Fratello
Until now, I’ve had to enjoy Ming’s 20.01 chronographs from afar. Finally, the good folks from the independent brand were able to send one of the flagship pieces to me for a hands-on review. I spent a week with the new 20.01 Series 5 and fell in love with this highly detailed, stunning watch. I’m […] Visit Hands-On With The New Ming 20.01 Series 5 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
As we’ve discussed at length here recently, one of our favorite things about Ming is their ability to innovate across price points. Recent watches in the 37 series, like the Minimalist and Ghost, prove that thoughtful contemporary design and creative watchmaking and engineering do not have to approach five figures. But then, when the brand does cross that five figure mark, and creates something in the haute horlogery realm, we get things that are incredibly special and can kind of break your brain, making you wonder both how they did it and what is this anyway? That’s very much the vibe of last year’s solid gold 20.01 Series 3, which featured a fused borosilicate dial with 600 tiny holes cut into it that were then filled with lume (all on top of an AgenGraphe chronograph movement, naturally). At the time, I thought that watch was Ming’s most avant-garde creation, but the latest watch in the 20.01 Series might just top it. The centerpiece of the new 20.01 Series 5 is a science-fiction inspired dial that is laser milled from a single block of titanium. I was fortunate to be able to spend some time with this watch ahead of its release, and even though I had my chance to gaze at the dial, look at it under magnification, and consider it in all the ways we always evaluate something like this, I still have a hard time actually describing it. It is, effectively, a decorative sheet of titanium that has been cut to form a complex radial pattern emanating from the dial’s ce...
WatchAdvice
The Hublot Aerofusion Titanium Chronograph isn’t your normal sports watch. It’s unapologetically bold, has striking wrist presence and ultimately, fun! What We Love The skeletonised dial looks great The look of the polished titanium gives it a lot of wrist presence Has the DNA of the original Classic Fusion Original, which is the essence of Hublot What We Don’t The clasp design could worry some wrists 45mm will be large for some The power reserve is on the smaller side compared to others on the market today Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 It doesn’t get too much more Hublot than the Classic Fusion collection, well, at least from a brand DNA perspective. The Classic Fusion is really where it all kicked off for the brand back in 1980 when Carlo Crocco had the crazy idea of putting rubber and precious metal together on a sports watch. Although it wasn’t called the Classic Fusion back then, that came later under the leadership of Jean Claude-Biver. The design was also something new and daring. Hublot is French for “Porthole” as as such, the design mimiced this with the bezel design and “H” shaped screws that are found on the case. From those beginnings back in 1980, the brand has grown immensely to what we know today. Hublot is a brand that is not afraid of breaking convention, going against the norm, and really just doing it their way! Over the years, Hublot has evolved substantially an...
Teddy Baldassarre
Admit it, you’re here because you googled “Most Expensive Rolex Watches” in the hopes of gathering up some horological bar trivia, right? No? You say you’re here because you really, truly are interested in buying one of the most expensive watches Rolex currently puts out? Well, good news. We’ve updated this article to incorporate both. Photo: Sotheby's Founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, Rolex is today the most globally recognized Swiss luxury watch brand, one of the leading innovators in the watch industry from the 20th Century to today, and the maker of some of the most popular and coveted watch models in the world, from gents’ classics like the Datejust and Day-Date to sport-luxury icons like the Submariner, Daytona, and GMT-Master. As one might expect with such a horological pedigree, Rolex watches have also become some of the most valuable watches on the secondary and auction markets, with the most elite and exclusive pieces selling for $1 million or more. (Disclaimer: obviously, for the most avid and well-connected Rolex customers, it is the legendary “off-catalog” models - like the "Rainbow Daytona" pictured above - that both project the most mythical aura of exclusivity and command the most stratospheric prices. The problem with accurately reporting on which of them is really the “Most Expensive” is built into their rarity: such models change hands without an actual MSRP ever being declared publicly, and whatever that original purchase pric...
Teddy Baldassarre
And we’re back again with another episode of Affordable Alternatives to some of the most iconic watches in the game. While in previous installments, I’ve focused on watches with prices in the ridiculous range, today, I’m gunning for something a bit lower on the cost-of-entry scale, but which is nonetheless an icon of watchmaking: the Omega Speedmaster. For Omega Speedmaster alternatives, I’m going to go the route of exploring some tricompax chronograph options that are on the extremely affordable range, highlighting some smaller, more independent brands, and also featuring some watches that have some tie-in to lunar or space exploration, given the Speedmaster’s connection to all six moon landings. As I’ve established in previous articles, some of my choices for this roundup will fall into the spot-on category, while other, quirky picks will require a little stretch of the imagination, but I will try my best to make each case. Omega Speedmaster History As always, it’s important to go over a little history primer of the icon before we get into some affordable alternatives. To get into the history of the Omega Speedmaster on a more in-depth, granular level, I will refer you now to this article we’ve previously published. The story of Omega’s Speedmaster begins in 1957, several years before it became forever nicknamed the Moonwatch. In the years before the race to the moon was underway, Omega was churning out tool watches geared towards specific occupations...
Hodinkee
This is what the Breguet Type XX should have been all along.
SJX Watches
Les Cabinotiers is Vacheron Constantin’s programme dedicated to one-off and special-order watches. The latest to emerge from the workshop is the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface, a large, complicated watch with an intricate calibre and an unusually modern, clear sapphire dial. The look is more contemporary than usual for a Les Cabinotiers grand complication, thanks to both the sapphire dial with its off-centre displays and a monochromatic grey finish on the movement. An evolution (and stylistic upgrade) of the solid-dial Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds from 2022, the Temporis is underpinned by a base movement that features a minute repeater and tourbillon; on top sits a traditionally constructed split-seconds chronograph mechanism that is paired with the calibre in an unconventional manner. The layers inside the cal. 2757 S of the Temporis Initial thoughts Twenty twenty-five has been good for Vacheron Constantin in terms of complicated watches – the brand started the year with the Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch ever made, and has followed up with the Temporis. In comparison to the Solaria with 41 functions and a price tag in the mid-millions, the Temporis is simple and affordable, but still impressive. Though it is largely identical in terms of the movement to the 2022 model with a solid dial, the Temporis offers a lot more visually with its open dial. Though the look is modern – compare this to the baroque B...
Time+Tide
Coinciding with the 109th running of the Indy 500, TAG Heuer unveiled a trio of Monaco Chronograph watches.The post New TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph x Gulf & Stopwatch at the Indy 500 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Since the 1960s, the Yema Yachtingraf has always been a charming and colorful chronograph, especially with its regatta-style “big-eye” countdown sub-dial. If I told you the new version features a black dial, that might even sound a bit boring if you already know the white-turquoise-yellow and blue-red-white versions that are already available. However, did I […] Visit The Streetworthy Yema × Seconde/Seconde/ Yachtingraff Is Coming To A Port Near You to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Breitling has updated their SuperOcean Heritage Collection, and with a range of seemingly small but big changes, we’ve taken the time-only models and put them to the test! What We Love The case refinements across the range The small nods to the vintage 1957 model The new in-house B31 Calibre What We Don’t The overlapping of the rubber strap under the wrist Fewer choices when it comes to the colour combinations in rose gold The domed crystal can reflect the light on the darker dials a little Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Earlier this month, Breitling released the new look SuperOcean Heritage Collection with a suite of changes that, while looking like small incremental changes, all added up to noticeable differences across the entire range. We had a first look at these upon release, and were fortunate enough to get our hands on them for some time prior, so the whole team was able to see the changes themselves in person, and what they meant for the wearer of the new models. Sam and I flipped a coin to see who would review the time only and who would review the new chronographs. This was a coin toss with no loser, as each was a good a choice as any, and I scored the time only. So stay tuned for Sam’s review of the Chronograph in a few weeks time. Breitling’s New SuperOcean Heritage Collection Kicks Up A Swell! Initial Thoughts I’ve always said, press photos and renders don’t always do the wat...
Fratello
The Polaris Chronograph is available with a black or blue lacquered sunray dial and a three-piece blue and gray dial. Now, Jaeger-LeCoultre launches a new Polaris Chronograph with a dial in ocean gray. What? Another gray dial? Isn’t that a typo? Shouldn’t that be “ocean green”? Nope. The brand from Le Sentier might already have […] Visit Introducing: Jaeger-LeCoultre Launches A New Polaris Chronograph With An Ocean-Gray Lacquered Dial to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It’s no secret that the visuals of a watch are often why collectors pull the trigger on adding yet another piece to their collection. It could be a specific color, the inclusion of a certain desirable bezel insert, the symmetry of a double register chronograph, or many other aesthetic reasons. This isn’t to say that the movement and build quality are not also a part of this decision-making process, but one of the chief reasons many of us love to collect is for the joy we feel putting one on wrist, potentially matching it with an outfit, and gawking at it throughout our busy days. What I wish to do here is move away from this mindset and instead appreciate how mechanical ingenuity can produce the same amount of excitement and allure. This Lanco Alarm watch may seem relatively lackluster at first glance. A simplistic silver case and dial with very few flashy or notable design choices, it could be easily mistaken for dozens of watches and brands who sold timepieces in the 1960s and 70s. Its most interesting characteristic is perhaps what’s most unremarkable on any other vintage dress piece: the use of a single crown. By the 1960s, brands like Vulcain, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Poljot, Girard-Perregaux, Citizen, Bulova, and Helbros had released their own alarm watches, many of which utilized movements made by outside movement manufactures like A. Schild and Venus. The common denominator between these models and movements was the two crown layout: one typically adjusted and wou...
Time+Tide
A splash of blue there, a dash of movement customisation here...The post Laco brings a contemporary splash of Blau to the Kiel.2 flieger chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First released in 2018, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection was designed to reintroduce a sports range alongside the brand’s classical Reverso and Master lineups. Deeply inspired by the 1968 Memovox Polaris dive watch with its alarm mechanism, there was more to the collection than just this complication, as the brand also released some pretty attractive chronographs. […]
Time+Tide
Textures, shadows, and many layers of lacquer. The post Jaeger-LeCoultre brings its hot Ocean Grey dial to the Polaris Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
My Speedmaster “Ed White,” 10 years older than my car, made the trip almost untouched. I can’t say the same about my Land Rover, which left me behind three times due to fuel-delivery issues. Otherwise, it was one beautiful trip full of dust, off-the-grid gravel roads, majestic views, jokes on walkie-talkies, dreaming in the forest, […] Visit Retrospective: Lost In Bosnia With A Land Rover And An Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Montblanc flexes its Minerva movement muscle with a rich red rattrapante chronograph.The post Montblanc’s new limited edition 1858 Split Second Chronograph dresses in red as a homage to its Minerva roots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Eska may not be a well-known brand, but this revived Swiss watchmaker is gaining attention among enthusiasts. Initially founded in 1918 by Silvan Kocher (whose initials inspired the brand’s name), Eska built a reputation in the mid-20th century before succumbing to the Quartz Crisis in the 1980s. Reborn under the direction of Christophe Chevreton and […]
Monochrome
Founded in 2016 by Sébastien Muller, Brellum has consolidated a portfolio of well-built chronographs with a slightly vintage aura powered by chronometer-certified movements. With a limited production of around 299 watches a year, Brellum’s policy of direct sales allows the brand to keep its prices in check. The Pandial collection highlighted its racetrack credentials with […]
The post Photo Report: 60 Years of the Speedmaster and Spaceflight appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
If you’ve been paying attention to Tudor over the last few years, you know that a key component of their release strategy has been to drop unexpected dial colors into catalog staples at seemingly random intervals throughout the year. We’ve seen this play out with the Black Bay Chronograph multiple times, with pink and blue editions released unexpectedly and quickly allocated to collectors. Today, Tudor is trying something similar with the Black Bay 54, their most compact version of the Black Bay dive watch. The new Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” is more than just a dial variant, as it represents the first expansion of the Black Bay 54 line since it was introduced two years ago with a straightforward black dial. The first follow up after a hit watch is always an interesting bit of trivia for those of us who consider ourselves watch nerds. This release echos the blue dialed version of the Black Bay 58, which was perhaps even more of a sensation than the original when it saw a surprise release in the early days of the pandemic. Until this ywar’s Watches & Wonders, when a red 58 was launched, those two references somewhat surprisingly made up the entire Black Bay 58 collection. Time will tell if Tudor is quicker to produce new variants of the 54, but this version exists as a nice counterpoint to the debut. The “Lagoon Blue” dial has a light, almost turquoise-like tone, along with the familiar Snowflake handset and lume filled hour markers. The dial has what Tudor des...
Fratello
We’re back with the latest release from Brellum. The new Pandial Marina Tricompax Chronometer LE is a nautically inspired chronograph available in two case materials. Brellum may be a small brand, but buyers can expect a finely finished watch with a flourish of details. Plus, the customer service experience is unique and often includes founder […] Visit Introducing: The Brellum Pandial Marina Tricompax Chronometer LE to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
For the first time since 2017, Breitling is refreshing their Superocean Heritage collection. This line has always been something of an under the radar gem. Breitling of course is known for their pilot and aviation themed watches, which run a wide gamut between classical (the Navitimer) and tech-forward contemporary (all of the ana-digi releases through the years). Divers (or “sea watches” as they’re referred to in the latest press materials) seem a little outside the brand’s wheelhouse at first blush, but of course as an historic maker of tool watches, it makes sense to dip into this ultra competitive genre. The Superocean Heritage has always felt like one of the more tasteful vintage inspired sports watch lines, and while they aren’t discussed as frequently as something like the Black Bay family of watches, the collection has always had its fans and the watches themselves are undeniably refined and capture exactly the vibe they intend to. This is a full refresh that seems to be focused squarely on variety and appealing to a broad segment of the “sea watch” market. The new Superocean Heritage models come in a total of four sizes: 44mm, 42mm, 40mm, and 36mm. In addition, there’s a Superocean Heritage Chronograph that comes in at 42mm. The 40mm+ three-handers all use the still new B31 caliber, Breitling’s first exclusive three-hand manufacture caliber. Dials across the collection can be had in black, blue, and green. All feature color matched ceramic be...
Fratello
If we polled a large group of die-hard watch fans and asked them to associate a word with Breitling, the answer would be something like “pilot” or “chronograph.” However, if we were to run the same experiment among the general populace, a surprisingly different answer might emerge. It turns out that diving and, in particular, […] Visit Introducing: The Revamped Breitling Superocean Heritage Collection to read the full article.
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