoxical. Part of the appeal of a finely-finished split-seconds chronograph is the intricate and layered view of the rattrapante mechanism on top of the chronograph seen through a display case back. Thus, Petermann Bedat’s approach of installing the split-seconds under the dial is questionable, particularly considering the n...

Doxa’s New Sub 200 C-Graph II is Smaller, Slimmer & Ready for Your Next Cave Dive (Or Not) Worn & Wound
Mar 23, 2023

Doxa’s New Sub 200 C-Graph II is Smaller, Slimmer & Ready for Your Next Cave Dive (Or Not)

When I hear the words “Doxa Sub,” it’s hard for me to not start conjuring images in the ol’ noggin of that wide cushion, pebble-like steel case, the orange accented no-deco table splitting bezel duty with an elapsed time display, and the ever-so whimsical dial. The Sub 300 is a damn near perfect watch, in my humble opinion. But lately (over the course of two years), Doxa has given their flagship dive watch some company within their catalog by way of a couple releases that, at glance, might not resemble the Doxa you and I are used to. The brand with a storied history in the sport of diving and oceanic exploration has been doing some exploring of their own, but into different case design waters. I’m referring to their contemporary divers that use more of a conventional round case shape like the Sub 200 and the Sub 200 C-Graph. Recently, Doxa released the second coming of their Sub 200 chronograph with the Sub 200 C-Graph II. There are notable differences with the newcomer that include several models within the collection now sporting a steel bezel (as a traditional Doxa should have), a new dial finish, and smaller case proportions that amount to a more wearable, everyday diver. When the Doxa Sub 200 C-Graph was introduced in 2020, it reintroduced a chronograph into their expansive regular production diver collection. It was (and still is) a three-register chronograph that attempted to keep some of the vintage charm with its faux-patina markers. In terms of its case...

Comments 4

  1. C. Almeida
    The framing here is frankly a bit off. A chronograph is hardly the most-engineered complication in Swiss watchmaking; that crown belongs to perpetual calendars and minute repeaters. That said, the automatic chronograph remains the most *accessible* complicated movement for volume producers, and that's a worthier claim. The 1969 reference is apt, though the real innovation happened years before.
    1. Ben W. replying to C. Almeida
      Fair correction on the engineering hierarchy. But I'd add: the "accessibility" angle gets muddied fast once you're actually trying to buy one. A Daytona or even a Tudor Chrono sits behind waitlists and AD games that make "accessible" feel like marketing speak. The movement's elegant, sure, but the secondary market lottery around these watches tells a different story about what buyers actually face.
  2. Reece
    thinking about getting my first chrono and this helped a lot. is a vintage automatic worth learning on or should i just grab something new first. also how much should i realistically spend.
    1. WristBuzz Team replying to Reece
      This all depends on your own feelings and what you like to spend. Pretty hard to answer imho.

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