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Chronograph Watches · Page 159

Our Predictions In The Tourbillon Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is Unanimously Two-Faced Quill & Pad
Oct 15, 2021

Our Predictions In The Tourbillon Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is Unanimously Two-Faced

What a diverse bunch of tourbillons in this Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève category: two of them are beautifully transparent, while one of them is combined with a chronograph. Yet another contains a constant-force device, while one example here can be flipped around. And, finally, the sixth is involved in a space war. Oh, to choose a winner!

Patek Philippe Introduces the Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905/1A SJX Watches
Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905/1A

A model often overshadowed by “hot” watches or more complicated ones, the ref. 5905 combines a pair of useful complications into an everyday dress watch, but it was previously available only in a conservative, luxe guise of precious metal case and classical dial colours. But now Patek Philippe is changing up the feel of the model with the Annual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5905/1A. Now cased in steel and matched with a three-link bracelet inspired by the Aquanaut, the ref. 5905/1A retains the sectored dial found on earlier versions of the model, but now in olive green – the same shade found on the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s opening act for the year was the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A with an olive-green dial (and with the option of a diamond-set bezel), an immediate hit that has become one of the most sought-after watches of 2021. The Nautilus was already hot, as all sports watches with integrated bracelets are, but bestowing the most fashionable colour of the year on the “final edition” of the Nautilus ref. 5711 escalated its desirability to the stratosphere. That bodes well for the ref. 5905/1A. The ref. 5905/1A will be instantly attractive since it caters to current tastes. Its inevitable desirability will overshadow its intrinsic qualities (and also the accessible price), which is a bit of a shame. While intriguing it is not, the ref. 5905/1A is a good-looking watch, and one executed in a practical material while offering usef...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R SJX Watches
Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R

A variant of a longstanding reference in the Patek Philippe catalogue, the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R-011 is only set apart by its slate-grey dial, but unusual nonetheless – it’s the sole model in Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications collection in that colour, where the predominant colours are silver, blue, black, and a splash of salmon. Initial thoughts Historically the split-seconds seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar in gold was often paired with a silver dial. But as the new World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P illustrates, Patek Philippe is continuing to add new colours into the regular catalogue, instead of reserving them for limited editions or special orders. The rose gold version of this reference is already available with a black dial as the ref. 5204/1R, but matched with a weighty and flashy rose gold bracelet. The new ref. 5204R in contrast is a relatively low key watch, which will appeal to anyone who wants a “Grand Complication” that’s, well, low key. The colour palette of the new ref. 5204R is a familiar because it works well. This makes the ref. 5204R the most appealing version of the model currently available; it is certainly more striking than the conservative model with a silver dial. That said, I do wish Patek had taken the opportunity to redesign the dial slightly, perhaps with slimmer hands and a moon phase display on the top of the lower register. As it is, the moon phase display leaves the dial bottom he...

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930P SJX Watches
Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930P

Patek Philippe just launched a trio of new chronographs, all variants of existing models. While the ref. 5905/1A in steel is the most affordable, the World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P-001 is surely the most striking with its emerald-green guilloche dial (which is a brighter shade than the olive green of the ref. 5905/1A or Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014). And despite a dial colour that’s novel for a world-time model, the ref. 5930P does hark back to historical world-time watches with its silver cities ring. Initial thoughts The ref. 5930P is only a different take on an existing model, but it’s certainly a vivid new look. Past versions of the ref. 5930 were either subdued (which was the original in blue) or too much (the Singapore edition in red). The ref. 5930P in emerald green appears striking but just right. A key point of appeal is the silver world-time ring that gives it a look that more closely resembles vintage world time watches, which is a good thing for anyone who appreciates historical Patek Philippe design. This contrasts with earlier versions of the ref. 5930, both of which had tone-on-tone world-time rings, making them less prominent. Notably, Patek Philippe historically utilised such bright colours only on limited editions, so the ref. 5930P is an unusual watch amongst the standard offerings. That said, with green being the most fashionable colour of the year, it goes without saying that the ref. 5930P will be mostly unavailable for the near future. Emerald g...

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean, robust and sporty-elegant GMT Time+Tide
Oct 14, 2021

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean, robust and sporty-elegant GMT

One of the most sought after complications by buyers is the GMT, a watch that can track two or more time zones on the wrist. With complication though can come cost, especially when we enter the realm of big-name luxury brands. But there are exceptions to the rule, and TAG Heuer has just proven this … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean, robust and sporty-elegant GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119 “Clous de Paris” SJX Watches
Oct 13, 2021

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119 “Clous de Paris”

Launched earlier this year, the Calatrava Ref. 6119 “Clous de Paris” is significant amongst Patek Philippe’s recent releases, despite being a simple, time-only watch. That’s because it’s powered by the all-new cal. 30-255 PS, a large, thin movement that is the new workhorse calibre for the brand’s entry-level, hand-wind watches. Visually, the ref. 6119 takes its cues from past Calatrava models, but the overall design is contemporary and elevated by details like the facetted hour markers and textured dial. But the crucial feature of the ref. 6119 remains the new movement inside. The cal. 30-255, with its large, twin barrels and Gyromax balance The historical context Named after the Patek Philippe emblem, the Calatrava was introduced in 1932, the same year the Stern family took over the watchmaker as it struggled amidst the Great Depression. The original Calatrava was the ref. 96, a handsome but minuscule watch just 31 mm in diameter. While the Calatrava family has multiplied and grown in diversity since its launch, the ref. 96 remains the definitive Calatrava design. Its widely-spaced lugs, baton markers, and dauphine hands are instantly recognisable together, despite being relatively generic in themselves. In fact, the ref. 96 was influential in defining Patek Philippe’s house style for decades; the ref. 130, for instance, was essentially a ref. 96 with a chronograph. A ref. 570 from 1943, essentially an enlarged ref. 96 One of the longest-lived references ...

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean and versatile traveller’s GMT Time+Tide
Oct 13, 2021

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean and versatile traveller’s GMT

Look… we all usually have smartphones at our disposal, but for watch collectors and enthusiasts there is something really neat about having a timepiece that can track two or more timezones. We’re now living in the most globalised society in history, connecting with people all around the world. This past year, we have all been … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean and versatile traveller’s GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands Collection delivers accessible style in a range of sizes Time+Tide
Oct 10, 2021

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands Collection delivers accessible style in a range of sizes

More than 60 years ago, Jack Heuer was inspired to create a timepiece with clean lines and proportions – a watch that leveraged a sense of modernity and purity. He wanted to create a harmonious chronograph watch that conveyed all the necessary information that drivers would love, but in an uncluttered manner that would allow … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands Collection delivers accessible style in a range of sizes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Vintage Patek Philippe – and One Special Day-Date – at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Oct 9, 2021

Highlights: Vintage Patek Philippe – and One Special Day-Date – at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

With Sotheby’s Hong Kong sale just around the corner, we’re rounding up a half-dozen notable vintage watches from the auction, primarily big-ticket Patek Philippe complications. Amongst them a few oddities, one a Patek Philippe ref. 3448 “Senza Luna”, a perpetual calendar with the moon phase omitted, and the other the Rolex Day-Date with a  “Submariner” dial. With the preview exhibition open daily from now till October 12, the auction will take place on October 13. The catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2265: Patek Philippe ref. 130 The oldest watch of the selection is a Patek Philippe ref. 130, the brand’s first serially-produced wristwatch chronograph that remained in the catalogue for over three decades. The model’s longevity makes it an inevitability that a good number of ref. 130 variants exist. Indeed, the model varies greatly in terms case material and dial design, with some combinations being rarer than others. One such rare combination is a steel case with “sector” dial, like the present example. Made by Wenger, the steel cases of the ref. 130 have shorter and wider-spaced lugs compared to the gold cases that made by Vichet, giving the 33 mm case a more imposing appearance Chronograph wristwatches from that era typically feature tiny counters that sit close to the edge of the dial, leaving the dial clean and distinctly vintage. But the “sector” dial here is an entirely different animal – the sect...

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): No Consensus Highlights The Strong Competition Quill & Pad
Oct 8, 2021

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): No Consensus Highlights The Strong Competition

Complication abounds in the 2021 GPHG Calendar and Astronomy category: two perpetual calendars – one of which is of world record-holding thinness – a complete calendar with chronograph, a clever day-date that you can’t help but smile at, a mind-blowingly beautiful moon phase watch, and the world’s smallest planetarium. And our panel members all (well, nearly all) have different favorites to win!

INTRODUCING: The Collective Horology x IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “C.03” Time+Tide
Oct 7, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Collective Horology x IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “C.03”

Two watch lovers, Gabe Reilly and Asher Rapkin, wanted to take the idea of a watch collectors’ club a step further, founding Collective Horology. The idea was to create a positive and intimate space for horological enthusiasts to come together and share their love for all things watchmaking. What separates Collective Horology from other clubs … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Collective Horology x IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “C.03” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Three Hands Collection refines its offering by going back to basics. Time+Tide
Oct 7, 2021

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Three Hands Collection refines its offering by going back to basics.

TAG Heuer looked to strip down their iconic Carrera to the essentials in the early 2000s to create a new entry-level proposition for the larger marketplace. The idea was to maintain the clean lines and aesthetic the collection built its name upon, but in a less complicated and more approachable fashion. Since its introduction decades … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Three Hands Collection refines its offering by going back to basics. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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