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Chronograph Watches · Page 206

Zenith Introduces the El Primero A386 “One-Off” in Platinum SJX Watches
Oct 1, 2019

Zenith Introduces the El Primero A386 “One-Off” in Platinum

With this year being the 50th anniversary of its defining movement, Zenith has unveiled several limited editions to mark the occasion, including a three-piece set and a remake of the El Primero A386 in 18k gold. Now the ultimate anniversary watch has just been announced: the one-of-a-kind El Primero A386 in platinum with a lapis lazuli dial, and a 50-year warranty. This one-off watch – it’s marked as such on the case back – was designed in collaboration with Phillips, the auctioneer led by Livia Russo and Aurel Bacs. And the watch will be sold by Phillips in November, with all proceeds going to a Swiss charity that helps children with cancer. It’s the first ever El Primero in platinum, and also the first with a lapis lazuli dial. Commenting in the announcement, Zenith chief executive Julien Tornare states unequivocally: “This will be the first and sole El Primero in platinum.” Materials aside, the rest of the watch is identical to the standard A386 remake. The case is 38mm, fitted with sapphire crystals front and back, while the movement is the El Primero 400. Key facts Diameter: 38mm Material: Platinum Water resistance: 50m Dial: Lapis lazuli Movement: El Primero 400 Functions: Time, chronograph, date Frequency: 36,000bph, or 5Hz Winding: Automatic Power reserve: 50 hours Strap: Blue calfskin Price and availability The Zenith El Primero A386 in platinum will be sold at the Geneva Watch Auction: X that takes place on November 9-10, 2019. It has n...

Looking back at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Time+Tide
Sep 29, 2019

Looking back at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph

Editor’s note: Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak is unquestionably one of the most important wristwatches of all time and it is steeped in history for so many reasons. For a start, the unique aesthetics of the now iconic watch and integrated bracelet were designed by the doyen of horological design, Gérald Genta, in less than 24 hours. … ContinuedThe post Looking back at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Singapore 2019 Ref. 5930G (With Price) SJX Watches
Sep 27, 2019

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Singapore 2019 Ref. 5930G (With Price)

To mark the Singapore Grand Exhibition, which is now into its second day, Patek Philippe has unveiled a special-edition World Time Chronograph ref. 5930G-011 for the Southeast Asian market. Limited to 300 pieces, the watch has a white gold case paired with a smoked, red guilloche dial that darkens towards the edges. It features a dark grey city disc, on which “Singapore” replaces “Beijing” for the time zone of GMT+8. The rest of the watch is identical to that of the standard version that was first unveiled in 2016 with a white gold case paired with a blue dial. It measures 39.5mm wide and 12.8mm in height, which is rather impressive considering it houses a full-rotor movement, with a vertical-clutch, column-wheel flyback chronograph as well as a world time module. A corrector pusher at 10 o’clock advances the cities disc, hour hand and 24-hour scale in one-hour increments. All that needs to be done is to set the city corresponding to the local time zone to the 12 o’clock position. The local time will be indicated by the hands while the time in all other time zones can be read off the 24-hour scale. The 30-minute counter for the chronograph is located at six o’clock, while the seconds scale for the chronograph is located between the cities and 24-hour discs. Visible through the sapphire case back, the CH 28-520 HU movement is based on the CH 28-520 chronograph caliber, controlled by a vertical clutch, with the addition of a world time module based on the co...

Best 5 watches for under $5K at the Sotheby’s Important Watches auction Time+Tide
Sep 26, 2019

Best 5 watches for under $5K at the Sotheby’s Important Watches auction

At the upcoming Sotheby’s Important Watches auction, you can browse the catalogue and find all manner of incredibly rare and important watches and clocks from all the best watchmakers in the world. There is everything you would expect, and more, including a possibly unique red dial Rolex Daytona, a factory gem-set yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master, … ContinuedThe post Best 5 watches for under $5K at the Sotheby’s Important Watches auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Marine Torpilleur Monaco Yacht Show SJX Watches
Sep 26, 2019

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Marine Torpilleur Monaco Yacht Show

First introduced two years ago as an entry-level model styled on vintage marine chronometers, the Marine Torpilleur has just received an upgrade. The Marine Torpilleur Monaco Yacht Show is a limited edition fitted with a grand feu enamel dial, created to mark the watchmaker’s sponsorship, now in its 11th year, of the annual yachting event in Monte Carlo harbour. While the standard model has a brass dial, the Monaco edition has a three-part dial made of vitreous enamel that’s fired in an oven – a desirable feature that increases its retail price by a modest 20% or so. Like all of Ulysse Nardin’s enamel dials, it is produced by Donze Cadran, a subsidiary of the watchmaker that’s one of the few dial makers in Switzerland able to make fired enamel dials in substantial numbers. An old school dial The dial starts out as a copper disc that is covered with white enamel powder that’s then baked in a small oven, several dials at a go, to melt the enamel and fuse it to the dial. The dial has two apertures for each of the sub-dials, which are separate pieces that are covered in grey enamel and fired separately. After they are fired, the dials are printed with enamel markings, resulting in another trip to the oven to set the markings. Then the apertures on the main dial, as well as the edges of the sub-dials, are filed by hand to ensure a perfect fit with each other. Once complete, the sub-dials are soldered to the main dial. The dial is marked “09.19” – the m...

Alpina Introduces the Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph SJX Watches
Sep 26, 2019

Alpina Introduces the Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph

Having created a number of appealing and accessibly priced “tool” watches over the years including the Seastrong Diver Heritage and the KM-710, Alpina now unveils the Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph, powered by a single-button chronograph movement supplied by its sister company, La Joux-Perret. The Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph is the second mechanical chronograph in the Alpina catalogue; the first was the Alpiner 4 Manufacture Flyback, which had a Valjoux 7750, likewise modified by La Joux-Perret to include a flyback function. The brand Alpina was actually founded over 130 years ago but fell victim to the quartz crisis in the 1970s. Then in 2002, it was acquired by Frederique Constant, which was itself then acquired by Citizen of Japan in 2016. Now, like its sister company Frederique Constant, it specialises in accessibly priced watches, made possible in part by the movement making expertise of La Joux-Perret. As with most Alpina watches, the Startimer Pilot Heritage chronograph combines retro design with modern dimensions and build. Its styling is recognisably 1970s, and evokes the experimental spirit of the era without being overtly flashy or eccentric. Measuring 42mm by 40.7mm, the Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph features a cushion case with the chronograph pusher located at two o’clock. Like all cushion-cased watches of the 1970s, it has a radially brushed top surface and case band that are separated by a wide polished bevel, which enha...

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 1999-2009 Limited Edition Time+Tide
Sep 25, 2019

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 1999-2009 Limited Edition

TAG Heuer has unveiled its penultimate limited edition 50th anniversary Monaco, and this one pays homage to the wonderful era that was the noughties. This is the fourth iteration of the limited-run watches, which are celebrating 50 years of the fabled original Heuer Monaco, first released in 1969. We’ve already seen the eclectic mix of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 1999-2009 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Mysterious Rolex Daytona Zenith “Luna Rossa” at Sotheby’s SJX Watches
Sep 23, 2019

The Mysterious Rolex Daytona Zenith “Luna Rossa” at Sotheby’s

The most talked-about watch at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong is lot 2300, a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona powered by a Zenith El Primero movement that’s described as “a possibly unique… chronograph wristwatch with a red dial”. And as with all high-profile watches, the auctioneers have given the watch an Italian nickname, “Luna Rossa”, which translates as “red moon”. The reason the “Luna Rossa” is controversial is because such a red dial has never ever been seen before. Usually unicorns are known and whispered about, even if seldom seen, but the “Luna Rossa” has surprised everyone. Experts and insiders I approached have neither encountered nor heard of such a dial, which makes it quite a revelation. But they all agree it is correct – in the sense that all elements are identical to known Rolex dials of the period – though of unknown origin. Sotheby’s itself hasn’t provided much background about the watch, either officially or unofficially. Unlike the unique platinum Daytona “Zenith” that Sotheby’s sold last year, setting a record price for a modern Daytona, which had a backstory that was I managed to uncover, the “Luna Rossa” remains a mystery. The dial is glossy red lacquer, with gold indices and sub-dials When such unusual dials emerge, the immediate question is one of authenticity. The “Luna Rossa” passes the test – the dial is correct in its details. The element usually regarded as crucia...

4 stealth watches to help you fly under the radar Time+Tide
Sep 22, 2019

4 stealth watches to help you fly under the radar

The very utterance of the words “must have” when talking about the ideal watch collection will almost always lead to, at the very least, enthusiastic speculation and, more often than not, heated debate. The Omega Speedmaster, for example, is forever being bandied about as THE watch to have in any discerning collection, and the Rolex … ContinuedThe post 4 stealth watches to help you fly under the radar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen SJX Watches
Sep 21, 2019

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen

As complications go, the RM 50 is the ultimate Richard Mille, combining a tourbillon and split-seconds chronograph. Descended from the RM008 of 2003, one of the brand’s foundational models, the top of the line complication now has now been dressed up in new livery for Finnish Formula 1 driver Kimi Räikkönen, who drives for the Alfa Romeo Racing Team. Launched at the start of the 2019 Singapore Grand Prix, the RM 50-04 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph Kimi Räikkönen is large, lightweight, and complex, and dressed in a red, white and black colour combination that’s the same as the livery on the Alfa Romeo C38 Formula 1 car. Kimi Räikkönen Though it’s a mass of details and colours, the dial is actually easily to decipher. The two chronograph sub-dials are the six and nine o’clock. The fan-shaped indicator at 11 o’clock is the power reserve, and its mirror image to the right is the torque indicator. This indicates the level of wind in the mainspring, with the ideal being between 53Nmm and 65Nmm; “Nmm” is short for Newton millimetre. And at three o’clock is the power reserve display. Made of various lightweight carbon composites, the watch case is generously sized, like other top of the line Richard Mille complications – 44.5mm in diameter and 16.1mm high. The front and back plates are white Quartz TPT, while the middle is Carbon TPT. Both composites are made by North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT), a Swiss lightweight composite specialist that’s...

Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Review WatchAdvice
Sep 19, 2019

Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Review

Late 2018 saw Breitling update their range with the release of new models. The arrival of Georges Kern as the CEO of Breitling gave the brand a revived outlook. He is focusing on meeting the expectations of the brand’s two primary consumers. The customers who prefer masculine and technology inspired watches and customers that prefer Breitling’s extended history and their vintage designs. The Breitling Premier collection released in 2018 as part of Georges Kern’s product portfolio falls into the revamped vintage category. The outcome is that the brand delivers timepieces that combine purpose, style, quality while keeping to a timeless design.  As quoted by Georges Kern, the Premier Collection is “the first modern Breitling collection dedicated to everyday elegance. With outstanding quality and performance, these watches bear our unmistakable brand DNA, but has been created with a focus on style that beautifully complements their purpose“.  The Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 is certainly a watch that stands true to this statement. The Premier B01 Chronograph 42 is a modern take on the vintage piece released initially in the 1940’s; the Breitling Premier Chronograph reference 790. Back when the Breitling Premier Chronograph reference 790 was released, several countries worldwide were involved in World War II. During this period in history, people would look to the golden age of cinema and other forms of entertainment to escape from the realities of World ...

MY WEEK WITH: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph, and how I got completely turned around to loving it Time+Tide
Sep 18, 2019

MY WEEK WITH: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph, and how I got completely turned around to loving it

When it came up that a review of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato was on the editorial agenda, Felix cocked an eyebrow and said, “Are you going to write about your reaction when you first saw it?” Yes, I thought, when the time comes, I will. So here we are. The day that I first laid eyes … ContinuedThe post MY WEEK WITH: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph, and how I got completely turned around to loving it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s epic Spring Drive Chronograph – the SBGC203 Time+Tide
Sep 17, 2019

VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s epic Spring Drive Chronograph – the SBGC203

In general, Grand Seiko has a reputation for being somewhat stealthy on the wrist - but, to be honest, that’s not the case with this chunk of finely crafted steel, better known as the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC203.  At a sizeable 43.5mm across by 16.1mm tall, this isn’t the sort of watch that … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Grand Seiko’s epic Spring Drive Chronograph – the SBGC203 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.