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Chronograph Watches · Page 5

Hands On: The Rolex Daytona Enamel Dial Ref. 126502 is More Than Meets the Eye SJX Watches
May 27, 2026

Hands On: The Rolex Daytona Enamel Dial Ref. 126502 is More Than Meets the Eye

Rolex surprised in a big way with the Cosmograph Daytona Rolesium Enamel Dial ref. 126502. Despite being an “off-catalogue” model, the new Daytona was launched publicly, perhaps to emphasise its unusual nature. To start with, it features a grand feu enamel dial – yes, fired vitreous enamel – inside a bi-metal case of mostly steel, with a touch of platinum, plus a new ceramic (or cermet) bezel. It also has a display back and a steep price tag rivalling that of an all-gold Daytona. While last year’s Land-Dweller and its cal. 7135 was chock-full of patents that Rolex explicitly explained, the Daytona ref. 126502 is more typical Rolex in possessing incremental technical innovation that is left unspecified; it probably incorporates multiple patents that Rolex will not elaborate on. The traditional nature of the dial, the materials and production techniques, and even the display back, hint at future developments at the leading champion of industrial quality perfection. The dial is a four-part affair in white grand feu enamel, while the bezel insert in cermet Initial thoughts Let’s start with the obvious: do I like the new Daytona? Yes. Do I think the dial is actually and technically enamel? Yes. Do I think it’s too expensive? No. While it seems pricey on its face, Rolex pricing is practically always reasonable. I believe the seemingly high price here is justified by something in the watch that Rolex hasn’t explicitly divulged. Price aside, it takes a bit of exami...

Introducing: The 2026 Glashütte Original Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition Hodinkee
May 26, 2026

Introducing: The 2026 Glashütte Original Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition

What We Know The Annual Editions from German brand Glashütte Original are quite self-explanatory from their name. Each year, Glashütte Original adorns one of its vintage-inspired designs from the Sixties collection with a new colorway. There's no hard-and-fast rule about what colors make an appearance—past dials have ranged from subtle to loud, muted to saturated, and smooth to textured. This year's Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition goes for maximum visual impact with a very unconventional purple dial, produced in-house at their dialmaking facility in Glashütte. This 2026 edition opts for the distinctive textured dial that has accompanied a few of the past Sixties models, produced through a stamping process for the bronze dial base. After a galvanic coating process that adds a layer of gold to the base dial, purple lacquer is hand-applied and then fired at high temperatures to set the color.  A unique design detail of the dial is the lack of applied hour indices. Rather, the now purple lacquer dial is hand-engraved to reveal strips of the bronze base, acting as those markers and a warm contrast to the rest of the dial. Once this step is completed, the entire dial gets a protective clear lacquer coating, and the dial text is printed on. Gold-plated hands are paired to complement the tone of the bronze hour indices. And of course, any Sixties Edition from Glashütte Original means some heavily stylized numerals, seen here at twelve and six o'clock. As this year's Annu...

What Are 10 Of The Best Chronographs Under €3,000? Fratello
May 26, 2026

What Are 10 Of The Best Chronographs Under €3,000?

The idea that great chronographs need to cost serious money has become one of the biggest myths in modern watch collecting. Yes, the upper end of the market is packed with six-figure grails and impossible waiting lists, but the truth is that some of the most compelling chronographs on the market sit comfortably below the […] Visit What Are 10 Of The Best Chronographs Under €3,000? to read the full article.

Interview: Zenith’s Product Chief Officer on Reviving the Chronometer Cal. 135 SJX Watches
May 25, 2026

Interview: Zenith’s Product Chief Officer on Reviving the Chronometer Cal. 135

For much of the past quarter-century, Zenith has built its brand on the back of the El Primero — a fast-beating chronograph calibre that debuted in 1969. But last year — for its 160th anniversary — the brand revived the time-only calibre 135 – a legendary competition calibre originally developed in the late 1940s. The reborn movement debuted within a new collection — the GFJ — named after founder Georges Favre-Jacot. To better understand what lies behind the relaunch of the cal. 135, we talked to Romain Marietta, Chief Product Officer at Zenith. David Serra, Technical Director of Movement Development, provided additional production insights. As Mr Marietta explains, the relaunch of the cal. 135 opens a new chapter for Zenith — more exclusive and more artisanal, featuring precious materials, elevated finishing and a classical aesthetic inspired by the designs of the 1950s. In short, closer to the independent watchmakers’ approach and to their audience. And this is only the beginning — the Le Locle-based brand has plans to further develop both the calibre and the collection. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Yannick Nardin (YN): Let’s start at the beginning: what makes cal. 135 so special? Romain Marietta (RM): For context, it was produced from 1949 until 1962. At the time, the pursuit of precision had a real genuine meaning. Watchmakers measured their strength, stature and reputation through the prizes they won. This movement was created f...

Highlights: Patek Philippe Complications at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
May 25, 2026

Highlights: Patek Philippe Complications at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ spring auction season goes east for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. As usual, Phillips has put together a very strong lineup, and, as is often the case at watch auctions, Patek Philippe watches — both vintage and modern — have an outsized share of the catalogue. Lot 940 – Patek Philippe Bailey Banks & Biddle Triple Complication Patek Philippe produced this watch for Philadelphian jeweler Bailey Banks & Biddle around 1895, and it bears only the retailer’s name on the dial, which was not unusual. While the company came to a rather undignified end in the 21st century, it was once a manufacturing jeweller, medalist, and major Patek Philippe retailer. The dial is in rather rough condition by the standards of enamel dials, and while the dial may the most important thing to many wristwatch collectors, here the triple-complication movement is what matters. It features a minute repeater, chronograph, and perpetual calendar — which is presumably instantaneous. Note the lack of a minutes counter for the chronograph. While taken for granted on modern chronographs, most Patek Philippe triple complications did without it. In fact, the most common upgrade path for triple complications was a rattrapante, not minutes counter. The counterweighted pallet fork is also worth mention — this refinement disappeared as the Swiss lever matured and watchmakers realised a lighter pallet fork was better than a balanced one. The movement is fully functional, ...

Introducing: The Serious And Seriously Good-Looking Watch Angels × Alpina Startimer Pilot Chronograph Automatic IFR  Fratello
May 23, 2026

Introducing: The Serious And Seriously Good-Looking Watch Angels × Alpina Startimer Pilot Chronograph Automatic IFR 

There are pilot’s watches and pilot’s-watch-style watches, and the Watch Angels × Alpina Startimer Pilot Chronograph Automatic IFR falls into the first category. This is a serious watch for serious pilots, not an aviation-inspired chronograph. The watch doesn’t have a vintage-cockpit aesthetic; instead, it’s a mechanical tool watch designed specifically to assist IFR-rated pilots during […] Visit Introducing: The Serious And Seriously Good-Looking Watch Angels × Alpina Startimer Pilot Chronograph Automatic IFR  to read the full article.

Bring a Loupe: An Omega Marine Chronometer, A Zenith 2000, A Marvin Ocean Chief, And A Jaeger-LeCoultre Étrier Hodinkee
May 22, 2026

Bring a Loupe: An Omega Marine Chronometer, A Zenith 2000, A Marvin Ocean Chief, And A Jaeger-LeCoultre Étrier

Happy Friday, Ballers. The air's getting warmer, the NBA Conference Finals are already providing extraordinarily compelling viewing (even if your team's already been bounced), and you've only got another month and change to set up your 4th of July plans. Don't sweat it, however. To paraphrase Dieter from Sprockets, now is the time on Hodinkee when we look at what's selling where. Scorekeeping last week's picks: the Movado Cronoplan is still available from The Time Curator, the Patek Beta 21 sold for $26,750, the Hamilton auction closes tomorrow, so you've still got time on it if you're interested, and the Zenith Time Command for 460 GBP. Onto the show. Strays I'm certainly not alone in finding vintage Boucheron watches charming and worth more attention, and if you need further convincing, this Reflet makes an awfully compelling case. If you look closely at this Enicar Mantagraph, you'll notice there's no Swiss marking on the dial, and that, though the watch comes in its original Enicar box, the guarantee card is for a Seiko. This would all seem strange and potentially nefarious were it not for the fact that the Enicar Mantagraph is essentially a rebranded Seiko 7016, a movement well worth your time. Speaking of vintage flyback chronographs, here's a Longines 13ZN monopusher with a dial that seems designed by time and circumstance to test where you fall on the 'one man's tropical is another man's damaged' spectrum, and if that one's not enough, here's a Double-Red Rolex Sea...

Can’t Stop, Won’t Stop: The 2026 Ride to Conquer Cancer Collection Is Here Worn & Wound
May 21, 2026

Can’t Stop, Won’t Stop: The 2026 Ride to Conquer Cancer Collection Is Here

Last year, we launched our first Ride to Conquer Cancer collection alongside a two-day, 200km ride for the Princess Margaret Cancer Centre. The response was incredible. So, we’re doing it again. The 2026 Ride to Conquer Cancer is on, with Matt Smith-Johnson once again leading our “Can’t Stop, Won’t Stop” team into the saddle for two days and 200 kilometers. To back the team this year, we’ve expanded the project to three pieces — all designed to support the cause and look good doing it. The 2026 BOLDR Conquer Limited Edition Chronograph For year two, we wanted to push the design further while keeping what worked the first time around. Mechanically and dimensionally, the watch is unchanged from the 2025 release — same 41mm titanium Venture case, 12.5mm thick, 46mm lug-to-lug, 20mm lugs, same 200m of water resistance, screw-down crown, and flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Inside, the Seiko VK64 mechaquartz again — quartz accuracy with the snappy mechanical feel of a real chrono pusher. What’s new is the finish. The middle of the case is now done in a saturated pink Cerakote, leaving the rest of the watch’s technical foundation untouched. The watch was once again designed by longtime W&W collaborator and team rider Matt Smith-Johnson, who explained his thinking: “The Princess Margaret has been using the slogan ‘Carry The Fire’ for the last couple of years. To me, that’s the passion for creating change in the world. As with our t...

Introducing – The Watch Angels x Alpina Startimer Pilot IFR Chronograph, a Proper Pilot’s Instrument Monochrome
May 21, 2026

Introducing – The Watch Angels x Alpina Startimer Pilot IFR Chronograph, a Proper Pilot’s Instrument

Pilot watches have always occupied a special place in watchmaking and in our hearts. Large crowns, legible dials, chronographs, GMT indications, and slide-rule bezels all emerged from real-life needs. Yet despite many decades of looking up to aviation for clues, very few modern pilot watches can actually assist pilots in flight procedures. Most are stylistic […]

A New Kind of Bond Watch: Introducing the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light Worn & Wound
May 21, 2026

A New Kind of Bond Watch: Introducing the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light

As I write this article in late May 2026, Bond fans want nothing more than news on the next film in the James Bond franchise. We know it’s going to be directed by Denis Villeneuve, but little else has been announced or decided upon. Namely, we don’t know who is going to play 007 as Daniel Craig has apparently given up his license to kill. So on the spectrum of “new Bond stuff” that fans might be interested in, I’m not sure how many waves the release of a 44mm Omega Chronograph with ties to a new Bond videogame is really going to make, but here we are.  The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light is being pitched as a real life version of the watch the James Bond character uses in the upcoming First Light videogame, which is to be released across multiple platforms next week. First Light is a reimagining of the James Bond origin story, and follows a young Bond through the early days of his career with MI6. The watch in the game is, according to Omega, a tool that appears across several missions, and, in the game, is capable of disturbing electronic equipment and emitting a laser from its strap.  Alas, the real thing doesn’t have complications nearly this unique. It’s modeled visually off of the watch that appears in the game, which incorporates subdials that the player accesses to, I guess, fire lasers from the strap, or something of that nature. So naturally a chronograph was the opportune choice for a watch tie in, and this represents the first ti...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Brings Baguettes to the Reverso ‘Or Deco Cocktail’ SJX Watches
May 21, 2026

Jaeger-LeCoultre Brings Baguettes to the Reverso ‘Or Deco Cocktail’

Watch-spotting accounts on Instagram were rewarded during the Met Gala broadcast with a sneak peak at two new Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) Reverso models worn by actors Finn Wolfhard and Tyriq Withers. Unveiled officially today, the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Or Deco Cocktail brings tasteful gemsetting to the Reverso. Initial thoughts Watch spotting has emerged as a major part of social media culture — a fact that has not escaped brands’ attention. Omega was early to the game, teasing the white-dialled Speedmaster on the wrist of Daniel Craig months before launch, and the brand equipped Delroy Lindo with the new Constellation Observatory at the Academy Awards two weeks before its official unveiling. Finn Wolfhard and Tyriq Withers attend the 2026 Met Gala. Photos by Mike Coppola/Getty Images Now its JLC’s turn — today the brand is launching three gem-set Reversos first seen during the Met Gala earlier this month. Available in 18k white or pink gold, the new editions are elegant on the wrist thanks to their relatively compact footprint — just 45.6 mm tall — and supple gold Milanese bracelets. Each watch is distinguished by bands of baguette-cut stones above and below the dial — replacing the typical Art Deco-style horizontal grooves — but only on the front. Flip the watch over, and it looks like any other Reverso with a solid case back. A cynic might view this as a ploy to keep costs down — to some extent that’s true — but alternatively it gives ...

Omega Introduces The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light Fratello
May 21, 2026

Omega Introduces The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light

Omega continues its long-running partnership with James Bond with the new Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light. This time, however, the inspiration does not come from the silver screen. Instead, the watch debuts alongside the upcoming 007 First Light video game from IO Interactive and Amazon MGM Studios. The watch appears in the game […] Visit Omega Introduces The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light to read the full article.

Introducing: The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light Hodinkee
May 21, 2026

Introducing: The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light

What We Know Today marks the introduction of Omega's next Bond Seamaster. Don't worry, you haven't missed an announcement of Daniel Craig's successor—this new Seamaster Chronograph is an homage to… a video game. Yes, that's right. The commercial success of Omega's involvement in the James Bond franchise has been well documented, so it seems that a line of watches rooted in its connection to a history of fantasy and fiction through film would naturally extend to adjacent properties. This is the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light, a remix of the brand's large diving chronograph that appears in the upcoming 007 First Light video game. Interestingly, this is the first Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph in the James Bond universe—chronographs have made appearances on Bond in the movies, but this is the first from the Bond-tied line-up since the partnership kicked off in 1995 with GoldenEye. Given that it's largely identical to the current Seamaster 300M Chronographs out there, it should feel quite familiar, despite this version's inspiration tracking back to 3D-rendered models. Coming in at a very large 44mm diameter, 17.2mm height, and 52.8mm lug-to-lug, the 300 meter diver comes in steel with plenty of contrasting black zirconium-oxide ceramic, thanks to the white enamel-filled bezel insert, the chronograph pushers, and the trademark glossy ceramic wave-engraved dial of the modern Seamaster 300M. One of Omega's interesting quirks that I've always loved...

Announcements: You Can Now Reserve The New Watches From Universal Genève Right Here Hodinkee
May 20, 2026

Announcements: You Can Now Reserve The New Watches From Universal Genève Right Here

If there's one brand that remains near and dear to the heart of Hodinkee, it's Universal Genève. In some ways, my own love of watches may not have flourished the way it did without the incredibly broad range of designs and concepts from Universal in that period. Simple chronographs, calendar chronographs, calendar watches, dress watches, oversized Aviator watches, and even convertible watches were all part of the Universal story. It just did SO many things back then, and when it was announced that the House of Brands (the parent company of Breitling, and now Gallet and Universal) would be re-launching it in full force, I wasn't quite sure what to expect. And I think it's fair to say that many felt that way. But Mr. Kern, who led the project along with a great team of young enthusiasts, knew they needed feedback from the long-standing group of collectors to ensure what they made hit all the right notes. So they assembled a group of advisers to give feedback along the way. The group included Mr. Fred Mandelbaum, Mr. Eric Wind, myself, Mr. Alessandro Fanciulli (Mr. A), Mr. Auro Montanari, and many more die-hard Universal lovers. You can see some photos of one of our meet-ups right here, dating back more than two years ago. The advisory board would give notes, and the internal team would process them accordingly – mostly in design details. And in the end, Universal Genève was fully reborn with an astonishingly wide range of watches just last month in Geneva. It includes tw...

Revisting The Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar Ice Blue Review WatchAdvice
May 19, 2026

Revisting The Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar Ice Blue Review

The first standard production watch with the Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar movement, of course, had to be a Navitimer. We have gone hands-on with it to see how it stacks up! What We Love That ice-blue dial is stunning! Has an amazing wrist presence and an iconic design Easy to use and adjust movement with the perpetual calendar What We Don’t The reverse-style strap can get in the way, depending on your wrist size The 30m water resistance is on the low side The 43mm size will not suit all wrist sizes if you have a smaller wrist Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Originally published as: Reviewing The New Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar In Ice Blue When you think of Breitling, one of the first, if not the first, model that comes to mind is the Navitimer. Not only is it one of Breitling’s most iconic models, but it is also one of the most iconic watches out there, thanks to its history, unique slide-rule bezel and overall design cues that make it stand out. You can easily recognise a Navitimer on the wrist from a distance. In that regard, it’s up there with the Submariner, the Speedmaster, the Luminor, and the Royal Oak, to name but a few. So it stands to reason that it was one of the models to receive the new in-house B19 Perpetual Calendar movement as part of Breitling’s 140th Anniversary Collection. The 18k Rose Gold 140th Anniversary Navitimer B19 Chronograph Perpetual Calendar. This was my p...

First Look – The Bremont Altitude Air Force Blue Capsule Collection, Including a New MB Meteor Time Zones Monochrome
May 19, 2026

First Look – The Bremont Altitude Air Force Blue Capsule Collection, Including a New MB Meteor Time Zones

The Terra Nova and Supermarine collections are an important part of Bremont‘s catalogue, and the brand even looks up to the stars with the recently released Supernova Chronograph. Still, aviation remains central to the British watchmaker’s identity, and the new Air Force Blue capsule collection reinforces this focus with a unified lineup, introducing a distinctive […]

The Next Chapter of the Breitling Chronomat Brings a Whopping 22 New Additions Worn & Wound
May 19, 2026

The Next Chapter of the Breitling Chronomat Brings a Whopping 22 New Additions

As the saying goes, variety is the spice of life, and with Breitling’s release of a staggering 22 new models to its Chronomat lineup, it just might be true. The model is pretty iconic, starting as a pilot’s watch for military forces and later becoming a cultural phenomenon, with one of its claims to fame being its appearance on Jerry’s wrist across Seinfeld. The latest chapter of the collection covers the Chronomat B01 42, Chronomat Automatic B31 40, and Chronomat Automatic 36, giving Breitling’s signature sport watch a full refresh across size, movement, and material options.  The Chronomat B01 42 remains the main chronograph in the revamp, with a few updates aimed at making the watch look (and feel) a little better on the wrist. For starters, the case thickness has been slimmed from 15.1mm to 13.77mm, the crown guard has been reduced, and Breitling has removed the 1/100 scale from the rehaut for a cleaner dial. All of these updates may seem a bit inconsequential, but when brought together, they add up to an overall sleeker profile that’s meant to “enhance its simplicity,” as noted by Breitling’s Head of Design, Pablo Widmer.  The B01 42 is powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, which offers approximately 70 hours of power reserve. In stainless steel, it comes with the choice of a white, blue, or green dial, each with black chronograph counters. The range extends with several additional variations, including a two-tone steel and ...

Comments 4

  1. C. Almeida
    The framing here is frankly a bit off. A chronograph is hardly the most-engineered complication in Swiss watchmaking; that crown belongs to perpetual calendars and minute repeaters. That said, the automatic chronograph remains the most *accessible* complicated movement for volume producers, and that's a worthier claim. The 1969 reference is apt, though the real innovation happened years before.
    1. Ben W. replying to C. Almeida
      Fair correction on the engineering hierarchy. But I'd add: the "accessibility" angle gets muddied fast once you're actually trying to buy one. A Daytona or even a Tudor Chrono sits behind waitlists and AD games that make "accessible" feel like marketing speak. The movement's elegant, sure, but the secondary market lottery around these watches tells a different story about what buyers actually face.
  2. Reece
    thinking about getting my first chrono and this helped a lot. is a vintage automatic worth learning on or should i just grab something new first. also how much should i realistically spend.
    1. WristBuzz Team replying to Reece
      This all depends on your own feelings and what you like to spend. Pretty hard to answer imho.

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