Chronograph Watches · Page 23

Year in Review: the Best “Money No Object” Watches of 2025

I’m long on record saying the mark of a genuine enthusiast is being able to get just as excited about a $100 Timex or G-Shock as about a $100,000 Rolex or Patek. I still think there’s something to that. Still, I also recognize that summing it up so patly, though convenient, ignores a huge amount of the nuance that undeniably exists in the watch space. It also ignores some of the fundamental impacts of price, including, crucially, attainability. After all, there are very few enthusiast pursuits (or, really, pursuits of any kind) where price and pursuit can be wholly siloed, and watches are not some rare example where we can afford to be price agnostic - at least, not most of us. Still, once in a while, it can be fun to just say screw it and enjoy watches for what they can be at their most extreme. Which brings us to the topic of today’s 2025 round-up, “F**k You Money” watches. The concept of a “F**k You Money” watch can be a bit nebulous. Unlike dive watches or chronographs, say, which either are or are not what they say they are, there’s no real set definition for what qualifies as “F**k You Money,” but like Supreme Court Justice Potter Stewart and pornography, I may not be able to specifically articulate what qualifies as a F**k You Money watch, but I know it when I see it. gérald genta Geneva Minute Repeater You thought I was gonna start with some crazy Richard Mille or Jacob & Co., didn’t you? Well, this probably isn’t going to be that kind of...

Recap – The Best Chronograph Watches of 2025

More a complication than a category or style of watch per se, the chronograph still ranks high in brands’ portfolios. As the end of the year is fast approaching, it’s time for the MONOCHROME team to elect its favourite watches of 2025, and that includes the best chronographs we’ve seen over the year. Plenty of […]

Hands-On: The Patek Philippe 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph, And A Look Back At The Last Ten Years Of High-End Watch Collecting

This watch is lush. And important. Does the arc of the 5370 stand as the archetype of what has happened to high-end watchmaking in the last decade?

In-Depth: Collecting The Rolex Daytona Oyster Paul Newman Panda Dial

A data-driven deep dive into the most collectible Rolex ever made.

Best of 2025: Complications

After a slow year for complications last year, big brands showed up in force in 2025. Spurred by a number of major anniversaries celebrated by the likes of Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet, the year witnessed a range of record-setting and never-before-seen complications. The breadth and ambition of new complicated watches, some from unexpected corners, proved to be one of the defining themes of the year. Within this crowded field, a few stood out. Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – Brandon Moore For collectors who keep a close eye on the record books, the year ended almost as soon as it began. At Watches & Wonders 2025, Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première, a unique wristwatch that immediately became one of the most talked-about watches of the fair. The buzz was justified: the Solaria is the most complicated wristwatch ever made. Developed over eight years, the Solaria leverages 13 patents to bring together 41 complications across two dials. While the headline figure is the sheer number of functions, the Solaria’s true distinction lies in its astronomical indications. Four of its rare complications track the apparent path of the Sun, displaying its position, height, culmination, and declination – as observed from a specific location on Earth. Turning the watch over reveals another first: a celestial object tracker linked to a split-seconds chronograph. Twin rotating sapphire disc...

Seiko SSC813 Speedtimer Review: The Best Chronograph Under $1,000?

Seiko has a well known and understood design language that is expansive in nature. It’s a style that feels just as at home on a humble skin diver as it does in the context of a field watch or chronograph. It always feels comfortable, but never derivative. Like a perfectly well worn-in pair of jeans that you keep coming back to. The Speedtimer name is a perfect example of this originality since it was first used by the brand in 1969, and it largely remains so today. The modern Speedtimer SSC813 within the Prospex collection is not entirely reliant on that history, rather, it presents a contemporary vision of a Seiko chronograph at its most accessible.  [toc-section heading="Seiko And Chronographs"] Seiko plays an important role in the history of the chronograph as we experience it today. The Japanese brand’s mechanical timers of the mid ‘60s showed off a modern vision for a highly focused design that would open the door for a new generation of watches. These designs did not use a host of subdials, but rather a single timing hand and a single pusher. This is a focus that would be retained until 1969, when Seiko introduced the reference 6139, one of three automatic chronographs to be revealed that year that would shape the genre for the coming decades. Unlike the other two, the Seiko used just a single subdial which would totalize up to 30 minutes. The 6139 would have a cultural impact just as big as its horological impact, appearing in films and, in the case of the so...

Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 4 By Habring²

Our friends over at Monochrome and Habring² are building quite a history together. Their first collaboration, in 2021, celebrated Monochrome’s 15th anniversary. The online watch magazine and the Austrian watchmaking couple teamed up once more in 2023. Their sophomore release, a split-seconds chronograph, raised money for charity. Today, we get a third collaboration in the […] Visit Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 4 By Habring² to read the full article.

In the shop – The MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 4 Seconde Morte

For our fourth MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription, we are teaming up once again with independent Austrian watchmaker Habring², a brand dear to our hearts with whom we created our first MdS watch. Following the instant success of the Montre de Souscription 1, a monopusher chronograph with a salmon 1940s-inspired sector dial, we’re staying true to our passion […]

First Look – The Fortis Stratoliner S-41 Blasts Off in New Colours

With companies like Elon Musk’s SpaceX and Jeff Bezos’ Blue Origin, space tourism is no longer the stuff of sci-fi novels. While Omega’s Speedmaster Moonwatch has dominated the space story, others, like Fortis, have produced robust tool watches for astronauts, cosmonauts and “novonauts” alike. Boasting space-tested calibres, Fortis releases a fresh batch of four Stratoliner […]

Omega Speedmaster MK40 Review: A Colorful Cult Classic

When you think of the Omega Speedmaster, the first thing that comes to mind is likely the brand’s golden child, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional. It’s a modern grail with its NASA connection, and its intertwined history with the Moon landing and space exploration is its calling card. But today, we’re looking at a different Speedmaster that has been eschewed from Omega’s current lineup. One that’s a little more playful, a little more unconventional, than the brand’s well-established Moonwatch Professional formula: the Speedmaster Mk40. Down below, I’ll be breaking down the history, context, and all the aesthetic oddities of the watch, all of which work together to create one of the most compelling non-Moonwatch Speedmasters of all time, in my humble opinion.  [toc-section heading="Some Speedmaster Context"]  Image: S.Song From first glance, the Speedmaster Mk40 that made its debut in the ‘90s defies all the utilitarian, tool-watch-oriented austerity that is the key DNA of the Moonwatch Professional, from its functionality to its experimentation with color, shapes, and typography. But the Mk40 is part of a short-lived and often forgotten legacy of Omega’s experimentation with the Speedmaster formula, before things were so rigidly codified as they are today. It is also important to note that the moniker “Mk40” itself is a completely enthusiast-driven nickname, which Omega itself has never officially used (the brand denotes the different models wi...

Hands-On: The TAG Heuer x Fragment Design Glassbox Carrera Is A Masterclass In Collaboration

Hiroshi Fujiwara's classic spin on the iconic model's most recent redesign is a match made in heaven (or Harajuku, really).

Fratello’s Omega Speedmaster Guide

Are you looking to buy an Omega Speedmaster but don’t know where to start? We’re here to help! Over the past 65+ years, Omega has created many variations of one of the world’s most famous chronographs. The classic 42mm Moonwatch has been in the collection since 1965, and to the novice eye, little has changed […] Visit Fratello’s Omega Speedmaster Guide to read the full article.

Announcing – The MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 4, Launching 18 December 2025

We’re thrilled to announce the upcoming launch of our next Montre de Souscription. Following the release of the Montre de Souscription 1, a salmon-toned, sector dial chronograph based on the Habring² Chrono-Felix, the Montre de Souscription 2, a MONOCHROME white interpretation of the Czapek Antarctique, and the Montre de Souscription 3, a discreet and traditional […]

A fight for pole: the best limited edition TAG Heuer Carrera models

Now that the brand has evolved significantly over the last 60 years, let’s take a look at some of the best TAG Heuer Carrera limited editions.The post A fight for pole: the best limited edition TAG Heuer Carrera models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-on – The Sleek TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Fragment Limited Edition

TAG Heuer‘s relationship with Hiroshi Fujiwara, founder of Fragment Design and a pioneer of Tokyo street culture, has become one of the most stylistically consistent collaborations in contemporary watchmaking. Their first joint venture in 2018 distilled the vintage Carrera into its purest form; the second, in 2020, reinterpreted the 1970s Autavia through a graphic, bolder […]

Introducing – New Dials for Lebois & Co, with the Heritage Chronograph Linéaire

Founded in 1934 by Raymond Dodane, Lebois & Co. built its reputation during the golden age of mechanical watchmaking, crafting elegant, precision-driven chronographs. After decades of dormancy, the brand was revived in 2016 by a Dutchman, Tom van Wijlick, with a clear mission: to honour its heritage through nicely executed timepieces inspired by its vintage […]

Albishorn’s Type 10 Officer Takes Flight

The Albishorn Type 10 Officer is the latest expression of the brand’s “imaginary vintage” philosophy, reworking the familiar codes of the mid-century military chronograph through the lens of a hypothetical Type 20 predecessor. Conceived by founder Dr Sébastien Chaulmontet, the cream-dialled Officer pairs its distinctive, parchment-like textured dial with a proprietary monopusher movement derived from a re-engineered Valjoux 7750 architecture, combining COSC-certified performance with thoughtful ergonomic and aesthetic refinements at a price that undercuts many conventional aviation-inspired chronographs. Initial thoughts Military aviation-inspired watches are a cornerstone of the luxury watch market, but most pay homage to specific historical references like the famed Type 20 of the 1950s. In contrast, the Albishorn Type 10 proposes to ‘recreate’ a hypothetical Type 20 predecessor. The cream-dialled Officer takes this idea further, suggesting a “missing link” is the aesthetic development of the military chronograph, with a lighter-coloured dial for open-air usage away from the front lines. When the Type 10 debuted with black and green dials, I was a bit skeptical of the texture, which reminded me of asphalt. The Officer’s dial features a similar texture, but the off-white colour transforms the look. To my eye, the new dial looks like vintage German etching paper, which is an appealing texture that suits the theme of the watch. Inside, the Officer is as com...

Hands-On With The Stunning Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Arctic Rose

Parmigiani Fleurier is a remarkable player in today’s horological landscape. The brand’s design aesthetic is unique, with the clever use of color being particularly admirable, and the technological innovations are nothing short of impressive. These aspects have made Parmigiani Fleurier both easy to love and easy to reject. Let’s be honest; it’s certainly not a […] Visit Hands-On With The Stunning Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Arctic Rose to read the full article.

Seiko’s Legendary Chronograph Under $1,000 Reimagined

The iconic Seiko "Pogue" Speedtimer has a cult following among enthusiasts, and many were excited to see Seiko reach back into their archives with the modern version in the SSC947. See how Seiko used their heritage to inform the contemporary Speedtimer in this review.

Introducing the William Wood Vintage Triumph

While there are many watches inspired by military, naval, or overlanding missions, there are surprisingly few in tribute to firefighting, despite the profession’s propensity for gear and danger. Sure, Sinn makes timepieces in their EZM line for German firefighters to wear into burning buildings, but they’re more utilitarian than conceptual; tool watches rather than tributes. Enter William Wood, a British watchmaker founded by Jonny Garret and named after his late grandfather, who was a decorated firefighter. All of the brand’s pieces are made from upcycled firefighting materials, with portions of the proceeds from each collection benefitting firefighting charities globally. With their newest-and perhaps most eccentric-timepiece, the Vintage Triumph, William Wood continues that legacy. The Vintage Triumph capitalizes on the brawn of the profession it’s inspired by, with a beefy 41mm case diameter. The case itself is gold-plated with both brushed and polished finishes and promises 100 meters of water resistance, should the wearer ever trade fire for its natural opponent. The diamond-cut dial wears a celebratory shade of aged champagne, which is paired with polished gold numerals and a gold bezel with black markers, creating a rather exclamatory visual profile, furthered by the date window at the 6 o’clock position, and the subdials (inspired by fire engine pump gauges) at 3 and 9. Underneath it all is a Sellita SW510 Chronograph movement, which promises a 48-ho...

First Look – Albishorn Launches the Type 10 Officer Chronograph, now with Cream Dial

Albishorn is a young brand with a rather peculiar concept. Created by Sebastien Chaulmontet, ex-La Joux-Perret, in charge of the revival of Arnold & Son and Angelus, and now serving as the Head of Innovation and Marketing at Sellita Watch Co SA and Manufacture AMT, the brand launched with a rather cool idea: imaginary vintage. […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Chronograph Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Zenith, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we continue the series highlighting our favorite watches of 2025. It’s time for our favorite chronographs. Whereas last week’s list of GMT watches wasn’t easy to compile due to a lack of spectacular options, we were not left wanting this week. If anything, 2025 has given us an abundance […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Chronograph Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Zenith, And More to read the full article.

The Revolutionary List: 24 Technically Brilliant Watches – Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Chronograph Moon

Albishorn Introduces their Latest “Imaginary Vintage” Type 10

Albishorn is a brand based on one of the most tantalizing concepts that we’ve come across: vintage watches that never existed. I’ve thought about this conceit quite a bit since the brand was launched a few years ago. In some ways, it’s not so different on the surface from any other “vintage inspired” watch. The vast majority of them, after all, never existed. The Black Bay, for instance, takes inspiration from a great many vintage Tudor and Rolex watches, but it’s not a one to one recreation of anything – it never actually existed. But Albishorn is different. They place their watches in an imagined reality. Each one is its own “sliding doors” moment brought to life in watch form – a thought experiment about how things might be if they had turned out just a little differently.  The Type 10 is pitched as an imaginary ancestry to the Type 20, a very real watch that just about everyone reading this will be at least somewhat familiar with. Imagining a predecessor to the Type 20 also means imagining the infrastructure to create it, the timeline on which it would have been made, and even design details that might have been improved or altered in the later (and real) watch.  Today, Albishorn releases a new variant of the Type 10, which they’re calling the Type 10 Officer. Like previous Type 10s, this is a monopusher chronograph designed in the language of military issued watches. This one has a white dial, which the brand explains makes more sense for an Of...